I can tell ya how to fix it without taking apart anything and it's free! Make sure your it's showing his many miles are on the car,Not on trip, turn off car hold in the reset button beside odometer and turn ignition switch while holding in button, do not start car, let it run through the codes until its back to mileage then release button. Everything will recalibrate after this you should be good. Your welcome.
This will not work on an gen1/2 MR2 tach/speedo like the one in the video. Those old gauges are conventional analog circuits, they don't have any smarts built into them. You can't select trip or odometer since it's not digital, the reset button is a mechanical device not connected to any part of the circuit.
I agree with earlier post. The instrument panel does not easily pop out. I had to remove plastic gear shift cover as it clips into ashtray section. The connector for the speedometer is a bear to disconnect as I had to stretch the cable to it's max and still barely could get my hand back behind the cluster to remove, The clip is different for the speedometer. You have to squeeze the connection at the back of the connector to get it to release on my 91 Turbo. Whole job took 2 hours but all
thanks for the vid. Used it to fix tachometer on a Toyota Starlet GT. Bought the replacement items on Amazon and now it works like a charm. I took out the aftermarket one at the same time too.
My tach is reporting about half as many rpm as it should. Will new caps fix that? ...I already had to replace caps in the ECU from stuck on injectors so I suspect this is likely the cause.
N.P. does not mean 'negative pole' it means Non-Polarised, so if you want the repair to last you need to buy a non polarised type of capacitor to replace it with. This is quite an important difference if you want a lasting repair.
Graham you are absolutely right! Thank you for this comment, I had no idea. They are apparently made out of a different material as well stuck as Mica or ceramic and dont use an electrolyte like polarized ones do. Again appreciate your comment, I would have never known.
The gauge cluster DOESN'T just "Pop" out like that. It's a royal pain to get your hand behind it to get the wires loose.I hope you have very small hands!
Jim V thanks man. Yea sorry about the editing that was one of our early videos. Not a good excuse since we're not much better now. Working on it though . More Mr2 videos coming once it gets warmer out. Hopefully better edited.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
I can tell ya how to fix it without taking apart anything and it's free! Make sure your it's showing his many miles are on the car,Not on trip, turn off car hold in the reset button beside odometer and turn ignition switch while holding in button, do not start car, let it run through the codes until its back to mileage then release button. Everything will recalibrate after this you should be good. Your welcome.
This will not work on an gen1/2 MR2 tach/speedo like the one in the video. Those old gauges are conventional analog circuits, they don't have any smarts built into them. You can't select trip or odometer since it's not digital, the reset button is a mechanical device not connected to any part of the circuit.
Also if the cap is burnt out it’s not gonna work regardless
Thank you for the straight forward video, no bs intros and unnecessary talking.
I agree with earlier post. The instrument panel does not easily pop out. I had to remove plastic gear shift cover as it clips into ashtray section. The connector for the speedometer is a bear to disconnect as I had to stretch the cable to it's max and still barely could get my hand back behind the cluster to remove, The clip is different for the speedometer. You have to squeeze the connection at the back of the connector to get it to release on my 91 Turbo. Whole job took 2 hours but all
Thanks for this. The speedo in my SW is wildly over-reading so I may as well do the tacho while I'm in there.
thanks for the vid. Used it to fix tachometer on a Toyota Starlet GT. Bought the replacement items on Amazon and now it works like a charm. I took out the aftermarket one at the same time too.
I need to do this for my mr2 tach, the capacitors came in the post yesterday I appreciate this video just in time!
Did you fix it?
What voltage are the tach capacitors???
My tach is reporting about half as many rpm as it should. Will new caps fix that? ...I already had to replace caps in the ECU from stuck on injectors so I suspect this is likely the cause.
Yes.. this means they are bad
N.P. does not mean 'negative pole' it means Non-Polarised, so if you want the repair to last you need to buy a non polarised type of capacitor to replace it with.
This is quite an important difference if you want a lasting repair.
Graham you are absolutely right! Thank you for this comment, I had no idea. They are apparently made out of a different material as well stuck as Mica or ceramic and dont use an electrolyte like polarized ones do. Again appreciate your comment, I would have never known.
Does non polarized mean the orientation of the capacitor doesn't matter?
@@jinxtacy yes
can you post what the actual problem was with that spdo please be specific.
keep up the good work and thanks for more sw20 content
Are the Tach capacitors running at 35V as well, or 25V?
Does the capacitors always goes bad first? I have a mitsubishi pajero and the tach is not working... I hope this is the solution to my problem😄
The negative is facing....wish I knew where the negative was facing on the 2nd one you did.
It would have been rocket science in the '60's lol
The gauge cluster DOESN'T just "Pop" out like that. It's a royal pain to get your hand behind it to get the wires loose.I hope you have very small hands!
Thank you for info.
Hi.. is it still working?
Weird. The one that burnt out on my car is the 100 uF @ 25v. It is easy to see the 25v . so where did the 35v come from?
the factory capacitor is rated for 25v he simply replaced it with a unit with a higher rating. No harm
Bro good vid, but that editing was brutal to sit through.
Jim V thanks man. Yea sorry about the editing that was one of our early videos. Not a good excuse since we're not much better now. Working on it though . More Mr2 videos coming once it gets warmer out. Hopefully better edited.
was good to me. got the point across and now i know how to do it. superfluous editing gets annoying
Blessthefall?
you can use 16 volt caps.... the car is only 12 volts
dude your videos are awesome but the music in the background is killing me
and by music i mean the metal in the background. and i like metal its just so fuzzy. in the last video i could barely hear your voice
lol true.
was speedo still faulty?it went up to 20k at the end