Yeah, "Will it machine?" sounds like a cool idea. I've often wondered how I would need to change settings or if a machine is even capable of cutting certain materials.
I followed Winston’s steps and got PERFECT cuts. I used a 1/8in down cut Amana foam cutting end mill. It cut like butter. I was using EVA foam tiles. This was for a case for a tool. It turned out perfect.
Which side did you attach to your table? The textured top or the smooth bottom? I’m wondering if one side sticks better, but also if one side gives a better initial cutting surface than the other. Thanks!
@@TanyaHakala I'm attaching smooth side with some cheap chinese double side tape, and it's not moving at all. I tried textured top to fix the same way but it's peeling off very easy
Thank you for a quick comparison of good / bad results for machining! It's very helpful to see the results side by side with a simple change like climb / conventional instead of something that has to be "tuned".
I cut the butt caps for fishing rods out of EVA on my SO3. But I get it in 1.5" square 12" long blocks and I cut a 2 inch section off and put it into a vise and just cut with my normal ball cutters. It does pretty good.
Ah the secret is out... Amana makes a great specialty foam tool for this, 46270 / 46270-K. I have also experimented with some Dremel bits and found similar successes. Your cuts are coming out really rough in some areas, the pockets look fine but the outside edges leave much to be desired. As for securing the EVA, Tape has been the worst, Honestly anything involving the wood sacrificial board was a bust. Enter my solution: Securing in a insulation foam sacrificial board, Forstner bit to level it out, and using tall T pins to secure the EVA to the foam. Gotta be strategic when placing the pins to prevent them hitting the workhead, but I have found massive success with cutting parts using pins to hold place. Currently experimenting with EVA foam carving, I'll be sure to contact y'all once I get some solid results.
Oh and THANK YOU!! I got into learning CNC thanks to your videos, Now I have a S3-XL thanks to a old work friend. Made a lot of my new workflow feel like a dream, I can't thank you enough!
I’ve cut foam for making custom toolbox inserts. Both on the Shapeoko and with a hand router. Looks like I need to upgrade my bits! That Datron makes a big difference
thank you! I've been searching all week for good information on routing foam including posting on your forum, maybe helped you get this video. haha Thanks again.
"Climb cut" refers to the flutes climbing the wall of the material, regardless of cutting toward the center or away from the center of the pocket. The important thing to remember, is that in CNC world, toolpaths are typically programmed to cut in Climb, UNLESS you're working with SOFT MATERAILS, which tend to shear more cleanly with Conventional without producing hairy/fuzzy walls.
Oh, man! I wish I’d seen this yesterday! I was putting the double sided tape on the foam. That was a pain in the neck, getting the backing off… I was using a lower density foam with a 1/4 down cut bit. My depth per pass was 0.5 in (I meant for O.05, it 0.5 was better)… it cut perfectly.
I cut a lot of foam. Ive had good success with compresión bits. But I also use 6 strait flute cutter with very clean cuts at a depth of an inch. It is a tricky material for sure.
Ive had good results using the masking tape+super glue for work holding and using downcutting endmills. The biggest thing to remember is to make sure its conventional cutting.
How well do these cutters hold up with longer use? Many foams are notorious for how quickly they dull knife blades. I've had breakaway knives significantly dull after just three long cuts in high-density EVA (100kg/m³).
Dude. I have cut thousands upon thousands of tool silhouettes for tool box control, all traced and razor cut by hand. Wow. Replaced by a robot, indeed.
I, for one, would absolutely love a series on milling random materials
Second
Yeah, "Will it machine?" sounds like a cool idea. I've often wondered how I would need to change settings or if a machine is even capable of cutting certain materials.
I followed Winston’s steps and got PERFECT cuts. I used a 1/8in down cut Amana foam cutting end mill. It cut like butter. I was using EVA foam tiles. This was for a case for a tool. It turned out perfect.
Which side did you attach to your table? The textured top or the smooth bottom? I’m wondering if one side sticks better, but also if one side gives a better initial cutting surface than the other. Thanks!
@@TanyaHakala I'm attaching smooth side with some cheap chinese double side tape, and it's not moving at all. I tried textured top to fix the same way but it's peeling off very easy
Thank you for a quick comparison of good / bad results for machining! It's very helpful to see the results side by side with a simple change like climb / conventional instead of something that has to be "tuned".
Thanks Winston, that was very concise and helpful. I also loved the real time video at the end to show just how quickly it goes.
I did not enjoy it.
It scared my wife and she had to be sedated. This is speed privilege and left wing propaganda
I am all for starting a series about machining random objects!
The Shapeoko HDM is a lot bigger than I thought. Perfect
I cut the butt caps for fishing rods out of EVA on my SO3. But I get it in 1.5" square 12" long blocks and I cut a 2 inch section off and put it into a vise and just cut with my normal ball cutters. It does pretty good.
Ah the secret is out...
Amana makes a great specialty foam tool for this, 46270 / 46270-K. I have also experimented with some Dremel bits and found similar successes.
Your cuts are coming out really rough in some areas, the pockets look fine but the outside edges leave much to be desired.
As for securing the EVA, Tape has been the worst, Honestly anything involving the wood sacrificial board was a bust.
Enter my solution: Securing in a insulation foam sacrificial board, Forstner bit to level it out, and using tall T pins to secure the EVA to the foam. Gotta be strategic when placing the pins to prevent them hitting the workhead, but I have found massive success with cutting parts using pins to hold place. Currently experimenting with EVA foam carving, I'll be sure to contact y'all once I get some solid results.
Oh and THANK YOU!! I got into learning CNC thanks to your videos, Now I have a S3-XL thanks to a old work friend. Made a lot of my new workflow feel like a dream, I can't thank you enough!
Let me know how that works. I was thinking along the lines of the same solution. Outer edges are really all I'm concerned about.
I don’t have any problem securing EVA to the spoilboards with tape and 2p10.
I’ve cut foam for making custom toolbox inserts. Both on the Shapeoko and with a hand router. Looks like I need to upgrade my bits! That Datron makes a big difference
thank you! I've been searching all week for good information on routing foam including posting on your forum, maybe helped you get this video. haha Thanks again.
"Climb cut" refers to the flutes climbing the wall of the material, regardless of cutting toward the center or away from the center of the pocket.
The important thing to remember, is that in CNC world, toolpaths are typically programmed to cut in Climb, UNLESS you're working with SOFT MATERAILS, which tend to shear more cleanly with Conventional without producing hairy/fuzzy walls.
Oh, man! I wish I’d seen this yesterday! I was putting the double sided tape on the foam. That was a pain in the neck, getting the backing off… I was using a lower density foam with a 1/4 down cut bit. My depth per pass was 0.5 in (I meant for O.05, it 0.5 was better)… it cut perfectly.
👌 been waiting for this one!
I cut a lot of foam. Ive had good success with compresión bits. But I also use 6 strait flute cutter with very clean cuts at a depth of an inch. It is a tricky material for sure.
Ive had good results using the masking tape+super glue for work holding and using downcutting endmills. The biggest thing to remember is to make sure its conventional cutting.
I prefer quantum cutting because it makes me feel superior to my peers
Great video winston!
you know this guy means business with his fancy fein vacuum
Hello, what is the density of the EVA foam you use? What is its hardness rating?
I've got a laser but it's good to know I can cut this stuff with my shapeoko!!!! Good video.
I'm going to give this a try, I have a Robodrill with a 24k spindle and 1181 imp feed capability. This could work well for shipping fragile parts.
Thats is super interesting, do you know if its possible to mill dense upholstery foam?
Hi witch better and clean to cut foam cnc or laser co2? And can change the head to knife head?
You can help yourself by blocking in the foam on all four sides and using right hand cutting tool with a left-hand twist.
What brand eva foam are you milling here?
How well do these cutters hold up with longer use? Many foams are notorious for how quickly they dull knife blades. I've had breakaway knives significantly dull after just three long cuts in high-density EVA (100kg/m³).
Yeah, it's crazy. I was cutting EVA foam with scalpel type blades and they dulled after a few cuts.
Hi , I am looking for Cnc Laser Cutting Router Machine for Eva foam packing .Please Confirm . Thank You
how do you pick conventional cutting in carbide create?
That setting was added to Carbide Create Pro earlier this year.
Thank the gods the world finally has a ketchup packet holder.
Yes, I'm glad that he chose to make a case for something sensible.
Can we add a new tool on the carbide software or just in the pro?
Use the painters tape on both surfaces + super glue method to hold down the foam?
It's one of several options you can use.
I’ve been using a double sided masking tape. Look for Painter’s Mate Double-Sided Poly-Hanging Tape
I wish I can get the Datron endmill
With international shipping
You help me a lot for my project, thanks bro 👍
Do you offer custom cutting? I have some things I'd like cut from EVA!
We do not.
I would have never guessed that kind of foam could be machined.
probably can route PANELS for SOUNDPROOF...
Damn. That is pretty much what I need for my final year university project. Don't think i can justify the purchase of it though.
Dude. I have cut thousands upon thousands of tool silhouettes for tool box control, all traced and razor cut by hand. Wow. Replaced by a robot, indeed.
Thanks Winston :)
Try Sentra and Dibond There great to CNC
Use a heat gun to achieve a nice surface after machining
Sounds a lot like flame polishing acrylic.
Next on Will-It-Mill, epoxy-filled granite counter tops. 😂
I tried this and must report that it does not work as well with mustard and not whatsoever with relish.
Have you tried Soy Sauce?
“Don’t breathe this!”. 😁
Or, use a CO2 laser and it cuts like butter with a perfect smooth finish. Oh, and no hold downs required.
doesn't help that your first endmill was 2 foot long...
keep your foam in the freezer until you are ready to go.
hahahaha love the intro!!
"We're not about to start a series on machining random objects"... well, that day has arrived: th-cam.com/video/KvumzkL6N8Q/w-d-xo.html
Good point.
Lol...the blend music
🙈 𝓹𝓻𝓸𝓶𝓸𝓼𝓶
It's not worth it.
Just use your teeth. They are cheap, I can personally make around 50.000 dollars worth of foam inserts before I need new teeth
My god, learn how to pronounce aluminium
Doesn't matter