here is a quick and simple way to improve the cinch buckles check out part 2 here • cinch buckle optimizat... like to leave me a tip and help me make more content ? www.paypal.com...
🤯 I wondered why I was getting occasional wear points on my straps. Thought it was quality issue.. but as usual my father’s voice in my head was correct “you’re doing it wrong!” Thanks for the great video!
Genius! I've been bringing my excess strap back up and half hitching it to my standing webbing line to create a redundant water break (not to lock the buckle's toggle as you show (using Ann Marie's breeze buckle so no toggle on mine), just so the excess isn't hanging to the ground with a shorter tree distance, and for the extra water break.) I'll be trying out your water break method as it looks like it'll be just as effective yet just a few seconds quicker lol. Thanks for sharing as always, Jeff!
With very heavy rain, it will not work properly - water will flow into the hammock. Here it is best to use a multi-stage water dam. #1. Flat and tight mechanical lock on the tape (can be in several places) #2. Gravity drain on a metal buckle. #3. Gravity drain / or tight mechanical lock on Dyneema line. Checked. A hammock is not a solution to the problem. There is also a tarp.
I use UL Venom straps I bought off RipstopBTR and made myself wth cinch buckles, you're warned against using that material with cinches but I find if I tie the knot like you show first it locks it in, prevents slipping, breaks water better, and saves weight...all in one.
#1. This buckle is not the best solution - disqualification. I recommend a professional chinch buckle with a movable clamping bar from the paraglider. #2. The free end should be threaded through wide loops, which stabilizes both straps. They can be made of polyester or rubber (a bicycle tube - nothing moves and does not loosen).
🤯 I wondered why I was getting occasional wear points on my straps. Thought it was quality issue.. but as usual my father’s voice in my head was correct “you’re doing it wrong!”
Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the view and comment!
Awesome advice! Thanks!
thanks for the view and comment!
We need more Jeff Myers videos! 👍😁
thank you !
Cool tips
Thanks!
Genius! I've been bringing my excess strap back up and half hitching it to my standing webbing line to create a redundant water break (not to lock the buckle's toggle as you show (using Ann Marie's breeze buckle so no toggle on mine), just so the excess isn't hanging to the ground with a shorter tree distance, and for the extra water break.) I'll be trying out your water break method as it looks like it'll be just as effective yet just a few seconds quicker lol. Thanks for sharing as always, Jeff!
hope it works for you :)
With very heavy rain, it will not work properly - water will flow into the hammock. Here it is best to use a multi-stage water dam. #1. Flat and tight mechanical lock on the tape (can be in several places) #2. Gravity drain on a metal buckle. #3. Gravity drain / or tight mechanical lock on Dyneema line. Checked. A hammock is not a solution to the problem. There is also a tarp.
I use UL Venom straps I bought off RipstopBTR and made myself wth cinch buckles, you're warned against using that material with cinches but I find if I tie the knot like you show first it locks it in, prevents slipping, breaks water better, and saves weight...all in one.
good going!
#1. This buckle is not the best solution - disqualification. I recommend a professional chinch buckle with a movable clamping bar from the paraglider.
#2. The free end should be threaded through wide loops, which stabilizes both straps. They can be made of polyester or rubber (a bicycle tube - nothing moves and does not loosen).
true!
Am I doin it backerds?my tail is always on the bottom aimed at the ground....
I just hook my underquilt carabiners in the opening then the latch can't turn
good idea