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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2020
- Bastien Gelinotte & Jon Murua
Grands Charmoz NW ridge
TD+ 6a+
Date: 5.7.2020
Video edit: Thelma Chavonnet: / tcbeautyx
Transcript:
Where is the boundary between technical mountaineering and pure rock climbing?
I'm not sure if there is an official definition, but I'd say that if crampons and ice axes need to be carried, then it's definitely mountaineering.
So, Grand Charmoz NW ridge is a pretty hard mountaineering route. It is not a 4 thousander, but the climbing level goes up to 6a+ or 5.10.
We climbed it on a day. On a long long day of 17 hours in total. It can be climbed much faster, but we had some issues route finding.
To safe some time and energy in the approach, we made a comfortable bivouac nearby. It was not a bad place at all!
We had an early start in the dark and at a pretty good rythmn, we jumped into the wrong attack gully.
We didn't know we were wrong until we reached the ridge and we realized we had some extra climbing to do.
Back at home, I studied the route we climbed and I couldn't find any references, so we probably opened a new route.
Being off route, in virgin terrain means that we can find unexpected difficulties and we need to improvise to progress.
- video of rappel
Soon we joined the original route and given the moderate difficulty of this section, we tried to go fast to win some time.
Every now and then we had to stop to read the topo to verify we were in the right path. It was pretty hard as there were no pitons or other distinctives marks and the Topo description was not clear. We went off route a couple of times climbing much harder than what we should have climbed, but eventually we reached the harder sections that had some pitons to show us the path.
Route finding became evident from there, but what wasn't evident was how to climb those pitches! There were plenty of physical boulder moves that felt hard with boots and the heavy backpack.
Climbing 6a with boots is not easy, but carrying the boots in the backpack to climb with climbing shoes is not easy either. I chose to climb with the boots as they are comfortable and the rock was appropriate.
This route involves an exposed pendulum traverse. What an ambience!
For the last couple of pitches I wore the climbing shoes to be more at easy and to climb faster.
The crux 6a+, the last pitch, stars with a pretty hard bouldery move followed by an exposed slab.
And this is were it happened...
- Video+photo stop of last move
This move caused me a pulley injury that took me off climbing for the rest of the summer.
Summit picture and we started descending quickly as we had about 3 hours of rappels to get to the base and another couple of hours walk to get to civilisation.
Music credits:
• Cjbeards - Fire and Th...
• ROYALTY FREE Travel Po...
• Freedom - Atch (No Cop...
• Triomphe - Peyruis (No...
Excellent route, and video as always. Ah, I see that it was the finger injury which was the reason behind the lack of an upload. That's a relief. Take care man, climb safe!
Thelma always puts together incredible videos! Thank you so much for sharing your adventure, but I’m sorry that you had that pull injury to your finger. It could’ve been much worse, like loosing your finger?
HI JON - I WATCH ALL YOUR GREAT MOVIES. THANKS FOR SHARE.
AFTER I SAW THIS MOVIE - I THINK I GONNA TELL YOU - THERE IS A POINT.
WATCH OUT FOR YOU. THE POINT IS CALLED BREAK EVEN. WE WANNA SEE MORE FROM YOU MANY YEARS ;-))
Buena actividad
Hola Jon! Para estas escaladas que tipo de cuerda, diametro y longitud sueles usar?
Gracias!
2x60m para hacer los rappels sin problemas. Solía usar cuerdas de 7.5mm, pero las encuentro demasiado finas para la roca y ahora uso 8.1mm. Siguen siendo muy finas, pero su ligereza con respeto a otras más gordas se hace notar al final del día
@@jonmurua gracias, tambien dudo mejor posibilidad para recorridos mas faciles de aristas, 2x30 doble, o una de 30 de triple homologacion + una de 30 de aramida para rapeles, una de 50 de triple... Una sola de 30 y un escaper.. 😭
Yo suelo llevar una simple (triple homologación) de 8.5mm y 50m para aristas, siempre y cuando esté seguro que los rappels son de 25m max.
Para uno o dos rappels el escaper o un rappel-line pueden valer, pero si hay muchos rappels a hacer, se pierde mucho tiempo y es más eficiente llevar cuerdas dobles.
A veces llevo 2x60 dobles, pero llevo una cuerda en la mochila (sólo para los rappels) y escalo con la otra, plegada por la mitad, a 30m