I don't know about ya'll, but I found 35:28 - 35:33 to be some of the most compelling footage of this video. I could feel the excitement and tension of the in-depth thinking and planning.
When your worst defect is countersinking the wrong side of a plate hole, your meticulous planning is paying off. While we respect that you show your work (and mistakes), no one want to see you waste time & money on reworking avoidable errors. Keep up the great work, and thanks for bringing us along!
Maybe you've already considered this but the difference in thermal expansion between the big aluminum front plate and the cast iron of the machine could cause some loss of precision. A 10Fdeg swing down in temperature would try to pull those two ends together where the slides are by roughly .0015 inch. Guessing that would tend to lift up the long edge of the table which is away from the spindle. I would consider leaving the screws on the right end loose so it can float. The error won't be much it could be noticeable if you are chasing tenths. Cool project!
What an awesome project James. It's looking great! As many others have said it's great to have you back posting content. Hope all is well and thanks again for taking us along!
Consider using manual focus when doing shots of objects a fixed distance from the camera (like lathe work), and saving auto focus for things where the subject moves (like people). Downside is more effort while filming, and a chance of forgetting which focus mode you're in & not even getting the chips sharp. It's also possible for most cameras to set the auto focus to only change when a button is held, or have a toggle button to lock the focus. So you can pre-focus, then lock the focus & do the machining.
Having worked in the trade my entire life I found only only one consistently reliable way to cut off work in the lathe, A big rigid machine with plenty of horsepower. Other than that I have some tricks I employ in my home shop, but there is no substitution for rigidity, and horsepower. As usual James, a first class video, and project.
Hi Janes, when you cut-off parts on the lathe by using the cut tool, simply drive two cuts to give the chips just a little space to come off the cutting slot. Just 0.2 or 0.5mm for the second cut. Drive 5mm (radius) deep, then offset of 0.5, same depth, then next 5mm on first position… and so on.
Hi James, great video as always. I really enjoy your "design for send cut send and 3D print" methodology, it really does bring the ability to make cool stuff to the masses. I guess someone will make a service for cheap custom pulleys at some point, so you can get whatever tooth count, design, size, bore, securing mechanism you need without needing to costumize the part yourself.
Seen just the intro, my mind goes "oh, fancy new dramatic lighting" and its deliciously fancy! Gotta love the contrast and crispyness, plus the accent linght in the mill!
Absolutely my favorite machining channel on youtube! I really enjoy your way of planning and execution as well as your kind of humor! Concerning the plate in front of the grinder: I would probably add another hole in the plate at the center of the pully for the z-axis. That way you'll be able to adjust the bearing tension from outside without opening the whole assembly again. You can print a TPU plug for it in order to keep the swarf out. Keep up the good work!
What a great video, you’re a very clever bloke. Personally I think it would look better if the aluminium plate at the front was painted in the same colour as the surface grinder. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
I didn't even notice the focus until he said something. But my glasses are about 4 years out of date so I'm not sure I'm qualified to comment on it - especially mid video. Anyways, like I said- if he didn't point it out, I wouldn't have noticed it one way or the other. I'm replying under your comment because you appear to be the only other person that saw the focus thing.
I'd be putting washers on the nema mounts. Steel round heads on aluminium is not great due to the high pressure over an abbreviated area due to the slot.
turn your parting tool upsidedown and run in reverse, like you were turning brass. I do the same for threading too. No more chatter. When it deflects, this way it reduces load on the tool, rather than biting into the part deeper
Just to be pedantic, you could scrape off the paint you have covered with the new adapter for the height adjustment. Just so you keep things coplanar ? Nice build, clean and detailed, as always. I love the design parts, and i concur it is more time efficient to outsource your parts. Even better when it's free.
Hmm... I did the same type of retrofit on my B&S 618. Placing motors and couplings on the front was a huge mistake for my workflow. I lost access to the handwheels, making everything a little harder for quick, dirty passes. If you lose access to manual spindle height, a 5-10 millionths scale is nice to have. Sparking out still leaves a 1-4 microns of height difference for grinders with light spindle assemblies (< 200lbs) when grinding hardened alloys or ceramics. You can feel the spindle raise on the manual handle, it feels like backlash. I'm redesigning my mod as I write this, placing motors in the back of the grinder, using speed reducers, and a servo engagement clutch for each access and heidenhain scales on y and z axis.
I thought about that. My current plan is to have an encoder wheel for manual operation, but you may be correct that I'll miss having the wheels. I certainly missed them when I converted my G0704 mill.
I REALLY enjoy your videos. Have you considered adding simple drip edge covers above the X&Z axis motors to help keep cutting fluid out? Just a thought. Thanks again for these great videos. F.C.
10:35 another thing with a er32 holder it’s super handy for mounting little boring bars depending how your lathe is. on the machine I was using the top slide stuck out further than a tool holder would so to clear the slide the little bars had to be set up all the way at the end of a holder with lots of stick out but the ER collets added that extra inch or so while still being ridge in comparison.
Cut off with a caebide insert parting blade, you really want a trickle of coolant in there. It makes a day and night difference to running dry or trying to get oil there with a brush. Been parting off 130 mm diameter stuff with no problems, but if for some reason the trickle of coolant stops, it jams the chips or I can feel it starting to rub almost immediately even in small stuff.
Parting,.. i had the same issue with my smithy 1340 lathe. i would blow up parting tools all the time. to remedy this i moved the tool about half t he thickness of the tool to the left and cut about 1/2 way to the parting line then position the tool for the part and go at it. it takes more time and waste some material and depending on the hardness it does have some deflection but it did stop blowing up my carbide …
Yeah, I thought about that. There's a USB connector on the back of the motor that needs to line up with the gap between the saddle and the frame so I can get a right-angle programming cable on it. I didn't think to mention that in the video.
I wonder if you had oriented the mounting holes for the last motor at 45’ off vertical, would it have allowed the belt to clear? Also, off topic; you mentioned in a previous video that you used to be a woodworker but had moved on to metalworking/machining and sold those tools. I’m a woodworker that would also love to do machining if only for a lack of space in my small shop. However, I’d hate to drop one for the other. Question; do you ever find yourself wanting to get back into woodworking?
Maybe? There is a USB connector on the back of the motor that needs to line up with the gap between the saddle and the frame so I can get a programming cable on it, and rotating the motor makes this hard to do without risking striking the frame at full travel with either the motor heat sink or the right angle micro USB cable.
When you are making a sketch in Fusion to export something like the bridge plate as a DXF, you can actually skip creating a projection and immediately tell it to finish. If the features are all continuous and on the same plane, they will be shown in the DXF. You only need to project geometry that is not on the sketch plane or not continuous to the area you clicked on when you created the sketch. Not a huge time saver, but it can all add up.
I turned off the auto-projection feature in my Fusion 360 settings because creating all of the extra geometry often creates multiple profiles that I then have to select for extrusion later.
Parting issues: It looks like you have an angled insert to not leave a nub on the part. Tried them myself and found it tends to cause the tool to deflect (at least on a lathe this size or smaller) and then get stuck in the part....and still leaves a nub. The other thing that might help is raising the tool a smidge (make sure it's an imperial or metric 'smidge' as suits your lathe!). You may have enough flex that, under load, the tip of the tool is going below centreline and digging in...which as you've found, usually results in colourful language and dodging flying fragments of parting tool. I've had the holder shatter as well as the insert...which is even more annoying. The other thing worth doing (at this size of lathe) is switching to an aluminium profile MGGN insert. Night and day better as it has a sharper tip and cuts rather than ploughs - I don't think we have the rigidity or power to plough through.
Whenever I make a mistake on a part I always say, “Well I need to pay attention more.” or “Now I know for next time to mark the side I want to machine.” I only pay attention more for like an hour or two and then it’s back to normal, haha
I reckon you should be investing large chunks of cash in the replacement of that sorry-looking brush which is used for applying coolant/oil to the job surface. Otherwise, fascinating video. Happy New Year James!
29:45 rumor has it that you can yell "focus you FUCK" at the camera, and sometimes it focuses on the right thing. Might not work for all cameras though, so results might vary.
This camera has a feature where the focus ring will temporarily change the auto focus point, so when I manually focused, I didn't notice that it had reverted to autofocus when I powered it off. New camera learning curve.
Nice to see you back on my Sunday morning viewing . Another great video. Is your eventual aim for full automation to a design specification measurement of a part.
Not really. Since the wheel wears, that's a tall order. I started out just wanting to stop cranking X, but Robin Renzetti convinced me that there's a lot of benefit to automating the other axes.
Awesome job. Did you think of making the top of the motor plate match the belt cover on the x axis to possibly keep swarf out of the belt and pulleys for that axis?
I'm just spit-balling here but could you rotate your Z Axis hole placements by 90° to (12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock) which would then allow you to use all 4 screws & standoffs on the motor? Then the 4th standoff would be encompassed by the drive belt and still allow full adjustable and rigidity? Just a thought... As always great planning and execution, thx.
I didn't mention that the motor is positioned where it is to allow access to the USB programming connector on the back of the motor between the saddle and the base.
Are those "Shop Certified safety" Slippers I noticed you waring??? Wouldn't want you to drop something and be down for the start of 2024... hehe ... Glad you are doing better ... Thanks for sharing ... Stay safe and get well ...
I belive I have searched the whole internet, how do you pan around like that in Fusion?? You can Zoom and roatate in all axis in the same time. Thx in advice!
Love all your work , and your Craftsmanship awesome! But i dont understand why u send parts out to be cut else where. Why not use your plasma table and then the mill to finish the parts. We wanna see you design and make the parts with your tools! Id really like your videos even more ! Please consider 😊
Really neat video, thank you. Possibly silly question, when you're tapping the spacers from both ends towards the center is there any concern the threads would be out of phase when they meet in the middle? That seems like it might be an issue but I don't know how serious it would be.
Not in this application. He is using two sets of screws - one from each end. Half the standoff fastens the motor to the standoff and the other half fastens the standoff to the mounting plate. To visualize this better, instead of thinking one piece with one threaded hole, imagine two pieces each with a threaded hole but glued together. The threads only need to be oriented to the work they are doing. So in this case, while it us a single goal, each end is doing a separate job to accommodate it. If it was a single screw or bolt going all the way through the standoff, the concern would be there. But because it is essentially one piece performing two functions, that concern can be ignored. I hope that did not confuse you.
Why do you use send-cut-send when you have a plasma table on the other side of the room? Just don't want to deal with sourcing/handling the material or what?
Is it possible to fit a rear tool-post to your Grizzly lathe to carry a parting tool? Before fitting one to my Myford Super 7 parting was an operation I dreaded. Since fitting one it's an operation I can carry out completely stress free.
The cross slide doesn't have T slots on this model, nor can you run it in reverse, due to the threaded spindle. I've been playing with parting since this video and discovered some things that help considerably.
@@Clough42 My Myford cannot be run in reverse with any tool load, again, due to the threaded spindle. Unfortunately the absence of T slots is probably a deal breaker. I use my rear tool-post with the lathe running in the normal direction but with parting tool inverted. The natural servo action of the flex of the lathe virtually eliminates dig-ins by reducing the cut as the load is applied IYKWIM..
I only use it when I'm in front of the camera, and the Sony eye tracking has been excellent for that. Otherwise, I (intend to) focus everything manually.
I was 15 when we metrified and I have spent 40 years as a Mech Eng in metric. My home lathes have all been imperial. This results in combining measurement systems in conversation all the time. I can do most metric conversions in my head. The only thing I cant understand is the insistance of Yanks in useing fractions. That is a middle ages system that died with the calculator.
I try not to talk about pricing, just because videos and comments live forever, and the information will be out of date rapidly. You can easily go to the web site, upload a DXF and play with the parameters to see the pricing.
I don't know bud, give us an hour or 2 long video of you sitting there thinking. I'm sure someone will mention in the comments exactly how compelling it is.
Here for the April 1st video of Mr 42 just sitting there and pondering.
I don't know about ya'll, but I found 35:28 - 35:33 to be some of the most compelling footage of this video. I could feel the excitement and tension of the in-depth thinking and planning.
That was my experience as well.
One of very few channels that keeps my attention the entire video. Thank you for all your hard work.
When your worst defect is countersinking the wrong side of a plate hole, your meticulous planning is paying off. While we respect that you show your work (and mistakes), no one want to see you waste time & money on reworking avoidable errors. Keep up the great work, and thanks for bringing us along!
Watching James is like watching pro golf, he makes it look easy.
Yep…., James’ planning and preparation does make it go smoothly.
Countersinking aside…
🤣
A very enjoyable channel.
Robert
I love the fact that u point out your mistakes that everyone makes. Good work, keep up the good work. 👍🏻
Maybe you've already considered this but the difference in thermal expansion between the big aluminum front plate and the cast iron of the machine could cause some loss of precision. A 10Fdeg swing down in temperature would try to pull those two ends together where the slides are by roughly .0015 inch. Guessing that would tend to lift up the long edge of the table which is away from the spindle. I would consider leaving the screws on the right end loose so it can float. The error won't be much it could be noticeable if you are chasing tenths. Cool project!
Those nut plates were are really smart idea man. Very nicely done!
So happy to see you posting again, I hope you back in good form!
what kind of surgery he had?
@@raulc398He had an electronic lead screw installed and his clear path servos refurbished
@@raulc398penile lengthening.
So happy to see you back, and hope all is going well with you!
Hope all is well. Glad your back
What an awesome project James. It's looking great! As many others have said it's great to have you back posting content. Hope all is well and thanks again for taking us along!
Maybe if you stick some self-adhesive googly-eyes near the tip of the tool, the eye tracking in your camera will focus correctly.
Such a great work. Tahnk you for sharing. Looking foward for next videos
so much work just wow
Consider using manual focus when doing shots of objects a fixed distance from the camera (like lathe work), and saving auto focus for things where the subject moves (like people). Downside is more effort while filming, and a chance of forgetting which focus mode you're in & not even getting the chips sharp. It's also possible for most cameras to set the auto focus to only change when a button is held, or have a toggle button to lock the focus. So you can pre-focus, then lock the focus & do the machining.
I've been through this before, definitely will help with any information from that experience.
Absolutely amazing. Once you get that grinder up and running you will be doing even more amazing stuff. My favorite machining channel.
Having worked in the trade my entire life I found only only one consistently reliable way to cut off work in the lathe, A big rigid machine with plenty of horsepower. Other than that I have some tricks I employ in my home shop, but there is no substitution for rigidity, and horsepower. As usual James, a first class video, and project.
Hi Janes, when you cut-off parts on the lathe by using the cut tool, simply drive two cuts to give the chips just a little space to come off the cutting slot. Just 0.2 or 0.5mm for the second cut. Drive 5mm (radius) deep, then offset of 0.5, same depth, then next 5mm on first position… and so on.
Hi James, great video as always. I really enjoy your "design for send cut send and 3D print" methodology, it really does bring the ability to make cool stuff to the masses. I guess someone will make a service for cheap custom pulleys at some point, so you can get whatever tooth count, design, size, bore, securing mechanism you need without needing to costumize the part yourself.
Welcome back
Nicely done. Glad you’re on the mend.
I really, really enjoyed this video. Great quality video and audio is part of that. Subscriber for life.
Seen just the intro, my mind goes "oh, fancy new dramatic lighting" and its deliciously fancy! Gotta love the contrast and crispyness, plus the accent linght in the mill!
Thanks! I was getting tired of everything looking bright and flat.
Welcome back, hope the surgery recovery went well.
Great to see you James! you are back doing videos! I’m happy that Surgery went well! Take care!😁
Absolutely my favorite machining channel on youtube! I really enjoy your way of planning and execution as well as your kind of humor!
Concerning the plate in front of the grinder: I would probably add another hole in the plate at the center of the pully for the z-axis. That way you'll be able to adjust the bearing tension from outside without opening the whole assembly again. You can print a TPU plug for it in order to keep the swarf out. Keep up the good work!
I thought about that while editing. A hole there would make things a lot easier.
Yay! Another video!
Nicely done. Was waiting an older video the other day. And wow you look so much better now good job
Glad to see you back!
Clean works!!
Love the nut plates!
Good to see you and this video had a number of very interesting aspects. Thank you.
What a great video, you’re a very clever bloke. Personally I think it would look better if the aluminium plate at the front was painted in the same colour as the surface grinder. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
Enjoyed…great discussion/build
Great video. Hope you are feeling good.
Loving the new focus concept!
I didn't even notice the focus until he said something. But my glasses are about 4 years out of date so I'm not sure I'm qualified to comment on it - especially mid video.
Anyways, like I said- if he didn't point it out, I wouldn't have noticed it one way or the other. I'm replying under your comment because you appear to be the only other person that saw the focus thing.
I'd be putting washers on the nema mounts. Steel round heads on aluminium is not great due to the high pressure over an abbreviated area due to the slot.
The video is 4K, so you should be able to zoom in and see the washers.
Thank you, really enjoy your videos with CAD, Fusion360. Best regards, Annie
turn your parting tool upsidedown and run in reverse, like you were turning brass. I do the same for threading too. No more chatter. When it deflects, this way it reduces load on the tool, rather than biting into the part deeper
Totally agree. I use a rear tool-post as my Myford has a threaded spindle.
Those chips look beautiful in 4k. Love your humility.
Thanks
Thanks!
Impressive
33:44 I see you have the steel toe workshop slippers on James, are these going to be merch ? 🙂
Fabulous as always, thanks.
Popcorn time!🤩
Just to be pedantic, you could scrape off the paint you have covered with the new adapter for the height adjustment. Just so you keep things coplanar ? Nice build, clean and detailed, as always. I love the design parts, and i concur it is more time efficient to outsource your parts. Even better when it's free.
Hmm... I did the same type of retrofit on my B&S 618. Placing motors and couplings on the front was a huge mistake for my workflow. I lost access to the handwheels, making everything a little harder for quick, dirty passes. If you lose access to manual spindle height, a 5-10 millionths scale is nice to have. Sparking out still leaves a 1-4 microns of height difference for grinders with light spindle assemblies (< 200lbs) when grinding hardened alloys or ceramics. You can feel the spindle raise on the manual handle, it feels like backlash.
I'm redesigning my mod as I write this, placing motors in the back of the grinder, using speed reducers, and a servo engagement clutch for each access and heidenhain scales on y and z axis.
I thought about that. My current plan is to have an encoder wheel for manual operation, but you may be correct that I'll miss having the wheels. I certainly missed them when I converted my G0704 mill.
I REALLY enjoy your videos. Have you considered adding simple drip edge covers above the X&Z axis motors to help keep cutting fluid out? Just a thought. Thanks again for these great videos. F.C.
I hadn't really planned that far yet. :)
If you use a higher depth of field you can turn of autofocus.
From Edwards General Photography.
Keep focus on the chips; they tell a story 🙃
10:35 another thing with a er32 holder it’s super handy for mounting little boring bars depending how your lathe is. on the machine I was using the top slide stuck out further than a tool holder would so to clear the slide the little bars had to be set up all the way at the end of a holder with lots of stick out but the ER collets added that extra inch or so while still being ridge in comparison.
Oh, interesting. I didn't think of that.
nice!
I have so many plans to automate many of my machines.
But watching someone else automate their machines seems to be as far as I get.
Cut off with a caebide insert parting blade, you really want a trickle of coolant in there. It makes a day and night difference to running dry or trying to get oil there with a brush. Been parting off 130 mm diameter stuff with no problems, but if for some reason the trickle of coolant stops, it jams the chips or I can feel it starting to rub almost immediately even in small stuff.
Yeah, I don't have flood coolant on this machine. I do have a misting system; I might try it. It would be nice to have another hand free.
Parting,.. i had the same issue with my smithy 1340 lathe. i would blow up parting tools all the time. to remedy this i moved the tool about half t he thickness of the tool to the left and cut about 1/2 way to the parting line then position the tool for the part and go at it. it takes more time and waste some material and depending on the hardness it does have some deflection but it did stop blowing up my carbide …
If you rotate the motor 45 degrees the belt would just go around the 4th spacer. Just a thought, Nice work!
Yeah, I thought about that. There's a USB connector on the back of the motor that needs to line up with the gap between the saddle and the frame so I can get a right-angle programming cable on it. I didn't think to mention that in the video.
I believe as a machinist, you must be comfortable living in that metric and standard mode of world.
As a machinist I wish the world would just settle on metric. I'm tired of conversions that introduce error and the whole 16ths/32nds/64ths is crap.
I wonder if you had oriented the mounting holes for the last motor at 45’ off vertical, would it have allowed the belt to clear? Also, off topic; you mentioned in a previous video that you used to be a woodworker but had moved on to metalworking/machining and sold those tools. I’m a woodworker that would also love to do machining if only for a lack of space in my small shop. However, I’d hate to drop one for the other. Question; do you ever find yourself wanting to get back into woodworking?
Great to see you again. Could you have rotated the motor at 33:30 45* so all 4 spacers could have been used and given clearance to the belt?
Maybe? There is a USB connector on the back of the motor that needs to line up with the gap between the saddle and the frame so I can get a programming cable on it, and rotating the motor makes this hard to do without risking striking the frame at full travel with either the motor heat sink or the right angle micro USB cable.
When you are making a sketch in Fusion to export something like the bridge plate as a DXF, you can actually skip creating a projection and immediately tell it to finish. If the features are all continuous and on the same plane, they will be shown in the DXF. You only need to project geometry that is not on the sketch plane or not continuous to the area you clicked on when you created the sketch. Not a huge time saver, but it can all add up.
I turned off the auto-projection feature in my Fusion 360 settings because creating all of the extra geometry often creates multiple profiles that I then have to select for extrusion later.
Parting issues: It looks like you have an angled insert to not leave a nub on the part. Tried them myself and found it tends to cause the tool to deflect (at least on a lathe this size or smaller) and then get stuck in the part....and still leaves a nub. The other thing that might help is raising the tool a smidge (make sure it's an imperial or metric 'smidge' as suits your lathe!). You may have enough flex that, under load, the tip of the tool is going below centreline and digging in...which as you've found, usually results in colourful language and dodging flying fragments of parting tool. I've had the holder shatter as well as the insert...which is even more annoying.
The other thing worth doing (at this size of lathe) is switching to an aluminium profile MGGN insert. Night and day better as it has a sharper tip and cuts rather than ploughs - I don't think we have the rigidity or power to plough through.
I have been honing my steel inserts to a keen edge with a diamond. It helps. I haven't tried aluminum inserts specifically.
Whenever I make a mistake on a part I always say, “Well I need to pay attention more.” or “Now I know for next time to mark the side I want to machine.” I only pay attention more for like an hour or two and then it’s back to normal, haha
I reckon you should be investing large chunks of cash in the replacement of that sorry-looking brush which is used for applying coolant/oil to the job surface. Otherwise, fascinating video. Happy New Year James!
Sooner or later I'm going to drop it in the chip pan anyway.
29:45 rumor has it that you can yell "focus you FUCK" at the camera, and sometimes it focuses on the right thing.
Might not work for all cameras though, so results might vary.
This camera has a feature where the focus ring will temporarily change the auto focus point, so when I manually focused, I didn't notice that it had reverted to autofocus when I powered it off. New camera learning curve.
Nice to see you back on my Sunday morning viewing . Another great video. Is your eventual aim for full automation to a design specification measurement of a part.
Not really. Since the wheel wears, that's a tall order. I started out just wanting to stop cranking X, but Robin Renzetti convinced me that there's a lot of benefit to automating the other axes.
So glad youre back and doing well. This is a great project in the making. Btw these longer videos are perfect!
all great stories start in the tub according to archimedes
I thought the connector was on the back side of the motor, I just seen it on the end plate.
Awesome job. Did you think of making the top of the motor plate match the belt cover on the x axis to possibly keep swarf out of the belt and pulleys for that axis?
Looks good. It is nice that the particular tool seems to lend itself to easily mount the motors. Did you choose that model because of this?
@clough42 As always, an outstanding project and excellent presentation! Out of curiosity, what tap lube were you using on the aluminum?
A9
I'm just spit-balling here but could you rotate your Z Axis hole placements by 90° to (12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock) which would then allow you to use all 4 screws & standoffs on the motor? Then the 4th standoff would be encompassed by the drive belt and still allow full adjustable and rigidity? Just a thought... As always great planning and execution, thx.
I didn't mention that the motor is positioned where it is to allow access to the USB programming connector on the back of the motor between the saddle and the base.
LOL!!! Love T.O.T.
Hey... that's the face I make when I think too!
Are those "Shop Certified safety" Slippers I noticed you waring??? Wouldn't want you to drop something and be down for the start of 2024... hehe ... Glad you are doing better ... Thanks for sharing ... Stay safe and get well ...
Nice as usual, James, glad you’re doing well. Just curious, how are you going to tune the 2 front motors with the usb sockets in the rear?
I belive I have searched the whole internet, how do you pan around like that in Fusion?? You can Zoom and roatate in all axis in the same time. Thx in advice!
I use a SpaceMouse. Link in description.
I wonder DRO actually functional on surface grinder since the wheel is constantly getting smaller and dressed.
Love all your work , and your Craftsmanship awesome!
But i dont understand why u send parts out to be cut else where.
Why not use your plasma table and then the mill to finish the parts.
We wanna see you design and make the parts with your tools!
Id really like your videos even more !
Please consider 😊
Really neat video, thank you. Possibly silly question, when you're tapping the spacers from both ends towards the center is there any concern the threads would be out of phase when they meet in the middle? That seems like it might be an issue but I don't know how serious it would be.
Not in this application. He is using two sets of screws - one from each end. Half the standoff fastens the motor to the standoff and the other half fastens the standoff to the mounting plate.
To visualize this better, instead of thinking one piece with one threaded hole, imagine two pieces each with a threaded hole but glued together. The threads only need to be oriented to the work they are doing. So in this case, while it us a single goal, each end is doing a separate job to accommodate it.
If it was a single screw or bolt going all the way through the standoff, the concern would be there. But because it is essentially one piece performing two functions, that concern can be ignored.
I hope that did not confuse you.
I assume they will be out of phase, but I'm not using the threads in the very center, so I'm fine with it.
Do you plan on doing a conversational style programming? Or will you write code for every job?
The large casing does not follow the plate. Probably he should print a strip along the edge in the shape of which will cover this gap.
Correct. I hadn't modeled the belts or covers yet when I sent the DXF file off to SendCutSend. I realized too late that there was going to be a gap.
Why do you use send-cut-send when you have a plasma table on the other side of the room? Just don't want to deal with sourcing/handling the material or what?
Are those drill sizes for the metric threads some weird imperial drill sizes or where are they coming from?
The hole sizes are automatically generated by the Fusion 360 hole tool when selecting a thread profile.
Can I ask why you have been choosing to use send cut send lately instead of your plasma cutter? Is it simply a cost vs convenience thing?
He actually covered that in his previous video, he has a couple reasons.
What brand of servo motors did you use?
I can't find part 1 :( Was that a Patron's only video?
th-cam.com/video/rwB277NXfbk/w-d-xo.html
Is it possible to fit a rear tool-post to your Grizzly lathe to carry a parting tool? Before fitting one to my Myford Super 7 parting was an operation I dreaded. Since fitting one it's an operation I can carry out completely stress free.
The cross slide doesn't have T slots on this model, nor can you run it in reverse, due to the threaded spindle. I've been playing with parting since this video and discovered some things that help considerably.
@@Clough42 My Myford cannot be run in reverse with any tool load, again, due to the threaded spindle. Unfortunately the absence of T slots is probably a deal breaker. I use my rear tool-post with the lathe running in the normal direction but with parting tool inverted. The natural servo action of the flex of the lathe virtually eliminates dig-ins by reducing the cut as the load is applied IYKWIM..
where do you get the timing pulleys form?
McMaster maybe?
Would a 45deg rotation on the Y axis allow for the spacer to sit between the belt and thus allow for 4 fixing points?
It would, but it would also block the USB connector on the back of the motor that I will need for tuning.
This is still an acme screw machine? Do you have an anti backlash strategy?
Auto focus is often hit or miss. You never know what it will focus on.
I only use it when I'm in front of the camera, and the Sony eye tracking has been excellent for that. Otherwise, I (intend to) focus everything manually.
So if someone doesn't do CAD, their project can't be great?
any reason not to form tap those aluminum plates?
Nope. That would work well, I would think.
I was 15 when we metrified and I have spent 40 years as a Mech Eng in metric. My home lathes have all been imperial. This results in combining measurement systems in conversation all the time. I can do most metric conversions in my head. The only thing I cant understand is the insistance of Yanks in useing fractions. That is a middle ages system that died with the calculator.
Can you tell what are the total costs of the ordered parts?
I try not to talk about pricing, just because videos and comments live forever, and the information will be out of date rapidly. You can easily go to the web site, upload a DXF and play with the parameters to see the pricing.
I don't know bud, give us an hour or 2 long video of you sitting there thinking. I'm sure someone will mention in the comments exactly how compelling it is.
That could be arranged.
Spot autofocus, if you have that option.
Don't dis the TOT. The gods of machining will relegate you to perpetual welding and resurfacing the error.