I really really really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I'm building a Flying V right now... beautiful kit actually, all mahogany... I've built a LOT of guitars, and in all my builds this will be the first time I've had to drill and mount a tune-o-matic. This is so much help!
Really coming on mate. Looks great. I finished my first ever build today and am chuffed to bits with it. your channel has been a real help and inspiration!
As reckless as it sounds, I’ve always just taken the measurement from the nut to the twelfth fret, then used that from the twelfth fret to the bridge saddle adjustment mid-point, adding a 16th to an 8th of an inch for good luck. So far it’s been, as you would say- spot on!
That will certainly work, I found the stew mac online calculator quite good though as it gives measurements for each type of bridge, takes all the guess work out of the job. I'm glad you can get it spot on though 😄
Brian Kelley: You will find that proper intonation is almost always longer string length by an 18th on the low E and shorter by a 16th on the high E. Make the line from bridge post to bridge post according to that by measuring from the nut and your saddle adjustments will be so close to the center of travel you will never have issues. On most of my builds, I preset the saddle positions based on that line with the D saddle inline with the G saddle, and 90% of the time my intonation is perfect on the first check.
Cheers Mick, I much prefer the look of the ARB1 style bridge, might be a little harder to adjust but you spend way more time looking at them than adjusting them :)
Patrick, scale length / bridge placement day is always a white knuckle event.. curious.. as the strings always seem to stagger in saddle placement.. from E A D and then again to G B E.. is 2 steps so to speak.. so it the goal to sit somewhere in the middle for adjustment purposes? also.. when using the ABR1 type (which I prefer).. are you placing the calipers on the shaft of the screw or the threads.. the want the threads to cut a path.. but also not too tightly.. or are you measure the real OD of that screw?..and as far as the stop tail.. i just fell in love with the "overwrap".. as you can place it on the body and still have a small break angle.. i like slinky strings.. even on a Gibson scale..
The method I used on this one places the centre line of the bridge at the scale lenght so in effect leaving the full range of adjustment, the other way I often use is to place the high E string sadle at the scale length (with the saddle almost at it's front most position) and that will leave all the adjustment needed for the rest of the strings as they will never need to be forward of the high E. With the bridge studs I measure the OD of the threads and then subtract .5mm and then select the nearest drill bit I have which in this case was 3.5mm. I have never tried the top wrap technique, I keep saying I'm going to try it out on my SG next time I change the strings but as I don't play it that much it doesn't need strings that often. Be interesting to see how it feels, I use hybrid slinkys, could be interesting.
Nice tip about getting the tailpiece stud separation right - I've been caught out just as you describe! 🙄 How do you plan to earth the bridge/tailpiece? Drill from the control housing to a tailpiece stud?
For future reference: You can place the stop-bar as far behind the bridge as you want. Factory specs don't mean anything mechanically or musically,, but "longer overall string length" makes string bending easier on the fingers. Since I learned that, I tend to place the stop-bar or string ferrules about 4 -5 inches below the bridge. I get lots of player compliments. They say my 11s bend like 9s. Think about the advantage of being able to use fatter strings and still be able to bend them half-way cross the fret-board.
Thanks Tim, that's really interesting. I think on this build it needed to be somewhere close to the original design just so it looked right to me but I think that is something I will be trying on a future build to see what difference it makes. Cheers for the heads up :)
I currently building my own guitar. Its a stratocaster frankenstein kind of thing. It plays really well but I've always wanted to put a tune-o-matic on it for easier bending and this tip is a god send, thank you so much!
It really is taking shape Patrick. The thumbnail with the pickups in place looks brilliant. I'm really looking forward to hearing it, I bet it will sound as good as it looks.
Great video! You explained and demonstrated your work really well! Thanks
Gotta love a Firebird....it's looking good fella!
Cheers buddy, I'm really happy with the way it's coming together.
I really really really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I'm building a Flying V right now... beautiful kit actually, all mahogany... I've built a LOT of guitars, and in all my builds this will be the first time I've had to drill and mount a tune-o-matic. This is so much help!
Looking great Patrick, nice to see the mock-up in the beginning!
Cheers buddy, perhaps I should do that a bit more!
It's getting there. I always looked forward to the neck carving.
Me too, one of my favourite jobs.
I like your work and your editing and camera work is excellent. Thanks for sharing!!
Really love the way you work, and tons of good tricks to learn, thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching, really glad that you are enjoying it :)
I have already learnt a few tricks from you regarding through neck builds, looking forward to seeing this one finished!
Cheers buddy, glad you are finding it useful. I can't wait to feel and hear what this one plays like.
Perfect vid there buddy! Just fitted my first tom bridge today after watching this. Cheers
Nice one Neil, glad it helped :)
Really coming on mate. Looks great. I finished my first ever build today and am chuffed to bits with it. your channel has been a real help and inspiration!
Cheers Christian and congrats on finishing your build, glad to have been of help :)
As reckless as it sounds, I’ve always just taken the measurement from the nut to the twelfth fret, then used that from the twelfth fret to the bridge saddle adjustment mid-point, adding a 16th to an 8th of an inch for good luck. So far it’s been, as you would say- spot on!
That will certainly work, I found the stew mac online calculator quite good though as it gives measurements for each type of bridge, takes all the guess work out of the job. I'm glad you can get it spot on though 😄
Brian Kelley: You will find that proper intonation is almost always longer string length by an 18th on the low E and shorter by a 16th on the high E. Make the line from bridge post to bridge post according to that by measuring from the nut and your saddle adjustments will be so close to the center of travel you will never have issues. On most of my builds, I preset the saddle positions based on that line with the D saddle inline with the G saddle, and 90% of the time my intonation is perfect on the first check.
Looks fantastic! Beautiful work!
Thanks Ryan, I'm really pleased with how it's coming along :)
Looking great Patrick, I like the look of those thinner bridge studs, might try those on my 339 build.
Cheers Mick, I much prefer the look of the ARB1 style bridge, might be a little harder to adjust but you spend way more time looking at them than adjusting them :)
Keep it up... Looking good!
Thanks Michael :)
Looking good. Look forward to next episode
Cheers buddy, next episode coming right up :)
Coming along quite nicely!
Thanks buddy :)
Lookin great man! I really like the color scheme and the way it’s coming together. Should be gorgeous when you’re done.
Thanks Ryan, It's really starting to come together now :)
Really liking your build! I am also doing a Firebird'ish guitar for the GGBO 2022
Cheers Bill. I know, I've been trying to keep up with your build, it's going to look epic :)
Awesome video!
Thanks buddy :)
Why does everything look so easy when you do it and how can you be so calm? Nice work mate.
Thanks buddy, plenty of practice for the first bit. I'm generally quite calm and the shed is my chill out zone :)
always wanted to see someone install the ABR1 style tunomatics...thanks patrick
Hope it was useful buddy, not that difficult really.
That's looking really nice buddy.
Cheers buddy, really pleased with it.
Inspiring for me - since I built a not-unfirebird-like guitar over 40 years ago. Played it in bands, too, for about 5 or 6 years.
Brilliant, do you still have it?
@@Adventuresfromtheshedofdreams I do! I just refretted it a couple years ago.
Coming along well
Cheers Jim, it's really starting to look the part now :)
This really is a great series! Your last series made me want to build a 335, now I want to build a Firebird too!
You should build them both, I've really enjoyed each of them.
Hi Patrick, awesome video!! I have a question, how can I calculate the depth of studs' holes of the bridge?
Patrick, scale length / bridge placement day is always a white knuckle event.. curious.. as the strings always seem to stagger in saddle placement.. from E A D and then again to G B E.. is 2 steps so to speak.. so it the goal to sit somewhere in the middle for adjustment purposes? also.. when using the ABR1 type (which I prefer).. are you placing the calipers on the shaft of the screw or the threads.. the want the threads to cut a path.. but also not too tightly.. or are you measure the real OD of that screw?..and as far as the stop tail.. i just fell in love with the "overwrap".. as you can place it on the body and still have a small break angle.. i like slinky strings.. even on a Gibson scale..
The method I used on this one places the centre line of the bridge at the scale lenght so in effect leaving the full range of adjustment, the other way I often use is to place the high E string sadle at the scale length (with the saddle almost at it's front most position) and that will leave all the adjustment needed for the rest of the strings as they will never need to be forward of the high E. With the bridge studs I measure the OD of the threads and then subtract .5mm and then select the nearest drill bit I have which in this case was 3.5mm.
I have never tried the top wrap technique, I keep saying I'm going to try it out on my SG next time I change the strings but as I don't play it that much it doesn't need strings that often. Be interesting to see how it feels, I use hybrid slinkys, could be interesting.
Hi. Measure 10X, drill once. Nice work. You could make templates for future builds, or for others. ? Off camera checks I’d be happy to watch.
Cheers Daniel. Yep you need to be sure before you take steps you can't go back on. I'll put some more measuring and checking into a future vid :)
Nice tip about getting the tailpiece stud separation right - I've been caught out just as you describe! 🙄
How do you plan to earth the bridge/tailpiece? Drill from the control housing to a tailpiece stud?
Thanks Phil, yes, the tailpiece studs will come out for finishing and I'll put a ground in then.
Just curious, why didn't you use studs for the bridge too?
To be honest I just prefer the look of the thinner studs on the bridge, nothing more than that.
I like to use metal bushes under the bridge also, though I don't think it is necessary. I just like the look. We all have different tastes.
For future reference: You can place the stop-bar as far behind the bridge as you want. Factory specs don't mean anything mechanically or musically,, but "longer overall string length" makes string bending easier on the fingers. Since I learned that, I tend to place the stop-bar or string ferrules about 4 -5 inches below the bridge. I get lots of player compliments. They say my 11s bend like 9s. Think about the advantage of being able to use fatter strings and still be able to bend them half-way cross the fret-board.
Thanks Tim, that's really interesting. I think on this build it needed to be somewhere close to the original design just so it looked right to me but I think that is something I will be trying on a future build to see what difference it makes. Cheers for the heads up :)
I currently building my own guitar. Its a stratocaster frankenstein kind of thing. It plays really well but I've always wanted to put a tune-o-matic on it for easier bending and this tip is a god send, thank you so much!
Loving this build so far, hope u stain this thing
Cheers buddy, there is no way this one is having a solid colour on it. I need to show off the wood :)
Scale is 24, 3/4 inch
Hi
Hi :)
HI...
Hi :)
Hi :)
Hi :) That bought a smile to my face, thanks.
@@Adventuresfromtheshedofdreams I want to start luthiering myself and I watch you a lot. Thank you for all the info!
@@asafpelleh7594 Thanks for waching, I hope you can start building soon. Good luck buddy :)
It really is taking shape Patrick. The thumbnail with the pickups in place looks brilliant. I'm really looking forward to hearing it, I bet it will sound as good as it looks.
Thanks Martin, I can't wait to hear this one, really want to know what the pickups sound like.
Martin that's nice to say Martin.
hi