Thank you, just what I was thinking when he called it a 2 barrel. Primaries in the front with the choke plate, and secondaries in the rear. Clearly a Holley 4-barrel.
Post 68 can fit any engine as it was redesigned to fit a bigblock.. unfortunately pre 68 had much less room under the hood. So yes he is right when he said he has to remove the shock towers to fit a coyote engine.
The 67 Mustang had engine V8 options that included 390 and a 427 and 428CJ 65-66 Mustangs only had 260 (64 1/2 the first 125,000 mustangs) and 289 V8 options.
They had to cut the shock towers for the 69 and 70 Boss 429 cars...As a person who was very emotionally attached to both a 69 Boss 429 as well as a 17 GT which I currently own.....I can attest that the Coyotes are just about as wide as a Boss and Kar Kraft cut the towers to fit the Boss motors in 69 and 70.
Actually the '67's were nearly identical to the '68's and body parts DO interchange between the '67's and '68s. 1967 was the first year of the first Mustang redesign since their introduction April 19, 1964.
Ben, any young man that can totally disassemble a 720 and reassemble it like you did will have no problem with that old mustang. One thing, don't sandblast, but rather soda blast that inner/outer structure. Sandblasting can warp panels and cause huge issues. Trust me, I've got nearly 50 years of car experience behind me. Keep your head up and continue with great confidence. YOU are a smart young man with a great head on your shoulders. By the way, I did subscribe to your brothers channel and again, I'm going to point out what a GREAT job your parents did in raising you guys! Your dad has created some great car restoration/repair men! You have a bright future ahead!
That air cleaner is a fire trap on the Mustang coupe. One backfire through the carb and it's on fire. the foam element lights up on fire with little effort. Whatever you do is never use an air cleaner like that.
Had one catch fire on me I floored it and let the engine eat it somehow managed to not stick a valve or burn it down fucked the carb and the plugs though I was 16 was my first car I built only ran that filter because it fit under the stock hood the charred spot showed where I needed to cut the hood though
Dude I don't comment on many videos but I gotta say your content and consistency has really made me love your channel. Been following for over a year and love how you've evolved the channel. Keep going with it! All the recommendations people make you constantly deliver. Now you have your own shop with endless possibilities! Congrats man.
@@Vtuned Sand blasting the engine bay is not a bad idea.. Do it if you can, will totally worth it specially after that clean sealing, paint & finish and suddenly you like it so much that you decide to keep it a bit longer and you are glad to doing it properly ! Love the clarity & quality of footage, awesome content, keep-em coming, hard work pays ! ;0)
Depending on which subframe you go with to fit the Coyote/coil overs the majority of them require you to remove the shock towers anyway. And for the people complaining about getting rid of the shock towers, they were burnt to a crisp, so the metal in them is stressed and he would need to replace them anyway. Personally i would replace the aprons as well, cause they are damaged and obviously have been heat stressed, and with a 500hp motor in there i wouldnt leave that or the fire wall to chance.
... and while he is at it, I would STRONGLY suggest installing a pair of torque boxes to tie the front frame rails to the rockers. ESPECIALLY if it's going to be receiving a 500HP unit (since that WILL try to twist the unibody inside out!)
@@trevorvanbremen4718 try? If he doesn’t get a subframe connection from the front and rear, depending on the rear end he decides to go with it will torque twist the car
@@mattsgarage530 From memory, the 6 bangers only had a fairly WEAK rear end and the V8s got a 9 inch. (Unsure about the 260 v8) Front-to-rear subframe connectors definitely WOULD be a good idea, but IMO, the torque boxes to tie the front frame rails to the rockers would almost be enough if he keeps it around 500HP (While ours is a '70 rather than a '65, we get minimal torque twisting despite throwing 700HP N/A and 900HP on the bottle. No subframe connectors, just fully welded torque boxes. And it's still a leaf spring car on a 4-speed manual!)
@@trevorvanbremen4718 yea, my mustang was optioned from the factory with a 200hp 289, 3 speed transmission and a 2.80 8 inch rear end. Though it’s a ‘66, she was built to be a cruiser not a power house.
The 302 is essentially the same engine as the 289, except that it is a 3" stroke rather than 2 7/8. If it's a 289 engine, you should be able to sell it for somewhat more than the 302, even though the 302 has a higher nickel content in the block casting, and is stronger. About the only way that you can tell on a used engine though is to take the heads off, and either 302 or 289 should be stamped in the block casting.
Id be concerned with the heat's effect on the metal temper back against the fire wall and right fender supports. As another pointed out, the rapid heating and cooling plus the now noticeable door strike on the fender would seem to indicate issues that will need to be addressed. Hate to get all the work done and have the car fold at the firewall.
These Chattanooga content creators are taking TH-cam by storm! First Goonzquad and now VTuned. Love the new focus on the channel, the editing and the content. Keep it up bro!
Love the vids! You might want to have the frame checked for straightness. Removing the front end DID relive stress from the frame, but the stress in the frame was caused by the rapid expansion of the metal from the intense heat from the fire. When the fire is put out the metal is cooled, it never returns to the original position. Think welding thin body panels... To much heat in one area and you get warpage. Good news is if the frame is out anywhere, it can be pulled back into position
14:31 ! I've been working on cars for literally decades and my favorite accessory is my adjustable dimmable LED headlamp ! I never use hand held lights anymore. BTW...14:50 is a no no..lol
Vtune I had a 69 Camaro with an air cleaner like that. I used it because with the tall intake I was using there was not enough room for a regular one. Anyhow when I was at a car show some of the car Guys told me these were notorious for the foam catching on fire. So I had to find another solution. Great progress on the tear down. I am looking forward to the next video!
its either a 289 or 302 engine if you remove your starter you may find few numbers stamped on the block it should have the build date 1968 was the last year for 289s also when the 302 came out. there should also have a part number stamped if its c9 or later then its most likely not a 289 but a 302. Also what will you be doing with your suspension? tbh i think it will be easier and cheaper to get a mustang ll kit cut the shock towers to make space for the 5.0 the kit also comes with all plates and everything to box in the rails and make it sturdy for that beast engine your throwing in! what transmission will you be using? if you use the stock coyote one you will need to cut the firewall and tunnel a bit for clearance unless you run with a tremec i belive theres one that doesnt require you cutting the firewall or tunnel! cant wait to see how it turns out im also building a fastback with a coyote myself i started watching your videos since you started the old fastback!!
Yeah it would be a good idea to replace the aprons, firewall, and the roof. When metal is superheated you lose tensile strength. So for safety it is better to just replace it.
the engine block identification is on the block by the starter. you will need to remove the starter. also pull the valve cover off also and it will say 289 or 302
@@jacobspaw5855 yes that also. The valve covers look like a roller motor possibly. Till we see the stamps on the head between the valve springs and the stamping by the starter
Heat expands and when cooled fast by water from the fire department and cool extinguisher it contracts at differing rates because of the difference in mass such a stacking parts such as fenders bolt areas etc.
I would strip the car down and send it off to be chemically dipped! That would save a lot of problems in the long run and you'd get to restore a fresh car! 😛
Hi Ben, great car! As an European I would opt for a period correct engine and chassis layout. No problem between 6 and 8 cilinders, but a modern engine would depreciate the value over here. But I know that you Americans have other idea's.
Those foam air filters do catch fire, but they burn fast and get sucked down the carb. Doubt that was the cause of the fire. Had to be electrical because the engine compartment and interior were burned.
I gotta admit vtuned is stepping it up with constant uploads, better editing, and interesting builds, he even talks to the camera better. Making good progress
I had that air filter on a 48 Merc. It backfired and caught fire. The foam filter is highly flammable. I was lucky I had the hood open when it happened, or it would look like that Stang.
19:40 vtuned, you might want to invest in a plastic cap block off kit so you could seal off the transmission output shaft, would have saved a huge mess on the floor. I have a set, and love it
Hey Guys, I love these episodes. And it's great to have more uploads throughout the week rather than one humongous video every other month like others do😆
No shame to admit that he's putting in WORK..,it's why we subscribe. I've subscribed to this channel since day ONE....without a single regret. Doing it, doing it, and doing it WELL VTuned!
BTW, that is a four-barrel carburetor. The front two barrels have the choke tower with a butterfly that closes for cold start. There is typically a coil that pulls down when it is cold, closing the butterfly (enrichening the mixture). After the engine warms up the spring expands, opening up the butterfly (leaning out the mixture)
Vtuned has been super consistent with the upload. You should have a cowl hood for the mustang. Install a CJ intake manifold for the 5.0 swap. Make a powerful NA car.
Generally, on both 8 and 6-cylinder Ford engines, the engine number is towards the rear of the block on the passenger side. On 8-cylinder engines, it is where the starter bolts onto the bell housing and the starter may have to be removed to locate it.
That Holley carb is a 4 barrel, with vaccum secondaries, very common, not overly desirable in my opinion, but better than lots of others, the edelbrock air filter is a very cheap style, they're like $30 new, and they are known for catching on fire due to the element material. If it was a Holley double pumper like you first had thought, then that would have been a sad loss to see it all melted
Build is coming along nicely! Can't wait to see the future videos, also can't wait to see the engine bay all cleaned up in the next one. Curious to see how everything held up with all that heat, but so far it's looking way better than I'd imagined! Loving the constant videos you guys are putting out, always looking forward to a new VTuned video! Keep up the good work 👍👍
Check the oil, should tell you what you need to know about water in the oil. Also, if you pull the plugs and spin her right round baby, right round, will tell you if it is frozen or seized (due to heat). A good flush should take care of any trouble, unless it had problems before the fire.
You need the EVA foam cut-outs for the tool chest there is no point in just laying down a small piece of rubber as the tools move around if they are fitted into their foam cut-outs they don't move
Just a thought for next time. Use an old yoke or (take the one from the front of your driveshaft) put it in the tail of the trans and bungee cord it to keep transmission fluid from pouring out all over the shop floor.
As mentioned by others, I'm lovin the frequency of the uploads and you have REALLY stepped up the camera work and editing. You also seem way more comfortable in front of the camera these days. Keep up the great work!
The 4 stud wheels came on the 6 cylinder cars, my 62 comet was like that. I picked up the v8 suspension and drive line from a wrecked Falcon. The low springs are because they are the 6 cylinder springs.
The engine code should be on the back passenger side under the head . Also when you remove the cowl after drilling out all the spit welds . That would give you great access to the back of the dash to sand and paint it . 😊😊😊
Your doing it right,just investigate as you go,don’t jump the gun,just go slow,that way you have no surprises.car itself looks good.keep doing what your doing and carry on.👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎
Suggestion. Everytime you work on a new project save a memorabilia or a photo to hang on the wall. Maybe down the line we'll have a tour of "wall of fame" of past projects of the new shop...
When rebuilding this car, will you address areas that you mentioned are known to rust ? i.e. can you prep the panels to stop future rusting like they are known for ?
That air cleaner was probably where the fire started. Those foam ones suck bad. They get gas in them from just vaporization while it sits, then one backfire and WHOOOSH!
Hi great project. Somebody else probably told you, but 4 lug wheels mean this was a I6 engine.originally. That also means i6 small breaks, and i6 rear end. In order to stop a v8 you will need to add 5 lug front disc breaks, and change the rear end out to handle the power (while you are at it add 5 lug rear disk breaks. And the car does not already have it a dual zone master cylinder. In time of course, but I would puta priority on the brakes. Oh 5 lug rims will obviously be needed.
Really enjoying this, owned many Mustangs in my day, here in OZ and the Uk. Be good if you would number your episodes, make it easier for us folks who cant watch you every day. cheers and HNY!!
V tuned that's a 4-barrel there are two barrels on the back that you pointed at and two barrels in the front underneath the choke plate I also believe that is probably a 289 which normally would have had just a two-barrel carburetor but it looks like it has had a different intake put on it but now has a small 4-barrel on it
289 and 302 needs a good braided line to the carb from the hard tank line. Some ppl just rubber hose and goes.....goes boom. Save your ride and fix it with a good line.
If you cut the engine right down the center you can get a real clear look at the cylinder walls to see if they're scored or not
cant wait for the fanboys to see this post.
hey Sam, nice to see you here
Then you can stick it back together with some panel bond and abandon it in a field.
actually, cutting down the center will only reveal the crank bearings. You'll need to cut twice 90° apart for the cylinder walls on an V8.
Helps find the socks someone stuffed in there too.
That’s actually a 4 barrel. The ones in the back of the carb are the secondaries.
Thank you, just what I was thinking when he called it a 2 barrel. Primaries in the front with the choke plate, and secondaries in the rear. Clearly a Holley 4-barrel.
@@darkenergy5686 Along with being a double pumper from what I can tell.
Yes, a Holley performer 4 barrel double pumper. Probably a 650 cfm
He's obviously from the Fuel Injection generation.
He is clueless
Gotta admit you're killing it with the consistent uploads!!
Yeah that's worth gold for us viewers! Gotta love it! 😛👍
Agreeeed
Agreeeed
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-01/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-01/w-d-xo.html
Post 68 can fit any engine as it was redesigned to fit a bigblock.. unfortunately pre 68 had much less room under the hood. So yes he is right when he said he has to remove the shock towers to fit a coyote engine.
I rememeber that I saw an overhaulin episode where they removed the front suspension towers and fitted a coilover one.
The 67 Mustang had engine V8 options that included 390 and a 427 and 428CJ 65-66 Mustangs only had 260 (64 1/2 the first 125,000 mustangs) and 289 V8 options.
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-08/w-d-xo.html
They had to cut the shock towers for the 69 and 70 Boss 429 cars...As a person who was very emotionally attached to both a 69 Boss 429 as well as a 17 GT which I currently own.....I can attest that the Coyotes are just about as wide as a Boss and Kar Kraft cut the towers to fit the Boss motors in 69 and 70.
Actually the '67's were nearly identical to the '68's and body parts DO interchange between the '67's and '68s. 1967 was the first year of the first Mustang redesign since their introduction April 19, 1964.
Ben, any young man that can totally disassemble a 720 and reassemble it like you did will have no problem with that old mustang. One thing, don't sandblast, but rather soda blast that inner/outer structure. Sandblasting can warp panels and cause huge issues. Trust me, I've got nearly 50 years of car experience behind me. Keep your head up and continue with great confidence. YOU are a smart young man with a great head on your shoulders. By the way, I did subscribe to your brothers channel and again, I'm going to point out what a GREAT job your parents did in raising you guys! Your dad has created some great car restoration/repair men! You have a bright future ahead!
Not if you use a low pressure sandblaster, I have sandblasted many a cars with nothing more then 100 Psi, takes longer but so what...
That air cleaner is a fire trap on the Mustang coupe. One backfire through the carb and it's on fire. the foam element lights up on fire with little effort. Whatever you do is never use an air cleaner like that.
Had one catch fire on me I floored it and let the engine eat it somehow managed to not stick a valve or burn it down fucked the carb and the plugs though I was 16 was my first car I built only ran that filter because it fit under the stock hood the charred spot showed where I needed to cut the hood though
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-07/w-d-xo.html
@@Hitycooking stop spamming
Good point.
The way you are putting out constant good high quality content it will not be long until you hit the 1 million subs mark love the content bud
Thank you sir !
Dude I don't comment on many videos but I gotta say your content and consistency has really made me love your channel. Been following for over a year and love how you've evolved the channel. Keep going with it! All the recommendations people make you constantly deliver. Now you have your own shop with endless possibilities! Congrats man.
Thank you sir!
@@Vtuned Have a nice Christmas Eve.
I notice too. We will support you vtuned
@@Vtuned Sand blasting the engine bay is not a bad idea.. Do it if you can, will totally worth it specially after that clean sealing, paint & finish and suddenly you like it so much that you decide to keep it a bit longer and you are glad to doing it properly ! Love the clarity & quality of footage, awesome content, keep-em coming, hard work pays ! ;0)
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-07/w-d-xo.html
Depending on which subframe you go with to fit the Coyote/coil overs the majority of them require you to remove the shock towers anyway. And for the people complaining about getting rid of the shock towers, they were burnt to a crisp, so the metal in them is stressed and he would need to replace them anyway. Personally i would replace the aprons as well, cause they are damaged and obviously have been heat stressed, and with a 500hp motor in there i wouldnt leave that or the fire wall to chance.
... and while he is at it, I would STRONGLY suggest installing a pair of torque boxes to tie the front frame rails to the rockers.
ESPECIALLY if it's going to be receiving a 500HP unit (since that WILL try to twist the unibody inside out!)
@@trevorvanbremen4718 try? If he doesn’t get a subframe connection from the front and rear, depending on the rear end he decides to go with it will torque twist the car
@@mattsgarage530
From memory, the 6 bangers only had a fairly WEAK rear end and the V8s got a 9 inch. (Unsure about the 260 v8)
Front-to-rear subframe connectors definitely WOULD be a good idea, but IMO, the torque boxes to tie the front frame rails to the rockers would almost be enough if he keeps it around 500HP
(While ours is a '70 rather than a '65, we get minimal torque twisting despite throwing 700HP N/A and 900HP on the bottle. No subframe connectors, just fully welded torque boxes. And it's still a leaf spring car on a 4-speed manual!)
@@trevorvanbremen4718 yea, my mustang was optioned from the factory with a 200hp 289, 3 speed transmission and a 2.80 8 inch rear end. Though it’s a ‘66, she was built to be a cruiser not a power house.
The 302 is essentially the same engine as the 289, except that it is a 3" stroke rather than 2 7/8. If it's a 289 engine, you should be able to sell it for somewhat more than the 302, even though the 302 has a higher nickel content in the block casting, and is stronger. About the only way that you can tell on a used engine though is to take the heads off, and either 302 or 289 should be stamped in the block casting.
Id be concerned with the heat's effect on the metal temper back against the fire wall and right fender supports. As another pointed out, the rapid heating and cooling plus the now noticeable door strike on the fender would seem to indicate issues that will need to be addressed. Hate to get all the work done and have the car fold at the firewall.
These Chattanooga content creators are taking TH-cam by storm! First Goonzquad and now VTuned. Love the new focus on the channel, the editing and the content. Keep it up bro!
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-01/w-d-xo.html
Don't sleep on the Wichita creators!
Goonzquad are in Gainesville Georgia.
The wrinkles in the aprons is normal. That engine has newer 302 valve covers, so it could be a later 302. Pretty wild pulling the engine out…
Love the vids! You might want to have the frame checked for straightness. Removing the front end DID relive stress from the frame, but the stress in the frame was caused by the rapid expansion of the metal from the intense heat from the fire. When the fire is put out the metal is cooled, it never returns to the original position. Think welding thin body panels... To much heat in one area and you get warpage. Good news is if the frame is out anywhere, it can be pulled back into position
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-08/w-d-xo.html
The man specialises in frame work and your telling him what to do 😂😂
The engine removal would be easier if you used the two post lift.
th-cam.com/video/5LWCnz69C-09/w-d-xo.html
14:31 ! I've been working on cars for literally decades and my favorite accessory is my adjustable dimmable LED headlamp ! I never use hand held lights anymore. BTW...14:50 is a no no..lol
Vtune I had a 69 Camaro with an air cleaner like that. I used it because with the tall intake I was using there was not enough room for a regular one. Anyhow when I was at a car show some of the car Guys told me these were notorious for the foam catching on fire. So I had to find another solution. Great progress on the tear down. I am looking forward to the next video!
really well edited, with very good time lapse sequence on floating tool stand. On an engine that a real purist would love. Very cool videoseries!!
That mic is a good purchase👍
its either a 289 or 302 engine if you remove your starter you may find few numbers stamped on the block it should have the build date 1968 was the last year for 289s also when the 302 came out. there should also have a part number stamped if its c9 or later then its most likely not a 289 but a 302. Also what will you be doing with your suspension? tbh i think it will be easier and cheaper to get a mustang ll kit cut the shock towers to make space for the 5.0 the kit also comes with all plates and everything to box in the rails and make it sturdy for that beast engine your throwing in! what transmission will you be using? if you use the stock coyote one you will need to cut the firewall and tunnel a bit for clearance unless you run with a tremec i belive theres one that doesnt require you cutting the firewall or tunnel! cant wait to see how it turns out im also building a fastback with a coyote myself i started watching your videos since you started the old fastback!!
Mustang dreams are always a good dream. I am happy for you too finally able to see yours coming true! Bless you and yours
I NEED to see that bay getting sanded. Must be pretty satisfying
Yeah it would be a good idea to replace the aprons, firewall, and the roof. When metal is superheated you lose tensile strength. So for safety it is better to just replace it.
And butcher it in the process 😂
the engine block identification is on the block by the starter. you will need to remove the starter. also pull the valve cover off also and it will say 289 or 302
Or a 351 W
@@jacobspaw5855 yes that also. The valve covers look like a roller motor possibly. Till we see the stamps on the head between the valve springs and the stamping by the starter
Heat expands and when cooled fast by water from the fire department and cool extinguisher it contracts at differing rates because of the difference in mass such a stacking parts such as fenders bolt areas etc.
Keep it coming, Great content. Remember to number these uploads :)
What a beautiful story 🥲
I would strip the car down and send it off to be chemically dipped! That would save a lot of problems in the long run and you'd get to restore a fresh car! 😛
Hi Ben, great car! As an European I would opt for a period correct engine and chassis layout. No problem between 6 and 8 cilinders, but a modern engine would depreciate the value over here. But I know that you Americans have other idea's.
Those foam air filters do catch fire, but they burn fast and get sucked down the carb. Doubt that was the cause of the fire. Had to be electrical because the engine compartment and interior were burned.
I gotta admit vtuned is stepping it up with constant uploads, better editing, and interesting builds, he even talks to the camera better. Making good progress
I had that air filter on a 48 Merc. It backfired and caught fire. The foam filter is highly flammable. I was lucky I had the hood open when it happened, or it would look like that Stang.
19:40 vtuned, you might want to invest in a plastic cap block off kit so you could seal off the transmission output shaft, would have saved a huge mess on the floor. I have a set, and love it
I can see you as an old man, the one of only a few I'd like to think that is honest and is passionate about what you're doing..great job!!!
Now that's a nice box for those nice shiny tools. You're off to an awesome start.
Hey Guys, I love these episodes.
And it's great to have more uploads throughout the week rather than one humongous video every other month like others do😆
The heat from the fire made it easy for the bolts to come off...
Those axel stands dont look safe
Anyone else noticed the lift that is literally 5 feet away? Love the content thanks for the video.
No shame to admit that he's putting in WORK..,it's why we subscribe. I've subscribed to this channel since day ONE....without a single regret. Doing it, doing it, and doing it WELL VTuned!
Its going to be a sweet build.
BTW, that is a four-barrel carburetor. The front two barrels have the choke tower with a butterfly that closes for cold start. There is typically a coil that pulls down when it is cold, closing the butterfly (enrichening the mixture). After the engine warms up the spring expands, opening up the butterfly (leaning out the mixture)
Vtuned has been super consistent with the upload. You should have a cowl hood for the mustang. Install a CJ intake manifold for the 5.0 swap. Make a powerful NA car.
Glad you are back to posting. You are one of Restoration Rescues favorite channels!
Generally, on both 8 and 6-cylinder Ford engines, the engine number is towards the rear of the block on the passenger side. On 8-cylinder engines, it is where the starter bolts onto the bell housing and the starter may have to be removed to locate it.
I think it is a 4 barrel two on the front with the large throttle plate and the two you pointed out behind them.
Definitely a Four barrel.
Ben's a real car surgeon!!
Seat belts do work the best. Anyone who has pulled an engine from pick n pull knows.
That Holley carb is a 4 barrel, with vaccum secondaries, very common, not overly desirable in my opinion, but better than lots of others, the edelbrock air filter is a very cheap style, they're like $30 new, and they are known for catching on fire due to the element material. If it was a Holley double pumper like you first had thought, then that would have been a sad loss to see it all melted
Build is coming along nicely! Can't wait to see the future videos, also can't wait to see the engine bay all cleaned up in the next one. Curious to see how everything held up with all that heat, but so far it's looking way better than I'd imagined! Loving the constant videos you guys are putting out, always looking forward to a new VTuned video! Keep up the good work 👍👍
Good work! Thanks for the consistent 20-minute videos!
This build is ganna be great. Who doesn’t love a Mustang 🤘🤘keep the vids coming yay
Maybe Black Out the chrome? Would look amazing
Get this man to 1 million 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Back to back content 👌 v-tuned is killing it
Consistency is the key though you look tired
Check the oil, should tell you what you need to know about water in the oil. Also, if you pull the plugs and spin her right round baby, right round, will tell you if it is frozen or seized (due to heat). A good flush should take care of any trouble, unless it had problems before the fire.
That thing got pretty crispy. Hope the engine is salvageable.
Those Edelbrock filters are real fire hazards, do not run them
I have to agree with u on the seat belts. Best to use when pulling engines
You need the EVA foam cut-outs for the tool chest there is no point in just laying down a small piece of rubber as the tools move around if they are fitted into their foam cut-outs they don't move
Just a thought for next time. Use an old yoke or (take the one from the front of your driveshaft) put it in the tail of the trans and bungee cord it to keep transmission fluid from pouring out all over the shop floor.
Parabéns ótimo trabalho! Vc é muito bom no que faz! 👊🏻
Man it must be nice to be in your own shop so you don't lose parts on your build but some how you managed to take and reassemble a whole McLaren
Vtuned has come along way I remember before these guys even had 50K subs
Childhood dreams. Man that is the truth. Great job
As mentioned by others, I'm lovin the frequency of the uploads and you have REALLY stepped up the camera work and editing. You also seem way more comfortable in front of the camera these days. Keep up the great work!
Once you use a head lamp under a car, you'll never go back. Just makes too much sense not to!
The 4 stud wheels came on the 6 cylinder cars, my 62 comet was like that. I picked up the v8 suspension and drive line from a wrecked Falcon. The low springs are because they are the 6 cylinder springs.
That style of Edelbrock air cleaner has a foam filter element, one backfire and it's done. JUNK!
Interesting to watch you figuring out the work area as you work in it.
That white tool box with the red and black Milwaukee looks great.
Keep the uploads coming Ben. I will keep watching. Love the content.
The engine code should be on the back passenger side under the head . Also when you remove the cowl after drilling out all the spit welds . That would give you great access to the back of the dash to sand and paint it . 😊😊😊
Your doing it right,just investigate as you go,don’t jump the gun,just go slow,that way you have no surprises.car itself looks good.keep doing what your doing and carry on.👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎
Dude, I never saw a car picked up from the engine like that. Epic.
Suggestion. Everytime you work on a new project save a memorabilia or a photo to hang on the wall. Maybe down the line we'll have a tour of "wall of fame" of past projects of the new shop...
That box is sick 🔥
Loved the child hood story of your passion for mustang's 👌✌
You should get your hands on those laser rust remover
I think the ripples in the fender apron are from when ford manufactured them. My '65 Mustang also has them.
Learn to adapt rapidly. You don't have all the right gear but you are getting it done. Love these vids!
The engine identification stamp should be on the passenger side on towards the firewall below the heads just above the oil pan
Of course the engine can be saved. Keep the vids coming vTuned.
His accent got real heavy in this episode. Charming I like it!
When rebuilding this car, will you address areas that you mentioned are known to rust ? i.e. can you prep the panels to stop future rusting like they are known for ?
You know what I’m thinking. Stripe the car sell the fenders body engine and keep the frame for the fastback.
That air cleaner was probably where the fire started. Those foam ones suck bad.
They get gas in them from just vaporization while it sits, then one backfire and WHOOOSH!
Yes metal expands when hot contrats when cold like freezing that's why heating up a motorbike motor case will make the bearing just drop out
Drink when he says "perfect"! Lol killing it man, love the build.
Hi great project. Somebody else probably told you, but 4 lug wheels mean this was a I6 engine.originally. That also means i6 small breaks, and i6 rear end. In order to stop a v8 you will need to add 5 lug front disc breaks, and change the rear end out to handle the power (while you are at it add 5 lug rear disk breaks. And the car does not already have it a dual zone master cylinder. In time of course, but I would puta priority on the brakes. Oh 5 lug rims will obviously be needed.
I would think it is a 302 with the modern oil filler tube, but It is definitely a 289 or a 302.
Yes let's get to work 🔥
Really enjoying this, owned many Mustangs in my day, here in OZ and the Uk. Be good if you would number your episodes, make it easier for us folks who cant watch you every day. cheers and HNY!!
I am enjoying these uploads as they are getting better and better with each episode.
V tuned that's a 4-barrel there are two barrels on the back that you pointed at and two barrels in the front underneath the choke plate I also believe that is probably a 289 which normally would have had just a two-barrel carburetor but it looks like it has had a different intake put on it but now has a small 4-barrel on it
Check those jack stands aren’t under recall from Harbor Freight.
I think those are not the recalled ones. The recalled ones had sharper teeth on the posts. Either way, HF will still take them for store credit.
he would probably buy the recall ones to save money
289 and 302 needs a good braided line to the carb from the hard tank line. Some ppl just rubber hose and goes.....goes boom. Save your ride and fix it with a good line.
Sweet man. Cant wait to see it complete!!
SIDE PROJECT... use the left over metal beams from the other mustang frame and make your own engine hoist.