I really do enjoy your techie work-a-rounds on your projects. Now I have to wait a month to see the internet, electrical and septic projects. I do miss your weekly posts so much. A long time fan of yours
Great to see the D-I-Y improvisation on the controls and hookups. No "licensed and approved" professional plumbers or electricians needed, as in most suburban/city areas. You can actually DO things yourself, as it should be, without government or Union interference. Glad to see Meg again, too, as she's a "full-time" employment person, and I'm sure she's the extra set of hands, when needed there. Keep the videos comin', Jon.
Love the control bypass! One thought that raises a little question/concern is the port size being roughly 1/2 the pipe size. That would seem to be a fair bit of restriction against the pump that is already pushing against a head off 200' plus the depth of the well. It might be worth checking the amperage that the pump is drawing when pushing to the top of the hill. I am not sure how to calculate the difference, but am fairly certain a three way valve with a 1" port would reduce restriction (overall head) and increase flow while reducing load a bit on the pump motor. Glad you used that valve though, I need to use one for a hydronic clothes dryer I need to build for my homestead. Nice to see it work and wire before spending my dollars on it.🎉❤
One day your great grandchildren will look at an old picture of you guys on the wall above the fire place and tear up knowing the sacrifices you made to make a home.
Hey john, just passing on a little tip, i hope it helps, but when cutting already glued pvc, like in your case here, if you leave at least 3 inches of pvc pipe sticking out of the elbow, you can "re-use" that elbow with a coupler on another project later when you need an elbow, and you dont have to buy a new one. Couplers are cheaper than elbows and easier to store so for me, at least, its a win win. I have become more "penny wise" in my old age. Some may call it hoarding, but at least it's organized and "most of the time" i dont need to go to the hardware store. Man i tell ya, you have made some progress! Awesome! Y'all will have this house done in no time. Keep up the great work.
I laughed my but off when I saw Spring Creek Water at 99 cents a gallon in the Smith's grocery store in Phoenix. Now, it's in the kitchen faucet. I get to chuckle alot.
It's nice to see new videos :) I have been following from episode 1 since me and family are doing something similar :) awesome thanks for sharing all steps ...
Glad to see another post! You are the DIY master. I hope you have better luck with the pipe dope than me. The only place I have ever had a failure is where I used that stuff. My response: never again.
14.7psi of water column pressure to overcome for every 34 feet of rise up the mountain. Check the load/amps on the pump to see how hard you're working it.
hey John, you dont need an arduino to control that switch, all you need to do it replace the A switch on the circuit board to a on/off float switch. nice to see you back. Dean in the UK
Greetings from the BIG SKY. Runnin power for the washer/dryer was probably first on the 'todo' list I bet. It's a lot better watchin Meg struggle with the wire than you.
do you need sewer cleanouts up and down the mountain every so many feet? When we first saw the concrete from the pour a couple years ago, it looked to me as it just got too cold before the cure. I'm sure it would have been fine. How long did it take for the 1 HP pump to push water to the top?
You should put the house float switch circuit on a timer so if someone is staying in the trailer, they won't get water interruption. You could run it around 3:00 am for the least interference with the trailer.
Hi Jon & Meg, Been waiting for your video. Really good material.... and explained so well (as usual). I bet you are so pleased to have water at the house site now. One less thing you have to think about. Digging that trench was a definite turning point in the journey to living in your new house, no, home. A couple of things you might like to think about: . What about inserting a non-return valve or stop cock in the pex going up the hill. Not that you are going to have an issue without it being there, but if for example, the diversion valve malfunctions and you have to work on it or replace it, you won't have 1000' of head to deal with. . And this one seems silly, and get assigned to the who cares basket, but when gluing PVC pipe or the like, it is worthwhile getting into the habit of gluing the female socket first. But why??? You can put the glued socket down while you concentrate on the male fixture without getting much contamination in the glue. Doing it the other way around will almost certainly end up in a dirty mess. Love your work guys. Cheers, EJ
John at 15:58 did you not putting a marking tape 30cm below the ground level to identify your underground piping ? It's close to your shed and in the futur other digging works can occur. ;)
John - if the pressure tank is at 60psi, but you need water at the house site when you are up there, how do you tell the well pump to kick on? You wouldnt be opening the valve to releive the pressure from up there right? Just a thought, but could your remote relay be wired direct to the well pump too? Basically, when you press "A" it not only switches the 3 way valve position, but also switches the pump on...
How bout you put some Teflon tape on the pipe dope …great video. Where do you get these ideas from … the wireless remote actuator control is awesome!! Seems like that would be a good idea to shut off hose bibs for the winter. What’s the frost line by you? Ours is 42” Westchester ny
Maybe I'm missing something but those ports in the ball valve look very small to feed 1 inch PEX. I know you said 80 or 90 psi to go up the mountain but I hope it works ok.
Yep, I hear you. I don't like the restriction either, but I'm getting about 4.5 gallons per minute on top of the mountain which is very acceptable with how it will all function together.
Why are you overcomplicating the controls for your well water diversion? Normally open to the House site via its own high-pressure pump, the diverter valve is then operated by the adjacent existing pressure switch for the lower parts of the property, when the house is built, you will probably be using water a lot more when you are up there and no need for a wireless link, and when water is required down the hill the diverter valve will operate.
In my opinion your water solution is too complicated, a simpler way maybe is to add a a pressure regulator set to 75 psi down stream the pressure tank, then put a T up stream of the regulator for the line up to the house / and the pressure switch for the 90+ psi. if the pump cycles too much, put a pressure tank at the house end. Thank you.
There is a very simple fix for your problem that will work forever and never cause problems. It is a lot of labor and may take time but you have all the equipment needed and all of the resources right on site. Build an earth tower above the highest point that you will build any structure that may need water. Use native stone as large as you can move as a perimeter base foundation and walls, very thick walls. Fill the interior with native soil and feed input and output lines while the tower is being lifted. Put a water storage container about twice the size that you think you will need on top and then continue the tower up around the storage tank at least as thick as the frost depth and as far from the walls to prevent frost/freezing as needed. I personally would make the tower wide enough on top to build a small cabin that could be used for a temporary shelter with a safe usable surface space all around the cabin, at least ten (10) feet all around. I would build a cabin of at least twelve (12) feet square and include a water closet and wet bar with electricity, either local solar or feed from the existing system. I would include an access door and root cellar down to the access point on the tank. With this in place it could be used in emergency as a storm shelter, if caught on top when a storm hits. This underground shelter is not to be used as a primary shelter just an emergency shelter if already on site when the storm arrives. This shelter could also have a few days store of emergency foods and with access to the water, minimum, if any, power would be needed. I would also put in a mechanical pump. All of this takes time and lots of work but you would never be out of water. Oh, did I forget to mention that I would put a windmill on the water supply well and a mechanical back up for when there is no wind. A solar heater could be used to provide steam for a steam motor as well. Lots of ideas just go with the ones that make sense to you. Probably none as what you have done will work in most situations.
I really do enjoy your techie work-a-rounds on your projects. Now I have to wait a month to see the internet, electrical and septic projects. I do miss your weekly posts so much.
A long time fan of yours
Keep doing what you are doing. it's great to see you solve your problem as you come across them.
Great to see the D-I-Y improvisation on the controls and hookups. No "licensed and approved" professional plumbers or electricians needed, as in most suburban/city areas. You can actually DO things yourself, as it should be, without government or Union interference. Glad to see Meg again, too, as she's a "full-time" employment person, and I'm sure she's the extra set of hands, when needed there. Keep the videos comin', Jon.
I agree and would definitely be able to have a beer with you @powrguy1696! Also with John & Meg! Way to go John!👍
Greetings from Damascus. Glad to see more families move to SWVA.
GREAT VIDEO.....GOOD ENGINEERING. Been enjoying your adventure from the beginning.... amazing progress. Richard (age 81 in Tidewater Virginia.
Great job with explanation. Uncle Dave understands now. 👍😊♥
Hey John, you're the man. Slather the slick on those threads. You go, bro. Appreciate your sharing your sincere unabashed attitude.💪🎯👍
Any way you do it, is 'how you do it'. I never argue with success.
Love this ☝️
Congratulations Jon & Meg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love the control bypass! One thought that raises a little question/concern is the port size being roughly 1/2 the pipe size. That would seem to be a fair bit of restriction against the pump that is already pushing against a head off 200' plus the depth of the well. It might be worth checking the amperage that the pump is drawing when pushing to the top of the hill. I am not sure how to calculate the difference, but am fairly certain a three way valve with a 1" port would reduce restriction (overall head) and increase flow while reducing load a bit on the pump motor.
Glad you used that valve though, I need to use one for a hydronic clothes dryer I need to build for my homestead. Nice to see it work and wire before spending my dollars on it.🎉❤
One day your great grandchildren will look at an old picture of you guys on the wall above the fire place and tear up knowing the sacrifices you made to make a home.
What a job John, I totally knew it would all work, momentous achievement, holy cow!!!
Well hello guys great to see you today, can’t wait to see what’s next, your friend from Alaska 🙏🏻❤️💪
Love the solution. The remote idea what a nice way to save a lot of cash. I would hate to pay for the copper to do that.
Hey john, just passing on a little tip, i hope it helps, but when cutting already glued pvc, like in your case here, if you leave at least 3 inches of pvc pipe sticking out of the elbow, you can "re-use" that elbow with a coupler on another project later when you need an elbow, and you dont have to buy a new one. Couplers are cheaper than elbows and easier to store so for me, at least, its a win win. I have become more "penny wise" in my old age. Some may call it hoarding, but at least it's organized and "most of the time" i dont need to go to the hardware store. Man i tell ya, you have made some progress! Awesome! Y'all will have this house done in no time. Keep up the great work.
Oh! And don't you fret over "pipe dope dude" you do you, it's only temporary unless it works and if it works, it anit stupid. 😂
Good tip!
I laughed my but off when I saw Spring Creek Water at 99 cents a gallon in the Smith's grocery store in Phoenix. Now, it's in the kitchen faucet. I get to chuckle alot.
Once again, super impressed with your system development!
It's nice to see new videos :) I have been following from episode 1 since me and family are doing something similar :) awesome thanks for sharing all steps ...
Glad to see another post! You are the DIY master. I hope you have better luck with the pipe dope than me. The only place I have ever had a failure is where I used that stuff. My response: never again.
Need more horses. Water to the top .Can you hear it?? Great vid guys. Love the music slinky trench Meg to the rescue...
Missed you guys 😊
Great video John! Learned a ton. Love how you research and implement your plans! Keep it up
Well sorry I didn't get to. Wish you a Merry Christmas but happy New Year and may you all be safe and healthy after that there's happiness.
14.7psi of water column pressure to overcome for every 34 feet of rise up the mountain. Check the load/amps on the pump to see how hard you're working it.
hey John, you dont need an arduino to control that switch, all you need to do it replace the A switch on the circuit board to a on/off float switch. nice to see you back.
Dean in the UK
Greetings from the BIG SKY. Runnin power for the washer/dryer was probably first on the 'todo' list I bet. It's a lot better watchin Meg struggle with the wire than you.
do you need sewer cleanouts up and down the mountain every so many feet? When we first saw the concrete from the pour a couple years ago, it looked to me as it just got too cold before the cure. I'm sure it would have been fine. How long did it take for the 1 HP pump to push water to the top?
Great video
You should put the house float switch circuit on a timer so if someone is staying in the trailer, they won't get water interruption. You could run it around 3:00 am for the least interference with the trailer.
Good job!
You're living in the real rocky mountains of this continent I think. I live in the 'new' Rockies, you get the old ones.
Hi Jon & Meg,
Been waiting for your video. Really good material.... and explained so well (as usual).
I bet you are so pleased to have water at the house site now. One less thing you have to think about. Digging that trench was a definite turning point in the journey to living in your new house, no, home.
A couple of things you might like to think about:
. What about inserting a non-return valve or stop cock in the pex going up the hill. Not that you are going to have an issue without it being there, but if for example, the diversion valve malfunctions and you have to work on it or replace it, you won't have 1000' of head to deal with.
. And this one seems silly, and get assigned to the who cares basket, but when gluing PVC pipe or the like, it is worthwhile getting into the habit of gluing the female socket first. But why??? You can put the glued socket down while you concentrate on the male fixture without getting much contamination in the glue. Doing it the other way around will almost certainly end up in a dirty mess.
Love your work guys.
Cheers, EJ
Funny introduction, it's look like you are handling a big bomb that you have find :)
John at 15:58 did you not putting a marking tape 30cm below the ground level to identify your underground piping ? It's close to your shed and in the futur other digging works can occur. ;)
Should have put a 3 foot hose and a sparkler at the end of it on the top of that “bomb”… just for grins and giggles. 😂
Success !!!
Just curious why you need the round tank and pump to get your effluent to the septic system at the bottom? Shouldn’t gravity be a foolproof solution?
John - if the pressure tank is at 60psi, but you need water at the house site when you are up there, how do you tell the well pump to kick on? You wouldnt be opening the valve to releive the pressure from up there right?
Just a thought, but could your remote relay be wired direct to the well pump too? Basically, when you press "A" it not only switches the 3 way valve position, but also switches the pump on...
How bout you put some Teflon tape on the pipe dope …great video.
Where do you get these ideas from … the wireless remote actuator control is awesome!! Seems like that would be a good idea to shut off hose bibs for the winter.
What’s the frost line by you?
Ours is 42” Westchester ny
Yeah, I grew up in northern NJ and it was similar there. Ours is only 12 in VA, but I usually go down at least 24.
@@WalnutsandWineberries no s***. I grew up in springfield and my parents live in Kinnelon … near Wayne.
@@Ratherbemilling Jefferson!
Check the like button. This channel is for real!
John, Great to see you back. What was the remote switch you used?
Congratulations!!!
I got mine here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q348BHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Maybe I'm missing something but those ports in the ball valve look very small to feed 1 inch PEX. I know you said 80 or 90 psi to go up the mountain but I hope it works ok.
Yep, I hear you. I don't like the restriction either, but I'm getting about 4.5 gallons per minute on top of the mountain which is very acceptable with how it will all function together.
Every plumber I've seen in Montana had pipe dope with him.
Why not drill a well at the house site?
You need a narrator a water softener and a three filter system to clean your water.
You're well pump isn't big enough to pump up the hill so you need the expansion tank
At the 21:59 mark, they are wild strawberries 🍓
Why are you overcomplicating the controls for your well water diversion? Normally open to the House site via its own high-pressure pump, the diverter valve is then operated by the adjacent existing pressure switch for the lower parts of the property, when the house is built, you will probably be using water a lot more when you are up there and no need for a wireless link, and when water is required down the hill the diverter valve will operate.
I sure hope that hurt your ears as much as it did mine to cut that pipe.
In my opinion your water solution is too complicated, a simpler way maybe is to add a a pressure regulator set to 75 psi down stream the pressure tank, then put a T up stream of the regulator for the line up to the house / and the pressure switch for the 90+ psi. if the pump cycles too much, put a pressure tank at the house end. Thank you.
spy vs spy
There is a very simple fix for your problem that will work forever and never cause problems. It is a lot of labor and may take time but you have all the equipment needed and all of the resources right on site.
Build an earth tower above the highest point that you will build any structure that may need water. Use native stone as large as you can move as a perimeter base foundation and walls, very thick walls.
Fill the interior with native soil and feed input and output lines while the tower is being lifted. Put a water storage container about twice the size that you think you will need on top and then continue the tower up around the storage tank at least as thick as the frost depth and as far from the walls to prevent frost/freezing as needed.
I personally would make the tower wide enough on top to build a small cabin that could be used for a temporary shelter with a safe usable surface space all around the cabin, at least ten (10) feet all around. I would build a cabin of at least twelve (12) feet square and include a water closet and wet bar with electricity, either local solar or feed from the existing system.
I would include an access door and root cellar down to the access point on the tank. With this in place it could be used in emergency as a storm shelter, if caught on top when a storm hits. This underground shelter is not to be used as a primary shelter just an emergency shelter if already on site when the storm arrives. This shelter could also have a few days store of emergency foods and with access to the water, minimum, if any, power would be needed. I would also put in a mechanical pump.
All of this takes time and lots of work but you would never be out of water. Oh, did I forget to mention that I would put a windmill on the water supply well and a mechanical back up for when there is no wind. A solar heater could be used to provide steam for a steam motor as well. Lots of ideas just go with the ones that make sense to you. Probably none as what you have done will work in most situations.
XFILES