You are a braver man than me, cleaning the small parts without a strainer in your sink...speaking from experience 😃😄 Great video on these lanterns, thanks!
Thanks. In years and years of doing this I've only once had a problem dropping something. I always figured if I did drop something, the garbage disposal will keep it from going down the drain and it's easy enough to fish things out of it. The one time I did put the strainer on this side of the sink in response to video comments, I dropped something, it bounced into the other side of the sink, and went down the drain which would otherwise have had the strainer on it. I had to take the trap apart to get it back.
I very much appreciate the content that you put out. I’m in my early 30’s and have been a collector of lanterns since my teens. I often find it pretty hard to find quality videos with detailed information on any vintage lanterns/stoves. I think a lot of the collectors out there are much older and either don’t know or don’t care about uploading useful information about their hobby. I very much appreciate you bridging the gap for us. I hope you continue with these super informative videos! Thanks
I just got a BNIB, unfired 200A from 05/69. It just showed up yesterday and I cannot believe how good it looks. Never seen a drop of fuel. Even has the original sale receipt and they paid $12.99 and got it from Savettes in October of 1969. Another find from a sweet little old grandmother who was cleaning out the house to downsize. Had a buddy pick it up for me and ship it 1800kms to me. Best $80 I have spent on any Coleman product. I'm actually quite surprised at just how similar it is to a 335.
Nice job, as usual, Bill, I always learn something from your interesting and informative vids. Man you live on the edge, rinsing all those small parts in the sink without a sink strainer. Lol!! Thanx for all your efforts, Sam
Bill , good morning. Today I fired up the coleman 202 professional lantern and I couldn't have ever expected a better outcome than I did . With your videos, and all the information being expressed so meticulously, I was able to light the Lantern almost flawlessly. No flames 🔥 this Lantern ran like a well oiled machine. Thank you for all your videos and advice !!!
I am rebuilding a canadian 200 1970 and i had issues with the burner tube,the threads on the tube are stripped and wont thread anymore in the u tube section. As a temporary fix, i will secure the tube in the u tube using a small screw,kinda like on a model 335. I will source replacement parts when i have a parts list long enough to make an order from oldcoleman parts. I need fews littes bits for stoves too. Very informative video!
Wow, that's amazing. I had no idea my 200 was a 1966 Canadian model, still running too with nothing changed. Just using a 21 mantle, but I always thought it looked a bit small for it.
I can confirm that on my 200a, the lantern does light better with the larger mantle. I've been using Peerless with good results. With the #21 equivalent, it sputters and flames a lot more on startup, but with the #99 equivalent, it starts much more smoothly.
Bill, I'm a big fan of your videos. Thanks for all of the information you so accurately share. I recently added a birthday lantern to my collection. A Canadian model 200 dated 3/1961. It has a distinctive maroon/burgundy color. My question for you is whether this coincides with the date range Canadian "burgs" were coming out of the Toronto factory?? Happy to provide a photo if this would help in the identification... Keep up the good work!
Very impressive, I've learned alot by watching this video. Im new to Coleman lantern collecting .Been working on a few #200A lanterns. I was wondering if I should empty all the gas out for storage, but you said its better to leave it in. OK thanks. 😊
If you're using Coleman Fuel it doesn't matter. If you're using unleaded, never store them long term-say longer than six months-with fuel in them. Stale unleaded will leave varnish behind and clog the fuel system.
Great video love the content and great detail on disassembling and cleaning...... I wanted to point out noticed why you were cleaning the parts wood steel wool over your sink with a disposal seeing parts of your steel wool falling into your disposal that wouldn't be good for the disposal or for your drain as it will stop everything up
Oh, by the way , after a 30 min. burn, I noticed a small hole in the mantle. All I had was a #21a , so as I can I'm going to get the peerless #24a . Thanks again !
It happens. It shouldn't, but it does. If those 21a mantles are the ones currently being sold by Coleman, they do not hold up they way they used. They definitely have quality control problems. I haven't had any problems with the few I've used, but I see a lot of photos posted showing missing string ties and blow-outs on first light-up. Peerless are not the same quality they used to be, but are definitely better than the current Coleman mantles.
Being Canadian, you might be unaware that during the Korean War the supply of nickel was severely restricted to industry. Cars made in the early fifties in that period were notorious for having their chrome bumpers flaking prematurely because the nickel in the chrome bumper plating was so restricted.
I don't know what you mean by "pipe screen". I know some folks say they've used faucet screens, but I've looked at them and don't think they'd hold up to the heat very long. I've used brass hardware cloth with good results. Old Coleman Parts sells replacement screens for the common sizes.
Thank you for the high-quality video! Years ago I lived on a property with no electricity and used Coleman and Aladdin lamps exclusively. I recall one of the tricks I would do to dim a Coleman lantern after dinner cleanup was to use the generator cleaner to slightly block the fuel supply and tune it to a nice quiet soft glow. I don't recall doing any damage to the lamps doing this. What do you think about this? Also, it seems like the new Coleman mantels don't last long, could you recommend a quality supplier of replacement mantels?
The cleaning needle wasn't designed to be used as a dimming mechanism, but the on the modern lanterns advertised as "adjustable" that's precisely how the adjusting is done, so it shouldn't be a problem. I do expect, however, that it puts greater "wear and tear" on that thin brass needle. You might tree Peerless mantles. They aren't what they used to be either, but I find that they're quite a better than the current Coleman mantles. You might also keep your eyes open for vintage Coleman mantles in thrift stores, garage sales, consignment sporting goods stores, and even eBay. I don't buy new mantles very often, because I find vintage mantles pretty regularly. Even if you pay a few dollars more, they will last a long time as long as you don't abuse them. I've "daily driver" lanterns that have had the same vintage Coleman Silk-lights on them for five years or more without a problem.
Do you know when the fonts are stamped on the bottom with the date and month manufactured? It appears that they are not manufactured every month of certain years. For example, I see a lot of 12/65s but not a lot of 2, 3, or 4/65 lanterns out there. Thanks.
There are many months for which there are no known stamps. I'm not aware of a comprehensive list of dates that have been found. A few years ago I talked to a guy who worked in the Toronto factory in the late 60s and early 70s and he said that they would typically produce batches of founts large enough to keep the assembly line supplied for at least six to eight weeks.
I just got my hands on a lantern, trying to find what model. Will search your other videos. The stamp on the side says "Coleman. TRADE MARK REGD. THE SUNSHINE OF THE NIGHT. MADE IN CANADA." Either side of made in Canada is first an A then 39 after. Nothing on the bottom. I'm in Australia. Your video is only 4 has old! And the Coleman community is huge! Never knew.
@@MrGaza74 I was going to say to check the collar. The model number is usually stamped there, although the Toronto factory was remiss in doing that around 1936.
@@king.coleman that's where I found it after I cleanedit some more. I just hope I can get it going again. Looks in OK nick, everything there, except I'm not sure what to hang the mantle from, it looks missing. Thanks for such a good channel and the reply. Cheers!
@@king.coleman I was actually referring to a 200a. I should have mentioned that! I haven’t seen any with a black dial and one piece fuel cap. But I’m a relative newbie! 😂 I asked the seller for a picture of the bottom.
@@king.coleman That’s a question I don’t know the answer too. I asked the seller to send a picture of the bottom and they abruptly removed the ad! So I guess it’s all a mute point now! But I do appreciate your replies and the super content you provide!
Hi and good morning, I thought today would be a good day to look over my 202 professional lantern, and the one thing I've noticed is that the cleaning tip is a little difficult to turn . Is there a safe way to make it less difficult without disassembling, and also, would be o.k. to give the lantern a few pumps and open the valve without adding fuel, so I can make sure air flow is normal? Thank u !
You can try loosening the nut on the tip cleaner a bit, rotating the actuator, then tightening the nut up again. It's pretty common for them to be stiff and the only real fix is to replace the whole assembly as they aren't a serviceable part. Yes, you can run air through the valve.
Hello ~ technical advice needed: 200A air fuel tube bottom has separated from the top threaded piece at the mouth. The good news is I now know what the inner tube looks like! I was able to rotate/tilt the mouth back in and seems secure. The inner tube remains free inside and moves around. Is this acceptable or does it need to be fixed inside for uptake? if yes, how would I accomplish that? Also, do I need to reinforce the re-joined mouth to the top piece in any way (solder?) Thank you.
I'm not quite sure what you're describing. If I understand correctly, the outer tube has separated from the rest where it was crimped into the top. If that's the case, it doesn't need to be air-tight at the top. They were originally crimped together and often rotate freely. It might be fine. You'll have to judge how secure it is. It wouldn't hurt anything to solder it back together to ensure it doesn't fall apart inside the fount.
@@king.coleman That's very helpful, thank you. Will any type of solder work? I also noted the inner tube is loose inside. Is it supposed to be fixed in position to the top or meant just to reside freely within the outer?
@@nancykrueger9014 For the outer tube, I'd use silver solder, but I don't think it matters much what you use there. The inner tube should not be loose. If it's loose and letting air pass at its top, it's probably not going to pick up any fuel. I can't give you any advice on repairing it at that point and would suggest you replace the whole assembly.
@@king.coleman Thanks so much. That all makes sense. I learned a lot from the process. You have been most helpful and prompt with replies! It's made the whole process enjoyable instead of frustrating!!
I have a coleman 200A that spews fuel from the tip of the brand new generator no matter what direction the tip cleaning lever is in , Any ideas on what's going on to help me get it repaired ?
It depends on what parts you're talking about. I would not blast a fount, for example. I've had a few founts and stove tanks come into my possession that had been blasted (with stand or some other medium, I don't know) and they were all compromised or damaged. Blasting a rusty burner cage made of steel is probably fine; brass tubes and burners, I probably would not
This is a little off topic. I found in my cellar a 220j that my grandfather had owned. Cleaned it up a little bit dusted it off. Picked up some white fuel at walmart also some mantles. Performed a pressure test and it held pressure. Long story short it works nice bright glow no dimming or mantel ghost. Ive ran it for like 3 hours now no issue just give it occasional pump to build pressure. How is this possible??? it is 44 yrs old 77 on the bottom. Im not a pro but want to have a professional look at it or put a new part or 2 on it . suggestions please!
As long as they don't rust out, the only thing that can really go wrong on a lantern after a long period of storage is that the pump leather will dry out and the cap gasket will harden. That's probably why you're having to add pressure periodically. Replace the cap gasket and that won't be an issue anymore.
Hello King Coleman. I have a 200A dated 8/64. It has a tool kit secured to the bottom of the tank with a band clamp. Was this a optional accessory you could purchase and add on yourself?
hello I was wondering if you could help me I've recently purchased a used coleman peak 1 and would like to know what mantle I could use in it thanks in advance
The small Peak 1 lanterns use a #20 mantle. You can still purchase them directly from Coleman, but they're becoming difficult to find in stores. #21 mantles are easier to find and can be used in a pinch, although they're larger and usually work better if you tie it on above the burner cap.
On that 200 the Christmas 51 do you know what color green that is that they have painted that was because I have 251 and I would love to repaint it but the original color
Coleman didn't name their colours and, frustratingly, varied them through the years. When trying to match them your best bet is to simply match the lantern to the cap on the can of paint. It's not perfect, but you can usually get pretty close. Krylon and Rustoleum both make shades of Hunter Green that are often very close matches. The other option is to take your sample to a shop that will custom tint and put the paint into rattle cans for you. That'll get you the closest match.
@@lampcollector5315 Sorry, Tim. I'm not one of the guys who hoards them. I look for one nice specimen of each model or major variant and limit myself to that, so I don't usually have extras kicking around.
@@king.coleman I understand that fully about hoarding lanterns I just thought I would ask because I had a Christmas that the top was burnt pretty bad I know the painting is not a good choice thank you very much Bill you're a great Lantern worker
Yes I have a 1972 And pretty clean , The problem is when I pump it up it seems to get wet at the UTube connection and it drips from the Mantle screen part so I didnot attempt to light is there a problem why its doing that ?? Thanks for any information you can throw at me and did like the video was interesting how they work and operate
@@king.coleman Thanks for getting back with me , I kind of understand of somewhat of what your saying and understanding that you got the 2 valves the knob valve in front and the rear in back by air tube which am guessing that is a control valve on how much you let out for lighting it up ?? , So how I got into this project it need a new ...Glass... and paid up for the original and I had the Lantern for many years and I have a few of them in keep in basement for safe keeping and I do keep "Coleman Fuel" In the tanks not alot but some is that good or bad as well ?? for safe keeping do to the rust not starting , And I do change the fuel every other year but I Donot use to burn only use to keep my tanks in good shape not sure if it hurts to keep fuel in tank but it's how I do alot of my lanterns I've done lots of night fishing off many Bridges for many years and try to keep them in tip top shape for when I use again , So watch your video on how you rebuild one And after many years if I had a problem with them I just buy another and another never actually knew how to rebuild them and so I watch your whole video and learn alot on how the operation process works and found it interesting on all the parts and what they do , Now with everything being said I did half to take out oil pump to get working again and never knew you could just do that to get them working again that was great and got it working and pump up and when pump I check for a mist to come out the screen and when I did that I notice it get wet at the UTube where connects to the Air Tube that part there was getting wet running down the brass tube and instead of a spray at the Screen Tube it starts dripping out that and now this is where it's confusing me , But I can tell you the knob valve dose close it off and the valve in back by air tube also will shut off Now is that the one that controls the amount of fuel that your letting out and why am getting all this wet fuel Not really sure where to go next and I explain more then what you probably wanted to hear on my fishing life over the years but older man now and Pass it on to the grandkids these Lanterns I have many different ones in good shape and took care of all of them over the years and they are in need of some work and am sure I can tinker with them now to give me something to do , And also like the wood trick taking valve out of tank that is probably the best tool yet I was really impress with that trick and that's call real leverage , So my friend any suggestions where in what to do next ?? And I know I probably will half to invest in that tool to get that one out the tank safely if I do need to do a complete rip down on some also a nice tool to own Appreciate any information on the problem that happening with this one so am understanding without blowing myself up Lol Thank You Again Sir
@@skyeagle3123 The large knob is the fuel control and shut-off. The small wire actuator in the back is for raising and lowering the cleaning needle in the generator to clean the generator tip. It is not for controlling the flow of fuel. If the generator clogs, turn it to clear the clog, otherwise, leave it open. I'm still not clear precisely what you're describing with regard to fuel in the manifold. If there's liquid fuel coming out of the manifold or dripping down the generator, you're flooding it. In this case it sounds like you're simply waiting to long to light it. Open the valve about a quarter to half turn as indicated on the valve knob and apply a lit match. It should light fairly quickly. Sometimes it takes a few seconds for fuel to reach the generator. You'll know when it does, because the hiss of straight air will turn into a sputter as a small amount of fuel runs through the system for lighting. Once it's burning brightly open the valve all the way. You can store a lantern with a full fount of white gas if you like. There's no reason to change it. White gas lasts forever, unlike pump gas.
@@king.coleman Ok then as soon as I get Mantle's on I will give it a try and on the gas I never new that it didn't go bad ? Again here is why I went ahead and light one once after about a good year and when lite it up it lite up but had like a up and down brightness to it and it was pump up pretty good and I was thinking on same basic of what you were saying about white gas thinking it doesn't go bad , So when having that problem I was thinking it was bad and went ahead and put "New In" Then lite it back up and ran find and I was really thinking the same as you were white gas doesn't go bad keep probably at least more then half in my tanks to keep clean because I did use my lanterns alot an rotate them do to I have alot of different ones for bridge fishing and I always kept in ready to go shape and had 3 or 4 to go at all times I honestly did alot of night fishing and swear by it and that was better then day fishing and made alot of my own feather tail jigs and did lots of fishing off old railroad bridges and the day and catch Buckets of fish Lol , So that's why my lanterns were important and there almost like the day I bought them because I have taking care of them over the years and still use every now and than and the younger generation like the grandkids they want them because of how nice they are , I was the kind of person when your done with something clean it put it back so it's ready to use next time thats how I kept my things going through life and honestly if you take care of your stuff most of the time it will keep working , Don't get me wrong I never work on them but if had problems I had good friends who mess with them and knew the in an outs on them so that tells you a little bit about me how I kept my things anyways, Todays time forget about it I wouldn't trade my days and years for anything you will never replace what the U.S.A. When things were made they were built to last not what they make today am sorry am old school and what they are doing to this country in todays world god help us all we didn't deserve this we deserve better after all we built this country and then they throw us the table scraps for made in china Wow , So my friend thank you and you were a great help and will give it a try next day or 2 and see what happens and will let you know how it went and won't write a story on it but maybe someone else learns something about real history and that is people helping one another and how life should be not what we see in todays world , So Thank You Sir An God Bless Be Safe
@@skyeagle3123 I have a headache trying to read your run-on sentence. It would really help if you would use punctuation when writing sentences so we know when one ends and another begins. Try using a period now and then.
On the pump cup? Coleman used neatsfoot oil. I typically use 3in1. Any oil will do as long as it's not some kind of vegetable oil. Vegetable oils go rancid, get sticky, and will eventually cause the leather to harden.
can you send me the link to the flat washer under the frame 200a. There is a flat washer that holds up the frame so it doesn't cut into the fount I don't know the part number for that flat washer it's not listed in anything that I know of unless I'm missing it the flat washer hopes up the frame so it doesn't cut into the fount or at least that's what you said but it does exist because it's on another one that I have
Sir mr. King Coleman was wanting to know why my Lantern like this that you have does not burn as bright as a 200a it gets plenty of hair because it is not plugged up anywhere
You might find my video on fuel system problems helpful in diagnosing your problem. You might also watch my video on theory of operation. th-cam.com/video/ofQBRQxR-XU/w-d-xo.html
Well, I'll know if I drop or end up missing something and I won't turn it on if there's a part in it. One of the reasons I use that side of the sink is that if I do drop something-and I never have-the disposal will catch it and I can fish it out. If I were to drop something in the other side it's gone.
@@jone.7819 Thanks. That prompted me to do a bit more digging. The ICCC book simply notes 1979/1980 as the transition, but digging further it would appear that the transition actually happened in June 1980, so yours would be one of the very last of the reds.
@@king.coleman Thanks so much, this is my one and only 200A I have. I bought it in an antique shop for $100, took a bit to clean it up and get working. But now it's the pride of my collection
@@jone.7819 Thanks for the new info. I know the Canadian 200 series very well, but since I don't actively collect American models I'm not as familiar with the American 200 series. The only reason I've got the few that I do is because the model is so common that some of them make it over the border and every once in a while one falls in my lap.
Anyone else holding their breath watching the scrubbing over the globe in the sink?
Yes, and never use scotch brite
You are a braver man than me, cleaning the small parts without a strainer in your sink...speaking from experience 😃😄 Great video on these lanterns, thanks!
Thanks. In years and years of doing this I've only once had a problem dropping something. I always figured if I did drop something, the garbage disposal will keep it from going down the drain and it's easy enough to fish things out of it. The one time I did put the strainer on this side of the sink in response to video comments, I dropped something, it bounced into the other side of the sink, and went down the drain which would otherwise have had the strainer on it. I had to take the trap apart to get it back.
I very much appreciate the content that you put out. I’m in my early 30’s and have been a collector of lanterns since my teens. I often find it pretty hard to find quality videos with detailed information on any vintage lanterns/stoves. I think a lot of the collectors out there are much older and either don’t know or don’t care about uploading useful information about their hobby. I very much appreciate you bridging the gap for us. I hope you continue with these super informative videos! Thanks
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad to be of help.
I just got a BNIB, unfired 200A from 05/69. It just showed up yesterday and I cannot believe how good it looks. Never seen a drop of fuel. Even has the original sale receipt and they paid $12.99 and got it from Savettes in October of 1969. Another find from a sweet little old grandmother who was cleaning out the house to downsize. Had a buddy pick it up for me and ship it 1800kms to me. Best $80 I have spent on any Coleman product. I'm actually quite surprised at just how similar it is to a 335.
The 200 and 335 are functionally equivalent. The 335 was the replacement for the 200 in Canada. Nice find.
Nice job, as usual, Bill, I always learn something from your interesting and informative vids. Man you live on the edge, rinsing all those small parts in the sink without a sink strainer. Lol!! Thanx for all your efforts, Sam
Bill , good morning. Today I fired up the coleman 202 professional lantern and I couldn't have ever expected a better outcome than I did . With your videos, and all the information being expressed so meticulously, I was able to light the Lantern almost flawlessly. No flames 🔥 this Lantern ran like a well oiled machine. Thank you for all your videos and advice !!!
Glad to be of help.
I am rebuilding a canadian 200 1970 and i had issues with the burner tube,the threads on the tube are stripped and wont thread anymore in the u tube section. As a temporary fix, i will secure the tube in the u tube using a small screw,kinda like on a model 335. I will source replacement parts when i have a parts list long enough to make an order from oldcoleman parts. I need fews littes bits for stoves too. Very informative video!
Thank you. I can pack a 200 series lantern inside my Coleman 426D
Wow, that's amazing. I had no idea my 200 was a 1966 Canadian model, still running too with nothing changed. Just using a 21 mantle, but I always thought it looked a bit small for it.
I can confirm that on my 200a, the lantern does light better with the larger mantle. I've been using Peerless with good results. With the #21 equivalent, it sputters and flames a lot more on startup, but with the #99 equivalent, it starts much more smoothly.
Very nice lantern. Thanks for putting the video together.
Awesome video, very informative as always. You've got some very nice examples! Thanks for making this
I just sold one on eBay I bought at a garage sale. I the buyer got a excellent deal
Very interesting.
Looks great Bill. I run a 24A on my 200As and they do great.
Bill, I'm a big fan of your videos. Thanks for all of the information you so accurately share. I recently added a birthday lantern to my collection. A Canadian model 200 dated 3/1961. It has a distinctive maroon/burgundy color. My question for you is whether this coincides with the date range Canadian "burgs" were coming out of the Toronto factory?? Happy to provide a photo if this would help in the identification... Keep up the good work!
I have never heard of a Canadian "burg". To the best of my knowledge, the "burgs" were a Wichita thing.
Thank you for the informative video. Thank you for talking in the video. I will have to find one of those clam shell cases for my 200a's..
Awesome video. You should do an identical one with a 252 military
I'd be happy to, but I have yet to come across a milspec here in Canada.
Very impressive, I've learned alot by watching this video. Im new to Coleman lantern collecting .Been working on a few #200A lanterns. I was wondering if I should empty all the gas out for storage, but you said its better to leave it in. OK thanks. 😊
If you're using Coleman Fuel it doesn't matter. If you're using unleaded, never store them long term-say longer than six months-with fuel in them. Stale unleaded will leave varnish behind and clog the fuel system.
@king.coleman OK, what I bought is the stove and lantern fuel in the white can, it's not genuine Coleman fuel. ?
@@stevemccoy8138 That' s probably Crown. It's white gas, like Coleman Fuel. The storage problem is with unleaded, not with white gas.
@king.coleman OK thanks.
Great video love the content and great detail on disassembling and cleaning...... I wanted to point out noticed why you were cleaning the parts wood steel wool over your sink with a disposal seeing parts of your steel wool falling into your disposal that wouldn't be good for the disposal or for your drain as it will stop everything up
Oh, by the way , after a 30 min. burn, I noticed a small hole in the mantle. All I had was a #21a , so as I can I'm going to get the peerless #24a . Thanks again !
It happens. It shouldn't, but it does. If those 21a mantles are the ones currently being sold by Coleman, they do not hold up they way they used. They definitely have quality control problems. I haven't had any problems with the few I've used, but I see a lot of photos posted showing missing string ties and blow-outs on first light-up. Peerless are not the same quality they used to be, but are definitely better than the current Coleman mantles.
Great video! I may have to switch over to CA from vinegar.
Being Canadian, you might be unaware that during the Korean War the supply of nickel was severely restricted to industry. Cars made in the early fifties in that period were notorious for having their chrome bumpers flaking prematurely because the nickel in the chrome bumper plating was so restricted.
No, I'm aware of that. I'm American, I just live in Canada.
Going to rebuild one I just got this Sunday.
Question do the vents always change color when they are burned.
@@TraceyAllen Yes, that’s normal.
Great content. Could I use a pipe screen as a replacement?
I don't know what you mean by "pipe screen". I know some folks say they've used faucet screens, but I've looked at them and don't think they'd hold up to the heat very long. I've used brass hardware cloth with good results. Old Coleman Parts sells replacement screens for the common sizes.
very informative
Thanks!
Would the font need to be rinsed free of the fogging oil before re fueling? Thanks for the great video!
No. There's not enough oil to be a problem.
@@king.coleman Thank you.
Thank you for the high-quality video!
Years ago I lived on a property with no electricity and used Coleman and Aladdin lamps exclusively. I recall one of the tricks I would do to dim a Coleman lantern after dinner cleanup was to use the generator cleaner to slightly block the fuel supply and tune it to a nice quiet soft glow. I don't recall doing any damage to the lamps doing this. What do you think about this? Also, it seems like the new Coleman mantels don't last long, could you recommend a quality supplier of replacement mantels?
The cleaning needle wasn't designed to be used as a dimming mechanism, but the on the modern lanterns advertised as "adjustable" that's precisely how the adjusting is done, so it shouldn't be a problem. I do expect, however, that it puts greater "wear and tear" on that thin brass needle. You might tree Peerless mantles. They aren't what they used to be either, but I find that they're quite a better than the current Coleman mantles. You might also keep your eyes open for vintage Coleman mantles in thrift stores, garage sales, consignment sporting goods stores, and even eBay. I don't buy new mantles very often, because I find vintage mantles pretty regularly. Even if you pay a few dollars more, they will last a long time as long as you don't abuse them. I've "daily driver" lanterns that have had the same vintage Coleman Silk-lights on them for five years or more without a problem.
@@king.coleman Thank you so much for your quick reply and advise!
Do you know when the fonts are stamped on the bottom with the date and month manufactured? It appears that they are not manufactured every month of certain years. For example, I see a lot of 12/65s but not a lot of 2, 3, or 4/65 lanterns out there. Thanks.
There are many months for which there are no known stamps. I'm not aware of a comprehensive list of dates that have been found. A few years ago I talked to a guy who worked in the Toronto factory in the late 60s and early 70s and he said that they would typically produce batches of founts large enough to keep the assembly line supplied for at least six to eight weeks.
Could make a bench out of that piece of wood for the valve
I just got my hands on a lantern, trying to find what model. Will search your other videos. The stamp on the side says "Coleman. TRADE MARK REGD. THE SUNSHINE OF THE NIGHT. MADE IN CANADA." Either side of made in Canada is first an A then 39 after. Nothing on the bottom. I'm in Australia.
Your video is only 4 has old! And the Coleman community is huge! Never knew.
I think I found it, 242B 1939. Cool!
@@MrGaza74 I was going to say to check the collar. The model number is usually stamped there, although the Toronto factory was remiss in doing that around 1936.
@@king.coleman that's where I found it after I cleanedit some more. I just hope I can get it going again. Looks in OK nick, everything there, except I'm not sure what to hang the mantle from, it looks missing.
Thanks for such a good channel and the reply. Cheers!
Great explanation! Have you ever seen a 65 version with a black fuel dial and a one piece fuel cap? Thanks!
Yes. That would be normal for a Canadian 200 of that period. On American models the one-piece cap and black knob weren't introduced until the 70s.
@@king.coleman Thanks!
@@king.coleman I was actually referring to a 200a. I should have mentioned that! I haven’t seen any with a black dial and one piece fuel cap. But I’m a relative newbie! 😂 I asked the seller for a picture of the bottom.
Is it American or Canadian?
@@king.coleman That’s a question I don’t know the answer too. I asked the seller to send a picture of the bottom and they abruptly removed the ad! So I guess it’s all a mute point now! But I do appreciate your replies and the super content you provide!
Hi and good morning, I thought today would be a good day to look over my 202 professional lantern, and the one thing I've noticed is that the cleaning tip is a little difficult to turn . Is there a safe way to make it less difficult without disassembling, and also, would be o.k. to give the lantern a few pumps and open the valve without adding fuel, so I can make sure air flow is normal? Thank u !
You can try loosening the nut on the tip cleaner a bit, rotating the actuator, then tightening the nut up again. It's pretty common for them to be stiff and the only real fix is to replace the whole assembly as they aren't a serviceable part. Yes, you can run air through the valve.
As always sir, I thank u and have a pleasant weekend !
Hi Bill, I have a canadian 200 dated 02-69. It has a steel fount but it's written 200 (no A) on the collar, does that make sense?
Yep. Canadian 200As were only marked as such on the box. The transition from 200 to 200A took place about 1966.
Hello ~ technical advice needed: 200A air fuel tube bottom has separated from the top threaded piece at the mouth. The good news is I now know what the inner tube looks like! I was able to rotate/tilt the mouth back in and seems secure. The inner tube remains free inside and moves around. Is this acceptable or does it need to be fixed inside for uptake? if yes, how would I accomplish that?
Also, do I need to reinforce the re-joined mouth to the top piece in any way (solder?) Thank you.
I'm not quite sure what you're describing. If I understand correctly, the outer tube has separated from the rest where it was crimped into the top. If that's the case, it doesn't need to be air-tight at the top. They were originally crimped together and often rotate freely. It might be fine. You'll have to judge how secure it is. It wouldn't hurt anything to solder it back together to ensure it doesn't fall apart inside the fount.
@@king.coleman That's very helpful, thank you. Will any type of solder work? I also noted the inner tube is loose inside. Is it supposed to be fixed in position to the top or meant just to reside freely within the outer?
@@nancykrueger9014 For the outer tube, I'd use silver solder, but I don't think it matters much what you use there. The inner tube should not be loose. If it's loose and letting air pass at its top, it's probably not going to pick up any fuel. I can't give you any advice on repairing it at that point and would suggest you replace the whole assembly.
@@king.coleman Thanks so much. That all makes sense. I learned a lot from the process. You have been most helpful and prompt with replies! It's made the whole process enjoyable instead of frustrating!!
I have a coleman 200A that spews fuel from the tip of the brand new generator no matter what direction the tip cleaning lever is in , Any ideas on what's going on to help me get it repaired ?
Is the cleaning needle intact? Sometimes they get bent when installing the new generator.
Also note that the cleaning needle only slows the flow of fuel, it does not stop it. It will dim the brightness, but it won't extinguish the lantern.
Do you think it would be alright to use a sandblaster to clean up rusty parts or do you think it would be too harsh?
It depends on what parts you're talking about. I would not blast a fount, for example. I've had a few founts and stove tanks come into my possession that had been blasted (with stand or some other medium, I don't know) and they were all compromised or damaged. Blasting a rusty burner cage made of steel is probably fine; brass tubes and burners, I probably would not
@@king.coleman Thanks!
This is a little off topic.
I found in my cellar a 220j that my grandfather had owned.
Cleaned it up a little bit dusted it off.
Picked up some white fuel at walmart also some mantles. Performed a pressure test and it held pressure. Long story short it works nice bright glow no dimming or mantel ghost.
Ive ran it for like 3 hours now no issue just give it occasional pump to build pressure. How is this possible??? it is 44 yrs old 77 on the bottom.
Im not a pro but want to have a professional look at it or put a new part or 2 on it . suggestions please!
As long as they don't rust out, the only thing that can really go wrong on a lantern after a long period of storage is that the pump leather will dry out and the cap gasket will harden. That's probably why you're having to add pressure periodically. Replace the cap gasket and that won't be an issue anymore.
@@king.coleman
Thank You, for the response/answer.
Hello King Coleman. I have a 200A dated 8/64. It has a tool kit secured to the bottom of the tank with a band clamp. Was this a optional accessory you could purchase and add on yourself?
Yes. It's called parts safe and they were sold by Coleman as accessories.
The 200s are cute, but I prefer the big hat 228s.
Yep. There's something about the big hats. My favourites are the big hat Akrons and Prentiss Wabers.
hello I was wondering if you could help me I've recently purchased a used coleman peak 1 and would like to know what mantle I could use in it thanks in advance
The small Peak 1 lanterns use a #20 mantle. You can still purchase them directly from Coleman, but they're becoming difficult to find in stores. #21 mantles are easier to find and can be used in a pinch, although they're larger and usually work better if you tie it on above the burner cap.
@@king.coleman thank you
On that 200 the Christmas 51 do you know what color green that is that they have painted that was because I have 251 and I would love to repaint it but the original color
Coleman didn't name their colours and, frustratingly, varied them through the years. When trying to match them your best bet is to simply match the lantern to the cap on the can of paint. It's not perfect, but you can usually get pretty close. Krylon and Rustoleum both make shades of Hunter Green that are often very close matches. The other option is to take your sample to a shop that will custom tint and put the paint into rattle cans for you. That'll get you the closest match.
@@king.coleman Bill do you have any 200 days out there or some tall tops red you'd like to sell
@@lampcollector5315 Sorry, Tim. I'm not one of the guys who hoards them. I look for one nice specimen of each model or major variant and limit myself to that, so I don't usually have extras kicking around.
@@king.coleman I understand that fully about hoarding lanterns I just thought I would ask because I had a Christmas that the top was burnt pretty bad I know the painting is not a good choice thank you very much Bill you're a great Lantern worker
Yes I have a 1972 And pretty clean , The problem is when I pump it up it seems to get wet at the UTube connection and it drips from the Mantle screen part so I didnot attempt to light is there a problem why its doing that ?? Thanks for any information you can throw at me and did like the video was interesting how they work and operate
Be sure the valve is closed. If it is closed, then you've got a problem in the valve that's allowing fuel to seep past the shut-off point.
@@king.coleman Thanks for getting back with me , I kind of understand of somewhat of what your saying and understanding that you got the 2 valves the knob valve in front and the rear in back by air tube which am guessing that is a control valve on how much you let out for lighting it up ?? , So how I got into this project it need a new ...Glass... and paid up for the original and I had the Lantern for many years and I have a few of them in keep in basement for safe keeping and I do keep "Coleman Fuel" In the tanks not alot but some is that good or bad as well ?? for safe keeping do to the rust not starting , And I do change the fuel every other year but I Donot use to burn only use to keep my tanks in good shape not sure if it hurts to keep fuel in tank but it's how I do alot of my lanterns I've done lots of night fishing off many Bridges for many years and try to keep them in tip top shape for when I use again , So watch your video on how you rebuild one And after many years if I had a problem with them I just buy another and another never actually knew how to rebuild them and so I watch your whole video and learn alot on how the operation process works and found it interesting on all the parts and what they do , Now with everything being said I did half to take out oil pump to get working again and never knew you could just do that to get them working again that was great and got it working and pump up and when pump I check for a mist to come out the screen and when I did that I notice it get wet at the UTube where connects to the Air Tube that part there was getting wet running down the brass tube and instead of a spray at the Screen Tube it starts dripping out that and now this is where it's confusing me , But I can tell you the knob valve dose close it off and the valve in back by air tube also will shut off Now is that the one that controls the amount of fuel that your letting out and why am getting all this wet fuel Not really sure where to go next and I explain more then what you probably wanted to hear on my fishing life over the years but older man now and Pass it on to the grandkids these Lanterns I have many different ones in good shape and took care of all of them over the years and they are in need of some work and am sure I can tinker with them now to give me something to do , And also like the wood trick taking valve out of tank that is probably the best tool yet I was really impress with that trick and that's call real leverage , So my friend any suggestions where in what to do next ?? And I know I probably will half to invest in that tool to get that one out the tank safely if I do need to do a complete rip down on some also a nice tool to own Appreciate any information on the problem that happening with this one so am understanding without blowing myself up Lol Thank You Again Sir
@@skyeagle3123 The large knob is the fuel control and shut-off. The small wire actuator in the back is for raising and lowering the cleaning needle in the generator to clean the generator tip. It is not for controlling the flow of fuel. If the generator clogs, turn it to clear the clog, otherwise, leave it open.
I'm still not clear precisely what you're describing with regard to fuel in the manifold. If there's liquid fuel coming out of the manifold or dripping down the generator, you're flooding it. In this case it sounds like you're simply waiting to long to light it. Open the valve about a quarter to half turn as indicated on the valve knob and apply a lit match. It should light fairly quickly. Sometimes it takes a few seconds for fuel to reach the generator. You'll know when it does, because the hiss of straight air will turn into a sputter as a small amount of fuel runs through the system for lighting. Once it's burning brightly open the valve all the way.
You can store a lantern with a full fount of white gas if you like. There's no reason to change it. White gas lasts forever, unlike pump gas.
@@king.coleman Ok then as soon as I get Mantle's on I will give it a try and on the gas I never new that it didn't go bad ? Again here is why I went ahead and light one once after about a good year and when lite it up it lite up but had like a up and down brightness to it and it was pump up pretty good and I was thinking on same basic of what you were saying about white gas thinking it doesn't go bad , So when having that problem I was thinking it was bad and went ahead and put "New In" Then lite it back up and ran find and I was really thinking the same as you were white gas doesn't go bad keep probably at least more then half in my tanks to keep clean because I did use my lanterns alot an rotate them do to I have alot of different ones for bridge fishing and I always kept in ready to go shape and had 3 or 4 to go at all times I honestly did alot of night fishing and swear by it and that was better then day fishing and made alot of my own feather tail jigs and did lots of fishing off old railroad bridges and the day and catch Buckets of fish Lol , So that's why my lanterns were important and there almost like the day I bought them because I have taking care of them over the years and still use every now and than and the younger generation like the grandkids they want them because of how nice they are , I was the kind of person when your done with something clean it put it back so it's ready to use next time thats how I kept my things going through life and honestly if you take care of your stuff most of the time it will keep working , Don't get me wrong I never work on them but if had problems I had good friends who mess with them and knew the in an outs on them so that tells you a little bit about me how I kept my things anyways, Todays time forget about it I wouldn't trade my days and years for anything you will never replace what the U.S.A. When things were made they were built to last not what they make today am sorry am old school and what they are doing to this country in todays world god help us all we didn't deserve this we deserve better after all we built this country and then they throw us the table scraps for made in china Wow , So my friend thank you and you were a great help and will give it a try next day or 2 and see what happens and will let you know how it went and won't write a story on it but maybe someone else learns something about real history and that is people helping one another and how life should be not what we see in todays world , So Thank You Sir An God Bless Be Safe
@@skyeagle3123 I have a headache trying to read your run-on sentence. It would really help if you would use punctuation when writing sentences so we know when one ends and another begins. Try using a period now and then.
What oil do you use? Neatsfoot or something else?
On the pump cup? Coleman used neatsfoot oil. I typically use 3in1. Any oil will do as long as it's not some kind of vegetable oil. Vegetable oils go rancid, get sticky, and will eventually cause the leather to harden.
can you send me the link to the flat washer under the frame 200a. There is a flat washer that holds up the frame so it doesn't cut into the fount I don't know the part number for that flat washer it's not listed in anything that I know of unless I'm missing it the flat washer hopes up the frame so it doesn't cut into the fount or at least that's what you said but it does exist because it's on another one that I have
I don't know what you mean.
Sir mr. King Coleman was wanting to know why my Lantern like this that you have does not burn as bright as a 200a it gets plenty of hair because it is not plugged up anywhere
You might find my video on fuel system problems helpful in diagnosing your problem. You might also watch my video on theory of operation.
th-cam.com/video/ofQBRQxR-XU/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video, only suggestion I have is to not clean metal parts with steel wool over your garbage disposal in your sink. Metal parts can kill it.
Well, I'll know if I drop or end up missing something and I won't turn it on if there's a part in it. One of the reasons I use that side of the sink is that if I do drop something-and I never have-the disposal will catch it and I can fish it out. If I were to drop something in the other side it's gone.
I'm sure you are careful, but even small pieces of steel wool can really mess up a disposal. Again thank you for the great video.
What about the black band version
They're a variant of the all red American 200A, made between late 1951 and mid-1953.
I actually have a 1980 red 200A
No doubt dated early in the year.
@@king.coleman 6/80 June
@@jone.7819 Thanks. That prompted me to do a bit more digging. The ICCC book simply notes 1979/1980 as the transition, but digging further it would appear that the transition actually happened in June 1980, so yours would be one of the very last of the reds.
@@king.coleman Thanks so much, this is my one and only 200A I have. I bought it in an antique shop for $100, took a bit to clean it up and get working. But now it's the pride of my collection
@@jone.7819 Thanks for the new info. I know the Canadian 200 series very well, but since I don't actively collect American models I'm not as familiar with the American 200 series. The only reason I've got the few that I do is because the model is so common that some of them make it over the border and every once in a while one falls in my lap.
Does anyone out there have a red high vet they want to get rid of
vae.fyi
brilliant
I can make you waterslide decals.