Adam, watching all your videos from 3-4 years ago and following you on your wonderful journey to this point has been absolutely wonderful. I remember thinking to myself a while back when you were working for that other machine shop that you really needed to start your own. I am so thrilled for you that you’ve reached this point to follow your passion for such a fascinating profession and I wish you and your lovely Bride, Abby, a continuing wonderful and exciting future. Keep doin’ what you’re doin’ ‘cause you’re doin’ AWESOME! 👍👍👊👊
Fantastic video! I love this type of video where you show us the setup of your new tools and shop. And, thanks for not leaving the embarrassing tap break out of this segment. It was great that you quickly recognized what had happened and corrected it. BTW, love the new shop!
I've had sinus problems since I was a young teen: constantly stuffed up, sinus infections, etc. Several years ago I had the same procedure and it worked out great for me. It was the best thing that I had done. I now wake up in the morning being able to breath through my nose.
I must say you truly are the essence of the saying "the customers pay for the years of knowledge not the time taken". Some small bits may take you 30 mins but the knowledge to do that in 30 mins is what costs and that's exactly how it should be. Excellent videos 👍 keep it up.
Adam is a very smart shop owner. Bet ten years from now he will still come up with improvements to his great shop. Time saver having commonly used items within arms reach.
Your grandpa and pops would be proud to see you.....inside that very capable shop! Pls for the lovebof God don't ever stop putting that picture up at the end!
Couple things: On the PM Lathe, how about using a 1/4" or 3/8" NPT quick connect air hose fitting to quickly remove the coolant stand pipe? A couple or 90* elbows will allow you to kick it back out of the way, quickly, and the quick disconnect will let you seal of the pipe and remove the pipe completely whenever needed. Love the mod on the mist-cool tank. Additionally, I'd make a plate matched to the same bolt pattern, but with a 1/2 or 3/4 hole drilled where you put the x-slit to allow the siphon hose through, it's belts and suspenders, but keeps any "accidents' and oils from swelling or degrading the rubber and damaging the part over time. A trick I use when using a hole saw it to momentarily running the saw in reverse to "scratch a pass" in the material and kind of pre-forming a groove in the material so the saw has a path to follow and it minimizes run-out, potentially eliminating an over-sized hole. Great vid, loving the new shop and all the new equipment and watching you build out your "Dream Shop". Absolutely AWESOME!!
When I was young I worked in a shop where we fabricated automation machinery: part orientors, pickers and placers, that sort of thing. We used 1/8" neoprene for noise abatement material, but like you've done, everyone would cut off chunks and use it to top their toolboxes and to line the drawers. I have some that is now (pulls out calculator) 44 years old and it looks like new, that stuff is durable as hell.
Adam, Thanks for the heads up on the Anchor Lube made right here in NE Ohio USA. I bought a small container to try it out on a food grade machine repair (Meat slicer). And now I'm sold on it. I just ordered a larger container from McMaster Carr on Friday. I highly recommend it to anyone thats looking for a lubricant thats biodegradable and WORKS as they say it does. And the best part is, Its Made and Sold right here in OHIO 🇺🇸 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲 USA.
Been a long time viewer Abom, don't comment much. Love the new shop, and appreciate you bringing us along on the journey as you build it out! Believe you are spot on with the tap issue, not a flex arm issue at all. Sure would make a great "getter-out" video! Thanks, enjoy your content, keep on Man, keep on!
Flat head bolts set in depressions punched down into a depression cut in a piece of aluminum, worked for me. You always want that sheet of rubber-ish material on the entire metal shelf, for sound reduction, shelf and or tool protection and prevention of tool walking, if any ground, air or shop vibrations are transmitted onto the shelf.
I'll introduce you to greenlee punches, it's how an electrician would make a hole in a panel without chips flying all over the place. Lots of options to draw them, a bolt and a wrench being the cheapest.
I put cord reels on a couple of our lab benches, but I modded them to go the other way. The cord that come out is the male plug, and I put a metal junction box on the table. This allowed the instillation of GFI, over current protection, surge supression (both in and out), and multiple outlets on the tables without needing to deal with bulky hardware.
May I suggest you keep up the awesome job of making Great videas and having one of my Favorite channels on TH-cam !!!! I Love You and Abby and all y’all do !!
I reckon adding some rubber grommets to the holes you drilled in that tooling shelf on the lathe would really finish it off. It'd go with the rubber mat and it'd keep the taper tooling from making noise if you get any harmonics when you're making a cut.
Glad you shared about your proceedure. My ENT Doctor reduced the size of my turbinates 22 years ago. I now have almost NO sinus infections, and if I get a cold, I can still breathe through my nose. Now if they could only cure my allergies. ;) Thanks for all the video's Adam. I truly wish I had investigated Machining when I was a teenager. I know I would be one today, if I had. I'm learned a lot from watching your videos. Hopefully one day I can return the favor and share something to help you.
A note on the tailstock locking handle, busting your knuckles on the coolant pipe. You probably know this, but anyhow i think you have a nut under the tailstock to adjust how far you have to pull the handle if that would be to your liking. I do on my Takang lathe, made in Taiwan in the early 80 and is extremely lookalike the PM. Very likely the same manufacturer and a nice high quality lathe. Works fine even after 40+ years of heavy wear!
I have cut hundreds of holes with this type of hole saw. The best looking holes are cut with the Greenlee carbide hole saws. The carbide cuts much cleaner and the saws last damn near for ever. I am a retired electrician and over the years i found a method to improve the action of a hole saw. First drill out the pilot bit hole in the hole saw mandrel to 3/8” and replace the pilot with a 3/8” rod. Then drill your panel with a 3/8” bit. The 1/4” pilot bits tend to cut over size and then they continue to cut as you try to cut the hole resulting in a ragged ass hole. Some of the hole saw mandrils may not accept a 3/8” hole all the way through the mandrill, so use a 5/16” hole and rod. Evan if you just use a 1/4” rod you will get a better hole than you will with 1/4” pilot bit
Hang in there as a guy with chronic sinus decease and have had three sinus surgeries it does get better with the care of a specialist. Glad you are getting the help you need.
Lovely modification, nice to see old and new tools in the shop but most of all - please take care of your health first. Hope all goes well and you will have a rapid recovery!
A great pleasure to see your work, thumbs up all 10. It's a really smart idea with that shelf over the lathe, it's something I should have made on my own lathe. Greetings from Ivan who lives in Denmark
Great video once again, shop is looking good! I also have those Wiha hammers and after some moderate use all of them had the rubber grips come loose, sending the head and shaft flying through the shop. Easy to fix with some glue so it might be best to check yours and do it preemptively before someone gets hurt or something gets damaged.
Counter ink the holes and use tapered flat head screws. That way the chips won't get in the holes like they would if you stamp holes in the rubber mat.
That's a helpful set of projects to have completed. Don't often see machine vices on the swivel base, but your application on the flex arm table makes a lot of sense to have that function.
It will probably also help with any chips that fly off the back to ricochet up hit the shelf and fall back down vs landing behind the lathe. Great idea.!
42:25 My Dad had terrible sinus problems, infection for years. One time were were tearing down an old barn for the timbers, a hardwood 6X6 got loose on one end and swung down and clapped him square on the forehead as he was partially bent over. And this almost florescent yellow fluid ran out of his nose for like 30 or 40 seconds! . He snorted out a bunch more over the rest of the day. Sinus problems GONE permanently :) .. Not a recommended medical procedure. Anyone but an Irishman would be knocked out cold and require an ambulance! :)
Very nice honest video , well done budy ☆☆☆☆☆ Love it that you even show mishaps so we all learn of it. Hope you recover soon of your nassal problems. Gtzz from the netherlands Johny geerts This
Several years ago I made a *shelf* like that for mine..I made it outta 12ga sheet metal. I made the shelf for the tool holders at an angle with a lip that they sit on..its a 3 angle shelf. The top I drilled holes in various sizes for centers etc. And I put my mag mounts on top for easy access..A pic I wish I could send. Good luck Adam!👍🏻👍🏻
6:03 ... Wrong length, will till work out OK. One time I ordered a fire door for the access tot the shop I built to attached my house. A 30" door would fit in the old window opening perfectly. They read the 30 inch request a 3' 0" believe it or not. I made it fit, and I do not know HOW many times having a full size door there, has saved my ass, moving appliances and furniture! :)
@@firesurfer Good point! .. This was a retrofit in a 100 year old house, and from one room to another, and was cleared with the building permit at the time. BUT I am very happy they sent me the larger door!
@@MikeBaxterABC If it's egress into the house, I'm surprised they ok'd the smaller door. Entrance doors should never be less than 3' 0". You can't get furniture in or access for wheelchairs. I guess the only reason it was ok was that it was for a shop.
@@firesurfer Both units have full size exit doors, to the outdoors, and this was over 25 years ago too. Frankly making the bigger door fit was not that much work, either. I don't really know why I was stuck on the idea of that tiny 30" door :)
If you do that modification to the coolant mounting block, you could consider making it a split clamping style. That way, with a turn of a knob, you could loosen it and drop the coolant tube in the vertical direction
Adam, to make life a bit easier get yourself one of the Kreg self-adjusting clamps, the ones they use for clamping the jig for drilling the holes for the Kreg screws, to use in place of the c-clamp. I use them to clamp all kinds of things for drilling holes, cutting off flat stock with a cut-off wheel. The amount of clamping pressure they exert is adjustable. Real time saver.
An immediate improvement to air flow would be to go to the larger air chucks. Normally the hole in the male fitting that clicks into the female chuck is very small and restricts flow. Larger connectors cure this. Most manufacturers make them - Milton does. It looks as though your air chucks are the standard size and I am not talking about the pipe thread size to connect them to the hose. Hope this helps. You did a good thing getting rid of the smaller hoses.
Adam, When I was in my mid 30s I had major issues wiith sinus presure and pain. I had surgery for a deviated septum. No further issues with that 30 years later. Hang in there.
You have the dream life man .... I honestly would rather do what you do at your real job and for fun more than anything.... you are blessed and I'm glad that your dad and grandfather were able to keep the trade in the family and pass down they're knowledge ... it's awee inspiring to me and I take all your videos to heart.....keep an coming and my best to you man
Adam there is a much simpler way of getting knuckle clearance from you coolant post. Just mark the side facing you over its full height and get a pipe bender and put a bend away from the bottom and a bend on the opposite side to the same angle. It will of course shorten the goal height, but given that you have a long flexible section on it that should be no problem to the operation of the coolant system.
I don’t trust just three holes. The weight of the tool holders add up pretty quickly. 11 gauge aluminum seems pretty sturdy, but all the leverage is around those three holes. I would just put three brackets at the back to tie to the vertical. That would eliminate the strain on the three screws on the top. I think it was the adjustment on the collet that broke the tap. All of the rest of the holes tapped just fine, even it there was an angle. I think the clutch has just enough variability, particularly when new before it wears in, that that hole was just different enough to cause the snap. Lowering the clutch torque may have been the main factor when hitting the bottom. A friend of mine had the same procedure years ago. It took over a week to fully recover. But it’s been a good 15 years, and he’s been fine. So good luck with that.
I'd suggest a 90° fitting for the air line on the flex arm. That would put the hose straight down and in less chance of getting whacked by something on the way by.
Your shop sure is coming along nicely, Adam! I love how you have a place for everything, and everything is always in its place. A neat shop lets you work that much faster. It always amazes me how well you make everything work out. Even when someone makes a mistake, you make it work. I also love your work ethic and your love for your family. It’s something I always strive to reach. You are my hero Adam! Keep all this great content coming. We’ll consume it as fast as you put it out. I hope you feel better soon, Adam. Much love from South Texas!😉🥰 Edit: I believe you’re talking about balloon sinuplasty. I was thinking of having that done too since I have problems with my sinues always being stuffed up. I need to do some research and see if it’s something that will help my issues. Get better soon, buddy. Take it easy.👍🏻✌🏻
We use Loc-Line for our coolant, magnetic stand so that we can move them around if needed. The "pipe and nozzle" can so be shorter and is easier to keep out of harms way...
Broken Tap... : Good call Adam, I reckon you are correct. When it happened it looked on the video like the body of the flex arm kicked a bit sideways. Which makes sense if the hole was not truly perpendicular as you later explained. Thanks for being real... Hey, we all have failures! :) I always enjoy your content, thanks.
Abom, you should get your self a set of greenlee nock-out / punch-out cutters. Way cleaner way to go then the hole saw for putting holes in aluminum. There a life saver for tradesmen. Shop sure is looking good tho. I definitely think you dad and grandpa would definitely be proud to see how far you have come to be able to have a brand new shop.
Even though your tap was not aligned to the hole, the clutch should have stalled and saved your tap. That seems to indicate the clutch was set too high. For example, even after the adjustment you made, the machine was still able to do the tapping. But I wonder if the clutch needs to be set differently based on the tap diameter. IE a larger diameter tap is likely stronger and needs more turning force while machining the threads.
Not entirely true. When trying to follow the off-axis hole, the tap gets a moment load applied rather than just a torsion load. When it bottomed, the combined moment and torsion load was more than the metal could withstand so it snapped. Agreed with Adam here, and his many years of experience are worth a considerable amount too.
Retired gas passer here. Remember a lot of sinus endoscopies.. Some people have such chronic problems that the inside of their sinuses are filled with evil looking cottage cheese looking stuff. I use to look transfixed at the crap the ENT guy would flush out.
Hey Adam for the flexarm i would recomend you use a swivel fitting for the air hose, doesn't put the fitting under stress due weight of hose. I use one of those on my plasma cutter and it works a treat and i can carry the unit around and the hose follows along wiyhout stressing the regulator fixture.
@@MatthewScott Just a question of checking specs. Like i mentioned my plasma needs constant 5/6 bar and its working fine. I do not know how much CFM that tool uses but i would assume one can find a 3/8 swivel to match the hose.
That shelf is a great idea. The height of the back lip will prevent any of the tools from hanging over the back side. You mentioned the boring bars will have to sit sideways. If you have OCD like I do on organizing tools, consider reducing the height of the lip just enough so the tools can overhang and allow all the tools to sit the same direction. The shortened upturned lip should provide more than enough support since the shelf is bolted down.
Nice! Will consider the same for my lathe once it's all cleaned up and ready. The little OCD deamon in me thought "countersunk screws. A bit of shame that the shelve does not go more towards the chuck.
When you got that lathe I was thinking the same thing about the coolant pipe. Seems like it wasn't thought out properly tbh just like the oil fill and drain setup. It like the ppl who make them don't actually use their own machines or think about the end usability of it. 🤷 Looking good though Adam, shops coming along nicely!👍👍 Adam, you can get more of that blue Loc-Line hose for the cool mist system and extend the length of the existing hose really easily. They sell the pliers needed to connect and remove the segments and their pretty cheap, same goes for the hose extensions. I found a 10 piece set of 11½" sections for $15 on Amazon, if you want to go that route.
For tapping magnetic materials, you could potentially stick the magnet to the top and tighten the vice while it's still attached. Just my thought. Keep doing what you're doing, we all love how much you share. Hopefully I can get my lathe going pretty soon. All the best, Isaac
Adam, watching all your videos
from 3-4 years ago and following you on your wonderful journey to this point has been absolutely wonderful. I remember thinking to myself a while back when you were working for that other machine shop that you really needed to start your own. I am so thrilled for you that you’ve reached this point to follow your passion for such a fascinating profession and I wish you and your lovely Bride, Abby, a continuing wonderful and exciting future. Keep doin’ what you’re doin’ ‘cause you’re doin’ AWESOME! 👍👍👊👊
Thank you!
Thanks for the video Adam, it's great to see the new workshop taking shape! Look after yourself, you're an inspiration to so many.
Fantastic video! I love this type of video where you show us the setup of your new tools and shop. And, thanks for not leaving the embarrassing tap break out of this segment. It was great that you quickly recognized what had happened and corrected it. BTW, love the new shop!
WOW, you're really pupping out these videos! Thanks for sharing your time with us!
Love your videos, always learning a lot. Glad to hear you are getting your sinus issues resolved. Keep up the good work and take care of yourself.
I've had sinus problems since I was a young teen: constantly stuffed up, sinus infections, etc. Several years ago I had the same procedure and it worked out great for me. It was the best thing that I had done. I now wake up in the morning being able to breath through my nose.
I must say you truly are the essence of the saying "the customers pay for the years of knowledge not the time taken". Some small bits may take you 30 mins but the knowledge to do that in 30 mins is what costs and that's exactly how it should be. Excellent videos 👍 keep it up.
Got to love modifications to brand new equipment :) Make it yours.
Be well, health comes first. Love seeing the new shop come together. Always good content, keep up the good work
Adam is a very smart shop owner. Bet ten years from now he will still come up with improvements to his great shop. Time saver having commonly used items within arms reach.
Thanks Adam - enjoying the new shop.
Man the new shop is really looking good you should be proud
Get well soon!! Really good video. A lot of things getting done to make the new shop better and more productive. Take care.
Thanks Adam for continuing sharing your knowledge
Can’t lie I had a second of silence before I burst out laughing when that tap blew up
Must be so satisfying to build up a fresh new space just the way you want
Your grandpa and pops would be proud to see you.....inside that very capable shop! Pls for the lovebof God don't ever stop putting that picture up at the end!
Yeah, that shelf is really nice. Simple but really useful.
Couple things: On the PM Lathe, how about using a 1/4" or 3/8" NPT quick connect air hose fitting to quickly remove the coolant stand pipe? A couple or 90* elbows will allow you to kick it back out of the way, quickly, and the quick disconnect will let you seal of the pipe and remove the pipe completely whenever needed. Love the mod on the mist-cool tank. Additionally, I'd make a plate matched to the same bolt pattern, but with a 1/2 or 3/4 hole drilled where you put the x-slit to allow the siphon hose through, it's belts and suspenders, but keeps any "accidents' and oils from swelling or degrading the rubber and damaging the part over time. A trick I use when using a hole saw it to momentarily running the saw in reverse to "scratch a pass" in the material and kind of pre-forming a groove in the material so the saw has a path to follow and it minimizes run-out, potentially eliminating an over-sized hole. Great vid, loving the new shop and all the new equipment and watching you build out your "Dream Shop". Absolutely AWESOME!!
When I was young I worked in a shop where we fabricated automation machinery: part orientors, pickers and placers, that sort of thing. We used 1/8" neoprene for noise abatement material, but like you've done, everyone would cut off chunks and use it to top their toolboxes and to line the drawers. I have some that is now (pulls out calculator) 44 years old and it looks like new, that stuff is durable as hell.
Adam, Thanks for the heads up on the Anchor Lube made right here in NE Ohio USA. I bought a small container to try it out on a food grade machine repair (Meat slicer). And now I'm sold on it. I just ordered a larger container from McMaster Carr on Friday. I highly recommend it to anyone thats looking for a lubricant thats biodegradable and WORKS as they say it does. And the best part is, Its Made and Sold right here in OHIO 🇺🇸 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲 USA.
Yea it’s a great tapping fluid. I enjoy using it. Keeps the cutting flutes wet during the entire cutting cycle without having to re-apply.
Been a long time viewer Abom, don't comment much. Love the new shop, and appreciate you bringing us along on the journey as you build it out! Believe you are spot on with the tap issue, not a flex arm issue at all. Sure would make a great "getter-out" video! Thanks, enjoy your content, keep on Man, keep on!
Flat head bolts set in depressions punched down into a depression cut in a piece of aluminum, worked for me. You always want that sheet of rubber-ish material on the entire metal shelf, for sound reduction, shelf and or tool protection and prevention of tool walking, if any ground, air or shop vibrations are transmitted onto the shelf.
I am not a machinist never have been but you are certainly building my dream workshop for when I wake up with all the skills you have
Your shop is lookin better all the time & good luck with the medical issues.
Get better soon! Great post.
I'll introduce you to greenlee punches, it's how an electrician would make a hole in a panel without chips flying all over the place. Lots of options to draw them, a bolt and a wrench being the cheapest.
🤔 Unless you use a C-frame punch you still have to drill the pilot hole sending chips all over the place...
It must be nice to have 2 machine shops. Yes I'm a little envious. I'm man enough to admit it. Good for you.
I put cord reels on a couple of our lab benches, but I modded them to go the other way. The cord that come out is the male plug, and I put a metal junction box on the table. This allowed the instillation of GFI, over current protection, surge supression (both in and out), and multiple outlets on the tables without needing to deal with bulky hardware.
Adam, you are beyond organized! I would assume your closets and cupboards in your home and equally tidy. Loving the new shop!
May I suggest you keep up the awesome job of making Great videas and having one of my Favorite channels on TH-cam !!!! I Love You and Abby and all y’all do !!
Good to ear you are keeping on top of your health. you and Abby have a blessed day.
I reckon adding some rubber grommets to the holes you drilled in that tooling shelf on the lathe would really finish it off. It'd go with the rubber mat and it'd keep the taper tooling from making noise if you get any harmonics when you're making a cut.
Glad you shared about your proceedure. My ENT Doctor reduced the size of my turbinates 22 years ago. I now have almost NO sinus infections, and if I get a cold, I can still breathe through my nose. Now if they could only cure my allergies. ;) Thanks for all the video's Adam. I truly wish I had investigated Machining when I was a teenager. I know I would be one today, if I had. I'm learned a lot from watching your videos. Hopefully one day I can return the favor and share something to help you.
That shelf is brilliant, obvious when you see it Doh! Im going to do that on my old Emco. Love it
A note on the tailstock locking handle, busting your knuckles on the coolant pipe. You probably know this, but anyhow i think you have a nut under the tailstock to adjust how far you have to pull the handle if that would be to your liking. I do on my Takang lathe, made in Taiwan in the early 80 and is extremely lookalike the PM. Very likely the same manufacturer and a nice high quality lathe. Works fine even after 40+ years of heavy wear!
I have cut hundreds of holes with this type of hole saw. The best looking holes are cut with the Greenlee carbide hole saws. The carbide cuts much cleaner and the saws last damn near for ever. I am a retired electrician and over the years i found a method to improve the action of a hole saw. First drill out the pilot bit hole in the hole saw mandrel to 3/8” and replace the pilot with a 3/8” rod. Then drill your panel with a 3/8” bit. The 1/4” pilot bits tend to cut over size and then they continue to cut as you try to cut the hole resulting in a ragged ass hole. Some of the hole saw mandrils may not accept a 3/8” hole all the way through the mandrill, so use a 5/16” hole and rod. Evan if you just use a 1/4” rod you will get a better hole than you will with 1/4” pilot bit
Nice tip that'll come in handy for me to I'm sure.
Thanks for the hint on sinus dilation. I've had drainage problems for 60 years, ever since a severe sinus infection while I was in high school.
Go visit the nose Dr and see if they will help you out! I’m still recovering but I’m doing much better already.
Hang in there as a guy with chronic sinus decease and have had three sinus surgeries it does get better with the care of a specialist. Glad you are getting the help you need.
Lovely modification, nice to see old and new tools in the shop but most of all - please take care of your health first.
Hope all goes well and you will have a rapid recovery!
God Bless you and keep you friend, you're a wonderful human being, I hope my oldest grandson grows up to be like you. Loved the video too.
I really like the Flexarm. That's awesome!
You should get an air hose swivel for the flexarm to take some of the tension off the fittings when you connect the air hose
A great pleasure to see your work, thumbs up all 10. It's a really smart idea with that shelf over the lathe, it's something I should have made on my own lathe.
Greetings from
Ivan who lives in Denmark
I love an organized shop, I wish mine was.
Great video once again, shop is looking good!
I also have those Wiha hammers and after some moderate use all of them had the rubber grips come loose, sending the head and shaft flying through the shop. Easy to fix with some glue so it might be best to check yours and do it preemptively before someone gets hurt or something gets damaged.
Perfect setup for a tap extraction exercise!
Counter ink the holes and use tapered flat head screws. That way the chips won't get in the holes like they would if you stamp holes in the rubber mat.
That's a helpful set of projects to have completed. Don't often see machine vices on the swivel base, but your application on the flex arm table makes a lot of sense to have that function.
It will probably also help with any chips that fly off the back to ricochet up hit the shelf and fall back down vs landing behind the lathe. Great idea.!
42:25 My Dad had terrible sinus problems, infection for years. One time were were tearing down an old barn for the timbers, a hardwood 6X6 got loose on one end and swung down and clapped him square on the forehead as he was partially bent over.
And this almost florescent yellow fluid ran out of his nose for like 30 or 40 seconds! .
He snorted out a bunch more over the rest of the day. Sinus problems GONE permanently :) .. Not a recommended medical procedure.
Anyone but an Irishman would be knocked out cold and require an ambulance! :)
I’ve been blowing that stuff out of my nose all week now that the pipes are opened up!
@@Abom79 That's the trick!! :)
Very nice honest video , well done budy ☆☆☆☆☆
Love it that you even show mishaps so we all learn of it.
Hope you recover soon of your nassal problems.
Gtzz from the netherlands
Johny geerts
This
SNS 365: How to remove a broken tap. :)
Thanks for reporting your condition. Hope you're well soon.
Several years ago I made a *shelf* like that for mine..I made it outta 12ga sheet metal. I made the shelf for the tool holders at an angle with a lip that they sit on..its a 3 angle shelf. The top I drilled holes in various sizes for centers etc. And I put my mag mounts on top for easy access..A pic I wish I could send. Good luck Adam!👍🏻👍🏻
ADAM, YOU WILL GET BETTER, GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO...LET'S GO TO WORK...
6:03 ... Wrong length, will till work out OK. One time I ordered a fire door for the access tot the shop I built to attached my house. A 30" door would fit in the old window opening perfectly.
They read the 30 inch request a 3' 0" believe it or not.
I made it fit, and I do not know HOW many times having a full size door there, has saved my ass, moving appliances and furniture! :)
@@jamesdrake2378 Good call ... Yes, and I thought I knew everything :) ... It turned out for the best at any rate :)
3 foot doors are the legal standard. It's been that way for quite a while. A 30" door is tiny.
@@firesurfer Good point! .. This was a retrofit in a 100 year old house, and from one room to another, and was cleared with the building permit at the time.
BUT I am very happy they sent me the larger door!
@@MikeBaxterABC If it's egress into the house, I'm surprised they ok'd the smaller door. Entrance doors should never be less than 3' 0". You can't get furniture in or access for wheelchairs. I guess the only reason it was ok was that it was for a shop.
@@firesurfer Both units have full size exit doors, to the outdoors, and this was over 25 years ago too.
Frankly making the bigger door fit was not that much work, either.
I don't really know why I was stuck on the idea of that tiny 30" door :)
If you do that modification to the coolant mounting block, you could consider making it a split clamping style. That way, with a turn of a knob, you could loosen it and drop the coolant tube in the vertical direction
Adam, to make life a bit easier get yourself one of the Kreg self-adjusting clamps, the ones they use for clamping the jig for drilling the holes for the Kreg screws, to use in place of the c-clamp. I use them to clamp all kinds of things for drilling holes, cutting off flat stock with a cut-off wheel. The amount of clamping pressure they exert is adjustable. Real time saver.
Better that tap broke in a practice scrap piece than a customer part that mattered.
Love this time of the week, have a beer and watching another SNS. 👍
Adam, you cannot beat the hydraulic punches for sheet metal work! They always give a clean accurate cut.
You should be an instructor for Machinists. You have knowledge and skills that the kids need and America needs.
If it deflects or bends down mount you a wall shelf bracket under it in each end
Good for you for going to the doctor. Get well soon.
The coolant feed is exactly the same on my Harrison M300. I lowered it in the block and it saves running into it with your knuckles.
An immediate improvement to air flow would be to go to the larger air chucks. Normally the hole in the male fitting that clicks into the female chuck is very small and restricts flow. Larger connectors cure this. Most manufacturers make them - Milton does. It looks as though your air chucks are the standard size and I am not talking about the pipe thread size to connect them to the hose. Hope this helps. You did a good thing getting rid of the smaller hoses.
Adam,
When I was in my mid 30s I had major issues wiith sinus presure and pain. I had surgery for a deviated septum. No further issues with that 30 years later. Hang in there.
Glad you're on the road to recovery the shops coming along excellently
Your PM lathe runs so smooth.
Good analysis on your broken tap situation. I would love to see a video on how to remove a broken tap to salvage a machined part.
You have the dream life man .... I honestly would rather do what you do at your real job and for fun more than anything.... you are blessed and I'm glad that your dad and grandfather were able to keep the trade in the family and pass down they're knowledge ... it's awee inspiring to me and I take all your videos to heart.....keep an coming and my best to you man
Adam there is a much simpler way of getting knuckle clearance from you coolant post. Just mark the side facing you over its full height and get a pipe bender and put a bend away from the bottom and a bend on the opposite side to the same angle. It will of course shorten the goal height, but given that you have a long flexible section on it that should be no problem to the operation of the coolant system.
Or tighten the lock nut on the the tailstock a half turn so it's locked before you reach the coolant hose?
I don’t trust just three holes. The weight of the tool holders add up pretty quickly. 11 gauge aluminum seems pretty sturdy, but all the leverage is around those three holes. I would just put three brackets at the back to tie to the vertical. That would eliminate the strain on the three screws on the top.
I think it was the adjustment on the collet that broke the tap. All of the rest of the holes tapped just fine, even it there was an angle. I think the clutch has just enough variability, particularly when new before it wears in, that that hole was just different enough to cause the snap. Lowering the clutch torque may have been the main factor when hitting the bottom.
A friend of mine had the same procedure years ago. It took over a week to fully recover. But it’s been a good 15 years, and he’s been fine. So good luck with that.
I'd suggest a 90° fitting for the air line on the flex arm. That would put the hose straight down and in less chance of getting whacked by something on the way by.
Your shop sure is coming along nicely, Adam! I love how you have a place for everything, and everything is always in its place. A neat shop lets you work that much faster. It always amazes me how well you make everything work out. Even when someone makes a mistake, you make it work. I also love your work ethic and your love for your family. It’s something I always strive to reach. You are my hero Adam! Keep all this great content coming. We’ll consume it as fast as you put it out. I hope you feel better soon, Adam. Much love from South Texas!😉🥰
Edit: I believe you’re talking about balloon sinuplasty. I was thinking of having that done too since I have problems with my sinues always being stuffed up. I need to do some research and see if it’s something that will help my issues. Get better soon, buddy. Take it easy.👍🏻✌🏻
Put an LED light bar underneath shelf add light to the lathe bed : )
An RGB light show.
I admire that you don’t edit out failures anyone who repairs or builds things have them I certainly do,love the new shop.
hope your sinuses clear up quickly and well
We use Loc-Line for our coolant, magnetic stand so that we can move them around if needed. The "pipe and nozzle" can so be shorter and is easier to keep out of harms way...
Broken Tap... : Good call Adam, I reckon you are correct. When it happened it looked on the video like the body of the flex arm kicked a bit sideways. Which makes sense if the hole was not truly perpendicular as you later explained.
Thanks for being real... Hey, we all have failures! :) I always enjoy your content, thanks.
Abom, you should get your self a set of greenlee nock-out / punch-out cutters. Way cleaner way to go then the hole saw for putting holes in aluminum. There a life saver for tradesmen.
Shop sure is looking good tho. I definitely think you dad and grandpa would definitely be proud to see how far you have come to be able to have a brand new shop.
Even though your tap was not aligned to the hole, the clutch should have stalled and saved your tap. That seems to indicate the clutch was set too high. For example, even after the adjustment you made, the machine was still able to do the tapping. But I wonder if the clutch needs to be set differently based on the tap diameter. IE a larger diameter tap is likely stronger and needs more turning force while machining the threads.
Not entirely true. When trying to follow the off-axis hole, the tap gets a moment load applied rather than just a torsion load. When it bottomed, the combined moment and torsion load was more than the metal could withstand so it snapped. Agreed with Adam here, and his many years of experience are worth a considerable amount too.
Retired gas passer here. Remember a lot of sinus endoscopies.. Some people have such chronic problems that the inside of their sinuses are filled with evil looking cottage cheese looking stuff. I use to look transfixed at the crap the ENT guy would flush out.
The point where the tailstock clamp locks should be adjustable. Move it so it locks before your knuckles hit the coolant valve.
Hey Adam for the flexarm i would recomend you use a swivel fitting for the air hose, doesn't put the fitting under stress due weight of hose. I use one of those on my plasma cutter and it works a treat and i can carry the unit around and the hose follows along wiyhout stressing the regulator fixture.
most of them limit the air flow. painters won't use them on paint guns etc because of this.
@@MatthewScott Just a question of checking specs. Like i mentioned my plasma needs constant 5/6 bar and its working fine. I do not know how much CFM that tool uses but i would assume one can find a 3/8 swivel to match the hose.
Thanks for the sinus info! I think I may have the same problem.
The new shop comes near to perfection. To produce some chips
That southern twang we have is all just sinus problems, you to can have the twang! For the low low payment of a few summers in pine pollen!
That shelf is a great idea. The height of the back lip will prevent any of the tools from hanging over the back side. You mentioned the boring bars will have to sit sideways. If you have OCD like I do on organizing tools, consider reducing the height of the lip just enough so the tools can overhang and allow all the tools to sit the same direction. The shortened upturned lip should provide more than enough support since the shelf is bolted down.
Nice! Will consider the same for my lathe once it's all cleaned up and ready.
The little OCD deamon in me thought "countersunk screws. A bit of shame that the shelve does not go more towards the chuck.
I love anchor lube, I use it for cutting, drilling and tapping.
It's also great as a personal lubricant.
The shop is going to be great
On that tailstock lock... you can raise up the floating block under the bed and you wont have to raise the handle as far.
When you got that lathe I was thinking the same thing about the coolant pipe. Seems like it wasn't thought out properly tbh just like the oil fill and drain setup. It like the ppl who make them don't actually use their own machines or think about the end usability of it. 🤷
Looking good though Adam, shops coming along nicely!👍👍
Adam, you can get more of that blue Loc-Line hose for the cool mist system and extend the length of the existing hose really easily. They sell the pliers needed to connect and remove the segments and their pretty cheap, same goes for the hose extensions. I found a 10 piece set of 11½" sections for $15 on Amazon, if you want to go that route.
The new shop is really coming together, with all the tools you now have I hope your security is up to scratch.
"Like it was made for it" I see what you did there. 🙂
Thanks for the "Nose" update....!
Yes, I'm interested how it'll work out, cause I have problems with a Septum deviation to.
It's looking like a high end showroom.
For tapping magnetic materials, you could potentially stick the magnet to the top and tighten the vice while it's still attached. Just my thought. Keep doing what you're doing, we all love how much you share. Hopefully I can get my lathe going pretty soon.
All the best,
Isaac
That assumes the top is any more square than the bottom was.