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I really like this video. It's the most detailed and informative video I've seen on this topic. I almost feel like I can do it myself. Just subscribed and am looking forward the next one. Thanks.
Hi your video is nice and I am thinking of installing insulation in my basement ceiling. Can hear hardwood sound in the basement when walking in upper floor. Would you recommend installing insulation in a basement ceiling and dry wall it for noise reduction? Is it really worth installing it for noise reduction? Is there anything else I need to do beside putting roxul insulation and dry wall? Thanks for your time.
I do it on all my projects, Safe'N'Sound insulation, resilient channel & 5/8" drywall. You can add two layers of 5/8" drywall to help improve the sound deadening.
Thanks for your video I like it, what do you think for people who bought an old house and basement is rent already what is the best way for them to reduce the noise
Thanks. Unfortunately, there is not much that can be done in a finished home. Separating the HVAC system and soundproofing means need to be done during construction or renovations.
This isn't directly related to this video but I have a general questions about basement ceilings. Do you ever use drop/suspended ceilings in basments, or always drywall? If you do, is there a video? For the drywall ceilings, do you just build in access panels to valves, gas lines, etc? I would love drywall in the basement I plan on finishing, but my house was built in 1972. I have had to replace some pipes/valves here and there over the past few years and I fear that because of age, this might continue in the future. Thoughts? Thanks so much.
I have never installed a drop ceiling. I prefer a drywall finish and think it looks much better. Here is a link to my video where I show how to install drywall on a ceiling: th-cam.com/video/xnarltDAUZQ/w-d-xo.html You can use access panels for areas such as water valve shut off's etc. You can buy plastic spring loaded access panels or metal ones with a small access door.
Hi @Simpson Properties, Great video. A couple of questions: 1) do you install resilient channel on the walls? 2) Do you install resilient channel and roxul for boxes (soffits) around ductwork? 3) I understand I leave 1/4" between ceiling drywall and side studs, do I also leave 1/4" space between the side drywall, and the ceiling drywall that you hung off of the resilient channel? What do I fill the 1/4" space with, acoustical caulking? Thanks.
+jogaserbia Thanks for the positive feed back and questions. 1) Resilient (res) channel is most commonly used on the ceiling only. It provides a flush surface (furring) to mount drywall to and provides vibration noise reduction. In my res channel video the main reason why I installed it was to eliminate vibrations (people walking, music, etc.) to travel from the main floor apartment to the basement apartment and vice versa. The only time you would usually install res channel on the walls is if you are building a home theater room or share a wall with a neighbor (condo or town home). 2) I don't use res channel on the underside of duct work in order to maximize the ceiling height. However I do use Roxul Safe'N'Sound between the framing around duct work to help increase soundproofing. 3) I don't leave a space between the drywall on the ceiling and the wall. I leave a 1/4" gap between the the res channel and walls ONLY. The drywall should be tight to the wall with no gaps to fill.
Can u install a resillent channel ceiling right over your current ceiling just by removing my current sheet rock and I can throw some roxul between first?
Great video! If I were to only use one layer instead of two, you would install it at the top of the cavity with the 1 inch air gap and leave the rest empty correct? Thanks.
Thanks! I have talked with the tech support at Rockwool regarding this. They mentioned the placement of a single batt in the ceiling cavity doesn’t really matter. It’s often easier to leave it towards the bottom of the ceiling cavity flush with the ceiling joists. Usually, there are HVAC ducts, plumbing & electrical installed in the center of the cavity. It’s a pain trying to get the insulation passed all that stuff.
the funny thing is with this thing, is that i did it in my own basement for a legal duplex, and all the sound still comes through the big holes in the floors, known as vents. regardless of any soundproofing done and required by code, unless you have dual hvac units, this helps, but you will always get noise
todd leggat I agree. I have a buddy who’s doing a duplex conversion now and is installing mini splits to heat/cool the basement unit. This way the duct work will only service the upper unit. He is also installing a product on the the main unit floor that will simulate having 2” of concrete. It’s suppose to really help reduce vibration from unit to unit. It will be interesting to see how it all works.
I am looking to renovate my previously "finished" basement but I can hear every little footstep, every clang or bang on the floor or counter from anywhere in basement, but voices and music not so much :). floor creaks as well (even after screwing floor screws). the basement has drywall on the ceiling, and no insulation as far I can tell, so should I take it out and put Roxul there? or look for other solutions, ( green glue, MLV, Resilient Channel ..) , looking to rent it. but will never be relaxed the way it is at the moment.
You will most likely have to remove the existing drywall, install Rockwool Saf’N’Sound, resilient channel and one or two layers of drywall. Keep in mind if both units share common HVAC you will still have noise transfer through the duct work.
At the end of the video for the stairs, you can see daylight so it wouldn't be fire separated and would likely admit noise through, too. Some fire-rated caulking would do the trick.
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So I'm building a home theater in my basement and I'm wondering what if any additional steps would you take to make it so that people can't hear the movie and bass in the room about the basement theater?
There are tons of additional steps that can be taken. A quick google search will provide lots of info. Some quick tips are two layers of drywall, Sound FX drywall (Certainteed), green glue, Sonopan etc.
Thank you! If you're only installing one layer it should be installed in the lower portion of the ceiling cavity flush with the bottom of your ceiling joist. This will also make your life easier during the installation process by not having to squeeze the Roxul behind HVAC, plumbing & electrical since most of it is ran in the center of the ceiling cavity.
Do u have to use drywall? I don’t want to cover my plumbing as it is old & may need repairs. I’m just trying to put some sound barrier between me and my roommate below me in my basement
You could install a drop ceiling with ceiling tiles instead. It won’t provide as much sound deadening properties as drywall. It will give you access to any mechanicals in your ceiling cavity.
I have a total of 500 sq ft to insulate an entire basement, which is expensive but worth it. However, you mention putting in TWO layers of Roxul Safe N Sound which obviously doubles the price. Instead of putting two layers of Roxul Safe N Sound, could I do one layer of Safe N Sound and one layer of regular R38 insulation?
You're probably better of using Roxul Safe'N'Sound since that product is designed for soundproofing. I would recommend giving Roxul a call. Their technical support team will be able to give you the best advice.
I'm not a sound proofing expert, but I believe you want an air gap so sound doesn't have a way to directly pass through. Using R38 insulation plus a layer of Roxul your insulation thickness will be 15 inches (12 for R38 and 3 for Roxul). so with 2x10 or 2x12 floor joists you'd end up compressing the insulation to make it fit.
Thanks for the great video :) just a question for you about insulating near the pot lights you show in about 3:10-3:15 in the videos. Are those insulation contact fixtures? If not, are you able to insulate right against the fixtures because the R value is so low in the safe and sound and the boxes won't over heat? Or lastly, is this simple an error? Thank you!
Abhay Fernandez those are IC rated pot lights which is done correctly according to our local electrical code. I highly recommend you buy IC rated pot lights no matter what type of insulation is used in the cavity.
Thanks for the video! Do you just let friction keep the upper layer of insulation there? Wouldn't it eventually slip down? Also if I want to install radiant heating under the floor above could I still put the insulation flush to the floor?
DJ Malleck thank you. The batts are a little larger than the ceiling cavity and will expand in place. I talked to a Roxul rep about the batts falling down over time. Even if that happens it won't have any major impact on the STC rating. If you're using radiant heat above there is no issues with using Roxul below. ROXUL is a fire-resistant insulation, it resists temperatures of up to 2150◦F (1177◦C) without burning or melting.
A proper installation would include mechanical support. You can get thin rigid wire sized just for that application. I don't know if it has a name, but the wire sticks are about 15" long, perfect for tensioning between 16 OC joists.
None at all. There should not be any condensation inside your floor or ceiling joists. Exterior walls and attic spaces could have those issues if improper vapor barrier installs are done (ie. Double vapor barrier).
It looks pretty simple to do and not too expensive. I don't understand why my landlord didn't do it, I mean good tenants will more likely to stay longer. I am moving out of a basement after 2 months... disaster
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if go with one layer, is there any code requirement that it has to be up higher or lower on top of the drywall ? or just a preference thing, and not really right or wrong way ?
If you’re installing this for the purpose of sound dampening only I would leave an air gap, then install the batt towards the bottom of the cavity. If have heated floors above (ie.radiant heat) I would install the batts towards the top of the cavity so the heated floors drive the heat upwards.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd hmm.. why on the bottom ? it's not code right, just your preference ? sometimes there's wire or pipes that forces you to put it higher.. and either way you put it, there's still an air pocket, so why is it better for the air pocket to be on the upper side ? sorry, not attacking your way, but I like to analyze and I like answers with details explaining one's reasons for doing things this way or that way ?
I wish you would show the tricky areas and how to deal with them. There is a lot of HVAC and pipes in my basement that gets in the way of putting it flush with the ceiling. I ended up folding it into a V shape to get around some pipes.. is that bad?
Darren Jones nothing should be hanging below your ceiling joists. I added additional support where ever HVAC ducts sagged below a ceiling joist. Thanks for the suggestion. Next time I shoot a video on this topic I will go more in depth with the prep work.
All these sound proofing videos ignore one very important issue. You can pack the cavity till the cows come home but if you don't address the ductwork, both supply and return, you may be disappointed with the result. I would draw the analogy with my clients to the old sea captain up on the bridge calling down to the engine room by simply speaking through a connecting pipe. Same thing happens in your home or business. Adding fibreglass duct liner to the inside of your ductwork is common practice in sound studios and office buildings to prevent sound transmission and cross talk. Hope this is helpful.
George Labottum I agree with your analogy. If there is common duct work between units there will still be lots of sound transmitted through the duct work. IMO it’s best to have separate HVAC and utilities for each unit. That resolves that issue. Are you recommending to install fiberglass insulation inside the duct work?
@@simpsonpropertiesltd If you are talking unit heaters /AC units, it will make a huge difference to install ductliner from the unit to the diffuser. In my custom home I had ductliner installed for the first 8 ft of the supply duct running from the furnace. Cut the noise down tremendously. Well worth the expense.
@@416pp No issue if you install mat facing faced duct liner. John's Manville Lineacoustic duct liner. Black in colour with a black mat facing. Go see a local sheet metal shop. Good chance they have it in stock. Other manufacturers: Owens Corning, Knauf fiberglass.
Here in the U.K we don't have safe sound, we have Rockwool: now wich would you recommend: 75mmm x60kg3 or 100mmx 45kg3? Would you rather have less thick but more dense or thicker but less dense? Thank you
Everything good except the last part when doing the stairs. You can clearly see openings in the stairs in multiple areas, sound travels through air like water. Any gap will be a path. Very important before you insulate to use foam spray (can) or aqoustic Silicone and fill all those gaps and then insulate, cheers.
Hey Dwight, Any tips on products to reduce sound under stairs? Aside from packing Roxul and drywall.. is there a spray product for this that you may suggest? Spraying would be easier but any advise is welcome! Thanks!
Hey Andrew, sorry I'm not aware of any spray products that you can use for the void under the stairs. The only other recommendation I would make is to use 5/8" drywall or two sheets of 1/2" drywall with green glue between the layers beneath your stairs. I hope this helps and thanks for checking out my video!
How do you install the safe and sound product around things that take up a lot of space between the joists such as hvac ducts or water supply/drain lines?
Most of your electrical and water lines should be installed in the center of the cavity. You can squeeze the insulation on one side and push it above the obstructions. You can do the same thing for duct work, unless the entire cavity is blocked. In that case you would have to remove the duct work, install the insulation, then re-install your duct work.
Res channel is not designed to be installed on a floor support and live load. You would have to look at different options such as Soprema Insonofloor and Acoustiboard.
how do achieve the air space from the first layer to the second? i put the first layer in, and then do I just put the second layer right up against the first? Thanks.
Depending on the depth of your ceiling cavity you may or may not have room for an air gap. Don’t overthink this step too much. I usually push the first batt to the top of the cavity and install the second batt flush with the ceiling joist. Leaving an air gap between the two batts of insulation.
Which rockwool would you recommend? Thickness x density? I'm soundproofing my garage using 4x2 studs. For rehearsal with my band! Im a drummer! Thank you brow!
I would recommend using Roxul Safe’N’Sound insulation. It comes in either 16” or 24” widths. Depending on how wide your cavities are will determine what size to buy.
Dwight-have you ever used Mass Loaded Vinyl sheeting on top of the roxul? So my idea is to put the Roxul in the cavity and then layer MLV across, then add the drywall. I want to add mass and density to help the Roxul by adding MLV. Any thoughts?
GeoFagus 123 I have not heard of using MLV then installing drywall. So I can't comment on how it will perform. The only recommendation I can give you are other common materials used to help sound proof. To increase the mass and density usually thicker drywall is used 5/8". Installing 2 layers of 1/2" or 5/8" will really help increase mass & density. You can also add Green Glue between the layers of drywall. Check out my "How to Install Resilent Channel" video if you haven't. That will help reduce vibration noise. When you install resilient channel you can go over kill and install clips with a rubber backing first. Then your res channel is held in place by the clips. I hope this helps.
Since fiberglass or mineral wool or safe and sound doesn’t have transmission loss or stc data why will it block sound ? Sound blocking requires mass , second layer of drywall, or decoupling with spring hanger. Where is data supporting these STC claims?
I said at the beginning of the video these are “Sound deadening” techniques. Check out Rockwools web site for STC ratings based on different construction methods.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd not sure what you mean by Sound Deadening. The goal of treating the ceiling is to Block the sound from room above and room below. Sound blocking is about transmission loss which is related to the density of a material. Insulation material has density of 1 to maybe 6 lb/cuft. Gypsum has density of about 100+. The TL of insulation is so low it’s not even measured or stated. As you correctly pointed the Rockwool website only list it as part of a structure. The only lab measure of insulation is absorption coefficient. It’s a porous material. . Since the structure is a spring- mass- dampening system with using air and gypsum, just a little fluffy pink fiberglass might be useful for dampening BUT using expensive safe and sound is like storing money in your ceiling. In addition if the gypsum is in direct contact with joists and not floated on springs the sound energy goes through the joist and completely bypasses the insulation. Please reconsider advising DIYers about how to soundproof a ceiling. Unfortunately they do watch TH-cam
@@mikebiffignani5758 thanks for the tips Mikey! You sound like you have lots of knowledge around this topic. TH-cam “DIYers” could use your wisdom and intellect. I recommend you start putting out content for the world to enjoy.
Just found this. I have a question. I already have a existing drop ceiling and would like to keep it but install safe and sound inbetween the joists? Is that good enough?
If you are opening up a basement floor for better clearance, would you just apply the one layer flush with the overlying floorboard? Would this compromise the fire retardation benefit?
@@simpsonpropertiesltd Sure. imagine you have a basement ceiling with sheetrock attached to ceiling joists. I remove the sheetrock. Would I apply the soundproofing material directly to the upstairs floorboards?
I follow you now. I have talked to reps from Rockwool and they said it’s irrelevant if the insulation is in the upper part of the cavity or flush with ceiling joist. It will most likely be easier to install it towards the lower portion of the cavity flush with the ceiling joists.
Sorry for the late reply. I am only seeing this comment now. HVAC duct work that is common between units is usually the toughest area to fix. Unless, you have separate HVAC systems for each unit there is not much that can be done to resolve this issue. Other than closing particular vents.
I am wondering how you can manage to stand installing Roxul Safe N Sound with just a T-shirt on like you do at the end of the video? I have tried just installing 2-3 pieces while wearing a long sleeve shirt, gloves, safety glasses, and dust mask and I go friggin berserk. Its some of the itchiest stuff I have ever come across. Its like being on fire... How do you like it?
Matt N. I agree Roxul can make you very itchy but no where near as bad as fiberglass insulation. I am usually suited up and wearing a respirator anytime I work with insulation or in an attic. The key is to take a freezing cold shower after working with insulation. It avoids getting those itchy fibers into your pores.
I called Roxul to ask them about the two layers. You said the top layer should be flush against the ceiling sub floor in the cavity, then place the next layer. Roxul differs. They said if you are going to use two layers, NOT to have the top layer flush against the subfloor. They said its very important to have a hollow space between the sub floor and the first layer you place in the cavity.
GeoFagus 123 I spoke with reps from Roxul as well and that is what they recommended. If you are using two layers of Safe'N'Sound they said the main installation technique to keep in mind is, make sure that there is a gap between the two layers. Thanks for your comment though it's much appreciated.
There is no need to seal the holes in your ceiling joists cavity. It would help to use acoustic sealant around any holes that go through the subfloor into the first floor. Same goes with any other utilities going through the subfloor to prevent noise from traveling through the small gaps.
Hey Great Video, i just subscribed. You mentioned the minimal difference in STC between one and two layers of safe n sound. Would it be more effective to have a single layer against the floor, in the middle creating two air cavities or up against the ceiling drywall? Also is there anything you can do with cold air returns that run through the joists spacing? Would it be safe to install inside them?
Thanks for subscribing Blake! If you’re installing one layer, I would leave an air gap, then install the batt flush with the ceiling joists. Your cold air returns need that cavity space in order for your HVAC system to function properly. I would not recommend installing it in your cold air returns.
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Following only the steps showed in this video will help reduce sound transmission from instruments. In my opinion you will have to go beyond this for adequate sound proofing. The options are endless depending on your budget. If there is HVAC vents in the room that connect to other parts of the home a lot of sound will travel through there. I would recommend using two layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceiling or Certainteed SilentFX drywall.
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eric Wilhelm thanks! I'm guessing you're asking who sells Res channel. Most big box supply stores will stock it. I bought mine from Home Depot. It's usually located close to the drywall section.
Tell me about it and every inspector has there input on how things should be done. Hopefully, more guidelines will be put into place to make this process easier.
I purchased it from Home Depot. I just priced it out at a Home Depot in Toronto. It's $54.69 (before tax) per bag. Each bag covers 64 sq. ft. That works out to $0.85 per sq. ft.
I figured out what I did wrong. I Was looking at an amazon link and they didn't specify that it had 12 rolls. So I thought each bag was just 4sq ft. It didn't make sense.
Just went to home depot and purchased 15 bags. Paid like 80 dollars to have it shipped this Friday. if you buy 15 or more the price drops to 32$ dollars a bag from 45$ (US) Ended up spending 610$ after taxes and shipping. This stuff better work wonders!
The only time poly is required is on exterior walls and ceilings (attic space above). In this case there was another livable space above this ceiling so no poly was needed. The install steps for an exterior wall or ceiling would be batt insulation, poly with seams taped, res channel, then drywall.
In your video, you say to put the first layer of Roxul up against the subfloor, then leave an air gap below it, and put another layer of Roxul below that. But in Roxul's brochure they show that the air gap should be below the subfloor, and both layers of Roxul should be stacked together. See page 4 here: www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/SnS%20Sheet_Eng.pdf
I spoke with reps from Roxul and they recommended installing it with an air gap between the layers. Either way I doubt it would have much of an effect on the STC rating.
What brand of resilient channel did you use? I’ve been researching and want to be sure what I buy is correct. The Auralex RC8 (best I can tell) seems to what I need for wall and ceiling.
The basement windows let out a lot of sound, what could I do help insulate the windows? I'm a drummer and have a home studio eill be moving to a quiet side street to a house with a finished basement. I'm worried about a neighbor complaining and am trying to figure out if it's possible to really sound proof the basement? Thank you.
Larry Tate hmmm that's tricky. Try cutting some rigid foam insulation to the rough opening of your window. Glue a few pieces of the foam together so it's the same thickness as your window well. When ever you play your drums you could put the foam inside the window jamb to block the noise from escaping. Sorry that's the only quick solution I can think of. I hope it helps.
RICK HARRISON 1 bag covers 60 sq ft & costs $49.59 (CAD). The cost per square foot is $0.82 for one layer of Roxul Safe'N'Sound and $1.64 for two layers. Always add at least 10% more area when calculating your material required.
I put this stuff up first time with a hoodie and no gloves (I wear glasses so my eyes are protected more than if you don't). My hands were a little prickly after a couple of hours but nothing like fibreglass. If you need gloves working with this stuff than maybe you should just call the girl guides to help you, you bunch o' Mary's. I'm teasing. Sure wear gloves. Maybe your wife can give you her Opera gloves, you bunch o' Mary's. I'm still teasing. This stuff is a dream to work with. Cuts easy, form fits, no fuss and no real muss. The jury's still out on the soundproofing as I'm not finished the home recording studio, but I'm expecting it will be far better than the 50% finished Roxul wall and ceiling insulation, half-finished drywall, no carpeting, zero acoustic foam and no acoustic ceiling tiles I'm currently working with. Gotta be better than that, right? Also doing the Green Glue double drywall on the interior wall and a big ass heavy-duty door. As an aside, when I was buying all of this stuff from Home Depot, the salespeople MORE than casually inquired just what the hell I was planning on building in my house. I guess that's part of their vernacular now with instances of people being held in sound proof basements. Yeah, just what I want. More angry females in the house. No thanks. Wife and daughter are MORE than enough. :)
moxxi one day I will be as manly as you and be able to install Roxul with out gloves haha. You're right there is no comparison between working Roxul and fiberglass insulation. It sounds like you're in the right track to build a soundproof studio. Where you get the biggest sound transmission loss is through your duct work (if you have it in your home). Using res channel, doubling your drywall, with green glue in between will definitely help increase your STC rating.
The duct work, vents and HVAC stuff is definitely tricky. I'm only doing the Roxul in the ceiling joists flush with the bottom and leaving the air pocket closer to the 1st floor sub floor. Then doing a suspended ceiling with sound absorbing tiles - I'm hoping that will count as "Mass - Air Pocket - Mass - Air Pocket". My biggest concern is the framed bulkhead. It's approximately 7' x 14' and it's housing a fair amount of ductwork. I was thinking of Roxuling (now it's a verb!) ceiling joists as I've done, but then filling the other areas within the bulkhead with left over Pink R13. Then drywalling the bulkhead as planned and hanging the suspended ceiling underneath that a few inches. If anyone else has any other ideas, I'm all ears!
moxxi I split the Roxul safe'n'sound batts in half and place them between the framing on my bulkheads. I also installed batts above the duct work in the ceiling cavity before the new ducts were installed. Good luck with your project!
I will definitely be doing that - unfortunately the framing of the bulkhead sits below the ductwork by a half inch and I can't even shove the thin R13 sheets I bought in the space. So I'll have to get a little creative. Thanks for your advice!
This will not sound proof the basement from upstairs. stopping sound waves is about energy absorbing and air tight. You must decouple the ceiling and walls. I have achieved this and built a soundproof room in our last house. I am a drummer and could go practice at night after my wife and kids went to sleep. They could not hear it at all.
Separate HVAC is a big one as well. There are different levels that you can go to depending on the STC rating you’re trying to achieve. Decoupling the walls will definitely help 👍🏽
5 years later and found this useful, even here over in the uk.
You’re a beauty! Thanks for the support. I’m glad you found the video helpful.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
I really like this video. It's the most detailed and informative video I've seen on this topic. I almost feel like I can do it myself. Just subscribed and am looking forward the next one. Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback and subscribing. It’s much appreciated 🙏🏽
Hi your video is nice and I am thinking of installing insulation in my basement ceiling. Can hear hardwood sound in the basement when walking in upper floor. Would you recommend installing insulation in a basement ceiling and dry wall it for noise reduction? Is it really worth installing it for noise reduction? Is there anything else I need to do beside putting roxul insulation and dry wall? Thanks for your time.
I do it on all my projects, Safe'N'Sound insulation, resilient channel & 5/8" drywall. You can add two layers of 5/8" drywall to help improve the sound deadening.
I am going to use 1 layer, otherwise it will be to expensive. Excellent video
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your video I like it, what do you think for people who bought an old house and basement is rent already what is the best way for them to reduce the noise
Thanks. Unfortunately, there is not much that can be done in a finished home. Separating the HVAC system and soundproofing means need to be done during construction or renovations.
This isn't directly related to this video but I have a general questions about basement ceilings. Do you ever use drop/suspended ceilings in basments, or always drywall? If you do, is there a video? For the drywall ceilings, do you just build in access panels to valves, gas lines, etc? I would love drywall in the basement I plan on finishing, but my house was built in 1972. I have had to replace some pipes/valves here and there over the past few years and I fear that because of age, this might continue in the future. Thoughts? Thanks so much.
I have never installed a drop ceiling. I prefer a drywall finish and think it looks much better. Here is a link to my video where I show how to install drywall on a ceiling: th-cam.com/video/xnarltDAUZQ/w-d-xo.html
You can use access panels for areas such as water valve shut off's etc. You can buy plastic spring loaded access panels or metal ones with a small access door.
Hi @Simpson Properties,
Great video.
A couple of questions: 1) do you install resilient channel on the walls? 2) Do you install resilient channel and roxul for boxes (soffits) around ductwork? 3) I understand I leave 1/4" between ceiling drywall and side studs, do I also leave 1/4" space between the side drywall, and the ceiling drywall that you hung off of the resilient channel? What do I fill the 1/4" space with, acoustical caulking? Thanks.
+jogaserbia Thanks for the positive feed back and questions.
1) Resilient (res) channel is most commonly used on the ceiling only. It provides a flush surface (furring) to mount drywall to and provides vibration noise reduction. In my res channel video the main reason why I installed it was to eliminate vibrations (people walking, music, etc.) to travel from the main floor apartment to the basement apartment and vice versa. The only time you would usually install res channel on the walls is if you are building a home theater room or share a wall with a neighbor (condo or town home).
2) I don't use res channel on the underside of duct work in order to maximize the ceiling height. However I do use Roxul Safe'N'Sound between the framing around duct work to help increase soundproofing.
3) I don't leave a space between the drywall on the ceiling and the wall. I leave a 1/4" gap between the the res channel and walls ONLY. The drywall should be tight to the wall with no gaps to fill.
+Simpson Properties
thanks again.
Can u install a resillent channel ceiling right over your current ceiling just by removing my current sheet rock and I can throw some roxul between first?
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Great VDO straight to the point, super helpful 👍
Thanks for the feedback. I’m happy to hear you found the content helpful.
Great video! If I were to only use one layer instead of two, you would install it at the top of the cavity with the 1 inch air gap and leave the rest empty correct? Thanks.
Thanks! I have talked with the tech support at Rockwool regarding this. They mentioned the placement of a single batt in the ceiling cavity doesn’t really matter. It’s often easier to leave it towards the bottom of the ceiling cavity flush with the ceiling joists. Usually, there are HVAC ducts, plumbing & electrical installed in the center of the cavity. It’s a pain trying to get the insulation passed all that stuff.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd Wow thanks for the quick response, good to know. Just subscribed, hope the best for you & your channel!
Thanks for the sub and your support Dan. It’s much appreciated 🙏🏽
the funny thing is with this thing, is that i did it in my own basement for a legal duplex, and all the sound still comes through the big holes in the floors, known as vents. regardless of any soundproofing done and required by code, unless you have dual hvac units, this helps, but you will always get noise
todd leggat I agree. I have a buddy who’s doing a duplex conversion now and is installing mini splits to heat/cool the basement unit. This way the duct work will only service the upper unit. He is also installing a product on the the main unit floor that will simulate having 2” of concrete. It’s suppose to really help reduce vibration from unit to unit. It will be interesting to see how it all works.
Hello! Great video. We have impact noise in our open celiing from a very loud commercial HVAC. Would you recommend MLV at all for that?
That would be a good solution to that problem.
I am looking to renovate my previously "finished" basement but I can hear every little footstep, every clang or bang on the floor or counter from anywhere in basement, but voices and music not so much :). floor creaks as well (even after screwing floor screws). the basement has drywall on the ceiling, and no insulation as far I can tell, so should I take it out and put Roxul there? or look for other solutions, ( green glue, MLV, Resilient Channel ..) , looking to rent it. but will never be relaxed the way it is at the moment.
Thanks for the video btw
You will most likely have to remove the existing drywall, install Rockwool Saf’N’Sound, resilient channel and one or two layers of drywall. Keep in mind if both units share common HVAC you will still have noise transfer through the duct work.
At the end of the video for the stairs, you can see daylight so it wouldn't be fire separated and would likely admit noise through, too. Some fire-rated caulking would do the trick.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Thanks for the tip.
So I'm building a home theater in my basement and I'm wondering what if any additional steps would you take to make it so that people can't hear the movie and bass in the room about the basement theater?
There are tons of additional steps that can be taken. A quick google search will provide lots of info. Some quick tips are two layers of drywall, Sound FX drywall (Certainteed), green glue, Sonopan etc.
Well spoken 👍clear to the point
Thanks for watching 👍🏽
Thanks, great video. If you only use one layer, is it supposed to go up against the subfloor or below against the resilient channel?
Thank you! If you're only installing one layer it should be installed in the lower portion of the ceiling cavity flush with the bottom of your ceiling joist. This will also make your life easier during the installation process by not having to squeeze the Roxul behind HVAC, plumbing & electrical since most of it is ran in the center of the ceiling cavity.
Do u have to use drywall? I don’t want to cover my plumbing as it is old & may need repairs. I’m just trying to put some sound barrier between me and my roommate below me in my basement
You could install a drop ceiling with ceiling tiles instead. It won’t provide as much sound deadening properties as drywall. It will give you access to any mechanicals in your ceiling cavity.
Thanks for verifying the 1 layer vs 2 layers as the STC rating is only 3 STC difference.
I have a total of 500 sq ft to insulate an entire basement, which is expensive but worth it. However, you mention putting in TWO layers of Roxul Safe N Sound which obviously doubles the price. Instead of putting two layers of Roxul Safe N Sound, could I do one layer of Safe N Sound and one layer of regular R38 insulation?
You're probably better of using Roxul Safe'N'Sound since that product is designed for soundproofing. I would recommend giving Roxul a call. Their technical support team will be able to give you the best advice.
I'm not a sound proofing expert, but I believe you want an air gap so sound doesn't have a way to directly pass through. Using R38 insulation plus a layer of Roxul your insulation thickness will be 15 inches (12 for R38 and 3 for Roxul). so with 2x10 or 2x12 floor joists you'd end up compressing the insulation to make it fit.
Ashton Noland can I ask you how much it cost you as I have almost same size basement and have problems with voice.
Thanks for the great video :) just a question for you about insulating near the pot lights you show in about 3:10-3:15 in the videos. Are those insulation contact fixtures? If not, are you able to insulate right against the fixtures because the R value is so low in the safe and sound and the boxes won't over heat? Or lastly, is this simple an error?
Thank you!
Abhay Fernandez those are IC rated pot lights which is done correctly according to our local electrical code. I highly recommend you buy IC rated pot lights no matter what type of insulation is used in the cavity.
Wont that settle over time?
No stapples or nothing keeping it in place?
Even if it does settle it will not make a difference in sound deadening.
Thanks for the video! Do you just let friction keep the upper layer of insulation there? Wouldn't it eventually slip down? Also if I want to install radiant heating under the floor above could I still put the insulation flush to the floor?
DJ Malleck thank you. The batts are a little larger than the ceiling cavity and will expand in place. I talked to a Roxul rep about the batts falling down over time. Even if that happens it won't have any major impact on the STC rating. If you're using radiant heat above there is no issues with using Roxul below. ROXUL is a fire-resistant insulation, it resists temperatures of up to 2150◦F (1177◦C) without burning or melting.
Thanks! Great and helpful videos and thanks for the quick feedback.
A proper installation would include mechanical support. You can get thin rigid wire sized just for that application. I don't know if it has a name, but the wire sticks are about 15" long, perfect for tensioning between 16 OC joists.
Any worries of 2 layers trapping moisture?
None at all. There should not be any condensation inside your floor or ceiling joists. Exterior walls and attic spaces could have those issues if improper vapor barrier installs are done (ie. Double vapor barrier).
It looks pretty simple to do and not too expensive. I don't understand why my landlord didn't do it, I mean good tenants will more likely to stay longer. I am moving out of a basement after 2 months... disaster
It’s worth every penny as an investment. It makes the living environment much more enjoyable for the tenants.
Thanks, Mr Simpson! great Video straight to the point!
I try to get to the point with all my videos. Nobody has time for fluff.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
if go with one layer, is there any code requirement that it has to be up higher or lower on top of the drywall ? or just a preference thing, and not really right or wrong way ?
If you’re installing this for the purpose of sound dampening only I would leave an air gap, then install the batt towards the bottom of the cavity. If have heated floors above (ie.radiant heat) I would install the batts towards the top of the cavity so the heated floors drive the heat upwards.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd hmm.. why on the bottom ? it's not code right, just your preference ? sometimes there's wire or pipes that forces you to put it higher.. and either way you put it, there's still an air pocket, so why is it better for the air pocket to be on the upper side ? sorry, not attacking your way, but I like to analyze and I like answers with details explaining one's reasons for doing things this way or that way ?
Great Video, Thanks
Thanks for watching 👍🏽
I wish you would show the tricky areas and how to deal with them.
There is a lot of HVAC and pipes in my basement that gets in the way of putting it flush with the ceiling.
I ended up folding it into a V shape to get around some pipes.. is that bad?
Darren Jones nothing should be hanging below your ceiling joists. I added additional support where ever HVAC ducts sagged below a ceiling joist. Thanks for the suggestion. Next time I shoot a video on this topic I will go more in depth with the prep work.
All these sound proofing videos ignore one very important issue. You can pack the cavity till the cows come home but if you don't address the ductwork, both supply and return, you may be disappointed with the result. I would draw the analogy with my clients to the old sea captain up on the bridge calling down to the engine room by simply speaking through a connecting pipe. Same thing happens in your home or business. Adding fibreglass duct liner to the inside of your ductwork is common practice in sound studios and office buildings to prevent sound transmission and cross talk. Hope this is helpful.
George Labottum I agree with your analogy. If there is common duct work between units there will still be lots of sound transmitted through the duct work. IMO it’s best to have separate HVAC and utilities for each unit. That resolves that issue.
Are you recommending to install fiberglass insulation inside the duct work?
@@simpsonpropertiesltd
If you are talking unit heaters /AC units, it will make a huge difference to install ductliner from the unit to the diffuser. In my custom home I had ductliner installed for the first 8 ft of the supply duct running from the furnace. Cut the noise down tremendously. Well worth the expense.
It’s there an issue with the fibreglass in the ductwork getting into the return?
@@416pp No issue if you install mat facing faced duct liner. John's Manville Lineacoustic duct liner. Black in colour with a black mat facing. Go see a local sheet metal shop. Good chance they have it in stock. Other manufacturers: Owens Corning, Knauf fiberglass.
Here in the U.K we don't have safe sound, we have Rockwool: now wich would you recommend: 75mmm x60kg3 or 100mmx 45kg3? Would you rather have less thick but more dense or thicker but less dense? Thank you
Sorry for such a late reply. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer of the insulation and see what will work better for your application.
Would it be okay if I use R20 insulation at the top and a rockwool layer at the bottom to save on cost or it defeats the fire rating? Thanks
Sorry for the late reply. I would recommend you reach out to Rockwool’s tech support with that question: 1 (800) 265-6878
Someone that cares about their tenets…there still hope in the world
I try my best to take care of my customers.
Why did you not use Sonopan then drywall?
Sonopan did not exist when I made this video. Friends of mine have used the product and say it’s great.
How is it only plus 3 rating for a whole extra layer???
I know. I still install the extra layer if there is the room for it.
Everything good except the last part when doing the stairs. You can clearly see openings in the stairs in multiple areas, sound travels through air like water. Any gap will be a path. Very important before you insulate to use foam spray (can) or aqoustic Silicone and fill all those gaps and then insulate, cheers.
I agree. Thanks for the feedback!
Do you have any videos with the actual noise happening and then after the soundproofing?
Sorry I don’t have any videos showing that.
Hey Dwight,
Any tips on products to reduce sound under stairs? Aside from packing Roxul and drywall.. is there a spray product for this that you may suggest? Spraying would be easier but any advise is welcome!
Thanks!
Hey Andrew, sorry I'm not aware of any spray products that you can use for the void under the stairs. The only other recommendation I would make is to use 5/8" drywall or two sheets of 1/2" drywall with green glue between the layers beneath your stairs. I hope this helps and thanks for checking out my video!
How do you install the safe and sound product around things that take up a lot of space between the joists such as hvac ducts or water supply/drain lines?
By the way, really excited I found this channel as you're covering a ton of topics I'm interested in for my basement reno!
Most of your electrical and water lines should be installed in the center of the cavity. You can squeeze the insulation on one side and push it above the obstructions. You can do the same thing for duct work, unless the entire cavity is blocked. In that case you would have to remove the duct work, install the insulation, then re-install your duct work.
How much more effective is the Sound n' Safe in reducing sound transmission as opposed to the standard thermal insulation?
akrasia1969 I have no idea. You would have to contact Roxul's tech support line to answer this question.
regular glass insulation actually is comparable, but would be difficult to prove that to an inspector. ive seen studies years ago, quite similar
what about the floor though, can you use these things on the floor and fasten your floor to the metal channels?
Res channel is not designed to be installed on a floor support and live load. You would have to look at different options such as Soprema Insonofloor and Acoustiboard.
how do achieve the air space from the first layer to the second? i put the first layer in, and then do I just put the second layer right up against the first? Thanks.
Depending on the depth of your ceiling cavity you may or may not have room for an air gap. Don’t overthink this step too much. I usually push the first batt to the top of the cavity and install the second batt flush with the ceiling joist. Leaving an air gap between the two batts of insulation.
Which rockwool would you recommend? Thickness x density? I'm soundproofing my garage using 4x2 studs. For rehearsal with my band! Im a drummer! Thank you brow!
I would recommend using Roxul Safe’N’Sound insulation. It comes in either 16” or 24” widths. Depending on how wide your cavities are will determine what size to buy.
Dwight-have you ever used Mass Loaded Vinyl sheeting on top of the roxul? So my idea is to put the Roxul in the cavity and then layer MLV across, then add the drywall. I want to add mass and density to help the Roxul by adding MLV. Any thoughts?
GeoFagus 123 I have not heard of using MLV then installing drywall. So I can't comment on how it will perform. The only recommendation I can give you are other common materials used to help sound proof. To increase the mass and density usually thicker drywall is used 5/8". Installing 2 layers of 1/2" or 5/8" will really help increase mass & density. You can also add Green Glue between the layers of drywall. Check out my "How to Install Resilent Channel" video if you haven't. That will help reduce vibration noise. When you install resilient channel you can go over kill and install clips with a rubber backing first. Then your res channel is held in place by the clips. I hope this helps.
Since fiberglass or mineral wool or safe and sound doesn’t have transmission loss or stc data why will it block sound ? Sound blocking requires mass , second layer of drywall, or decoupling with spring hanger. Where is data supporting these STC claims?
I said at the beginning of the video these are “Sound deadening” techniques. Check out Rockwools web site for STC ratings based on different construction methods.
@@simpsonpropertiesltd not sure what you mean by Sound Deadening. The goal of treating the ceiling is to Block the sound from room above and room below. Sound blocking is about transmission loss which is related to the density of a material. Insulation material has density of 1 to maybe 6 lb/cuft. Gypsum has density of about 100+. The TL of insulation is so low it’s not even measured or stated. As you correctly pointed the Rockwool website only list it as part of a structure. The only lab measure of insulation is absorption coefficient. It’s a porous material. . Since the structure is a spring- mass- dampening system with using air and gypsum, just a little fluffy pink fiberglass might be useful for dampening BUT using expensive safe and sound is like storing money in your ceiling.
In addition if the gypsum is in direct contact with joists and not floated on springs the sound energy goes through the joist and completely bypasses the insulation. Please reconsider advising DIYers about how to soundproof a ceiling. Unfortunately they do watch TH-cam
@@mikebiffignani5758 thanks for the tips Mikey! You sound like you have lots of knowledge around this topic. TH-cam “DIYers” could use your wisdom and intellect. I recommend you start putting out content for the world to enjoy.
Just found this. I have a question. I already have a existing drop ceiling and would like to keep it but install safe and sound inbetween the joists? Is that good enough?
It all depends on what level of sound dampening you’re trying to achieve.
If you are opening up a basement floor for better clearance, would you just apply the one layer flush with the overlying floorboard? Would this compromise the fire retardation benefit?
I’m sorry I don’t follow your question. Can you please clarify what you’re asking?
@@simpsonpropertiesltd Sure. imagine you have a basement ceiling with sheetrock attached to ceiling joists. I remove the sheetrock. Would I apply the soundproofing material directly to the upstairs floorboards?
I follow you now. I have talked to reps from Rockwool and they said it’s irrelevant if the insulation is in the upper part of the cavity or flush with ceiling joist. It will most likely be easier to install it towards the lower portion of the cavity flush with the ceiling joists.
I have sound coming thru the register from the upper level, Do you recommend i use acoustic sealant around that area?
Sorry for the late reply. I am only seeing this comment now. HVAC duct work that is common between units is usually the toughest area to fix. Unless, you have separate HVAC systems for each unit there is not much that can be done to resolve this issue. Other than closing particular vents.
I am wondering how you can manage to stand installing Roxul Safe N Sound with just a T-shirt on like you do at the end of the video? I have tried just installing 2-3 pieces while wearing a long sleeve shirt, gloves, safety glasses, and dust mask and I go friggin berserk. Its some of the itchiest stuff I have ever come across. Its like being on fire...
How do you like it?
Matt N. I agree Roxul can make you very itchy but no where near as bad as fiberglass insulation. I am usually suited up and wearing a respirator anytime I work with insulation or in an attic. The key is to take a freezing cold shower after working with insulation. It avoids getting those itchy fibers into your pores.
I called Roxul to ask them about the two layers. You said the top layer should be flush against the ceiling sub floor in the cavity, then place the next layer. Roxul differs. They said if you are going to use two layers, NOT to have the top layer flush against the subfloor. They said its very important to have a hollow space between the sub floor and the first layer you place in the cavity.
GeoFagus 123 I spoke with reps from Roxul as well and that is what they recommended. If you are using two layers of Safe'N'Sound they said the main installation technique to keep in mind is, make sure that there is a gap between the two layers. Thanks for your comment though it's much appreciated.
How big should that gap be, did they say?
Larry Tate give the reps at Roxul a call they can give you detailed info. on this 1 (800) 265-6878.
Hi, do I have to caulk the holes the in joist that the bx electrical cables run through? If I don't will it make a huge difference?
There is no need to seal the holes in your ceiling joists cavity. It would help to use acoustic sealant around any holes that go through the subfloor into the first floor. Same goes with any other utilities going through the subfloor to prevent noise from traveling through the small gaps.
Long sleeves shits and pants, this starts interesting🤣. But seems very interesting will keep watching lol
🫤
5/8 type x drywall sell at just about any big box store in canada in 2018
Yes 5/8” Type X it’s very common. I was referring to 1/2” Type X being harder to find.
Hey Great Video, i just subscribed. You mentioned the minimal difference in STC between one and two layers of safe n sound. Would it be more effective to have a single layer against the floor, in the middle creating two air cavities or up against the ceiling drywall? Also is there anything you can do with cold air returns that run through the joists spacing? Would it be safe to install inside them?
Thanks for subscribing Blake! If you’re installing one layer, I would leave an air gap, then install the batt flush with the ceiling joists. Your cold air returns need that cavity space in order for your HVAC system to function properly. I would not recommend installing it in your cold air returns.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Would this be enough for loud musical instruments (drums, guitar) or would I need more heavy-duty stuff for that?
Following only the steps showed in this video will help reduce sound transmission from instruments. In my opinion you will have to go beyond this for adequate sound proofing. The options are endless depending on your budget. If there is HVAC vents in the room that connect to other parts of the home a lot of sound will travel through there. I would recommend using two layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceiling or Certainteed SilentFX drywall.
Theo, I just added a cautionary comment about your question. Please see my recent post.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Hi Dwight , informative video ! Who is sling the resilient Channels ? thanks
eric Wilhelm thanks! I'm guessing you're asking who sells Res channel. Most big box supply stores will stock it. I bought mine from Home Depot. It's usually located close to the drywall section.
Saw them in Lowes today. About 4 bucs each. They are in the isle with all metal channels, corner beads and drywall.
I mean are the pants a deal breaker? This seems like a clothing optional project.
+Joshua Antonucci hahaha
much appreciated, not alot of info on ontario code for sound/fire proofing for income suites
Tell me about it and every inspector has there input on how things should be done. Hopefully, more guidelines will be put into place to make this process easier.
SafenSound is so expensive at homedepot. Iike 660 for 50 sq ft. Where do you buy it?
I purchased it from Home Depot. I just priced it out at a Home Depot in Toronto.
It's $54.69 (before tax) per bag. Each bag covers 64 sq. ft. That works out to $0.85 per sq. ft.
Simpson Properties I guess I'm doing my math wrong
I figured out what I did wrong. I Was looking at an amazon link and they didn't specify that it had 12 rolls. So I thought each bag was just 4sq ft. It didn't make sense.
Ah ok. I’m glad you got the pricing figured out!
Just went to home depot and purchased 15 bags. Paid like 80 dollars to have it shipped this Friday.
if you buy 15 or more the price drops to 32$ dollars a bag from 45$ (US)
Ended up spending 610$ after taxes and shipping. This stuff better work wonders!
Question. Are you suppose to put poly sheet on top of insulation and then the resilient channels?
The only time poly is required is on exterior walls and ceilings (attic space above). In this case there was another livable space above this ceiling so no poly was needed. The install steps for an exterior wall or ceiling would be batt insulation, poly with seams taped, res channel, then drywall.
In your video, you say to put the first layer of Roxul up against the subfloor, then leave an air gap below it, and put another layer of Roxul below that. But in Roxul's brochure they show that the air gap should be below the subfloor, and both layers of Roxul should be stacked together. See page 4 here:
www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/SnS%20Sheet_Eng.pdf
I spoke with reps from Roxul and they recommended installing it with an air gap between the layers. Either way I doubt it would have much of an effect on the STC rating.
Simpson Properties Thanks!
What brand of resilient channel did you use? I’ve been researching and want to be sure what I buy is correct. The Auralex RC8 (best I can tell) seems to what I need for wall and ceiling.
The brand I used is manufactured by Bailey. It's available at most big box stores in my area (Toronto, Canada).
Could one use Type C 1/2 inch drywall for Ceiling to get STC 50 and also high Fire separationn?
I’m not sure. I have never heard of Type C drywall. Type X 5/8” drywall is typically used in fire rated areas.
What can u do about the Windows?
I'm sorry Larry I don't understand what you're asking.
The basement windows let out a lot of sound, what could I do help insulate the windows? I'm a drummer and have a home studio eill be moving to a quiet side street to a house with a finished basement. I'm worried about a neighbor complaining and am trying to figure out if it's possible to really sound proof the basement? Thank you.
Larry Tate hmmm that's tricky. Try cutting some rigid foam insulation to the rough opening of your window. Glue a few pieces of the foam together so it's the same thickness as your window well. When ever you play your drums you could put the foam inside the window jamb to block the noise from escaping. Sorry that's the only quick solution I can think of. I hope it helps.
how much does this cost per square foot
RICK HARRISON 1 bag covers 60 sq ft & costs $49.59 (CAD). The cost per square foot is $0.82 for one layer of Roxul Safe'N'Sound and $1.64 for two layers. Always add at least 10% more area when calculating your material required.
Quietrock baby
I haven’t tried that product. Have you had good results with it?
I put this stuff up first time with a hoodie and no gloves (I wear glasses so my eyes are protected more than if you don't). My hands were a little prickly after a couple of hours but nothing like fibreglass. If you need gloves working with this stuff than maybe you should just call the girl guides to help you, you bunch o' Mary's. I'm teasing. Sure wear gloves. Maybe your wife can give you her Opera gloves, you bunch o' Mary's. I'm still teasing. This stuff is a dream to work with. Cuts easy, form fits, no fuss and no real muss. The jury's still out on the soundproofing as I'm not finished the home recording studio, but I'm expecting it will be far better than the 50% finished Roxul wall and ceiling insulation, half-finished drywall, no carpeting, zero acoustic foam and no acoustic ceiling tiles I'm currently working with. Gotta be better than that, right? Also doing the Green Glue double drywall on the interior wall and a big ass heavy-duty door. As an aside, when I was buying all of this stuff from Home Depot, the salespeople MORE than casually inquired just what the hell I was planning on building in my house. I guess that's part of their vernacular now with instances of people being held in sound proof basements. Yeah, just what I want. More angry females in the house. No thanks. Wife and daughter are MORE than enough. :)
moxxi one day I will be as manly as you and be able to install Roxul with out gloves haha. You're right there is no comparison between working Roxul and fiberglass insulation. It sounds like you're in the right track to build a soundproof studio. Where you get the biggest sound transmission loss is through your duct work (if you have it in your home). Using res channel, doubling your drywall, with green glue in between will definitely help increase your STC rating.
The duct work, vents and HVAC stuff is definitely tricky. I'm only doing the Roxul in the ceiling joists flush with the bottom and leaving the air pocket closer to the 1st floor sub floor. Then doing a suspended ceiling with sound absorbing tiles - I'm hoping that will count as "Mass - Air Pocket - Mass - Air Pocket". My biggest concern is the framed bulkhead. It's approximately 7' x 14' and it's housing a fair amount of ductwork. I was thinking of Roxuling (now it's a verb!) ceiling joists as I've done, but then filling the other areas within the bulkhead with left over Pink R13. Then drywalling the bulkhead as planned and hanging the suspended ceiling underneath that a few inches. If anyone else has any other ideas, I'm all ears!
moxxi I split the Roxul safe'n'sound batts in half and place them between the framing on my bulkheads. I also installed batts above the duct work in the ceiling cavity before the new ducts were installed. Good luck with your project!
I will definitely be doing that - unfortunately the framing of the bulkhead sits below the ductwork by a half inch and I can't even shove the thin R13 sheets I bought in the space. So I'll have to get a little creative. Thanks for your advice!
This will not sound proof the basement from upstairs. stopping sound waves is about energy absorbing and air tight. You must decouple the ceiling and walls. I have achieved this and built a soundproof room in our last house. I am a drummer and could go practice at night after my wife and kids went to sleep. They could not hear it at all.
Separate HVAC is a big one as well. There are different levels that you can go to depending on the STC rating you’re trying to achieve. Decoupling the walls will definitely help 👍🏽
2.38 "Rocksalt"? Dammit!
Haha
Another video used just 1 layer and an airspace.
I’m not sure if you watched the whole video but towards the end I talked about the different STC rating using 1 or 2 layers.