For height ranges, it's often preferable to use the cut tool to split it into parts, and select a color for each part. This gets around some of the bugs associated with the paint tool. I also find it easier to be more precise by directly entering cut heights on instead of "eyeballing" it with the paint tool.
I'm just starting out with my X1C. So far so good. These shorter videos on the software are great. Well produced, easy to digest, the perfect length. Thanks!
Id love to see the height range option have a layer choice option, so you dont have to rely on painting at all, just one colour between layer 1 & 20, and another between 21 & 40 for example. This must be easy option for them to add, you can do similar if you didnt have AMS and inserted pauses.
So question for you. Why is the prime tower enabled if there are only two filament changes? Wouldn't it make more sense that the print start with the tan color and at the correct layer change to black and simply purge the nozzle via the poop shoot?
There is a VERY detailed explanation (with images) on Bambu Lab Wiki. Much better than any short answer you may receive. In real life, you can create a test print with and without the PT and compare the quality of the filament transition in the 3d model.
Yes correct. There are definitely other settings to test with. But like mentioned by @michaels3003 it is always best to test the purge into model setting on your particular model. These setting fell out side of the scope and I wanted to make this video short and to the point.
You did. This is a bucket-like model (open from the top). In the first method, only the lower outside was "painted." This method, in theory, allows different colors outside and inside. Most of the time, it is not worth the effort (the printing time).
Extremely helpful, as your videos always are. Thank you for this!
Glad I was able to help out! You're very welcome.
Finally found out hiw to use the layer line paint tool for once!
For height ranges, it's often preferable to use the cut tool to split it into parts, and select a color for each part. This gets around some of the bugs associated with the paint tool. I also find it easier to be more precise by directly entering cut heights on instead of "eyeballing" it with the paint tool.
You could definitely do that, for this model I would not want to glue it back after printing separately.
@bambamprint maybe he meant that after cutting and changing the color you reassemble them together.
As a newbie, Thank you.
No problem, that is what my channel is here for! I am glad I was able to help you. Thank you for the support!
Great job! Short and to the point!
Glad it was helpful! Happy to have you here, and thanks for the support!
I'm just starting out with my X1C. So far so good. These shorter videos on the software are great. Well produced, easy to digest, the perfect length. Thanks!
You're welcome. I am glad you enjoyed it. Exactly what I was shooting for! Have a great day and thanks for the support!
@@lefthandedwoodworks recently got a P1S and totally agree, these videos are super helpful.
thx nick!
You're welcome! thank you for the support!
Id love to see the height range option have a layer choice option, so you dont have to rely on painting at all, just one colour between layer 1 & 20, and another between 21 & 40 for example. This must be easy option for them to add, you can do similar if you didnt have AMS and inserted pauses.
This is awesome
Thanks I appreciate the support! Have a great day!
Good job
thanks alot! great video
You're welcome! Thank you for the support and Sub!
Great thank you
You're very welcome. Glad it was helpful!
So question for you. Why is the prime tower enabled if there are only two filament changes? Wouldn't it make more sense that the print start with the tan color and at the correct layer change to black and simply purge the nozzle via the poop shoot?
There is a VERY detailed explanation (with images) on Bambu Lab Wiki. Much better than any short answer you may receive.
In real life, you can create a test print with and without the PT and compare the quality of the filament transition in the 3d model.
Yes correct. There are definitely other settings to test with. But like mentioned by @michaels3003 it is always best to test the purge into model setting on your particular model. These setting fell out side of the scope and I wanted to make this video short and to the point.
Shouldn’t you only need one colour change? Or have I missed something?
You did. This is a bucket-like model (open from the top). In the first method, only the lower outside was "painted." This method, in theory, allows different colors outside and inside. Most of the time, it is not worth the effort (the printing time).
Yes, it’s weird. I don’t use Bambu Studio. But the same example on OrcaSlicer shows only one filament change, not two.
@paulorainho73, you have his model?
🤯