Thanks for this video Sr. Perfect for a newbie like me. I followed your instructions step by step and replaced the shocks in an hour by myself. Saved me a few dollars in labor.
Thanks. I have a 2010 Kia Forte Koup and this is exactly what I needed. However mine is pretty rusted from the Northeast winters and salt. The top nut within the square box kept spinning. Had to hammer a chisel in there to stop the nut. ALSO FYI both bolts top and bottom call for torque between 72-87 ft/lbs. I just got my repair manual in.
Μπραβο ρε μαφια !!!I like that you know the torque value how you know that?excelent that you put the torque wrench back to zero!You deserve the excelent!
Excellent video. I have to do this job and I was very worried about that long top bolt for the shock being seized into the car body. But at a torque of 40 ft lbs it should not be too hard to remove. Thanks for posting this
Dave Barajas, I know your reply is 2 years old. I am working on my forte and the top bolt and nut are seized. Impossible to remove the top bolt. Wondering if you had this problem when you replaced your shocks. Thank you.
Gary, I sure did have this problem. but it was only on the passenger side from what I recall. The problem is likely that the long upper bolt for the shock is not seized in it's hole, but instead it's actually seized inside the metal sleeve for the rubber bushing on the top end of the shock absorber. It was a massive pain but I only found one way to get it done and was successful. I took a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel attachment (several of them because they will break) to carefully cut off the outer steel layer of the shock along with the bushing which would then leave you with just the inner metal sleeve with some residual rubber left on it. Then I took a map gas torch (yellow tank) and heated that sleeve up until it was blazing hot and it finally let go! I prefer the expand and contract method when heating frozen/seized fasteners. That essentially consists of heating up the bolt/nut red hot, and then immediately spraying it down with a spray bottle of cold water and allowing a couple mins to let it cool. Repeating this process a couple times usually will flex the metal enough to break the seal of rust or corrosion allowing you to remove the stuck fastener. After about 3 heating attempts, I was finally able to remove the bolt by putting a socket on the bolt head, and a vise grip holding the now cooked metal sleeve, then twisted it to finally break the seal. Then the bolt came out. The hardest part of the job is taking the time to cut off those pieces of the shock absorber to expose the problem area. heat is your only friend in this case, considering you have the same problem I did. But I remember it well, and am willing to bet you have a similar issue. If there's any other info that might help you, I'm here. But hopefully this helps at least a bit
The bolt turns freely, but the nut is frozen to the bolt. The nut was just spinning inside the “cage” (can’t think of a better term) that is part of the underbody. I have cut off part of the cage, used penetrating oil and still not able to get it to crack. I can now hold the nut, and with breaker bar still not able to get it. So, yes heat will be my next option. But I feel like I will need to weld the nut to the frame since there will not be a physical way of preventing the nut from falling off. I am assuming that is why kia has this captive nut arrangement. Thanks for the info!
I could be wrong but from the way I remember, there wasn't an actual removable nut on the opposite end of the shock bolt. I remember it being more of a permanent maybe welded type threaded hole. I believe your bolt is just spinning around because it's frozen to that metal sleeve which keeps it from being able to back itself out. I would start chipping away at that shock to expose the sleeve so you can start heating it up to break it loose. A map gas torch burns hot enough to heat the metals up good enough. It hasn't failed me yet
Dave Barajas, yes it is a “permanent” nut. But if you grind off the welds of the cover you can get to the nut. For me, that nut was spinning with the bolt. Finally got it off with heat. Turns out the other side was even more difficult. But as of today both shocks are in and finished!
I can't find rear quick strut assembly videos or product anywhere on the internet, yet I see the spring for it next to the Shock you're installing in this video. Where the heck do you find the rear suspension??
How are the OE Monroe shocks holding up? I thought my Forte Hatchback had bad rear shocks but I replaced them with OE Monroe with the same result. Its causing scalloping on my rear tires :(
Can you please reveal how to find the torque value for Kia ceed hatchback 1,6 2007 for the bolts attached to the shock absorbers installation mount parts????
Would the rear shocks make a squeaking noise on a 2012 Kia Forte when they are bad because my rear of my 2012 Kia Forte makes a squeaking noise from the rear of the car when you hit bumps did the rear of your Kia Forte when you hit bumps making squeaking noise
Hey Creative Mechanic great vid, I like the anti-seize too. I have had so many seized lugs on my forte xD... A quick question for you, I am replacing my front struts (with quick struts) and also my rear shocks. Have you ever replaced the rear coil springs? My car is leaning to the left and I feel it in the steering currently, and am hoping that the new front struts correct the height of both sides. I couldn't find rear coil springs online very easily, and was told that they are rarely replaced. Have every replaced them? Thanks you for any help!!!
I have had a Forte koup for 10 years and just had the front struts and sway bars replaced. Mine was sagging to the left by about an Inch maybe a little bit more. When the front struts were replaced it reduced the sag to less than a half inch. Rear shocks and springs are still good. I was wondering if the sag was another issue so I looked at a lot of forte owner forums. Turns out almost everyone noticed a slight left sag but only noticable if you were closely looking for it. Doesn't affect the ride it's just there. Go figure.
Major Garlic Williams thanks for the response! I wish I had the koup haha. I have a manual transmission sedan. The ride height is looking a lot better now with the struts in. Maybe that slight sag you mentioned, but definitely not as much as before. Thanks for your feedback
Both my rear springs are broken! Kia dealer in Canada was $420 taxes in, that is only for the springs! Not installed!!! It is actually very easy to install new springs. I bought lowering springs from tdotperformance.ca. Set of 4 H&R springs was about $80 cheaper than only rears from Kia dealer. Replacing shocks while I am doing this. The captive nut is seized to the top bolt. Now the nut just spins in the “cage” holding the nut in place.
For 1st Gen (2010-2013) Kia Soul, North America, KYB 554387 Gas-A-Just Monotube are your only method to upgrade the ride comfort in the rear. The front you have to get OEM struts from the Stealership ( so they last more than 10-20K than most of the Chinese quick struts).
Such a dumb design, why weld a free floating nut inside that little bracket with no way to get a wrench on it if it comes loose, did you end up cutting yours?
Thanks for this video Sr. Perfect for a newbie like me. I followed your instructions step by step and replaced the shocks in an hour by myself. Saved me a few dollars in labor.
Several years later and still helping. Thanks
I just did the shocks. Took me about 20 minutes total. Very easy job!
Thank you for releasing my spare tire back into the wild.
Thanks finally a forte video!
Thanks. I have a 2010 Kia Forte Koup and this is exactly what I needed. However mine is pretty rusted from the Northeast winters and salt. The top nut within the square box kept spinning. Had to hammer a chisel in there to stop the nut. ALSO FYI both bolts top and bottom call for torque between 72-87 ft/lbs. I just got my repair manual in.
that's why I have found, and all these videos don't give the torque and when you find one then the torque is wrong.
Μπραβο ρε μαφια !!!I like that you know the torque value how you know that?excelent that you put the torque wrench back to zero!You deserve the excelent!
My rear struts lasted about 175k miles . KIA is killing the game & imma buy another
2:19 was about to do it until I saw that this square box is torn off one side - shock still held in place…is it worth doing or leave it to the pro?
Excellent video. I have to do this job and I was very worried about that long top bolt for the shock being seized into the car body. But at a torque of 40 ft lbs it should not be too hard to remove. Thanks for posting this
Dave Barajas, I know your reply is 2 years old. I am working on my forte and the top bolt and nut are seized. Impossible to remove the top bolt. Wondering if you had this problem when you replaced your shocks. Thank you.
Gary, I sure did have this problem. but it was only on the passenger side from what I recall. The problem is likely that the long upper bolt for the shock is not seized in it's hole, but instead it's actually seized inside the metal sleeve for the rubber bushing on the top end of the shock absorber. It was a massive pain but I only found one way to get it done and was successful. I took a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel attachment (several of them because they will break) to carefully cut off the outer steel layer of the shock along with the bushing which would then leave you with just the inner metal sleeve with some residual rubber left on it. Then I took a map gas torch (yellow tank) and heated that sleeve up until it was blazing hot and it finally let go! I prefer the expand and contract method when heating frozen/seized fasteners. That essentially consists of heating up the bolt/nut red hot, and then immediately spraying it down with a spray bottle of cold water and allowing a couple mins to let it cool. Repeating this process a couple times usually will flex the metal enough to break the seal of rust or corrosion allowing you to remove the stuck fastener. After about 3 heating attempts, I was finally able to remove the bolt by putting a socket on the bolt head, and a vise grip holding the now cooked metal sleeve, then twisted it to finally break the seal. Then the bolt came out. The hardest part of the job is taking the time to cut off those pieces of the shock absorber to expose the problem area. heat is your only friend in this case, considering you have the same problem I did. But I remember it well, and am willing to bet you have a similar issue. If there's any other info that might help you, I'm here. But hopefully this helps at least a bit
The bolt turns freely, but the nut is frozen to the bolt. The nut was just spinning inside the “cage” (can’t think of a better term) that is part of the underbody. I have cut off part of the cage, used penetrating oil and still not able to get it to crack. I can now hold the nut, and with breaker bar still not able to get it. So, yes heat will be my next option. But I feel like I will need to weld the nut to the frame since there will not be a physical way of preventing the nut from falling off. I am assuming that is why kia has this captive nut arrangement. Thanks for the info!
I could be wrong but from the way I remember, there wasn't an actual removable nut on the opposite end of the shock bolt. I remember it being more of a permanent maybe welded type threaded hole. I believe your bolt is just spinning around because it's frozen to that metal sleeve which keeps it from being able to back itself out. I would start chipping away at that shock to expose the sleeve so you can start heating it up to break it loose. A map gas torch burns hot enough to heat the metals up good enough. It hasn't failed me yet
Dave Barajas, yes it is a “permanent” nut. But if you grind off the welds of the cover you can get to the nut. For me, that nut was spinning with the bolt. Finally got it off with heat. Turns out the other side was even more difficult. But as of today both shocks are in and finished!
I can't find rear quick strut assembly videos or product anywhere on the internet, yet I see the spring for it next to the Shock you're installing in this video. Where the heck do you find the rear suspension??
Fortes don't have struts in the rear. The spring and shock are separate from each other. That's why you can't find a quick strut for the rear
What would you suggest doing if the top bolt is spinning?
Thank you so much for this man!
Any video of 2014 Kia Forte Sedan Coilovers installation?
How are the OE Monroe shocks holding up? I thought my Forte Hatchback had bad rear shocks but I replaced them with OE Monroe with the same result. Its causing scalloping on my rear tires :(
Yo, thats way easier than I thought it would be! Literally 2 bolts.
Can you please reveal how to find the torque value for Kia ceed hatchback 1,6 2007 for the bolts attached to the shock absorbers installation mount parts????
Would the rear shocks make a squeaking noise on a 2012 Kia Forte when they are bad because my rear of my 2012 Kia Forte makes a squeaking noise from the rear of the car when you hit bumps did the rear of your Kia Forte when you hit bumps making squeaking noise
Will this work on a 2013 kia forte?
Yes it should
Cool thank you, I need to replace mine there leaking.
Hey Creative Mechanic great vid, I like the anti-seize too. I have had so many seized lugs on my forte xD... A quick question for you, I am replacing my front struts (with quick struts) and also my rear shocks. Have you ever replaced the rear coil springs? My car is leaning to the left and I feel it in the steering currently, and am hoping that the new front struts correct the height of both sides. I couldn't find rear coil springs online very easily, and was told that they are rarely replaced. Have every replaced them? Thanks you for any help!!!
I have had a Forte koup for 10 years and just had the front struts and sway bars replaced. Mine was sagging to the left by about an Inch maybe a little bit more. When the front struts were replaced it reduced the sag to less than a half inch. Rear shocks and springs are still good. I was wondering if the sag was another issue so I looked at a lot of forte owner forums. Turns out almost everyone noticed a slight left sag but only noticable if you were closely looking for it. Doesn't affect the ride it's just there. Go figure.
Major Garlic Williams thanks for the response! I wish I had the koup haha. I have a manual transmission sedan. The ride height is looking a lot better now with the struts in. Maybe that slight sag you mentioned, but definitely not as much as before. Thanks for your feedback
Both my rear springs are broken! Kia dealer in Canada was $420 taxes in, that is only for the springs! Not installed!!! It is actually very easy to install new springs. I bought lowering springs from tdotperformance.ca. Set of 4 H&R springs was about $80 cheaper than only rears from Kia dealer. Replacing shocks while I am doing this. The captive nut is seized to the top bolt. Now the nut just spins in the “cage” holding the nut in place.
What tire/rim size did u use as a spare?
Same for 2017?
How is the spare doing? Did it grow and find a home?
Best we can tell it’s at Ferrari now
My bolt keeps spinning, Any suggestions?
I'm in the same boat. Tried jambing it to no avail.
Perfect explained... Thank you
How do I do this on a rusted car I can’t break the nut loose
Great hand actor! Who was that guy? LOL
Great video
How can I lift the car 1.5 inches?
2011 kia soul has rear shock but I see nothing on how to replace rear strut in addition.
For 1st Gen (2010-2013) Kia Soul, North America, KYB 554387
Gas-A-Just Monotube are your only method to upgrade the ride comfort in the rear.
The front you have to get OEM struts from the Stealership ( so they last more than 10-20K than most of the Chinese quick struts).
My welded nut on the top bolt just spun, so now I have to cut that damn thing out.U can tell it's a kia engineering.
Such a dumb design, why weld a free floating nut inside that little bracket with no way to get a wrench on it if it comes loose, did you end up cutting yours?
@@Brianwearsglasses Had to rip off that bracket then cut the bolt off.
Shocks and struts are 2 different things