I don't have a fancy angle grinder, but I have a Baldor grinder with a diamond wheel. I have printed a 3D 8 Degree Wedge (plastic) for the face and a 3 degree wedge for the sides and intend to save and resharpen my inserts as well. I appreciate your efforts to "recycle" - good job - thanks!
Awesome job Allan. I'm just in the middle of a rebuild on a bench/pedestal grinder from the early 30s. As the left side work table was missing I decided to make one that would work with a diamond wheel I hadn't even thought about the possibility of sharpening still in the tool, let alone the holder. I think I have to re-evaluate my design...
I'm pleased that someone else does this! I have been using the Sandvik 151 series parting off tools for years (preferably with the -5E geometry) and just use one of those plastic handles with a small square of diamond material on the end (usually called hones - rightly or wrongly - for knife sharpening). I just rub them around the corners of the front face to sharpen up the corners and they really do cut well again. Of course you loose the Ti N coating, but for home lathe use, I don't think that it makes any difference or matters at all.
Thanks for sharing.. Those inserts can be pricey. Looks like side sharpening did help, but any more side sharpening might start cutting into the holder.. Good job ! That is a mighty handy sharpening station..
Very nice set up there Allan. I sharpen inserts and brazed tooling by hand with a diamond whetstone - up until now I have got away with it. I have found that the diamond whetstone cuts carbide very quickly and beautifully smooth, so it only takes a few strokes to get the edge back again. The manufactures of the whetstone suggest using water as a lubricant but I found mineral turpentine does a much better job.
If you can cut the main leading cutting edge with a concave look, You will find it should cut even better, Also if you can stone the top of the insert, That will also make a difference, If you have a green wheel for carbide . Using a small wheel round it off or V it, so one can sharpen that front edge, in the middle, do not touch the outer corners. Makes a considerable difference, It doesn't take much of a cut to notice the difference, always better than a flat cutting edge.
I definitely need to buy myself a diamond wheel too, it looks like it made a quite big difference. I would run a bit faster and with heavier feed though... They tend to cut better then. I think they are made not very sharp from the beginning so they don't break because you're suppose to use them with heavy feed in a CNC machine.
What grit are you using for your wheel? I only have my mini lathe so was thinking of making an adjustable table platform for sharpening carbide from the quick change toolpost. Thanks for the video.
the most correct way to sharpen a carbide insert is to sharpen it from the surface .. not sides or not front . just sharpen the surface .. at least it will decrease the inserts width with only 0.03mm and will keep the cutting angular ...
Nice job! I am curious if you put a bit of angle on the sharpened bit so the right side cut through first. If not you might want to think about doing that.
You are running thru that cold roll.? like I part off Aluminum! I just got my 4" 600 grit cup diamond wheel in today and sharpened an old insert and it cut a Mosin Nagant Barrel off like butter!....Thanx for the info mate! G>
Hi Tom I had a look at my wheel and the markings have rubbed off. I don't think the wheel has a grit size it's made up from diamond particles.have a look at this video it shows the wheel when new and making the holder th-cam.com/video/dtEOz1AESp4/w-d-xo.html
I've been looking at a few lathe videos recently and am puzzled at how many don't use a coolant or a lubricant. What a difference a drop of oil made, shouldn't something be used every time?
Hi Richard You may have noticed if the machine is a C.N.C. The cutting tool will be enclosed and coolant is used to reduce the temperature of the tools cutting edge and thus improve the tool life and finish. The speeds and feeds can be set to maximum to produce components quickly and enclosing the machine helps to reduce the (mist) that's produced from entering the workshop air. Which you are breathing. A manual lathe is normally open and you don't push the tool to its maximum but using coolant may still produce a mist in the work shop. This results in extra work keeping the coolant tank free from bacteria and regular cleaning of the tank fluid. For that reason I don't use coolant but I do use some oil on a brush from time to time but check your not producing clouds of smoke to breath in. When cutting aluminium I use WD40 to reduce the chance of the tool tip welding to the aluminium, which will always happen on your finishing cut and spoil the finish. Insert tooling can take a little more heat and oil can cool it down. If it gets too hot time for a tea or coffee. Regards Alan
can anybody tel me how you put a Parting Off Carbide Inserts in to the tool as mine has no screw to tighten it up it just seems to slot in how far do you put it in do I bang it in please help i push it in and it comes out with a pull of my fingers I am new to all this please help
Hi Jack I am assuming that you have the blade type holder which has an insert pushed into a slot set at an angle with the tip facing up. I've never used on of these but first is it the correct tip for the holder you may find they come in different widths if that's ok I think you have to tap the insert in lightly just to get it to hold use something like a copper hammer.When the tool starts to cut it should press the tip further into the holder as more force is applied.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't have a fancy angle grinder, but I have a Baldor grinder with a diamond wheel. I have printed a 3D 8 Degree Wedge (plastic) for the face and a 3 degree wedge for the sides and intend to save and resharpen my inserts as well. I appreciate your efforts to "recycle" - good job - thanks!
Awesome job Allan. I'm just in the middle of a rebuild on a bench/pedestal grinder from the early 30s. As the left side work table was missing I decided to make one that would work with a diamond wheel
I hadn't even thought about the possibility of sharpening still in the tool, let alone the holder. I think I have to re-evaluate my design...
I'm pleased that someone else does this! I have been using the Sandvik 151 series parting off tools for years (preferably with the -5E geometry) and just use one of those plastic handles with a small square of diamond material on the end (usually called hones - rightly or wrongly - for knife sharpening). I just rub them around the corners of the front face to sharpen up the corners and they really do cut well again. Of course you loose the Ti N coating, but for home lathe use, I don't think that it makes any difference or matters at all.
Thanks for sharing.. Those inserts can be pricey. Looks like side sharpening did help, but any more side sharpening might start cutting into the holder.. Good job ! That is a mighty handy sharpening station..
Nice improvement, thanks for sharing 😀. Cheers
Very nice set up there Allan. I sharpen inserts and brazed tooling by hand with a diamond whetstone - up until now I have got away with it. I have found that the diamond whetstone cuts carbide very quickly and beautifully smooth, so it only takes a few strokes to get the edge back again. The manufactures of the whetstone suggest using water as a lubricant but I found mineral turpentine does a much better job.
Hi Robert thanks for the tip
What grit stone are you using?
Very interesting video thanks for sharing Allan 👏🏻👍🏻
Been regrinding carbide parting off tips for years for a local engineering shop for years
If you can cut the main leading cutting edge with a concave look, You will find it should cut even better,
Also if you can stone the top of the insert, That will also make a difference,
If you have a green wheel for carbide .
Using a small wheel round it off or V it, so one can sharpen that front edge, in the middle, do not touch the outer corners.
Makes a considerable difference, It doesn't take much of a cut to notice the difference, always better than a flat cutting edge.
I definitely need to buy myself a diamond wheel too, it looks like it made a quite big difference. I would run a bit faster and with heavier feed though... They tend to cut better then. I think they are made not very sharp from the beginning so they don't break because you're suppose to use them with heavy feed in a CNC machine.
What grit are you using for your wheel? I only have my mini lathe so was thinking of making an adjustable table platform for sharpening carbide from the quick change toolpost. Thanks for the video.
the most correct way to sharpen a carbide insert is to sharpen it from the surface .. not sides or not front . just sharpen the surface .. at least it will decrease the inserts width with only 0.03mm and will keep the cutting angular ...
Nice job! I am curious if you put a bit of angle on the sharpened bit so the right side cut through first. If not you might want to think about doing that.
Save yourself a fortune…nice work…
You are running thru that cold roll.? like I part off Aluminum! I just got my 4" 600 grit cup diamond wheel in today and sharpened an old insert and it cut a Mosin Nagant Barrel off like butter!....Thanx for the info mate! G>
What grit is your diamond wheel?
Hi Tom I had a look at my wheel and the markings have rubbed off. I don't think the wheel has a grit size it's made up from diamond particles.have a look at this video it shows the wheel when new and making the holder th-cam.com/video/dtEOz1AESp4/w-d-xo.html
I've been looking at a few lathe videos recently and am puzzled at how many don't use a coolant or a lubricant. What a difference a drop of oil made, shouldn't something be used every time?
Hi Richard
You may have noticed if the machine is a C.N.C. The cutting tool will be enclosed and coolant is used to reduce the temperature of the tools cutting edge and thus improve the tool life and finish. The speeds and feeds can be set to maximum to produce components quickly and enclosing the machine helps to reduce the (mist) that's produced from entering the workshop air. Which you are breathing. A manual lathe is normally open and you don't push the tool to its maximum but using coolant may still produce a mist in the work shop. This results in extra work keeping the coolant tank free from bacteria and regular cleaning of the tank fluid. For that reason I don't use coolant but I do use some oil on a brush from time to time but check your not producing clouds of smoke to breath in. When cutting aluminium I use WD40 to reduce the chance of the tool tip welding to the aluminium, which will always happen on your finishing cut and spoil the finish. Insert tooling can take a little more heat and oil can cool it down. If it gets too hot time for a tea or coffee.
Regards
Alan
What oil are you using as a lubricant? And do you use the same for different materials? Cheers
I use the oil I have left over from my car service (car engine oil) I also use it as a lubricant for the lathe.
enots engineering Thanks, I have watched so many videos and loads seem to use expensive oils, glad to know the cheap stuff works as well 😀. Cheers
can anybody tel me how you put a Parting Off Carbide Inserts in to the tool as mine has no screw to tighten it up it just seems to slot in how far do you put it in do I bang it in please help i push it in and it comes out with a pull of my fingers I am new to all this please help
Hi Jack I am assuming that you have the blade type holder which has an insert pushed into a slot set at an angle with the tip facing up.
I've never used on of these but first is it the correct tip for the holder you may find they come in different widths if that's ok I think you have to tap the insert in lightly just to get it to hold use something like a copper hammer.When the tool starts to cut it should press the tip further into the holder as more force is applied.
@@enotsengineering thank you for you help this answer my question i got the tool and inset together just couldn't get my head around it thanks again.
way to slow…