This video glossed over the most difficult part: how to ensure a fall. First you need to reference a level line. This is challenging, you need either a laser level or a string line with a spirit level, which is tricky to get right over long distances. Then for every metre of run drop one end by at least 0.5mm (more pragmatically, I go for a mm).
Yes the fall. Ive tried a chalk line but didnt work to well for me so using old fashioned string line then putting a 1200mm level carefully against it to determine the level. I think its classic case of getting it down pat with trial and error at the start then im away with my own method. So far so good.
Another question.. so if i had 3 or 4 10 metre runs with corners in between and a dropper at one end, wouldnt the dropper be quite low as the 5mm of fall every 10mm requires? I always thought putting a fall in would make the spouting look un level and crooked.
@@goatofpower yea im of two minds over the fall issue. Ive spoken to many that say as longs as the runs are about 10 metres or less before a dropper, then the water will find its own level and equalise over the run span. Just have to be sure at the very least the water is not running the wrong way if trying to keep the spouting level. At the moment when i bracket and install spouting in a section, il run some water down and see what it does. I guess thats the ultimate test.
@@goatofpower I prefer to run a chalk line as a reference point, it's what works for me, after using a string line and level, and other methods and getting the fall wrong. If I can, I try and exceed the required fall. From ground level, you would have to have a pretty sharp eye to detect a 5mm drop.
LOL, I love the part where she says "And because its PVC it wont rust!" Very true, BUT, the screws might. 304 Stainless steel screws will last a lot longer and are not much more in price. 314 or 316 Marine grade SS screws if you want to be really pedantic. You dont soon get those rusty brown streaks on your piping or house. Experts! 😵💫
I have a question..im about to do a few repairs on Marley Classic guttering. It is said not to cement expansion joiners.. how then does it not leak from this place? Thnx.
I think it does leak slightly. They used to have rubber seals on them, but that was discontinued because they caused more problems than they solved. I think your expansion joiners should generally be at high points, so the water is mostly running alway from them.
@@HellBoundsOnMyTrail I recently got an expansion joiner and there is a crucial detail on its install leaflet, that I haven’t seen on any of Marleys other docs. That is, that if you have a run of spouting without any expansion outlet then you need an expansion joiner if the run is more than 4m! Up til I saw that I thought they only required it for 12m runs, but turns out this is only when there are also expansion outlets
Use a water level. (hose with water in it) reference level and then determine fall rate to outlet.
This video glossed over the most difficult part: how to ensure a fall. First you need to reference a level line. This is challenging, you need either a laser level or a string line with a spirit level, which is tricky to get right over long distances.
Then for every metre of run drop one end by at least 0.5mm (more pragmatically, I go for a mm).
Yes the fall. Ive tried a chalk line but didnt work to well for me so using old fashioned string line then putting a 1200mm level carefully against it to determine the level. I think its classic case of getting it down pat with trial and error at the start then im away with my own method. So far so good.
Another question.. so if i had 3 or 4 10 metre runs with corners in between and a dropper at one end, wouldnt the dropper be quite low as the 5mm of fall every 10mm requires? I always thought putting a fall in would make the spouting look un level and crooked.
Well you could put them level and then they will look good but not work ::
@@goatofpower yea im of two minds over the fall issue. Ive spoken to many that say as longs as the runs are about 10 metres or less before a dropper, then the water will find its own level and equalise over the run span. Just have to be sure at the very least the water is not running the wrong way if trying to keep the spouting level. At the moment when i bracket and install spouting in a section, il run some water down and see what it does. I guess thats the ultimate test.
@@goatofpower I prefer to run a chalk line as a reference point, it's what works for me, after using a string line and level, and other methods and getting the fall wrong. If I can, I try and exceed the required fall. From ground level, you would have to have a pretty sharp eye to detect a 5mm drop.
Hey guys just a note you should use Stainless Steel screws on all of the clips due to the clips being outside.
LOL, I love the part where she says "And because its PVC it wont rust!" Very true, BUT, the screws might. 304 Stainless steel screws will last a lot longer and are not much more in price. 314 or 316 Marine grade SS screws if you want to be really pedantic. You dont soon get those rusty brown streaks on your piping or house. Experts! 😵💫
I have a question..im about to do a few repairs on Marley Classic guttering. It is said not to cement expansion joiners.. how then does it not leak from this place? Thnx.
I'm woundering the same thing did you figure it out?
I think it does leak slightly. They used to have rubber seals on them, but that was discontinued because they caused more problems than they solved. I think your expansion joiners should generally be at high points, so the water is mostly running alway from them.
@@snowreaper4953 in the end i found i didnt have to use expansion joiners because my runs went long enough to require them.
@@HellBoundsOnMyTrail I recently got an expansion joiner and there is a crucial detail on its install leaflet, that I haven’t seen on any of Marleys other docs. That is, that if you have a run of spouting without any expansion outlet then you need an expansion joiner if the run is more than 4m!
Up til I saw that I thought they only required it for 12m runs, but turns out this is only when there are also expansion outlets
Having just got one of these, it seems to still have a rubber seal. At least the install leaflet says it does and I can’t visually see a gap.
you guys copied mitre 10 step by step and got the same things wrong... big yikes!