I had the same problem on a MK5 2005 year. Heat sink on the IC201 didn’t solve the problem. I then swapped out the R307 with a 10k 0.25 resistor from Amazon. Works great now. Cost me £1.50 for 100 resistors.
After hours of searching the internet I finally found your video...THANK YOU!! I will try it. I almost thought I‘m the only one having this problem! During warm summer days this issue comes up after a few minutes...at winter time my 1210 is running much longer stable. Greetings from Germany ✌️
I think you may have just solved the problem with my 1210 MK II....I've recalibrated pitch control....I've replaced the pitch control.....Diode 301 is next on the hit list! Thanks man!
firstly does this jump around on quartz lock IE with green light on NO this normally takes ic301 AN6682 out the picture. Many things cause this issue number 1 pitch fader must not be worn down to much or dirty 22ka is a standard 1200 use a multi meter to check resistance. it must also be set correctly the adjuster on the pitch fader gives you the zero point 2.7k as it works on a variation of voltage .number 2 pitch adjuster on pcb, i have found that its being adjusted past its stop point and not giving consistent resistance. check the regulator q201 under side of the pcb for bad connection this has a tendency to get hot expands and contracts and breaks the soldiered contacts on the pcb. still no joy try this 25 years working with Technics turntables only once have i changed the 301 diode 80 % of the time its ic related and in this order (1) control AN6680 IC 201 run the turntable for a while turn the unit off remove the platter and with the back of your finger move up and down the ic feel for hot spots if the temp is not consistent for the length on the ic change the ic. if not then feel temp ic 101 AN6675 this get hot anyway but if you cant touch it for a second its getting too hot replace it if not then last ic301 AN6682 pitch control . hope this helps
It needs to be a 5.1v diode. and yes the direction does matter. It will only work properly. I would read up on diode very briefly so you understand the symbol on the circuit board so you know which way to put it in properly.
Also does anyone know about the 1200 MK2 main board? On the underside i have 3 ceramic caps soldered to the board. one or two have been replaced but i don't know if they are correct. I knocked one of the legs of one and it came away, i could not see where it was supposed to go and can't find photos. Anyone?
Can anyone explain to me why the track light has to switch through a resistor (on the microswitch) to turn it off? Why can't it just go open circuit to be in the off state and have the microswitch close the connection for the on position? Looking deeper at the 1200 i am working on someone removed the lamp and soldered the wire together so it blew Q3. The speed is also erratic so i am going to replace Q3 and perhaps D3 and D301 for strarters and will see. Does anyone know the correct value for diode D3? Thanks
have you tested the turntable for a long period of time like continuous playing for a 2 -3 hours on a -8 pitch setting? I also had the same problem with my MK5, but I only put a slight modification but I did not replace a single component... it works fine and the problem was solved...
Yes, that is all it took. The part is cheap enough to try that first, as long as you already have a soldering iron and your comfortable on removing the old part without damaging the circuit board. Sorry for the delayed response.
Hey thanks for uploading this. Ive been looking for this tutorial. I was having this same problem and replaced D301. I did that about 3 months ago and it fixed the problem but just now today my turntable is showing signs of the same problem. Any tips?
on my 1200 mk2, the dots move slightly side-to-side. I was wondering what you did would fix this or replacing r307 as explained in this video: th-cam.com/video/RPRcW74ay7w/w-d-xo.html would.
my Technics mk 2 which I bought used makes a slight chaffing noise when rotating, the pitch is ok and the deck plays good but I want rid of the chaffing noise,,,, any suggestions anyone ?
I read on the KAB site about attaching a heat sink to the IC201 to "fix" the problem. Has anyone here tried that and had it work? If so, could you share details? Thanks!
A hole in the wall electronic shop replaced the diode on mine, and sloppily attached a heat sink to it. As crude as it looked, it worked perfectly and I had no issues for 7 years up until this past weekend.
Good morning, my friend, I would like you to help me solve a problem in my mk2 technics, he is changing the picht and I changed it, I changed a new one and nothing would like it if you could help me in this problem since already many thanks for your attention
Its good to see these videos still out there to help troubleshooting
I had the same problem on a MK5 2005 year. Heat sink on the IC201 didn’t solve the problem. I then swapped out the R307 with a 10k 0.25 resistor from Amazon. Works great now. Cost me £1.50 for 100 resistors.
Yep apparently this solves the problem. Replace R307 for a 10K 0.25V . See video th-cam.com/video/RPRcW74ay7w/w-d-xo.html
After hours of searching the internet I finally found your video...THANK YOU!! I will try it. I almost thought I‘m the only one having this problem! During warm summer days this issue comes up after a few minutes...at winter time my 1210 is running much longer stable. Greetings from Germany ✌️
Hi. An you share what did you end up doing to fix the issue ?
I think you may have just solved the problem with my 1210 MK II....I've recalibrated pitch control....I've replaced the pitch control.....Diode 301 is next on the hit list! Thanks man!
my 1200 mk2 does the same thing, i replaced the R307 to a 10k resistor but same thing.. did u manage to fix urs?
firstly does this jump around on quartz lock IE with green light on NO this normally takes ic301 AN6682 out the picture. Many things cause this issue number 1 pitch fader must not be worn down to much or dirty 22ka is a standard 1200 use a multi meter to check resistance. it must also be set correctly the adjuster on the pitch fader gives you the zero point 2.7k as it works on a variation of voltage .number 2 pitch adjuster on pcb, i have found that its being adjusted past its stop point and not giving consistent resistance. check the regulator q201 under side of the pcb for bad connection this has a tendency to get hot expands and contracts and breaks the soldiered contacts on the pcb. still no joy try this 25 years working with Technics turntables only once have i changed the 301 diode 80 % of the time its ic related and in this order (1) control AN6680 IC 201 run the turntable for a while turn the unit off remove the platter and with the back of your finger move up and down the ic feel for hot spots if the temp is not consistent for the length on the ic change the ic. if not then feel temp ic 101 AN6675 this get hot anyway but if you cant touch it for a second its getting too hot replace it if not then last ic301 AN6682 pitch control . hope this helps
does it matter if the diode is a 3.3v .1w from a 5.1v .1w and does it make a different which way the diode goes in
It needs to be a 5.1v diode. and yes the direction does matter. It will only work properly. I would read up on diode very briefly so you understand the symbol on the circuit board so you know which way to put it in properly.
thanks for your help it was much needed and i will switch out the 3.3 and switch them to the 5.1
thanks again Isdave
Hi, why this kind of thing happened? Was this trouble common to MK5’s?
Currently have this problem with my mk5 too
Also does anyone know about the 1200 MK2 main board? On the underside i have 3 ceramic caps soldered to the board. one or two have been replaced but i don't know if they are correct. I knocked one of the legs of one and it came away, i could not see where it was supposed to go and can't find photos. Anyone?
Can anyone explain to me why the track light has to switch through a resistor (on the microswitch) to turn it off? Why can't it just go open circuit to be in the off state and have the microswitch close the connection for the on position?
Looking deeper at the 1200 i am working on someone removed the lamp and soldered the wire together so it blew Q3.
The speed is also erratic so i am going to replace Q3 and perhaps D3 and D301 for strarters and will see. Does anyone know the correct value for diode D3? Thanks
Has it been holding up for a while after you fixed it or did the problem come back??
Is this a permanent solution I hope??!!
have you tested the turntable for a long period of time like continuous playing for a 2 -3 hours on a -8 pitch setting? I also had the same problem with my MK5, but I only put a slight modification but I did not replace a single component... it works fine and the problem was solved...
Henie Lopez Would you share what was your mod? Thanks!
Could you share what mod you did to yours? I'm having this problem and it would be nice to solve it without replacing components.
nice 1 . handy to know what you did?
Hi
Hi
You solved the problem by changing this electronic component ?
I also have this problem on my MK5....
Thanks for your video
Jérôme
Yes, that is all it took. The part is cheap enough to try that first, as long as you already have a soldering iron and your comfortable on removing the old part without damaging the circuit board. Sorry for the delayed response.
Hey thanks for uploading this. Ive been looking for this tutorial. I was having this same problem and replaced D301. I did that about 3 months ago and it fixed the problem but just now today my turntable is showing signs of the same problem. Any tips?
did you replace with the correct Zener Diode? Other than that i can't think of what else might be the issue without actually looking at the turntable.
It seems that some people have had to replace R307 with a 10k Ohm resistor as well as replace the diode.
on my 1200 mk2, the dots move slightly side-to-side. I was wondering what you did would fix this or replacing r307 as explained in this video: th-cam.com/video/RPRcW74ay7w/w-d-xo.html would.
I'm going to try this thanks
my Technics mk 2 which I bought used makes a slight chaffing noise when rotating, the pitch is ok and the deck plays good but I want rid of the chaffing noise,,,, any suggestions anyone ?
maybe post a video of it and let me know.
Check the magnet under the platter. See if screws are tight
Check the spindle is secure tight 3 screws. Before that make sure is set the right way. You have to remove the mother board. But it’s easy
Cheers for suggestion. Just replaced but still happening :- ( Back to researching...
thanks friend for the attention
I read on the KAB site about attaching a heat sink to the IC201 to "fix" the problem. Has anyone here tried that and had it work? If so, could you share details? Thanks!
A hole in the wall electronic shop replaced the diode on mine, and sloppily attached a heat sink to it. As crude as it looked, it worked perfectly and I had no issues for 7 years up until this past weekend.
Ah, yeah, I actually put a heat sink on mine two weeks ago, and it's been perfect ever since!
Did you put the sink over D301, or IC201?
On the IC201. I'm going to do it to my other TT as well soon and plan to video it so people can see how to do it properly.
What's the problem you started having this weekend after so long with it working? Same thing?
Good morning, my friend, I would like you to help me solve a problem in my mk2 technics, he is changing the picht and I changed it, I changed a new one and nothing would like it if you could help me in this problem since already many thanks for your attention
maybe post a video of the problem.
Hi, don't no replase diode, replase the pich for new, do no't clean pich, change for new enssamble pich original
interesting