You have a Delphi ECU fitted to that model This engine ECU fitted to Ford Mondeo (Mk IV) and Ford Kuga (Mk II) diesel engines is a common failing module that will prevent cranking and start of the engine. When the ECU completely fails you will find that the engine management system fails to achieve communications with your diagnostic equipment. Instead there will be loss of communication fault codes from other electronic modules on the vehicle. Symptoms often begin intermittently with limp mode being activated, the vehicle cutting out and then being unable to restart. At this stage the Mondeo/Kuga ECU may store fault codes relating to sensor voltage references and ECM/PCM power relay de-energised performance. The message ‘Engine Malfunction’ may appear on the dash along with the illumination of the engine management warning light. This ECU failure not only affects Ford Mondeo and Kuga diesel models but also: C-Max, Focus, Galaxy and S-Max. You can send it to ECU testing Delves Rd Heanor Gate Ind Est, Heanor DE75 7SJ · 01773 535638 I use them all the time
Wiring diagram and a multimeter check the basics, power and ground modules offline are a dead giveaway. The fact it was intermittent after the change of the ignition suggests a short or damaged wire. And you will be amazed at how dependent systems are on each other, especially the a/c radio units in cars will cause major headaches
I'm not sure if they still share the same electronics on the 2013's but volvo v50 had the mark 2 focus underpinnings and where the passenger footwell is is the junction box, there known for either getting bashed about by passengers feet causing loose connections/moisture in them, they also have a paired board in there for that car it's called a central electronics module which is programmed to the car aswell as the fuse board, 9/10 it's moisture gets inside and plays havoc with the car. My old S40 would trigger the boot unlock with no presses then randomly refused to start one night, took the cem out took a pic of the fuse layout removed all fuses gave it a clean out let it sit overnight, replugged back in and had no issues started straight back up. Another thing is the ignitions like to play silly buggers i know there's a bypass switch you can get for the Volvos which eliminates the steering lock jamming on causing a no start due to lack of releasing the immobilizer but a simple way to check is to hit the ignition/steering lock to see if it does anything. Sorry for the long winded comment dude but been with volvos on the ford platform for nearly 5years now so know the common things to look out for in the electrical side of things.
@@JohnTaylor2015 yeah my mates S60 had that steering lock problem, absolute nightmare! I'm checked the BCM and that's fine... I'm angling towards the clocks with so many people saying it... Even though it doesn't make sense how it would stop working when the washer jets have been on
Remove instrument cluster and check the soldering as it is a common issue, I had this issue come up same engine malfunction warning and turned out to be the cluster. Also try a multimeter on your fuse box see if it’s getting power.
My mate had a 61 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI and his refused to start cause the exhaust gas temp sensor was reading incorrectly. He reset the values using ForScan and it fixed it
I’ve had this on many Fords, it’s due to the injectors unplug one at a time leave it unplugged and try and clear the codes and start it I guarantee you, it’s going to be one of them, maybe more
Had a same fault with a kuga it was a loose wire in the pin plug on the Ecu under the front wing if you get someone to move the wires at the ecu plugs it most likely start Cheers mate
@@StephenBrown-y1c ohh I'm glad you found the fault on yours. I've had an auto electrician out who checked the ECU connectors and wiring and he said it was all fine, sadly 😞
I have a Ford CMax that had similar weird issues. After lots of research found that my issue was the dashboard. The solder Ford use has a habit of failing. The easy thing to do is with a decent soldering iron, re solder all the contacts on the circuit board with lead solder and the problems go away. Apparently all CanBus runs through the dashboard hence a number of weird odb codes and running issues. Dont know if this will fix your issue, but it sorted mine and it’s been a-ok in the 5 years since.
Had this problem with mine turned out to be a fried ecu and then not long after replacing the ecu the instruments cluster went on it so a great opportunity for me to replace the clocks you have to the convers+ ones. After all this mines back to life. Breakdown to fix issue: Buy used ecu get keys recoded to ecu. Clocks fried get new convers+ clocks with lower miles than yours that way you can adjust them in forscan and you will need a mod to turn the airbag light off for mot.
The washer pump was doing the same as what yours is doing with a after market pump on it. Tried 2 after market pumps both failed then I bought a ford genuine pump that worked fine and still fine to this day. The pumps look the same but slightly longer on genuine pump connectors that's why your after market pump won't work properly.
@@GaryGrant-x5k I knew that bloody pump wasn't right like! Even though the seller said it was. Cheers for that mate, I honestly thought I was going mad over it lol
Look up pine hollows lots of useful info from Ivan . Iv learnt get yourself a test light and multi meter . Look up a wiring diagram with power distribution . And you will save yourself going down rabbit holes and spending money on the parts cannon . Personally if your getting no communication with the ecu . Check fee first . If power there check power and grounds at ecu . If no power there then it’s trace your power distribution between computer and fuse box . Could be a mumber of things bad ground , broken wire . But you need that diagram to progress . Good luck
@@lawrencesmith1952 ahh Cheers for that, I've got a multimeter and light tester thing but I'm not the best with either 😂 Cheers for an order in which to check it too
The bcm/gem is a gateway it communicates on all can systems , check the pin 6/14 grip in dlc and then do a comms resistance check at dlc 60 ohms for starters , forget the scanner until this is done,
i think its the bcm fried you changed the washer jet pump but the wire connector can get wet check the wire connector for the washer jet pump if glazy it got wet and needs replacing and the bcm as it sent shocks to it and basically killed it i hope you get it fixed bud keep us updated
I had the same exact issue on my 2011 mondeo estate which I still own. All I did was change the washer motor and when I was on motorway used rear washer and my car did that annoying tone all dash lights came up and engine died on motorway and all outside lights stuck on. Disconnect the battery reconnect it mines been fine since my mechanic said the water climbs up the inside of the wiring into bcm from washer motor check all your connections for a blue tinch from screen wash in your body control module it’s a known fault
Had one once that had no crank , locking issues and horn blaring. It was the fuse box motherboard under the glovebox. Moisture in the car makes the board corrode and cause multiple faults. A good clean of the board usually sorts it.
It looks to me when you're scanning the car if it's not communicating with any of the modules apart from the BCM you need to check your powers and grounds
The washer pump fails and washer fluid pushes out through the top where the plug is and the water travels through the wire and destroys the BCM. Yes it’s sounds mad but I’ve been there ! A used BCM with the same part number is plug and play even if the two letters at the end are different. New washer pump and BCM job done.
@@DoubleG79234 ohh are they? My BCM board is bone dry and when I changed the pump, it sent the car scatty for the wiper controls... That's very interesting about it being plug and play though, cheers!!
My Mondeo 2011 1.6 edge est 138.000om the clock fabulous car with no probs I'd definitely have another. for what's it going to cost just get it to a decent garage
@@stephenburgreave2525 where's the fun in that? Lol. Tbf, I would be scarred by what a garage would want to charge me for trying to find the fault since they'll check a lot of the things I've already checked... If you know what I mean
But why would it stop the immo from working... It just doesn't make sense, nothing with this bloody car makes sense! Lol. I think the scuttle panel is clear, but I'll have a look, cheers.
mate, this happened to my mondeo, water runs back up the wires from the wiper washer motor into the bcm, doesn't make sense because it Defys logic and gravity its common issue there's videos about it, you can easy fix it but cutting the cable and using basic connectors so the water has a break in the line, it's near impossible to spot as the water tracks inside the cable sheath, good luck mate
@@ste4414 it's such a stupid design/fault for when they happens. I'm not convinced it's that though because the BCM is perfectly dry with zero signs of corrosion... It's honestly batted my head!
@@andycook4164 you speak my language! Lol. I need to wait until it will randomly start again before I think seriously about getting shot of it... You could be right though
@@alanthomas8519 tbf, I did only check the motor and not the plug on the wiring... I'll give it a look over the next day or so, cheers. It's on my to do list.
I had this problem it was water ingress in the ecu i sent it to autotronics in leicester cost me £175.00 2 day turn around plugged it in started fist time.
@@CurrusOfSalvage it was on my transit van it was rain water getting into the ecu it's a major problem on fords since I sent it to autotronics leicester over 2 years ago it's been fine ,if they find your ecu has no faults you only pay for postage around £8.00 I would highly recommend them.
Mine exactly same problem as your car I found one black cable connect ground was snap so locator is driver side front seat under carpet near sill that cable for ground to bcm communication to immobilise to start engine.
@@robertbeattie9000 😲 how the hell did you find that!? That seems like an impossible problem to find! Lol. If that's the problem, how come it randomly starts at times? Mmmm
Just got to 28 minutes and you say the battery is low, that's know for throwing up all sorts of lights on the dash. Charge the battery and reset the battery monitoring system
ford use lead free solder which is rubbish in the clocks they need re soldering on the big chip that the main plug fits in to as said slap the top of the clock housing when it does it btw use lead solder if you can find it
This is more than likely a bcm fault, iv done a few of these as long as part numbers match will be plug and play, most commonly happens when the car has been stood for a while dont ask me why lol can always code features in using forscan etc
@@theskylinegtrrr I bought a forscan reader thing, but it wouldn't link up to the car but, that's when the car wouldn't start, like when the ECU wont communicate. I'll have to wait until it decides to work again before trying but yeah, I think it's the BCM module. I didn't know they were plug and play, that's very interesting to know! Cheers
As other people said have a look at the solder on the back of the clocks. There are loads ov videos on TH-cam about it. But mainly focus but they are the same style clocks. Think it’s a u1900 fault. Can bus failure. Hope you get it sorted m8.
@@wayneguilliatt4144 The Mondeo clocks are not the same as the focus clocks. Totally separate from the immobiliser. The mk4 Mondeo will start with any donor clocks but the mileage will carry over and read whatever is the mileage on the donor clocks.
though i have a fiesta seems like a fault i had not same but starting issue was with the board on the speedo to do with the imobalizer of 2 of the joints being dry would sometimes start sometimes be dead after soldering it works every time just a shot in the dark
@@scottfrancis1765 I am honestly shocked, at how many people have had this solder problem, across the Ford range(r), lol, sorry, couldn't help myself. Did you just whack a load of solder over everything on the board or did you strip it all clean?
you know that green plug you unplugged from the bcm i know you checked for dampness but check for corrosion in the pins if so it got wet from the washer jet leaking
It's not the washer bottle that cracks but the pump itself pushes screen wash up inside the wires into the BCM. If you pull the fuse board down which is below the glovebox look for the green connector. If screen wash is getting into the BCM then 2 pins will have corrosion. If there's any residue on the pins on the BCM then you'll probably need a 2nd hand unit
How much did that set you back? I would prefer to find a company local to the North East, that I could take it to, instead of posting it off somewhere...
@@eddieMurphy11111 that's how I could get it to start at first but now it's not starting from cycling through the gears, it'll only start after it's been left alone for a few weeks lol
Do your basics check with multimeter on fuse box . Ensure you get power where you should once done you can eliminate that . Check the BCM as most systems have connections with it through other systems. Looking for blue green marks in the connectors of the BCM and use electric contact cleaner . Water travels by capillary action along wires . If limescale on any module they need checking for water damage. You could try back probing connectors to find if they are getting right voltage and signals. What i suspect is you have a circuit that is shorted to ground (probably in one of the modules) this will pull other circuits down causing incorrect detection and activation of connections. Watch South Maine auto guy and Diagnose Dan. Remember break circuits down so you know where the problem starts good luck.
@@andrewfoster141 ohh I've never heard of either of those, I'll give them a watch, cheers. I think it was the wipers that was saying "ground to short" when I put my diagnostics on it... Don't suppose you have any idea where in the system that could possibly be?
@@jamesschannel1975 yeah I have mate but when it won't start, it won't communicate with the ECU so I can't read the fault... Which points towards the ECU being the fault?
@@CurrusOfSalvage I’m thinking you should cut your losses and either sell as salvage/scrap or on eBay as spares or repair as a non runner. I think you’ve opened up a can of expensive worms 😬
Have 2.2 titanium x sport my horn disables when i lock it twice alarm settings. Now gone completely 🤮 ones say its clock spring nothing up on computer. Used to got it on by double unlock .
@@lawrencesmith1952 nah mate, I've checked a fair few things from the suggestions, unfortunately the silly amount of rain delayed being able to check stuff.
Try hitting the top of the dash where the clocks are if it starts it will probably be a problem with the instrument cluster,my focus did exactly this,had to send the clocks off to be repaired
Charge the car battery so you haven't got voltage problems when checking. But think either the bcm has got water in at some point or it's your dash clocks
another test you can do take the black wire off the battery for 15 mins or so that will reset the ecu tighten the black back on battery this might help but you will been to set your clock i know least of your worrys lol the window will need to be learned again to go fully up with one click if that dont work with the battery wire and reset of the ecu as you said it could be ecu dead but the engine starts then stop so i cant see the ecu dead
@@jasonsumner1354 yeah I've tried that, cheers, that's why I need the code for the stereo, which I didn't think about 😅 my head's still thinking it's the BCM module and the wipers are messing it up...
@@CurrusOfSalvageyou'll need to take the stereo out to get the serial number, it's on the back of the stereo. It doesn't display the code on the screen
I can't help you sorry I'm in to older fords less electrical ones like my 2004 29000 full service history focus I would sell it on brake it sell the parts or scrap it as sounds like a massive nightmare and money pit if it's a common fault and no body can fix it even your dog is saying the same 😂🤣
I love the look of this car! Unfortunately here in the states we don’t have this. The closest is the hybrid fusion or fuel focus! And those dual clutch focus were trash! I had 2000/02/05/10 focus all in manual and loved them never any issues while mates had them in auto and had sooo many issues! Then I got the 2019 focus and Oh MY what a PILE OF TRASH
@@jessewynne8193 lol, I've actually owned every model of the Mondeo, apart from the new ones. I've always liked them but also been scared something like this would happen!
@CurrusOfSalvage I have one they are brilliant cars but they do have two issues which most people have pointed out on here. I checked my screen washer when I replaced the motor. Good luck with it my friend
I had the same exact issue on my 2011 mondeo estate which I still own. All I did was change the washer motor and when I was on motorway used rear washer and my car did that annoying tone all dash lights came up and engine died on motorway and all outside lights stuck on. Disconnect the battery reconnect it mines been fine since my mechanic said the water climbs up the inside of the wiring into bcm from washer motor check all your connections for a blue tinch from screen wash in your body control module it’s a known fault
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Thank you to everyone for the comments about possible fixes! It honestly means so much!
You have a Delphi ECU fitted to that model This engine ECU fitted to Ford Mondeo (Mk IV) and Ford Kuga (Mk II) diesel engines is a common failing module that will prevent cranking and start of the engine. When the ECU completely fails you will find that the engine management system fails to achieve communications with your diagnostic equipment. Instead there will be loss of communication fault codes from other electronic modules on the vehicle.
Symptoms often begin intermittently with limp mode being activated, the vehicle cutting out and then being unable to restart. At this stage the Mondeo/Kuga ECU may store fault codes relating to sensor voltage references and ECM/PCM power relay de-energised performance. The message ‘Engine Malfunction’ may appear on the dash along with the illumination of the engine management warning light.
This ECU failure not only affects Ford Mondeo and Kuga diesel models but also: C-Max, Focus, Galaxy and S-Max. You can send it to ECU testing Delves Rd Heanor Gate Ind Est, Heanor DE75 7SJ ·
01773 535638 I use them all the time
Check the bcm for water ingress from washer pump. Drop fuse box down in passenger footwell and unplug green connector
Maybe send the ecu or bcm of to a specialist to test it for you 👍
Wiring diagram and a multimeter check the basics, power and ground modules offline are a dead giveaway. The fact it was intermittent after the change of the ignition suggests a short or damaged wire. And you will be amazed at how dependent systems are on each other, especially the a/c radio units in cars will cause major headaches
@@StephenClarke-m6s I've had an auto electrician check all the wiring, he thinks it's either the coms wiring (which he doesn't do) or the ECU...
the engine malfunction etc plug in obd if no real codes etc it’s the clocks, same thing happens to the focus’s, so replace or re solder ect
I'm not sure if they still share the same electronics on the 2013's but volvo v50 had the mark 2 focus underpinnings and where the passenger footwell is is the junction box, there known for either getting bashed about by passengers feet causing loose connections/moisture in them, they also have a paired board in there for that car it's called a central electronics module which is programmed to the car aswell as the fuse board, 9/10 it's moisture gets inside and plays havoc with the car. My old S40 would trigger the boot unlock with no presses then randomly refused to start one night, took the cem out took a pic of the fuse layout removed all fuses gave it a clean out let it sit overnight, replugged back in and had no issues started straight back up. Another thing is the ignitions like to play silly buggers i know there's a bypass switch you can get for the Volvos which eliminates the steering lock jamming on causing a no start due to lack of releasing the immobilizer but a simple way to check is to hit the ignition/steering lock to see if it does anything. Sorry for the long winded comment dude but been with volvos on the ford platform for nearly 5years now so know the common things to look out for in the electrical side of things.
@@JohnTaylor2015 yeah my mates S60 had that steering lock problem, absolute nightmare! I'm checked the BCM and that's fine... I'm angling towards the clocks with so many people saying it... Even though it doesn't make sense how it would stop working when the washer jets have been on
Remove instrument cluster and check the soldering as it is a common issue, I had this issue come up same engine malfunction warning and turned out to be the cluster. Also try a multimeter on your fuse box see if it’s getting power.
Exactly what happened to mine,it's fixed now.
@@attilabalogh8548 did you repair the cluster or send it off to be repaired? Would a secondhand one sort it?
@@turbo3492 did you resolder it yourself?
@@CurrusOfSalvage Yes but you need a steady hand.
My mate had a 61 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI and his refused to start cause the exhaust gas temp sensor was reading incorrectly. He reset the values using ForScan and it fixed it
@@bobbytaylor3043 I swear cars are like snowflakes, they just get more sensitive! That's ridiculous, glad he sorted though.
@ it then started to refuse to go into 4th so he sold it on 😂
When it doesn't start slap the top of the dash above the clocks, if it then starts it's the clocks 👍 very common problem
@@grandad8753 tried... It seemed to make it work but after using the washer jets, it's stopped turning over again 😞
100% agree - wipers something else most lkke
I’ve had this on many Fords, it’s due to the injectors unplug one at a time leave it unplugged and try and clear the codes and start it I guarantee you, it’s going to be one of them, maybe more
@@harrywatts6132 ohh really!? You're the first to suggest that mate, I'll definitely give it a shot, cheers!
@@CurrusOfSalvagesent you an email fella
If you got the washer motor from Europart it will be the issue.Get genuine Ford pump. Your scan tool needs minimum of 5 volts to diagnose the car.
Had a same fault with a kuga it was a loose wire in the pin plug on the Ecu under the front wing if you get someone to move the wires at the ecu plugs it most likely start
Cheers mate
@@StephenBrown-y1c ohh I'm glad you found the fault on yours. I've had an auto electrician out who checked the ECU connectors and wiring and he said it was all fine, sadly 😞
Is it just me or is that a stupid place to mount an ecu ?
Solder the clock cluster connector, use leaded solder on top of the old solder 👍
I have a Ford CMax that had similar weird issues. After lots of research found that my issue was the dashboard.
The solder Ford use has a habit of failing. The easy thing to do is with a decent soldering iron, re solder all the contacts on the circuit board with lead solder and the problems go away. Apparently all CanBus runs through the dashboard hence a number of weird odb codes and running issues.
Dont know if this will fix your issue, but it sorted mine and it’s been a-ok in the 5 years since.
When I say dash, I mean instrument cluster. Sorry, I’m in *idiot*.
@@p8ddy as if that could be it! Surely Ford should have really fixed that issue! Glad it sorted yours out mate
@@p8ddy 😂
I’m leaning towards a groundd problem . Ch was ck all ground connections where you can find them
My reader says there's a short to ground (@30:10) in the wiper relay... Could that literally just be a faulty relay!?
Had this problem with mine turned out to be a fried ecu and then not long after replacing the ecu the instruments cluster went on it so a great opportunity for me to replace the clocks you have to the convers+ ones. After all this mines back to life.
Breakdown to fix issue:
Buy used ecu get keys recoded to ecu.
Clocks fried get new convers+ clocks with lower miles than yours that way you can adjust them in forscan and you will need a mod to turn the airbag light off for mot.
@@damoblake6000 oh damn! That's an outstanding comment!! That legit sounds like the perfect plan if the soldering doesn't work. Cheers mate!
The washer pump was doing the same as what yours is doing with a after market pump on it. Tried 2 after market pumps both failed then I bought a ford genuine pump that worked fine and still fine to this day. The pumps look the same but slightly longer on genuine pump connectors that's why your after market pump won't work properly.
@@GaryGrant-x5k I knew that bloody pump wasn't right like! Even though the seller said it was. Cheers for that mate, I honestly thought I was going mad over it lol
Look up pine hollows lots of useful info from Ivan . Iv learnt get yourself a test light and multi meter . Look up a wiring diagram with power distribution . And you will save yourself going down rabbit holes and spending money on the parts cannon . Personally if your getting no communication with the ecu . Check fee first . If power there check power and grounds at ecu . If no power there then it’s trace your power distribution between computer and fuse box . Could be a mumber of things bad ground , broken wire . But you need that diagram to progress . Good luck
@@lawrencesmith1952 ahh Cheers for that, I've got a multimeter and light tester thing but I'm not the best with either 😂 Cheers for an order in which to check it too
The bcm/gem is a gateway it communicates on all can systems , check the pin 6/14 grip in dlc and then do a comms resistance check at dlc 60 ohms for starters , forget the scanner until this is done,
@@mike-s8n8y I had an auto electrician out... I really hope he checked that! Cheers!
i think its the bcm fried you changed the washer jet pump but the wire connector can get wet check the wire connector for the washer jet pump if glazy it got wet and needs replacing and the bcm as it sent shocks to it and basically killed it i hope you get it fixed bud keep us updated
I had the same exact issue on my 2011 mondeo estate which I still own. All I did was change the washer motor and when I was on motorway used rear washer and my car did that annoying tone all dash lights came up and engine died on motorway and all outside lights stuck on. Disconnect the battery reconnect it mines been fine since my mechanic said the water climbs up the inside of the wiring into bcm from washer motor check all your connections for a blue tinch from screen wash in your body control module it’s a known fault
Had one once that had no crank , locking issues and horn blaring. It was the fuse box motherboard under the glovebox. Moisture in the car makes the board corrode and cause multiple faults. A good clean of the board usually sorts it.
It looks to me when you're scanning the car if it's not communicating with any of the modules apart from the BCM you need to check your powers and grounds
@@stephenrobertson3287 the auto electrician checked them all... They were fine. Honestly, the car just hates me!
The washer pump fails and washer fluid pushes out through the top where the plug is and the water travels through the wire and destroys the BCM. Yes it’s sounds mad but I’ve been there ! A used BCM with the same part number is plug and play even if the two letters at the end are different. New washer pump and BCM job done.
@@DoubleG79234 ohh are they? My BCM board is bone dry and when I changed the pump, it sent the car scatty for the wiper controls... That's very interesting about it being plug and play though, cheers!!
@@CurrusOfSalvage my Bcm looked good too 👍
Fix the problem with the dash lights flickering job done
@@richarddent5537 the lights aren't flashing mate, it's just the way my phone is recording, unfortunately
My Mondeo 2011 1.6 edge est 138.000om the clock fabulous car with no probs I'd definitely have another. for what's it going to cost just get it to a decent garage
@@stephenburgreave2525 where's the fun in that? Lol. Tbf, I would be scarred by what a garage would want to charge me for trying to find the fault since they'll check a lot of the things I've already checked... If you know what I mean
its the key not reading all the time or water is getting in the scuttle panel is blocked and let the bcm getting wet with leafs
But why would it stop the immo from working... It just doesn't make sense, nothing with this bloody car makes sense! Lol. I think the scuttle panel is clear, but I'll have a look, cheers.
mate, this happened to my mondeo, water runs back up the wires from the wiper washer motor into the bcm, doesn't make sense because it Defys logic and gravity its common issue there's videos about it, you can easy fix it but cutting the cable and using basic connectors so the water has a break in the line, it's near impossible to spot as the water tracks inside the cable sheath, good luck mate
@@ste4414 it's such a stupid design/fault for when they happens. I'm not convinced it's that though because the BCM is perfectly dry with zero signs of corrosion... It's honestly batted my head!
@@CurrusOfSalvage mine never either pal, try it nothing to lose, keep us updated
looks like a classic cluster fault to me they get dry joints behind the multiplug
take the ecu out and clean it if the the wire connectors and open the ecu up clean it with isopropyl alcohol
That's a canny shout, clean up the board for possible dust, crap and "limescale"-esk crap that was on the outside. Cheers.
Maybe a corrupted BCM ?
Sounds like a ECU fault I would just sell it on as it is
@@andycook4164 you speak my language! Lol. I need to wait until it will randomly start again before I think seriously about getting shot of it... You could be right though
It's the wiper motor plug...its git water/screenwash ingress!.. pull the plug off check it I bet its all green and possibly broken a few pins
@@alanthomas8519 tbf, I did only check the motor and not the plug on the wiring... I'll give it a look over the next day or so, cheers. It's on my to do list.
I had this problem it was water ingress in the ecu i sent it to autotronics in leicester cost me £175.00 2 day turn around plugged it in started fist time.
@@tutsywutsy oh damn, was it purely just water from outside getting into the ECU? Or was it from the jet washer somehow?
@@CurrusOfSalvage it was on my transit van it was rain water getting into the ecu it's a major problem on fords since I sent it to autotronics leicester over 2 years ago it's been fine ,if they find your ecu has no faults you only pay for postage around £8.00 I would highly recommend them.
Mine exactly same problem as your car I found one black cable connect ground was snap so locator is driver side front seat under carpet near sill that cable for ground to bcm communication to immobilise to start engine.
@@robertbeattie9000 😲 how the hell did you find that!? That seems like an impossible problem to find! Lol. If that's the problem, how come it randomly starts at times? Mmmm
Just got to 28 minutes and you say the battery is low, that's know for throwing up all sorts of lights on the dash. Charge the battery and reset the battery monitoring system
@@JasonJohnson-yu8zf I've had the battery off and fully charged, unfortunately the fault still persists 😞
ford use lead free solder which is rubbish in the clocks they need re soldering on the big chip that the main plug fits in to as said slap the top of the clock housing when it does it btw use lead solder if you can find it
@@MrDezwez am I just putting solder straight over what's already there? Or do I need to send it off to be repaired properly?
Check and clean all connections on fuse box with contact cleaner
This is more than likely a bcm fault, iv done a few of these as long as part numbers match will be plug and play, most commonly happens when the car has been stood for a while dont ask me why lol can always code features in using forscan etc
@@theskylinegtrrr I bought a forscan reader thing, but it wouldn't link up to the car but, that's when the car wouldn't start, like when the ECU wont communicate. I'll have to wait until it decides to work again before trying but yeah, I think it's the BCM module. I didn't know they were plug and play, that's very interesting to know! Cheers
Look up pine hollows vid no crank no start on a dodge ( it’s American ) intermittent fault follow his guide line s hope this helps .
I'll give him a watch, cheers mate
it is a common issue with ford's mate it is an immobiliser fault it's caused by dry solder joint on the cluster
@@dennispowell7719 how do they even create that fault? Lol.
As other people said have a look at the solder on the back of the clocks. There are loads ov videos on TH-cam about it. But mainly focus but they are the same style clocks. Think it’s a u1900 fault. Can bus failure. Hope you get it sorted m8.
@@wayneguilliatt4144 ahh Cheers, I'll check that fault code. As if the clocks hold that much power! Lol
@@CurrusOfSalvageyup I think it was saving salvage had that problem on a focus. Old solder on the rear of the clocks and it wouldn’t start…
@@wayneguilliatt4144 The Mondeo clocks are not the same as the focus clocks. Totally separate from the immobiliser. The mk4 Mondeo will start with any donor clocks but the mileage will carry over and read whatever is the mileage on the donor clocks.
@@DoubleG79234 ah didn’t know that. Every day is a school day. 👍👍
Pain in the arse I gad a kuga similar issues spent a fortune just got rid. , thsts ya best bet get rid
Even in words... I can feel the pain there! I honestly think that might be the best advice!
Black rubber gromitthe pump pushes into has a filter in it it needs taking out and washing
@@richarddent5537 ohh really!? You're the first to suggest that, cheers mate.
though i have a fiesta seems like a fault i had not same but starting issue was with the board on the speedo to do with the imobalizer of 2 of the joints being dry would sometimes start sometimes be dead after soldering it works every time just a shot in the dark
@@scottfrancis1765 I am honestly shocked, at how many people have had this solder problem, across the Ford range(r), lol, sorry, couldn't help myself. Did you just whack a load of solder over everything on the board or did you strip it all clean?
Hey I cleaned off the offending dry joint and redid it
It's been in flood water ECU is done put on s=hand one it well be ok been there done it.
Ohh interesting, what makes you think flood damage and not water getting in from elsewhere?
you know that green plug you unplugged from the bcm i know you checked for dampness but check for corrosion in the pins if so it got wet from the washer jet leaking
@@jasonsumner1354 yeah I didn't think to check the connector block that goes into the jet motor! Stupid of me really, I should have lol
Wack the dashboard .. it's the dry solder in the cluster causing the problem
@@ivorhardy-n7n tried it mate, it seemed to work but once I used the jet washers, it's dead again
Windscreen washer bottles crack on these car therefore allowing water onto the bcm which can cause starting issues ,PS it happened to mine!!!!
Ohh the actual bottle... There was random fluids on the front under tray part
It's not the washer bottle that cracks but the pump itself pushes screen wash up inside the wires into the BCM. If you pull the fuse board down which is below the glovebox look for the green connector. If screen wash is getting into the BCM then 2 pins will have corrosion. If there's any residue on the pins on the BCM then you'll probably need a 2nd hand unit
There are companies that will repair your ECU in a couple of days. I had my DIM for my Volvo repaired - 3 days
How much did that set you back? I would prefer to find a company local to the North East, that I could take it to, instead of posting it off somewhere...
I had my last car checked and progran only tok 2 days on ebay there a few
if it starts after you have gone into all gears and it starts in any gear i would suspect a sensor if there is one on the gear box
@@eddieMurphy11111 that's how I could get it to start at first but now it's not starting from cycling through the gears, it'll only start after it's been left alone for a few weeks lol
@@CurrusOfSalvagethere's a sensor on the clutch pedal too, you have to press the clutch to start the car
BCM WATER FAULT 100% clean and dry all connections
They are all perfectly dry mate, no corrosion or anything on them...
plus when you showed the ecu it has got wet i bet its a bad connection
Yeah I didn't like the limescale stuff on it but the auto electrician I had out said it was standard on these due to the placement of them
Only use genuine Ford washer pump too
Yeah I did think I could possibly try an OEM motor
@30:10 my diagnostics reader says there is a short to ground in the wiper relay... Could that just be a faulty relay!?
its cheap fix if it is its worth trying you could stick a multi meter on it or just replace it with another
Do your basics check with multimeter on fuse box . Ensure you get power where you should once done you can eliminate that . Check the BCM as most systems have connections with it through other systems. Looking for blue green marks in the connectors of the BCM and use electric contact cleaner . Water travels by capillary action along wires . If limescale on any module they need checking for water damage. You could try back probing connectors to find if they are getting right voltage and signals. What i suspect is you have a circuit that is shorted to ground (probably in one of the modules) this will pull other circuits down causing incorrect detection and activation of connections. Watch South Maine auto guy and Diagnose Dan. Remember break circuits down so you know where the problem starts good luck.
@@andrewfoster141 ohh I've never heard of either of those, I'll give them a watch, cheers. I think it was the wipers that was saying "ground to short" when I put my diagnostics on it... Don't suppose you have any idea where in the system that could possibly be?
clock clusters common problem
Loving the vids matey
Does this thing not start in rain storm?
I've got no idea... I've had it over the summer and when we've had rain, it's been in a "dead" state, unfortunately
You should us a obd2 diagnostic scanner
@@jamesschannel1975 yeah I have mate but when it won't start, it won't communicate with the ECU so I can't read the fault... Which points towards the ECU being the fault?
smack the dash above the clocks then try and start the car mate
@@dennispowell7719 it worked for a bit but once I used the jet washers, it won't turn over again
@CurrusOfSalvage you wouldn't belive the issues bad solder joints on the clocks can cause mate especially immobiliser issues
What a nightmare. I hate electrical issues with cars. Was it listed as a runs and drives?
@@ianberry1713 yeah it was, I mean, technically it does... Just don't expect to drive it within 3 weeks of turning it off 😂
@@CurrusOfSalvage I’m thinking you should cut your losses and either sell as salvage/scrap or on eBay as spares or repair as a non runner. I think you’ve opened up a can of expensive worms 😬
@@ianberry1713 yeah I'm thinking the same tbf... But I'm very stubborn... Lol
Check your grounds.
Clocks hit the dashboard it will start
I'll give it a shot the mora, cheers.
Buying from auction you always roll the dice 🎲. There not for sale at auction cos there good .
@@liamc666 that's the beauty of it... It's all about the gamble 😁
Have 2.2 titanium x sport my horn disables when i lock it twice alarm settings. Now gone completely 🤮 ones say its clock spring nothing up on computer. Used to got it on by double unlock .
@@6brad9 the, Ford electrics strike again... Saying that, my old daily had a clock spring problem and they can be a nightmare!
@CurrusOfSalvage I'll change it over anyway ,or fit a new secondary horn button on my wheel
@CurrusOfSalvage well blow me away steady held the unlock fob to put all windows down and then steady up 🤣🤣🤣 horns back working
@@6brad9😂😂
Had any luck yet
@@lawrencesmith1952 nah mate, I've checked a fair few things from the suggestions, unfortunately the silly amount of rain delayed being able to check stuff.
Try hitting the top of the dash where the clocks are if it starts it will probably be a problem with the instrument cluster,my focus did exactly this,had to send the clocks off to be repaired
@@marcwallace8589 the auto electrician tried that and it didn't work... But it seems to be the main answer from people... Cheers mate.
Charge the car battery so you haven't got voltage problems when checking. But think either the bcm has got water in at some point or it's your dash clocks
Possible cracked fuse board
@@kevinrussell6869 do you mean like an actual physical crack on the board itself?
Mate its your dash!!!
The whole dash? 😉 I'll give the clocks hit a try the mora
your bcm is f----- get one from e bay or scrap yard same no or send it off to get it repaired not ecm or it would not run
That's my thinking too ... If the ECU was goosed, it would never start?
Sell it on, get rid of it and never buy anything in the Ford family again 😂 don't do the BCM kit idea, the car is not worth the hassle.
@@Theworldsobvious it sounds like you remember my pain from the Volvo lol
Never trust copart
@@davidcook5954 that might be the trusted comment yet! Lol
Or try the earth cable mite have can lose
@@grahamsmith1824 checked it, it's fine... Cheers though, I'll take any suggestion at this rate! Lol
another test you can do take the black wire off the battery for 15 mins or so that will reset the ecu tighten the black back on battery this might help but you will been to set your clock i know least of your worrys lol the window will need to be learned again to go fully up with one click if that dont work with the battery wire and reset of the ecu as you said it could be ecu dead but the engine starts then stop so i cant see the ecu dead
@@jasonsumner1354 yeah I've tried that, cheers, that's why I need the code for the stereo, which I didn't think about 😅 my head's still thinking it's the BCM module and the wipers are messing it up...
@@CurrusOfSalvageyou'll need to take the stereo out to get the serial number, it's on the back of the stereo. It doesn't display the code on the screen
I can't help you sorry I'm in to older fords less electrical ones like my 2004 29000 full service history focus I would sell it on brake it sell the parts or scrap it as sounds like a massive nightmare and money pit if it's a common fault and no body can fix it even your dog is saying the same 😂🤣
@@petergrinnell2500 😂😂 that's what Sidney was saying! That makes complete sense! Lol.👍
I love the look of this car! Unfortunately here in the states we don’t have this. The closest is the hybrid fusion or fuel focus! And those dual clutch focus were trash! I had 2000/02/05/10 focus all in manual and loved them never any issues while mates had them in auto and had sooo many issues!
Then I got the 2019 focus and Oh MY what a PILE OF TRASH
@@jessewynne8193 lol, I've actually owned every model of the Mondeo, apart from the new ones. I've always liked them but also been scared something like this would happen!
That look very bad
I’m afraid we don’t have time to list every tiny fault on auction cars ( Copart employee )
@@markevans2280 tiny fault... What's the fault? Lol. I do feel "electrical" should be a separate category to "mechanical" like.
I know how to fix it Sell the pile of shit Dare u go fixed 😊
Spoken from the heart right there... And definitely the easiest solution lol
Get forscan
@@chucky2316 I've got it but the car won't read it while it's in this "fault...", which it's back in unfortunately lol
@CurrusOfSalvage I have one they are brilliant cars but they do have two issues which most people have pointed out on here. I checked my screen washer when I replaced the motor. Good luck with it my friend
Cud be the ignition
@@grahamsmith1824 I've changed it 😞
I had the same exact issue on my 2011 mondeo estate which I still own. All I did was change the washer motor and when I was on motorway used rear washer and my car did that annoying tone all dash lights came up and engine died on motorway and all outside lights stuck on. Disconnect the battery reconnect it mines been fine since my mechanic said the water climbs up the inside of the wiring into bcm from washer motor check all your connections for a blue tinch from screen wash in your body control module it’s a known fault
Bloody hell, that's crap timing for that too happen for you. I tried changing the washer motor and it sent the wiper controls mental lol.