I installed afr sensors on each bank and have gages in the dash. Makes tuning a breeze. Remember a tiny bit rich is cheap insurance to not melt pistons! Lovin' it!
Tom You need to learn the 45 different " off color Italian hand gestures " for working on those Weber's. The emulsion tube are the real problem with the design. A small snake camera camera makes the color tune much easier. That stupid mirror system is not too hard to get your head into see the color. I use the both O2 sensors and the color tune on my test bench . you are on the right path.
Ha ha, that's funny about Italian gestures. To make it worse mine are made in Spain! I tried my boroscope camera with the color tune and the camera shut off. Something to do with EMI? So I ended up with my regular inspection mirror instead of the contraption it comes with. I love the aem o2 guage! Definitely, getting better!
Huge improvement. Nice job. Perfect timing on the video (and car) just removed the covers to adjust mine today. You answered a lot of questions for me. Thanks.
Tom excellent video and content. I have zero knowledge really on tuning engines so watching this was super educational. Fabricating your part worked out great and I didn't forget to like...ha ha ha!
Ooh, triple side draft webers! For sure get those 😄. They will keep you busy for hours, ha ha. I highly recommend the aem wideband guage! It's like a crystal ball for your engine!
I agree, but a multimeter tests at a very low voltage. If the wire insulation is old and cracked the energy will arc out before it gets to the spark plug. A resistance test measures the wire core which is also a good test, however the insulation usually fails before the core does.
Nice work and thanks for sharing, love the build. Question... did you ever pull plugs and "read" them. Im no expert, but was wondering if you did and could you share those results.
Thanks Damon. I did see that the plugs were black when I removed them. This is another data point that the engine is still running rich. My opinion is the O2 sensor and color tune are more effective to determine rich/lean.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Sorry... I meant checking new plugs you installed after changing the jetting. Not the ones you replaced. Again, I'm no expert... I've been shown how to determine three things from the plugs; heat range, timing, and fueling.
Oh, I see. I'll take a look again after several miles. My understanding is that with today's fuels it makes reading colors more difficult. I'm not exactly sure why.
G'day, I've been following your videos as to gain more knowledge about tuning my dual 40mm webers on my 63 beetle. And I'm slowly getting there. Q. When you tig welded the carburettor linkage, did you sleeve it, or will the but weld stand up. With the wideband gauge you mentioned I've just ordered a dual one. It cost a bit but the plan is to have one read-out for each bank at the same time. So thanks for sharing the knowledge ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Hi there. I'm glad you are making progress on your tuning. Don't forget the distributor advance off idle also plays a big role with driveability. The linkage is butt welded without a sleeve. It's probably an inch or more of welding since the diameter is pretty big. I highly doubt it will fail, but sleeving can't hurt if you have the right size to go inside there. Good choice on dual O2 sensors. That makes it much easier.
HELP!! I removed the structures , venturies stacks inside the bodies and I slightly sanded the inside, now rpms don’t go down right away, DID I RUIN MY CARBS? Solex 40 splits.
Hi, I accelerate ok on my 69 912, but the rpms try to stay high and don’t go down right away, what could it be, I cleaned the carbs, split shaft, did I make a mistake?
Yep check it with a timing light as the idle hangs up high. My guess is you will see the advance is still high while the carbs are closed. I prefer the solid shaft Solexs. My 356 engine has split shaft carbs converted to solid shaft by carb rescue. The later split shaft carbs have more progression holes and are slightly better. Best of both worlds I guess.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I prefer single shaft, splits don’t always operate at the same time if you have minuscule play, I am having problems with my 69 split carbs so I am going single.
Eesh; those tyres look hazardous, with all those cracks... Before blaming the carbs, check the idle screws. Better running a bit too rich, than too lean. I'll probably fix the stuttering under 2000 revs. Everything under 4% CO with old cars is ok. Don't be too neat or perfect with old cars. Running rich under acceleration is normal, look at the values at constant speed.
The tires are very old and trash. No high speed runs for me yet on these tires. I agree that carbs are pretty crude and difficult to get an even AFR across the board. The techniques I'm showing give insight into what's happening so I can adjust for the best overall and safe setup. Nothing wrong with webers and I'm not trying to beat a landspeed record or push the head temps to the limit.
Who else tunes an engine with a welder and hammer? Don't forget to like😄
I installed afr sensors on each bank and have gages in the dash. Makes tuning a breeze. Remember a tiny bit rich is cheap insurance to not melt pistons! Lovin' it!
No melting Pistons is my goal too. What afr are you targeting at wot? I'm currently at around 11.5 from about 4k and up.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Yep 11.5 .
the hose on the plugs is gold. thx
A true analog Porsche! Awesome stuff 👍
Yes! After I'm done tuning I'm going to remove that digital air fuel guage. No one will ever know how I got it to run so well, ha ha.
I love the fact that no computer was necessary to set the tune. Looking forward to part 2.
Part 2 has a computer...
Just binge watched your whole 911 playlist in the last week, great work on an amazing car. Thanks
Oh wow! That must of been a marathon! I took it out for a sunset drive tonight and it was pure delight!
This is such an interesting channel for real word Porsche enthusiasts
Good video. I am on the hunt for a color tune now.
G4074 is the 14mm one for porsche
Man i pulled the spark plug wire like you did in the video and got a huge shock from 69' 912! 😅
Dang sorry, you gotta loosen it first when it's not running.
Tom You need to learn the 45 different " off color Italian hand gestures " for working on those Weber's. The emulsion tube are the real problem with the design. A small snake camera camera makes the color tune much easier. That stupid mirror system is not too hard to get your head into see the color. I use the both O2 sensors and the color tune on my test bench . you are on the right path.
Ha ha, that's funny about Italian gestures. To make it worse mine are made in Spain!
I tried my boroscope camera with the color tune and the camera shut off. Something to do with EMI? So I ended up with my regular inspection mirror instead of the contraption it comes with.
I love the aem o2 guage! Definitely, getting better!
Great Video! Thanks Tom.
Great video. I will definitely be book marking this for later tuning reference.
Cool, I hope to do a follow up video with all the lessons learned too.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto That would be great.
last year for 912 was 69. 1976 was the next one year model. got it.
Huge improvement. Nice job. Perfect timing on the video (and car) just removed the covers to adjust mine today. You answered a lot of questions for me. Thanks.
It's running so much better now. No more anxiety at stop lights! I hope every goes well with your tune up too
Tom excellent video and content. I have zero knowledge really on tuning engines so watching this was super educational. Fabricating your part worked out great and I didn't forget to like...ha ha ha!
Thanks for the like Shane! I'm so happy with how well this engine is running now. I took it for a spin tonight and it's much more fun to drive.
Great video Tom. Thanks for the effort to document all your steps! 👍👍
Thanks, I'm so happy that it's running better
Wow, great video!! Lots of great information.
I think I might add that AFR gauge to my Jag. I have twin ZS carbs and I think that would really help tuning. Saving up for triple side draft Webers!
Ooh, triple side draft webers! For sure get those 😄. They will keep you busy for hours, ha ha. I highly recommend the aem wideband guage! It's like a crystal ball for your engine!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Thanks for that heads up. I see a nice one at Summit Racing.
I got mine on Amazon. Should be about $160 with the sensor.
Best way to check wire quality is to measure their resistance.
I agree, but a multimeter tests at a very low voltage. If the wire insulation is old and cracked the energy will arc out before it gets to the spark plug.
A resistance test measures the wire core which is also a good test, however the insulation usually fails before the core does.
At the end of these test what was did you end up with jetting combination. ✌️
Isn't it listed at the end of the video or description?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto
Yep. Found it.
Nice a 911-4
Yeah, that's right😀
Do you recall what size the Emulsion Tubes are... F7 ... F11 ??
I have both but using F7 now. Even better!
Nice work and thanks for sharing, love the build. Question... did you ever pull plugs and "read" them. Im no expert, but was wondering if you did and could you share those results.
Thanks Damon. I did see that the plugs were black when I removed them. This is another data point that the engine is still running rich. My opinion is the O2 sensor and color tune are more effective to determine rich/lean.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Sorry... I meant checking new plugs you installed after changing the jetting. Not the ones you replaced. Again, I'm no expert... I've been shown how to determine three things from the plugs; heat range, timing, and fueling.
Oh, I see. I'll take a look again after several miles. My understanding is that with today's fuels it makes reading colors more difficult. I'm not exactly sure why.
G'day,
I've been following your videos as to gain more knowledge about tuning my dual 40mm webers on my 63 beetle. And I'm slowly getting there.
Q. When you tig welded the carburettor linkage, did you sleeve it, or will the but weld stand up.
With the wideband gauge you mentioned I've just ordered a dual one. It cost a bit but the plan is to have one read-out for each bank at the same time.
So thanks for sharing the knowledge ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Hi there. I'm glad you are making progress on your tuning. Don't forget the distributor advance off idle also plays a big role with driveability.
The linkage is butt welded without a sleeve. It's probably an inch or more of welding since the diameter is pretty big. I highly doubt it will fail, but sleeving can't hurt if you have the right size to go inside there.
Good choice on dual O2 sensors. That makes it much easier.
where did you get those wheel stands?
I made them th-cam.com/video/rrYZsOgcoQI/w-d-xo.html
HELP!! I removed the structures , venturies stacks inside the bodies and I slightly sanded the inside, now rpms don’t go down right away, DID I RUIN MY CARBS? Solex 40 splits.
You removed the venturis and sanded them? Not sure why, but it's possible you have an internal fuel or air leak.
What is the displacement of this engine..?
1720 cc
Hi, I accelerate ok on my 69 912, but the rpms try to stay high and don’t go down right away, what could it be, I cleaned the carbs, split shaft, did I make a mistake?
That's because your distributor advance springs are probably sticking.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I will check that, do you prefer solex 40 split shaft or single shaft, great video, thanks.
Yep check it with a timing light as the idle hangs up high. My guess is you will see the advance is still high while the carbs are closed.
I prefer the solid shaft Solexs. My 356 engine has split shaft carbs converted to solid shaft by carb rescue. The later split shaft carbs have more progression holes and are slightly better. Best of both worlds I guess.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I prefer single shaft, splits don’t always operate at the same time if you have minuscule play, I am having problems with my 69 split carbs so I am going single.
Eesh; those tyres look hazardous, with all those cracks...
Before blaming the carbs, check the idle screws. Better running a bit too rich, than too lean.
I'll probably fix the stuttering under 2000 revs.
Everything under 4% CO with old cars is ok.
Don't be too neat or perfect with old cars.
Running rich under acceleration is normal, look at the values at constant speed.
The tires are very old and trash. No high speed runs for me yet on these tires.
I agree that carbs are pretty crude and difficult to get an even AFR across the board.
The techniques I'm showing give insight into what's happening so I can adjust for the best overall and safe setup.
Nothing wrong with webers and I'm not trying to beat a landspeed record or push the head temps to the limit.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Hahaha. All good 👍🏻
‘74 912??
Confusing I know. The car came from the factory as a 74 911S, but it now has a temporary 912 engine.
They didnt make a 1974. 912
I know, it's a 911 with a 912 engine it. This audience won't let me call it a 911.
Can't win, ha ha