I don’t know if you still read these comments, but this was super helpful. I’ve watched other videos, and they either go too fast or they don’t give enough detail. One of them did a 2x speed walk through the garden instead of just showing her walking regular speed. Not helpful. I am a relatively new gardener who was forced to take care of the plants at my rental house. 😆 I struggled with thrips all last year, trying everything to get rid of them. To the point of making my roses look as unhealthy as the thrips did. This year I concentrated on using beneficial insects. Wow! What a difference. And I don’t have to spray a bunch of chemicals that don’t work anyway.
We read all the comments. So glad you found this helpful! This is exactly the kind of testimonial we like to hear, when folks find natural solutions that work better than "fighting nature". Enjoy your garden.
Great information! I have used beneficial nematodes before but I did not realize my water needed to be filtered. I love the back-pack sprayer, too. Thanks!
Great video, you confirmed the process I plan to use next week. I have a Hudson diaphragm sprayer and, unfortunately, can't find the nozzle size nor find a replacement nozzle that is definitely 400 micron or larger. I'm treating .5 acres so hoping to figure this out before my nematodes (Arbico Triple Threat) arrive. I spoke with Arbico and they only told me to never use high pressure (>100psi) since that will tear apart the worms (these backpack sprayers won't reach those pressures but I guess a commercial device might). Hoping for fewer pests and more happy plants.
Awesome job explaining how and where to use different species of nematodes.... I have just started a living soil bed indoors. And to control fungus nats I'm adding them to the soil and cover crops. Wasn't sure how to apply them until now ty so much
IMPORTANT - Nematodes are surprisingly large. Even many watering can roses will not have holes big enough to let them through. The minimum size of the holes (or your spray jet hole) is 400 microns, which is 0.4mm or 0.016 inches. When I used a standard watering can, I was surprised to find it kept completely clogging; nothing but a dribble coming out! Nematodes really are that big. Thanks for the video
Yes, I don't remember whether I mention the importance of a 400 micron mesh sprayer or not in the video, but that is standard for microbial distribution.
@@Gardenerd yes, you did mention >400 microns, but microns aren't a measurement that many Gardeners will be familiar with. So I added the millimetres & inches equivalent. They really are much larger than people might suppose. I own several garden sprayers, none of which would work with Nematodes. You might also like to clarify to your viewers why morning (or evening) application is important. As well as the need to keep the area moist after application. Again, thanks for the video.
I had always heard of nematodes for slugs in England, but not available in the US. I have a major slug problem and might have figured out a way around it. Some of the slugs have nematodes and the bacteria associated with it and I will be making my own nematode tea. Thanks for the video. It was great.
Don't forget to mix them in the sprayer regularly too so they all don't sit at the bottom :). I really loved this video and your presentation. Beautiful throughout.
Inline KDF filters such as Boogie Blue Plus and Camco 52702 only remove 70% of chloramines. You can get rid of the remainder using sodium ascorbate or Vitamin C powder. 1/8 teaspoon per five gallons is enough to treat water that's been through a KDF filter. Also a good idea to check water temp before adding nematodes. I keep it very close to 60F. If it's too cold, I heat it up with a 600 watt immersion heater.
Hi - Great video! How do you keep the soil moist for a week after spraying? Do you mulch after, if so what mulch do you use? Also, I notice you use as foliar spray as well - are there any plants to avoid spraying like this? I am in Southern California zone 10b. Thank you!
Mulching is a great idea, and you can even apply the beneficial microbes on top of mulch. They work their way down below the mulch. I water bare soil for a week or so after by hand, with either collected rain water or filtered water (Hose end filters are available from folks like Boogie Brew). I don't avoid spraying any particular plants, it's more important what time of day/ temperatures you apply in than what you're spraying. As mentioned, before sunrise or after sundown is best, in cooler temperatures. If you are concerned about powdery mildew, morning is better. I hope this helps!
Very informative. I only wish I could buy a small amount as I've got 1 tomato plant and 3 cukes. Been ravaged by insects and already have had to replace the plants. And you can leave water out overnight, and open to the air, to rid it of chlorine.
I highly recommend going in on a package of nematodes with a friend or two. It will defer the costs and you'll all benefit. And yes, chlorine will dissipate if you leave it out overnight, but many municipalities are treating with chloramine, not chlorine. Chloramine will not dissipate.
I've just learned about using these little dudes to combat fleas which is just what I need!! I've had heavy rains in my area lately and so my question is would it be ok to use them during this wet season or wait until it's not raining as much?
It depends. If your soil is heavy clay and takes a long time to drain, then wait until the soil is more workable to apply beneficial nematodes. If it's sandy and drains well, apply while it's wet and that will help you keep the soil at the optimal moisture level for the nematodes.
How often would u need to treat the whole yard and the plants? I hate how ugly my small citrus trees look due to leaf miners and treating them weekly isnt doable for me, I'd love to have a longer lasting solution. Does it get washed away by rain? Do nematodes have any negative effects on pollinators? Tks for the great video!
Giordana, I treated my citrus trees once and that did the trick (it's been more than a year). The nematodes remain in the soil and on leaf surfaces and hopefully repopulate if conditions are good. They don't negatively affect pollinators since they don't seek out pollen or nectar themselves and don't live near those parts of the plant. It is a long-lasting solution.
great video, thank you! I am assuming all Solo backpack sprayers have the correct >400 microns on the nozzle? Do you leave in the nozzle filter or remove?
Solo has the right micron mesh in the nozzle, from what I could find in my research. I leave it as is an use it that way. From the results I've seen on my crops, it's working properly.
I understand that filtered water is needed when mixing and applying to make sure you don't damage the nematodes, will watering later kill them? From automatic sprinklers and such ?
Municipal water is either chlorinated or chloraminated, so there will be some loss of microbial life. But if you can wait at least a day or so before watering, time it out that way.
I just received my 3 different nematodes five days ago and have them in the fridge. I know they only last 14 days so I have to get out there. My question is, I need to fertilize my garden (organically fish emulsion), but I’m afraid it will hurt the nematodes. How long do I wait after I spray the nematodes, to be able to fertilize? Thanks so much!!!!!!!!
Fish emulsion shouldn't cause any distress to your nematodes (I think this because people use fish hydrolysate when brewing compost tea and there are often nematodes in there). I you apply your fertilizer now, then apply your nematodes tomorrow, or vice versa, that should be enough time for things to settle between applications. You're feeding microbes with the fish emulsion as much as your plants, so it's all good.
@@Gardenerd thank you so much fir such a quick response!! I will be planting my tomatoes tomorrow with fertilizer (fish). Thank you so much, I was so worried about this.
Thanks for this. I read that you're supposed to apply them a second time after 7-10 days. Do you know if that means I need to purchase a second order of them? I'm assuming I shouldn't be dividing up the first order into two parts and saving the second half for a week, right?
Some biological products can be stored in the fridge for a week, so it is possible to divide them into batches. Read the care instructions for your product carefully before doing that and give the manufacturer a call to inquire if it's not clear on the instructions.
If you have a thick layer of mulch on top of your soil, can you just spray the nematodes right onto the mulch or do you recommend removing the mulch and spraying directly onto the soil?
Very informative video! Thank you! I have a bad infestation of Asiatic beetles in my 1500 sq ft garden of catmint, geraniums, Black-eyed Susan's and pink drift roses. I plucked off 33 beetles last night in less than 20 minutes. My plants are dying. Several catmint have totally dried out and more on the way. Do the grubs do irreversible damage? Wondering if my half dead plants will come back in the spring but not sure if the roots are too damaged.
If there is enough of the root system left the roots will generate new offshoots, but it's hard to tell. Keep an eye on them and look for new growth. It might help to prune back the plants a little, as that usually triggers root development.
@@Gardenerd I just read that nematodes eat boxwood roots. I have green velvet boxwoods next to all of the plants under beetle attack. Will the nematodes you recommend eat my boxwood roots too?
Super video! Thank you! Question, you sprayed on plants and trees…you mentioned that you need to keep the soil moist for a week. Is that the same for the tree and plant leaves as well! Thank you as I’m just learning regarding nematodes 🙃
You don't need to keep the leaf surfaces wet. Nematodes only have one place to go when they hit leaf surfaces so they will burrow inside or do the job of attacking whatever critters are on there right away. The soil-applied nematodes will do more long-lasting work if the soil is kept moist (hospitable for them).
I am so grateful for this video, we have been dealing with fleas every year in our yard AND house every summer for two years without any pets! (My son and I basically get eaten alive.) we don’t plant any food but would you recommend we use all 3 nematodes? You also mentioned it’s important to spray at specific times, what are those times? Thanks!!
If you visit the Arbico Organics website and search for fleas you'll see which nematodes are best for those. You may only need one or two. Nematodes are best applied before sunrise or after sunset.
@@Gardenerd thank you, I will be buying my nematodes this week- I called and they said i had to wait until the weather warmed up above 40 degrees overnight or the nematodes would die. What water filter do you recommend?
this is great info, thank you! Quick question, would i be right in saying that Beneficial nematodes Heterorhabditis bacteriophora would be my best bet to treat a tree which has termites?
Can they be applied to decomposed granite? I have a small patio yard. I finally realized that my dogs are constantly getting bit by ants and possibly fleas even tho they are protected with flea preventative. It's not stopping them from getting bit.
Hmmm, DG isn't the best habitat for beneficial microbes, especially if it has stabilizer in it. I'm not sure that they can survive or drill down to soil below it. If you can excavate down to soil and apply it there, that would be better. Or apply nearby in soil surrounding the DG.
Question after spraying my vegetable garden with nematodes, how do you properly clean the sprayer. I want to make sure all nematodes are out of the container.
I usually add a gallon of water, re-pressurize and spray something that needs water to clear the nozzle. Then swirl and dump the rest in the tank. I don't use soaps because I don't want any residues the next time I use it. But I suppose you could do that too.
Do you need to pull back mulch and apply directly to soil for ornamental plants? I am looking to treat Viburnum Borers with Heterorhabditis bacteriophora.
You can apply it over the mulch, but it's not too much trouble to pull the mulch away, I'd do that. Then the mulch will provide some shelter and cooling until the nematodes can work their way down to the deeper soil.
I am in N TX and have fleas and fire ants galore this year after a very wet spring. Now it is scorching hot. In your opinion, is it better to wait until fall to treat with the triple threat or go ahead and treat now (as soon as they are back in stock and ship) and do my best to keep the ground moist? I don't want to just throw away my money. Also, would I treat the whole yard (just under an acre) or focus on the areas where my dog spends the most time and my garden beds? This was an excellent video BTW. Great info and succinct.
J Mach - it depends on whether you get freezing temperatures in fall/winter. The folks at Arbico Organics recommend applying during either spring or fall, but if winter temperatures are harsh, you may significantly decrease the population of the nematodes. So you may need to apply again in spring. So check your hardiness zone for typical low temps during fall/winter and gauge from there. I'd say apply in fall and again in spring.
I am in Central Texas, and was a little bit worried about how the heat would affect my application… I wonder if that might be what the question was about : instead of cool temperatures, hot temperatures? I would love to hear if I’m about to fry my poor little beneficial nematodes as I apply then in the evening, as is recommended on the bottle, at 91°. I am hoping to kill off all the ants in my garden that are currently trying to eat everything in sight, including me… thank you!
@@jenniferpangelinan2667 Thanks for your question. It's not so much heat as it is sunlight that can kill off these nematodes during the daytime. Remember, they can exist in soil temperatures in a compost bin up to 95ºF. They may not be as effective, but they are still working. Your idea to apply at night is a good one. Consider applying shade cloth for a few days if you can (if you are applying to leaf surfaces).
I noticed that my garden has grubs in the soil so I applied some nematodes last night but want to get some earthworm for the garden. Do you think this will be an issue? will the earthworm eat all the nematodes?
Interesting question. They don't interact too much. Earthworms eat decaying matter (actually they eat the bacteria that colonize on decaying matter), and nematodes eat other stuff like insects and other nematodes but not earthworms. You're all good.
Generally speaking, most organic remedies for parasitic and root feeding nematodes include crab meal (chitinase), neem oil, and treatments with soaps in them. There are certain fungi that attack bad nematodes, so boosting your soil fungal populations help as well (with chip bark, compost, worm castings). In the past I have planted Golden Guardian marigolds, which exude a toxin to these bad nematodes, and it has worked. You lose that garden space to the marigolds for a few months, but when you chop them down and turn them in, they keep working to eradicate root feeding nematodes. Adding beneficial nematodes helps with so many things, but not specifically predator nematodes. You'll be boosting your soil food web so it won't hurt to do it.
Hi, we have four horse trough planters infested with grubs and have purchased beneficial nematodes to deal with them. We'd like to use a 2 gallon water Erin get can to apply the nematode solution. Can you advise the amount of nematode material per 2 gallons. Many thanks!
Did your sprayer come with the correct size nozzels? I'm looking at the SOLO 425 (which I assume is the one you have) and can't find any mention of the nozzle size
I remember doing that search myself, and somewhere along the way I discovered that the brass-tipped nozzle that comes with the sprayer is the right mesh size.
Which model of Solo sprayer are you using? I want to purchase one and there are many to choose from. I have 8000 sq ft of lawn to apply nematodes to. Also, should I spray nematodes on the soil inside my greenhouse? I am growing tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and herbs in my greenhouse and have been having issues with whitefly, spider mites, and moth caterpillars. This year my greenhouse has gotten as high as 106F with both screened roof vents wide open, 2 fans running both 18 inches, but I had to leave the door open during the day to exhaust the heat out. One more question for you. I ordered my nematodes in June and they arrived near the end of July but we have been in a heat dome not having any rain since late June. We are under watering restrictions until September 30th and only allowed a 3 hour watering window from 6:00am until 9:00am once per week.It is now September 4th and my nematodes are still in my fridge on the bottom shelf in the coldest part in a sealed container. There was no expiration date on the packaging and it is now September 4th. Will my nematodes still be able to be used or did I waste my money by not anticipating the heat wave and extremely dry weather? Thanks for an excellent instructional video. I learned so much from you.
HI Doug, I'm using the 425 Solo 4-gallon sprayer. What you may have to do is divide your nematode package into batches to cover the whole area. Yes, spray them in your greenhouse too. You should use the package within 2 weeks of arrival, and apply them before sunrise or after sunset (probably your best bet). You may want to check to see if drip irrigation or food crops are exempt from your drought restrictions. That is the case in Los Angeles right now. In any case, put down about 3" of mulch and that will help keep the soil moist and cool for the nematodes when you apply them.
I did not find any research that supported that idea, but than again, giardia usually lives in intestines of animals and people, so that's where I'd focus.
These beneficial nematode species mentioned in this video target specific pests, so they are not hazardous to monarch caterpillars. This is mostly because the nematodes target insects and their larvae while they are pupating in the soil, which Monarchs do not do.
I've heard the nematodes are harmful to injest? I'm having a gnat issue in my vegetable garden and wanted to use nematodes in the soil. But wondering if it will be harmful if they were on my salad greens and eaten.
I don't recommend applying beneficial nematodes on vegetables or fruit on trees, only the soil surrounding the plants or on empty beds. It's best to treat for nematode issues before planting for the season.
Wonderful, are these beneficial for eliminating termites in the garden soil, which seem to be causing the grass to turn brown. Entomopathogenic Nematodes?
@@ClaireJ4 I know that nematodes, like any other soil microbe, will perish if the soil dries out. So it's important to keep the soil moist during and after application. I think the question to research here is "when do nematodes attack termites" or during what part of their lifecycle. That would determine whether you will need to apply more than once. For example, if they only eat eggs, then you'll miss the larvae and adults of the current infestation. But if these nematodes also attack adults as well, then you may only need to apply once.
@@Gardenerd my question was primarily about whether it's alright for the nematodes to multiply unchecked in the garden soil once termites are eliminated? Any insights on that will be helpful.
@@ClaireJ4 Ah, thanks for clarifying. I imagine they would move on to other prey, since they treat: "Armyworm, Black Cutworms, Black Vine Weevil, Blue Green Weevil, Chafers, Citrus Root Weevil, Citrus Weevil, Corn Earworm, Diaprepes Root Weevil, Greater Wax Moth, Green June Beetle, Hive Beetle, Indian Meal Moth, Japanese Beetle Grub, Masked Chafer, May/June Beetle, Mole Crickets, Pink Bollworm, Plum Curculio, Red Flour Beetle, Strawberry Weevil, and Subterranean Termites". So yes, it would be good to have them hang around after they are done with termites.
We bought some potting soil about 3 years ago (a well known brand) and we would up with small black flies infesting all the house plants. It appears they lay eggs in the wet soil then the larva mature and we get more flies. We haven't been successful in eliminating them. Would nematodes help?
Yes! Steinernema felteae applied to the soil will help reduce the population. Also letting the soil dry down will help. Water from the bottom if you can, then the surface will dry out.
am dealing with so many problems with my strawberries yellowing. I have tried adding nutrients through foliar fertilizers and the yellowing seems to be getting worse. What can i do to eliminate and make my pants healthy again? Can these beneficial nematodes help?
Mary, sorry to hear about your strawberry troubles. Yellowing usually indicates one of two things: overwatering (waterlogging/poor drainage) or not enough nitrogen. If you've already added sufficient nitrogen, you might want to check for leaks in your irrigation system or back off on watering. Sometimes yellowing can indicate not enough water, but that's usually accompanied by wilting and brown shriveling leaves. You may want to do a soil test (such as RapiTest) to see what your nitrogen levels are. Compost is surprisingly low in nitrogen so in many cases, additional granular organic fertilizer is needed. Also, check to make sure your strawberries aren't buried too deep. The crown should be above ground so that it doesn't rot. Planting too deep can cause stress on the plant. I hope this helps.
@@Gardenerd thanks for your advice. The process is starting with yellowing as seen with micronutrient deficiency i applied the elements but the problem wont stop. It has been raining on and off so watering i might have to recheck if its the one but when i uproot them, they have totally black roots. Am thinking that's the problem but i don't even know what organic solution to use, I wish i could attach a photo here
@@farmgrl Hmmm, black roots. That does sound like a possible waterlogging issue or some kind of soil pathogen. You can send a photo to askgardenerd at gardenerd dot com. If it's a pathogen, compost tea and nematodes may help, but I'm leaning more toward breaking up the soil for better drainage and testing the soil for nutrient deficiencies.
@@Gardenerd Okay thank you once again. I will send an image of the roots. I will also try soil testing. However, Just wondering, why would the strawberries have yellowing yet other crops like onions and spinach are still okay? In the same area btw
@@farmgrl Those crops all have different needs and tolerate moisture to different levels. Also some pathogens only attack certain species and leave others alone.
Apply nematodes when soil temperatures are warn enough (thawed and drained after winter) but not too hot. You can apply several times per year if needed. Before planting new crops if possible.
For some things, like grubs, it's good to apply several times per year in order to catch them during their feeding times of their lifecycle. Others, like leaf miners, can be applied whenever the issue appears. Even if you can only afford to apply 1x per year, it's beneficial.
Application time is key. Before sunrise of after sunset, so the leaves can stay wet as long as possible until they find shelter in cracks and crevices.
Instead just put a few drops of humic acids (available where you would buy compost tea supplies) in your water before mixing. That breaks the bonds of chlorine and makes the water usable for compost tea and other microbial applications.
My vessel holds 4 gallons of water, so I divided my nematode packages into thirds so I could use one packpack sprayer for three different areas. You need to calculate how much water you need to cover a specific area and then divide your nematodes between batches equally. I ended up using approximately a 1/2 TBS of each in each batch of 4 gallons (3 batches).
I don't know of any nematodes that target earwigs, but we like to put out a shallow bowl of olive oil and they drown in it. Replace the oil every couple days until the population decreases. Works great. Diatomaceous earth can also help.
I bought a packet of beneficial nematodes online and now all of my tomato plants are dying and the roots are being eaten by them. I guess they sent me the bad ones instead?
Wowzers, I've never heard of that happening. What brand? They should be shipped overnight and kept in the refrigerator in order to keep them viable. If you can post what type of nematodes you purchased and from whom, I can check it out.
@@Gardenerd I cannot guarantee that the nematodes I purchased were the culprits, but the timing is about right. All of my tomato plants in several of my garden beds have large tuber like roots and the plants suffer stunted growth and small fruit. I purchased off amazon and they took several days to be delivered.
@@SomewhatLazy Ah, I'm not familiar with that company, but can say that for root knot nematodes, I prefer to go in the direction of growing Golden Guardian Marigolds (Park's Seeds) over winter and turning them into the soil after 2-3 months. And if you're up for it, add shrimp shell meal (which offers a heavy dose of chitinase) to the soil. That got rid of the problem for me. Check out these other options from Arbico-Organics: www.arbico-organics.com/category/root-knot-nematodes-control
HI Paul! We put all the info for where we got the nematodes, backpack sprayer and other stuff in the description. But here's the part you're looking for: "We got our beneficial nematodes here: bit.ly/2PZgw3A "
If the pressure settings on your battery sprayer can be controlled, then yes, you can use one. But the hand pump is best because you can control how much pressure you apply to the tank. Reason being: too much pressure will shred the beneficial nematodes. That will defeat the purpose if they are destroyed during application.
It's important to know that there are about 400 types of nematodes. Some are good, some are bed. The good kind will fight off the bad kind. So keep that in mind as you learn more.
@@Gardenerd i have a lot to learn yes. But that plant and soil science degree makes it much easier to understand. I was in turf. Totally different approach. Yes you can call me Darth Vader
@@Gardenerd if the soil does not have what it had before we came here, we are dead. Everything is connected. Don't drink the koolaide and you'll be fine. 😉
@@raymondvaughn9723 Unfortunately the koolaid where I live has tap water with chloramine or chlorine, so beneficials in the soil is routinely killed off by that when we water. Depletion is real. Compaction is real, and these externalities affect the microbiome in the soil.
Based on my research your description of which nematodes kill which pests is not completely accurate. In particular you say H. Bacteriophora is good for ants. Most sources say otherwise and recommend S. Feltiae.
H. bacteriophora is listed as a treatment for ants by the folks at Arbico Organics, whereas they don't include ants on the list of pests that Steinernema feltiae treats. You can verify here www.arbico-organics.com/product/nemaseek-beneficial-nematodes-hb-heterorhabditis-bacteriophora/pest-solver-guide-ants
Starting with a reliable source is the key. Arbico Organics is reliable. I can't vouch for other distributors out there. Also, I have a microscope so I can check for mobility. :-)
Mosquitos are water-borne insects, so the best solution is to keep changing out standing water (for pets and birdbaths), and to add non-toxic Mosquito Dunks to your rain barrels or other standing water. It has Bt in it to kill the larvae.
Basically the instructions for distributing nematodes is to take your method of watering (Ie. the watering can) and fill it with water, then apply water alone to your planting area to see how much area that one can covers. Then multiply by how many watering cans it will take to cover the entire area. Then divide your nematodes by that many cans. Add the divided portion to each watering can to cover the entire area. So if you need one watering can for each horse trough, split your nematode package into 4 parts. Then use one part per watering can, per trough.
You're very lucky to be sourcing water from a well. We're primarily focused on urban gardening here at Gardenerd, so city dwellers are usually dealing with treated water of some kind. I know some folks on wells, and they also have to treat their water. But if you don't, great. All the better for those beneficial microbes.
@@allanplant8756 Hmmm, well it's always best to follow the instructions for the product you buy. The important thing is to apply them soon after delivery and at the right time - before sunrise or after sunset.
I don’t know if you still read these comments, but this was super helpful. I’ve watched other videos, and they either go too fast or they don’t give enough detail. One of them did a 2x speed walk through the garden instead of just showing her walking regular speed. Not helpful. I am a relatively new gardener who was forced to take care of the plants at my rental house. 😆 I struggled with thrips all last year, trying everything to get rid of them. To the point of making my roses look as unhealthy as the thrips did. This year I concentrated on using beneficial insects. Wow! What a difference. And I don’t have to spray a bunch of chemicals that don’t work anyway.
We read all the comments. So glad you found this helpful! This is exactly the kind of testimonial we like to hear, when folks find natural solutions that work better than "fighting nature". Enjoy your garden.
Great information! I have used beneficial nematodes before but I did not realize my water needed to be filtered. I love the back-pack sprayer, too. Thanks!
Very glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful!
Great video, you confirmed the process I plan to use next week. I have a Hudson diaphragm sprayer and, unfortunately, can't find the nozzle size nor find a replacement nozzle that is definitely 400 micron or larger. I'm treating .5 acres so hoping to figure this out before my nematodes (Arbico Triple Threat) arrive. I spoke with Arbico and they only told me to never use high pressure (>100psi) since that will tear apart the worms (these backpack sprayers won't reach those pressures but I guess a commercial device might). Hoping for fewer pests and more happy plants.
Can't figure how to mix n how in hose end sprayer... How much nematodes per gallon???
I'm a beginner organic gardener and this video has got me off to a good start. Thanks!
Awesome job explaining how and where to use different species of nematodes.... I have just started a living soil bed indoors. And to control fungus nats I'm adding them to the soil and cover crops. Wasn't sure how to apply them until now ty so much
You're very welcome! Good luck and keep us posted.
IMPORTANT - Nematodes are surprisingly large. Even many watering can roses will not have holes big enough to let them through. The minimum size of the holes (or your spray jet hole) is 400 microns, which is 0.4mm or 0.016 inches. When I used a standard watering can, I was surprised to find it kept completely clogging; nothing but a dribble coming out! Nematodes really are that big.
Thanks for the video
Yes, I don't remember whether I mention the importance of a 400 micron mesh sprayer or not in the video, but that is standard for microbial distribution.
@@Gardenerd yes, you did mention >400 microns, but microns aren't a measurement that many Gardeners will be familiar with. So I added the millimetres & inches equivalent. They really are much larger than people might suppose. I own several garden sprayers, none of which would work with Nematodes.
You might also like to clarify to your viewers why morning (or evening) application is important. As well as the need to keep the area moist after application.
Again, thanks for the video.
Well I learned something new today! Explained so well! Thank you!
Very excited to hear that! Thank you for watching!
Thank you!! I so needed this video! I just bought some beneficial nematodes and wanted to make sure I applied them correctly. 😀😀
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing this!
Understanding nematodes in this video. Thank you
Glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for watching!
I had always heard of nematodes for slugs in England, but not available in the US. I have a major slug problem and might have figured out a way around it. Some of the slugs have nematodes and the bacteria associated with it and I will be making my own nematode tea. Thanks for the video. It was great.
Thanks for this! I just bought them and hope it helps!
Don't forget to mix them in the sprayer regularly too so they all don't sit at the bottom :). I really loved this video and your presentation. Beautiful throughout.
Terrific instruction. Thank you!
Awesome intro. You had me at garden nerds. We no likey pupation. Steiner who?
Great video, thank you! I'll be releasing nematodes this evening. Using a 50 gallon drum of aerated dechlorinated water.
wow thanks! the neem oil hasn't been cutting it, and I'm afraid to use more for fear or disturbing the pollinators
That's why I'm going to use them this season.
I haven't used toxic chems and sprays for 3 years. It's been a constant "on guard" situation that route.
The nerdiness on these nematodes are amazing!
Thank you!
Inline KDF filters such as Boogie Blue Plus and Camco 52702 only remove 70% of chloramines. You can get rid of the remainder using sodium ascorbate or Vitamin C powder. 1/8 teaspoon per five gallons is enough to treat water that's been through a KDF filter. Also a good idea to check water temp before adding nematodes. I keep it very close to 60F. If it's too cold, I heat it up with a 600 watt immersion heater.
Great suggestions, thank you.
Hi - Great video! How do you keep the soil moist for a week after spraying? Do you mulch after, if so what mulch do you use? Also, I notice you use as foliar spray as well - are there any plants to avoid spraying like this? I am in Southern California zone 10b. Thank you!
Mulching is a great idea, and you can even apply the beneficial microbes on top of mulch. They work their way down below the mulch. I water bare soil for a week or so after by hand, with either collected rain water or filtered water (Hose end filters are available from folks like Boogie Brew). I don't avoid spraying any particular plants, it's more important what time of day/ temperatures you apply in than what you're spraying. As mentioned, before sunrise or after sundown is best, in cooler temperatures. If you are concerned about powdery mildew, morning is better. I hope this helps!
Very informative. I only wish I could buy a small amount as I've got 1 tomato plant and 3 cukes. Been ravaged by insects and already have had to replace the plants.
And you can leave water out overnight, and open to the air, to rid it of chlorine.
I highly recommend going in on a package of nematodes with a friend or two. It will defer the costs and you'll all benefit. And yes, chlorine will dissipate if you leave it out overnight, but many municipalities are treating with chloramine, not chlorine. Chloramine will not dissipate.
Thank you so much. Subscribed and liked.
I've just learned about using these little dudes to combat fleas which is just what I need!! I've had heavy rains in my area lately and so my question is would it be ok to use them during this wet season or wait until it's not raining as much?
It depends. If your soil is heavy clay and takes a long time to drain, then wait until the soil is more workable to apply beneficial nematodes. If it's sandy and drains well, apply while it's wet and that will help you keep the soil at the optimal moisture level for the nematodes.
@Gardenerd Got it, thanks for the info and the video!!
Thanks a lot, very informative and helpful.
How often would u need to treat the whole yard and the plants?
I hate how ugly my small citrus trees look due to leaf miners and treating them weekly isnt doable for me, I'd love to have a longer lasting solution.
Does it get washed away by rain?
Do nematodes have any negative effects on pollinators?
Tks for the great video!
Giordana, I treated my citrus trees once and that did the trick (it's been more than a year). The nematodes remain in the soil and on leaf surfaces and hopefully repopulate if conditions are good. They don't negatively affect pollinators since they don't seek out pollen or nectar themselves and don't live near those parts of the plant. It is a long-lasting solution.
@@Gardenerd Tk u very much for replying, will definitely give them a try! Happy to have found your video! God bless you!🙏
great video, thank you! I am assuming all Solo backpack sprayers have the correct >400 microns on the nozzle? Do you leave in the nozzle filter or remove?
Solo has the right micron mesh in the nozzle, from what I could find in my research. I leave it as is an use it that way. From the results I've seen on my crops, it's working properly.
I needed to know how many nematodes you had in the sprayer.like how much per gallon/ 1000ft² roughly.
I understand that filtered water is needed when mixing and applying to make sure you don't damage the nematodes, will watering later kill them? From automatic sprinklers and such ?
Municipal water is either chlorinated or chloraminated, so there will be some loss of microbial life. But if you can wait at least a day or so before watering, time it out that way.
I just received my 3 different nematodes five days ago and have them in the fridge. I know they only last 14 days so I have to get out there. My question is, I need to fertilize my garden (organically fish emulsion), but I’m afraid it will hurt the nematodes. How long do I wait after I spray the nematodes, to be able to fertilize? Thanks so much!!!!!!!!
Fish emulsion shouldn't cause any distress to your nematodes (I think this because people use fish hydrolysate when brewing compost tea and there are often nematodes in there). I you apply your fertilizer now, then apply your nematodes tomorrow, or vice versa, that should be enough time for things to settle between applications. You're feeding microbes with the fish emulsion as much as your plants, so it's all good.
@@Gardenerd thank you so much fir such a quick response!! I will be planting my tomatoes tomorrow with fertilizer (fish). Thank you so much, I was so worried about this.
Thanks for this. I read that you're supposed to apply them a second time after 7-10 days. Do you know if that means I need to purchase a second order of them? I'm assuming I shouldn't be dividing up the first order into two parts and saving the second half for a week, right?
Some biological products can be stored in the fridge for a week, so it is possible to divide them into batches. Read the care instructions for your product carefully before doing that and give the manufacturer a call to inquire if it's not clear on the instructions.
If you have a thick layer of mulch on top of your soil, can you just spray the nematodes right onto the mulch or do you recommend removing the mulch and spraying directly onto the soil?
You can apply it to the mulch if it's too much trouble to move it. They will work their way down.
Very informative video! Thank you! I have a bad infestation of Asiatic beetles in my 1500 sq ft garden of catmint, geraniums, Black-eyed Susan's and pink drift roses. I plucked off 33 beetles last night in less than 20 minutes. My plants are dying. Several catmint have totally dried out and more on the way. Do the grubs do irreversible damage? Wondering if my half dead plants will come back in the spring but not sure if the roots are too damaged.
If there is enough of the root system left the roots will generate new offshoots, but it's hard to tell. Keep an eye on them and look for new growth. It might help to prune back the plants a little, as that usually triggers root development.
@@Gardenerd Thank you!
@@Gardenerd I just read that nematodes eat boxwood roots. I have green velvet boxwoods next to all of the plants under beetle attack. Will the nematodes you recommend eat my boxwood roots too?
@@tawc So there are many types of nematodes. Some are root-feeding, others are beneficial. The beneficial nematodes will not target your roots.
Super video! Thank you!
Question, you sprayed on plants and trees…you mentioned that you need to keep the soil moist for a week. Is that the same for the tree and plant leaves as well! Thank you as I’m just learning regarding nematodes 🙃
You don't need to keep the leaf surfaces wet. Nematodes only have one place to go when they hit leaf surfaces so they will burrow inside or do the job of attacking whatever critters are on there right away. The soil-applied nematodes will do more long-lasting work if the soil is kept moist (hospitable for them).
I am so grateful for this video, we have been dealing with fleas every year in our yard AND house every summer for two years without any pets! (My son and I basically get eaten alive.) we don’t plant any food but would you recommend we use all 3 nematodes?
You also mentioned it’s important to spray at specific times, what are those times? Thanks!!
If you visit the Arbico Organics website and search for fleas you'll see which nematodes are best for those. You may only need one or two. Nematodes are best applied before sunrise or after sunset.
@@Gardenerd thank you, I will be buying my nematodes this week- I called and they said i had to wait until the weather warmed up above 40 degrees overnight or the nematodes would die. What water filter do you recommend?
@@italivireboreda9847 We have one here from Boogie Brew. Works great and is inexpensive.
this is great info, thank you! Quick question, would i be right in saying that Beneficial nematodes Heterorhabditis bacteriophora would be my best bet to treat a tree which has termites?
From what I can tell, Steinernema Riobrave is a better choice.
cheers thanks for that :) @@Gardenerd
Can they be applied to decomposed granite? I have a small patio yard. I finally realized that my dogs are constantly getting bit by ants and possibly fleas even tho they are protected with flea preventative. It's not stopping them from getting bit.
Hmmm, DG isn't the best habitat for beneficial microbes, especially if it has stabilizer in it. I'm not sure that they can survive or drill down to soil below it. If you can excavate down to soil and apply it there, that would be better. Or apply nearby in soil surrounding the DG.
Question after spraying my vegetable garden with nematodes, how do you properly clean the sprayer. I want to make sure all nematodes are out of the container.
I usually add a gallon of water, re-pressurize and spray something that needs water to clear the nozzle. Then swirl and dump the rest in the tank. I don't use soaps because I don't want any residues the next time I use it. But I suppose you could do that too.
Do you need to pull back mulch and apply directly to soil for ornamental plants? I am looking to treat Viburnum Borers with Heterorhabditis bacteriophora.
You can apply it over the mulch, but it's not too much trouble to pull the mulch away, I'd do that. Then the mulch will provide some shelter and cooling until the nematodes can work their way down to the deeper soil.
I am in N TX and have fleas and fire ants galore this year after a very wet spring. Now it is scorching hot. In your opinion, is it better to wait until fall to treat with the triple threat or go ahead and treat now (as soon as they are back in stock and ship) and do my best to keep the ground moist? I don't want to just throw away my money. Also, would I treat the whole yard (just under an acre) or focus on the areas where my dog spends the most time and my garden beds? This was an excellent video BTW. Great info and succinct.
J Mach - it depends on whether you get freezing temperatures in fall/winter. The folks at Arbico Organics recommend applying during either spring or fall, but if winter temperatures are harsh, you may significantly decrease the population of the nematodes. So you may need to apply again in spring. So check your hardiness zone for typical low temps during fall/winter and gauge from there. I'd say apply in fall and again in spring.
I am in Central Texas, and was a little bit worried about how the heat would affect my application… I wonder if that might be what the question was about : instead of cool temperatures, hot temperatures? I would love to hear if I’m about to fry my poor little beneficial nematodes as I apply then in the evening, as is recommended on the bottle, at 91°. I am hoping to kill off all the ants in my garden that are currently trying to eat everything in sight, including me… thank you!
@@jenniferpangelinan2667 Thanks for your question. It's not so much heat as it is sunlight that can kill off these nematodes during the daytime. Remember, they can exist in soil temperatures in a compost bin up to 95ºF. They may not be as effective, but they are still working. Your idea to apply at night is a good one. Consider applying shade cloth for a few days if you can (if you are applying to leaf surfaces).
I noticed that my garden has grubs in the soil so I applied some nematodes last night but want to get some earthworm for the garden. Do you think this will be an issue? will the earthworm eat all the nematodes?
Interesting question. They don't interact too much. Earthworms eat decaying matter (actually they eat the bacteria that colonize on decaying matter), and nematodes eat other stuff like insects and other nematodes but not earthworms. You're all good.
New to the channel and love it! ❤
Welcome!
Hello , dose this nematodes help in the bad nematodes ? I have a berry tree infected by harmful nematodes
Generally speaking, most organic remedies for parasitic and root feeding nematodes include crab meal (chitinase), neem oil, and treatments with soaps in them. There are certain fungi that attack bad nematodes, so boosting your soil fungal populations help as well (with chip bark, compost, worm castings). In the past I have planted Golden Guardian marigolds, which exude a toxin to these bad nematodes, and it has worked. You lose that garden space to the marigolds for a few months, but when you chop them down and turn them in, they keep working to eradicate root feeding nematodes. Adding beneficial nematodes helps with so many things, but not specifically predator nematodes. You'll be boosting your soil food web so it won't hurt to do it.
Which type of nematode would you use to control masked chafer larvae (grubs)? Or should I use all 3 varieties like you did?
Hb & Sr (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora and steinernema riobrave) both treat chafer larvae. So you could use one or both of them.
Hi, we have four horse trough planters infested with grubs and have purchased beneficial nematodes to deal with them. We'd like to use a 2 gallon water Erin get can to apply the nematode solution. Can you advise the amount of nematode material per 2 gallons. Many thanks!
water amount is not critical. You just enough to cover the area to be sprayed
Did your sprayer come with the correct size nozzels? I'm looking at the SOLO 425 (which I assume is the one you have) and can't find any mention of the nozzle size
I remember doing that search myself, and somewhere along the way I discovered that the brass-tipped nozzle that comes with the sprayer is the right mesh size.
@@Gardenerd Thank you!
How do nematodes interact with bed worms? I have some in-ground worm composters from vego garden, will the nematodes kill the worms?
Different nematodes target different species of insect and microbe, but they do not target earthworms.
Which model of Solo sprayer are you using? I want to purchase one and there are many to choose from. I have 8000 sq ft of lawn to apply nematodes to. Also, should I spray nematodes on the soil inside my greenhouse? I am growing tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and herbs in my greenhouse and have been having issues with whitefly, spider mites, and moth caterpillars. This year my greenhouse has gotten as high as 106F with both screened roof vents wide open, 2 fans running both 18 inches, but I had to leave the door open during the day to exhaust the heat out.
One more question for you. I ordered my nematodes in June and they arrived near the end of July but we have been in a heat dome not having any rain since late June. We are under watering restrictions until September 30th and only allowed a 3 hour watering window from 6:00am until 9:00am once per week.It is now September 4th and my nematodes are still in my fridge on the bottom shelf in the coldest part in a sealed container. There was no expiration date on the packaging and it is now September 4th. Will my nematodes still be able to be used or did I waste my money by not anticipating the heat wave and extremely dry weather? Thanks for an excellent instructional video. I learned so much from you.
HI Doug, I'm using the 425 Solo 4-gallon sprayer. What you may have to do is divide your nematode package into batches to cover the whole area. Yes, spray them in your greenhouse too. You should use the package within 2 weeks of arrival, and apply them before sunrise or after sunset (probably your best bet). You may want to check to see if drip irrigation or food crops are exempt from your drought restrictions. That is the case in Los Angeles right now. In any case, put down about 3" of mulch and that will help keep the soil moist and cool for the nematodes when you apply them.
They're supposed to be stored in the fridge, unopened, for no longer than two weeks. www.arbico-organics.com/category/beneficial-nematodes-faqs
Do nematodes kill termite
If yes which type is best suited for termites ??
Steinernema riobrave work on subterranean termites.
I always heard that nematodes are sensitive to sunlight. I always spray mine after sundown.
That's perfect. Predawn also gives them enough time to take cover before the sun comes out.
Does it kill giardia? My yard is only dirt and we are struggling with getting rid of giardia.
I did not find any research that supported that idea, but than again, giardia usually lives in intestines of animals and people, so that's where I'd focus.
Will these be safe on your milkweed plants? After all Monarchs are insects. Milkweed attracts aphids which are very aggressive.
These beneficial nematode species mentioned in this video target specific pests, so they are not hazardous to monarch caterpillars. This is mostly because the nematodes target insects and their larvae while they are pupating in the soil, which Monarchs do not do.
I've heard the nematodes are harmful to injest? I'm having a gnat issue in my vegetable garden and wanted to use nematodes in the soil. But wondering if it will be harmful if they were on my salad greens and eaten.
I don't recommend applying beneficial nematodes on vegetables or fruit on trees, only the soil surrounding the plants or on empty beds. It's best to treat for nematode issues before planting for the season.
Wonderful, are these beneficial for eliminating termites in the garden soil, which seem to be causing the grass to turn brown. Entomopathogenic Nematodes?
Apparently Steinernema riobrave nematodes treat subterranean termites. Give those a try.
@@Gardenerd Thank you, do these nematodes have a life cycle? Do they perish after a while or move onto other land pieces looking for food underneath?
@@ClaireJ4 I know that nematodes, like any other soil microbe, will perish if the soil dries out. So it's important to keep the soil moist during and after application. I think the question to research here is "when do nematodes attack termites" or during what part of their lifecycle. That would determine whether you will need to apply more than once. For example, if they only eat eggs, then you'll miss the larvae and adults of the current infestation. But if these nematodes also attack adults as well, then you may only need to apply once.
@@Gardenerd my question was primarily about whether it's alright for the nematodes to multiply unchecked in the garden soil once termites are eliminated? Any insights on that will be helpful.
@@ClaireJ4 Ah, thanks for clarifying. I imagine they would move on to other prey, since they treat: "Armyworm, Black Cutworms, Black Vine Weevil, Blue Green Weevil, Chafers, Citrus Root Weevil, Citrus Weevil, Corn Earworm, Diaprepes Root Weevil, Greater Wax Moth, Green June Beetle, Hive Beetle, Indian Meal Moth, Japanese Beetle Grub, Masked Chafer, May/June Beetle, Mole Crickets, Pink Bollworm, Plum Curculio, Red Flour Beetle, Strawberry Weevil, and Subterranean Termites". So yes, it would be good to have them hang around after they are done with termites.
We bought some potting soil about 3 years ago (a well known brand) and we would up with small black flies infesting all the house plants. It appears they lay eggs in the wet soil then the larva mature and we get more flies. We haven't been successful in eliminating them. Would nematodes help?
Yes! Steinernema felteae applied to the soil will help reduce the population. Also letting the soil dry down will help. Water from the bottom if you can, then the surface will dry out.
am dealing with so many problems with my strawberries yellowing. I have tried adding nutrients through foliar fertilizers and the yellowing seems to be getting worse. What can i do to eliminate and make my pants healthy again? Can these beneficial nematodes help?
Mary, sorry to hear about your strawberry troubles. Yellowing usually indicates one of two things: overwatering (waterlogging/poor drainage) or not enough nitrogen. If you've already added sufficient nitrogen, you might want to check for leaks in your irrigation system or back off on watering. Sometimes yellowing can indicate not enough water, but that's usually accompanied by wilting and brown shriveling leaves. You may want to do a soil test (such as RapiTest) to see what your nitrogen levels are. Compost is surprisingly low in nitrogen so in many cases, additional granular organic fertilizer is needed. Also, check to make sure your strawberries aren't buried too deep. The crown should be above ground so that it doesn't rot. Planting too deep can cause stress on the plant. I hope this helps.
@@Gardenerd thanks for your advice. The process is starting with yellowing as seen with micronutrient deficiency i applied the elements but the problem wont stop. It has been raining on and off so watering i might have to recheck if its the one but when i uproot them, they have totally black roots. Am thinking that's the problem but i don't even know what organic solution to use, I wish i could attach a photo here
@@farmgrl Hmmm, black roots. That does sound like a possible waterlogging issue or some kind of soil pathogen. You can send a photo to askgardenerd at gardenerd dot com. If it's a pathogen, compost tea and nematodes may help, but I'm leaning more toward breaking up the soil for better drainage and testing the soil for nutrient deficiencies.
@@Gardenerd Okay thank you once again. I will send an image of the roots. I will also try soil testing. However, Just wondering, why would the strawberries have yellowing yet other crops like onions and spinach are still okay? In the same area btw
@@farmgrl Those crops all have different needs and tolerate moisture to different levels. Also some pathogens only attack certain species and leave others alone.
Will they help with squash vine borers?
Steinernema carpocapsae & Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematodes will help eliminate pupae in the soil prior to planting squash.
But what time of year do you spray?
Apply nematodes when soil temperatures are warn enough (thawed and drained after winter) but not too hot. You can apply several times per year if needed. Before planting new crops if possible.
How often do you apply nematodes? Is this a yearly thing or more frequent?
For some things, like grubs, it's good to apply several times per year in order to catch them during their feeding times of their lifecycle. Others, like leaf miners, can be applied whenever the issue appears. Even if you can only afford to apply 1x per year, it's beneficial.
If they require a moist environment, then why don't they perish when used as a foliar spray?
Application time is key. Before sunrise of after sunset, so the leaves can stay wet as long as possible until they find shelter in cracks and crevices.
Thnx for the info! Where do I get my GardenNerd Card? He he he 😂 the Journey of Discovery continues
You are giving me ideas, Glockasaurus Wrex.
@@Gardenerd it works both ways apparently 😊
Neem uh tode that’s how I say it and I’m sticking to it lol
Same lmao
I think my culinary water has chlorine, will distilled water work?
Instead just put a few drops of humic acids (available where you would buy compost tea supplies) in your water before mixing. That breaks the bonds of chlorine and makes the water usable for compost tea and other microbial applications.
Can you spray the stuff on your pets so that way they don't bring in fleas or any other insects??
I'm going to say that's a hard no. It's only for plants and soil.
where do you buy these?
Arbico Organics is one trusted supplier. There are others too.
Did you say 1/2 tb to 5 gallon?
My vessel holds 4 gallons of water, so I divided my nematode packages into thirds so I could use one packpack sprayer for three different areas. You need to calculate how much water you need to cover a specific area and then divide your nematodes between batches equally. I ended up using approximately a 1/2 TBS of each in each batch of 4 gallons (3 batches).
You know anything good from earwig bugs?
I don't know of any nematodes that target earwigs, but we like to put out a shallow bowl of olive oil and they drown in it. Replace the oil every couple days until the population decreases. Works great. Diatomaceous earth can also help.
I bought a packet of beneficial nematodes online and now all of my tomato plants are dying and the roots are being eaten by them. I guess they sent me the bad ones instead?
Wowzers, I've never heard of that happening. What brand? They should be shipped overnight and kept in the refrigerator in order to keep them viable. If you can post what type of nematodes you purchased and from whom, I can check it out.
@@Gardenerd I cannot guarantee that the nematodes I purchased were the culprits, but the timing is about right. All of my tomato plants in several of my garden beds have large tuber like roots and the plants suffer stunted growth and small fruit. I purchased off amazon and they took several days to be delivered.
@@SomewhatLazy Ah, I'm not familiar with that company, but can say that for root knot nematodes, I prefer to go in the direction of growing Golden Guardian Marigolds (Park's Seeds) over winter and turning them into the soil after 2-3 months. And if you're up for it, add shrimp shell meal (which offers a heavy dose of chitinase) to the soil. That got rid of the problem for me. Check out these other options from Arbico-Organics: www.arbico-organics.com/category/root-knot-nematodes-control
can beneficial nematodes kill all the life cycle of the ticks and fleas?
Steinernema carpocapsae targets fleas, and Steinernema feltiae & Heterorhabditis bacteriophora target ticks.
What a Novel and neat idea to use them to kill insects without Insecticide I also believe in using wasps to kill insects too.
Yes! Parasitic wasps are my favorites. Glad you enjoyed this video.
Where do you get a nematodes
HI Paul! We put all the info for where we got the nematodes, backpack sprayer and other stuff in the description. But here's the part you're looking for: "We got our beneficial nematodes here: bit.ly/2PZgw3A "
Just bought some cause I am having a bad time with thrips
Good on you! Keep us posted when you see how it goes.
Why you don't use battery sprayer? Hand pump isn't suitable.
If the pressure settings on your battery sprayer can be controlled, then yes, you can use one. But the hand pump is best because you can control how much pressure you apply to the tank. Reason being: too much pressure will shred the beneficial nematodes. That will defeat the purpose if they are destroyed during application.
@@Gardenerd Wow you know some much! ❤️
@@DannyTillotson Trial and error, Danny, mostly error. 🙂
Hey nice lady i want you to know Bayer Corp. Is right under your video sharing how nematodes are bad. Hilarious. Great vid
It's important to know that there are about 400 types of nematodes. Some are good, some are bed. The good kind will fight off the bad kind. So keep that in mind as you learn more.
@@Gardenerd i have a lot to learn yes. But that plant and soil science degree makes it much easier to understand. I was in turf. Totally different approach. Yes you can call me Darth Vader
@@raymondvaughn9723 Ah, great! I think those two approaches will be coming closer together soon. It's always about the soil.
@@Gardenerd if the soil does not have what it had before we came here, we are dead. Everything is connected. Don't drink the koolaide and you'll be fine. 😉
@@raymondvaughn9723 Unfortunately the koolaid where I live has tap water with chloramine or chlorine, so beneficials in the soil is routinely killed off by that when we water. Depletion is real. Compaction is real, and these externalities affect the microbiome in the soil.
I was gonna ask if it’s safe if you have pets in the yard but I guess it’s ok because you have a cat walking around right as you apply it. 😄
Based on my research your description of which nematodes kill which pests is not completely accurate. In particular you say H. Bacteriophora is good for ants. Most sources say otherwise and recommend S. Feltiae.
H. bacteriophora is listed as a treatment for ants by the folks at Arbico Organics, whereas they don't include ants on the list of pests that Steinernema feltiae treats. You can verify here www.arbico-organics.com/product/nemaseek-beneficial-nematodes-hb-heterorhabditis-bacteriophora/pest-solver-guide-ants
They might work in a controlled environment like a greenhouse. Save your 💰✌️
I sprayed nematodes one time (one application) and haven't had any leaf miners since. Other clients have reported the same results.
how do you know if the nematodes are alive???
Starting with a reliable source is the key. Arbico Organics is reliable. I can't vouch for other distributors out there. Also, I have a microscope so I can check for mobility. :-)
@@Gardenerd thanks u
Have you tried homemade nematodes? Are they as effective or more effective?
While I do have a microscope, I don't have a degree in microscopy, so I prefer to leave the microbial breeding to professionals.
I thought they died f rom sun light??
This is why we apply before sunrise or after sunset.
Mosquitoes?
Mosquitos are water-borne insects, so the best solution is to keep changing out standing water (for pets and birdbaths), and to add non-toxic Mosquito Dunks to your rain barrels or other standing water. It has Bt in it to kill the larvae.
Typo...2 gallon watering can...
Basically the instructions for distributing nematodes is to take your method of watering (Ie. the watering can) and fill it with water, then apply water alone to your planting area to see how much area that one can covers. Then multiply by how many watering cans it will take to cover the entire area. Then divide your nematodes by that many cans. Add the divided portion to each watering can to cover the entire area. So if you need one watering can for each horse trough, split your nematode package into 4 parts. Then use one part per watering can, per trough.
I prefer unscrupulous nematodes.
😂
Cracking UP
Prolly bought the wrong nematode. My garden is ruined by gnats.
Steinernema feltiae are beneficial for fungus gnat issues. Partner that with sticky traps and your gnat population will go way down.
I am Mr Nimbus.
Strange you would assume nobody watching this would be getting their water from a well.
You're very lucky to be sourcing water from a well. We're primarily focused on urban gardening here at Gardenerd, so city dwellers are usually dealing with treated water of some kind. I know some folks on wells, and they also have to treat their water. But if you don't, great. All the better for those beneficial microbes.
I don't think you are supposed to keep your nematodes in the fridge. It will kill them. Keep them cool but not cold.
The instructions for the particular nematodes I purchased had instructions to keep them in the fridge for a maximum of 2 weeks. Safe until then.
Mine told me to not keep them in the fridge! ??
@@allanplant8756 Hmmm, well it's always best to follow the instructions for the product you buy. The important thing is to apply them soon after delivery and at the right time - before sunrise or after sunset.
and a bunch of other stuff ...loll
you may be wispering on the video but the volume on your post is SCREAMING