I'd say a noisy chain does *not* convert more energy into sound, the clicking from loading and unloading the rollers is just not damped as much by lube (or dirt). Much like a freehub that is less noisy when you apply thick grease. From my experience, the least noisy chains are those completely gunked-up over-lubed and never-cleaned ones, whereas clean chains often tend to be very "clicky".
Daniel spot on. and the energy taken to create sound is minimal. Think of what a 5W old amplifier can do. By comparison, 5W would be easily lost to heat created by to much grease, poor lubing etc. So basically sound takes less energy than heat!
Great convo. I've been an avid user of "wet lube" since purchasing my steed ~1800m ago. I went in for a tune and found that the chain needed replacing. I've put ~80m on the new chain since then and I'm amazed at how clean it remains. I think the shop uses a dry lube but need to confirm. Previously I'd have to wipe the chain clean after almost every ride.
Ollie has been great as the new GCN Tech guru, don't get me wrong I certainly miss John, but I'm loving a new (scientifically nerdy) perspective. So good on you Ollie!
In experience with new. chains, on new bikes or replacing old chains, the sticky coating is a dirt magnet. My understanding of that coating is that is a preservative to keep the chain in good shape until it is installed. A new chain could be in that box for years before it is used. When I have installed a white wax lube we sell the chain magically got quiet. Customers liked that a lot.
The factory lube is perfect to lubricate the internals, but needs to be wiped down off the exterior so it doesn't pick up dirt. A rag slightly damp with alcohol works fine. Also wipe down after the first few rides. Wipe the chainrings too. The remaining internal lube will last a long time and the chain will be clean and wear well. Once it finally does need lube I've settled on chainsaw bar lube, used sparingly and then follow the wipe down regimen as with the factory lube.
Ollie, I've been running a 52/34 for the last three years on both a Dura Ace shod KTM and an Ultegra shod Cube. Never had any problems with chain dropping or miss-shifting. It's a good option on the hilly terrain, in the beautiful County Waterford, Ireland. Covering around 7000km annually on each bike. Great videos. Michael.
Bike-fitter recommends smaller (by 2.5mm) cranks - just after placebo effect question. Try a double-blind test of the cranks before spending anymore $$$ on bike-fitter (unless it's 5mm or 7.5mm difference you won't notice). Get a friend to reduce your saddle height by 3mm or adjust cleats by 2mm further back or ...
Kept 5 chains. When all were dirty, soaked in gasoline to clean. Hung to dry. When dry, immersed in melted paraffin. Low friction, quite, does not hold dirt, but lasts only a few hundred miles before needing replacement. Hence, 5 chains. Also, less dirt on chain limits wear on chainrings and cogs.
From an engineering standpoint, Ollie you are right that the sound is energy from the rubbing. However liquid lubricants have a viscosity that makes the drivetrain less efficient and so you go slower: it basically old the links back sliding against each other. Especially as component quality and manufacturing tolerances are tight, the viscosity has a greater effect as the boundary layer is not fuller developed. Simple Analogy: sprinting on tarmac vs on sand/mud. Dry lubricant can easily be visualized by looking at Teflon. Nothing sticks, yet it's dry. The magic happens at the molecular level in this case as the polymer does not allow bonds between molecules to form with it.
I use regular tube patches to fix tubeless tires. The trick is to wash out all the sealant and get it clean and dry. Put the patch on from the inside with normal process. Then I put the patched tire back on with an inner tube, which holds the patch tight against the tire while it sets. Finally take out the tube in a day or so and the tire is good as new. Don't use duct tape. The wet sealant will mess it up eventually
My “good” road bike has 170mm cranks, the old soon to be daily commuter 172.5. I was fitted properly onto the new bike. The difference is minute but noticeable. I’ve measured effective stack and reach after the fact, they’re very close between the bike, but with the nice bike I can stay in the drops all day long, the old one not so much.
For the dry lube question, that exact lube they mentioned (c3) has dye in it and comes with the UV light so you can make sure it's lubed by using that alone.
in re the chainring question, I had 52/36 Ultegra on my bike and I was looking for better shifting so I went to 52/39 and now it drops the chain in-between the chain-rings about 50% of the time. I don't understand it at all, and the edge of the chain will actually sit on the 39 and I'll still be able to spin the cranks but it won't catch. The only way I've been able to circumvent it is to back out the low limit screw on the derailleur, stop pedaling, and click through the downshift and all the trim clicks, then pedal. My only theory is that it's a weak spring in the derailleur but it's a new bike. :/ I had the dealer do the chainring swap, I checked and made sure it was installed the correct way facing out and it looks like there's only one orientation (can't install it 90* off for instance). Extremely frustrating to say the least.
The wet lube is just damping the noise because...well it is there and remains there. Especially if there is some additional dirt which sticks to the lube it creates a greasy mush with quite good damping properties 😉
Regarding the installation of shorter cranks, raising the saddle will NOT make you less aerodynamic. Shorter crank + slightly higher saddle + handlebar at the same height as before = lower shoulders and torso closer to level (think LeMond or Cancellara in the drops) with the same or even a more open hip angle (depending upon how much shorter the cranks are). More aero, not less. You’re very welcome. Great video by the way. Cheers!
Shimano recommend de-greasing & lubricating new chains before use. The wax like substance on new chains is a rust inhibitor to protect the chain whilst in transit & storage (which can be months, or even years). It is not intended as a lubricant.
Hey Ollie. Thanks for the response to the question re: 56 tooth chainring for the TT bike. Wondering how the UCI rules work - I thought everything that is professional and used in pro races had to be made available to us amateurs. Love the hair bro' - looks like an Australian sulfur-crested cockatoo.
Hi Ollie. I follow the JC method of appropriating the slow cooker while no one is looking and give the chains a deep waxing. I use an off the LBS shelf dry lube for top up after every ride. As the top-up is - I hope - simply was in a carrier I feel this extends the time between when the chain gets a full degrease and re-wax. Are my assumptions correct?
Everyone should carry some Tufo extreme sealant with them on rides, great stuff even seals inner tube punctures. Also in the original 'Stans' they used fine cornmeal to help clog the holes in punctures, works great as stays suspended in the solution so gets to the hole quickly. Would highly recommend adding a small amount to thinner sealants.
Adding craft glitter to you tubeless sealant is a bad idea because it is made of plastic which will contaminate the soil and local waterways and never decompose.
Dry lubricant is one of the worst modern fads of the cycling industry. From a study on Cyclingtips "Both Kerin and Smith agree that most chain lubricants traditionally described as “dry” are the worst performers for real-world riding. “Dry lubes are mostly a carrier, which evaporates; they don’t last,” Kerin said. “They carry about 10% actual lubrication.” Even worse, Kerin says “dry” lubes can actually make drivetrain wear worse than not using lube at all..." I used to use dry lubricant in industry before opening a bike shop and we ONLY use it in environments where there was A) a danger to electrical components from using a wet lubricant and B) in a closed environment where there is no danger of outside contamination! Dry lubricant is a terrible idea for bike chains (much like hybrid ceramic bearings are not used in any other industry because they aren't engineering they are marketing) Dry lubricant only contain 10% lubricant and this is simply not enough to protect your components. If you use dry lubricant you will need to replace chains more often because you will have metal rubbing against metal more often. Dry lubricant also offers no protection against the weather or rust and moisture can Attack the components in places that have high humidity but Low rainfall. As someone who services bikes on a daily basis I have noticed 2 things time and time again. 1) People who use dry lubricant have the poorest condition components that are more likely to be rusted or stuck or worn out. 2) Don't use Muckoff products (Morgan Blue is much much better) Their dry lubricant is as bad as any dry lubricant and their wet lubricant is a nightmare to clean off! If you leave it on too long it becomes a thick gunk like nothing else on the market. It clogs up everything Ruining your drive train efficiency and once it sets traditional Cleaners won't remove it! I have had to scrape Muckoff lubricant off customers Cassettes and cranks with a screwdriver! Yes it's that bad. Just use a good brand (Morgan blue) or light weight wet oil lubricant and wash your bike every 200-300 km. Thinking that banging dry lubricant on it means you don't have to wash it and you will have a more efficient drive train is just a dream. Oh and dry lubricant is harder to clean because with wet lubricant the dirt sticks to the lubricant and comes off with the degreaser, with dry lubricant the dirt sticks directly to the chain, so harder to clean, especially between the rollers. And yes sound is energy, so if your drive train is noisy it's definitely less efficient. But more to the point it's doing more damage.
Not an expert on drivetrain friction, but an opinion: Maybe with wet lubes energy is absorbed in the form of heat instead of being released to the air as noise. Energy not used propelling the bike is dissipated as friction (heat) or other energy losses, like noise. If the overall effect of a good dry lube is that the overall energy losses between friction and noise are smaller than other lubes, you're overall more efficient.
Hey Ollie, another great show. Your question and answer on crank length and getting efficient power to the pedals got me thinking about another topic. I see several recumbent bikes on my ride, and was wondering if they are more efficient than the traditional "diamond" frame bike. How about a race over a select course that includes hills and flats and see who is faster? I know recumbent bikes go like stink down hill because of aerodynamics, (one of your favorite topics). But I wonder how they would do in a race. Also measuring the watts out on each would be quite interesting as well. Thanks again for a great show and keep using thread locker in your hair!
Wasn't this answered here? th-cam.com/video/F8gGvVrvIXc/w-d-xo.html (Although it seems that two who have never even been close to a recumbent are talking badly about recumbents...). And there was Hank trying one out here : th-cam.com/video/MIsa0L5UNgs/w-d-xo.html
@@casakaiser Good point and I kind of did remember something that had been done with Recumbents in the past, so thanks! I was thinking of a head to head comparison over the same course with power meters set up on both bikes and a more thorough overlook of them. Just a thought.
Yes, full instrumentation and a strong recumbent rider vs strong diamond frame rider would be interesting to see on a course with some variety. I get the impression that recumbents suffer terribly on climbs.
@@billincolumbia I think you are right, but I am not sure. I have been on many cycling events (recreational, not racing) and the people on a recumbent are pretty good on the flats and small rolling hills, and go like wild fire on the down hills, but seem to suffer on the steeper climbs. Like you, I really don't know their level of fitness. Also there are different kinds / styles of recumbent, so is there a difference? All goods stuff. And, can you ride the rollers on one?
Hi Martin, you might need to change the chain, or you could put the cassette from the old bike onto the kickr if you aren't planning to use it on the road too often?
Had a similar issue with tubeless tyres in Australia in summer, where whenever the temperature got close to 40 Celsius the previously sealed punctures would start to weep. Not great on the ride home.
#AskGCNTech When lubing your chain: is the goal to lubricate the rollers then wipe off the excess, or to lubricate the rollers, run it through the cassette & both chainrings, then wipe off the excess? My drivetrain ends up becoming dirty through use, but it always seems to become extra dirty due to the presence of the extra lube on the cogs/chainrings.
I'd like to come back on the crank length question. If you would raise or lower your saddel height by the same distance which your cranks length has been modified, are you not, in the end, getting back the same hip angle?
Awesome advice! I did some digging too, and I mixed in some ground pepper with the sealant, and that seem to do the job. i think i'll give a pass for the idea of using glitter as it is mostly non-biodegradable. I might swap sealant types next time, but for now, it's all good. Thanks Ollie ^_^
I mark the leaky holes, pull my tubeless tire off and clean the inside hole spot w rubbing alcohol. Completely clean. Take a standard innertube vulcanizing patch (park VP-1 or whatever your LbS has) and patch the inside of the tire. Permanent fix.
I've used regular WD-40 for two (2) winters now in my country of Northern Canada on a 105 R7000 drive-train. I get NASTY winters. Super-cold, windy, blowing snow, sleet, dirt, wet snow, you name it. My point? I'm in spring time now and my drive-train is still fine. I recently applied torque in excess of 900 watts, no skipping at all. Isn't that proof that I'm doing something right with my drive-train? All I used was WD-40 for two winters now. Seriously. NOTE: I use wax in the summer months though. I thoroughly clean my chain, then apply the wax. Slightly louder drive-train, but super fast.
If you reduce your crank length, doesn't the opening of your hip angle mean that you can comfortably drop your bars slightly and therefore be more aero?
Sound carries extremely little energy. Just think about how loud a speaker can get when it's only powered by 1 Watt... So something being noisy does not necessarily mean it's losing a lot of energy.
I've been running a 52-34 combination on Ultegra Di2 for more than 12000km without any shifting problems. Even though the Di2 shifts in the same way as with the intended 50-34 or 52-36 combo. The rear is either 11-30 or 11-32 and the bike a Merckx 525.
#AskGCNTech I have a trek 2300 from 2000 and the shifters are pretty beat up but it has a 2x9 drivetrain. I don’t really want to spend the money and upgrade it to 11 speed but it has ultegra shifters and I can’t get those in 9 speed new. Should I get old ultegras or are there new 9 speed shifters I could buy that would be the same level of performance.
Ollie I have 3 bikes, each one is set up with a different crank arm length (172.5, 175, 177.5 mm). I have to admit that I do not ride nearly as much as I used to, it may not be much of a shock to change bikes. I am a mechanic and I have all 3 bikes with the same position and I ride which everyone I feel like. 20 years ago, when I was racing, I rode 177.5mm and could spin well enough. I could hit 130 -150 RPM, but not for very long. But who rides at 130 RPM anyways.? The 172.5 cranks are easier to spin. Andy Pruitt is not wrong. I never considered the 177 mm cranks leverage that advantageous. I always assumed that the difference lay in the range of motion or stroke length of the leg. Getting the power out. But this may not be true. Being a mechanic, I have seen riders at round 153 cm (5ft) to be harmed by cranks that are too long (172-175mm) that come stock on a lot of bikes. We fitted Sram 165 on one person's bike and they felt less pain. Then there are the big riders 168 cm (6.5 ft). Leonard Zinn sells cranks in lengths from 190 mm to 210 mm. I believe, that one arm length does not serve the same leg length equally. ie there is no one best length.
I’ve also noticed that my drive train is noisier using dry lube, particularly after about 30 or 40 miles. I, therefore, mainly use good quality wet lube as it makes me feel like it’s doing a better job.
The lightest way to reduce the bottom area is reduce crankest weight with BB. I have a Look one piece zed3 carbon crankset with bb60 which is so smooth and light
Hey Ollie, quick question about storing a bike. I work at sea, and as such am away from my bike for extended periods. Outside of a good cleaning, is there anything I should do to my bike before storing it for a few months? Also, is it okay to hang it from the wheel for such an extended period? Cheers in advance.
Hi GCNTech, I have an older set of carbon clincher rim brake wheels that the brake track is wearing out on ( not that it was ever a great braking surface, more of a gesture really). Are the braking surface on new carbon rim brake wheels any better? How long do they typically last? I still like my bike and dont really want to buy a new bike with discs cause I dont live in a very hilly area.
#AskGCNTech My front derailleur (Shimano 105) will not shift, and I don't have access to a bike shop. I've tried tightening cable tension in the derailleur, as well as serval other things I've read online, but none work. Please send help...
hi i was interested in your comment on a noisy chain could equal power loss ,my daily ride is a holdsworth professional 80s bike with old fashioned screw on free wheel ,all these modern bikes with a hub based freewheel seem incredibly loud and i have heard some gcn presenters revell in how loud some freewheels are ,thoughts ?
You answered a similar question in this, but mine is slightly different. My bike is an 8 speed specialized diverge. I recently bought an elite direto x, which works with 9,10,11 speed. I bought a 9 speed cassette with same number of teeth on it as my bike yo put on the trainer. Can I use the trainer like that with my bike.
#AskGCNTech As a commuter I bought a entry level road bike with Claris R2000 and adjusted the gears myself, fitted with a 11-28 cassette and 34-50 compact. From the 5th of 8 sprockets the chain starts to grind against the front derailleur... In the big ring the chain rubs up to the 3rd sprocket on the front derailleur. Is there a way to adjust the front derailleur so that I can ride the first 6 or 7 sprockets with the 34 chainring? At the moment I have adjusted the L limit screw so that the front derailleur rubs in the smallest sprocket on the chain... to get out a few millimeters, I never ride the first two sprockets anyway.
@askGCNTech I’m trying to examine which cassette would be best to go with a compact chain ring: 11-30 or 11-32. Aside from the obvious extra 2 dents of the 11-32, looking into the sequence of ratios, the 11-32 seems to offer a better set of significant options with 19 than the alternative 11-30 with only 16. FYI I’ve dropped the obvious extreme cross-chain brackets from my analysis (34-11, 50-30 and 50-32), but also the ratios that are too close together (with a differential below 0,5). Am I looking at this the right way?
#askgcntech hi Ollie. I’ve recently bought a giant propel disc with 105 r7020. Although the gear shifting is perfect, the front chain rubs on the front mech in the big chainring, and there is a noise coming from the back when I am in the smaller 4 sprockets. The limit screw on the front it set as far out as it will go, and the rear looks to be set correctly too. I have tried adjusting the cable tension on both but with no success. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
#TechQuestion I have the Canyon Lux CF SL 7.0 and would like to equip it with a dropbar. Of course I need a corresponding brake lever for this. Preinstalled is the Shimano Deore gear group M8100 with 12 gears. Can I use GRX brake levers for shifting and braking? (Even if I lose a gear in the process?) I'm not sure if the shift cable is pulled properly so that the gears shift safely. Or are there other options? Many thanks in advance and greetings from Wuppertal Tobi
#askgcntech hey i bought a brand new crankset (ultegra r8000) i was wondering if the old issue of the cranks splitting in half was fixed thanks love the show.
Ollie, relevant question here given your recent partnership with Mavic wheels: I am trying to service the ID360 ratchets/main seal on my 2019 Cosmic Pro Carbon SL Disc rear wheel and the free hub just won't slide off, despite my best efforts (and I don't even have typical puny cyclist arms!). Have you any tips to sort this, given that you might be performing a similar maintenance task in the near future?? As far as I am aware from Mavic's own ID360 service video, the free hub should just slide off the axle by hand (without the need to remove the free hub bearing lock ring). I have tried attaching an old cassette lock ring to the free hub and pulling on that with various grips/pliers to no avail. Cheers! #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech I have a question on Di2. Can I check the operability of the rear derailleur Ultegra R8050, or rather its electric motor, without shifters/levers. I have only PC Linkage Device Shimano SM-PCE1 and used rear derailleur R8050. Many thanks
I want to upgrade the crank and square taper bottom bracket of my 8 speed Claris groupset to a two piece crankset. Can I use aftermarket cranks marketed for 10 and 11 speed Shimano setups?
#askgcntech I recently "cooked" my carbon brake track on set of pretty nice wheels and am curious, since I am an avid racer, is it actually legal to change my fork to run a front wheel that is disk brake with a rear wheel that is rim brake. I see this will give me the stopping power I need from the front brake and I can keep my super light EE brake caliper on my rear brake. Thanks in advance!
Wick Werks do an ultra-wide set of chainrings (53-34) which are said to work just as well as standard setups. They are also available for most cranksets. Here is the link: wickwerks.com/products/road-bike-ultra-wide-53-34/
#askgcntech I keep getting a build up of grit at the bottom of the steerer tube/ the fork crown, i can't seem to get the gap any smaller but was wondering if there was a way to try and stop this? or is it just part and parcel of riding in English conditions? thanks
I am trying to modernise a old 1993 Italian steel bike, it currently has campag centaur 53/39 on the front and a 10 speed 11-26 on the back, meaning it is useless on a steep or long climb. I want to modernise it to an 11 speed campag centaur 50/34 on the front and 11-32 on the back to make it more comfortable for long days in the mountains. I am also planning to pair this with some new shamal mille wheels. Is there any reason this won’t work, such as not fitting in the frame, or is there anything else I need to be aware of? Or is it the case that a bike designed as 10 speed must remain a 10 speed forever? #askgcntech
I have a Shimano di2 dura-ace R9100 11-30 cassette should I change it to a 11-32 for hill climb rides, and can I change the cassette to a another brand like Rotor Uno Cassette?
Sam Reid Not sure I’d bother changing cassette just to gain 2 teeth. Last year I switched from a 30 to a 34 when I went on a long weekend cycling in hilly Exmoor and it made a difference, but I’ve now switched back to the 30 since I was missing the closer middle gears.
Ollie, I have just started riding a road bike and it has a Phil wood Venom frame from the early 90s, I don’t know much about this frame builder and I was wondering if you could give me any information on this, thanks Continuing on from this what sort of bar tape should I use as I want to have it in keeping with the early 90s bike.
Hi Fin, we don't know much about Phil Wood's road frames, but, in answer to the bar tape question, there are plenty of leather style bar taps that are in keeping with that era, Cinelli cork bar tape was also around then!
#askgcntech Hey Olli, love the show! I am planning to put a dropbar instead of a normal flat bar on my city-/trekking bike, that has a 3x10-speed Shimano Deore trekking-groupset on it. Can I use those Tiagra STI shifters by Shimano? Or do I have to change something on the cassette when using? Thanks, learning so much!
#AskGCNTech I am looking to buy some deep section wheels 90mm rear 60mm front and I heard that these may not be UCI legal but can not find any Further information. I am planning on uses them for non-windy crits, flat races and TTs (I know there legal for TTs) Any information on UCI rules? If too deep for UCI what is the deepest I can go? I was thinking of buying from a well known Chinese brand such as farsports or Equivalent, or a more common brand second hand such as Zipp or any other brand with the right depth, but not sure whether I’d find my perfect combination at least I have rim brakes so might find an older wheel in the right spec. Thanks for any suggestions
Please DO NOT USE POLISH ON A MATTE FINISH BIKE!!!!!!!! It will ruin the matte finish. Muc Off makes a matte detailer and I use one from Chemical Guys that's made for matte finish automobiles on my matte finish. Again, Polish will ruin the matte finish.
I was gonna say the same thing, only use products specifically designed for a matte finish. The matte effect comes from deeper troughs in the laquer (when looked through a microscope), so anything that fills them up (like weather proofing might do) or files down the peaks (like normal polish does) WILL turn it into a glossy finish.
#GCNTech #ASKGCNTech Ollie or Mannon, any experience or advice on the "Fid-lock" bottles on a road bike? I'm indulging my OCD as I'm sick of looking at empty bottle cages on my areo bike.
Hey guys, tried to find how to ask this on the app but couldn’t work it out. Anyhoo my rear brake cable is sticking, the bike is only 2 years old, can the cable be lubricated or do I need to replace the cable? Great content as always.
Hey Ollie - I am having trouble removing the non drive side crank arm on my bike (in order to remove the whole crankset and check on the bottom bracket and bearing condition). It’s a Praxis Alba on my Specialized Allez Elite. The bolt seems to have spots for an 8mm Hex key as well as a cassette tool - but hard as I try with my 8mm Hex key I cannot get the bolt to budge. Do I need to use the cassette tool? Do I just need to get more leverage somehow? Is it likely seized? WD-40? #AskGCNTech
#askGCNtech Hi Ollie question about disk brake wheels. In the old days of rim brakes a wheel that was slightly out of true would rub against the brake pads and seriously annoy the rider and increase drag. But now a slightly (and I mean a small wobble nothing crazy) out-of-true wheel has no impact on braking, doesn't rub on anything, is not noticeable when riding. So does it impact speed by increasing rolling resistance? or is it just ugly? thanks! keep up the great work :)
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie. Great show! Please give me some advice regarding how to properly match tires with wheel width. I recently purchased a new bike and the new wheels have in internal width of 21mm and external width of 25mm. The ETRTO chart I've found online indicates that I the minimum tire size I should use with these wheels is 35mm. Which seems like it may be out of date considering the growing number of wide road wheels. Would it be safe to use 28mm or 30mm tires with these wheels? Thanks in advance for your advice.
#askgcntech Thanks in advance for your help. I am thinking about getting a new bike and I am wondering if upgrading from a bike with an Ultegra 6800 rim brake groupset to a new bike with a 105 7000 disk brake groupo worth the upgrade? Everything else that comes with the new bike set aside and only focusing on the groupset, I know the 105 is a tier down from Ultegra but it is the newest generation with lots of benefits like the shadow rear mech design, also having disk brakes is a big plus in my mind. Will I be disappointed to go from Ultegra down to 105 or will the fact that it is a newer gen make up for that? Love the show, you guys are great!
I am pretty sure that the material on a new chain is not a wax or dry lube it is a rust preventing substance called cosmoline. Far as I know it has no lubricating properties and should be removed before using the chain.
#askgcntech my big chainring is worn out and i want to replace it, I can't find the exact one (I think it is the shimano Sora 3550) would I be okay if I would replace it with the 105 FC-5703?
Hey Olly, great video's and thanks for answering so many questions I have been plagued with recently. I have gotten back into cycling at new years after many years off the bike, I am approaching my 4th month of continuous commuting and have racked up almost 2000Km so far. I have noticed recently that my handling seems to want to steer me slightly towards either side when I focus too much on my handlebars and upon checking the tires, it feels like there is some give in the rear wheel, what could be causing this and how do I go about sorting it out? I ride a Full Suspension Mountain Bike and made sure the rear frame is tight and solid at the bolts and joints. is the give in the rear tire a cause for concern/ it has me feeling a bit unsure when riding that my bike isnt as stable as it should be.
#AskGcnTech Hi Ollie, great show thank you! I had a groupset question. I am building an F10 and wanted to use SRAM Force AXS, but don't fancy the chain, cranks or cassette. Do you know if there are non SRAM 12 speed alternatives that I can use with the SRAM mechs that will be as reliable as the SRAM originals?
I have done it successfully, albeit with 1x.... I have used praxis carbon zayante cranks with direct drive mount for the chain rings, but given the sram flattop chains have different size Rollers, you will need custom chain ring. I found Wolftooth for now.... But also absoluteblack will be releasing something soon to suit the sram flattop. Apparently rotor may have few options too. Good luck, it's very limited or Out there. Looking back, I would not do it again with sram axs unless you stick to entire sram axs end to end. The limitations of non-sram axs after market products sucks!
I'd say a noisy chain does *not* convert more energy into sound, the clicking from loading and unloading the rollers is just not damped as much by lube (or dirt). Much like a freehub that is less noisy when you apply thick grease. From my experience, the least noisy chains are those completely gunked-up over-lubed and never-cleaned ones, whereas clean chains often tend to be very "clicky".
Daniel spot on. and the energy taken to create sound is minimal. Think of what a 5W old amplifier can do. By comparison, 5W would be easily lost to heat created by to much grease, poor lubing etc. So basically sound takes less energy than heat!
That's a relief, I've spent far too long trying to silence my drivechain, I can finally stop now
Great convo. I've been an avid user of "wet lube" since purchasing my steed ~1800m ago. I went in for a tune and found that the chain needed replacing. I've put ~80m on the new chain since then and I'm amazed at how clean it remains. I think the shop uses a dry lube but need to confirm. Previously I'd have to wipe the chain clean after almost every ride.
Ollie, get out side in the sunshine.
I can't tell where the white fireplace ends and you start ;-)
Ollie has been great as the new GCN Tech guru, don't get me wrong I certainly miss John, but I'm loving a new (scientifically nerdy) perspective. So good on you Ollie!
Randy Poor Except when he’s wrong. 😄
Agreed. Ollie's enthusiasm is infectious
In experience with new. chains, on new bikes or replacing old chains, the sticky coating is a dirt magnet. My understanding of that coating is that is a preservative to keep the chain in good shape until it is installed. A new chain could be in that box for years before it is used. When I have installed a white wax lube we sell the chain magically got quiet. Customers liked that a lot.
The factory lube is perfect to lubricate the internals, but needs to be wiped down off the exterior so it doesn't pick up dirt. A rag slightly damp with alcohol works fine. Also wipe down after the first few rides. Wipe the chainrings too. The remaining internal lube will last a long time and the chain will be clean and wear well. Once it finally does need lube I've settled on chainsaw bar lube, used sparingly and then follow the wipe down regimen as with the factory lube.
Agree 100%. I always clean a new chain with degreaser then apply lube. Whatever new chains are coated in attracts dirt like a magnet.
Ollie, I've been running a 52/34 for the last three years on both a Dura Ace shod KTM and an Ultegra shod Cube. Never had any problems with chain dropping or miss-shifting. It's a good option on the hilly terrain, in the beautiful County Waterford, Ireland. Covering around 7000km annually on each bike. Great videos. Michael.
The question was going from 52/36 to 52/34. I guess the 52/36 you mention was a typo!
@@andersbuschardt2776 Yes, that should read 52/34, I blame cheap ALDI reading glasses! I've corrected the original post. Stay safe.
Ollie, I have been tracking the health state of the weary plant in the back ground, but it's not there any more. Assuming it's been recycled
Ravin Premji Global Composting Network
Bike-fitter recommends smaller (by 2.5mm) cranks - just after placebo effect question. Try a double-blind test of the cranks before spending anymore $$$ on bike-fitter (unless it's 5mm or 7.5mm difference you won't notice). Get a friend to reduce your saddle height by 3mm or adjust cleats by 2mm further back or ...
Kept 5 chains. When all were dirty, soaked in gasoline to clean. Hung to dry. When dry, immersed in melted paraffin. Low friction, quite, does not hold dirt, but lasts only a few hundred miles before needing replacement. Hence, 5 chains. Also, less dirt on chain limits wear on chainrings and cogs.
Definitely use a spacer with a ten speed cassette on your indoor trainer, Have done the very same on my Wahoo and no problems at all.
From an engineering standpoint, Ollie you are right that the sound is energy from the rubbing. However liquid lubricants have a viscosity that makes the drivetrain less efficient and so you go slower: it basically old the links back sliding against each other. Especially as component quality and manufacturing tolerances are tight, the viscosity has a greater effect as the boundary layer is not fuller developed. Simple Analogy: sprinting on tarmac vs on sand/mud.
Dry lubricant can easily be visualized by looking at Teflon. Nothing sticks, yet it's dry. The magic happens at the molecular level in this case as the polymer does not allow bonds between molecules to form with it.
I use regular tube patches to fix tubeless tires. The trick is to wash out all the sealant and get it clean and dry. Put the patch on from the inside with normal process. Then I put the patched tire back on with an inner tube, which holds the patch tight against the tire while it sets. Finally take out the tube in a day or so and the tire is good as new.
Don't use duct tape. The wet sealant will mess it up eventually
I don't know what everyone's is on about... I think Ollie's hair looks pretty cool!
Much respect for not answering the hair product question.
His answer was genuine...
Bob Houghton LOL
Can't give away the marginal hair gainz secrets bruh
5:27 ...I get a hair gel ad...I can't believe it 🤣🤣🤣🤣
5:20 threadlocker hair gel :D does sound like something that should exist
Keeping those titanium hair from welding themselves into an aluminium skull.
Part number HG-2.0?
Park Tool HPG-1 _High Performance Grease_ should keep the coif under control; for more loft perhaps SAC-2 _SuperGrip Assembly Compound_
My “good” road bike has 170mm cranks, the old soon to be daily commuter 172.5. I was fitted properly onto the new bike. The difference is minute but noticeable. I’ve measured effective stack and reach after the fact, they’re very close between the bike, but with the nice bike I can stay in the drops all day long, the old one not so much.
For the dry lube question, that exact lube they mentioned (c3) has dye in it and comes with the UV light so you can make sure it's lubed by using that alone.
in re the chainring question, I had 52/36 Ultegra on my bike and I was looking for better shifting so I went to 52/39 and now it drops the chain in-between the chain-rings about 50% of the time. I don't understand it at all, and the edge of the chain will actually sit on the 39 and I'll still be able to spin the cranks but it won't catch. The only way I've been able to circumvent it is to back out the low limit screw on the derailleur, stop pedaling, and click through the downshift and all the trim clicks, then pedal. My only theory is that it's a weak spring in the derailleur but it's a new bike. :/ I had the dealer do the chainring swap, I checked and made sure it was installed the correct way facing out and it looks like there's only one orientation (can't install it 90* off for instance). Extremely frustrating to say the least.
Stan's Dart works great for plugging punctures. Make sure your sealant is topped off/refreshed regularly.
I run a 42-22 on my touring bike and the 20t jump (using a Shimano road FD rated for a 16t jump) is no problem at all. Shifts really well up and down.
The wet lube is just damping the noise because...well it is there and remains there. Especially if there is some additional dirt which sticks to the lube it creates a greasy mush with quite good damping properties 😉
Regarding the installation of shorter cranks, raising the saddle will NOT make you less aerodynamic. Shorter crank + slightly higher saddle + handlebar at the same height as before = lower shoulders and torso closer to level (think LeMond or Cancellara in the drops) with the same or even a more open hip angle (depending upon how much shorter the cranks are). More aero, not less. You’re very welcome. Great video by the way. Cheers!
Shimano recommend de-greasing & lubricating new chains before use. The wax like substance on new chains is a rust inhibitor to protect the chain whilst in transit & storage (which can be months, or even years). It is not intended as a lubricant.
Hey Ollie. Thanks for the response to the question re: 56 tooth chainring for the TT bike. Wondering how the UCI rules work - I thought everything that is professional and used in pro races had to be made available to us amateurs. Love the hair bro' - looks like an Australian sulfur-crested cockatoo.
Hi Ollie. I follow the JC method of appropriating the slow cooker while no one is looking and give the chains a deep waxing. I use an off the LBS shelf dry lube for top up after every ride. As the top-up is - I hope - simply was in a carrier I feel this extends the time between when the chain gets a full degrease and re-wax. Are my assumptions correct?
IM a certified expert on drive-train lubrication, and I think you should clean your chain regularly, once yearly is probably enough.
Everyone should carry some Tufo extreme sealant with them on rides, great stuff even seals inner tube punctures. Also in the original 'Stans' they used fine cornmeal to help clog the holes in punctures, works great as stays suspended in the solution so gets to the hole quickly. Would highly recommend adding a small amount to thinner sealants.
Adding craft glitter to you tubeless sealant is a bad idea because it is made of plastic which will contaminate the soil and local waterways and never decompose.
What ceramic coating did you use Ollie when you put it on the Pinarello?
Dry lubricant is one of the worst modern fads of the cycling industry.
From a study on Cyclingtips
"Both Kerin and Smith agree that most chain lubricants traditionally described as “dry” are the worst performers for real-world riding.
“Dry lubes are mostly a carrier, which evaporates; they don’t last,” Kerin said. “They carry about 10% actual lubrication.”
Even worse, Kerin says “dry” lubes can actually make drivetrain wear worse than not using lube at all..."
I used to use dry lubricant in industry before opening a bike shop and we ONLY use it in environments where there was A) a danger to electrical components from using a wet lubricant and B) in a closed environment where there is no danger of outside contamination!
Dry lubricant is a terrible idea for bike chains (much like hybrid ceramic bearings are not used in any other industry because they aren't engineering they are marketing)
Dry lubricant only contain 10% lubricant and this is simply not enough to protect your components. If you use dry lubricant you will need to replace chains more often because you will have metal rubbing against metal more often.
Dry lubricant also offers no protection against the weather or rust and moisture can Attack the components in places that have high humidity but Low rainfall.
As someone who services bikes on a daily basis I have noticed 2 things time and time again.
1)
People who use dry lubricant have the poorest condition components that are more likely to be rusted or stuck or worn out.
2)
Don't use Muckoff products (Morgan Blue is much much better)
Their dry lubricant is as bad as any dry lubricant and their wet lubricant is a nightmare to clean off! If you leave it on too long it becomes a thick gunk like nothing else on the market. It clogs up everything Ruining your drive train efficiency and once it sets traditional Cleaners won't remove it!
I have had to scrape Muckoff lubricant off customers Cassettes and cranks with a screwdriver! Yes it's that bad.
Just use a good brand (Morgan blue) or light weight wet oil lubricant and wash your bike every 200-300 km.
Thinking that banging dry lubricant on it means you don't have to wash it and you will have a more efficient drive train is just a dream.
Oh and dry lubricant is harder to clean because with wet lubricant the dirt sticks to the lubricant and comes off with the degreaser, with dry lubricant the dirt sticks directly to the chain, so harder to clean, especially between the rollers.
And yes sound is energy, so if your drive train is noisy it's definitely less efficient. But more to the point it's doing more damage.
Not an expert on drivetrain friction, but an opinion:
Maybe with wet lubes energy is absorbed in the form of heat instead of being released to the air as noise. Energy not used propelling the bike is dissipated as friction (heat) or other energy losses, like noise. If the overall effect of a good dry lube is that the overall energy losses between friction and noise are smaller than other lubes, you're overall more efficient.
Hey Ollie, another great show. Your question and answer on crank length and getting efficient power to the pedals got me thinking about another topic. I see several recumbent bikes on my ride, and was wondering if they are more efficient than the traditional "diamond" frame bike. How about a race over a select course that includes hills and flats and see who is faster? I know recumbent bikes go like stink down hill because of aerodynamics, (one of your favorite topics). But I wonder how they would do in a race. Also measuring the watts out on each would be quite interesting as well. Thanks again for a great show and keep using thread locker in your hair!
Wasn't this answered here? th-cam.com/video/F8gGvVrvIXc/w-d-xo.html (Although it seems that two who have never even been close to a recumbent are talking badly about recumbents...). And there was Hank trying one out here : th-cam.com/video/MIsa0L5UNgs/w-d-xo.html
@@casakaiser Good point and I kind of did remember something that had been done with Recumbents in the past, so thanks! I was thinking of a head to head comparison over the same course with power meters set up on both bikes and a more thorough overlook of them. Just a thought.
Yes, full instrumentation and a strong recumbent rider vs strong diamond frame rider would be interesting to see on a course with some variety. I get the impression that recumbents suffer terribly on climbs.
@@billincolumbia I think you are right, but I am not sure. I have been on many cycling events (recreational, not racing) and the people on a recumbent are pretty good on the flats and small rolling hills, and go like wild fire on the down hills, but seem to suffer on the steeper climbs. Like you, I really don't know their level of fitness. Also there are different kinds / styles of recumbent, so is there a difference? All goods stuff. And, can you ride the rollers on one?
"Save the rim brake", YES! YES! YES!
Nah
@@S.Prestage YES YES YES YES YES!
By all that is good and holy, YES!!!!!!!!!
No. Save rims, go disc brake.
"We've all done stuff Andrew:" actually laughed out loud over here.
Ollie starts to look like Jonny Bravo
Ollie. I’m getting a KICKR for winter training. The bike I’m hoping to use is a fairly old bike. Will I need to change the chain to a new one.
Hi Martin, you might need to change the chain, or you could put the cassette from the old bike onto the kickr if you aren't planning to use it on the road too often?
Had a similar issue with tubeless tyres in Australia in summer, where whenever the temperature got close to 40 Celsius the previously sealed punctures would start to weep. Not great on the ride home.
#AskGCNTech When lubing your chain: is the goal to lubricate the rollers then wipe off the excess, or to lubricate the rollers, run it through the cassette & both chainrings, then wipe off the excess? My drivetrain ends up becoming dirty through use, but it always seems to become extra dirty due to the presence of the extra lube on the cogs/chainrings.
I'd like to come back on the crank length question. If you would raise or lower your saddel height by the same distance which your cranks length has been modified, are you not, in the end, getting back the same hip angle?
Same hip angle at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but at the top, your knee doesn't get as close to your chest.
@@billincolumbia Of course!! Mystery solved! :-) Thank you!!
Gret show Ollie !
I have looked and can’t find the Park tool box off to your left ?
question: how to fix/measure a perfect handle bar???? which size should be perfect ??
Awesome advice! I did some digging too, and I mixed in some ground pepper with the sealant, and that seem to do the job. i think i'll give a pass for the idea of using glitter as it is mostly non-biodegradable. I might swap sealant types next time, but for now, it's all good. Thanks Ollie ^_^
I mark the leaky holes, pull my tubeless tire off and clean the inside hole spot w rubbing alcohol. Completely clean. Take a standard innertube vulcanizing patch (park VP-1 or whatever your LbS has) and patch the inside of the tire. Permanent fix.
*NO Duct Tape! It won’t stick long term.
I've used regular WD-40 for two (2) winters now in my country of Northern Canada on a 105 R7000 drive-train. I get NASTY winters. Super-cold, windy, blowing snow, sleet, dirt, wet snow, you name it. My point? I'm in spring time now and my drive-train is still fine. I recently applied torque in excess of 900 watts, no skipping at all. Isn't that proof that I'm doing something right with my drive-train? All I used was WD-40 for two winters now. Seriously.
NOTE: I use wax in the summer months though. I thoroughly clean my chain, then apply the wax. Slightly louder drive-train, but super fast.
If the tubeless tire get a puncture and the sealant does it job of sealing the puncture, should you add sealant to the tire to replace what was lost?
Like your tech presentation and on the questions asked. This has been very helpful knowledge. Thanks Ollie!
If you reduce your crank length, doesn't the opening of your hip angle mean that you can comfortably drop your bars slightly and therefore be more aero?
Sound carries extremely little energy. Just think about how loud a speaker can get when it's only powered by 1 Watt... So something being noisy does not necessarily mean it's losing a lot of energy.
but noise could indicate that there are also friction losses?
Chainring question: I've changed from 36T to 34T (52T on larger) and had no problems at all. Just do it.
I did the same, flawless and easy, no adjustments to cables or tension.
I've been running a 52-34 combination on Ultegra Di2 for more than 12000km without any shifting problems. Even though the Di2 shifts in the same way as with the intended 50-34 or 52-36 combo. The rear is either 11-30 or 11-32 and the bike a Merckx 525.
Wax, with Teflon or PTFE, is the only way to go. Repels dirt and grim.. Only problem, you have to SUPER clean the chain first.
I use 52/34 chainring combo for the last 16000 km without any problems
#AskGCNTech I have a trek 2300 from 2000 and the shifters are pretty beat up but it has a 2x9 drivetrain. I don’t really want to spend the money and upgrade it to 11 speed but it has ultegra shifters and I can’t get those in 9 speed new. Should I get old ultegras or are there new 9 speed shifters I could buy that would be the same level of performance.
Ollie I have 3 bikes, each one is set up with a different crank arm length (172.5, 175, 177.5 mm). I have to admit that I do not ride nearly as much as I used to, it may not be much of a shock to change bikes. I am a mechanic and I have all 3 bikes with the same position and I ride which everyone I feel like. 20 years ago, when I was racing, I rode 177.5mm and could spin well enough. I could hit 130 -150 RPM, but not for very long. But who rides at 130 RPM anyways.? The 172.5 cranks are easier to spin. Andy Pruitt is not wrong. I never considered the 177 mm cranks leverage that advantageous. I always assumed that the difference lay in the range of motion or stroke length of the leg. Getting the power out. But this may not be true.
Being a mechanic, I have seen riders at round 153 cm (5ft) to be harmed by cranks that are too long (172-175mm) that come stock on a lot of bikes. We fitted Sram 165 on one person's bike and they felt less pain. Then there are the big riders 168 cm (6.5 ft). Leonard Zinn sells cranks in lengths from 190 mm to 210 mm. I believe, that one arm length does not serve the same leg length equally. ie there is no one best length.
I’ve also noticed that my drive train is noisier using dry lube, particularly after about 30 or 40 miles. I, therefore, mainly use good quality wet lube as it makes me feel like it’s doing a better job.
Chris Rafferty web-lube?
Dry Lube I have found on the indoor trainer doesn't last very long the chain starts squeaking after a couple of rides.
Add cracked black pepper to your sealant, it works better than glitter and is more eco friendly
The lightest way to reduce the bottom area is reduce crankest weight with BB. I have a Look one piece zed3 carbon crankset with bb60 which is so smooth and light
Good thinking!
Hey Ollie, quick question about storing a bike. I work at sea, and as such am away from my bike for extended periods. Outside of a good cleaning, is there anything I should do to my bike before storing it for a few months? Also, is it okay to hang it from the wheel for such an extended period? Cheers in advance.
I Think Jon once made a video were he told us not to use polish on a matte bike, cause it made it shine.
Hi GCNTech, I have an older set of carbon clincher rim brake wheels that the brake track is wearing out on ( not that it was ever a great braking surface, more of a gesture really). Are the braking surface on new carbon rim brake wheels any better? How long do they typically last? I still like my bike and dont really want to buy a new bike with discs cause I dont live in a very hilly area.
#AskGCNTech My front derailleur (Shimano 105) will not shift, and I don't have access to a bike shop. I've tried tightening cable tension in the derailleur, as well as serval other things I've read online, but none work. Please send help...
hi i was interested in your comment on a noisy chain could equal power loss ,my daily ride is a holdsworth professional 80s bike with old fashioned screw on free wheel ,all these modern bikes with a hub based freewheel seem incredibly loud and i have heard some gcn presenters revell in how loud some freewheels are ,thoughts ?
You answered a similar question in this, but mine is slightly different. My bike is an 8 speed specialized diverge. I recently bought an elite direto x, which works with 9,10,11 speed. I bought a 9 speed cassette with same number of teeth on it as my bike yo put on the trainer. Can I use the trainer like that with my bike.
#AskGCNTech As a commuter I bought a entry level road bike with Claris R2000 and adjusted the gears myself, fitted with a 11-28 cassette and 34-50 compact.
From the 5th of 8 sprockets the chain starts to grind against the front derailleur... In the big ring the chain rubs up to the 3rd sprocket on the front derailleur. Is there a way to adjust the front derailleur so that I can ride the first 6 or 7 sprockets with the 34 chainring?
At the moment I have adjusted the L limit screw so that the front derailleur rubs in the smallest sprocket on the chain... to get out a few millimeters, I never ride the first two sprockets anyway.
@askGCNTech I’m trying to examine which cassette would be best to go with a compact chain ring: 11-30 or 11-32. Aside from the obvious extra 2 dents of the 11-32, looking into the sequence of ratios, the 11-32 seems to offer a better set of significant options with 19 than the alternative 11-30 with only 16. FYI I’ve dropped the obvious extreme cross-chain brackets from my analysis (34-11, 50-30 and 50-32), but also the ratios that are too close together (with a differential below 0,5). Am I looking at this the right way?
#askgcntech hi Ollie. I’ve recently bought a giant propel disc with 105 r7020. Although the gear shifting is perfect, the front chain rubs on the front mech in the big chainring, and there is a noise coming from the back when I am in the smaller 4 sprockets. The limit screw on the front it set as far out as it will go, and the rear looks to be set correctly too. I have tried adjusting the cable tension on both but with no success. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
Ollies videos are always great. But they are even greater when you're drunk. The jokes are so much funnier!
i am drunk now and they are still not funny. god i miss matt on gcn 😭
Love you, Ollie. Hope you're well.
RE: Haircut. For a giggle/laff, I'd love to see Ollie come back with a very mid 90's undercut :P
#TechQuestion
I have the Canyon Lux CF SL 7.0 and would like to equip it with a dropbar. Of course I need a corresponding brake lever for this. Preinstalled is the Shimano Deore gear group M8100 with 12 gears. Can I use GRX brake levers for shifting and braking? (Even if I lose a gear in the process?) I'm not sure if the shift cable is pulled properly so that the gears shift safely. Or are there other options?
Many thanks in advance and greetings from Wuppertal
Tobi
#askgcntech hey i bought a brand new crankset (ultegra r8000) i was wondering if the old issue of the cranks splitting in half was fixed thanks love the show.
Ollie, relevant question here given your recent partnership with Mavic wheels: I am trying to service the ID360 ratchets/main seal on my 2019 Cosmic Pro Carbon SL Disc rear wheel and the free hub just won't slide off, despite my best efforts (and I don't even have typical puny cyclist arms!). Have you any tips to sort this, given that you might be performing a similar maintenance task in the near future?? As far as I am aware from Mavic's own ID360 service video, the free hub should just slide off the axle by hand (without the need to remove the free hub bearing lock ring). I have tried attaching an old cassette lock ring to the free hub and pulling on that with various grips/pliers to no avail. Cheers! #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech
I have a question on Di2. Can I check the operability of the rear derailleur Ultegra R8050, or rather its electric motor, without shifters/levers. I have only PC Linkage Device Shimano SM-PCE1 and used rear derailleur R8050.
Many thanks
I want to upgrade the crank and square taper bottom bracket of my 8 speed Claris groupset to a two piece crankset. Can I use aftermarket cranks marketed for 10 and 11 speed Shimano setups?
My Specialized Roubaix always looks great after a spray with Pledge furniture polish, adds water/dirt repellent properties as well.
+1 on the furniture aerosol polish. Works a treat.
9:00 use Di2 and chain catcher...works better
#askgcntech I recently "cooked" my carbon brake track on set of pretty nice wheels and am curious, since I am an avid racer, is it actually legal to change my fork to run a front wheel that is disk brake with a rear wheel that is rim brake. I see this will give me the stopping power I need from the front brake and I can keep my super light EE brake caliper on my rear brake. Thanks in advance!
Wick Werks do an ultra-wide set of chainrings (53-34) which are said to work just as well as standard setups. They are also available for most cranksets. Here is the link: wickwerks.com/products/road-bike-ultra-wide-53-34/
Don't cut the hair!! Grow the hair out during lockdown and then go back to the wind tunnel and see how many watts you've lost in CDA
#askgcntech I keep getting a build up of grit at the bottom of the steerer tube/ the fork crown, i can't seem to get the gap any smaller but was wondering if there was a way to try and stop this? or is it just part and parcel of riding in English conditions? thanks
I am trying to modernise a old 1993 Italian steel bike, it currently has campag centaur 53/39 on the front and a 10 speed 11-26 on the back, meaning it is useless on a steep or long climb. I want to modernise it to an 11 speed campag centaur 50/34 on the front and 11-32 on the back to make it more comfortable for long days in the mountains. I am also planning to pair this with some new shamal mille wheels. Is there any reason this won’t work, such as not fitting in the frame, or is there anything else I need to be aware of? Or is it the case that a bike designed as 10 speed must remain a 10 speed forever? #askgcntech
I have a Shimano di2 dura-ace R9100 11-30 cassette should I change it to a 11-32 for hill climb rides, and can I change the cassette to a another brand like Rotor Uno Cassette?
Sam Reid Not sure I’d bother changing cassette just to gain 2 teeth. Last year I switched from a 30 to a 34 when I went on a long weekend cycling in hilly Exmoor and it made a difference, but I’ve now switched back to the 30 since I was missing the closer middle gears.
Ollie, I have just started riding a road bike and it has a Phil wood Venom frame from the early 90s, I don’t know much about this frame builder and I was wondering if you could give me any information on this, thanks
Continuing on from this what sort of bar tape should I use as I want to have it in keeping with the early 90s bike.
Hi Fin, we don't know much about Phil Wood's road frames, but, in answer to the bar tape question, there are plenty of leather style bar taps that are in keeping with that era, Cinelli cork bar tape was also around then!
Thanks
GCN Tech sorry I meant Phil Sherwood
#askgcntech Hey Olli, love the show! I am planning to put a dropbar instead of a normal flat bar on my city-/trekking bike, that has a 3x10-speed Shimano Deore trekking-groupset on it. Can I use those Tiagra STI shifters by Shimano? Or do I have to change something on the cassette when using? Thanks, learning so much!
Hi guys, can you replace an existing Trek BB90 bottom bracket with their new T47 threaded offering?
I just bought a Elite Suito and it came with the 10 speed spacers, just go out and buy the 10 speed cassette for it
#AskGCNTech I am looking to buy some deep section wheels 90mm rear 60mm front and I heard that these may not be UCI legal but can not find any Further information. I am planning on uses them for non-windy crits, flat races and TTs (I know there legal for TTs) Any information on UCI rules? If too deep for UCI what is the deepest I can go? I was thinking of buying from a well known Chinese brand such as farsports or Equivalent, or a more common brand second hand such as Zipp or any other brand with the right depth, but not sure whether I’d find my perfect combination at least I have rim brakes so might find an older wheel in the right spec. Thanks for any suggestions
Hey Angus,
Do you know what brand wheels you were planning on getting? I can check if they are UCI legal. Thanks
Please DO NOT USE POLISH ON A MATTE FINISH BIKE!!!!!!!! It will ruin the matte finish. Muc Off makes a matte detailer and I use one from Chemical Guys that's made for matte finish automobiles on my matte finish. Again, Polish will ruin the matte finish.
I was gonna say the same thing, only use products specifically designed for a matte finish. The matte effect comes from deeper troughs in the laquer (when looked through a microscope), so anything that fills them up (like weather proofing might do) or files down the peaks (like normal polish does) WILL turn it into a glossy finish.
I haven't seen it done on a bike yet, but I've seen plenty of matte cars ruined by polish.
#GCNTech #ASKGCNTech Ollie or Mannon, any experience or advice on the "Fid-lock" bottles on a road bike? I'm indulging my OCD as I'm sick of looking at empty bottle cages on my areo bike.
Hey guys, tried to find how to ask this on the app but couldn’t work it out. Anyhoo my rear brake cable is sticking, the bike is only 2 years old, can the cable be lubricated or do I need to replace the cable? Great content as always.
After 2 years change the damn cable. and the outer too.
I lubricate motorcycle cables and keep them many years. Be sure to check for free motion, no kinks.
Superglue is really good at sticking tyre rubber. Anyone tried using it to close up tubeless puncture holes?
Hey Ollie - I am having trouble removing the non drive side crank arm on my bike (in order to remove the whole crankset and check on the bottom bracket and bearing condition). It’s a Praxis Alba on my Specialized Allez Elite. The bolt seems to have spots for an 8mm Hex key as well as a cassette tool - but hard as I try with my 8mm Hex key I cannot get the bolt to budge. Do I need to use the cassette tool? Do I just need to get more leverage somehow? Is it likely seized? WD-40? #AskGCNTech
#askGCNtech Hi Ollie question about disk brake wheels. In the old days of rim brakes a wheel that was slightly out of true would rub against the brake pads and seriously annoy the rider and increase drag. But now a slightly (and I mean a small wobble nothing crazy) out-of-true wheel has no impact on braking, doesn't rub on anything, is not noticeable when riding. So does it impact speed by increasing rolling resistance? or is it just ugly? thanks! keep up the great work :)
I tried the thrdlock on my hear and it does not look as good as yours. Also very hard to wash by the end of the day
Park Tool Thread Locker--sells out!
#AskGCNTech Hi Ollie. Great show! Please give me some advice regarding how to properly match tires with wheel width. I recently purchased a new bike and the new wheels have in internal width of 21mm and external width of 25mm. The ETRTO chart I've found online indicates that I the minimum tire size I should use with these wheels is 35mm. Which seems like it may be out of date considering the growing number of wide road wheels. Would it be safe to use 28mm or 30mm tires with these wheels? Thanks in advance for your advice.
#askgcntech Thanks in advance for your help. I am thinking about getting a new bike and I am wondering if upgrading from a bike with an Ultegra 6800 rim brake groupset to a new bike with a 105 7000 disk brake groupo worth the upgrade? Everything else that comes with the new bike set aside and only focusing on the groupset, I know the 105 is a tier down from Ultegra but it is the newest generation with lots of benefits like the shadow rear mech design, also having disk brakes is a big plus in my mind. Will I be disappointed to go from Ultegra down to 105 or will the fact that it is a newer gen make up for that? Love the show, you guys are great!
I am pretty sure that the material on a new chain is not a wax or dry lube it is a rust preventing substance called cosmoline. Far as I know it has no lubricating properties and should be removed before using the chain.
#askgcntech my big chainring is worn out and i want to replace it, I can't find the exact one (I think it is the shimano Sora 3550) would I be okay if I would replace it with the 105 FC-5703?
Ok if the large chainrings are only sold to the pro riders, then how are they legal?
Hey Olly, great video's and thanks for answering so many questions I have been plagued with recently. I have gotten back into cycling at new years after many years off the bike, I am approaching my 4th month of continuous commuting and have racked up almost 2000Km so far.
I have noticed recently that my handling seems to want to steer me slightly towards either side when I focus too much on my handlebars and upon checking the tires, it feels like there is some give in the rear wheel, what could be causing this and how do I go about sorting it out? I ride a Full Suspension Mountain Bike and made sure the rear frame is tight and solid at the bolts and joints. is the give in the rear tire a cause for concern/ it has me feeling a bit unsure when riding that my bike isnt as stable as it should be.
#AskGcnTech
Hi Ollie, great show thank you! I had a groupset question. I am building an F10 and wanted to use SRAM Force AXS, but don't fancy the chain, cranks or cassette. Do you know if there are non SRAM 12 speed alternatives that I can use with the SRAM mechs that will be as reliable as the SRAM originals?
I have done it successfully, albeit with 1x.... I have used praxis carbon zayante cranks with direct drive mount for the chain rings, but given the sram flattop chains have different size Rollers, you will need custom chain ring. I found Wolftooth for now.... But also absoluteblack will be releasing something soon to suit the sram flattop. Apparently rotor may have few options too. Good luck, it's very limited or
Out there. Looking back, I would not do it again with sram axs unless you stick to entire sram axs end to end. The limitations of non-sram axs after market products sucks!
Thanks Ravin, that is great feedback