Thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos, really helpful. I suspect that I need to have my module reprogrammed just like you finally had to do. Hoping the dealer won’t charge me hours and hours of labor for it
Hi Jack, I had a similar problem with the liftgate but I got lucky and found that when I put power (via a jumper 12volt source) to the strut motor nothing happened. Next checked resistance on a multimeter and found an open circuit. So I went with a new strut/motor and that solved my problem, measured the resistance on the new strut at the dealer before I took possession and it measured 45ohms, so I knew I had the solution. During my investigation, I considered buying a scanner but found out that MB doesn't permit access to certain coding for modules, only the dealer can access. When you buy a scanner, no matter how high end it is they all go through a server of the particular scanner manufacturer which in turn has to access MB server. That is where MB blocks certain coding or reprogramming of modules happens. Glad you finally got it straightened out. 2014 ML350 gas, 4 matic.
My motor (inside the right hand strut?) is working intermittently and and making a lot of noise, but its deffo getting power. MB have quoted £600 to fix but I can pick up a new aftermarket strut on ebay for £160 - I cant find a video which shows how to physically remove the right hand strut. Any pointers?
@@nickscott1039 It's very easy to remove & replace the strut/s. There is a circlip on each end. Take a small screw driver and Gently lift the clip, it is spring loaded so while lifting it pull the strut away toward you as you stand to the side. If you look at the replacement strut you will see what I mean. The motorized strut needs to be unplugged from the controller which is behind the panel inside the near the rear wheel. Hope this helps.
I'm sorry but I'm feeling a number of different things after s Watching your video. I'm sentimental because your need to understand - and then actually test - every circuit before moving on to what is most likely the problem, is so much like my father that I can't help but be reminiscent. Trying to work with him was an incredibly frustrating and LONG experience - so methodical he was! I am feeling impatient because I've come here for answers. I need them now. And lastly, I'm feeling frankly, mind blown! Tell me I didn't just spend 15 minutes watching you go thru all of that, only to have you take it to the dealership to fix it in the end BECAUSE YOU DIDNT KNOW HOW!?
I had the same tail gate issues on 2012 W166 in US back in 2018. I took it to a local mechanic and he could not fix. He said it had to be done by the dealer since there was some coding involved. I think it was close to $1500 to fix for a SUV which was barely 5 years old. Shame on MB and it’s dealers for ripping off people!!!
Thanks for sharing the detailed video. Havent started probing yet but disappointed that even buying another module isnt a simple plug and play affair. Looks like ill have to book it in with a local dealer. Can i ask which dealer you went to in Victoria? Had a bad experience with Doncaster on my last service but have previously serviced through Berwick
Hi Ian - I use 3 Point Motors in Fairfield. I think it was around $350 to scan and program it to the car, which I'm sure took around 5 minutes! I got the strut and ECU secondhand from Adelaide. Let me know how you go.
@@jackpwc01 thanks I've resided to the fact it'll probably cost me$1500+ to fix via the stealership. Independents quote $120 to diagnose. Was going to just spend $60 on a manual strut and make the boot manual like the South African model. But now looking at trading in the car as I can see it becoming a money pit. Already had AdBlue problems last time that cost a bit to replace along with discs and pads. Back to cheaper non luxury cars with cheaper running costs
I have the exact same set up. The issue I am having is at 3:15 time stamp . Everything is operating appropriately once it’s manually opened the latch even locks electronically when I push it it just won’t unlock…?? Any ideas? Once I crack it open manually I can use the key fob and it will open but it just doesn’t want to unlock and I am loosing my mind haha I haven’t been able to use the rear lift-gate in months and we have a 1 year old so his stroller has been sitting on the leather seats and I’m loosing my mind even more 😭 let me know if you have any ideas please and thank you .
Hi Aussie Jack. Would you please let me know where the liftgate actuator wires plug into the blue connector? My alternator died in my 2013 ML550 250 miles from home and was towed to the MB dealer. The alternator was replaced ($3K) but when I arrived at home discovered the tailgate does not operate! I removed the cargo panel and found the mechanic removed 3 wires from the blue connector the Green, Yellow and Brown. I hope if I can reinstall these wires into their original location in the connector, the actuator may just work again. I put power to the red and black wires and found the actuator does move.
Hi, I don't have a good picture of the connector. I'm a bit concerned that your mechanic would have removed the wires - why would he do that? They will be the signal wires from the motor such as the hall effect sensors. Anyway, if you look at the blue connector from the back, the wires go like this: Left: Black Red Middle: Green Yellow Blank Blue Brown Right Orange Grey Blank Blank Blank
@@jackpwc01 Hi Jack, Thanks for your reply. The car alternator died 250 miles from home. The MB dealer in Syracuse NY took almost 2 weeks to repair. I picked up the car last week, paid the dealer $3K for a remanufactured alternator repair, $1600 for the part and 6.2 hours labor and drove the 4 hours home. I believe someone manhandled the tailgate while the battery was dead and broke the actuator mounting, then when the electrical power was restored, the actuator would not shut off. The MB mechanic must have tried to disarm the actuator by pulling these wires from the connector. The service manager deigned ruining my liftgate but said he would "make it right" whatever that means. I'm appalled by the dishonesty of this MB dealer trying to hide a deliberate sabotage of my car! I was able to get the correct pin out from my local MB dealer but unfortunately the actuator will not operate. I tested the actuator by putting 12V directly to the black and red pins and the actuator moves, I'm guessing the internal switches may be whacked? My next step was to purchase a replacement actuator on Ebay, (non-OEM) and give that a try, if not maybe now it is the controller like your situation? I need to wait over 2 weeks for an appointment at my local dealer, perhaps once it is scanned, an electronic handshake will make the actuator work again. The latch and buttons work OK just the actuator is now inoperative.
Gee I would not be impressed with that! The alternator is available as an aftermarket part for ~$300-$500. Examples here: spareto.com/oe/a6421540402 www.ebay.com.au/itm/154743687741 www.amazon.com.au/439546-Valeo-Alternateur/dp/B00CVZMUEG Changing it is not 6 hours work: th-cam.com/video/fV4QtpNHKBU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=DrewFixIt In my video on the engine mount, a commenter said it took him 2 hours. th-cam.com/video/yKMWxOfAzZY/w-d-xo.html That doesn't really make sense about why you would remove wires from the connector to open the tailgate - you would need to have opened it to access them, and it is a lot of work. If I was you I would get the local dealer to fix it, pay the bill, get some quotes from other dealers for the Alternator replacement, and then lawyer up. You could also try writing to MB USA.
@@jackpwc01 Hi jack, was able to find a donor controller with the same hardware and software number on the sticker. I attached the two connectors temporarily and IT WORKED! I removed the old controller from the mount, mounted the new donor controller plugged in the connectors and NOTHING! I believe I may have put a fault code in the new donor controller! must have been lucky hooking this up the first time and unlucky unplugging it to install and mount correctly. what a mess, I wonder if my local shop will be able to remove the fault from either of these two controllers and make the actuator operational. I am very reluctant to visit the MB dealer again
All is good. Took to my indy shop the tech there is very familiar with MB. He connected is diagnostic tool and could not see the donor controller, plugged the original in and cleared the fault codes and all is good ad working as usual. Took 1/2 hour and $80 and I'm happy again. Thank you for your help with the connector pin out. I have no idea why the MB dealer dug into this and then left me with this mess but thats what happens when you break down 250 miles from home.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos, really helpful. I suspect that I need to have my module reprogrammed just like you finally had to do. Hoping the dealer won’t charge me hours and hours of labor for it
Hi Jack, I had a similar problem with the liftgate but I got lucky and found that when I put power (via a jumper 12volt source) to the strut motor nothing happened. Next checked resistance on a multimeter and found an open circuit. So I went with a new strut/motor and that solved my problem, measured the resistance on the new strut at the dealer before I took possession and it measured 45ohms, so I knew I had the solution. During my investigation, I considered buying a scanner but found out that MB doesn't permit access to certain coding for modules, only the dealer can access. When you buy a scanner, no matter how high end it is they all go through a server of the particular scanner manufacturer which in turn has to access MB server. That is where MB blocks certain coding or reprogramming of modules happens. Glad you finally got it straightened out. 2014 ML350 gas, 4 matic.
My motor (inside the right hand strut?) is working intermittently and and making a lot of noise, but its deffo getting power. MB have quoted £600 to fix but I can pick up a new aftermarket strut on ebay for £160 - I cant find a video which shows how to physically remove the right hand strut. Any pointers?
@@nickscott1039 It's very easy to remove & replace the strut/s. There is a circlip on each end. Take a small screw driver and Gently lift the clip, it is spring loaded so while lifting it pull the strut away toward you as you stand to the side. If you look at the replacement strut you will see what I mean. The motorized strut needs to be unplugged from the controller which is behind the panel inside the near the rear wheel. Hope this helps.
@@nickscott1039 see my reply above
I'm sorry but I'm feeling a number of different things after s
Watching your video. I'm sentimental because your need to understand - and then actually test - every circuit before moving on to what is most likely the problem, is so much like my father that I can't help but be reminiscent. Trying to work with him was an incredibly frustrating and LONG experience - so methodical he was!
I am feeling impatient because I've come here for answers. I need them now. And lastly, I'm feeling frankly, mind blown! Tell me I didn't just spend 15 minutes watching you go thru all of that, only to have you take it to the dealership to fix it in the end BECAUSE YOU DIDNT KNOW HOW!?
I had the same tail gate issues on 2012 W166 in US back in 2018. I took it to a local mechanic and he could not fix. He said it had to be done by the dealer since there was some coding involved. I think it was close to $1500 to fix for a SUV which was barely 5 years old. Shame on MB and it’s dealers for ripping off people!!!
Thanks for sharing the detailed video. Havent started probing yet but disappointed that even buying another module isnt a simple plug and play affair. Looks like ill have to book it in with a local dealer. Can i ask which dealer you went to in Victoria? Had a bad experience with Doncaster on my last service but have previously serviced through Berwick
Hi Ian - I use 3 Point Motors in Fairfield. I think it was around $350 to scan and program it to the car, which I'm sure took around 5 minutes! I got the strut and ECU secondhand from Adelaide.
Let me know how you go.
@@jackpwc01 thanks I've resided to the fact it'll probably cost me$1500+ to fix via the stealership. Independents quote $120 to diagnose. Was going to just spend $60 on a manual strut and make the boot manual like the South African model. But now looking at trading in the car as I can see it becoming a money pit. Already had AdBlue problems last time that cost a bit to replace along with discs and pads. Back to cheaper non luxury cars with cheaper running costs
I have the exact same set up. The issue I am having is at 3:15 time stamp . Everything is operating appropriately once it’s manually opened the latch even locks electronically when I push it it just won’t unlock…?? Any ideas?
Once I crack it open manually I can use the key fob and it will open but it just doesn’t want to unlock and I am loosing my mind haha I haven’t been able to use the rear lift-gate in months and we have a 1 year old so his stroller has been sitting on the leather seats and I’m loosing my mind even more 😭 let me know if you have any ideas please and thank you .
Hi, thanks for the question. can you describe what is working and what is not? I could not quite get it from your message.
Hi Aussie Jack. Would you please let me know where the liftgate actuator wires plug into the blue connector? My alternator died in my 2013 ML550 250 miles from home and was towed to the MB dealer. The alternator was replaced ($3K) but when I arrived at home discovered the tailgate does not operate! I removed the cargo panel and found the mechanic removed 3 wires from the blue connector the Green, Yellow and Brown. I hope if I can reinstall these wires into their original location in the connector, the actuator may just work again. I put power to the red and black wires and found the actuator does move.
Hi,
I don't have a good picture of the connector. I'm a bit concerned that your mechanic would have removed the wires - why would he do that? They will be the signal wires from the motor such as the hall effect sensors.
Anyway, if you look at the blue connector from the back, the wires go like this:
Left:
Black
Red
Middle:
Green
Yellow
Blank
Blue
Brown
Right
Orange
Grey
Blank
Blank
Blank
@@jackpwc01 Hi Jack, Thanks for your reply. The car alternator died 250 miles from home. The MB dealer in Syracuse NY took almost 2 weeks to repair. I picked up the car last week, paid the dealer $3K for a remanufactured alternator repair, $1600 for the part and 6.2 hours labor and drove the 4 hours home. I believe someone manhandled the tailgate while the battery was dead and broke the actuator mounting, then when the electrical power was restored, the actuator would not shut off. The MB mechanic must have tried to disarm the actuator by pulling these wires from the connector. The service manager deigned ruining my liftgate but said he would "make it right" whatever that means. I'm appalled by the dishonesty of this MB dealer trying to hide a deliberate sabotage of my car! I was able to get the correct pin out from my local MB dealer but unfortunately the actuator will not operate. I tested the actuator by putting 12V directly to the black and red pins and the actuator moves, I'm guessing the internal switches may be whacked? My next step was to purchase a replacement actuator on Ebay, (non-OEM) and give that a try, if not maybe now it is the controller like your situation? I need to wait over 2 weeks for an appointment at my local dealer, perhaps once it is scanned, an electronic handshake will make the actuator work again. The latch and buttons work OK just the actuator is now inoperative.
Gee I would not be impressed with that! The alternator is available as an aftermarket part for ~$300-$500.
Examples here:
spareto.com/oe/a6421540402
www.ebay.com.au/itm/154743687741
www.amazon.com.au/439546-Valeo-Alternateur/dp/B00CVZMUEG
Changing it is not 6 hours work:
th-cam.com/video/fV4QtpNHKBU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=DrewFixIt
In my video on the engine mount, a commenter said it took him 2 hours.
th-cam.com/video/yKMWxOfAzZY/w-d-xo.html
That doesn't really make sense about why you would remove wires from the connector to open the tailgate - you would need to have opened it to access them, and it is a lot of work.
If I was you I would get the local dealer to fix it, pay the bill, get some quotes from other dealers for the Alternator replacement, and then lawyer up. You could also try writing to MB USA.
@@jackpwc01 Hi jack, was able to find a donor controller with the same hardware and software number on the sticker. I attached the two connectors temporarily and IT WORKED! I removed the old controller from the mount, mounted the new donor controller plugged in the connectors and NOTHING! I believe I may have put a fault code in the new donor controller! must have been lucky hooking this up the first time and unlucky unplugging it to install and mount correctly. what a mess, I wonder if my local shop will be able to remove the fault from either of these two controllers and make the actuator operational. I am very reluctant to visit the MB dealer again
All is good. Took to my indy shop the tech there is very familiar with MB. He connected is diagnostic tool and could not see the donor controller, plugged the original in and cleared the fault codes and all is good ad working as usual. Took 1/2 hour and $80 and I'm happy again. Thank you for your help with the connector pin out. I have no idea why the MB dealer dug into this and then left me with this mess but thats what happens when you break down 250 miles from home.
HKS coding could be done nowadays via a cheap Launch Creader scanner, including the tailgate module.