Great plane. I bought it this summer, but I had different experience compared to you in regards to tip stall. I was flying in guided mode, tried to adjust the altitude by pulling the elevator to go up, but then when I released it, ArduPilot corrected it a bit by pushing the nose down. At this point the plane has reached its guided point and started loitering. Those 2 combined threw the wing into an unrecoverable spin. I was at 350m altitude. Tried pretty much everything I could think of but the plane just kept on spinning to the ground. This total lack of control made me think maybe one of the wing screws fell off and and I lost a wing. Spoiler alert - nope, haven't lost a wing. I spent hour and a half trying to get to my plane, because it crashed kilometer and a half away in a pretty unpleasent to cross terrain. Thankfully to my 4G telemetry, I kept getting signal on my iPad and I knew exactly where it was. The only lucky thing that happened this day is that the field it crash on had only one bush and the plane perfectly hit it. No damage at all, just a very minor scratch which I am not even going to repair. I agree for the CG markings. Looks like Sonic Model decided to play it safe and put them a bit to the front. I moved the center of gravity 1-2cm back and it seems a bit better, but still dips the nose in manual. Not sure if this change contributed to the spin though. I had 10 flights before that (40 minutes each) and I didn't have any problems whatsoever.
Damn... well yeah... that only confirms it... if there is 1 bush or tree in the middle of a field... the plane will hit it no matter what! Glad there was no damage! On the CG question... yes... moving the CG too far back will cause issues like that and tail heavy does make wings pretty much uncontrollable, even if tail heavy by a little! 2cm seems a lot...
How about moving the FC to the back compartment to allow more room to be able to adjust battery positions...and give the FC more separation form the FPV wires.
Well I already swapped the locations of the DragonLink receiver and the Vtx, and this seem to be better! Also... turned out the Vtx was running at 25mW... so that kind of explains part of the issue! The city has been a nightmare to fly FPV in recently... so it actually did pretty well considering! :D hahahaha
I run the CG in my AR Wing Pro about 10mm behind stock location to eliminate pitch bob, but then it's a bit more prone to tip stall to the left on launch (notice how yours rolled to the left after your throw) so I also replaced the stock foam winglets with much larger (longer, taller) coroplast winglets to restore yaw stability. Looking through some DJI FPV DVR footage I see a little yaw waggle in windy conditions, which is 100% eliminated with the Hero7's Hypersmooth. Maybe it's better than the Osmo's stabilization.
Right! I am not sure I will go 10mm behind, but I did try a few mm to the rear last few flights, and it does handle them well! Was not able to make it stall still!
My AR Pro has its FC in the rear compartment. The yaw wiggle is caused by external drag. The airframe is very sensitive to external drag. My first one crashed a few times due to big external antennas (vas bluebeam 1.3ghz). TrueRC Singularity is good as it can be mounted inside the wing. Also consider mounting the dragonlink antenna with one half sticking out the bottom. This also increases efficiency a fair bit (100mah/km vs 120mah/km). The plane seems to be very reliable even compared to talon and skyhunter type of planes. Happy flying!
Sounds good! Seems to be getting mixed results with different people though! Some seem to have issues making it take off... others are generally happy with it...
I printed some fins similar to the ones on my ritewing hardcore to fit in the wing join gaps, just a little smaller than the hardcore. Wagging problem solved.
th-cam.com/video/s7n7uUDeZsw/w-d-xo.html Here is a quick overview of my setup. This is my flagship wing and I think I've fixed the major shortcomings of the reference spec. Frsky Xact servos are the business, ultra speed and sbus precision ;). @ArxangelRC
If you add extra vertical surfaces to the top and bottom like the ritewing ritesepec ships with it will help with wag and make it pretty much stop. Just works better with a vertical surface below the wing as well as the top.
I put my air unit in the left bay and had to cut foam to get the coax cable back out on my arwing pro. when I wanted to remove it. It was easy to push the coax with it's grommet through, coming back out...not so easy.
Hi there... on my Reptile S1100 and AR900 I fly with Sunnysky X2212 low KV and a 10x6 prop, it has plenty of power but as ecenomical to a point where I get bored to fly and land it before I empty the battery, on my Reptile I am using a 4S2P 21700 and I have put it on the ground with the bat at 47% 73 minutes after I toke off... I expect to get an AR Pro somewhere soon and this will be its power train setup for sure... try it yourself. Cheers
Right, well for the time being it flies good enough and long enough on the stock gear, so I see little point in investing in changes, but thanks for the info, will keep that in mind in case I decide something else! :)
Hey should I use arduplane or inav for this build? I heard inav allows much better control of the sticks? I am going to be using an ELRS transmitter/receiver.
Not sure why iNav would allow for better control of the sticks... not sure what that means... but it will be a bit easier to configure... in theory! Ardu is a much more reliable code.
I use the RDQ's VTX powered directly by the flight battery and use the filtered 5v out from the same VTX to power the camera. I always have excellent video even with FC, ESC, R9 rcvr and VTX all stacked or next to each other, wires and all. But for long range I separate all as possible. I usually fly the Nano Goblin, The old Dart 635mm, a Ranger 1600 and a 5" Quad set up similarly.
Yes, separation is critical, especially for long range! I did move the gear around, but also found out another cause of the bad signal... it was running at 25mW!! :D
I found on this wing will fly well even on the back half of the CG marks, they are a little to forward. My AUW is 1290g's and it almost lost the majority of the reflex barring 1-2mm needed
with regards tot he yaw wag, do you have any part of your elevons protruding down below the bottom of the air foil? this is a known issue with wings, one way around it would be to have a plastic sheet that is flexible enough to bend for down elevon but long enough that it stays flat on "up"
@@ArxangelRC and get that antenna straight into the wind. now its like you have a big airbrake on right side which doesnt help tailwaggle as well. i put all my antenna near center and doesnt let it stick out too much. less air drag. no waggle for me. like zero. (black AR WING PRO 1000)
The Dragon link system sounds pretty bad ass. Are you using it ? Because I think there is a different TH-cam channel using it . Have you tried the AFPV SN-L V2 OWL Fpv flight controller? And if so what do you think ? Because I'm considering one .
I am using the DragonLink system, yes! And it has been pretty good so far! As for that flight controller, I've not used it! If I had... there would have been a video about it on this channel! :)
Thanks for the review. I just ordered one as my first wing build coming from multi-rotors mostly for mountain surfing. I'm guessing my Crossfire/DJI system will be limiting but a good start. Is there a good introduction video for Dragonlink and/or the LR analog video setups people commonly run?
Hey... quite the upgrade from copters to a wing... hope it all goes well! DJI should be good for 10-ish kms... or so they say, so you are good there! I do have a video on the 433Mhz DragonLink system, but not a comprehensive one the video bit though...
Fantastic video as always Nikola! This wing is great looking and I like that is comes in white. I have the AR wing regular and Pro. I would like to get this white version also. The guy that helped create the AR Wing Pro, Lee Schofield, can help you with your tail wag issue and whatever else you need help with. I am sure you know his youtube channel, Painless360. But he joined Sonicmodell to come up with a new AR Wing and the Pro was born. I bet he has some good info for you. Happy flying!!
I am considering to do a series on setting up arduplane from start to finish, but will have to see when I will be able to do it, because I still have to complete a number of projects, and can't really start yet another one right now! But hopefully soon!
@@dougmcpheters1546 Right! Well, the advantage would be not needing to program a brake on the ESC, and even less of a change for it to break on landing, a bit reduced drag during gliding.
Hi, drop me a message on Facebook and I will get them off of the plane and send them to you, but for the maiden I pretty much used all default settings and PIDs!
@@Mrfunkyfpv Well, open your ESC's user manual, and in it would be a table of options that you can program using your transmitter! Just follow the instructions, it is quite easy!
very detailed! thanks alot for this, i'm looking to get in to RC planes myself, (flying Quadcopters freestyle for a few years already) looking for a wing that can be heavy so I can use a DJI System. and Crossfire RC
Thanks! I see! Well I have seen quite a few builds with the DJI system and also much heavier batteries than what I am using, so I guess it can take it! Just have to figure out the launch to be safe.
Well the solution for the waggle is "simple" - and not feasible on this foam thingie. You need a flying wing with bell shaped lift distribution (instead of elliptic), aka. flying wing with a twist in it as you go from the middle to the wingtip, with the twist leading to less and less angle of attack as you come closer to the tip. You need either that of a vertical control surface to not get dutch roll.
You're describing washout, and I've had wings with it, that still had plenty of yaw waggle. What washout does on a small wing like this is just narrow its speed range, because it's meant to handle spanwise flow, which changes angle as you speed up or slow down. If you set the washout for slower speeds, then as you go faster the wing pitches down (because the thicker center section dominates the lift) while the wing tips effectively come to have a negative angle of attack which increases drag. I've never seen a wing with washout that really worked well at anything but a single speed.
About the black color. When i got my first AR Wing. I didn't like that it's black due to the heat concern BUT NO. It didn't get hot surprisingly. It's cold. At the same time, the black decal on my skyhunter is fking hot exposed to sun. So i wonder if the AR Wing got some special black on the surface
Off to a flying start ha ha seriously mate great video, good to see you with a delta wing again but i dont see you giving up the twin pullers any time soon, nice work man
I made this wing for aerial mapping for rgb and Micasense. My version of this wing can be bought by requesting a quote at Draganfly Inc . Also I have a mechanism for launching this (It is a hand launching mechanism) . funny my wing is 1.6 kg also . I got 1h 20min (in extreme conditions I got 60 min of timeflight )while mapping with an rgb sensor (sony camera stripped), I also have lidar for autolanding and reverse thrust for autolanding. I even have a a way to protect the lenses using a hatch. I am currently testing it to fly against winds of 45 km/h and still mapp using the rgb sensor. Also I recommend using a tube pito. . For more information or video of this product capabilities please pm me or request a quote on the "Black Owl Wing" from Draganfly Inc .
Set your Ardu COMPASS_ENABLE to 0 along with the COMPASSx_USE to 0. This will get rid of the compass warning in Mission Planner. Of course I also disable the COMPASS from the pre-arm checks
you do not trimm if you have a flight controller you will mess up the surfaces if you put trim on the plane with a controller. make sure the wings are flat and level the flight controller can tune them by itself in auto tune
Great review. I'm not a fan of launching overhead(aka Prop-in-Face Method) like that. I have a TBS C2 and if you don't already have auto-launch programmed in, it's a real bear to launch anyway but the PIFM, which is odd b/c I don't ever remember seeing the Wipeout guys having to work very hard for their launches.
TBH I kinda like the raw footage compared to stabilized. Raw does have imperfections but its real, the way stabilized works on averaging image frames to eliminate shake makes the motion look fake, almost a CG effect. Makes the motion in the frame look staged and choreographed almost to the point that you wouldn't believe you are on a wing, which kinda takes away from the experience. Again just my opinion. Thanks for the video
Well, to each his own! I do hate shaky footage! It makes me dizzy! Yes, the stabilized one does look a bit weird... at times... but I much prefer to see a steady image, so I can enjoy the detail! :)
@@ArxangelRC from 433 up to 1.3 will cause interference. 868-927 is the biggest cuplrit. The other issue in these systems is a camera setting. 3dnr. Digital noise reduction. If camera has the option to turn it off, it should be off. If it has a manual setting, then set it to 0.
@@Just-A-Guy-Learning Hmmmm... have not seen such an option on the DJI Action Camera! As for the frequencies... I've done over 30kms with the DragonLink 433Mhz system and a TF running... and it has been fine! Actually it turned out I had the Vtx at 25mW for the initial flights... :D
@@ArxangelRC sorry. I should have been more clear. The 3dnr setting is in the fpv camera. Foxeer, runcam, caddx all have the option. Some allow to turn it off, and some have to be set to manual then set to 0. As long as your receiver isnt next to the telefly or its unshielded wires, everything should work great. If your telefly osd parameters ever reset like distance and battery consumption. It triggered a watch dog timer. Screen will say wdt and stats will reset. Caused by rf interference. If you have any features or additions you would like to see. Let me know.
Nice informative video as usual. After watching "HOW-TO Matek F765 Wing /w ArduPlane" I decided to give a try to Arduplane on my AR-Wing pro. Can you give me some tips about auto take-off settings please? Regard
Thank you! Actually on Ardu auto take off requires no settings other than the necessary foe the autopilot to be setup properly - proper accelerometer calibration, radio channel calibration, correct control surface movement in FBWA mode, and from the radio! Program take off on a switch, arm, flip it, it throttles up, you throw it... and that's it!
Always hated this version since day one. Other then being white its pointless, and whats Eachine got to do with it?.. Ar wing or pro all day long. Great video though as always
Very nice setup. Hope you get the video snow figured out. BonafidePirate has been flying and testing his AR Wing lately (also Ardupilot, recently adding airspeed sensor). His seems very stable and smooth. May be worth comparing notes, CoG, setup, PIDs, etc. Think his is lighter, which might make difference in handling.
Weight could make a difference indeed, but I may have to see about optimizing the video and radio antennas! Also... figured out the video issues... was running at 25mW... since I forgot to up that, and also I rearranged the gear... so I do believe it suffers from the power cables proximity less now too! Will do some range tests soon.
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Great plane. I bought it this summer, but I had different experience compared to you in regards to tip stall. I was flying in guided mode, tried to adjust the altitude by pulling the elevator to go up, but then when I released it, ArduPilot corrected it a bit by pushing the nose down. At this point the plane has reached its guided point and started loitering. Those 2 combined threw the wing into an unrecoverable spin. I was at 350m altitude. Tried pretty much everything I could think of but the plane just kept on spinning to the ground. This total lack of control made me think maybe one of the wing screws fell off and and I lost a wing. Spoiler alert - nope, haven't lost a wing.
I spent hour and a half trying to get to my plane, because it crashed kilometer and a half away in a pretty unpleasent to cross terrain. Thankfully to my 4G telemetry, I kept getting signal on my iPad and I knew exactly where it was. The only lucky thing that happened this day is that the field it crash on had only one bush and the plane perfectly hit it. No damage at all, just a very minor scratch which I am not even going to repair.
I agree for the CG markings. Looks like Sonic Model decided to play it safe and put them a bit to the front. I moved the center of gravity 1-2cm back and it seems a bit better, but still dips the nose in manual. Not sure if this change contributed to the spin though. I had 10 flights before that (40 minutes each) and I didn't have any problems whatsoever.
Damn... well yeah... that only confirms it... if there is 1 bush or tree in the middle of a field... the plane will hit it no matter what! Glad there was no damage! On the CG question... yes... moving the CG too far back will cause issues like that and tail heavy does make wings pretty much uncontrollable, even if tail heavy by a little! 2cm seems a lot...
How about moving the FC to the back compartment to allow more room to be able to adjust battery positions...and give the FC more separation form the FPV wires.
Well I already swapped the locations of the DragonLink receiver and the Vtx, and this seem to be better! Also... turned out the Vtx was running at 25mW... so that kind of explains part of the issue! The city has been a nightmare to fly FPV in recently... so it actually did pretty well considering! :D hahahaha
Finally a review of a wing :) I'm happy.
Haha, I am glad! :)
I run the CG in my AR Wing Pro about 10mm behind stock location to eliminate pitch bob, but then it's a bit more prone to tip stall to the left on launch (notice how yours rolled to the left after your throw) so I also replaced the stock foam winglets with much larger (longer, taller) coroplast winglets to restore yaw stability. Looking through some DJI FPV DVR footage I see a little yaw waggle in windy conditions, which is 100% eliminated with the Hero7's Hypersmooth. Maybe it's better than the Osmo's stabilization.
Right! I am not sure I will go 10mm behind, but I did try a few mm to the rear last few flights, and it does handle them well! Was not able to make it stall still!
Mine consistently torque rolls to the left then straight into the ground. On the other hand my AR Wing 900 has zero launch problems.
My AR Pro has its FC in the rear compartment. The yaw wiggle is caused by external drag. The airframe is very sensitive to external drag. My first one crashed a few times due to big external antennas (vas bluebeam 1.3ghz). TrueRC Singularity is good as it can be mounted inside the wing. Also consider mounting the dragonlink antenna with one half sticking out the bottom. This also increases efficiency a fair bit (100mah/km vs 120mah/km). The plane seems to be very reliable even compared to talon and skyhunter type of planes. Happy flying!
Well... sticking the antenna from the bottom is going to get it damaged on every landing...
@@ArxangelRC I used a immortal T style antenna with the flexible ground wire out the bottom
@@moritzadler4362 Right... doesn't it get damaged on landings, even though its flexible?
No, mine is still fine after 100+ Flights
@@moritzadler4362 Impressive! Alright... good to know!
I may give this one a try. I never liked the original AR wing but my Horizon Opterra has been a nice flying reliable perfomer
Sounds good! Seems to be getting mixed results with different people though! Some seem to have issues making it take off... others are generally happy with it...
Another great video! I'll fly wings and V-tail, but I prefer a traditional tail on my RC planes.
Yup, I hear that! Thanks!
I printed some fins similar to the ones on my ritewing hardcore to fit in the wing join gaps, just a little smaller than the hardcore. Wagging problem solved.
Oh... interesting! Any photos of that?
STL?
th-cam.com/video/s7n7uUDeZsw/w-d-xo.html
Here is a quick overview of my setup. This is my flagship wing and I think I've fixed the major shortcomings of the reference spec. Frsky Xact servos are the business, ultra speed and sbus precision ;). @ArxangelRC
@@ArxangelRC th-cam.com/video/s7n7uUDeZsw/w-d-xo.html
Wow. Great design. I'm definitely going to try these out, especially since mine already has some wiggle-room in the wing-to-fuselage joints.
If you add extra vertical surfaces to the top and bottom like the ritewing ritesepec ships with it will help with wag and make it pretty much stop. Just works better with a vertical surface below the wing as well as the top.
Right, yes, may try that! Has been mentioned before!
I put my air unit in the left bay and had to cut foam to get the coax cable back out on my arwing pro. when I wanted to remove it. It was easy to push the coax with it's grommet through, coming back out...not so easy.
Well the air unit is chunky... I assume it would have taken an effort to fit it there!
Hi there... on my Reptile S1100 and AR900 I fly with Sunnysky X2212 low KV and a 10x6 prop, it has plenty of power but as ecenomical to a point where I get bored to fly and land it before I empty the battery, on my Reptile I am using a 4S2P 21700 and I have put it on the ground with the bat at 47% 73 minutes after I toke off... I expect to get an AR Pro somewhere soon and this will be its power train setup for sure... try it yourself. Cheers
Right, well for the time being it flies good enough and long enough on the stock gear, so I see little point in investing in changes, but thanks for the info, will keep that in mind in case I decide something else! :)
Do you rent a storage locker? What do you do with all these planes?
Literally walk over them in my apartment, workshop and garage, since they've taken over every little bit of space now...
Hey should I use arduplane or inav for this build? I heard inav allows much better control of the sticks? I am going to be using an ELRS transmitter/receiver.
Not sure why iNav would allow for better control of the sticks... not sure what that means... but it will be a bit easier to configure... in theory! Ardu is a much more reliable code.
AutoTrim is amazing you just turn it on and leave it on. When you flick out of Crus - nothing - it'll be dead perfect trim.
Right... will have to read up on it! :) The idea is to make it the same whether it is Manual of any of the other modes!
Glad you released this video. I'm building my first wing right now. Subscribed because I've been watching a lot of your videos lately. Very helpful.
Thanks mate, glad its useful! :)
I use the RDQ's VTX powered directly by the flight battery and use the filtered 5v out from the same VTX to power the camera. I always have excellent video even with FC, ESC, R9 rcvr and VTX all stacked or next to each other, wires and all. But for long range I separate all as possible. I usually fly the Nano Goblin, The old Dart 635mm, a Ranger 1600 and a 5" Quad set up similarly.
Yes, separation is critical, especially for long range! I did move the gear around, but also found out another cause of the bad signal... it was running at 25mW!! :D
I found on this wing will fly well even on the back half of the CG marks, they are a little to forward. My AUW is 1290g's and it almost lost the majority of the reflex barring 1-2mm needed
Good to know! Somebody did mention they have it balanced at 10mm back from the stock CG markings, and it still flies well!
The wagging... looks like tail heavy?
This is actually one of the less wagging models! It is not tail heavy, would have noticed!
with regards tot he yaw wag, do you have any part of your elevons protruding down below the bottom of the air foil? this is a known issue with wings, one way around it would be to have a plastic sheet that is flexible enough to bend for down elevon but long enough that it stays flat on "up"
No, nothing is protruding below the plane!
i wonder about their thrust angle, it seems too varied between the same product...
Really?! Weird!
Wing-fences ... like Mig 15 or Mig 19 will solve the yaw/tail waggle.
Thanks, will check them out!
@@ArxangelRC and get that antenna straight into the wind. now its like you have a big airbrake on right side which doesnt help tailwaggle as well. i put all my antenna near center and doesnt let it stick out too much. less air drag. no waggle for me. like zero. (black AR WING PRO 1000)
@@cloudpandarism2627 Right! Yes... does appear I may have to do a few more mods!
What kind of weights did you use?? I need some.
Wheel balancing weights from a tire shop.
@@ArxangelRC thanks found some on Amazon!
@@attackfpv I just buy them from the local tire shop
What about the death spiral this plane likes to do if you go too slow?
Have not been able to make it go into a spiral yet!
@@ArxangelRC sure sure....
:)
The Dragon link system sounds pretty bad ass. Are you using it ? Because I think there is a different TH-cam channel using it . Have you tried the AFPV SN-L V2 OWL Fpv flight controller? And if so what do you think ? Because I'm considering one .
I am using the DragonLink system, yes! And it has been pretty good so far! As for that flight controller, I've not used it! If I had... there would have been a video about it on this channel! :)
Thanks for the review. I just ordered one as my first wing build coming from multi-rotors mostly for mountain surfing.
I'm guessing my Crossfire/DJI system will be limiting but a good start. Is there a good introduction video for Dragonlink and/or the LR analog video setups people commonly run?
Hey... quite the upgrade from copters to a wing... hope it all goes well! DJI should be good for 10-ish kms... or so they say, so you are good there! I do have a video on the 433Mhz DragonLink system, but not a comprehensive one the video bit though...
Fantastic video as always Nikola! This wing is great looking and I like that is comes in white. I have the AR wing regular and Pro. I would like to get this white version also. The guy that helped create the AR Wing Pro, Lee Schofield, can help you with your tail wag issue and whatever else you need help with. I am sure you know his youtube channel, Painless360. But he joined Sonicmodell to come up with a new AR Wing and the Pro was born. I bet he has some good info for you. Happy flying!!
I am glad you like the video! Didn't know he was involved in the design! Thanks for the info!
@arxangelRC man can you make a full tutorial to start w/ autonomous flying
I am considering to do a series on setting up arduplane from start to finish, but will have to see when I will be able to do it, because I still have to complete a number of projects, and can't really start yet another one right now! But hopefully soon!
@@ArxangelRC Just what I wanted to hear. Thank you!
@@vishwassharma7741 :)
Hey there, mighty fine video! For this model and as heavy as you have it, would there be any advantages having a feathering prop? Thanks!
Thanks! Feathering prop?! You mean... folding?
@@ArxangelRC yes
@@dougmcpheters1546 Right! Well, the advantage would be not needing to program a brake on the ESC, and even less of a change for it to break on landing, a bit reduced drag during gliding.
I didn't managed to make it fly, yet.
Can you please share your PID settings? :)
Thank you.
Hi, drop me a message on Facebook and I will get them off of the plane and send them to you, but for the maiden I pretty much used all default settings and PIDs!
3:15 LOL thanks again Arx can you tell us how to get a LVC on the ESC
How to remove the LVC you mean?
@@ArxangelRC how to lower the low voltage cut off like to get the full amount out of my lions and my esc cuts at 12v when using a 4s
@@Mrfunkyfpv Well, open your ESC's user manual, and in it would be a table of options that you can program using your transmitter! Just follow the instructions, it is quite easy!
very detailed! thanks alot for this, i'm looking to get in to RC planes myself, (flying Quadcopters freestyle for a few years already) looking for a wing that can be heavy so I can use a DJI System. and Crossfire RC
Thanks! I see! Well I have seen quite a few builds with the DJI system and also much heavier batteries than what I am using, so I guess it can take it! Just have to figure out the launch to be safe.
@@ArxangelRC i talked about this plane to some RC friends and they say Deltawings are hard to fly (for a fixedwing beginner) is that true?
Well yes, not the best plane for a beginner for sure.
Nice wing, for a wing.
Haha, indeed!
Well the solution for the waggle is "simple" - and not feasible on this foam thingie.
You need a flying wing with bell shaped lift distribution (instead of elliptic), aka. flying wing with a twist in it as you go from the middle to the wingtip, with the twist leading to less and less angle of attack as you come closer to the tip.
You need either that of a vertical control surface to not get dutch roll.
You're describing washout, and I've had wings with it, that still had plenty of yaw waggle. What washout does on a small wing like this is just narrow its speed range, because it's meant to handle spanwise flow, which changes angle as you speed up or slow down. If you set the washout for slower speeds, then as you go faster the wing pitches down (because the thicker center section dominates the lift) while the wing tips effectively come to have a negative angle of attack which increases drag. I've never seen a wing with washout that really worked well at anything but a single speed.
Right... interesting information... glad it doesn't relate to my issue because this sounds way too complicated anyway!
About the black color. When i got my first AR Wing. I didn't like that it's black due to the heat concern BUT NO. It didn't get hot surprisingly. It's cold. At the same time, the black decal on my skyhunter is fking hot exposed to sun. So i wonder if the AR Wing got some special black on the surface
Interesting... well... black is black... darker colours always attract more sun and heat...
@@ArxangelRC yes that's what I thought, but not the case with the AR Wing's black 😂😂😂 odd
@@ArxangelRC and i live in a tropical country that is hot all 365 days. it's suck
@@EdwardChew Well I wouldn't know! Don't have the black one! :)
I got out to 4.72 miles same VTX , running a 5200 mAh lipo
Well turned out I had the Vtx at 25mW... hence the poor distance!
Off to a flying start ha ha seriously mate great video, good to see you with a delta wing again but i dont see you giving up the twin pullers any time soon, nice work man
Yeah, not going to give them up! They are the best! :) Thanks!
You need to put a little drag to the wings or maybe vortex generator fin..
Yeah, I will figure something out to try! :) Thanks!
@@ArxangelRC after 1 month.. im sad :'(
@@skelethornbro Well... yeah... its going slow around here because I am busy with some other critical stuff... so it is a struggle!
What about damage to the prop or motor mount at landing?
None yet, despite my best efforts... at least not from planned and controlled landings! :P
I made this wing for aerial mapping for rgb and Micasense. My version of this wing can be bought by requesting a quote at Draganfly Inc . Also I have a mechanism for launching this (It is a hand launching mechanism) . funny my wing is 1.6 kg also . I got 1h 20min (in extreme conditions I got 60 min of timeflight )while mapping with an rgb sensor (sony camera stripped), I also have lidar for autolanding and reverse thrust for autolanding. I even have a a way to protect the lenses using a hatch. I am currently testing it to fly against winds of 45 km/h and still mapp using the rgb sensor. Also I recommend using a tube pito. . For more information or video of this product capabilities please pm me or request a quote on the "Black Owl Wing" from Draganfly Inc .
:) Good to know!
Set your Ardu COMPASS_ENABLE to 0 along with the COMPASSx_USE to 0. This will get rid of the compass warning in Mission Planner. Of course I also disable the COMPASS from the pre-arm checks
Right, thanks, might try that too!
you do not trimm if you have a flight controller you will mess up the surfaces if you put trim on the plane with a controller. make sure the wings are flat and level the flight controller can tune them by itself in auto tune
Right... well perhaps with iNav you can't... but ArduPilot has no complains about trimming, though it is a good idea to know what you are doing! :)
Great review. I'm not a fan of launching overhead(aka Prop-in-Face Method) like that. I have a TBS C2 and if you don't already have auto-launch programmed in, it's a real bear to launch anyway but the PIFM, which is odd b/c I don't ever remember seeing the Wipeout guys having to work very hard for their launches.
Thanks! Actually this method seems to work well for this plane! I rather like it, and keeps my fingers away from the prop!
TBH I kinda like the raw footage compared to stabilized. Raw does have imperfections but its real, the way stabilized works on averaging image frames to eliminate shake makes the motion look fake, almost a CG effect. Makes the motion in the frame look staged and choreographed almost to the point that you wouldn't believe you are on a wing, which kinda takes away from the experience. Again just my opinion. Thanks for the video
Well, to each his own! I do hate shaky footage! It makes me dizzy! Yes, the stabilized one does look a bit weird... at times... but I much prefer to see a steady image, so I can enjoy the detail! :)
They telefly products do not like anything near the 915 band. It will cause interference if its anywhere near the receiver wires.
Well... it is not! And 868 should be a good way away...
@@ArxangelRC from 433 up to 1.3 will cause interference. 868-927 is the biggest cuplrit. The other issue in these systems is a camera setting. 3dnr. Digital noise reduction. If camera has the option to turn it off, it should be off. If it has a manual setting, then set it to 0.
@@Just-A-Guy-Learning Hmmmm... have not seen such an option on the DJI Action Camera! As for the frequencies... I've done over 30kms with the DragonLink 433Mhz system and a TF running... and it has been fine! Actually it turned out I had the Vtx at 25mW for the initial flights... :D
@@ArxangelRC sorry. I should have been more clear. The 3dnr setting is in the fpv camera. Foxeer, runcam, caddx all have the option. Some allow to turn it off, and some have to be set to manual then set to 0. As long as your receiver isnt next to the telefly or its unshielded wires, everything should work great. If your telefly osd parameters ever reset like distance and battery consumption. It triggered a watch dog timer. Screen will say wdt and stats will reset. Caused by rf interference. If you have any features or additions you would like to see. Let me know.
@@Just-A-Guy-Learning I actually do not use the telefly's OSD. Also, the camera has no OSD menu... so can't turn anything on or off!
Great review...but the big news in the video is the Dragonlink at 868 Mhz 😃 !!!
Thanks! Hahaha... yeah... link wise it seems amazing now... telemetry may still need some work though!
Fantastic ! Great share 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Your accent sounds so familiar, what is your nationality?
Bulgarian!
I think you are the first owner who had to add tail weight ;)
Well that would be a surprise! :)
Nice informative video as usual. After watching "HOW-TO Matek F765 Wing /w ArduPlane" I decided to give a try to Arduplane on my AR-Wing pro. Can you give me some tips about auto take-off settings please? Regard
Thank you! Actually on Ardu auto take off requires no settings other than the necessary foe the autopilot to be setup properly - proper accelerometer calibration, radio channel calibration, correct control surface movement in FBWA mode, and from the radio! Program take off on a switch, arm, flip it, it throttles up, you throw it... and that's it!
@@ArxangelRC thanks for Your quick answer. well appreciated.
@@papylecelte9916 You are welcome! :)
thank you!
You are welcome!
Nice!
Thanks! :)
Your video link is getting steadily worse...How come there's no "interference" when you're nearer home?...🤔🤔😳😳🇬🇧
Turned out its because Vtx was at 25mW! :D
@@ArxangelRC Ooops...😳😳😀
@@EnglishTurbines Yeah... works much better at 1600mW apparently!
Check out Bonafide Pirate his AR Pro doesn't wag, it flies on rails!
OK, will check it out. Thanks!
put a MAGNET IN THE VIDEO WIRE FROM FC TO VTX SO THE VIDEO SIGNAL DOSE NOT GET BAD SIGNAL FROM OTHER COMPONETS
A bit of rewiring of the plane fixed that!
wrong you don't know how to tune a plane on inav. you don't put trim on your plane if your using a flight controller
Well iNav is so sensitive you can't really do anything, else it crashes like a little b*tch! That is why I stick to Ardu! No such drama there!
@@ArxangelRC lmao you trimmed your shit thats why you suck at inav lol
@@ArxangelRC to each his own I love Inav
@@staydown.normal5323 Yup!
Hated mine. Like the original better. Way easier to launch.
Right... yes... last throw attempt wasn't successful for some reason...
Least you use real autopilot and not inav
hahaha, true! :P
Always hated this version since day one. Other then being white its pointless, and whats Eachine got to do with it?.. Ar wing or pro all day long. Great video though as always
I assume the fact that its white is their version of it... so they have found a chance to attach their name to it! :)
Как же режет твой английский! Без обид.
Not sure what you mean!
whats the difference between this and the normal ar pro... just the colour??? @arxangelrc
What is a normal AR Pro? Not aware of different versions other than the colour!
Very nice setup. Hope you get the video snow figured out.
BonafidePirate has been flying and testing his AR Wing lately (also Ardupilot, recently adding airspeed sensor). His seems very stable and smooth. May be worth comparing notes, CoG, setup, PIDs, etc. Think his is lighter, which might make difference in handling.
Weight could make a difference indeed, but I may have to see about optimizing the video and radio antennas! Also... figured out the video issues... was running at 25mW... since I forgot to up that, and also I rearranged the gear... so I do believe it suffers from the power cables proximity less now too! Will do some range tests soon.