Treat the two fat wires to the back of the ammeter with great care. The entire alternator output flows thru the meter on its way to the battery, making the connections there and back via the firewall connector critical. I found that out the hard way, at the side of Interstate 90 in western Minnesota. In January. Brrrr. Also note if you're converting to electronic ignition, the mid-70's ECU was fairly straightforward but very vulnerable to supply line noise. It required the no-points electronic voltage regulator I spotted on your firewall (with that extra wire going to the correct 1970's alternator) to prevent upsetting the ECU. Just imitate the wiring found in any 1973-74 Plymouth, it's similar to what you're dealing with. And use the correct ballast resistor that matches your ECU.
That '64 is a real nice car, a survivor.
Thanks for sharing.
I love that body style.
Take care, Ed.
Nice! I love that wagon!
Treat the two fat wires to the back of the ammeter with great care. The entire alternator output flows thru the meter on its way to the battery, making the connections there and back via the firewall connector critical. I found that out the hard way, at the side of Interstate 90 in western Minnesota. In January. Brrrr.
Also note if you're converting to electronic ignition, the mid-70's ECU was fairly straightforward but very vulnerable to supply line noise. It required the no-points electronic voltage regulator I spotted on your firewall (with that extra wire going to the correct 1970's alternator) to prevent upsetting the ECU. Just imitate the wiring found in any 1973-74 Plymouth, it's similar to what you're dealing with. And use the correct ballast resistor that matches your ECU.
My ‘63 Dodge Polara with a 383 (all stock) has the blue wire to positive and black with yellow stripe to negative on the coil. …
thank you
@@MoparNation You are very welcome