You did a great job - the only thing I would have done is cut a wedge on the compression side so it could have a hinge and might open more slowly. You did fine as a normal dude cutting down windfall.
Doesn't matter how much wood you cut.. uprooted trees are sketchy AF. Thanks for taking me along for the ride. I've got a big beech that uprooted downhill and i'm brainstorming ways to deal with it. Probably going to chain the root ball back for extra security. Its right on that line of "will it go back into its hole or want to roll downhill" I'll work it tip-down and see if Incan get a read on it.
For sure sketchy. I just try to not die as best as I can. Some are easier than others, but I always see the potential of what could go wrong. I'm always ready to ditch my saw and haul ass. I'm lucky to have a pretty flat yard. I wish you success in your cuts.
You did a fine job. I'm sure you learned a bit more since this video. A little fear is a healthy thing to have. You should never have too much as long as there is experience.
Your attack on the cut was absolutely perfect. The only thing wrong was your saw. the chain was way to tight even before you started your cut. A properly tightened chain should have only a little snap to it when you pull down on it. Also you should be able to move the chain forward and backward by hand, but with the saw not running. The key to that situation is being able to rev your saw and keep up the chain speed until the trunk breaks free. You did a great job, just get a little more aggressive on your cut. I've been cutting trees for over forty years professionally , so again good job. Stay safe.
Couple of points from someone who has (unfortunately) done this a few times. For the first cuts, you'd notch it on the top (maybe a third of the way through) and start to finish it on the bottom.......but at some point (as you discovered) the script will get switched (i.e. the top side will open up and the bottom will become the pinch side). It's hard to know when that will happen....so I use some wedges to help the saw from getting pinched. Always have a standby saw/bar for this kind of work.....'cause it's hard to be right. Something else: that looked like a well maintained area. If (later on) you are planning on removing the stump....when it is uprooted like that is a ideal time to set it up for that. For starters, you can strip off the dirt from the backside.....then maybe trim back the roots where you are certain the saw won't hit dirt. It's all about getting that hole filled with available dirt.....and cutting down on the weight of the stump that has to be hauled. Also, if removal is the plan, cut any roots you can so that there is less resistance to being pulled out. But overall: nice job.
Ya did good. Good plan,, proper amount of fear, respect for the weight of the trunk and root ball. Next time,, the initial up cut. Plant or mark your feet where they are,, that gives you the best alignment of matching up with down cuts. and mostly,, on the down cut give a very slight diagonal down toward the root ball. Always err the intersectionon the side of the bole. Just a couple of degrees is fine,, because the bole is going to fall and the root ball stump is going up,, OFTEN violently. Your blade won't pinch if you use a slight diagonal.
@@doinstuffwithzane No, you did very well. For general use I would recommend a much shorter bar. You can cut from both sides, takes a bit more skill, but heck of a lot easier to handle. I own two bars usually an 18 or 20 and my long one is a 24 I can cut down basically anything less than 4.5 foot diameter with a 24. Firewood production a 20 will do almost anything and it requires half the strength of the 24. My big saw, a Johnsered,, with a 24 with have me huffing and puffing like an old race horse against its nominal 8 horsepower. An 18 I can swing all day. In general,, the best guy to learn from,, sharpening to felling Look for Buckin' Billy Ray. Guy is gooood. One small safety improvement, In general do not ever stand or lean your head over into the theoretical plane of the bar. Rare, but when they buck, no one can reflex quick enough,, and chains sometimes go to shit and can flail out in a huge swing. I don't remember,, you were wearing chaps?
@@Sailor376also Echo the Buckin' Billy Ray reference. Great job @doinsuffwithzane. I am new to this as well and am learning compression side vs. Tension side cutting. On large root balls like this one where the tree is parallel to the ground the use of wedges to assist that top cut expansion. Also the marking off the tree for alignment by @sailor376also is right on point. Good job man. Thanks for posting this video.
i like to trim the back side roots that are free of dirt not to dull the chain so when you get that flop nothing holds it back from dropping into the hole.
@@doinstuffwithzane indeed, I've been struggling with wind blown trees lately, it looks like the best way to do it, i had been doing a V cut underneath then coming down from the top to meet in the middle. That seems to work alright also. Sam
You're very wise to be cautious, a man at the head of my lake died in front of his young children getting flung by a root ball. 6 years ago I was chopping through a huge 10 ft through the base eucalypt that had blown over ..its root ball was 25' x 20' ... I had a 42" bar on my 880 ...got a far as I was comfortable and told the farmer that was that. No sense getting yourself killed for fire wood.
As a pro with almost 30 years in the trade it's hard to know where to start.cutting a windblown tree is considered advance level & is one if the most dangerous operations.No chainsaw pants, visor up no chainsaw boots, big saw & huge bar.This guy is obviously a complete beginner.The saw should be reved hard & a reduction cut made in the correct sequence.Thus is like a new driver going out into rush hour traffic in a Dodge charger
@@doinstuffwithzane yes my friend we all have to start somewhere but you're really in the deep end with a windblown.I would recommend anti cut pants & boots even if you're cutting firewood.also find out if anyone offers chainsaw training courses in your area.some folks think that this is excessive but like firearms & motorcycles when it goes wrong it happens really quick & makes a big mess.Take care my friend.
If you don’t take basic precautions such as chaps, visor, boots you may not be using the chain saw long enough to learn these basics. Repairing a chainsaw cut to a leg is time consuming.
@@hilltopshitkicker PPE aside, I cringed every time on the top cut the when saw wasn't kept at full speed. I've cut through hard rock maple faster than that which makes me wonder how sharp that chain is. Overall, this isn't a dig on OP. I just get concerned that people will come here with less skill and knowledge than the OP and attempt to do the same thing.
@@Jagg2305 yes there's a lot of dangerous stuff shown on TH-cam but my position is that i was born ignorant & started out in tree work knowing nothing! If i can share a little knowledge in a respectful way i would be happy.
LOL @Doin' Stuff (your comment below)... I hate to add on here but; was someone being sure a dog or a human wasn't in the hole? I remember a 4 year old was crushed in Charlotte, NC after Hurricane Hugo. Not a thing they could do.
I was alone and had been walking around the tree for a good while before I got started. I didn't specifically look for anything, but would have noticed in the amount of time I was down there.
@@annaaron3510 Then I apologize, although I'm not certain you know what sarcasm is. While I'm sure you wear all required PPE during every activity you undertake, some of us understand and fully accept the risk we are taking. I can understand that you want people to be safe, but in my opinion you are not going about it properly.
Give us a F'in break..."power stance" ? Chainsawing ain't a macho trip. You want to be AN EXPERT, USE THE SKILLS AND NEEDED TOOLS LIKE PPE. How much does an ER visit cost ? Necklace ?
It warms my heart to see how many people are concerned for my personal well being. Thanks so much.
You did a great job - the only thing I would have done is cut a wedge on the compression side so it could have a hinge and might open more slowly. You did fine as a normal dude cutting down windfall.
Very Nice! I really like the way that you carefully took your time and allowed your chainsaw to do its job!
Doesn't matter how much wood you cut.. uprooted trees are sketchy AF.
Thanks for taking me along for the ride. I've got a big beech that uprooted downhill and i'm brainstorming ways to deal with it. Probably going to chain the root ball back for extra security. Its right on that line of "will it go back into its hole or want to roll downhill"
I'll work it tip-down and see if Incan get a read on it.
For sure sketchy. I just try to not die as best as I can. Some are easier than others, but I always see the potential of what could go wrong. I'm always ready to ditch my saw and haul ass. I'm lucky to have a pretty flat yard. I wish you success in your cuts.
You did a fine job. I'm sure you learned a bit more since this video. A little fear is a healthy thing to have. You should never have too much as long as there is experience.
Thanks! I have learned more about what is likely to happen and what I won't do again.
Your attack on the cut was absolutely perfect. The only thing wrong was your saw. the chain was way to tight even before you started your cut. A properly tightened chain should have only a little snap to it when you pull down on it. Also you should be able to move the chain forward and backward by hand, but with the saw not running. The key to that situation is being able to rev your saw and keep up the chain speed until the trunk breaks free. You did a great job, just get a little more aggressive on your cut. I've been cutting trees for over forty years professionally , so again good job. Stay safe.
Thank you! I have since learned more about chainsaws and actually loosened the chain the next time I went to use the saw.
Once you've cut into the top of the tree, try pounding a wedge into the cut. It will keep the cut open. I've been using saws since 1973.
Couple of points from someone who has (unfortunately) done this a few times. For the first cuts, you'd notch it on the top (maybe a third of the way through) and start to finish it on the bottom.......but at some point (as you discovered) the script will get switched (i.e. the top side will open up and the bottom will become the pinch side). It's hard to know when that will happen....so I use some wedges to help the saw from getting pinched. Always have a standby saw/bar for this kind of work.....'cause it's hard to be right.
Something else: that looked like a well maintained area. If (later on) you are planning on removing the stump....when it is uprooted like that is a ideal time to set it up for that. For starters, you can strip off the dirt from the backside.....then maybe trim back the roots where you are certain the saw won't hit dirt. It's all about getting that hole filled with available dirt.....and cutting down on the weight of the stump that has to be hauled. Also, if removal is the plan, cut any roots you can so that there is less resistance to being pulled out.
But overall: nice job.
I appreciate the tips. I intend to basically leave the stump as it sits. It is at the extreme back of my yard and doesn't bother me to look at.
Ya did good. Good plan,, proper amount of fear, respect for the weight of the trunk and root ball. Next time,, the initial up cut. Plant or mark your feet where they are,, that gives you the best alignment of matching up with down cuts. and mostly,, on the down cut give a very slight diagonal down toward the root ball. Always err the intersectionon the side of the bole. Just a couple of degrees is fine,, because the bole is going to fall and the root ball stump is going up,, OFTEN violently. Your blade won't pinch if you use a slight diagonal.
Thanks! I appreciate the tips. Most people don't want to help, but love telling you what you did wrong.
@@doinstuffwithzane No, you did very well. For general use I would recommend a much shorter bar. You can cut from both sides, takes a bit more skill, but heck of a lot easier to handle. I own two bars usually an 18 or 20 and my long one is a 24 I can cut down basically anything less than 4.5 foot diameter with a 24. Firewood production a 20 will do almost anything and it requires half the strength of the 24. My big saw, a Johnsered,, with a 24 with have me huffing and puffing like an old race horse against its nominal 8 horsepower. An 18 I can swing all day.
In general,, the best guy to learn from,, sharpening to felling Look for Buckin' Billy Ray. Guy is gooood.
One small safety improvement, In general do not ever stand or lean your head over into the theoretical plane of the bar. Rare, but when they buck, no one can reflex quick enough,, and chains sometimes go to shit and can flail out in a huge swing. I don't remember,, you were wearing chaps?
@@Sailor376also Echo the Buckin' Billy Ray reference. Great job @doinsuffwithzane. I am new to this as well and am learning compression side vs. Tension side cutting. On large root balls like this one where the tree is parallel to the ground the use of wedges to assist that top cut expansion. Also the marking off the tree for alignment by @sailor376also is right on point. Good job man. Thanks for posting this video.
W
Nice one matey. You were right to be cautious, that lump of wood wouldn't take any prisoners.
i like to trim the back side roots that are free of dirt not to dull the chain so when you get that flop nothing holds it back from dropping into the hole.
That is a great idea! If any more fall in my yard I will have to give that a try.
The 'Power Stance' - brace yourself, darlin', here I come ..........................
A step cut helps in times like that 👌🏼😎
To be honest I didn't know about a step cut. Now that I do know, I can definitely see the benefit.
@@doinstuffwithzane indeed, I've been struggling with wind blown trees lately, it looks like the best way to do it, i had been doing a V cut underneath then coming down from the top to meet in the middle. That seems to work alright also. Sam
once you finish your bottom cut, then lightly cup up on both sides to mark where to make the top cut
That makes sense. Hopefully I won't have any more reasons to make these cuts. Eventually I'll run out of trees in my yard.
You accomplished what you intended and didn’t get injured or killed👍
Thanks! That was the general goal. I guess that isn't good enough for some people.
You're very wise to be cautious, a man at the head of my lake died in front of his young children getting flung by a root ball. 6 years ago I was chopping through a huge 10 ft through the base eucalypt that had blown over ..its root ball was 25' x 20' ... I had a 42" bar on my 880 ...got a far as I was comfortable and told the farmer that was that. No sense getting yourself killed for fire wood.
How? was he on top of it?
@@Thirsty4stalin yes i believe so ...
Nice piece of lumber 👍
Eventually it will be. I'm being rather lazy about processing the tree.
Looks like Red Oak. Would make purty slabs of lumber.
Yes, the Water Oak is in the Red Oak category. I am just trying to finish my solar kiln before I slab it.
As a pro with almost 30 years in the trade it's hard to know where to start.cutting a windblown tree is considered advance level & is one if the most dangerous operations.No chainsaw pants, visor up no chainsaw boots, big saw & huge bar.This guy is obviously a complete beginner.The saw should be reved hard & a reduction cut made in the correct sequence.Thus is like a new driver going out into rush hour traffic in a Dodge charger
You are 100% correct. I am a beginner. I appreciate your input. As a professional I expect you know that every has to start somewhere.
@@doinstuffwithzane yes my friend we all have to start somewhere but you're really in the deep end with a windblown.I would recommend anti cut pants & boots even if you're cutting firewood.also find out if anyone offers chainsaw training courses in your area.some folks think that this is excessive but like firearms & motorcycles when it goes wrong it happens really quick & makes a big mess.Take care my friend.
If you don’t take basic precautions such as chaps, visor, boots you may not be using the chain saw long enough to learn these basics. Repairing a chainsaw cut to a leg is time consuming.
@@hilltopshitkicker PPE aside, I cringed every time on the top cut the when saw wasn't kept at full speed. I've cut through hard rock maple faster than that which makes me wonder how sharp that chain is. Overall, this isn't a dig on OP. I just get concerned that people will come here with less skill and knowledge than the OP and attempt to do the same thing.
@@Jagg2305 yes there's a lot of dangerous stuff shown on TH-cam but my position is that i was born ignorant & started out in tree work knowing nothing! If i can share a little knowledge in a respectful way i would be happy.
Good job! 👏
thanks!
I don't know if you know your backed up on some poison oak, ivy?
Honestly, I'm not surprised. It is all over my yard and I don't pay enough attention to it. I often feel it's wrath after working in the yard.
I have to watch for it because I'm highly alergeict, you know what I mean, I don't spell to well@@doinstuffwithzane
Always wear chaps no matter how much experience you have
I will keep that in mind
very well successed!
Thanks! I didn't cut myself off either.
Sharpening chain might have helped too
It had not been through too many cuts at that point, maybe 4, but a fresh sharpen surely couldn't have hurt.
what do you do if the tree ball does not fall back in?
I can't answer for other people, but I would just leave it. I only cut it off so that I would be able to process the trunk.
LOL @Doin' Stuff (your comment below)... I hate to add on here but; was someone being sure a dog or a human wasn't in the hole? I remember a 4 year old was crushed in Charlotte, NC after Hurricane Hugo. Not a thing they could do.
I was alone and had been walking around the tree for a good while before I got started. I didn't specifically look for anything, but would have noticed in the amount of time I was down there.
@@doinstuffwithzane I figured you had taken precautions, I commented that mainly for anybody who might not think about such. Thanks for the video.
Good job💪🏻
Thanks!
Nice cut. Is that a Husqvarna saw? What size bar is that?
Thanks, it is a Husqvarna 572xp with a 36" Husqvarna bar and Oregon chain
"Success" You managed to waste 2 feet of log.
It's not really waste when you cut the stump anyway
Great job Thanks
Thank you!
do that, but with the top of that tree up in the air, resting on ANOTHER big tree
I would kindly decline.😅 I have a pretty good idea of my limits and that would be way out of them.
Beautifull vidionya👍
Nice Kevlar jeans Zane.
I'm sure your Internet sarcasm has helped bundles of folks. Keep up the good work!
NOT sarcasm Mr. Zane. You're showing expertise without protection. Not bright.No sarcasm.@@doinstuffwithzane
@@annaaron3510 Then I apologize, although I'm not certain you know what sarcasm is. While I'm sure you wear all required PPE during every activity you undertake, some of us understand and fully accept the risk we are taking. I can understand that you want people to be safe, but in my opinion you are not going about it properly.
Why of course when doing sex Zane. You do sex ?@@doinstuffwithzane
Good job. I have to make cuts like that and the forces are tremendous and hard to read.
Thanks! These things will always leave you guessing
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They must be paying you by the hour
I wish someone would pay me to do stuff around my house
Semangaaat..,
Nice exercise
Thanks
Why so high on the stump?
I had not done it before and I was a bit nervous. My wife wants cookies cut so it worked out in the end.
Vous parlez de sécurité où sont vos pantalon, chaussures et gants ? surtout avec un guide de cette taille .
Je ne me souviens pas avoir parlé de sécurité. J'apprends au fur et à mesure.
@@doinstuffwithzane quand tu as baissé ta visière du casque et mis tes lunettes il apparue safety
On m'a donné des conseils et je vais y réfléchir. Merci de votre contribution.
Nice wonderfulll...
Thank you
Waw good job i Like 💪💪🙏👍👌
Thanks ✌
@@doinstuffwithzane 👌👍
Your Chain is too tight. You should never have put your saw down beside the Stem. If it would have Kicked, good bye my friend!
Is that for firewood
Some of it will be. The larger part of the trunk will be slabs.
Give us a F'in break..."power stance" ? Chainsawing ain't a macho trip. You want to be AN EXPERT, USE THE SKILLS AND NEEDED TOOLS LIKE PPE. How much does an ER visit cost ?
Necklace ?
If your first attempt doesn't get the desired effect then be more upset and aggressive. You're killing more than my lack of safety equipment.
Quel cinéma !
I'm sorry, I have no idea what that means.
Now, do that AGAIN, but with the top of the tree way up in the air resting on ANOTHER big tree
Low skil
And????
DANGG@@doinstuffwithzane