Nice idea, accessible to most DIYers. My favorite method is to make hardwood shavings with a plane, glue some of that around the dowel so as to make it slightly fatter than the hole, let it fully dry, and sand down to 'sneak up' on the hole size for a perfect fit. I saw it on a furniture repair channel (not finding it now to reference the guy), where he used it to strengthen loose tenon joints in chair legs/rungs.
Perhaps it was Fixing Furniture, e.g. at th-cam.com/video/DmjHAyVWWqI/w-d-xo.html - notice also that PVA glue is used to attach the shavings to the tenon (or dowel), but hide glue is used to attach the tenon or dowel to the hole (mortise) as it can be reversed for future repairs.
I laughed at the term gruel you used for that mixture. I use that same mixture to fill in gaps between dovetails if needed. It will forever be known in my woodshop as gruel. Always enjoy your tips.
Nice tip but I think it would be better to add the glue/sawdust mixture to the holes rather than the dowels. The mixture on the dowels can be pushed out (as it did in your example), distributing sawdust to the outside preventing the two pieces from closing completely. Alternatively, clean off whatever squeezes out before assembly. Not to be "that guy" but there were some pretty noticeable gaps in that joint. :)
I was hoping to get something on loose dowels when they are not glued, but rather, used for alignment, which is a common practice when doing 2 sided CNC work. What I typically do is similar, but different. I’ll run some thin CA glue from the top of the hole and let it run down into the hole, throwing some loose sawdust down the hole with the glue. Not enough to fill it, but just enough to let the sawdust cling to the CA glue. Let it dry for a few minutes, then force a dowel into the hole to push the sawdust/CA glue mixture to the sides. After that, the hole is usually good enough for a few days of use. When that doesn’t work, I do a similar thing, but I include more sawdust and glue the entire dowel in and cut it off, flush with the spoilboard and sand it flat. Then I just redrill the same hole and it’s usually tougher than it was in the first place. I hope this helps someone!
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Nice idea, accessible to most DIYers. My favorite method is to make hardwood shavings with a plane, glue some of that around the dowel so as to make it slightly fatter than the hole, let it fully dry, and sand down to 'sneak up' on the hole size for a perfect fit. I saw it on a furniture repair channel (not finding it now to reference the guy), where he used it to strengthen loose tenon joints in chair legs/rungs.
Perhaps it was Fixing Furniture, e.g. at th-cam.com/video/DmjHAyVWWqI/w-d-xo.html - notice also that PVA glue is used to attach the shavings to the tenon (or dowel), but hide glue is used to attach the tenon or dowel to the hole (mortise) as it can be reversed for future repairs.
I laughed at the term gruel you used for that mixture. I use that same mixture to fill in gaps between dovetails if needed. It will forever be known in my woodshop as gruel. Always enjoy your tips.
Nice tip but I think it would be better to add the glue/sawdust mixture to the holes rather than the dowels. The mixture on the dowels can be pushed out (as it did in your example), distributing sawdust to the outside preventing the two pieces from closing completely. Alternatively, clean off whatever squeezes out before assembly. Not to be "that guy" but there were some pretty noticeable gaps in that joint. :)
I always love your tips they are the best
I was hoping to get something on loose dowels when they are not glued, but rather, used for alignment, which is a common practice when doing 2 sided CNC work. What I typically do is similar, but different. I’ll run some thin CA glue from the top of the hole and let it run down into the hole, throwing some loose sawdust down the hole with the glue. Not enough to fill it, but just enough to let the sawdust cling to the CA glue. Let it dry for a few minutes, then force a dowel into the hole to push the sawdust/CA glue mixture to the sides. After that, the hole is usually good enough for a few days of use.
When that doesn’t work, I do a similar thing, but I include more sawdust and glue the entire dowel in and cut it off, flush with the spoilboard and sand it flat. Then I just redrill the same hole and it’s usually tougher than it was in the first place. I hope this helps someone!
What if you want one side to hold the pin but the other capable of being removed?
What about if it is something that I want to be able to take apart. Is there a solution without Glue
Pieces of flat toothpicks work also.
Maybe a wood epoxy stuck might work?