Just in case anyone is thinking of going through this exact procedure, there is no need to remove the hammers or the sears and their fiddly springs. I managed the whole job by just keeping the hammers in their most forward position. Great video, saved me some money and a trip to the gunsmiths. 👍
Thank you very much indeed for this very detailed video, it has got me out of a lot of trouble. Today my inertia trigger stopped working so knew it was probably dirt inside or the broken inertia spring. So I thought I would take the stock off and have a look (I have never before taken a stock off). Anyway plucked up the courage and did it.watched this video, found out where the inertia was and how it worked and decided it must be grime. Then had the bright idea to spray with Legia gun oil and blast it with a airline to really clean it up. Luckily I had placed it in a plastic ice cream tub to do this. Looking at it I discovered the trigger pin had moved enough to allow the right hand lever to fall out. At this point I screamed and cursed. Anyway watching your video three or four times and freeze framing by pure damned luck I got it back without having to take the trigger plate away from the chassis and it works, every thing works again. Thank you very much.
Great video, guys!!! Thanks for posting it. I took a DT-11 Trigger group apart today, and it was a pain in the ass... Ended up having to remove even the trigger guard in order to put it back together. I'll tell you that what you're showing in this video is 20x more complex. I'd have stopped at the second screw on this 68x.... The good thing is now I know who to talk to when I have gun issues!!!
I just got myself a used 686 want to give it a good cleaning. Was not really sure how to pull the trigger assembly to clean. I am use to semi and pump shot guns. Watched this and decided just to pull the stock that let me looked at the assembly.I was pleasantly surprised to see that all it needed was wiped great off and a little lube. Great video
Good video's. One comment on the heating the screws that have been loctited in place. Rather than heating the entire receiver you can use a an electric soldering iron. Heat the soldering iron up and hold it on the head of the screw, that will heat the loctite and break the bond.
Thank you so much for this video, the triggerpin (which is very loose) fell out during cleaning With both levers, and when putting them back the selector wouldnt work. Had been f#cking around for an hour and contemplating taking my gun to the dealer when I saw this video and found they where directional.
I noticed that the hammer spring assembly pooped out fairly easily - isn't there a guide nut that is crimped to the back of the assembly that would keep it from coming out?
To disable the Auto Safety all you need to do is remove the auto safety lever from underneath the top tang. This will require that the trigger plate be removed but you have to do that to change out these springs. Now for a tips. BTW, this particular type of lockwork is called a Trigger Plate design and that lower unit is the trigger plate assembly. First is as soon as you remove the Inertia Lever, that thingamabob behind the hammers, put the pin for the Inertia lever back into it's hole in the trigger plate. This will lock the sears down so that the sear springs won't pop free. BTW, dry the trigger plate of any oil and a bit of scotch tap will keep that intertia lever pin contained in the trigger plate. Tip two is useful for those with arthritis in the thumbs who simply cannot grab the mainsprings and remove them. That is to wait until you have the trigger plate removed and then pull the trigger on each hammer while restraining the hammer with a block of wood. Once both hammers are released you can simply lift out the mainsprings. Recocking the hammers does take a bit of force but it's not very difficult at all with that same handy block of wood used to spare your thumbs. Tip three is untested because I didn't think of it today and I am not taking my 686 down again to test this. However I do believe that the trigger can be removed with the sears in place. So my tip is to skip on removing the hammers and sears and go straight to removing the trigger levers and then the trigger assembly. These tips this should prove a real time saver because it's dead simple to swap out the inertia block spring and re-install the trigger assembly. Just be careful to place the trigger levers in the correct spot in the notch of the sear block below the actual sear surface. I also recommend putting the spring (split) pin back in place FIRST when re-installing the trigger. The sliding pin comes second and using the back end of a 0.095 diameter drill bit will provide for a starter pin with enough slop so you don't have to fight to get every piece perfectly positioned. Just push that drill bit free one surface at a time as you slide in the trigger pin. Final step is to re-install the inertia lever and that is a bit of a challenge the first time. BTW the sears are restrained by the trigger levers at this point so you won't have any sear issues when you remove the inertial lever pin you have taped in place. To install the trigger lever you have to go in a bit towards the rear of the cutout in the sears and actually force the sears down by something in the range of 0.010 inch. Doing this will get that tiny short spring extension started properly in the slot for it. BTW, I was almost a full hour trying to get this in place. Good news is that once you have everything in place and working properly you will have a 686 that could fire 22 shorts and still reset the trigger every single time.
Looks like my five year old Jig Saw puzzle; LoL besides all this I made my own parts of old guns or shotguns that parts are unavailable due to factory closing down; it takes me days to get the right size to fit and adjust. I wouldn`t do it for a price but for my collections of my guns only. Greeting from Malta-Europe.
Does anyone know what types of "Brownells thin bits" that is used in the video? I can see that there are three different types, but not their blade diameter and thickness. I ask because i dont want to by the whole set, and only need the bits on my 686. Found it! Specifically you need a magna tip 120-1 for the lock out screw (#120) this bit is 0.120 wide and will need to be filed down to about .100 wide (I don't see that magna-tips come in a 100 -1 bit). You'll need a .210 - 2 bit for the rear post screw #54 under the safety slide, and you'll need a .340 - 1 for the trigger plate screw #55. The -1 bits have a 0.020 tip thickness, the -2 bits are .025.
Length of Pull Adjustments If you have a GC15LP Gracoil with length of pull adjustment, use a 7/64 allen wrench to loosen the 2 screws on the right side of the stock plate, then turn the center shaft to your desired stock length and retighten.
Loved the video, you guys have great chemistry. However I was hoping you were going to get into removal of the locking lugs. My lock lever sits pretty well straight and I'm going to need to replace the lugs with a .015 or .030 oversize. Is that much of a job?
I haven't had the need to delve deeper into the receiver to do things like removing the firing pins, cocking rods, opening lever and spring or the locking "U" bolt. When I have to do those things we will video it and make an episode out of it.
Glen Pruett Just saw your comment, regarding the locking bolt you would need to check if it is standard of already oversize this is done by checking if there is a number 1 on the back of it. this part will require fitting correctly by a competent gunsmith.
Thanks for that, it's really useful information. Do many people shoot clays in the US? You seem to produce a lot of media about handguns and rifles, but very little on sporting shotguns.
Please take your time and put the receiver in a vise when using your screwdriver on tight screws. After I watched your bit slip 2x I had to stop watching. Too easy to scratch the receiver and the bit does not get full engagement when you are holding things in your hand and screw to driver alignment is all over the place
Oh Man !.... I cringe watching that shaky handed guy disassemble that Beretta.... Geese .... I cant watch. .... You can see he buggered up(damaged) those screw heads. What a hack....
Get a shotgun that has mechanical triggers and be done with these inertia pieces of shit. I have two Berettas - a 695 and a DT11. I also have three Browning 725's. I honestly don't think the extra money I paid for the Berettas makes sense. But I love both!
Perfect! On point! Your video helped me a LOT! Hair spring was broken. Thanks a lot for your helpful video!
Just in case anyone is thinking of going through this exact procedure, there is no need to remove the hammers or the sears and their fiddly springs. I managed the whole job by just keeping the hammers in their most forward position.
Great video, saved me some money and a trip to the gunsmiths. 👍
Thank you very much indeed for this very detailed video, it has got me out of a lot of trouble. Today my inertia trigger stopped working so knew it was probably dirt inside or the broken inertia spring. So I thought I would take the stock off and have a look (I have never before taken a stock off). Anyway plucked up the courage and did it.watched this video, found out where the inertia was and how it worked and decided it must be grime. Then had the bright idea to spray with Legia gun oil and blast it with a airline to really clean it up. Luckily I had placed it in a plastic ice cream tub to do this. Looking at it I discovered the trigger pin had moved enough to allow the right hand lever to fall out. At this point I screamed and cursed. Anyway watching your video three or four times and freeze framing by pure damned luck I got it back without having to take the trigger plate away from the chassis and it works, every thing works again. Thank you very much.
Great video, guys!!! Thanks for posting it.
I took a DT-11 Trigger group apart today, and it was a pain in the ass... Ended up having to remove even the trigger guard in order to put it back together.
I'll tell you that what you're showing in this video is 20x more complex. I'd have stopped at the second screw on this 68x.... The good thing is now I know who to talk to when I have gun issues!!!
I just got myself a used 686 want to give it a good cleaning. Was not really sure how to pull the trigger assembly to clean. I am use to semi and pump shot guns. Watched this and decided just to pull the stock that let me looked at the assembly.I was pleasantly surprised to see that all it needed was wiped great off and a little lube. Great video
A video on disabling the auto safety would be great!
Good video's. One comment on the heating the screws that have been loctited in place. Rather than heating the entire receiver you can use a an electric soldering iron. Heat the soldering iron up and hold it on the head of the screw, that will heat the loctite and break the bond.
Thank you so much for this video, the triggerpin (which is very loose) fell out during cleaning With both levers, and when putting them back the selector wouldnt work. Had been f#cking around for an hour and contemplating taking my gun to the dealer when I saw this video and found they where directional.
Video starts at 7:42
note: the episode is 116, the barrel is cleaned in the 115 episode, stock is the next one ( the first 4 minutes or so).
I noticed that the hammer spring assembly pooped out fairly easily - isn't there a guide nut that is crimped to the back of the assembly that would keep it from coming out?
Great video !!! Thanks... now to get my Brownelle thin screw bits in the mail... top lever loose.
Excellent, many thanks!
To disable the Auto Safety all you need to do is remove the auto safety lever from underneath the top tang. This will require that the trigger plate be removed but you have to do that to change out these springs.
Now for a tips. BTW, this particular type of lockwork is called a Trigger Plate design and that lower unit is the trigger plate assembly.
First is as soon as you remove the Inertia Lever, that thingamabob behind the hammers, put the pin for the Inertia lever back into it's hole in the trigger plate. This will lock the sears down so that the sear springs won't pop free. BTW, dry the trigger plate of any oil and a bit of scotch tap will keep that intertia lever pin contained in the trigger plate.
Tip two is useful for those with arthritis in the thumbs who simply cannot grab the mainsprings and remove them. That is to wait until you have the trigger plate removed and then pull the trigger on each hammer while restraining the hammer with a block of wood. Once both hammers are released you can simply lift out the mainsprings. Recocking the hammers does take a bit of force but it's not very difficult at all with that same handy block of wood used to spare your thumbs.
Tip three is untested because I didn't think of it today and I am not taking my 686 down again to test this. However I do believe that the trigger can be removed with the sears in place. So my tip is to skip on removing the hammers and sears and go straight to removing the trigger levers and then the trigger assembly.
These tips this should prove a real time saver because it's dead simple to swap out the inertia block spring and re-install the trigger assembly. Just be careful to place the trigger levers in the correct spot in the notch of the sear block below the actual sear surface. I also recommend putting the spring (split) pin back in place FIRST when re-installing the trigger. The sliding pin comes second and using the back end of a 0.095 diameter drill bit will provide for a starter pin with enough slop so you don't have to fight to get every piece perfectly positioned. Just push that drill bit free one surface at a time as you slide in the trigger pin. Final step is to re-install the inertia lever and that is a bit of a challenge the first time. BTW the sears are restrained by the trigger levers at this point so you won't have any sear issues when you remove the inertial lever pin you have taped in place. To install the trigger lever you have to go in a bit towards the rear of the cutout in the sears and actually force the sears down by something in the range of 0.010 inch. Doing this will get that tiny short spring extension started properly in the slot for it. BTW, I was almost a full hour trying to get this in place.
Good news is that once you have everything in place and working properly you will have a 686 that could fire 22 shorts and still reset the trigger every single time.
wonder if the firing pin after hitting primer goes back? to make gun easy to open?
Wonderfull! My father have problems with the second shot. Based on this I'm quite sure I can help him.
I have a 686 Beretta silver pigeon when I'm shooting the gun opens up what could be this problem I keep the gun extremely clean
What diameter punch are you pushing the pin out that holds the safety in?
Good vid. Have a new 686 20 bore with auto safety. Would love to change to manual
Thank you, This was soooooooooo helpful,
Looks like my five year old Jig Saw puzzle; LoL besides all this I made my own parts of old guns or shotguns that parts are unavailable due to factory closing down; it takes me days to get the right size to fit and adjust. I wouldn`t do it for a price but for my collections of my guns only. Greeting from Malta-Europe.
Thank you
Perfect, many thanks!
Does anyone know what types of "Brownells thin bits" that is used in the video? I can see that there are three different types, but not their blade diameter and thickness.
I ask because i dont want to by the whole set, and only need the bits on my 686.
Found it!
Specifically you need a magna tip 120-1 for the lock out screw (#120) this bit is 0.120 wide and will need to be filed down to about .100 wide (I don't see that magna-tips come in a 100 -1 bit). You'll need a .210 - 2 bit for the rear post screw #54 under the safety slide, and you'll need a .340 - 1 for the trigger plate screw #55. The -1 bits have a 0.020 tip thickness, the -2 bits are .025.
Love my 686.
Only half a job. What about top lever removal ?
Hi John, can you make a video on adjusting the LOP on a Gracoil recoil pad.
Length of Pull Adjustments
If you have a GC15LP Gracoil with length of pull adjustment, use a 7/64 allen wrench to loosen the 2 screws on the right side of the stock plate, then turn the center shaft to your desired stock length and retighten.
Thanks John, I'll be trying it this weekend.
Loved the video, you guys have great chemistry. However I was hoping you were going to get into removal of the locking lugs. My lock lever sits pretty well straight and I'm going to need to replace the lugs with a .015 or .030 oversize. Is that much of a job?
I haven't had the need to delve deeper into the receiver to do things like removing the firing pins, cocking rods, opening lever and spring or the locking "U" bolt. When I have to do those things we will video it and make an episode out of it.
Glen Pruett Just saw your comment, regarding the locking bolt you would need to check if it is standard of already oversize this is done by checking if there is a number 1 on the back of it. this part will require fitting correctly by a competent gunsmith.
Thanks for that, it's really useful information.
Do many people shoot clays in the US? You seem to produce a lot of media about handguns and rifles, but very little on sporting shotguns.
John,
Is there any difference if the gun is a EELL with false side plates? I followed your directions, but the trigger group doesn't drop out. Thanks
Good video, would be better if Steve spouted lest waffle.
como puedo quitar la llave de apertura de cañon?
Geez Steve, quit saying umm. Driving me crazy.
So unpleasant is one of the voice to the extent of nauseating.
Wow!!
7 minutes of hubbub...get to it already
🎉❤
Please take your time and put the receiver in a vise when using your screwdriver on tight screws. After I watched your bit slip 2x I had to stop watching. Too easy to scratch the receiver and the bit does not get full engagement when you are holding things in your hand and screw to driver alignment is all over the place
Oh Man !.... I cringe watching that shaky handed guy disassemble that Beretta.... Geese .... I cant watch. .... You can see he buggered up(damaged) those screw heads. What a hack....
Get a shotgun that has mechanical triggers and be done with these inertia pieces of shit. I have two Berettas - a 695 and a DT11. I also have three Browning 725's. I honestly don't think the extra money I paid for the Berettas makes sense. But I love both!