Huge thanks to BetterHelp for sponsoring our video! Use betterhelp.com/perkins to get started today! If you have any questions about the brand relating to how the therapists are licensed, their privacy policy, or therapist compensation model, check out this FAQ: www.betterhelp.com/your-questions-answered/
You guys are big enough that you REALLY need to be vetting who is sponsoring you. BetterHelp is a NOTORIOUSLY horrible company and I'm honestly disgusted that you think it's OK to push these companies without ANY background vetting. Go back to pushing tools where there is no risk of people actually dying from a bad product.
I feel inadequate, Brock’s bringing so much more to his build than I could 😂. Glad he has tools and mahteeriuhls to help you all out so much! The lunch scene, too funny and absolutely took me back to lunch with crew during the Modern Retirement Home build! Thanks to Jaime for helping me figure out a good time for us to come on site for the little celebration for y’all’s big achievement - sorry I spoiled the surprise for you. You all are the best!
As a little tip, next time try to cover the upper joints of the first layer of thermal insulation with the second layer so no weak spots can arise here. A little recommendation from Germany. Love your content!
Risinger is very correct, you guys should use a dimple barrier. Delta or DMX has some very affordable large rolls, which provide great drainage from walls to weeping system, as well as maintaining a life long air gap to keep sub-grade moisture build-up at bay. Its just smart and super cheap insurance. We use it everywhere in Canada. It should min code in all jurisdictions in North America.
When I was a project manager we always place the bituthene horizontally. Start at the bottom then overlap the next sheet just like roofing felt or a wall membrane.
Observation and Question: one of the main benefits of something smelling bad (especially when it is bad for you) causes a natural "I should wear a mask or stay away from it" vs no smell and a false sense of security. If it is a chemical that kills bugs, and stays on the surface it dries on for 30 years....should wisdom prevail and wear some level of PPE? Love your channel and want you and your families to enjoy you being around to the fullest!
Mega congratulations on hitting 1 million subscribers…I don’t remember how long I’ve been watching, but it was a ways before Jamie’s accident. I remember how courageous and accepting he was and how he chose to bear down to keep on keeping on. Another more recent moment was participating in and seeing the unbelievable retirement appreciation showered on Arlo. Though that gift was directed to Arlo, it feels like a clear thank you to the whole crew, the way you work together and the great content you produce twice per week. PBB is always my 1st channel to check for new chapters and the channel I talk most about with my friends… Someday…Bryson City, Cardinal Coffee…maybe a chance to say Hi…till then…thanks…A MILLION!!! 🎉🎉🎉
In colder climates like Minnesota where I live, it's better to insulate on the outside of basement walls. Two reasons: thermal mass and in the spring and early summer, the ground is still cold and I've seen condensation between the inside basement wall and fiberglass insulation. The insulation keeps the basement wall warm and prevents any condensation from forming.
I was thinking the same, where is the sand blinding under that damp proof membrane! I do enjoy these videos but the lack of insulation and number of thermal bridges they have is hilarious from a UK perspective.
For your MEGA project I would recommend you utilize "running dimensions". Find a point that translates from the foundation to the roof and make that point 0,0. As you go across the page, add the dimensions and at each dimension extension line write the accumulative value. If you take the time to do this for every single dimension, both in the "y" axis and the "x" axis, it will save you tons of time and heartache. I would be happy to provide you with an example.
2 หลายเดือนก่อน +3
@ 3:30 when the job is finished you should take those very used and dirty blueprints and frame each page individually and present them to the home owner as a gift.... you wont believe how special of a gift that will be...
Here in g'old Europe outside xps insulation below grade is standard for new builds. We usually do the full waterproofing using a bitumen-based paste, then glue the xps sheets over that using foam or more bitumen and then (as Matt said!) a layer of dimpled membrane to protect the insulation. The modern membranes are three-layered, inside is a sliding layer to prevent earth movement from ripping on the sheets, middle layer is the membrane (dimples face away from the wall) and the outside layer is a filtering fabric that allows surface water to drain quickly while preventing clogs.
This method is common in the US too. I think there are a few differences. Because our warmer winters (in the southern US) don't kill off all the insects, ground boring insects like termites and Ants can be a problem. Some types of exterior insulation systems work really well in colder climates, but have to be tweeked in the south because insects will bore/nest in the exterior insulation. Some insulation like Rockwool/stonewool are insects resistant, while certain foams require additional protection.
Something is very wrong with that since the dimples should be facing the insulation. You were putting it wrong for some reason. You can easily google it.
@@Davor_gradnja it actually depends on the situation. If you need a (and have one) drainage, facing the dimples away from the wall is the better approach. As mentioned, it should then have a filtering fabric attached to prevent clogging. If all you need is mechanical protection facing the dimples towards the wall can be ok too. But only with an additional sliding layer that prevents them from grabbing and tearing the insulation sheets when compacting the dirt.
@@DrMJJr it really only holds the sheets until backfill comes and presses them against the wall. I think every hole in the waterproofing layer is one too many. Relying on self-sealing properties is a bet I wouldn't take
If you don't protect that external insulation, nesting insects will just burrow into it and destroy it over time. Also seeing as your insulation bats don't have lapped edges the outer plastic layer will prevent water from seeping in between the joints.
You should be using a 10-15 mil poly for the sub-slab vapor barrier, the extra thickness keeps it from being punctured easily from working on it. Also, do you guys not have radon concerns in your area? Typically you would want to tape all the edges and seams to prevent radon seeping into living space.
They mentioned before this build is in a high-radon area. As you point out, that plastic will offer zero protection against that. (But that said, the American way of letting radon out through a pipe in the roof is just weird anyway. Radon is heavier than air, so in a windless area or on still days that radon will just flow out the pipe in the roof and down back over and into the house.)
@@TubeSurfer26 The method I've seen used in the past involves putting a sealed plastic barrier down in the basement with a pipe that then runs vertically up through the house to a vent in the roof. The idea being Radon (that's heavier than air, remember) can only escape up through the pipe. I'm sure that's not the only way they deal with Radon, and obviously that wouldn't work in houses without a crawlspace. In this build if I were doing it (and I'm a software engineer, not a builder, so anything I do will be seriously over engineered), I would have started with a Radon barrier under the walls they've cast (concrete is not airtight, remember). I would then have sealed and wrapped the outsides of those walls with a radon barrier behind the insulation, and continued it under the gravel and pipes they've put down so there's zero possibility for Radon to enter any part of the house in the first place. That safe room they're building will just fill up with Radon without serious ventilation to circulate the air continuously.
The radon system has access into that area below the vapor barrier. It is powered with a fan to create a slight vacuum underground where the radon is, and exfiltrate it outside the house.
Try the Expol EX1300 Hot Wire polystyrene cutter - cuts the polystyrene without all the mess being created by a saw. I love watching you guys work, all the way from New Zealand 🇳🇿!
I do a lot of ComChecks at my office and boy are they a good time. I do mostly commercial work, but the IECC does have prescriptive values for insulation base on climate zone. This includes foundation walls. Also, i probably would have staggered those joints vertically as well as horizontally. The dimple board is really beneficial to help alleviate hydrostatic pressure on foundation walls. Probably would have been a good idea to incorporate given the rain and the houses location on that slope.
We always design French drains with a full burrito wrap, you can get mud migrating in from all sides. Besides, you’re going to burry it, it’s not like you can go in and fix it. I’m in the midden if doing one for a motel right now.
It's going to be interesting how long this build will take. What is great, the homeowner will have this to reference back to, but see the journey. Well done guys
I have a question why do you run the bithutain vertical instead of horizontal? Less joints to worry about. I'm just curious. I would have log cabinet the corners too.
Make a drawing box / table, just a make shift thing, with a piano hinge and a lexan sheet to cover the drawings, then you can use board markers to make your notes. While protecting it from wind and rain...
Fairly new subscriber- I think what I’m most impressed by you guys is how you point out others’ good ideas and so intentionally build up the guys on your crew. What a great encouraging and honoring work environment you create! Learning a lot (building my own house currently) but just as blessed by your top notch videos.
When applying plastic sheeting vapor barrier over gravel you should use 8mil plastic. Preferably vapor barrier should be continuous however any overlap should be 24” in addition vapor barrier should be continuously sealed to foundation wall.
Geotextile fabric / petro-mat. We use it to prevent reflective cracking on asphalt. It's place with hot oil adhesive on too of old asphalt and sandwiched with a layer of new asphalt.
Glad you showed the Termite pre-treat, cool to see how its done over there. Australia has significantly more requirements for Termite Protection. We do plastic collars around drainage before slab is poured that key into the slab. As well as physical sheet product around the external perimeter. Older houses get a Termiticide Treated Zone around the perimeter. Thanks again for a great video
There should be a exterior perimeter treatment done when it's completed, after the "final grade is done", which is required by most states and most labels, which would be cool to see on camera.
We actually use a plastic 4x8 pre stamped piece that attaches to the inside of the form before you pour. Works very well. I'm in Cincinnati Ohio and that's how we do it . Looks great when painted. Like wallpaper.
Damn at this point Brock needs to start paying himself he's brought so much help to this project it's so cool to his skills and how that's sped alot of work up with the machines. Seems like a great guy no one deserves this kingdom of house than a hard working man like Brock.
Luv you guys, but on the exterior foam insulation putting 2x4 sheets together leaves a seam for the next set on top of the first 2x4 set. Wouldn't it be better to start with 2 2x4 first application, second layer start with 2x2 foam panel to offset the seams? Just thinking out loud.
Appreciate the Chain story. Tell your wife...excellent gift. Also, tell Bryce's parents good job. Great to see his work ethic. Looks like he never hesitates to do anything needed.
Back when I made that mat at Phillips Fibers they called it Petra Mat. Pretty sure smelling those Fibers heated was what kinda messed up my lungs. I enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work.
Not sure if it’s a tip or not but with your poly and getting little holes in it. We use road crush here not gravel, it gets super smooth and packs super hard and you never have to worry about accidental holes
Just sold a spec house mid construction that also had a speakeasy hidden behind a wall of bookcases. New owner decided that wasn’t enough and wanted to also make it a cigar room so we are currently looking at smoke eaters. Gotta love construction.
Since the purpose of this perimeter drain tile is to collect and convey, I think it should only have holes on one “side” (possibly several rows) and be installed with holes up.
Holes down. Water will rise into the pipe and because the inside of the pipe is an area of lower concentration vs the higher concentration outside of the pipe, the water will push through it to daylight.
Vapor barrier is for concrete to cure with the water in mix and not loose much to sub soil or aggregate, it also saves concrete in quantity and helps retain thin cement paste. Vapor barrier is not meant to moisture proof concrete.
Had an acquaintance build a house out of lumber he picked up at the dump that had been used as concrete forms and it was cheaper to throw it away than pay someone to clean it up. That was about 50 years ago 😂
That’s the first time I’ve seen a vapor barrier between the gravel and concrete. I’ve used drain tile around the footer. For basement water proofing, I used to do a liquid asphalt membrane with fiberglass board and pins using a Hilti gun. However, I never agreed with using the pins and hoping it self-healed, but our warranty covered it in the event of failure. I’ve never used bituthene.
You may want to get with your electricians before you pour. They might want to run some conduit or put in some sleeves in so they can get the feeders to the panel. IDK if you are going to do any framing in the safe room but they might want to put in some ceiling boxes in there as well so everything won't be surface mounted
We need a shirt with tournament math on it!!!! Also Jamie’s commentary while Eric was trying to get around the corner with the wheelbarrow had me laughing out loud.
Hello Perkins crew! It's always a pleasure to watch your amazing content. I am curious. What would be the final building cost according to your pricing?
@tmoss7122 - thanks! I had started planning it in my head at the 998k mark! I didn’t know how long it would take for them to get the official celebratory party together and wanted to make sure the 1 million subs mark was recognized! Grateful Arlo and PBB’s mom helped. The guys are the best, they made my home spectacular so they deserve extra attention and treats! Love ‘em to pieces!
Love your videos, entertaining as hell. But I have three cents: 1. I wouldn't mix the Bituthene layer with Flextape. Could be that the system still works, but using something like that in the non designed way leads almost always to problems 2. I would, like others already mentioned, glue the foam to the bitumen layer and let the single foam sheets overlap each other 3. There is currently no reinforcement for the concrete slab. Regardless if it's code or not I would use reinforcement because the ground is modelled and there will be for sure settlements Keep up the good work!
My tip for the geotextile would be to cut 2 foot widths of the end of the entire role so that you might have 100 metres at 2 feet wide. Easier to handle.
I liked Jay's tip ripping that piece of wood on the saw horse. But what do I when my father-in-law asks about the hole marks when return his saw horses?
Make sure yal wearing gl9ves when pulling them form boards they did get termites spray on them & if yal use them watch for the saw dust & your lungs ! Good video
It’s called a heat loss heat gain calculation to calculate the amount heat the building will lose based on construction material used as well as how much heat the building will gain(AC load) mostly based on windows solar heat gain which is then used to select HVAC equipment that will satisfy the load of the house (heat and AC)
The rod between the pours should be a greased slick rod, you do not want the two slabs tied together because they will tear and crack with any movement of the slab. Its purpose is to keep slabs level with each other. Rods should be 5/8" 2' O.C. They should be sawn because shearing them creates a burr that will hang up and defeat the purpose. Goodluck, I enjoy the channel a lot.
Sorry it's just in Cali we have to be quick at those kinds of details because when your done if you can save the stake great if not, it becomes trash, but we normally use the steel stakes that have a bunch of holes down the stake, but sometimes we run out or we need more bite, and the steel stakes sometimes are to short
*You guys are spending an enormous amount of time constructing this friggin' foundation ! At this rate gentlemen, it's going to take you 5 years to complete this project.*
I really like the idea of the exposed concrete walls inside and insulation on the exterior. R20 on those walls in Climate Zone 4 is A LOT. So I think it will be great. I’m not sure how it could ever be considered under insulated. Even if you’re in that small section of Climate zone 5, seems like a great option.
Huge thanks to BetterHelp for sponsoring our video! Use betterhelp.com/perkins to get started today!
If you have any questions about the brand relating to how the therapists are licensed, their privacy policy, or therapist compensation model, check out this FAQ: www.betterhelp.com/your-questions-answered/
NOPE
You guys are big enough that you REALLY need to be vetting who is sponsoring you. BetterHelp is a NOTORIOUSLY horrible company and I'm honestly disgusted that you think it's OK to push these companies without ANY background vetting. Go back to pushing tools where there is no risk of people actually dying from a bad product.
dont take betterhelp sponsor ships
BetterHelp is an instant unsubscribe. Not ok.
Cant believe you fell for the betterhelp scam
I feel inadequate, Brock’s bringing so much more to his build than I could 😂. Glad he has tools and mahteeriuhls to help you all out so much!
The lunch scene, too funny and absolutely took me back to lunch with crew during the Modern Retirement Home build!
Thanks to Jaime for helping me figure out a good time for us to come on site for the little celebration for y’all’s big achievement - sorry I spoiled the surprise for you.
You all are the best!
It was great to hear you were onsite! I hope you are enjoying your new home!!
@@louie-ami - thanks and very much a yes to enjoying my home. Though it’s taking longer to get it all together than I had hoped.
@@ramellesmith1520if it’s anything like my new home, you’ll be unpacking some things two years later. 😂
You are probably one of the best customers anyone could ask for.
@@Hobocreekfarm - that’s so kind of you to say ~
As a little tip, next time try to cover the upper joints of the first layer of thermal insulation with the second layer so no weak spots can arise here. A little recommendation from Germany. Love your content!
Yeah I was disappointed they didn't stagger the joints.
Risinger is very correct, you guys should use a dimple barrier. Delta or DMX has some very affordable large rolls, which provide great drainage from walls to weeping system, as well as maintaining a life long air gap to keep sub-grade moisture build-up at bay. Its just smart and super cheap insurance. We use it everywhere in Canada. It should min code in all jurisdictions in North America.
When I was a project manager we always place the bituthene horizontally. Start at the bottom then overlap the next sheet just like roofing felt or a wall membrane.
Amazed and impressed with the amount of physical labor y'all do. Hat's off from a lifelong office worker. Never miss an episode.
Observation and Question: one of the main benefits of something smelling bad (especially when it is bad for you) causes a natural "I should wear a mask or stay away from it" vs no smell and a false sense of security. If it is a chemical that kills bugs, and stays on the surface it dries on for 30 years....should wisdom prevail and wear some level of PPE?
Love your channel and want you and your families to enjoy you being around to the fullest!
Mega congratulations on hitting 1 million subscribers…I don’t remember how long I’ve been watching, but it was a ways before Jamie’s accident. I remember how courageous and accepting he was and how he chose to bear down to keep on keeping on. Another more recent moment was participating in and seeing the unbelievable retirement appreciation showered on Arlo. Though that gift was directed to Arlo, it feels like a clear thank you to the whole crew, the way you work together and the great content you produce twice per week.
PBB is always my 1st channel to check for new chapters and the channel I talk most about with my friends…
Someday…Bryson City, Cardinal Coffee…maybe a chance to say Hi…till then…thanks…A MILLION!!! 🎉🎉🎉
In colder climates like Minnesota where I live, it's better to insulate on the outside of basement walls. Two reasons: thermal mass and in the spring and early summer, the ground is still cold and I've seen condensation between the inside basement wall and fiberglass insulation. The insulation keeps the basement wall warm and prevents any condensation from forming.
Here in the uk, we put a soft sand down under the membrane to stop it getting perforated by the sub base.
we do the same in Cali U S A, we do use gravel if it's called for like around pool decks also in the mountains.
Here in Iowa, we use pea gravel in our basements for the base.
If the gravel is smooth enough and the plastic thick enough it won’t puncture. If it would it wouldn’t be a problem….
I was thinking the same, where is the sand blinding under that damp proof membrane! I do enjoy these videos but the lack of insulation and number of thermal bridges they have is hilarious from a UK perspective.
Why do anything? If you have any water penetrating material under it, the water will not flow in the pipe/french drain...
I was very happy to hear that you support mental health, as I struggle quite a bit with it myself
Stays in the soil for 30 years. what could go wrong with that, we have never ever messed up with other chemicals. :D
Yup, that’s crazy! Also, spraying that without a mask 😮 💯% micro droplets are being breathed in. No smell, we must be ok…
It’s likely just Boric Acid. So inert to humans, but crawling pests hate it.
For your MEGA project I would recommend you utilize "running dimensions". Find a point that translates from the foundation to the roof and make that point 0,0. As you go across the page, add the dimensions and at each dimension extension line write the accumulative value. If you take the time to do this for every single dimension, both in the "y" axis and the "x" axis, it will save you tons of time and heartache. I would be happy to provide you with an example.
@ 3:30 when the job is finished you should take those very used and dirty blueprints and frame each page individually and present them to the home owner as a gift.... you wont believe how special of a gift that will be...
Here in g'old Europe outside xps insulation below grade is standard for new builds. We usually do the full waterproofing using a bitumen-based paste, then glue the xps sheets over that using foam or more bitumen and then (as Matt said!) a layer of dimpled membrane to protect the insulation. The modern membranes are three-layered, inside is a sliding layer to prevent earth movement from ripping on the sheets, middle layer is the membrane (dimples face away from the wall) and the outside layer is a filtering fabric that allows surface water to drain quickly while preventing clogs.
This method is common in the US too. I think there are a few differences. Because our warmer winters (in the southern US) don't kill off all the insects, ground boring insects like termites and Ants can be a problem. Some types of exterior insulation systems work really well in colder climates, but have to be tweeked in the south because insects will bore/nest in the exterior insulation.
Some insulation like Rockwool/stonewool are insects resistant, while certain foams require additional protection.
I wish they’d use cap fasteners because that zip tape isn’t the best adherence to hydrostatic pressure
Something is very wrong with that since the dimples should be facing the insulation. You were putting it wrong for some reason. You can easily google it.
@@Davor_gradnja it actually depends on the situation. If you need a (and have one) drainage, facing the dimples away from the wall is the better approach. As mentioned, it should then have a filtering fabric attached to prevent clogging. If all you need is mechanical protection facing the dimples towards the wall can be ok too. But only with an additional sliding layer that prevents them from grabbing and tearing the insulation sheets when compacting the dirt.
@@DrMJJr it really only holds the sheets until backfill comes and presses them against the wall. I think every hole in the waterproofing layer is one too many. Relying on self-sealing properties is a bet I wouldn't take
If you don't protect that external insulation, nesting insects will just burrow into it and destroy it over time. Also seeing as your insulation bats don't have lapped edges the outer plastic layer will prevent water from seeping in between the joints.
You should be using a 10-15 mil poly for the sub-slab vapor barrier, the extra thickness keeps it from being punctured easily from working on it. Also, do you guys not have radon concerns in your area? Typically you would want to tape all the edges and seams to prevent radon seeping into living space.
They mentioned before this build is in a high-radon area. As you point out, that plastic will offer zero protection against that. (But that said, the American way of letting radon out through a pipe in the roof is just weird anyway. Radon is heavier than air, so in a windless area or on still days that radon will just flow out the pipe in the roof and down back over and into the house.)
@@-_James_- whats the american way of getting rid of radon?
@@TubeSurfer26 The method I've seen used in the past involves putting a sealed plastic barrier down in the basement with a pipe that then runs vertically up through the house to a vent in the roof. The idea being Radon (that's heavier than air, remember) can only escape up through the pipe. I'm sure that's not the only way they deal with Radon, and obviously that wouldn't work in houses without a crawlspace.
In this build if I were doing it (and I'm a software engineer, not a builder, so anything I do will be seriously over engineered), I would have started with a Radon barrier under the walls they've cast (concrete is not airtight, remember). I would then have sealed and wrapped the outsides of those walls with a radon barrier behind the insulation, and continued it under the gravel and pipes they've put down so there's zero possibility for Radon to enter any part of the house in the first place. That safe room they're building will just fill up with Radon without serious ventilation to circulate the air continuously.
The radon system has access into that area below the vapor barrier. It is powered with a fan to create a slight vacuum underground where the radon is, and exfiltrate it outside the house.
My guys!!! Be kind to each other. Stay safe. Love to all
Look into slingers , it would deliver the drainrock at the pipe with no wheelbarrowing , Peter
What a great visual of impact on the Community. Romelle (sp?), former client, comes to celebrate 1M subscribers.
Try the Expol EX1300 Hot Wire polystyrene cutter - cuts the polystyrene without all the mess being created by a saw.
I love watching you guys work, all the way from New Zealand 🇳🇿!
Watching your video , with my morning coffee .
I do a lot of ComChecks at my office and boy are they a good time. I do mostly commercial work, but the IECC does have prescriptive values for insulation base on climate zone. This includes foundation walls. Also, i probably would have staggered those joints vertically as well as horizontally. The dimple board is really beneficial to help alleviate hydrostatic pressure on foundation walls. Probably would have been a good idea to incorporate given the rain and the houses location on that slope.
We always design French drains with a full burrito wrap, you can get mud migrating in from all sides. Besides, you’re going to burry it, it’s not like you can go in and fix it. I’m in the midden if doing one for a motel right now.
Sounds like a Mexican drain ;-)
It's going to be interesting how long this build will take. What is great, the homeowner will have this to reference back to, but see the journey. Well done guys
Jaime take over! Need more. Maybe a day in the life/ behind the scenes outside work.
Awesome stuff as always!
I have a question why do you run the bithutain vertical instead of horizontal? Less joints to worry about. I'm just curious. I would have log cabinet the corners too.
Make a drawing box / table, just a make shift thing, with a piano hinge and a lexan sheet to cover the drawings, then you can use board markers to make your notes. While protecting it from wind and rain...
❤
Just finished an 18-hour work day. This is the perfect way to wind down and relax
Fairly new subscriber- I think what I’m most impressed by you guys is how you point out others’ good ideas and so intentionally build up the guys on your crew. What a great encouraging and honoring work environment you create! Learning a lot (building my own house currently) but just as blessed by your top notch videos.
When applying plastic sheeting vapor barrier over gravel you should use 8mil plastic. Preferably vapor barrier should be continuous however any overlap should be 24” in addition vapor barrier should be continuously sealed to foundation wall.
Geotextile fabric / petro-mat. We use it to prevent reflective cracking on asphalt. It's place with hot oil adhesive on too of old asphalt and sandwiched with a layer of new asphalt.
Nice to see Romelle make a cameo ❤️🤙
@@fuegoman45 - thank you!
Glad you showed the Termite pre-treat, cool to see how its done over there. Australia has significantly more requirements for Termite Protection. We do plastic collars around drainage before slab is poured that key into the slab. As well as physical sheet product around the external perimeter.
Older houses get a Termiticide Treated Zone around the perimeter. Thanks again for a great video
There should be a exterior perimeter treatment done when it's completed, after the "final grade is done", which is required by most states and most labels, which would be cool to see on camera.
Oh you released a free video for me to watch? Thank you.
You bet!
Yes, video in the new office finally . 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
We actually use a plastic 4x8 pre stamped piece that attaches to the inside of the form before you pour. Works very well. I'm in Cincinnati Ohio and that's how we do it . Looks great when painted. Like wallpaper.
I went to school before calculators and i often used the method described here as "flow math". I love it!
Damn at this point Brock needs to start paying himself he's brought so much help to this project it's so cool to his skills and how that's sped alot of work up with the machines. Seems like a great guy no one deserves this kingdom of house than a hard working man like Brock.
Part 17 and the foundation isn’t poured!! Damn you, Perkins brothers! You have me hooked!!
Brock should think about putting that boulder in the middle of his yard/garden when the house is done. Like a souvenir.
I love the Starwars swipe transitions between shots. I don't know why but it's very enjoyable.
Luv you guys, but on the exterior foam insulation putting 2x4 sheets together leaves a seam for the next set on top of the first 2x4 set. Wouldn't it be better to start with 2 2x4 first application, second layer start with 2x2 foam panel to offset the seams? Just thinking out loud.
Thanks for building with us "Chase!" 🎉💐🇺🇸📿✨️
Appreciate the Chain story. Tell your wife...excellent gift.
Also, tell Bryce's parents good job. Great to see his work ethic. Looks like he never hesitates to do anything needed.
Back when I made that mat at Phillips Fibers they called it Petra Mat. Pretty sure smelling those Fibers heated was what kinda messed up my lungs. I enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work.
Congratz to the 1mill, thanks for building.
Not sure if it’s a tip or not but with your poly and getting little holes in it. We use road crush here not gravel, it gets super smooth and packs super hard and you never have to worry about accidental holes
I did 2” rigid foam and then the vapor barrier. Get the benefit of under slab insulation and a smooth layer for the vapor barrier.
Just sold a spec house mid construction that also had a speakeasy hidden behind a wall of bookcases. New owner decided that wasn’t enough and wanted to also make it a cigar room so we are currently looking at smoke eaters. Gotta love construction.
I have built many huge high end homes here is Los Angeles and my current project is the very first one with a "Speakeasy" ....
Thank you for sharing your expertise
Since the purpose of this perimeter drain tile is to collect and convey, I think it should only have holes on one “side” (possibly several rows) and be installed with holes up.
Holes down. Water will rise into the pipe and because the inside of the pipe is an area of lower concentration vs the higher concentration outside of the pipe, the water will push through it to daylight.
@@macgyver03ga Interesting and non-intuitive… this seems worthy of letting Jamie talk.
You want the holes down.
Third. Holes down.
What an epic build!!!
I,m not a builder but in the UK on top of the gravel base we use what is called a blinding of sand to protect the D.P.C. from being punctured.
Vapor barrier is for concrete to cure with the water in mix and not loose much to sub soil or aggregate, it also saves concrete in quantity and helps retain thin cement paste. Vapor barrier is not meant to moisture proof concrete.
Hi there, outstanding videos, in the United Kingdom we put a sand blinding over the sub base and then lay the vapour layer it stops any punctures
That’s a good idea. I used rigid foam since I wanted an insulated slab but it also creates a very nice surface to lay your vapor barrier.
In the UK we have to put a layer of sand between the gravel and the membrane to prevent the issue you showed.
Max proving his value with that voluntary swap of barrow duties. Keep this man on your roster for sure!
Great job!
Can’t wait for the framing to start. Keep up the good work gentleman
Had an acquaintance build a house out of lumber he picked up at the dump that had been used as concrete forms and it was cheaper to throw it away than pay someone to clean it up. That was about 50 years ago 😂
Love your channel ! Congrats on 1,000,000 subs. You guys work hard,u deserve it !!! God bless u guys....work safe
so evident you guys are all family
Watching from the Philippines🇵🇭
That’s the first time I’ve seen a vapor barrier between the gravel and concrete. I’ve used drain tile around the footer. For basement water proofing, I used to do a liquid asphalt membrane with fiberglass board and pins using a Hilti gun. However, I never agreed with using the pins and hoping it self-healed, but our warranty covered it in the event of failure. I’ve never used bituthene.
You may want to get with your electricians before you pour. They might want to run some conduit or put in some sleeves in so they can get the feeders to the panel. IDK if you are going to do any framing in the safe room but they might want to put in some ceiling boxes in there as well so everything won't be surface mounted
You guys should skim the inside of those walls with ardex TWP and spray a sealer like ardex CG.
I love the exposed concrete look. Great choice.
Love the safety Crocs, wish they would make a composite version.👍🏝️🇨🇦
We need a shirt with tournament math on it!!!!
Also Jamie’s commentary while Eric was trying to get around the corner with the wheelbarrow had me laughing out loud.
Hello Perkins crew! It's always a pleasure to watch your amazing content.
I am curious. What would be the final building cost according to your pricing?
Yay, a Ramelle cameo!!!
With Arlo, it’s like a double shot.
@tmoss7122 - thanks! I had started planning it in my head at the 998k mark! I didn’t know how long it would take for them to get the official celebratory party together and wanted to make sure the 1 million subs mark was recognized! Grateful Arlo and PBB’s mom helped. The guys are the best, they made my home spectacular so they deserve extra attention and treats! Love ‘em to pieces!
@@ramellesmith1520 that was so thoughtful and kind of you!
@@jmazoso - so glad Arlo said he’d help with the celebration!
@@tmoss7122 - it’s not hard when it involves PBB and crew! And bonus for me I got a PBB and crew fix!
You guys should do a imperial wall finish with vermiculite and concrete mix
Enjoyable to watch ..... always.
Love your videos, entertaining as hell.
But I have three cents:
1. I wouldn't mix the Bituthene layer with Flextape. Could be that the system still works, but using something like that in the non designed way leads almost always to problems
2. I would, like others already mentioned, glue the foam to the bitumen layer and let the single foam sheets overlap each other
3. There is currently no reinforcement for the concrete slab. Regardless if it's code or not I would use reinforcement because the ground is modelled and there will be for sure settlements
Keep up the good work!
The fabric for the french drain is called geotextile.
There are also a couple kinds. I’d recommend a non-woven geotextile.
Happy Sunday morning guys! KUTGW
Congrats on the Million Subscribers!!! Always enjoy your content!!
"Talk to me again like that on camera and you'll be underground" - legit laughed out loud hahahah 11:07
Yeah, that was a window into the “real” relationships.
@@jefff6167 I think they miiiiight have been joking around Jeff, don't worry about it lmao
@@jefff6167 Nothing is ever real eh?
My tip for the geotextile would be to cut 2 foot widths of the end of the entire role so that you might have 100 metres at 2 feet wide. Easier to handle.
“I call Matt Risinger to get advice on several questions we had. But we chose not to do any of them.” Haha
Jamie, they make doors that are actually hidden. Looks like a bookcase. They are called Murphy doors just like the Murphy bed.
I liked Jay's tip ripping that piece of wood on the saw horse.
But what do I when my father-in-law asks about the hole marks when return his saw horses?
Wow!!!! A million subscribers!!!!! Congratulations!!!!!🎉🎈🎊🍾
Love your show. Why did you put the drain pipe higher than the basement floor, rather than right down on the footer?
Make sure yal wearing gl9ves when pulling them form boards they did get termites spray on them & if yal use them watch for the saw dust & your lungs ! Good video
Love the crocs Jamie
It’s called a heat loss heat gain calculation to calculate the amount heat the building will lose based on construction material used as well as how much heat the building will gain(AC load) mostly based on windows solar heat gain which is then used to select HVAC equipment that will satisfy the load of the house (heat and AC)
Happy Sunday everyone! First my watch told me I actually slept 8 hours which hasn’t happened in over 20 years 😂 and then the latest Perkins video!
Pro tip for Ray: if you have to hand cut rigid foam insulation, a pull saw works way better than a dry wall saw.
No. Use a utility blade and then break it like drywall by putting pressure right behind the cut. Works every time.
@@trevorhardy3544 Maybe for a mid sheet cut. Ray was attempting to cut approximately 1/2".
Hey Perkins, by code the French drain should be footing level not the wall FYI
The rod between the pours should be a greased slick rod, you do not want the two slabs tied together because they will tear and crack with any movement of the slab. Its purpose is to keep slabs level with each other. Rods should be 5/8" 2' O.C. They should be sawn because shearing them creates a burr that will hang up and defeat the purpose. Goodluck, I enjoy the channel a lot.
Interesting job!!
Just a thought but could you have used the foam that you use between concrete and sill plate to cushion the pipes?
Sorry it's just in Cali we have to be quick at those kinds of details because when your done if you can save the stake great if not, it becomes trash, but we normally use the steel stakes that have a bunch of holes down the stake, but sometimes we run out or we need more bite, and the steel stakes sometimes are to short
In Australia we have metric mm. So easy when a wall thickens change. But I also know foot & inches as I’m soooo old I had both. Haha
*You guys are spending an enormous amount of time constructing this friggin' foundation ! At this rate gentlemen, it's going to take you 5 years to complete this project.*
14:00 pretty sure you should be running that membrane horizontally rather than vertically.
Congrats on the Million. Now don't change...
I really like the idea of the exposed concrete walls inside and insulation on the exterior. R20 on those walls in Climate Zone 4 is A LOT. So I think it will be great. I’m not sure how it could ever be considered under insulated. Even if you’re in that small section of Climate zone 5, seems like a great option.
Wouldn’t the foam deteriorate over time on the outside like that? I’m new to all this and just wondering. Love the videos