Well, it yields a mix-grit edge. There have been stones with mixed grits for quite a while (I have one myself - Gesshin Synthetic Natural) just the target audience was more the kitchen knife crowd. Plus natural sharpening stones are all mixed grit by nature. But this is indeed pushing this concept even further and also opens up more possibilities.
Hey guys, this is Gabe - I am commenting from a brand new TH-cam Channel launched to explore this possibility. I’m going to shoot a simple tutorial on my method - to be released this weekend. I’m hoping that it catches like wildfire from there and we can all push the limits of the toothy-polished dual-grit edge! I’ll have Pete link my video, stay tuned.
In Russia so called Gabe edge is known as Gypsy edge(I don't know why it is called Gypsy) and usually it was used to make crppy steel cut aggressively. These days, with the widespread use of high-vanadium or high-chromium steels, such sharpening method is no longer necessary.
S-tier thumbnail. You look like your about to drop a banger video about how your wife’s boyfriend beat Breath of the Wild with crazy speedrun strategies.
On the 6000 grit side does he go through the progression untill he gets to 6000 also do the arows dictate sharpening direction. I need to know. "Look of despair"
This is Gabe: sharpening instructional for the exact method used on this knife: th-cam.com/video/FruwVRSmhWA/w-d-xo.html Short, satisfying, opinion free edge performance test/demo of fine vs coarse vs dual grit: th-cam.com/video/cPUQ9lFdImc/w-d-xo.html
This is Gabe: Sharpening instructional for the exact method used on this knife: th-cam.com/video/FruwVRSmhWA/w-d-xo.html Short, satisfying, opinion free edge performance test/demo of fine vs coarse vs dual grit: th-cam.com/video/cPUQ9lFdImc/w-d-xo.html
Tried this technique out on an old Henkel knife with a very dull edge (unknown stainless steel) and a very dull Leatherman blade, just using a Worksharp field sharpener at the preset 20 degree angle. I did about 10 strokes on the coarsest plate, then did the other side with 10 strokes on the smooth ceramic. Stropped both sides equally. Both edges were able to slice free held paper towel easily, with less than 2 minutes of time investment. I asked a friend, untrained in sharpening, to try it on one of his gas station quality folders. Same results. This really seems to work, and doesn't take much expertise. I imagine if you alternate "rough" sides every sharpening, your bevels will stay fairly equal. Anyway, while I love super steels, and have many of them, I tried this method on mediocre to terrible steel and it gave great results.
I think Sal and Eric Glesser would contend that this mimics the advantages of a serrated edge, just on a very small scale. The 250-grit side is like the side that would have the serrations ground in.
Just wait until people start putting tiny "microscopic serrations" on their knife edge. I think that this knife sharpening can be taken WAY out of context & can be looked at WAY too deeply. And I'm a knife nerd, so that says a alot. Technically you have "ruined" or "changed" the geometry of your edge on a micro level with the very first cut after sharpening.
I have eclectic tastes and judging by your comments I might be one of the few that notices the constant JRPG music usage in your videos. If you noticed this or already knew, congrats you’re an awesome person. Thanks man, I feel like kindred spirits.
I really want to hear a LOT more about this sharpening method. First step will be to learn it yourself, so you can 1) repeat a test of the claims, and 2) DEMONSTRATE the technique so we can sharpen this way too.
I do knife snarpening on the side. Maybe 20 a week. Not a ton but I’ve done over a thousand. Mostly high end kitchen knives usually to razor sharp. But also every other type. I own half a dozen systems, trying out before I got great at stones, the best system for every day man is the work sharp guided sharpener and get the extra plates/strop plate. It’s like $35 or so. I’ve done hundreds of Knives on that thing and don’t need any replacements. It’s brilliant. I’ve got their expensive ken onion work sharp pro and rarely use it. Only if reshaping a knife. I will go back to this little plate sharpener. I wish they’d pay me for the plugs I give them. Stropping is the most underrated or under utilized thing for sharpening. I just made a dozen 8” x 3” strops using maple, veg tanned full grain leather.
I agree about the stropping. I'm a fanatic about it. I strop my knife at the end of the day, and I can go a crazy long time before I have to put steel to stones.
@@konnan216 I agree that the precision edge is a great system...but as of now the guided sharpener has a better grit progression...but all in it's nearly double the cost.
That’s passion :) thank you for holding the pencil drawing a few seconds. So I was able to screenshot and print it. I really like your little notes and explanations on it. The traceability was given for me by this sheet. I really do appreciate your scientific work and effort. Greetings Marcel
I Think this kind of concept for sharpening is one of the best.. Japanese knife makers did some similar sharpening on kitchen knives and they stay bloody sharp for long time.
I am going to try this out! I am amazed that this has not been tried before but it makes sense. My next sharpening task is going to get this edge! Very cool that Gabe did this and sent it to you and you tested it! Thanks so much!
I'm testing this now on my CPM3V bush knife and my S30V EDC user. I'm using 380 and 600 diamonds and 10000 stroping compound. So far..? Wow!! Thanks for coming back!
I think the reason this works as well as it does is that it sort of duplicates a "micro" version of a good serrated edge. Scallops on one side and flat to the edge on the other, like the classic "spyderedge" on a Spyderco.
There's obviously a lot of variables here, but your highest number on M4 steel 700 passes on a toothy finish. This would represent a roughly 40% increase over that score. M4 is known to prefer a toothy edge, but this is madness. If your New Zealander friend is the inventor of this method, he deserves an international holiday in his name.
I'm going to give this method a try. The knives I carry stay sharp for a very long time. (K390, Maxamet, ZDP189) It is super hard to notice a bump in performance. I really appreciate the effort to test and measure the results...
This is totally amazing. I can’t imagine how long it took him to, by trial and error, come up with this method. Not only that but the actual sharpening process itself likely takes a considerable amount of time. I wish I had the proper equipment because I would like to give it a trial…..
Two things come to mind here. 1. It’s possible it makes a difference right handed vs left handed. I know when I paper test often the edge is sharper on one side, depending on which side I end with on the strop (being lazy). 2. I find that different sharpeners, stones, systems etc work different for different blades and steels. I can get better results on one system with one knife but struggle with another for example. I dunno. I leave it at if it cuts it cuts.
Tried this on an s30v military at 17 degrees per side on a KME.140 grit on one side, 1500 on the other,stropped with 4 micron , .5, and .025 micron. Stroller thE 140 side only for burr removal. Edge was both fine and super bitey. Easily S-cute phonebook paper and is also super sticky. Thanks for letting us know about this and for all you do for us.
Did you do just one side with the 140 grit,, then flip the knife to do the other side with the 1500? Also, on the 1500 side, did you work through your stones up to 1500?
Thanks Gabe! everybody will be excited to see your method tutorial. Thanks for introducing it through this great channel.🙂👍thanks again, jas frm Aotearoa 🌏
For those that want to dabble in this idea, try using the sharpmaker with the diamond/cbn rod on one side and progressing up to the UF rod on the other.
For EDC the last few years I go somewhere between 220 or 320 grit for the full bevel, and make sure the edge is clean off those stones. Then I use a 16000 grit stone at a slightly higher angle to get the very apex with maybe 5 light passes per side. It leads to relatively nice push cutting (push cut phonebook paper easily) with the slicing aggression of the coarser grit.
I'd be curious if he'd let you KME them and test them again just for kicks and see how they do. Just thinking compare exact knives sharpened both ways.
One difficulty with this method on a KME would be getting the sides of the edge even with two stones that differ vastly in their speed of removing steel, would almost need to start with an asymmetrical edge, or use a loupe or something.
@@imsteevin I meant letting Pete even them back up to a regular edge he'd test to see how much better it actually performs on the same knives like when he did coarse and fine on the same knives.
@@macnitro902 in order to be a accurate of a test as possible you'd want to use the EXACT same knifes...because even two identical spyderco's could have incredibly minor differences resulting in different numbers. His initial tests were using the same steel yes but it wasnt even the same brand (steel will) and their heat treats are different etc...So I believe @Jesse Adams was just pointing out to get a truly (at least more) scientific result.
I wonder if the direction of the coarse grit vs fine grit (which one is angled toward the tip) has any meaningful difference for different kinds of cutting tasks.
Right after your previous video I sharpened a pairing knife using 45 microns on one side and 6 on the other followed by stropping. A crappy steel, it was sharper than ever as I use it every day. Not scientific (which your rope tests essentially are) but promising. One aspect of the slicing paper test (I use newsprint) is the sound. When blades become super sharp the cuts are virtually silent, a real tell. Anyhow, thanks for another worthwhile video.
Some theory here, as none of this sharpening theory can be proven...If a knife can be sharpened for a specific task at hand, what task was this knife sharpened for, cutting the rope, or cutting the paper? Perhaps the 1001 rope cut required SLIGHTLY more pressure than the 1001 cut of some other steel, but was too small of a difference to notice by hand. However, because the edge sharpening and geometry was more optimized for cutting paper, this edge gave different results. Hmm....I think I've wandered into the edge retention black hole of thought again...please help...
Well, the only way to find out is to try it yourself. This is Gabe, here is a short tutorial on how I sharpened the knives here, it's super easy to replicate, and you could test it any way you want: th-cam.com/video/FruwVRSmhWA/w-d-xo.html
I'm going to give this method a try. The knives I carry stay sharp for a very long time. (K390, Maxamet, ZDP189) It is super hard to notice a bump in performance. I really appreciate the effort to test and measure the results...
I would love, love, LOVE to see what the edge looked like when full sharp under a microscope, to see what the toothy-style edge actually looks like up close. And then for a bonus what the edge looks like after this rope-cutting test.
It is my theory that the polished side is like the chisel grind on a serrated edge, the coarse is obviously like the serrated side. I think the polished side supports the coarse side much like Spyderco,s serrated edges.
Try out k390 or rex45 with 400-600 on one side and 2000 grit on show side. K390 seems to really benefit from sharpening with this method. Looking forward to you experimenting with different steels, grits, angles using this method
Dear Pete, I've come up with a new sharpening method. You do one grit per 3/4". Give the entire edge a "striped" look. You also invert the grit on the other side of the blade for any given stripe. For example, this scale working like: "showside/lockside". My tip is 0.1u/100 grit, the belly begins at 1500/600, it continues to 1u/400 followed by 800/2200 and the heel of the knife is 100/0.1u. This creates a matrix of jagged hell that rips through material and actually grows sharper with use. This edge is best achieved with a Wicked Edge, since the stone width is close enough for "stripe" width. Can't wait for the video of you replicating it. I have a feeling it will be your big break. Cheers. 2,200 push cuts through the finest twisted sisal in the northern hemisphere and the edge was actually sharper then when I began.
Yeah, there's definitely something to this. I tried it, and I have some observations: 1. It's super fast to sharpen like this. From a non-paper cutting edge it took 3 minutes on s35vn to get scary sharp. 2. Strop the smooth side only, just wipe the rough side a couple of times to de-bur. And watch your angle on the strop. It's easy to mess the micro serrations up if you come from too high an angle, strop at the same angle you sharpened at. 3. The diagram at the end is, as far as I can tell, spot on with how it works. It's a micro serration that wears down slower than a mirror edge. But I don't know why. 4. Keep an eye on the edge centering, swap rough and smooth sides once in while. This is a monster edge, far sharper than anything I could hope to do in the amount of time it takes to do it.
Cedric!!! This is great! But you're making it sound like this sharpening method is more work to do. If I am understanding it correctly it takes half as long for me when I tried doing it. I just used a cheep old lansky sharpener and did coarse and 280 grit on both sides then just favored one side with the rest of my grits until I had that one side polished. Then I finished both sides with a leather strop and polishing compound to remove any burr. And if you are worried about the edge getting uneven wear then just favor the 250 side a bit more before starting on the other side with the higher grits. I did it this way and got a better edge than I normally get with my Lansky. And yeah, I don't think it's necessary to switch back and forth from one side to the other. Just get them both to 250 and blast the one side all biased like. Leave the 250 side behind and get back to it in the end with the leather strop. That worked for me any ways
Interesting results. I might try myself when I get a new diamond plate that is coarse enough. And you really need to build a work station that gives you a more ergonomic setup. My shoulders and arms hurt just from watching. Keep up the great work! 👍
I tried to approximate this sharpening scheme on my QSP Penguin with my Lansky ‘controlled angle’ system. Initially, I used the coarse (purple) diamond hone on the show side bevel at 20 degrees and went up the grits through the white ceramic hone on the other side. I stropped both sides with 0.5 micron diamond paste on a leather Lansky hone. The knife shaved hair and sliced newsprint paper but didn’t seem to slice wood (pine) as easily. Definitely more drag when whittling. So I took the show side bevel up a grit to the medium diamond (orange) hone and re-stropped. The knife then shaved hair easily and sliced pine well. I grabbed some corrugated cardboard and sliced off 30 pieces. Still shaved hair. Huh. Obviously I don’t have to take both sides of the knife up to the ultrafine grits to get a good sharp edge. This certainly simplifies sharpening. The Penguin is D2. I’ll have to experiment with some of my 440C Ganzo and 8CR knives to see what happens.
Try both sides at 240 then hone on a fine ceramic a dozen times. Coarse edges should cut rope longer than a keen edge. Edge “keenness” types need to match your task. Like racing tires or snow tires on a high performance car, it depends.
Yep, slice vs. push cut. Now, the question of how much a given person's typical use will lean one way or the other is something for us knife people to agonize over individually. jajajajaja
You must not have heard what the edge put on this knife was. Coarse on one side and fine on the other. I don’t think this guy needs advice from anyone on sharpening.
Gotta try on a few knives right away. DMT 325 or 220 on one, and ceramic 6-8000 on the other. I would assume that the micro serration works great for softer materials, but less ideal for harder cutting tasks. Once the serrations “break” my guess is that it’s then going faster downhill, than a dual super polished bevel. Lots of guessing. : D
Pete, how do you always post just as I'm sitting down for some grub? Yesterday's video was lovely with the jar of canned peaches. This one today is going to have to be pretty stellar to keep up with the sofrito beans and rice I've just whipped up, but about 2 minutes in I think you've done it man!
I sharpen by hand holding the stone in my left hand. I have always had crossed grain edges. Though I don't use different grits per side. I stopped doing razor buffed edges a long time ago because a buffed edge isn't useful for an EDC. A nice "butcher's edge" works for most things. Unless you want to carve wood or cut leather. They require a buffed razor edge. A scalpel is only about 600 grit.
Sounds like that method is creating micro-serrated edge. Neevesknives talked about it, that some steel perform better if you do them with for example 600grit stones instead of mirror polish, because the small "teeth" the coarser grits leave help the edge to bite into material.
I'm going to need to see if I can reproduce something similar to this on my Ken Onion WorkSharp. Might not get quite this kind of results, but it seems like it'd be a very utilitarian edge in so many ways, and utility it's my jam. Never did care about mirror edges of any of that.
If this becomes the new sharpening standard, we are going to have to all chip in for Pete's bionic replacement arms, because his will have been worn down to just painful nubs. My arthritis was screaming just from watching and I'm a good deal older than Pete. Still, I would really like to know more about this sharpening method, and ideally a tutorial. Maybe get Gabe himself on as a guest to show us and take a bow! Pete, if Gabe sends you a Maxamet knife to test, do it over a day or two!
This method of sharpening a blade has been around for centuries, sailor’s would sharpen their blades in a method called reverse blade. This was used to cut large rope lines before the advent of serrated blades. Reverse blade sharpening.
Excellent music choice for this epic video. Cheers for doing all this and yes we all look to you because you are pretty consistent with your methods and that’s what we like. Now go rest!
Wow, that hit the spot)) Wonder how maxamet and rex 121 would perform with the same type of an edge) Great to see new vids from you Pete, kind of missed ya, cheers mate.
@@johnscarborough4746 Yeah its looking to be about time he develops an automated version of the test to save himself from carpal tunnel .. I speak from experience he really needs to stop.
atomedge here. It's just a similar method of getting a "scary sharp" edge or sticky edge (Big serrations for slicing aggression made to a thinner apex by using a finer stone to thin the larger "teeth"). Picture giant serrations at the edge with micro serrations at the apexes of them. You'd be able to get this if you say, did a 400 degree edge at 15dps, raised the angle literally 1 degree per side on the KME then did 2 alternating passes a side with a 2000 grit stone, then stropped it a bit.
This may very well be a scientific breakthrough in the knife community
Right?
Couldn't agree more
Well, it yields a mix-grit edge. There have been stones with mixed grits for quite a while (I have one myself - Gesshin Synthetic Natural) just the target audience was more the kitchen knife crowd. Plus natural sharpening stones are all mixed grit by nature. But this is indeed pushing this concept even further and also opens up more possibilities.
Hey guys, this is Gabe - I am commenting from a brand new TH-cam Channel launched to explore this possibility. I’m going to shoot a simple tutorial on my method - to be released this weekend.
I’m hoping that it catches like wildfire from there and we can all push the limits of the toothy-polished dual-grit edge!
I’ll have Pete link my video, stay tuned.
@@homeslicesharpening I have never subbed to a channel with no content before, but there is always a first time.👍🏼
This Gabe edge is certainly not garb edge. I'll show myself out
No, please stay 😂
That you Shabazz?
@@stevenlachance8576 I'll take that as a massive compliment
Yup
In Russia so called Gabe edge is known as Gypsy edge(I don't know why it is called Gypsy) and usually it was used to make crppy steel cut aggressively. These days, with the widespread use of high-vanadium or high-chromium steels, such sharpening method is no longer necessary.
Thumbnail game on point
Just like a 'real' TH-camr my guy!
S-tier thumbnail. You look like your about to drop a banger video about how your wife’s boyfriend beat Breath of the Wild with crazy speedrun strategies.
*you’re
On the 6000 grit side does he go through the progression untill he gets to 6000 also do the arows dictate sharpening direction. I need to know. "Look of despair"
What is the angle?
Now we just need a tutorial on how to do it.
This is Gabe - I’m working on it now. I’ve just literally never made a Public TH-cam video...
Give me a couple days.
@@homeslicesharpening subscribed
This is Gabe: sharpening instructional for the exact method used on this knife:
th-cam.com/video/FruwVRSmhWA/w-d-xo.html
Short, satisfying, opinion free edge performance test/demo of fine vs coarse vs dual grit:
th-cam.com/video/cPUQ9lFdImc/w-d-xo.html
Now we need a video showing us how to sharpen like Gabe
Yep - I want more details!
Does Gabe have any videos?
Im in on that . I would love to see a gabe video aswell.
Hey guys, this is Gabe (for real) I am working on a series of tutorial videos - first releases to be posted this weekend. I’ll have Pete post a link.
@@homeslicesharpening This makes me very happy :)
This is Gabe:
Sharpening instructional for the exact method used on this knife:
th-cam.com/video/FruwVRSmhWA/w-d-xo.html
Short, satisfying, opinion free edge performance test/demo of fine vs coarse vs dual grit:
th-cam.com/video/cPUQ9lFdImc/w-d-xo.html
Some knife reviewers get their subscribers with antics.
This guy earns them with pain, suffering and invaluable info.
Mad respect.
I bet Gerald at outpost 76 would love to try this on his cardboard cutting.
Tried this technique out on an old Henkel knife with a very dull edge (unknown stainless steel) and a very dull Leatherman blade, just using a Worksharp field sharpener at the preset 20 degree angle. I did about 10 strokes on the coarsest plate, then did the other side with 10 strokes on the smooth ceramic. Stropped both sides equally. Both edges were able to slice free held paper towel easily, with less than 2 minutes of time investment.
I asked a friend, untrained in sharpening, to try it on one of his gas station quality folders. Same results. This really seems to work, and doesn't take much expertise. I imagine if you alternate "rough" sides every sharpening, your bevels will stay fairly equal.
Anyway, while I love super steels, and have many of them, I tried this method on mediocre to terrible steel and it gave great results.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. Exciting to have a new weapon in our sharpening knowledge bank.
I think Sal and Eric Glesser would contend that this mimics the advantages of a serrated edge, just on a very small scale. The 250-grit side is like the side that would have the serrations ground in.
yeah ! s110v needs low grit like that
Just wait until people start putting tiny "microscopic serrations" on their knife edge. I think that this knife sharpening can be taken WAY out of context & can be looked at WAY too deeply. And I'm a knife nerd, so that says a alot. Technically you have "ruined" or "changed" the geometry of your edge on a micro level with the very first cut after sharpening.
I have eclectic tastes and judging by your comments I might be one of the few that notices the constant JRPG music usage in your videos.
If you noticed this or already knew, congrats you’re an awesome person.
Thanks man, I feel like kindred spirits.
I really want to hear a LOT more about this sharpening method. First step will be to learn it yourself, so you can 1) repeat a test of the claims, and 2) DEMONSTRATE the technique so we can sharpen this way too.
I do knife snarpening on the side. Maybe 20 a week. Not a ton but I’ve done over a thousand. Mostly high end kitchen knives usually to razor sharp. But also every other type. I own half a dozen systems, trying out before I got great at stones, the best system for every day man is the work sharp guided sharpener and get the extra plates/strop plate. It’s like $35 or so. I’ve done hundreds of Knives on that thing and don’t need any replacements. It’s brilliant. I’ve got their expensive ken onion work sharp pro and rarely use it. Only if reshaping a knife. I will go back to this little plate sharpener. I wish they’d pay me for the plugs I give them. Stropping is the most underrated or under utilized thing for sharpening. I just made a dozen 8” x 3” strops using maple, veg tanned full grain leather.
I agree about the stropping. I'm a fanatic about it. I strop my knife at the end of the day, and I can go a crazy long time before I have to put steel to stones.
I think the worksharp precision sharpener is better and anyone even with 0 experience can get a super sharp edge since it's a fixed system.
@@konnan216 I agree that the precision edge is a great system...but as of now the guided sharpener has a better grit progression...but all in it's nearly double the cost.
That’s passion :) thank you for holding the pencil drawing a few seconds. So I was able to screenshot and print it. I really like your little notes and explanations on it. The traceability was given for me by this sheet. I really do appreciate your scientific work and effort. Greetings Marcel
I Think this kind of concept for sharpening is one of the best.. Japanese knife makers did some similar sharpening on kitchen knives and they stay bloody sharp for long time.
I am going to try this out! I am amazed that this has not been tried before but it makes sense. My next sharpening task is going to get this edge! Very cool that Gabe did this and sent it to you and you tested it! Thanks so much!
I'm testing this now on my CPM3V bush knife and my S30V EDC user.
I'm using 380 and 600 diamonds and 10000 stroping compound.
So far..? Wow!!
Thanks for coming back!
"Knife makers hate him with this simple trick "
' pussy ' cat and pizza thumbnail is dodgey AF!
I think the reason this works as well as it does is that it sort of duplicates a "micro" version of a good serrated edge. Scallops on one side and flat to the edge on the other, like the classic "spyderedge" on a Spyderco.
Love the data you present with documented facts it's GREAT.
There's obviously a lot of variables here, but your highest number on M4 steel 700 passes on a toothy finish. This would represent a roughly 40% increase over that score. M4 is known to prefer a toothy edge, but this is madness. If your New Zealander friend is the inventor of this method, he deserves an international holiday in his name.
This is so interesting. I’m gonna have to try this on my KME. Thanks for the great content.
Love the content! glad to see the Knife Lab up and running inn a Pandemic-proper method :-) thanks Pete!
Great as usual Pete. Love these tests. Don't know why. Just do. Now, where's my sharpening stones!
I'm going to give this method a try. The knives I carry stay sharp for a very long time. (K390, Maxamet, ZDP189) It is super hard to notice a bump in performance.
I really appreciate the effort to test and measure the results...
This is totally amazing. I can’t imagine how long it took him to, by trial and error, come up with this method. Not only that but the actual sharpening process itself likely takes a considerable amount of time. I wish I had the proper equipment because I would like to give it a trial…..
Ah man this is exciting stuff. Good on y’all Gabe and Pete! Music was on point my man
Man I love this channel. Great blend of comedy and facts.
There's another year of content right there 😁
Two things come to mind here. 1. It’s possible it makes a difference right handed vs left handed. I know when I paper test often the edge is sharper on one side, depending on which side I end with on the strop (being lazy). 2. I find that different sharpeners, stones, systems etc work different for different blades and steels. I can get better results on one system with one knife but struggle with another for example. I dunno. I leave it at if it cuts it cuts.
What? You're crazy!
@@latetodagame1892 nope
@@livingsurvival tell us more? How do you figure it works?
You have to get the guy to show us how he sharpened the thing. Thanks for going through the work!
Thank you for showing this method. Really neat.
Tried this on an s30v military at 17 degrees per side on a KME.140 grit on one side, 1500 on the other,stropped with 4 micron , .5, and .025 micron. Stroller thE 140 side only for burr removal. Edge was both fine and super bitey. Easily S-cute phonebook paper and is also super sticky. Thanks for letting us know about this and for all you do for us.
Did you do just one side with the 140 grit,, then flip the knife to do the other side with the 1500? Also, on the 1500 side, did you work through your stones up to 1500?
These 2 NZ Gabe knife data points are very intriguing! Going to attempt it on my Resilience, see if the ole 8Cr13MoV will see similar improvements.
Keep us in the loop brotha
Yeah thinking the same
If any steel can take it the 8cr13mov can!
Now that would be a very interesting test on that steel nice thinking @Paulo Correia very nice indeed 👍
Resilience is my official folding cooking knife.
Thanks Gabe! everybody will be excited to see your method tutorial. Thanks for introducing it through this great channel.🙂👍thanks again, jas frm Aotearoa 🌏
For those that want to dabble in this idea, try using the sharpmaker with the diamond/cbn rod on one side and progressing up to the UF rod on the other.
You will end up with a chisel edge with a micro bevel on the other side before you know it
@@MH-ls1xi not if you alternate between sides for the rough/smooth between every major sharpen
I'm gonna try brown on one side and fine on the other. Alternating directions.
This is brilliant 👍 I'd love to see a sharpening guide on this new technique!
For EDC the last few years I go somewhere between 220 or 320 grit for the full bevel, and make sure the edge is clean off those stones. Then I use a 16000 grit stone at a slightly higher angle to get the very apex with maybe 5 light passes per side. It leads to relatively nice push cutting (push cut phonebook paper easily) with the slicing aggression of the coarser grit.
I'd be curious if he'd let you KME them and test them again just for kicks and see how they do. Just thinking compare exact knives sharpened both ways.
One difficulty with this method on a KME would be getting the sides of the edge even with two stones that differ vastly in their speed of removing steel, would almost need to start with an asymmetrical edge, or use a loupe or something.
@@imsteevin I meant letting Pete even them back up to a regular edge he'd test to see how much better it actually performs on the same knives like when he did coarse and fine on the same knives.
He's tested the same steels before
@@macnitro902 in order to be a accurate of a test as possible you'd want to use the EXACT same knifes...because even two identical spyderco's could have incredibly minor differences resulting in different numbers. His initial tests were using the same steel yes but it wasnt even the same brand (steel will) and their heat treats are different etc...So I believe @Jesse Adams was just pointing out to get a truly (at least more) scientific result.
Please replicate with kme sharpening on Rex
I wonder if the direction of the coarse grit vs fine grit (which one is angled toward the tip) has any meaningful difference for different kinds of cutting tasks.
Right after your previous video I sharpened a pairing knife using 45 microns on one side and 6 on the other followed by stropping. A crappy steel, it was sharper than ever as I use it every day. Not scientific (which your rope tests essentially are) but promising.
One aspect of the slicing paper test (I use newsprint) is the sound. When blades become super sharp the cuts are virtually silent, a real tell. Anyhow, thanks for another worthwhile video.
This method has made my pm2 stay sharp for so long my mind is blown
Some theory here, as none of this sharpening theory can be proven...If a knife can be sharpened for a specific task at hand, what task was this knife sharpened for, cutting the rope, or cutting the paper? Perhaps the 1001 rope cut required SLIGHTLY more pressure than the 1001 cut of some other steel, but was too small of a difference to notice by hand. However, because the edge sharpening and geometry was more optimized for cutting paper, this edge gave different results. Hmm....I think I've wandered into the edge retention black hole of thought again...please help...
Well, the only way to find out is to try it yourself. This is Gabe, here is a short tutorial on how I sharpened the knives here, it's super easy to replicate, and you could test it any way you want:
th-cam.com/video/FruwVRSmhWA/w-d-xo.html
Hello there outdoors55..
Read the scienceofsharp blog and come to a conclussion yourself.
I'm going to give this method a try. The knives I carry stay sharp for a very long time. (K390, Maxamet, ZDP189) It is super hard to notice a bump in performance.
I really appreciate the effort to test and measure the results...
I would love, love, LOVE to see what the edge looked like when full sharp under a microscope, to see what the toothy-style edge actually looks like up close. And then for a bonus what the edge looks like after this rope-cutting test.
It is my theory that the polished side is like the chisel grind on a serrated edge, the coarse is obviously like the serrated side. I think the polished side supports the coarse side much like Spyderco,s serrated edges.
Gabe is like the final boss!
This is a Beautiful Thing; it makes me happy.
Try out k390 or rex45 with 400-600 on one side and 2000 grit on show side. K390 seems to really benefit from sharpening with this method. Looking forward to you experimenting with different steels, grits, angles using this method
Dear Pete, I've come up with a new sharpening method. You do one grit per 3/4". Give the entire edge a "striped" look. You also invert the grit on the other side of the blade for any given stripe. For example, this scale working like: "showside/lockside". My tip is 0.1u/100 grit, the belly begins at 1500/600, it continues to 1u/400 followed by 800/2200 and the heel of the knife is 100/0.1u. This creates a matrix of jagged hell that rips through material and actually grows sharper with use. This edge is best achieved with a Wicked Edge, since the stone width is close enough for "stripe" width. Can't wait for the video of you replicating it. I have a feeling it will be your big break. Cheers. 2,200 push cuts through the finest twisted sisal in the northern hemisphere and the edge was actually sharper then when I began.
Pete spoiling us with the frequent uploads
That method basically creates a micro serrated edge on one side. I do something similar to my edc's.
Have you seen the Horl 2 sharpening system. It's meant more for kitchen knives but does a 20°. Amazing planetary gear set inside.
Yeah, there's definitely something to this. I tried it, and I have some observations:
1. It's super fast to sharpen like this. From a non-paper cutting edge it took 3 minutes on s35vn to get scary sharp.
2. Strop the smooth side only, just wipe the rough side a couple of times to de-bur. And watch your angle on the strop. It's easy to mess the micro serrations up if you come from too high an angle, strop at the same angle you sharpened at.
3. The diagram at the end is, as far as I can tell, spot on with how it works. It's a micro serration that wears down slower than a mirror edge. But I don't know why.
4. Keep an eye on the edge centering, swap rough and smooth sides once in while.
This is a monster edge, far sharper than anything I could hope to do in the amount of time it takes to do it.
Great stuff! As always 👍😁🙏
It's amazing what you are willing to endure for your art !!
Cedric!!! This is great! But you're making it sound like this sharpening method is more work to do.
If I am understanding it correctly it takes half as long for me when I tried doing it.
I just used a cheep old lansky sharpener and did coarse and 280 grit on both sides then just favored one side with the rest of my grits until I had that one side polished. Then I finished both sides with a leather strop and polishing compound to remove any burr.
And if you are worried about the edge getting uneven wear then just favor the 250 side a bit more before starting on the other side with the higher grits.
I did it this way and got a better edge than I normally get with my Lansky.
And yeah, I don't think it's necessary to switch back and forth from one side to the other. Just get them both to 250 and blast the one side all biased like. Leave the 250 side behind and get back to it in the end with the leather strop.
That worked for me any ways
So when is the sharpen yourself a Gabe-edge video being released? Oh and your local ropedealer must be a wealthy man by now haha
Interesting results. I might try myself when I get a new diamond plate that is coarse enough.
And you really need to build a work station that gives you a more ergonomic setup. My shoulders and arms hurt just from watching.
Keep up the great work! 👍
I tried to approximate this sharpening scheme on my QSP Penguin with my Lansky ‘controlled angle’ system. Initially, I used the coarse (purple) diamond hone on the show side bevel at 20 degrees and went up the grits through the white ceramic hone on the other side. I stropped both sides with 0.5 micron diamond paste on a leather Lansky hone. The knife shaved hair and sliced newsprint paper but didn’t seem to slice wood (pine) as easily. Definitely more drag when whittling. So I took the show side bevel up a grit to the medium diamond (orange) hone and re-stropped. The knife then shaved hair easily and sliced pine well. I grabbed some corrugated cardboard and sliced off 30 pieces. Still shaved hair. Huh. Obviously I don’t have to take both sides of the knife up to the ultrafine grits to get a good sharp edge. This certainly simplifies sharpening. The Penguin is D2. I’ll have to experiment with some of my 440C Ganzo and 8CR knives to see what happens.
Man, love that sketch.
This is the best channel on youtube
Try both sides at 240 then hone on a fine ceramic a dozen times. Coarse edges should cut rope longer than a keen edge. Edge “keenness” types need to match your task. Like racing tires or snow tires on a high performance car, it depends.
Yep, slice vs. push cut. Now, the question of how much a given person's typical use will lean one way or the other is something for us knife people to agonize over individually. jajajajaja
You must not have heard what the edge put on this knife was. Coarse on one side and fine on the other. I don’t think this guy needs advice from anyone on sharpening.
Gotta try on a few knives right away.
DMT 325 or 220 on one, and ceramic 6-8000 on the other.
I would assume that the micro serration works great for softer materials, but less ideal for harder cutting tasks.
Once the serrations “break” my guess is that it’s then going faster downhill, than a dual super polished bevel.
Lots of guessing. : D
Looks like a really great edge have to try it out one day.
And just a warning
Don’t watch redo of healer
Need to try this on a standard steel like AUS-8 or D2 and see what kind of performance you can get.
Pete, how do you always post just as I'm sitting down for some grub? Yesterday's video was lovely with the jar of canned peaches. This one today is going to have to be pretty stellar to keep up with the sofrito beans and rice I've just whipped up, but about 2 minutes in I think you've done it man!
Damn imagine one of his edges on maxamet
I sharpen by hand holding the stone in my left hand. I have always had crossed grain edges. Though I don't use different grits per side. I stopped doing razor buffed edges a long time ago because a buffed edge isn't useful for an EDC. A nice "butcher's edge" works for most things. Unless you want to carve wood or cut leather. They require a buffed razor edge. A scalpel is only about 600 grit.
Sounds like that method is creating micro-serrated edge. Neevesknives talked about it, that some steel perform better if you do them with for example 600grit stones instead of mirror polish, because the small "teeth" the coarser grits leave help the edge to bite into material.
That's a great result for m4.
I'm going to need to see if I can reproduce something similar to this on my Ken Onion WorkSharp. Might not get quite this kind of results, but it seems like it'd be a very utilitarian edge in so many ways, and utility it's my jam. Never did care about mirror edges of any of that.
If this becomes the new sharpening standard, we are going to have to all chip in for Pete's bionic replacement arms, because his will have been worn down to just painful nubs. My arthritis was screaming just from watching and I'm a good deal older than Pete. Still, I would really like to know more about this sharpening method, and ideally a tutorial. Maybe get Gabe himself on as a guest to show us and take a bow!
Pete, if Gabe sends you a Maxamet knife to test, do it over a day or two!
Very very interesting 👍👍 thanks for sharing 👍🏼
This method of sharpening a blade has been around for centuries, sailor’s would sharpen their blades in a method called reverse blade. This was used to cut large rope lines before the advent of serrated blades. Reverse blade sharpening.
Excellent music choice for this epic video. Cheers for doing all this and yes we all look to you because you are pretty consistent with your methods and that’s what we like. Now go rest!
M4 about to get the clout it deserves
Gabe the edge wizard
GOOD JOB, NOW I MUST HAVE A COARSE DIAMOND STONE, now I wonder about VG-10, BD1N, XHP, etc
Would love to see an update on this edge!!!
You're a goofball and we love it!
Very interesting! Thanks!!
I would love to see some REM images of the edge. Sounds like a job for Larrin or Science of Sharp blog.
Thanks Pete, I really appreciate what you do for our community. But please take care of your hands that’s gotta hurt.
This was cool. Thanks.
Wow, that hit the spot)) Wonder how maxamet and rex 121 would perform with the same type of an edge) Great to see new vids from you Pete, kind of missed ya, cheers mate.
And s110v
I think it would be the last time we saw Pete doing anything for months after the repetitive motion injury he'd get from those two steels.
I'm going to try it with 4116 😁
@@bushcraftingmuslim Be interested in seeing if this method improves performance on softer steels.
@@johnscarborough4746 Yeah its looking to be about time he develops an automated version of the test to save himself from carpal tunnel ..
I speak from experience he really needs to stop.
When you slice paper to check progress.
Does it make any difference to cut with left to right and right to left?
Cheers
We've secretly rebladed these text knives with REX-121 to troll Pete. Let's see how long it takes him to notice.
Thanks for the 420 alert. I thought it was about time.
I have that M4 para 2! Best steel I've ever used, tougher than maxamet.
died on the ham cut lol
Very cool!!
Fantastic!
It makes me want to try this on my maxamet para 3
atomedge here. It's just a similar method of getting a "scary sharp" edge or sticky edge (Big serrations for slicing aggression made to a thinner apex by using a finer stone to thin the larger "teeth"). Picture giant serrations at the edge with micro serrations at the apexes of them. You'd be able to get this if you say, did a 400 degree edge at 15dps, raised the angle literally 1 degree per side on the KME then did 2 alternating passes a side with a 2000 grit stone, then stropped it a bit.
Very interesting, I’d love to know what the science behind this and why it’s making a pretty dramatic difference in performance!
it would be interesting to see how much this method could improve low end steels.
This is very impressive! Will give this a try....M.
Pete, maybe you should get some sort of twisted sisal rope hand crank feeder thing
I liked the explosion from cutting ham.
I am most courius if this sharpening method shows simmilar improvements on simpler steels like 1095 or O1.
I’ve been thinking most of the bgm in your vids was from chrono trigger but this one definitely is.