I just used a door jamb on my American Civil War sabre from 1864 with a carbon steel blade that had a slight bend near the tip. Flexing ever so slightly in the opposite direction - until viola! Go slowly until strait while looking down the spine of the blade. Thanks for sharing this, Walter...
Great build, Walter! What about using something cheap and plentiful like PVC pipe versus expensive and scarce delrin? It would save some drilling, too.
Watching Forged in Fire it always baffles me that the competitors don't have a couple of pieces of angle iron sitting in a vise ready to go when they quench. Even if the knife is fairly straight what would it hurt to clamp it in there for a minute or two. The other thing that surprises me is when the contestants are free to choose their own handle material, that they choose anything besides linen micarta. It's the ideal material to use. It doesn't crack and fragment like almost everything else. It's the reinforced concrete of the handle material world.
temper. the clamp straight and temper hotter. If needed, do that one more time. After that, this sort of tool comes in for anything left (my personal approach). but, I am not Walter, so take it for what it is worth.
Like Donorcyclist said wouldn't using PVC instead of Delrin be more cost effective since even if the PVC breaks it isn't hard to find more to replace it?
What if you have an integral bolster, or perhaps widened your choil or any other mod that creates a thicker profile in one spot? Or perhaps you forged in a distal taper? The plates don't work in those instances.
Wait wait wait… WHAT?!! If your sword is bending and needs straightened you’ve got pile of crap for a sword and you need a sword that has been forged correctly and doesn’t bend when flexed.
@@spurgear Composition is irrelevant if properly forged for that composition. It’s how good it works when done. If it bends or breaks it crap. Ever watch Forged in Fire on the history channel? Done right this shouldn’t happen. If it keeps happening wrong composition!
He's not talking about blades which bend when they are used. He's talking about blades which warp during the quench. This is common, even with excellent quality blades.
I just used a door jamb on my American Civil War sabre from 1864 with a carbon steel blade that had a slight bend near the tip.
Flexing ever so slightly in the opposite direction - until viola!
Go slowly until strait while looking down the spine of the blade.
Thanks for sharing this, Walter...
You make beautiful swords sir .
Great build, Walter! What about using something cheap and plentiful like PVC pipe versus expensive and scarce delrin? It would save some drilling, too.
Great production value in these videos
I would imagine this rig would come in handy after mat cutting!
Watching Forged in Fire it always baffles me that the competitors don't have a couple of pieces of angle iron sitting in a vise ready to go when they quench.
Even if the knife is fairly straight what would it hurt to clamp it in there for a minute or two.
The other thing that surprises me is when the contestants are free to choose their own handle material, that they choose anything besides linen micarta. It's the ideal material to use. It doesn't crack and fragment like almost everything else. It's the reinforced concrete of the handle material world.
thank you Walter. great video as always.
Clever tool Walter!
When do you straighten the blade? After hardening and before tempering or after tempering the blade? What about clamping during tempering?
Definitely after tempering because if you did it before, you’d simply shatter your blade
temper. the clamp straight and temper hotter. If needed, do that one more time. After that, this sort of tool comes in for anything left (my personal approach). but, I am not Walter, so take it for what it is worth.
Like Donorcyclist said wouldn't using PVC instead of Delrin be more cost effective since even if the PVC breaks it isn't hard to find more to replace it?
Top notch as always!
Thanks
Great solution!
Thanks for sharing!
Bladesmith in japan also apply this technique to straighten the sword when bend.
Nice rig
Hi Great idea Question Can a 2.5mm thin long blade with difficulty 60 HRC after relaxation can align with this device? Thanks
That looks like an awesome tool. There ought to be a non-plastic version so you can do it with hot steel.
Hot steel gets straightened on the anvil
Well, technically you could just take the plastic covers off of it for that type of use...
Very cool tool ;)
Hey Walter what is your specific trade, did you start with Smithing or machining?
Guy's a writer. Yup. No shit mate
@@lordsirio5517 Lol I probably should have proof read that question first however, I was just waking up and grabbing coffee. 😆🤣😂
When I first saw your hand @ 3:17, I thought you'd had a spilled Dykem incident 🥴
How ironic my blade bent in heat treat last night lol thanks
I always throw my pieces between two flat pieces of aluminum right off the bat. solves problem before it begins.
What if you have an integral bolster, or perhaps widened your choil or any other mod that creates a thicker profile in one spot? Or perhaps you forged in a distal taper? The plates don't work in those instances.
Too bad this is not a solution foe beginer like me 😵🤦♂️
Still.. you are the best Walter!
Another over engineered and overly complicated tool. Use the hydraulic press with a couple of blocks!
some people like building tools.
Dude you talk tooooo much..stop self promoting
Wait wait wait… WHAT?!! If your sword is bending and needs straightened you’ve got pile of crap for a sword and you need a sword that has been forged correctly and doesn’t bend when flexed.
San Mai blades are prone to be because of their mixed composition
@@spurgear Composition is irrelevant if properly forged for that composition. It’s how good it works when done. If it bends or breaks it crap. Ever watch Forged in Fire on the history channel? Done right this shouldn’t happen. If it keeps happening wrong composition!
I would guess most people watching this channel are home amateurs and don't have the time or money to redo an entire project.
It’s very common to get slight warps after quenching. It doesn’t mean it’s crap. Just the nature of the shock from rapidly cooling steel.
He's not talking about blades which bend when they are used. He's talking about blades which warp during the quench. This is common, even with excellent quality blades.