Y'all - Ok, so my brain is obviously mangled from this week, and while I thought I had put enough full-body pans of the garment in this video, I obviously didn't do it enough. So I've uploaded *all the photos I have* of this outfit onto my Patreon as a public post - you can find them here: www.patreon.com/posts/42629730 - I might have more on my SD card than what is shown here, so if I have any more, I'll be adding them to this group later today. ❤️ Sorry for any disappointment or frustration this has caused (also, currently going to go beat myself up over this the rest of the day, because this is literally one of my most favorite pieces and I have been looking forward to sharing this with all of you and I'm really aggro at myself for not doing it justice.)
Don’t beat yourself up about it! I think maybe for the future it might be helpful to add a full length static shot rather than just pans... sometimes when the camera is travelling my brain lags behind in processing the bits and pieces into a full conception of what the garment looks like, so a boring establishing shot from a distance can be useful.
I'm sorry I like tunics because of my medical issue I didn't mean to make you feel bad but if I had a pattern for that one I would totally make it in green, blue, brown and maybe even black hugs
I find it funny that now we have all kinds of machines and technology but we have very simple clothing (for the most part) but in the past when it was harder to make clothing it was all kinds of complicated. I also find it kind of sad that so many of the techniques were lost to time too.
I agree! I think maybe because we are able to have such excess to details matter less, whereas if you only have a few dresses to wear all season they’d better be really pretty!
It's in part because of costs. Fabric then was still relatively expensive while the labour to sew the clothes was less. That dress had to last. Now with automated cloth production the fabric is cheap but the only cheap labour is in the sweatshops of Asia, and the companies using that labour want the profits of high turnover, not high quality.
@@leonamay8776 yes, and look at how the big box stores are still trying to screw down the price they pay. Every cent less per garment is tens or hundreds of thousands more profit.
My grandmother was a seamstress who learned to sew in the 1920s. One of my earliest memories of her is saying "if you are making clothes for yourself, make sure to provide an inch or two of seam allowance an extra in the hem - that way you have spare fabric for repairs or alterations later on"
Crowing Hen that is genius! I usually make my kids hems a bit longer so I can lengthen things easily as they are growing like weeds. But I didn’t think of adding extra for myself for repairs. I usually just try to keep a few swatches of fabric of anything I make so I can patch or repair things later, but how much better to have it on the garment where you can’t lose it. It’s like those marvelous garments that have extra buttons sewn on the inside so you can replace them if needed.
Witch's clothes? A Grandmother of mine in 1692 was hung and her sister, for being a witch, I wonder if she wore her best outfit for the hanging! You may have heard of her Rebecca Nurse, and Mary Towne, the family was well off, with land.😢
My son overheard the “witchy, gothy, vampy, queen” description and said, “is she talking about you?” 😂😂😂. What an amazing garment! Thanks for sharing!!! ❤️
I heard that in heirloom sewing for children you want to use weaker thread/stitching so that if/when they tear it the seam will give rather than the seam holding and the fabric ripping. I kind of think that way about hems that will catch if you use larger stitching at least the material doesn’t tear just a thought what an extraordinary garment!
Very fair points. I think personally I'd renenforce the hem either all the way around or around the back with leather to help protect it from dragging or heel catching.
Spiritualism was HUGE right at this time after WW1 and there were mediums and psychics EVERYWHERE. All the fashionable (and other people who lost loved ones in the Great War) held seances for fun with their friends and stuff. So I wonder if this dress was made for a medium or some other type of spiritualist. Also could be a mourning dress. Mourning for a long period of time was starting to fall out of fashion so it's possible this was commissioned for that or a funeral of some type. Part of the reason I'm so interested in historical fashion pieces is the stories behind each garment. I'm dying to know who wore this dress and why.
Strikes me as a statement piece. What the statement made for I couldn't say but seems very independent or individualistic. Agree it would be great to hear the history of/about who commissioned this and its use.
@@tammyt3434 yes! And it's such a great transition from 19th cebtury fashion to 20th century fashion. I mean, yeah, the 1900s are 20th century but the fashions are much closer to Victorian than what we see throughout the rest of the 20th century. The 1910s had such creative pieces.
I’m definitely attempting a capsule wardrobe significantly influenced by the Edwardian era. I have always loved that style of clothing. But then, I really like the 30’s and 40’s fashion-wise as well. So, it will be a weird mashup of those fashion eras. But it’s my wardrobe, so I get to make and wear what I like.
Those “piped” seams almost look like they were reversed French seams. But I’m not looking at it in person, just from the video angle. Edited to add, and is no one talking about how gorgeous that fabric is? I have never seen a more beautiful black fabric!
I swear, if we do not get a multi-season word for word accurate adaption of Discworld and Granny Weatherwax isn't wearing this, I am going to write a STRONGLY worded howler to the powers that be
I love this comment for so many reasons! I stan Granny Weatherwax so, so much. And aside from few details (I couldn't catch a unicorn) I aspire to be just like her.
Hmm. I feel like she would have this in her closet and would never wear it. She would love so much about this garment, but would be very severe with herself that she would be led astray by fripperies and "show". Keep it because she loves it, but NEVER EVER wear it
@@lclarndt another literary character i picture in this is the Dowager Duchess from the Lord Peter Wimsey stories by Dorothy L. Sayers, in unadorned but exquisite tweed
Oh my goodness... this is the level of stylish witchery that I aspire too. What a dazzling spooktacular look. That collar and the texture is swoon worthy.
This dress just calls to me!! I swear I’ve dreamt about it so many times (well, a very similar dress, anyway). I cannot wait for the delicious details. Thank you for the link to Nicole’s channel! I subscribed instantly. On a side note, I noticed your sign that says, “Tarot Readings.” I’ve read Tarot for YEARS! I’m also delighted you were sponsored by Skillshare. My nerdy heart is so excited for a free trial!! Love, light, and blessings, dear lady, and see you next week.
WAHHHH!!! I've just started really trying to learn tarot! I've done oracle for years, but my mom and i both have made it a point to learn more about tarot for 2020! 😍😍😍
Abby focuses on the bottom + Nicole focusing on the top = One super dress historian!! (The joke in my head was hilarious and involved both of in historical super hero costumes!)
Putting the interfacing at the seams and pretend seams is so smart! One of my first projects was with a brocade like this and the weave is so shifty, everything just sagged. I wish I'd known then what I know now. It's really validating to see the inside of this historic piece and see that they had problems with the fabric's stability then too.
I thought it was really interesting what you guys were saying about there being a lot of structure going into looking organic because it really reminded me of art nouveau - that really had a similar sort of odd mix of movement and stasis, flow and structure. I know art nouveau was a smidge earlier but I wonder if/how much that fed into other forms of art/craft like clothing.
Remnants of the nouveau movement blended with the Arts and Crafts movement in terms of design and they bridged the period of design up until Art Deco arose around 1920. So yes, I agree that this dress fits with the Art Nouveau design forms. Such movements had flow on effects into every aspect of life that could be designed. I speak as an Artist and Designer who focuses on Architectural and Interior Design history (& further back into Archaeological artefacts that explore design). The fashionable and affluent embraced the counter movement from the 1890's to the 1910's which was against the mass production of items which made them more affordable for common people. They used their wealth to obtain items that showed signs of Craftsmanship. Items that were handmade, bespoke, and by their asymmetry, impossible to mass produce.
Nicole: giant seam allowances would not allow you to adjust the embroidery. Abby: it is not complicated embroidery, it is just satin stitches.... Me (the newbie): I am wondering if the owner added the embroidery, is there any way to tell? Also me (the newbie): loving the high-waisted Edwardian skirts. Me again: yes, please would like a link to Nicole's channel.
Def not owner - it was done by the professionals based off of how it was done, when in the process etc. ☺️ Nicole’s channel: th-cam.com/channels/ca-WkVPVe9nzs2iFct4wxg.html ❤️❤️
The embroidery was added before the (now gone) lining was fitted. It's possible it was done to some pieces before they were sewn together, but some were obviously done after (even as an afterthought - like when she went in for a fitting and said "I'd like some chevrons put "here"").
I had only ever seen the etching/catalogue pics of that style collar/bodice. OH MY STARS...it is even more epic than I imagined it could possibly be🤩🤩🤩. This garment pretty much solidifies the mid to late teens as MY era. But in general I am drawn to any of the eras that are transition points. I really hope you end up drafting a pattern for this. I'd be curious to see if starting with the same base layer, how the two of you would differ in how to approach the draping of the skirt.
For the waistband... It looks like Petersham ribbon. I've made several skirts with this waistband treatment. They are very comfortable and a lot less bulky. Plus, the ribbon is easy to mold into a curve with an iron. Here's the Wikipedia link... en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petersham_ribbon
I’m going to conjecture that this is a typical couture/bespoke dress from the 1910’s, in so far as the whole ensemble includes classic couture tailoring techniques AND the embellishments of drapery and embroidery could be construed as features that a couture designer would incorporate into the styling of the garment to ensure that the ensemble had the distinctive and unique features that would mark it out to contemporary friends/family of this garment’s owner that she was a woman of elegant and fashionable taste. It may or may not be a product of a well-known Fashion house of the 1910’s (without a label it’s impossible to know, unless the dress were magically to appear in an extant catalogue.), but it looks to me like something that any competent, high-end couture dressmaking house could/would make for a discerning client.
I would have liked to see more of an entire shot of the outfit as well as just close ups. I watched the entire vid to see it and well it didn't happen.
Such a gorgeous piece!! However I found it difficult to understand without a full shot of the whole outfit at once (damn my extremely visual brain), can I find one anywhere or am I just missing it in the video??
@@AbbyCox the pans are awesome for showing the details, and even the whole top, but I can't envisage how it works with the skirt 😅 basically a still of the full mannequin head to toe would help me put it all together in my head! No idea if anyone else gets this too, and honestly I didn't expect any reply haha! So thanks x Edit, and I now see that you've linked to full images - thanks so much!!
@@MsJosiejo32 I agree. A nice long still shot of the whole garment is so helpful. The pans are helpful, too, but my brain also needs to see the whole thing, front and back.
You know when you're relatively early to a video and haven't watched it all the way yet so you dont know what to comment. But at the same time you also wanna comment while you're somewhat early? So I'll just say this. HI ABBYYYYYYYY
The more we learn the less we realize what we actually know. It's so fascinating watching your videos on your collection and learning what they did in the past. Thanks I also subscribed to Nicole's channel looking forward to watching her videos.
I absolutely adore when Nicole is with you. You both have so much knowledge and passion! It's inspiring for a brazilian fashion designer like me. I learn a lot about construction, textile, details and patterns that I missed during collage and studied by myself. Best old clothing channel! THANK YOU!
The hematite finished buttons are just life. I love them on the cuff and also repeated in 3 on the bodice. Between the finishing of the seams and the coordinating embroidery. Wow!
Amanda H it looks like more of a shiny gunmetal finish, made me think of hematite. Could be a ceramic button with a special finish too. It’s just a guess but no way of knowing without destroying a button and that’s no worth it.
Great video, I really enjoyed. Don't beat yourself up nobody's perfect. The style of the skirt looked familiar to me. I have a pattern I got on easy, i think. Anyway it's also on archive.org for free. The national garment cutter book of diagrams Its page 11 and has a diagram for measurements. 🙂Enjoy.
The National Garment Cutter Book of Diagrams. I wonder why it didn't link that. 🤔 It's got some nice looking garments in it. Page 11 is the skirt that looks close to this one of Abby's.
I definitely agree that more then one person was involved in making this piece, but I think it's hard to say how many people would have been involved. From my great grandparents generation, most of everyone seemed to have more then a handful of fine-tuned skills and then from the "boomers" on people seemed to get more specialized/ narrower in scope. My great-grandmother was employed by the Danish royal family for at least a decade, somewhere in the textile zone of servitude (but I don't know her exact role / title). When she came to America in the early 1920s, she made most of her own clothes and her husband's clothes including his suits. She seemed to have tailoring knowledge for men's suits, could make her own lace and then for woman's and girls clothes (girls clothes for my grandmother and later my mother) she seemed to stick with just the casual fashions of the time. With pieces she made for herself in the 1920s and 1930s, it looks like she sometimes made a cocoon coat or a simple skirt/jacket combo but she mostly stuck with the "one hour dress" look and the more sack-ish loose fashions of the day which were easy in their construction (she was a modern day size 18+ lady). Lace seemed to be something she made right up towards the end of her lifetime, but in terms of physical evidence and photographs it seems like she only applied lace to old lady crafty projects and table cloths.
It's so pretty, very witchy. I imagine the owner wearing it with lace blouse underneath it, with equally witchy hat, hair to the floor, cat being her familiar and living in a stylish gothic apartment. It just have this much character. Damn, it's delicious. I would like this set in my wardrobe, thank you :D
Sometimes i watch these videos and wonder which unfortunate future fashion nerd will find my home-sewn garments in a landfill and will be tearing their hair out trying to decipher my stitching and binding and what not
Omg. Nicole keeps talking about making it and i am in love. Please make this. I would love to see a video on making this. And i would love to buy the pdf about this dress eventually.
I don't know how you do it, how you don't faint from excitement handling these clothes. :D I seriously had to pause video in the middle, cause it was too much gorgeousness for me. LOL
Hi Ms Abby, could you share with us how you clean vintage clothes? I wonder how you get rid of the stains & musty smell. I heard that people at theaters spray costumes with alcohol but I'm not sure if it is a good idea for delicate fabrics such as silk & wool. Is there any no-wash trick? Many thanks & stay safe.
Ok, so maybe you only know the wibbly-wobbly timey-wimey phrase through nerd osmosis, which would be fair, but in case you don’t...Nicole is literally my headcanon for if River Song regenerated, complete with clothing-based archeology skills.
I have a theory about the messy hem - I think it was the person's modification, which they made by themselves at home? You don't necessarily want to pay a seamstress every time and people had basic knowledge of these seams. Like, nowadays at thrift shops I often find a clothing piece with some sewing done to it, with variations of skill, why would the "old times" be any different? Just a thought
This is just fantastic. I love it all. And that hem repair in white cotton? I feel a kindred spirit, it looks like my attempts. A sewist I am not! Abbey please don't beat yourself up, I loved this video and a lot of the time like seeing the insides more than the outside often! 😉😘
What about those meaningless buttons on the sides of the bust (which match the buttons on the sleeves)? What about that Cruella DeVille collar? And didn't the wearer have to start with drawers, chemise, corset,maybe a blouse or an ascot or a dickie. Whereas when I get dressed, I put on a bra and panties, leggings, and a t-shirt, and shoes, and I'm dressed.
Loved the video! The tunic is amazing and looks sinister at the same time. There's something about the Edwardian era that stands out from all the rest that makes it's own statements. I think it would be fun remaking this outfit. I say go for it!
New to your channel but I do have questions that you may have already addressed. With regard to the garment could its construction have been carried out in a method similar to quilting groups in which a group of women with different skill sets work on a dress set as shown in the video? Are there sewing methods that could be considered as specific to a certain region of the country say like a New England aesthetic vs. Southern aesthetic towards the construction of the garments? Finally with the decorative details could these details act as a form of thermal finishing to allow the garment to retain heat while keeping the chill out?
A-“Well that was an adventure...” N-“Wee!” 😂🤣Lmao love you two together, and that piece is amazing! This needs to be remade cuz I need to see this on an actual person🖤
The older I get, the more I am slowly turning into either a witch or a well dressed woman in gentleman's clothing. No in-between xD Anyway, now I have new goals. And a new project to sew
It's just such a beautiful garment, perfect for the month of October. Though I love that people are still people no matter the time period. Of course wearing a skirt that length, the wearer would get the hem caught by their shoe and would do a half job mending it. Because that's what you do, especially with a part that people aren't gonna see. And that can easily get broken again cause of where it's located.
I adore how you said “Any-Hoo!!” My friends always make fun of me for saying that🤣 this makes my little nerdy heart so happy 👏🏻 ...& Of course pretty cool video looking into your Antique Garment. 😜
It is a gorgeous dress, and it’s a real thought that it would have taken so many people to make this (probably lol). Nicole is an awesome friend. Thank you for sharing!
I have only seen a few vintage handmade garments and I’m always surprised at how unfinished, or poorly finished, they are on the inside. For some reason, I expected all this rough work to be covered with beautiful silk or cambric linings.
This is SOOOOOO fascinating!!! I am sooo happy I found your channel. I haven't collected any TRUE vintage in a while. I did have a GORGEOUS two piece negligee set from the 1920s. I had a lace and linen top from around 1890s, and I had a dress from about the 1930s.. It was a gown. And then more modern vintage, I had a SUPER cute coral colored two piece gown and bolero from the 70s. And it is past tense... sadly!!! I no longer have these pieces. I appreciate you soooo much!!!
Very good photographs. So a well off lady, went into a dressmaker or they came to her, measurements were taken she gave an idea of the style and that she wanted the embroidery.so that might be started. Then she met them again, the skirt was draped the embroidery agreed on? , Then the top ? The outfit was finished so where was she going to go in it, a Stylish young widow ? or would it be considered to elaborate for that? You will guess I am not a sewer but am interested in history and social mores
Taking over the Board of Directors meeting to run your husbands empire the way he wanted it run... not exactly cracking skulls but pointing imperiously at the door and issuing invitation to “accept the yoke of service to the Noble Aims of My Dearly Departed Husband, or Leave!”
Is it just me or does this fit nicely into the theme of next year's costume college? 🤔 This dress is such an asthetic of its own and I love it 🥰 I can't wait to see Nicole's future videos!
Wow this one is exquisite..For it’s age it’s in extremely great condition.The material is beautiful and the embroidery is gorgeous..One big Question ..Are you going to make a copy of it ? 🥰
There’s literally a pan of it in the opening shot... I’m not saying I could have added more full body shots (I thought I did, but this week was *busy* for me and I was working under a tight deadline.) but I always establish an antique dress video with an opening shot of the garment....
@@AbbyCox yeah, could we please have this wounderous, dark academia, Gothy, gown as a group outfit? (You know, like a certain cape cult that's out there.)
Not really sure if comments are still a thing on videos as old as this one, but just had to say that I totally channel the original constructor of that black suit when I'm sewing. It's literally no-hold-barred improvisation by the time my ADHD delivers me to the last hour before deadline with half an outfit and a general idea of how much of the originally envisaged splendor I can manage to fake before I hide the last piece of duct tape under a frill of lace. Never boring, but a little nerve-wracking for everyday use!
I've been watching Abby cox for several years and just realized I wasn't subscribed. Fixed that right away☺️😅 Any how amazing video as always. Thank you so much for giving me what's going to be my new aesthetic.
Ok you museum archival folks, a major textile problem. I have a 1930s-40s, red, Japanese kimono I had hanging because I love looking at it but unknown to me was a freshly placed glue trap to catch mice. Hold on.......my beautiful kimono somehow “fell” (my husband admits to nothing and hates my kimono collection) and some of the hem plopped into the thick glue trap and now has thick, sticky glue on it. I delicately removed the trap from the kimono but it still has thick glue that needs to be removed. I live in the D.C. area and was thinking to call someone at the Smithsonian but I don’t know whom to ask or where to start. Any suggestions?
The BELLS!?!??! Why is no one talking about the bells attached to the garmet? If you know, plz reply! I hope I do not get buried bc I REALLY want to know what is up with the bells!!!! Id imagine that this is a mourning garment and maybe the bells are there to scare off evil spirits? The bells are attached (I think) at the wrist/sleeves and on the bodice. I'd imagine that the wearer would be making a bit of noise when moving their arms and or walking??? I live for their feedback on the construction but there could've been more of an explanation on the purpose of the garment and its different features.
![ได้เวลา! พาน้องแฝดฉีดวัคซีนครบ 1 เดือน🫣 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.52 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IzeLtaXBLNE/mqdefault.jpg)
Y'all - Ok, so my brain is obviously mangled from this week, and while I thought I had put enough full-body pans of the garment in this video, I obviously didn't do it enough. So I've uploaded *all the photos I have* of this outfit onto my Patreon as a public post - you can find them here: www.patreon.com/posts/42629730 - I might have more on my SD card than what is shown here, so if I have any more, I'll be adding them to this group later today. ❤️ Sorry for any disappointment or frustration this has caused (also, currently going to go beat myself up over this the rest of the day, because this is literally one of my most favorite pieces and I have been looking forward to sharing this with all of you and I'm really aggro at myself for not doing it justice.)
Thank you so much for doing this!
Don't beat yourself up, the video came out great!
Don’t beat yourself up about it! I think maybe for the future it might be helpful to add a full length static shot rather than just pans... sometimes when the camera is travelling my brain lags behind in processing the bits and pieces into a full conception of what the garment looks like, so a boring establishing shot from a distance can be useful.
I'm sorry I like tunics because of my medical issue I didn't mean to make you feel bad but if I had a pattern for that one I would totally make it in green, blue, brown and maybe even black hugs
We forgive you Abby!
I find it funny that now we have all kinds of machines and technology but we have very simple clothing (for the most part) but in the past when it was harder to make clothing it was all kinds of complicated. I also find it kind of sad that so many of the techniques were lost to time too.
I agree! I think maybe because we are able to have such excess to details matter less, whereas if you only have a few dresses to wear all season they’d better be really pretty!
It's in part because of costs. Fabric then was still relatively expensive while the labour to sew the clothes was less. That dress had to last. Now with automated cloth production the fabric is cheap but the only cheap labour is in the sweatshops of Asia, and the companies using that labour want the profits of high turnover, not high quality.
Not in couture, but it all comes from the factory now that’s because of the industrial revolution
@@fionaanderson5796 the cost of production / aka what workers are paid is still extremely low though.
@@leonamay8776 yes, and look at how the big box stores are still trying to screw down the price they pay. Every cent less per garment is tens or hundreds of thousands more profit.
I have always loved the edwardian era for its fashion. So elegant 🤩
A 100 years ago to me is before 1900 😂
My grandmother was a seamstress who learned to sew in the 1920s. One of my earliest memories of her is saying "if you are making clothes for yourself, make sure to provide an inch or two of seam allowance an extra in the hem - that way you have spare fabric for repairs or alterations later on"
Crowing Hen that is genius! I usually make my kids hems a bit longer so I can lengthen things easily as they are growing like weeds. But I didn’t think of adding extra for myself for repairs. I usually just try to keep a few swatches of fabric of anything I make so I can patch or repair things later, but how much better to have it on the garment where you can’t lose it. It’s like those marvelous garments that have extra buttons sewn on the inside so you can replace them if needed.
Thanks for that lesson! Very useful :)
That is pure genius. This is yet another reason to listen to one’s elders!! -
Crowing Hen: I will start using your grandmother’s technique, because that way I won’t be attempting to repair an old garment with new fabric
That is genius!!
It's very "I'm going to my husband's funeral after I poisoned him in a sacrificial ritual with my Coven besties" and I'm here for it
Same.
*snaps 3 times* oh kay !!!
@Maria Clara Palmeira Brondi Rezende but correct
😆 👌👌
Witch's clothes? A Grandmother of mine in 1692 was hung and her sister, for being a witch, I wonder if she wore her best outfit for the hanging! You may have heard of her Rebecca Nurse, and Mary Towne, the family was well off, with land.😢
My son overheard the “witchy, gothy, vampy, queen” description and said, “is she talking about you?” 😂😂😂. What an amazing garment! Thanks for sharing!!! ❤️
I love it! I believe our sons would get along famously!
My future kids✌️😗
I heard that in heirloom sewing for children you want to use weaker thread/stitching so that if/when they tear it the seam will give rather than the seam holding and the fabric ripping. I kind of think that way about hems that will catch if you use larger stitching at least the material doesn’t tear just a thought what an extraordinary garment!
Very fair points. I think personally I'd renenforce the hem either all the way around or around the back with leather to help protect it from dragging or heel catching.
I once hemmed a pair of jeans for a child and did it very well. It was hard to take it out.
Spiritualism was HUGE right at this time after WW1 and there were mediums and psychics EVERYWHERE. All the fashionable (and other people who lost loved ones in the Great War) held seances for fun with their friends and stuff. So I wonder if this dress was made for a medium or some other type of spiritualist. Also could be a mourning dress. Mourning for a long period of time was starting to fall out of fashion so it's possible this was commissioned for that or a funeral of some type. Part of the reason I'm so interested in historical fashion pieces is the stories behind each garment. I'm dying to know who wore this dress and why.
Mourning was my guess.
Strikes me as a statement piece. What the statement made for I couldn't say but seems very independent or individualistic. Agree it would be great to hear the history of/about who commissioned this and its use.
This dress is from a few years before WWI so probably not 😅
Absolutely wish we knew if this was worn everyday? Or for a formal event?
I love 1910s fashion, such a shame everyone forgets about this era
As someone who's obsessed with the Titanic, WWI, and the Great Influenza; it's both a shame and pretty damned freaky when people forget this era.
@@tammyt3434 yes! And it's such a great transition from 19th cebtury fashion to 20th century fashion. I mean, yeah, the 1900s are 20th century but the fashions are much closer to Victorian than what we see throughout the rest of the 20th century. The 1910s had such creative pieces.
Here here! I’m such a huge fan of the 1910s era as well! 🖤🖤🖤
I’m definitely attempting a capsule wardrobe significantly influenced by the Edwardian era. I have always loved that style of clothing. But then, I really like the 30’s and 40’s fashion-wise as well. So, it will be a weird mashup of those fashion eras. But it’s my wardrobe, so I get to make and wear what I like.
Those “piped” seams almost look like they were reversed French seams. But I’m not looking at it in person, just from the video angle.
Edited to add, and is no one talking about how gorgeous that fabric is? I have never seen a more beautiful black fabric!
black on black damask is one of my favorites! I love matte and shiny black combos
Abby, would there be anyway you could do a "pattern" for this dress? This is an amazing outfit and the witchy-victorian in me needs it
Check my comment. It has a possible solution to getting a skirt like this.
Omg when I saw the title of the video and the thumbnail my brain just added witch into the title for zero reason xD
Check out Repeated Originals and Patterns of Time on Etsy. I have seen some similar patterns in their collections!
I totally was hoping they’d have a announcement for an upcoming pattern. I adore the standing collar. So much Dracula vibes going on there.
Yes pls
I swear, if we do not get a multi-season word for word accurate adaption of Discworld and Granny Weatherwax isn't wearing this, I am going to write a STRONGLY worded howler to the powers that be
I love this comment for so many reasons! I stan Granny Weatherwax so, so much. And aside from few details (I couldn't catch a unicorn) I aspire to be just like her.
@@girlunrepentant1254 I have many opinions about the costuming, and hope to release a Twoflower complaint video soon
Edit: costuming
Hmm. I feel like she would have this in her closet and would never wear it. She would love so much about this garment, but would be very severe with herself that she would be led astray by fripperies and "show". Keep it because she loves it, but NEVER EVER wear it
@@lclarndt another literary character i picture in this is the Dowager Duchess from the Lord Peter Wimsey stories by Dorothy L. Sayers, in unadorned but exquisite tweed
lclarndt I feel like she would wear it. But not often. Only in the same context as she wears the overly billowy cloak.
Oh my goodness... this is the level of stylish witchery that I aspire too. What a dazzling spooktacular look. That collar and the texture is swoon worthy.
This dress just calls to me!! I swear I’ve dreamt about it so many times (well, a very similar dress, anyway). I cannot wait for the delicious details. Thank you for the link to Nicole’s channel! I subscribed instantly.
On a side note, I noticed your sign that says, “Tarot Readings.” I’ve read Tarot for YEARS! I’m also delighted you were sponsored by Skillshare. My nerdy heart is so excited for a free trial!! Love, light, and blessings, dear lady, and see you next week.
WAHHHH!!! I've just started really trying to learn tarot! I've done oracle for years, but my mom and i both have made it a point to learn more about tarot for 2020! 😍😍😍
I love these ‘forensic’ look into garment construction and slightly dodgy repairs, makes feel better about some of my quick fixes
Abby focuses on the bottom + Nicole focusing on the top = One super dress historian!! (The joke in my head was hilarious and involved both of in historical super hero costumes!)
*insert Steven Universe style fusion dance and transformation here*
Huge Prof. McGonagle vibes from this outfit
Putting the interfacing at the seams and pretend seams is so smart! One of my first projects was with a brocade like this and the weave is so shifty, everything just sagged. I wish I'd known then what I know now. It's really validating to see the inside of this historic piece and see that they had problems with the fabric's stability then too.
I thought it was really interesting what you guys were saying about there being a lot of structure going into looking organic because it really reminded me of art nouveau - that really had a similar sort of odd mix of movement and stasis, flow and structure.
I know art nouveau was a smidge earlier but I wonder if/how much that fed into other forms of art/craft like clothing.
Remnants of the nouveau movement blended with the Arts and Crafts movement in terms of design and they bridged the period of design up until Art Deco arose around 1920. So yes, I agree that this dress fits with the Art Nouveau design forms. Such movements had flow on effects into every aspect of life that could be designed.
I speak as an Artist and Designer who focuses on Architectural and Interior Design history (& further back into Archaeological artefacts that explore design).
The fashionable and affluent embraced the counter movement from the 1890's to the 1910's which was against the mass production of items which made them more affordable for common people. They used their wealth to obtain items that showed signs of Craftsmanship. Items that were handmade, bespoke, and by their asymmetry, impossible to mass produce.
Also very reminiscent of Jugendstil!
@@Lee-rs3kk
Art Nouveau is basically synonymous with Jugendstil.
Nicole: giant seam allowances would not allow you to adjust the embroidery.
Abby: it is not complicated embroidery, it is just satin stitches....
Me (the newbie): I am wondering if the owner added the embroidery, is there any way to tell?
Also me (the newbie): loving the high-waisted Edwardian skirts.
Me again: yes, please would like a link to Nicole's channel.
Def not owner - it was done by the professionals based off of how it was done, when in the process etc. ☺️
Nicole’s channel: th-cam.com/channels/ca-WkVPVe9nzs2iFct4wxg.html ❤️❤️
@@AbbyCox Thank !
The embroidery was added before the (now gone) lining was fitted. It's possible it was done to some pieces before they were sewn together, but some were obviously done after (even as an afterthought - like when she went in for a fitting and said "I'd like some chevrons put "here"").
I had only ever seen the etching/catalogue pics of that style collar/bodice. OH MY STARS...it is even more epic than I imagined it could possibly be🤩🤩🤩. This garment pretty much solidifies the mid to late teens as MY era. But in general I am drawn to any of the eras that are transition points.
I really hope you end up drafting a pattern for this. I'd be curious to see if starting with the same base layer, how the two of you would differ in how to approach the draping of the skirt.
Wibbly wobbly timey wimey!! My two hearts love that description. ❤️❤️
L Kegler Mine, too!!
Ahhh, Whovians
For the waistband... It looks like Petersham ribbon. I've made several skirts with this waistband treatment. They are very comfortable and a lot less bulky. Plus, the ribbon is easy to mold into a curve with an iron. Here's the Wikipedia link... en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petersham_ribbon
thank you for the article link !
Interesting
I was also thinking that. Grosgrain doesn't really curve.
This dress reminds me of the 'windblown' hairstyle. It's harder to look like you're not trying.
I’m going to conjecture that this is a typical couture/bespoke dress from the 1910’s, in so far as the whole ensemble includes classic couture tailoring techniques AND the embellishments of drapery and embroidery could be construed as features that a couture designer would incorporate into the styling of the garment to ensure that the ensemble had the distinctive and unique features that would mark it out to contemporary friends/family of this garment’s owner that she was a woman of elegant and fashionable taste. It may or may not be a product of a well-known Fashion house of the 1910’s (without a label it’s impossible to know, unless the dress were magically to appear in an extant catalogue.), but it looks to me like something that any competent, high-end couture dressmaking house could/would make for a discerning client.
🎶Gothic queen, young and sweet, from the nineteen teens!🎶
I would have liked to see more of an entire shot of the outfit as well as just close ups. I watched the entire vid to see it and well it didn't happen.
that first zoomed-in pan of the details, and my brain went : OH. HOT. DANG.
Such a gorgeous piece!! However I found it difficult to understand without a full shot of the whole outfit at once (damn my extremely visual brain), can I find one anywhere or am I just missing it in the video??
I thought I put in pans of the whole outfit, but maybe my scattered brain didn’t. 🙈It’s also tricky to photograph because of it being black.
@@AbbyCox the pans are awesome for showing the details, and even the whole top, but I can't envisage how it works with the skirt 😅 basically a still of the full mannequin head to toe would help me put it all together in my head! No idea if anyone else gets this too, and honestly I didn't expect any reply haha! So thanks x
Edit, and I now see that you've linked to full images - thanks so much!!
Yeah, I wanted to see a full length shot of the dress so I can see the whole dress in one view.
@@MsJosiejo32 I agree. A nice long still shot of the whole garment is so helpful. The pans are helpful, too, but my brain also needs to see the whole thing, front and back.
So are you going to make a pattern for this to sell
😉
You know when you're relatively early to a video and haven't watched it all the way yet so you dont know what to comment. But at the same time you also wanna comment while you're somewhat early? So I'll just say this. HI ABBYYYYYYYY
HIIII KENDRICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻
The more we learn the less we realize what we actually know. It's so fascinating watching your videos on your collection and learning what they did in the past. Thanks I also subscribed to Nicole's channel looking forward to watching her videos.
Absolutely love the fabric that of which this dress is made .
I absolutely adore when Nicole is with you. You both have so much knowledge and passion! It's inspiring for a brazilian fashion designer like me. I learn a lot about construction, textile, details and patterns that I missed during collage and studied by myself.
Best old clothing channel! THANK YOU!
The hematite finished buttons are just life. I love them on the cuff and also repeated in 3 on the bodice. Between the finishing of the seams and the coordinating embroidery. Wow!
Wait they used hematite for buttons ?! 💓
Amanda H it looks like more of a shiny gunmetal finish, made me think of hematite. Could be a ceramic button with a special finish too. It’s just a guess but no way of knowing without destroying a button and that’s no worth it.
Ooooooooooooooo I love 1910's fashion but for some reason I have such a hard time finding good sources to stare at it
I know! It’s so under shared which is a shame because it is some of the most incredible fashion - ever
Great video, I really enjoyed. Don't beat yourself up nobody's perfect.
The style of the skirt looked familiar to me. I have a pattern I got on easy, i think. Anyway it's also on archive.org for free.
The national garment cutter book of diagrams
Its page 11 and has a diagram for measurements. 🙂Enjoy.
The link doesn't go to the source. Do you remember the title?
The National Garment Cutter Book of Diagrams. I wonder why it didn't link that. 🤔 It's got some nice looking garments in it. Page 11 is the skirt that looks close to this one of Abby's.
@@silvergypsylady Thank you
@@davyd28 archive.org/details/nationalgarment00gold try this.
This one is from 1913 and may give us more clues. archive.org/details/americangarmentc00enge
That collar is everything.
Isn't it amazing? 110 yrs later, and I totally feel the girl that wore this. I'd love to talk to her and maybe do a swap of dresses.
I definitely agree that more then one person was involved in making this piece, but I think it's hard to say how many people would have been involved. From my great grandparents generation, most of everyone seemed to have more then a handful of fine-tuned skills and then from the "boomers" on people seemed to get more specialized/ narrower in scope.
My great-grandmother was employed by the Danish royal family for at least a decade, somewhere in the textile zone of servitude (but I don't know her exact role / title). When she came to America in the early 1920s, she made most of her own clothes and her husband's clothes including his suits. She seemed to have tailoring knowledge for men's suits, could make her own lace and then for woman's and girls clothes (girls clothes for my grandmother and later my mother) she seemed to stick with just the casual fashions of the time. With pieces she made for herself in the 1920s and 1930s, it looks like she sometimes made a cocoon coat or a simple skirt/jacket combo but she mostly stuck with the "one hour dress" look and the more sack-ish loose fashions of the day which were easy in their construction (she was a modern day size 18+ lady). Lace seemed to be something she made right up towards the end of her lifetime, but in terms of physical evidence and photographs it seems like she only applied lace to old lady crafty projects and table cloths.
Abby:" Ha Ha Ha Ha; I did it, I knew my words." Me: "Too adorable (and kinda relatable).
I feel like the fabric inspired the outfit for some reason, rather than the pattern inspiring the choice of fabric. Does that even make sense?
Totally!
It's so pretty, very witchy. I imagine the owner wearing it with lace blouse underneath it, with equally witchy hat, hair to the floor, cat being her familiar and living in a stylish gothic apartment. It just have this much character. Damn, it's delicious. I would like this set in my wardrobe, thank you :D
Sometimes i watch these videos and wonder which unfortunate future fashion nerd will find my home-sewn garments in a landfill and will be tearing their hair out trying to decipher my stitching and binding and what not
Omg. Nicole keeps talking about making it and i am in love. Please make this. I would love to see a video on making this. And i would love to buy the pdf about this dress eventually.
I don't know how you do it, how you don't faint from excitement handling these clothes. :D I seriously had to pause video in the middle, cause it was too much gorgeousness for me. LOL
That tunic is freaking GLORIOUS!
It's literal perfection. Like, we have been blessed to witness such sartorial genius.
Hi Ms Abby, could you share with us how you clean vintage clothes? I wonder how you get rid of the stains & musty smell. I heard that people at theaters spray costumes with alcohol but I'm not sure if it is a good idea for delicate fabrics such as silk & wool. Is there any no-wash trick?
Many thanks & stay safe.
I see there are others who also loathe hemming as much as I do 😂
I’m trying to imagine my great-grandma Mary wearing this. She’d have in her mid 30s at the beginning of the war.
I think this would look so good on Bernadette!!
With her cute little witchy hat!
It does kind of scream her name, doesn’t it.
@@ymasen The new one she just made? yep, most definitely.
@@TheMetatronGirl I think Abby should dub it "The Bernadette" just because it really does scream her name
Yep, that one. With the dainty black velvet ribbon.
Ok, so maybe you only know the wibbly-wobbly timey-wimey phrase through nerd osmosis, which would be fair, but in case you don’t...Nicole is literally my headcanon for if River Song regenerated, complete with clothing-based archeology skills.
This should be a series 😁
I now realize this is a series... A series I have been watching from the beginning... All I mean is more with the 2 of you!!!
I have a theory about the messy hem - I think it was the person's modification, which they made by themselves at home? You don't necessarily want to pay a seamstress every time and people had basic knowledge of these seams. Like, nowadays at thrift shops I often find a clothing piece with some sewing done to it, with variations of skill, why would the "old times" be any different? Just a thought
This is just fantastic. I love it all. And that hem repair in white cotton? I feel a kindred spirit, it looks like my attempts. A sewist I am not!
Abbey please don't beat yourself up, I loved this video and a lot of the time like seeing the insides more than the outside often! 😉😘
What about those meaningless buttons on the sides of the bust (which match the buttons on the sleeves)? What about that Cruella DeVille collar? And didn't the wearer have to start with drawers, chemise, corset,maybe a blouse or an ascot or a dickie. Whereas when I get dressed, I put on a bra and panties, leggings, and a t-shirt, and shoes, and I'm dressed.
Loved the video! The tunic is amazing and looks sinister at the same time. There's something about the Edwardian era that stands out from all the rest that makes it's own statements. I think it would be fun remaking this outfit. I say go for it!
Abby! Don't judge the ancient witch's sewing! Have you never seen a horror film!?
New to your channel but I do have questions that you may have already addressed. With regard to the garment could its construction have been carried out in a method similar to quilting groups in which a group of women with different skill sets work on a dress set as shown in the video? Are there sewing methods that could be considered as specific to a certain region of the country say like a New England aesthetic vs. Southern aesthetic towards the construction of the garments? Finally with the decorative details could these details act as a form of thermal finishing to allow the garment to retain heat while keeping the chill out?
Anyone else reminded of Vanessa Ives from Penny Dreadful by this garment? I know it's a bit too modern, but the embroidery, THAT COLLAR, come on.
Serious Penny Dreadful vibes with this piece. Love love love. A little older time wise, but the gothic witchy vibe is there. Love.
A-“Well that was an adventure...”
N-“Wee!”
😂🤣Lmao love you two together, and that piece is amazing! This needs to be remade cuz I need to see this on an actual person🖤
The fabric is sooooo pretty. The hem makes me feel better about the hash I usually make of mine...
The older I get, the more I am slowly turning into either a witch or a well dressed woman in gentleman's clothing. No in-between xD Anyway, now I have new goals. And a new project to sew
I feel like Bernadette would really appreciate this garment
This dress is delicious! I want to make it...
I love it! I' d be really interested in knowing howthey make fabric like that. Love the whole thing.
I don't sew, so all of the terminology is unknown to me. However, this is a really beautiful outfit and I would wear it in a heartbeat.
I’ve always loved the 1910’s and look to it for my goth fashion inspirations. Check out mid to late 1910’s beachwear, too. Holy moly!
All the wonky bits aside (and I love your commentary, never change!) This looks so cute with the fabric patterns and embroidery
It's just such a beautiful garment, perfect for the month of October. Though I love that people are still people no matter the time period. Of course wearing a skirt that length, the wearer would get the hem caught by their shoe and would do a half job mending it. Because that's what you do, especially with a part that people aren't gonna see. And that can easily get broken again cause of where it's located.
Why don't you guys just start your own channel together lolololololol They're amazing!
I adore how you said “Any-Hoo!!” My friends always make fun of me for saying that🤣 this makes my little nerdy heart so happy 👏🏻 ...& Of course pretty cool video looking into your Antique Garment. 😜
It is a gorgeous dress, and it’s a real thought that it would have taken so many people to make this (probably lol). Nicole is an awesome friend. Thank you for sharing!
Love that embroidery and the collars!
I have only seen a few vintage handmade garments and I’m always surprised at how unfinished, or poorly finished, they are on the inside. For some reason, I expected all this rough work to be covered with beautiful silk or cambric linings.
Oh, it did have a lining originally.
This is SOOOOOO fascinating!!! I am sooo happy I found your channel. I haven't collected any TRUE vintage in a while. I did have a GORGEOUS two piece negligee set from the 1920s. I had a lace and linen top from around 1890s, and I had a dress from about the 1930s.. It was a gown. And then more modern vintage, I had a SUPER cute coral colored two piece gown and bolero from the 70s. And it is past tense... sadly!!! I no longer have these pieces.
I appreciate you soooo much!!!
Love these videos, and also very excited that Nicole is launching a channel! it's a good day...
Very good photographs. So a well off lady, went into a dressmaker or they came to her, measurements were taken she gave an idea of the style and that she wanted the embroidery.so that might be started. Then she met them again, the skirt was draped the embroidery agreed on? , Then the top ? The outfit was finished so where was she going to go in it, a Stylish young widow ? or would it be considered to elaborate for that? You will guess I am not a sewer but am interested in history and social mores
Taking over the Board of Directors meeting to run your husbands empire the way he wanted it run... not exactly cracking skulls but pointing imperiously at the door and issuing invitation to “accept the yoke of service to the Noble Aims of My Dearly Departed Husband, or Leave!”
It's gorgeous. But looks like Lucile and Paquin's love child. There's a sorta similar dress in the V&A.
its sooooo Endora from bewitched
Is it just me or does this fit nicely into the theme of next year's costume college? 🤔
This dress is such an asthetic of its own and I love it 🥰
I can't wait to see Nicole's future videos!
Wow this one is exquisite..For it’s age it’s in extremely great condition.The material is beautiful and the embroidery is gorgeous..One big Question ..Are you going to make a copy of it ? 🥰
I am DYING for that collar right now. Glorious.
This feels very Miss Hardbroom from Worst Witch. I love it!!!
Is this from the remake or the 1980's series. I haven't watched the remake except for the first episode and don't remember much.
hot damn, I can't wait to see you make/recreate this ensemble!
You said “wibbley-wobbley, timey-wimey”! I have the Dr. saying it for me text messages!!!
Ohh wow. Just gorgeous. Please make this and do all the head ache work for me. I must make something like this
I am 10 minutes in and still have no idea what this looks like so I have no idea what you’re talking about
There’s literally a pan of it in the opening shot... I’m not saying I could have added more full body shots (I thought I did, but this week was *busy* for me and I was working under a tight deadline.) but I always establish an antique dress video with an opening shot of the garment....
@@AbbyCox The opening shot pan is alas woefully insufficient. What this dress looked like "in action" remains a complete mystery.
I need this outfit in my life 😍
HARD SAME.
@@AbbyCox yeah, could we please have this wounderous, dark academia, Gothy, gown as a group outfit? (You know, like a certain cape cult that's out there.)
@@AbbyCox you should recreate it!
this dress is so gorgeous!
Not really sure if comments are still a thing on videos as old as this one, but just had to say that I totally channel the original constructor of that black suit when I'm sewing. It's literally no-hold-barred improvisation by the time my ADHD delivers me to the last hour before deadline with half an outfit and a general idea of how much of the originally envisaged splendor I can manage to fake before I hide the last piece of duct tape under a frill of lace. Never boring, but a little nerve-wracking for everyday use!
I've been watching Abby cox for several years and just realized I wasn't subscribed. Fixed that right away☺️😅 Any how amazing video as always. Thank you so much for giving me what's going to be my new aesthetic.
OMGosh!!!! @ 6.37 .... you DIDN'T just prove to the world that you are a Whovian did you Abby?? LOL I love you more now C:
Ok you museum archival folks, a major textile problem. I have a 1930s-40s, red, Japanese kimono I had hanging because I love looking at it but unknown to me was a freshly placed glue trap to catch mice. Hold on.......my beautiful kimono somehow “fell” (my husband admits to nothing and hates my kimono collection) and some of the hem plopped into the thick glue trap and now has thick, sticky glue on it. I delicately removed the trap from the kimono but it still has thick glue that needs to be removed. I live in the D.C. area and was thinking to call someone at the Smithsonian but I don’t know whom to ask or where to start. Any suggestions?
Loved this! Would be amazing to see the process of re-creating
Wow, you two are RIGHT out of "The House of Elliott"!! 😊😊😊
The BELLS!?!??! Why is no one talking about the bells attached to the garmet? If you know, plz reply! I hope I do not get buried bc I REALLY want to know what is up with the bells!!!! Id imagine that this is a mourning garment and maybe the bells are there to scare off evil spirits? The bells are attached (I think) at the wrist/sleeves and on the bodice. I'd imagine that the wearer would be making a bit of noise when moving their arms and or walking???
I live for their feedback on the construction but there could've been more of an explanation on the purpose of the garment and its different features.
They Actually Wore This?! 😍 Proof That the 1910s Were The Best Decade for White Women's Fashion in White History*
abby, some of us are minorities