I used to work for an independent garage specialising in high-end Mercedes. The wealthier people are the less they care. That's why on most modern high end cars they have systems, like automatic oil level monitoring and service schedule reminders, to protect the engine from neglect.
Maybe it got sold to a 2nd owner (judging by those god-awful wheels) that had no taste and didn't do maintenance unless there's smoke billowing out from under the hood. Perhaps someone was too broke for a used Escalade and got this instead.
Lot of people who have big bucks usually don't care much about maintenance items on cars. As soon as something goes wrong, they'll most likely just go get another car like it's nothing. Especially if it's got high miles on it. I'veSeen it happen 100 times. It's crazy.😆
Regarding the motor..."I think she'll be okay"! Smoke at startup used to be a valve guide problem but not likely a problem with an engine that age. Given she was run out of oil let her break back in.
The 6.2 has some piston slap when cold, normal. I’d just put some good synthetic oil in it and run it till she goes. Synthetic oil isn’t too expensive these days since most cars require it now.
Full synthetic oils can be purchased at Walmart of all places 5 quarts will run like 20-30 bucks! To expensive, yeah ok when you pay fucking valvoline 100+ fucking dollars for an oil change. Which is something anyone should be able to do in thier driveway. 😒
It’s a 218k mile gmc that was run out of oil. Engine needs a full rebuild. Not worth it unless someone wants to drive it around consuming quarts of oil as is but that will just cause other constant issues
@@Terminxman I know someone who had a similar issue in a ford pickup, owner before him ran It almost out of oil,oil filter was loose.. he did an oil change, drive it a little bit, changed it again , with some lucas in with the new oil, he still has it over a year later, with 197k on it, knocks, but runs fine,he just got another motor he's building he's running it like it is till the motor he's building for it is done, but he's just kept clean oil and filter in it, changed the coolant, tranny fluid and filter, rear diff fluid, and gave it a full tune up so it would run as good as it could
@@richsweeney1115 by all means if it runs decent and you need a driver then run it till it dies but I'm just saying there's no real "saving" the engine without a rebuild.
Exactly, just run it till it's up to temp and let it drain for a good while. Put new oil and additives and go from there. Flushing in a worn out engine is a definite no no!
Depends on the prior history, if it's always been kept up on the oil changes then a flush likely won't harm. If it's been abused and intervals skipped/stretched then it can be a killer.
@@danmackintosh6325 true..but its not worth the risk if you can't verify history. The fact that the current owner let the oil level get that low isn't an encouraging sign, along with its 218k. Doing a flush is just a too much of gamble if you really want to prolong the life of the current engine imho.
@@danmackintosh6325 I've always service my transmission even when people tell me not to never had a problem yet LOL currently have a 2000 Buick LeSabre with 285 thousand miles just hit it today service for transmission with no problem I've had several high-mileage Vehicles service transmission did nothing but make it better but I've heard the horror stories
smoke on startup is a valve cover baffle issue, they have issues building up with sludge and sucking oil into the intake. send a couple cans of brake clean down the pcv hoses and flush them.
@@MXguy95 these modern sfi engines dont wear rings and cylinder walls out at 200k too often. Id pull the heads and give this guy a valve job and refresh if the smoking gets worse or doesn’t go away. High mileage oil may help swell up some seals but it probably wont stop if from smoking upon startup. The truck does seem a little neglected overall unfortunately.
You never know. It could be something as simple as the technician under filled it alot during the last oil change. That combined with the burning then made her run out....
your on the right track for the solution. thicker oil, probably wouldn't even flush it, and add a quart of lucas. she will purr like a kitten for atleast a year if the owners keep that up. also I don't know if the pcv valve is built into the valve cover like the 5.3s but if it is that will cause it to smoke and burn oil if clogged
Man jay listening to you talk is how my folks lived there whole life we did whatever we could to get by and my dad running he’s own businesses to keep us kids feed and we never went with out . I couldn’t have asked for a better child hood . We were below middle class but in the 90s who could tell now today running my own business with more cash flow I run my house hold the same we live like we don’t have it and get by now we have five acres and the kids tare it up with there dirt bikes and running wild . My dad passed three years ago and there isn’t a day I touch my paint brush and can’t thank him enough for teaching me a trade and working with your hands . There is no other way to live in my eyes and I don’t need anything fancy . Maybe I do but I never grew up with it and I’m still here working in million dollar businesses and there asking me questions. Your my favorite channel because your working with your dad and it’s the simple things .. enjoy spending time with your dad man I promise you it goes way to fast . Happy holidays man I’m just going back through old videos to past the time . Sorry for the long rant on a year old video
Your plan sounds like a good one but there is one criteria I'd modify. This engine is rated for an SAE 0w20 oil. Given consumption is predominantly when cold I'd pick an oil with a higher initial (cold) weighting first (e.g. SAE 20w20, which is actually marketed as 20 weight monograde oil.) The reason for this is that a higher viscosity oil when hot (e.g. SAE Xw40) is that the volume of oil delibered may not be sufficient to lubricate the top-end. Although it may seem wasteful I'd also go for full synthetic because it has the minimum shear resistance, have the client check the level every day and return within a week. If it's eating the bearings at that point you still have the chance to save it by doing an in-frame main and rod bearing replacement (assuming it's tbe bottom end, always worth checking play on the cylinders before you start.) I wouldn't fix the oil leaks for that first week because if the engine ceases it's money down the drain for the client. Hopefully in a weeks time all you'll find is lovely clean oil in the sump. In frame bearing replacements are a pain to do and very hit and miss. 😅 Love the channel, nice work! 🙂
@@robbie71w agreed I got a 2002 Toyota camera in my yard with 400k on it, my Silverado with the 6.2 has 140k on it I got it with 90k it’s been a pretty good work horse as well.
Back a few years ago my mom had an 04 5.3 burban when I was in tech school. Called me and said my cars overheating so I told her to pull over and stay on the phone. Once she came to a stop I could hear the thing knocking over speaker phone! She happened to pull over in a pretty dangerous spot with a lot of cars flying by in low visibility, so I told her to just drive to my school and we’d figure it out. Long story short it ended up only having half a quart of oil and half the coolant had sprayed out from it overheating. Put 5 quarts of diesel oil in it and topped off the coolant and she ran perfect so noises at all. Can’t kill a 5.3 Chev
I think you can save it. I've saved 5.7 aluminum LS's that were worse off than this. I'd check the PCV and maybe consider putting a new one on to see if that helps with the oil burning at startup - it may not be worn rings / valve seals. Had that a couple times myself.
1 you mentioned it was cold outside so that’s part of the smoking on startup. 2 those trucks have issues with the pcv valve in the drivers side valve cover that gets clogged and causes smoking on startup and can cause excessive oil consumption. That’s probably why it’s smoking and why the oil was low.
I own a Yukon that's identical to this one same color and everything. It now has over 205,000 miles on it and the engine still runs very quietly without any smoke at all. Even at a cold startup, it doesn't tick or tap at all without any smoke. These are very reliable SUVs if taken care of. 👌🏾
I had a 6.2 that ticked/knocked when cold from the time it was brand new. My dealer and also GM said that was piston slap when cold and was normal and would not hurt it. It would go away in just a few seconds ,never did seem to hurt anything as long as I had it.
On my truck the slight whining sound started after I had the clutch fan replaced it draws a lot of air, but I do need to check my front diff oil level. My 5.3 chatters a little bit on startup too it's got 200,000 miles too.
Honestly I would fix any exterior oil leaks like valve cover gasket and check to see if the oil pan gasket is leaking ,make sure drain plug and crush washer is not leaking . I would change the oil and I’d use a good quality high mileage oil / along with a good oil additive may help .
Normally I would say the variable valve timing clearances would get in the way of putting a heavier oil in. However you don't really have much of a choice so you could probably get a year out of it at least by doing that. I say go for it.
I had something like this happen. Had a lady with an XV30 Toyota Camry with the 2AZ-FE come in for an oil change. When I go to pull it in, the oil light is on, the thing misfires badly, and it's ticking like mad. Basically no oil left when I checked. She was lucky she didn't blow the poor thing up driving it like that. She also went 50k past the service interval on her plugs and coils, so we changed those too, that fixed the misfire. And believe it or not, she comes in a week later with that car overheating. And we found that there's no coolant in it.
Jay, I have a 07 denali with 228000 miles. It has piston slap when cold but goes away when warm. Oil pressure is about 50psi when cold idle and about 30psi cold. Going down the road has about 38psi. I run 10w40. Truck still runs and drives great. Change oil and I think she will be fine. I would not flush it.
I don't think anyone is going to believe this story, but I used to have a GMT900 Suburban with the 5.3. One day driving to work I smelled a bit of oil burning. When I got there, I stepped out and noticed it was chattering a bit. As soon as I noticed I shut it off and checked the oil level. It was barely on the stick at all, so I had my dad come drop some oil off. I topped it off before driving home, and I never smelt it again and the oil level never went down again. It had been about 4 months since the last oil change at the time, made it another 7 with no change in oil level and I never added anymore (though I made a habit of checking it often). I had that truck another two years and it never repeated the problem.
I'd save it.Change the oil filter,run the Cleaner/flush,and it may be ok.It didn't rattle when you revved,and let off,so it should last.It's nice to know there's honest people still.
I’d skip the motor flush. Just use some quality high mileage 10W-40 synthetic oil. Also, maybe try substituting a quart for a bottle of stop-leak. If the smoke on startup is the valve guides, the stop-leak might help them.
@@ogalief I've not heard that, mine still works after 200k+ miles. I guess it's still a possibility, but I would think that it would fail safe by continually saying it's low.
@@richsweeney1115 Maybe, I've also got an 08' Yukon Denali with the same motor and 85k miles. I've never had it low enough on oil for the light to come on, so I can't say I've seen how those systems are.
cut the old oil filter open to see how much metal is there. Flush it. Refill with 15-40 truck oil. Fix the leaks. Change oil again in 2 or 3K and check filter again.
That smoke at cold crank is from bad valve stem seats. Oil seeps around the valves into the cylinders and burns when the engine is started. My 6.0 was doing this horribly after 584,000 miles of highway driving and was less than $500 to have the heads redone. You can't kill the bottom end though!
I always thought putting thicker oil in was a good idea on worn engines but never acted on it.. Since you mentioned it I looked it up and sure enough, lots of folks do that to their cars! Thanks for the tip haha
40 psi is always common for idle on gm engines. a flush will help clear the little nooks and crannies between gaps and will allow for better flow throughout the engine.
The smoke when it first starts looks like a possible bad valve seal.. I had a fox body with the ranger style engine that would do that when you first started it. Eventually it got to the point where if you sat in traffic and took off there was a huge cloud of smoke from the oil burning off the valves.
Very true a motor that has 200,000 miles you need to check the oil inbetween oil changes. It bothers me that "some" women don't know how or unwilling to learn how to check the oil and risk the chance of ruining a good engine.
@@shanegiggie What does her being a woman literally have anything to do with this? If a man did this you wouldn’t have brought up gender but was soon as it’s a woman you do. 🤦🏽♂️
@@justenzo6342 Maybe you should reread my comment. The motor went because it ran out of oil. You need to check it doesn't matter if it's man or woman. Most men know how some women are unwilling to learn how because they want to do everything thereself blah blah blah.
BTW; My Mom had new tires put on,and they used air-impact,and didn't torque correct.They destroyed her wheel bearings.That's what the hum sounds like.Her van had under 50K miles.Since this person already had axles,etc.,I'd check the bearings while it's lifted.
These are notorious for burning oil. There is an issue with the stock PCV valve location and i believe there is a new designed valve cover that fixes this.... Also do the fuel management delete.
Think it's the PVC valve on the drivers side valve cover stopped up, causing positive pressure pushing the oil out of all the seals? I've had 3 LS engines do that with higher mileage.
id say it seems like it could be okay with a flush and some thicker oil but it could develop a knock in couple years because of the wear it got from running with no oil. The noise could also be the lifters from no oil seeming how they are hydraulic lifters correct me if im wrong but they do not like running out of oil more than other engines
Drivers side valve cover change it. The pcv valve is built into it and the new valve cover will have the new updated pcv valve in it. It should stop the oil burning check it out it worked on my truck no more oil burning
What have you got to lose? I’m not much of a believer in engine flushing.... but I’m open to learn something new. Definitely add some Lucas additive with the oil change. I don’t know if there is much benefit to switching to synthetic oil this late in the game. Oh.... if she looks like she’s gonna live, maybe clean up the headlights for them. Can’t imagine much light is passing through those lenses!
If money's tight, put flush it and run it a while longer. If it blows, you got a little more use out of it. Concerning about the whirring noise and low speed, so that will be expensive to fix as well. If no loan on it, drive it.
I don't like motor flush unless you planning on tearing down engine , it might cause old seals to leak and other problems . An oil change with a good full synthetic oil and filter and maybe an additive .
Don’t the flex fuel ones have the cylinder cut off like 2 to 4 cylinders to “save gas” at certain speeds cuz some people had issues and they would start knocking from them sticking and had them tuned and had that program turned off
Save it, it's a good truck with a lot of life in it still. 218,000 miles is nothing, I've seen double that on the previous generation GMT800's. Thanks for the video.
It has some rod bearing chatter. You caught it in time to do a bearing roll by just replacing the main and rod bearings with new standard sizes. I've never had a problem just replacing the bearings with new standard sizes on engines like these unless something is obviously torn up. I don't even plastigauge stuff as long as I'm just taking old standard bearings out and putting new standard bearings in. I just go by "look and feel" of things.
I would do a flush like you said and do another one with lifter cleaner followed by another motor flush. Then add the thicker weight oil and liquid molly. The oil burning is most likely from valve stem seals. Easy repair. The humming sound while driving sound like a wheel bearing
@@MXguy95 unless something is up with front diff there’s no way those front bearing are good with that sound. You could send the engine oil out for testing to see if there’s massive internal ware from being out of oil. That will let you know for sure if it will need a new engine.
I bet the valve seals got burned up and it most likely has front and rear seal leaks, I would drop the pan, check the bearings, scope the cylinders to see if there is any honing marks left, and replace the valve seals if everything else looks good above.
Yeah, from how it sounds you should be able to keep it going a while. One thing I'd suggest though, cut open the old oil filter after you flush it & see what's inside for metal shavings/debris. Might give a better indicator of how much life's been taken off it with this little incident, no matter how it occurred.
other possible option, I know you said you wouldn't rebuild it but if there's a lot of bearing material in the filter I'd consider pulling the pan, making sure it's not already spun one & then rolling in some fresh bearings. Won't help the top end wear but might help get a few more years out of it as long as the oil level's kept on top of.
It's probably using oil. They need to check the oil regularly and add as needed. I would change the oil, use the right grade of oil, and maybe add some lucas. *Most important is that the owner checks the oil regularly!* If damage has been done, you wont save it, but it might buy some time.
Look at the oil that comes out and see how much metal is in it (grey sheen or outright metal flakes like in paint). That will give you an idea of what you're up against.
Sucks that with over 200k miles nobody was checking the oil periodically on that truck... and no 'low oil' light on the dash?? The shops that did the axles/ball joints didn't bother to check the oil level real quick when they saw the pan leak and blue smoke??
I wonder about the place that changed the oil. Some of these places have poorly trained folks doing the work. I once had my oil changed at a place, drove to my business a couple of miles away. As I looked back at my truck going inside, I noticed a wet spot under it. To cut to the chase, I popped the hood and reached down to the filter and made several twists till it was properly tight. I’d wonder if the same happened here. 🤔
Personally I would not flush an engine of that mileage. It could end up knocking more as all the carbon build up over the miles builds into the wear if you know what I mean. Flushing it would potentially open up the wear and cause more clatter. Agree with the 10w 40 oil, maybe even a 15w 40, but I think 10w 40 should be fine.
Every time I get those trucks in my shop they are always low on oil . I will only do full synthetic oil changes for them. Holy crap that thing has a bad rear in it too . Or a bad hub . Check my oil ??? Will I get dirty doing that ?
I wouldn't flush the motor I used engine flush before and my motor started to knock and didn't knock before I flushed it. I think that the oil washed off the bearings causing the knock. I would run a half quart of transmission fluid in it before you change the oil and run hi mileage oil and some lucas and run it till it pukes.
Do what you said. Run 🏃♂️ till tax time next year & swap the motor, until that trans axle in the front goes out. I’d be looking for a new axle in the front also.
I definitely would not flush it. I would drain it, new oil and filter at least 2 times to clean any bearing material out. Then add 10w30 with lucus. Just my 2 cents.
@@richsweeney1115 True that.. But jumping on the PCV is a whole lot easier and cheaper than seals + guides. I've seen the vast majority of these be remedied by just replacing the PCV valve
As a cosmetic thing try to polish those headlights or get new ones because if you ever try to sell it that will bring up the resell value pretty high lol it wood make a super good vid
i run 15-w-40 Delo in everything I own, from 2.2 Cavaliers to Northstars to my 6.0 LS, and have yet to have an engine failure or any oil related issues
Imma try! And I’d like to thank you for sticking around! I’ve seen your comments come up for a long time now and it’s nice seeing familiar faces here in the comments. Thanks!
It's always better to go the easy route first and then the hard if it proves necessary. I know you'd do that anyway even if you hadn't ask our opinion Jay. 👍😊
I can't understand how such an expensive car was maintained so poorly.
I used to work for an independent garage specialising in high-end Mercedes. The wealthier people are the less they care. That's why on most modern high end cars they have systems, like automatic oil level monitoring and service schedule reminders, to protect the engine from neglect.
@@thomas316 I think those reminders are a good idea, in my opinion.
Maybe it got sold to a 2nd owner (judging by those god-awful wheels) that had no taste and didn't do maintenance unless there's smoke billowing out from under the hood. Perhaps someone was too broke for a used Escalade and got this instead.
Lot of people who have big bucks usually don't care much about maintenance items on cars. As soon as something goes wrong, they'll most likely just go get another car like it's nothing. Especially if it's got high miles on it. I'veSeen it happen 100 times. It's crazy.😆
or it was a lease ;)
Check the front diff fluid to be safe, that could be the whirring noise you’re hearing while driving
Hadn’t crossed my mind! Glad you mentioned it! I’ll check tomorrow!
I was thinking the same thing...I had a diff that pushed all its fluid out due to a plugged vent. Fresh fluid and a new vent tube fixed it!
Sounds to me like wheel bearings!
Regarding the motor..."I think she'll be okay"!
Smoke at startup used to be a valve guide problem but not likely a problem with an engine that age. Given she was run out of oil let her break back in.
Could be wheel bearings or a bearing in the diff if it's awd
The 6.2 has some piston slap when cold, normal. I’d just put some good synthetic oil in it and run it till she goes. Synthetic oil isn’t too expensive these days since most cars require it now.
Full synthetic oils can be purchased at Walmart of all places
5 quarts will run like 20-30 bucks!
To expensive, yeah ok when you pay fucking valvoline 100+ fucking dollars for an oil change.
Which is something anyone should be able to do in thier driveway. 😒
@@thatfordguy2268 o
That Ford Guy cool
Dont flush it wil die quickly, just change it, it has good oil pressure leave it alone, use like you say 10w 40
Always try to save unless it’s useless. That’s the difference between a mechanic and a parts changer Good luck we are pulling for you
It’s a 218k mile gmc that was run out of oil. Engine needs a full rebuild. Not worth it unless someone wants to drive it around consuming quarts of oil as is but that will just cause other constant issues
@@Terminxman I know someone who had a similar issue in a ford pickup, owner before him ran It almost out of oil,oil filter was loose.. he did an oil change, drive it a little bit, changed it again , with some lucas in with the new oil, he still has it over a year later, with 197k on it, knocks, but runs fine,he just got another motor he's building he's running it like it is till the motor he's building for it is done, but he's just kept clean oil and filter in it, changed the coolant, tranny fluid and filter, rear diff fluid, and gave it a full tune up so it would run as good as it could
@@richsweeney1115 by all means if it runs decent and you need a driver then run it till it dies but I'm just saying there's no real "saving" the engine without a rebuild.
I drive things till they die lol
@@chadharmon5716 me too I do that also lol
All I can say is don’t flush it with that kind of mileage and already displaying issues you’ll just add to the list of problems.
Exactly, just run it till it's up to temp and let it drain for a good while. Put new oil and additives and go from there.
Flushing in a worn out engine is a definite no no!
You sir are correct.
Depends on the prior history, if it's always been kept up on the oil changes then a flush likely won't harm. If it's been abused and intervals skipped/stretched then it can be a killer.
@@danmackintosh6325 true..but its not worth the risk if you can't verify history. The fact that the current owner let the oil level get that low isn't an encouraging sign, along with its 218k.
Doing a flush is just a too much of gamble if you really want to prolong the life of the current engine imho.
@@danmackintosh6325 I've always service my transmission even when people tell me not to never had a problem yet LOL currently have a 2000 Buick LeSabre with 285 thousand miles just hit it today service for transmission with no problem I've had several high-mileage Vehicles service transmission did nothing but make it better but I've heard the horror stories
smoke on startup is a valve cover baffle issue, they have issues building up with sludge and sucking oil into the intake. send a couple cans of brake clean down the pcv hoses and flush them.
Puff of smoke at startup could be valve seals and/or worn valve guides if it goes away within a couple seconds.
My thoughts exactly.
@@MXguy95 these modern sfi engines dont wear rings and cylinder walls out at 200k too often. Id pull the heads and give this guy a valve job and refresh if the smoking gets worse or doesn’t go away. High mileage oil may help swell up some seals but it probably wont stop if from smoking upon startup. The truck does seem a little neglected overall unfortunately.
In the words of Bob The Builder: YES WE CAN! 😆
Gah that was a great childhood show!
@@MXguy95 It was one of my favorite preschool shows growing up as a toddler in the early to mid 2000s in Chicago xD
I was thinking the same thing when I saw the title
@@MXguy95 You should ask her what gas she puts in it I think these require 89
Bob: cab we fix it?
Bobs wife: no bob, just sign the divorce papers
gmc "denial"
Hjhj
Yes, best trim level.
You never know. It could be something as simple as the technician under filled it alot during the last oil change. That combined with the burning then made her run out....
your on the right track for the solution. thicker oil, probably wouldn't even flush it, and add a quart of lucas. she will purr like a kitten for atleast a year if the owners keep that up. also I don't know if the pcv valve is built into the valve cover like the 5.3s but if it is that will cause it to smoke and burn oil if clogged
I'd say its fine so long as the owner doesn't list it for sale saying "Runs great, oil changed every 3,000 miles"😂
LOL YES
Man jay listening to you talk is how my folks lived there whole life we did whatever we could to get by and my dad running he’s own businesses to keep us kids feed and we never went with out . I couldn’t have asked for a better child hood . We were below middle class but in the 90s who could tell now today running my own business with more cash flow I run my house hold the same we live like we don’t have it and get by now we have five acres and the kids tare it up with there dirt bikes and running wild . My dad passed three years ago and there isn’t a day I touch my paint brush and can’t thank him enough for teaching me a trade and working with your hands . There is no other way to live in my eyes and I don’t need anything fancy . Maybe I do but I never grew up with it and I’m still here working in million dollar businesses and there asking me questions. Your my favorite channel because your working with your dad and it’s the simple things .. enjoy spending time with your dad man I promise you it goes way to fast . Happy holidays man I’m just going back through old videos to past the time . Sorry for the long rant on a year old video
Do valve guide seals to help with the oil burn on the cold start up.
Running an engine flush will make it worse. Its almost the same logic as flushing a transmission that has never had an oil change
Yeah hows that?
Totally agree it sounds good. I drive it til the end. And with that kind of miles change that oil for sure every 3000.
Your plan sounds like a good one but there is one criteria I'd modify. This engine is rated for an SAE 0w20 oil. Given consumption is predominantly when cold I'd pick an oil with a higher initial (cold) weighting first (e.g. SAE 20w20, which is actually marketed as 20 weight monograde oil.) The reason for this is that a higher viscosity oil when hot (e.g. SAE Xw40) is that the volume of oil delibered may not be sufficient to lubricate the top-end. Although it may seem wasteful I'd also go for full synthetic because it has the minimum shear resistance, have the client check the level every day and return within a week. If it's eating the bearings at that point you still have the chance to save it by doing an in-frame main and rod bearing replacement (assuming it's tbe bottom end, always worth checking play on the cylinders before you start.) I wouldn't fix the oil leaks for that first week because if the engine ceases it's money down the drain for the client.
Hopefully in a weeks time all you'll find is lovely clean oil in the sump. In frame bearing replacements are a pain to do and very hit and miss. 😅
Love the channel, nice work! 🙂
I have same 6.2 with 404k miles. I'd flush, fix leaks, and run heavier synthetic.
Holy damn, seeing this makes me feel better because I can never find anything on how long these old school 6.2 engines last.
Best reply I’ve seen. I wouldn’t be opposed to running some 15-40 for 2-3,000 miles after the leaks are fixed.
You're lucky....it's rare you see anything but an import go that long unfortunately. Obviously you maintain it well, but still
...
@@robbie71w agreed I got a 2002 Toyota camera in my yard with 400k on it, my Silverado with the 6.2 has 140k on it I got it with 90k it’s been a pretty good work horse as well.
It's an LS seen them with over 300'000 miles on them. Hub bearings are loud.
Back a few years ago my mom had an 04 5.3 burban when I was in tech school. Called me and said my cars overheating so I told her to pull over and stay on the phone. Once she came to a stop I could hear the thing knocking over speaker phone! She happened to pull over in a pretty dangerous spot with a lot of cars flying by in low visibility, so I told her to just drive to my school and we’d figure it out. Long story short it ended up only having half a quart of oil and half the coolant had sprayed out from it overheating. Put 5 quarts of diesel oil in it and topped off the coolant and she ran perfect so noises at all. Can’t kill a 5.3 Chev
I think you can save it. I've saved 5.7 aluminum LS's that were worse off than this. I'd check the PCV and maybe consider putting a new one on to see if that helps with the oil burning at startup - it may not be worn rings / valve seals. Had that a couple times myself.
Add “Engine Restore”
Do 2 bottles of the 8 cylinder formula. Stuff works magic on GM engine
I agree!
All GM's or just the newer engines?
Bon ami does the same thing lol
Engine sounds great.
1 you mentioned it was cold outside so that’s part of the smoking on startup. 2 those trucks have issues with the pcv valve in the drivers side valve cover that gets clogged and causes smoking on startup and can cause excessive oil consumption.
That’s probably why it’s smoking and why the oil was low.
11:42 lol did you see that weird GMC Envoy go by , one of the ones with the removable roof thing
Oh wow, you’re right. It’s so rare to see the XUV Envoys.
@@97I30T see them all the time here in Cali
Geez. More powerful than my 5.7L Tahoe. I'd still save it tho.
Well.... I mean yea. The 4.8 LS makes more power then the old 5.7s these 6.2s are a whole nother animal
Yeah. True. At least the Tahoe still kicks ass for a 21 year old vehicle.
I own a Yukon that's identical to this one same color and everything. It now has over 205,000 miles on it and the engine still runs very quietly without any smoke at all. Even at a cold startup, it doesn't tick or tap at all without any smoke. These are very reliable SUVs if taken care of. 👌🏾
I had a 6.2 that ticked/knocked when cold from the time it was brand new. My dealer and also GM said that was piston slap when cold and was normal and would not hurt it. It would go away in just a few seconds ,never did seem to hurt anything as long as I had it.
On my truck the slight whining sound started after I had the clutch fan replaced it draws a lot of air, but I do need to check my front diff oil level. My 5.3 chatters a little bit on startup too it's got 200,000 miles too.
BMWs are bad about the "whining wind" noise after installing new fan clutches, even factory spec BMW replacement ones do it too
Honestly I would fix any exterior oil leaks like valve cover gasket and check to see if the oil pan gasket is leaking ,make sure drain plug and crush washer is not leaking . I would change the oil and I’d use a good quality high mileage oil / along with a good oil additive may help .
Normally I would say the variable valve timing clearances would get in the way of putting a heavier oil in. However you don't really have much of a choice so you could probably get a year out of it at least by doing that. I say go for it.
I see a video from this guy, I click to watch. Everytime.
I had something like this happen. Had a lady with an XV30 Toyota Camry with the 2AZ-FE come in for an oil change. When I go to pull it in, the oil light is on, the thing misfires badly, and it's ticking like mad. Basically no oil left when I checked. She was lucky she didn't blow the poor thing up driving it like that. She also went 50k past the service interval on her plugs and coils, so we changed those too, that fixed the misfire. And believe it or not, she comes in a week later with that car overheating. And we found that there's no coolant in it.
Jay, I have a 07 denali with 228000 miles. It has piston slap when cold but goes away when warm. Oil pressure is about 50psi when cold idle and about 30psi cold. Going down the road has about 38psi. I run 10w40. Truck still runs and drives great. Change oil and I think she will be fine. I would not flush it.
Needs a new home. Someone who would take of the old girl.😊
I don't think anyone is going to believe this story, but I used to have a GMT900 Suburban with the 5.3. One day driving to work I smelled a bit of oil burning. When I got there, I stepped out and noticed it was chattering a bit. As soon as I noticed I shut it off and checked the oil level. It was barely on the stick at all, so I had my dad come drop some oil off. I topped it off before driving home, and I never smelt it again and the oil level never went down again. It had been about 4 months since the last oil change at the time, made it another 7 with no change in oil level and I never added anymore (though I made a habit of checking it often). I had that truck another two years and it never repeated the problem.
It’s the seal on the oil pickup tube making it have low oil pressure
Flush, change oil, and then send it... lol
Save it my mom 5.3 did that we switch to a high mile oil been running good since
I'd save it.Change the oil filter,run the Cleaner/flush,and it may be ok.It didn't rattle when you revved,and let off,so it should last.It's nice to know there's honest people still.
As you say if it lasts another year before needing a new engine then go for it.
I have a 08 6.2 denali. Lots of ticks and piston slap. 162k miles. Oil pickup seals go bad and oil pan gaskets. I replaced both on mine.
I have 08 yukon Denali that had the blue smoke on startup, a updated valve cover fixed that. Fixed oil consumption.
I think it's a good idea Jay to flush it and put Castrol 10w-40 oil with additives on it. The start-up blue smoke is typical valve stems seals.
I’d skip the motor flush. Just use some quality high mileage 10W-40 synthetic oil. Also, maybe try substituting a quart for a bottle of stop-leak. If the smoke on startup is the valve guides, the stop-leak might help them.
My 07 Tahoe LTZ used to tell me when it needed oil so they were just ignoring it because it would have told them when it Needed oil
Even my 02' base model suburban did that, I find it hard to believe that they missed that, unless it was malfunctioning for whatever reason.
I heard somewhere that the oil warning system in those trucks is prone to crapping out
@@ogalief I've not heard that, mine still works after 200k+ miles. I guess it's still a possibility, but I would think that it would fail safe by continually saying it's low.
@@Tracert-mc1hu newer isn't always better,maybe the system is newer than yours and they crap out.
@@richsweeney1115 Maybe, I've also got an 08' Yukon Denali with the same motor and 85k miles. I've never had it low enough on oil for the light to come on, so I can't say I've seen how those systems are.
cut the old oil filter open to see how much metal is there. Flush it. Refill with 15-40 truck oil. Fix the leaks. Change oil again in 2 or 3K and check filter again.
That smoke at cold crank is from bad valve stem seats. Oil seeps around the valves into the cylinders and burns when the engine is started. My 6.0 was doing this horribly after 584,000 miles of highway driving and was less than $500 to have the heads redone. You can't kill the bottom end though!
I always thought putting thicker oil in was a good idea on worn engines but never acted on it.. Since you mentioned it I looked it up and sure enough, lots of folks do that to their cars! Thanks for the tip haha
40 psi is always common for idle on gm engines. a flush will help clear the little nooks and crannies between gaps and will allow for better flow throughout the engine.
Do those head lights while your at it . ✌ save that motor!
This 6.2s are almost bulletproof. Better maintenance will keep her alive!
The smoke when it first starts looks like a possible bad valve seal.. I had a fox body with the ranger style engine that would do that when you first started it. Eventually it got to the point where if you sat in traffic and took off there was a huge cloud of smoke from the oil burning off the valves.
I think you have a good plan flush , thicken up the oil for the old motor it should be fine.
Hey Jay! Definitely worth repairing. Stay warm! :)
Thanks buddy! I’m trying to! Running low on firewood this week haha
Judging from the looks of the dash, that thing needs more than just oil.
Very true a motor that has 200,000 miles you need to check the oil inbetween oil changes. It bothers me that "some" women don't know how or unwilling to learn how to check the oil and risk the chance of ruining a good engine.
@@shanegiggie What does her being a woman literally have anything to do with this? If a man did this you wouldn’t have brought up gender but was soon as it’s a woman you do. 🤦🏽♂️
@@justenzo6342 Maybe you should reread my comment. The motor went because it ran out of oil. You need to check it doesn't matter if it's man or woman. Most men know how some women are unwilling to learn how because they want to do everything thereself blah blah blah.
@@shanegiggie Again there’s no need to bring up the fact that it’s a woman so you’re literally proving my point.
BTW; My Mom had new tires put on,and they used air-impact,and didn't torque correct.They destroyed her wheel bearings.That's what the hum sounds like.Her van had under 50K miles.Since this person already had axles,etc.,I'd check the bearings while it's lifted.
Oil pick up tube o ring, they tend to flatten out or crack causing oil pressure fluctuations
These are notorious for burning oil. There is an issue with the stock PCV valve location and i believe there is a new designed valve cover that fixes this.... Also do the fuel management delete.
Definitely worth saving ,not a bad looking unit.👍
Think it's the PVC valve on the drivers side valve cover stopped up, causing positive pressure pushing the oil out of all the seals? I've had 3 LS engines do that with higher mileage.
id say it seems like it could be okay with a flush and some thicker oil but it could develop a knock in couple years because of the wear it got from running with no oil. The noise could also be the lifters from no oil seeming how they are hydraulic lifters correct me if im wrong but they do not like running out of oil more than other engines
Drivers side valve cover change it. The pcv valve is built into it and the new valve cover will have the new updated pcv valve in it. It should stop the oil burning check it out it worked on my truck no more oil burning
I would also say get the DOD delete OBD Chip that might help and shorten oil change intervals
What have you got to lose? I’m not much of a believer in engine flushing.... but I’m open to learn something new. Definitely add some Lucas additive with the oil change. I don’t know if there is much benefit to switching to synthetic oil this late in the game. Oh.... if she looks like she’s gonna live, maybe clean up the headlights for them. Can’t imagine much light is passing through those lenses!
Gm had their Lm series engine with a sort of weak oil pump..and will tick at first start then slowly go away. My second gen 5.3L does that
My 3.4 GM engine ticks at idle but it’s an OHV engine you get that
If money's tight, put flush it and run it a while longer. If it blows, you got a little more use out of it. Concerning about the whirring noise and low speed, so that will be expensive to fix as well. If no loan on it, drive it.
I don't like motor flush unless you planning on tearing down engine , it might cause old seals to leak and other problems . An oil change with a good full synthetic oil and filter and maybe an additive .
Don’t the flex fuel ones have the cylinder cut off like 2 to 4 cylinders to “save gas” at certain speeds cuz some people had issues and they would start knocking from them sticking and had them tuned and had that program turned off
Save it, it's a good truck with a lot of life in it still.
218,000 miles is nothing, I've seen double that on the previous generation GMT800's.
Thanks for the video.
It has some rod bearing chatter. You caught it in time to do a bearing roll by just replacing the main and rod bearings with new standard sizes. I've never had a problem just replacing the bearings with new standard sizes on engines like these unless something is obviously torn up. I don't even plastigauge stuff as long as I'm just taking old standard bearings out and putting new standard bearings in. I just go by "look and feel" of things.
little bit of thicker oil and engine clean should be good enough if it doesn't sound like a diesel your doing pretty good.
I would do a flush like you said and do another one with lifter cleaner followed by another motor flush. Then add the thicker weight oil and liquid molly. The oil burning is most likely from valve stem seals. Easy repair. The humming sound while driving sound like a wheel bearing
Its suppose to have new ones in it. But honestly who knows! Guess we can add that to the list of fixes
@@MXguy95 unless something is up with front diff there’s no way those front bearing are good with that sound. You could send the engine oil out for testing to see if there’s massive internal ware from being out of oil. That will let you know for sure if it will need a new engine.
I bet the valve seals got burned up and it most likely has front and rear seal leaks, I would drop the pan, check the bearings, scope the cylinders to see if there is any honing marks left, and replace the valve seals if everything else looks good above.
I'd recommend piston bearing roll, motor honey wont fix the excess clearances caused by oil starvation
Burning oil is usually the PCV system in those. Its built into the valve cover. Buy s revised cover and i bet no more burn.
Yeah, from how it sounds you should be able to keep it going a while. One thing I'd suggest though, cut open the old oil filter after you flush it & see what's inside for metal shavings/debris. Might give a better indicator of how much life's been taken off it with this little incident, no matter how it occurred.
other possible option, I know you said you wouldn't rebuild it but if there's a lot of bearing material in the filter I'd consider pulling the pan, making sure it's not already spun one & then rolling in some fresh bearings. Won't help the top end wear but might help get a few more years out of it as long as the oil level's kept on top of.
A few others have mentioned opening up the filter! Might get to that tomorrow and see whats there !
It's probably using oil. They need to check the oil regularly and add as needed. I would change the oil, use the right grade of oil, and maybe add some lucas. *Most important is that the owner checks the oil regularly!*
If damage has been done, you wont save it, but it might buy some time.
I agree with you Jay good luck
Me showing up at the local wendys be like:
Powa Windows. Powa Door Locks. Leather Seats. 😂😂😂
Look at the oil that comes out and see how much metal is in it (grey sheen or outright metal flakes like in paint). That will give you an idea of what you're up against.
Sucks that with over 200k miles nobody was checking the oil periodically on that truck... and no 'low oil' light on the dash?? The shops that did the axles/ball joints didn't bother to check the oil level real quick when they saw the pan leak and blue smoke??
I wonder about the place that changed the oil. Some of these places have poorly trained folks doing the work. I once had my oil changed at a place, drove to my business a couple of miles away. As I looked back at my truck going inside, I noticed a wet spot under it. To cut to the chase, I popped the hood and reached down to the filter and made several twists till it was properly tight. I’d wonder if the same happened here. 🤔
I would fix it in my opinion it still runs strong
Personally I would not flush an engine of that mileage. It could end up knocking more as all the carbon build up over the miles builds into the wear if you know what I mean. Flushing it would potentially open up the wear and cause more clatter. Agree with the 10w 40 oil, maybe even a 15w 40, but I think 10w 40 should be fine.
Every time I get those trucks in my shop they are always low on oil . I will only do full synthetic oil changes for them. Holy crap that thing has a bad rear in it too . Or a bad hub . Check my oil ??? Will I get dirty doing that ?
I wouldn't flush the motor I used engine flush before and my motor started to knock and didn't knock before I flushed it. I think that the oil washed off the bearings causing the knock. I would run a half quart of transmission fluid in it before you change the oil and run hi mileage oil and some lucas and run it till it pukes.
I 150% agree with you. Don't flush it unless you wanna destroy the engine..
If anything just change the oil only...
Agree
Do what you said. Run 🏃♂️ till tax time next year & swap the motor, until that trans axle in the front goes out. I’d be looking for a new axle in the front also.
I would do a motor flush and see if that will help slow the oil consumption, along with the graphite oil additive
I definitely would not flush it. I would drain it, new oil and filter at least 2 times to clean any bearing material out. Then add 10w30 with lucus. Just my 2 cents.
Puff of smoke at startup is usually a good telltale sign of a stuck PCV on these Gen 4 engines.
Valve seals or.guides.....you gotta be lucky for it to just be pvc
@@richsweeney1115 True that.. But jumping on the PCV is a whole lot easier and cheaper than seals + guides. I've seen the vast majority of these be remedied by just replacing the PCV valve
Id love to have one of these
Same !
Me too
Why.....the motors aren't that good...people go for.looks alone too much
@@MXguy95 this is such a upgrade from my 07 durango all tho i love him he is my baby i put 18k miles on him in about a year
As a cosmetic thing try to polish those headlights or get new ones because if you ever try to sell it that will bring up the resell value pretty high lol it wood make a super good vid
Cold start should be past 40psi but those engines are pretty strong I’d flush it and put 15w40 diesel oil in her and call it a day
i run 15-w-40 Delo in everything I own, from 2.2 Cavaliers to Northstars to my 6.0 LS, and have yet to have an engine failure or any oil related issues
I run 15/40 in my 318 ram. Not a single problem. Only oil with zinc is diesel oil!!!
Do what you can to keep it going.
Imma try! And I’d like to thank you for sticking around! I’ve seen your comments come up for a long time now and it’s nice seeing familiar faces here in the comments. Thanks!
It's always better to go the easy route first and then the hard if it proves necessary. I know you'd do that anyway even if you hadn't ask our opinion Jay. 👍😊
I think the whirring noise is a hub bearing Jay. My car does that too.
put some motorkote in it, that stuff actually does significantly reduce friction. Projectfarm tested it