CD control chip is put in permanent 'reset' and the motor stops. I'm not sure what happens with the laser, but if you start the radio with the chip reset, it shouldn't have a signal to activate at all. I'm still using the same radio and it seems to still work just fine ☺️ as for quality - I'm no audiophile but I don't hear any difference between this and CD playback except when you connect phone you're using for playback to the charger in your car. My stilo is very noisy in terms of high frequencies that goes through the aux. I think it's an alternator problem, because I can hear sound changing depending on mu current RPMs.
@@pandaengineering its not alternator problem, nor car problem, the problem is in phone charger, which uses dc-dc switching converter...that one is generating noise.
Still work :) After almost 2 years only glitch I discovered recently is a problem with display on my radio, it sometimes goes blank, but removing the radio fuse for a minute fixes that. I'm not sure if it's related to the mod or simply the fact that radio is 15 years old :D
hi, i know it is older video but i am trying to make it but after i disassembled cd player my pcb board is quite different from yours on video and doesnt have any markings on it, so how can i know where to solder aux cable and reset? here are pictures of actual board on my drive, hope you can help, cheers drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VPj2XnEhNIqbSBUke536f4_DQWo-cqq1?usp=sharing
I'm sorry but I won't be able to tell you exacly based on the pictures (I'm not that good with electronics 😅). I can tell you how I figured this one out in similar cases: I took an old earpiece (usually it's just ~32 Ohms, the higher the better to probe around) from wired headphones and soldered one of the leads to what I believed was a ground of the radio (when it was off, I found the direct connection from the minus of the battery to the pcb) From the other lead of the earpice I created a sharp probe by removing more insulation and tinning it with solder, creating a sharp needle so I can precisely touch any connection on the board. With that, I just started probing (for less than a second!) around the connector from the CD pcb, because one of them has to be an analogue signal. If you decide to try this, keep in mind that you create unexpected voltages in the circuitry *that MAY* cause a chip failure. I haven't had an instance of that happening on a low voltage DC circuits but that still may happen. Normally this shouldn't cause an issue, apart from causing a reset of some of the chips that "hang" during this. Probing around the connector with CD playing with volume at 0 (this is just a amplifier volume after all) gave me an idea what could be a left and right channel. Once I got that, I found out which is which just by playing a CD I know or a burned stereo test CD. After that I started to look for the audio ground (because audio ground may not be the device ground and it often isn't, connecting to power supply ground will cause the sound to be distorted). The rule is the same, solder one side to a known left or right channel and then look around with the second connection for a audio ground that isn't as distorted as with the device ground. With this (very unscientific) method, I usually make sure not to put the earpice inside my ears until I'm sure, because you can sometimes get a very high volumes. Probing for a fraction of a second, just to look for any sound will at least make sure that the earpice won't burn through its wiring (at 12V if you connect it by accident between + and - of supply it will conduct up to 0.375 amp, so it will just burn the wires within tens of seconds). If you find an audio output on any of the chips simply by using their datasheets (usually very hard to find, but you can try googling the numbers and see), I would still probe with caution, because you never know if you're looking at the chip wrong or if it's a variation with a different pinout 😉
@@pandaengineering thnx very much, i managed to find it, could you explain why you use relays? can it be connected without it? i dont need cd player to be functional just to have bt input
That's great news! I didn't want to hardwire this in case it would cause any issues, but I think you can skip this, because I'm still driving the same Stilo with his mod 😁 it's really hard for me to guarantee if it doesn't cause any problems long-term as it's not always on (I'd say it was on 60% of the time). I haven't had any issues with the radio apart from sometimes failing display and the buttons (but I think this is caused by problems with front panels ribbon cable). If you plan to hardwire this permanently, I'd just recommend that you figure out which fuse is for the radio unit, so you can reset or disconnect it in case you suspect something is going wrong. Keep in mind that radio always have the power connected from the battery, even with the ignition off.
Hi
I have a question, while aux is on, is the cd spinning all the time? Is the sound quality good?
CD control chip is put in permanent 'reset' and the motor stops. I'm not sure what happens with the laser, but if you start the radio with the chip reset, it shouldn't have a signal to activate at all. I'm still using the same radio and it seems to still work just fine ☺️ as for quality - I'm no audiophile but I don't hear any difference between this and CD playback except when you connect phone you're using for playback to the charger in your car. My stilo is very noisy in terms of high frequencies that goes through the aux. I think it's an alternator problem, because I can hear sound changing depending on mu current RPMs.
@@pandaengineering its not alternator problem, nor car problem, the problem is in phone charger, which uses dc-dc switching converter...that one is generating noise.
You're probably right, in my car is that the noise changes when RPMs changes, but that's probably due to slight voltage changes on the 12V supply.
Dzięki, działa idealnie!
Pro tip: watch series at Flixzone. Been using it for watching all kinds of movies recently.
@Casey Myles yup, have been using Flixzone for months myself :D
@Casey Myles definitely, have been using flixzone for months myself =)
@Casey Myles yea, I've been using flixzone for months myself :)
@Casey Myles definitely, I've been watching on flixzone for since december myself :)
Works it still? I want to try it.
Still work :) After almost 2 years only glitch I discovered recently is a problem with display on my radio, it sometimes goes blank, but removing the radio fuse for a minute fixes that. I'm not sure if it's related to the mod or simply the fact that radio is 15 years old :D
That display glitch seems to be related to summer (???) it's completely gone now. I guess the stereo has its years.
Small update: yep, it was summer, all fall and winter without issues :)
Good work
The warning is very cautious
hi, i know it is older video but i am trying to make it but after i disassembled cd player my pcb board is quite different from yours on video and doesnt have any markings on it, so how can i know where to solder aux cable and reset? here are pictures of actual board on my drive, hope you can help, cheers drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VPj2XnEhNIqbSBUke536f4_DQWo-cqq1?usp=sharing
I'm sorry but I won't be able to tell you exacly based on the pictures (I'm not that good with electronics 😅). I can tell you how I figured this one out in similar cases:
I took an old earpiece (usually it's just ~32 Ohms, the higher the better to probe around) from wired headphones and soldered one of the leads to what I believed was a ground of the radio (when it was off, I found the direct connection from the minus of the battery to the pcb)
From the other lead of the earpice I created a sharp probe by removing more insulation and tinning it with solder, creating a sharp needle so I can precisely touch any connection on the board.
With that, I just started probing (for less than a second!) around the connector from the CD pcb, because one of them has to be an analogue signal. If you decide to try this, keep in mind that you create unexpected voltages in the circuitry *that MAY* cause a chip failure. I haven't had an instance of that happening on a low voltage DC circuits but that still may happen.
Normally this shouldn't cause an issue, apart from causing a reset of some of the chips that "hang" during this.
Probing around the connector with CD playing with volume at 0 (this is just a amplifier volume after all) gave me an idea what could be a left and right channel. Once I got that, I found out which is which just by playing a CD I know or a burned stereo test CD.
After that I started to look for the audio ground (because audio ground may not be the device ground and it often isn't, connecting to power supply ground will cause the sound to be distorted). The rule is the same, solder one side to a known left or right channel and then look around with the second connection for a audio ground that isn't as distorted as with the device ground.
With this (very unscientific) method, I usually make sure not to put the earpice inside my ears until I'm sure, because you can sometimes get a very high volumes. Probing for a fraction of a second, just to look for any sound will at least make sure that the earpice won't burn through its wiring (at 12V if you connect it by accident between + and - of supply it will conduct up to 0.375 amp, so it will just burn the wires within tens of seconds).
If you find an audio output on any of the chips simply by using their datasheets (usually very hard to find, but you can try googling the numbers and see), I would still probe with caution, because you never know if you're looking at the chip wrong or if it's a variation with a different pinout 😉
@@pandaengineering thnx very much, i managed to find it, could you explain why you use relays? can it be connected without it? i dont need cd player to be functional just to have bt input
That's great news! I didn't want to hardwire this in case it would cause any issues, but I think you can skip this, because I'm still driving the same Stilo with his mod 😁 it's really hard for me to guarantee if it doesn't cause any problems long-term as it's not always on (I'd say it was on 60% of the time). I haven't had any issues with the radio apart from sometimes failing display and the buttons (but I think this is caused by problems with front panels ribbon cable).
If you plan to hardwire this permanently, I'd just recommend that you figure out which fuse is for the radio unit, so you can reset or disconnect it in case you suspect something is going wrong.
Keep in mind that radio always have the power connected from the battery, even with the ignition off.