Broken bolt extraction
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Some of you may be very familiar with this type of issue. Anyone who works on heavy equipment with tracks knows the struggles. Follow along as I remove these broken bolts out of a Drill Rig track frame.
Always a pleasure watching you fix things. From failing to success. Never give up. Finding solutions. And handle business.
Isaac, through the years I've had a lot of first time success by cleaning the bolt then welding a flange nut directly to the broken bolt on the inside of the nut, not the outside. This transfers a lot of heat through the full length of the bolt breaking it loose from the threaded hole. This really works!
I also use 6 point impact sockets and the necessary breaker bar to apply the right amount of torque. Use sockets you're not in love with because you'll be beating them on to get the best engagement.
Awesome video!
Im going try that. I never thought of using flange nuts.
Thank you for sharing. There is an unwritten law that bolts break in a tough spot.
Class is in session again from the master
There I was, just enjoying a good video...then he dropped the metric crescent wrench; got me hahaha
I use metric crescent wrenchs too!
I've got a metric pipe wrench.🙄
I normally try to weld as much on rounded bolt or whatever is left, to make it red hot. It frees itself up.
Some bolts you may be better off putting the heat on the bolts instead of the steel around it.
What can happen the bolt will expand in a direction it's not constrained up or down, and when it cools it will pull away from the threads a little.
Depends on the situation, but could be worth a try on the next job.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing!
The Guy with the Face Mask is he the camp Desperoto. Try a six point socket and a air impact if you can Cheers .
Metic adjustable wrench you are funny. Have a great day
Heat red hot then cool quickly with water, has worked every time for me.
Job well done !👍
I use austenitic-ferritic 2.5mm or 3/32 rods to spot build up on the end of broken bolt until i can weld a bolt half the broken bolts diameter or next size up to it (5/8 thread will normally get a 5/16 bolt straight or 3/8 with the end ground to a point).......means i can get a straight shot onto the broken bolt with CRC 556 or whatever other penetrating oil i have that day to cool it and have the oil sucked into the threads as the broken bolt cools....
Lol Years ago where i work tried to use volvo 360 and 460 diggers with standard tracks in a mining environment where heavy mining spec track frames and tracks suffer high wear rates and damage........i would spend 40 of my 48hr week welding out broken roller bolts for the 3 years they had them.
my trick; Just weld the nut on like you did in the end let cool. Lube, Heat around bolt then percussive hammering while trying to undo the bolt. The combo on percussions and force to unthread seams to break the rust/Dirt free easily 10/10.
If those bolts go right through the plate and you can get to the other side of them, throw some locknuts on the tops of them to keep the dirt off the threads.
So many people just standing around and watching, must have been a piece of highway department equipment!
Some copper grease when assembling will save half the work.
But then you would not be there so let them assemble it dry and look foreward to the next visit.
Awesome work!
good going brother
Haven’t watched the video yet, but liked it anyways....cuz I know I will anyways 😁
Is there space on top of the frame ? If so you could get the nut out from there by running the broken stud up and thru the frame. If you are wondering why my comments are as such, I worked in the mining industry for 36 years repairing equipment a hell of a lot bigger than that, repaired steel from 1/8 inch to 14 inch thick Dragline bucket lips !!
You would think the manufacturer of the crane would know these would be a bastard to get out they should have drilled all the way through and put bolts in and torqued them up ,would be much easier to change ,just a thought ,old jimmy Australia
Looks like you had enough supervision.
Does the crescent wrench have to be left handed, too?
Might help! haha
So who is hitting the thumbs down? Is it someone who fat-fingered the thumbs up or are they mad because they are a "welder" but didn't think about doing this, or did he drop too much knowledge on you?
Hope they use anti seize when installing new screws.
It wants to hit the hammer with a hammer to loosen it before turning it.
Nice job there, not easy workin on your back & upside down, what size was the bolts.,5/8 or 3/4??, thank you.
Great job. I saw that you were not stingy using panther piss, aka WD40 😂🤣👍😎
Would an air hammer with a blunt tip help?
Why are you spraying the WD40 with it RED HOT? It'll just BURN away. 🔥
Never give up .
Interesting...I only have Standard crescent wrenches in my box....I’ll have to get a metric to complete my set...🤔
Buy a couple of left handed ones while youre at it! hehe
Torching out a bolt up-side down wouldn't be fun. Well done.
Metric crescent wrenches are hard to find. Those and the left-handed wrenches. Also dont say "i didnt do it". Plea the fifth.
What you gotta like about Isaac is he's not afraid to leave things in the video if they fail. Thanks for keeping it real.
Its not fun bit its real, so i leave it in.
A man of integrity.
Much respect.
@@ICWeld Yeah man, thanks for keeping in the things that don't always work.
i get to see a bit of how it Really is.
I usually keep two crescent wrenches in my tool box. One metric and one SAE. ;o)
Or a West Virginia socket set!
Said with a straight face...
@@michaelleblanc3363 A West Virginia socket set....?
Please explain to me, what that means...🙂
@@kristianskov4841
I think that is just a local term for an adjustable wrench.
I have an adjustable that gives overall size in metric on one side of it.. and in SAE on the other.. always fun when I ask a helper to get me the metric adjustable and they don't see it.. I flip the wrench over and say "there it is!" LOL
Best part of your videos is that you don’t go on and on talking about what you’re gonna do. You just do it. And, you show your success and your failures. Great job.
I second this comment
👍👍👍😜🏴🦕🙂🤞✌
I have expanded my drill bits and drills just for broken bolts lol.track frame bolts like your doing here I usually take a rose bud to the frame around the bolts first then center punch the hell out of them.if there is room and it's a through bolt I always drill big as I can then split with a 00 tip in the torch if dead end hole or no room to drill have had better luck with welding nut only. zinc or plated washers don't seem to hold too well
@@everythingoutdoors7944 Yep we all have our ways of dealing with these. Up here in the land of salt and snow... we call the torch our heat wrench. In those solid plates that won't heat much, I've taken to pouring the heat into the bolt with a rosebud to cherry if I can, then let it cool and weld on the nut with as much heat as possible. Some hammer raps and a little cooling. Taking the bolt to red breaks the rust bond (sometimes) and gets some expansion/contraction movement going. Like Isaac did, patience, patience and more patience.
👍👍
Hey mate what wire are you running in that machine
"Make sure you use a metric crescent wrench..." LOL!
I liked the fact that you used a 140 amp portable machine with flux core wire to demonstrate these smaller machines that many of us shadetree mechanics have are not toys. Lots of good welding tips and heating techniques in your video for coaxing out frozen bolts and broken studs. Always appreciate your clips!
“I can’t right now honey, he’s removing broken bolts”!
🤣
And it's a short video, only a half hour!
I think you meant to say. I can't right now honey, he's removing broken nuts!
It's funny because it's true.
th-cam.com/video/iFxzH65fnkY/w-d-xo.html
Snapped off, dirty, rusty, seized, upside down, high Sun, big bolts and in the field with a crowd watching and waiting for you to finish cos the machine is costing and not earning.
Who needs drama and action when this is available. Proper job. Cheers
not a swear word out of his mouth. that's ok, i was making up for IC while watchin the vid
👍👍👍
Real men don’t need to swear.
@@Crewsy 👍👍👍
@@Crewsy What a laughable statement. Real men don't need to define their masculinity behind dumb virtue signalling.
@@Crewsy True, but it fucking feels better.
Man I was on the edge of my seat looking for movement. I shouted "got it!" My wife thinks I'm nuts
Bolts 😉
When in college for my automotive technology degree we were required to take a welding class. Our instructor told us, let me show you something that might save you from being let go or laid off before someone else is. We spent a week 2 hrs a day learning how to weld on bolts stuck in GM 6.0 heads without drilling them. Best money I ever spent.
l have pair of Metric Vice Grips l use all the time.......LMao.......Love this Channel.....!!!!!!
I work on heavy equipment, I found out best way to remove broken bolts,is line up nut hole on broken bolt,and fill center of nut with weld, not outer side, let cool, it will come out.(may take a couple tries)
You can reuse those bolts now you’ve welded heads back on them. 😂
Exactly. Maybe use them to secure the cars on a roller coaster or something like that. Lol
That's what a happy trigger finger on the old impact gets you. "Hey...Call that guy you know, see if he can get these bolts out again."
"Metric Crescent Wrench".....hilarious!
Left handed Crescent wrenches work too! haha
Snap!
Well y could always use metrinch tools, kid you not they do excist.
@@ICWeld IMO, every Crescent wrench should be dropped in the ocean. Too fiddly. Thanks for the video. Great!
@@johnranalletta9249 nah, you're just using them upside down
TH-cam is why I hardly watch any television. Your videos are one of the reasons I watch so much TH-cam! Keep the good stuff coming!!
I thinking anti seize on the new hardware.
Definitely.
A little trick I learned a long time ago for getting out any seized bolt is to heat the bolt and surrounding area, then take a can of 134 and freeze the bolt only. The massive temp differential creates a good amount of wiggle room. It’s always worked for me.
When I do them, I try to keep the trigger pulled for as long as possible instead of dozens of spots. Sink as much heat into the stuck stud as possible. Then when it cools, it shrinks away from the casting.
I thought when welding the nut to the stud you fill the nut with weld for a better bond.
@@michaelleblanc3363 yes but the goal is too get the nut to stick to the stud and get as much heat in the stud as you can ,, little spot welds hold the nut for looks .. but you need good heat for it too work ,, plus welding upside down makes it a bit tuff .. sometimes i will heat the stud before i weld .. at times it helps
@@randytravis3998 Thanks, I did not understand just welding the washer to the stud then welding around the nut with out welding the inside of the nut.
Been doing these broken studs inside aluminum heads for a while now and that's the way to go. Hold a washer over the broken stud and fill in the void then attach a nut and fill that in. Stay on the trigger as long as you can without melting the entire nut and you should have enough heat to make the stud pull away from the casting when it cools off. Works like a charm. No tack and go. It leaves voids which creates a weak bond and room for breakage when you apply torque
@@michaelleblanc3363 he might of edited that part out , but yes you do want to weld inside the nut to the stud as hot as you can with out melting the nut ,, seen a lot of people doing tack welds and most of them the nut breaks off .. i done it a few times and you might have to weld a nut on 3 or 4 times before you get it ,,
Don't you just love when your trying to do a difficult time consuming job and you have an audience? Not sure if they think it will make you work faster or what. I was a machinist in a factory, there were times my audience would get in my way. I'd shut off the lathe and stand there until they left.
@20:10
Metric Crescent wrench?
You failed to mention that yours is a left handed metric crescent wrench. It makes a difference.
There are channels like yours.....a thumbs up before I even see the content....the guys (or girls) that give a thumbs down....if you don't like the effort this guy puts in...just go somewhere else....
oh i feel you with the struggle.. im from Finland and i do this exact kind of work a lot. i usually start by heating the snapped bolt red hot and then let it cool down and weld a smaller nut very well to the bolt and a bigger nut on top of the smaller. I find that best method for me. Keep doing these amazing videos, i enjoy these very much:)
Thanks for the tips!
Just wanted to tell you I really appreciate your videos. I recently started a welding business and wanting to focus and transition into equipment welding. I was a heavy duty mechanic for years and my motivation and knowledge lean toward equipment. Your videos are very helpful and educational. Just want to tell you I appreciate it!!
Thank you for the reply. I'm glad its been helping. And thank you for your support!
I see you got your umbrella up but I don't see any Piña coladas, stay cool man looks hot out there.👍😎
Next time!
My favorite phrase.
It's the way I do it. That speaks volumes about your experience. You have been around and know what works best for you. You speak bluntly and with authority. I respect that.
I love that metric crescent wrench to! I see you mark your tools as I used to when I worked with a bunch of guys. I started off with three marks by a file and slowly progressed to seven when I changed jobs! Well done.
I always found it "easier" if you can drill a hole in the center of the bolt as far as you can before welding, especially if it's a pass through. Awesome video!
I work maintenance in a fairly large industrial wastewater plant. It’s an old facility originally built in 1936. I deal with this problem often. I find that breaking the rust bond between the fastener and thread helps. I will use an air hammer with a pointed chisel right on the bolt and a hammer around the area surrounding. Then after welding a nut on I quickly douse it with lots of water. The rapid heat and cooling cycles help the most. Even after welding and cooling, I’ve had to reheat with a torch and then rapid cool it. I’ve had instances of doing that a couple times then turning the bolt/stud out basically by hand.
Not being critical, love the videos. Just sharing.
Here in Canada, when we switched over to metric, all our standard adjustable wrenchs were melted down and remanufactured in to metric adjustables adding a secert sauce to the metal.. You are right they do a much better job on difficult removals.
Another successful mission. Great job. When installing bolts on applications like this, plumbing thread sealant like Rectorseal number 5 soft set and white Loctite 567 thread sealant really work well to fill the voids in the thread path from water and dirt, but don't "lock" the threads. I used them on our tracked vehicles in the Army. Great stuff. Not even desert dust gets in and eliminates electolytic corrosion from dissimilar metals like steel bolts in aluminum.
I highly recommend flooding the bolts with penetrating oil, yes WD40 works just fine, and a little air hammer action along with all the great techniques you used here. Some torque on the nut while air hammering a flooded bolt is highly effective. That said, there will be some that just wont come out.
A pleasure to watch your work, as always. Keep the content coming.
nice job those always are a uphill battle
Only thing I use on hard to get out bolts or nut is turpentine,learned it from a machinest awhile back,alot of guys like kroil,but you can make your own with Wintergreen oil,ATF,and turpentine cheap
Think I might try that!
The best penetrating oil we have found is 1/2 trans fluid and 1/2 acetone shakin well , heat and hammer and wait on it. Did some pretty extensive testing even got some engineers out of the way and fixed it. LOL... Military
You really do great work, but the thing that impresses me is you don't get rattled, you just keep working on whatever it is until you conquer it.
Keep up the good work!
Loving the flow of uploads please don't stop!! We learn something new every time *cheers
You should invest in some star xtract welding rods. They're made just for this kinda stuff, 125.000 psi tensile strength, penetrant in the flux to help protect threads and other goodies. They're a little pricy but boy do they work slick
The fight is real. I feel your pain and satisfaction all on the same job. Yet Another great job👌👌👌 thank you
Hey bud.. not for nothing but try gulf wax or kitchen wax on the top side if possible? it seeps in great and helps clean and lubricate quickly somehow when hot! Old timer from Riverton WY taught me that.. works great for me
This is the real deal, thanks for sharing.
I used both methods today on some previously gas cut off 3/4" bolts, it worked well, a bit of a battle here and there but good results. Thanks for the advice!
I wish I know these tricks 40 years ago and had the patients to use them. Well done.
If we only had TH-cam forty years ago, back then a lot of guys would not show you there tricks.
Whenever I've run across something like this, I used a liberal amount of Kroil, then WD-40, then more Kroil, and more WD-40. Gave it about 10-20 minutes to soak in and tried it. If it didn't work (very unusual) I'd start all over again. Almost everyone I tried to get out eventually came free and got 'em out.
Blaster works 10x better... wd4o is not a penetrating (catalyst type) oil... its water displacement...old trans oil works good too...I carry bottle and hardwire just so I dont have to deal with slag. GJ job done
Great job, but all it would take is for the "mechanic" to lube the bolts with graphite/copper grease before fitting(they'll have spring washers fitted to prevent drop-out from vibration anyway) so as to prevent this from occuring as this is a recurring job/problem ie preventative maintenance.
It's a shitty job for the fabricator/welder to do on his back(fortunately not at the drilling location)!
Keep safe and well.
They hire you because you've got the knowledge, equipment and Patience!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to do the job correctly. Others see a problem like that and want to go buy a new machine. Kudos to you. Next they'll want you to build up the teeth on the worn out sprocket. LOL
Glad you knew to use a metric crescent wrench.... Probably some JB Weld epoxy would have stuck those nuts to the broken bolts for a faster result too.... LOL
Another good video !!!
👍🏻saved the day again!
How about squirting a little water on the bolt head after heating around it to shrink a little?
excelente trabajo...mucha paciencia para sacar esos bulones con exito.......Saludos desde Corrientes Argentina
Couple tips( I learn more from you though thanks!) The bolt that was not broken could have been extracted 95% of the time by "shocking" it with a sledge hammer no heat required......just have t hit it hard solid and square.....would obviously be easier if it wasnt upside down but I rarely use heat anymore......Next if you are using heat on the non broken bolt you want to heat the bolt until red hot and then extract as it turns from red to back to regular color....not the surrounding area of the bolt this tightened the bolt hole......you want the bolt to swell and then shrink........which leads to final tip, not for sure itd work first try of course, but I am for sure that you would have a better chance to remove the bolts you welded the nuts on first try if you didnt give them so long to cool.......like previous tip you want to apply torque to bolt as it transitions from red hot back to normal state so try to remove briefly after welding the nut on.....thanks for your videos Im no welder just an engine machinist
how i go about removing broken bolts now after 40 plus years, i your case i would start with some 1/8" FB 1-1/2" wide and 12" long, drill a hole at one end one size smaller than the bolt, plug weld that on, i build up the weld so i can bang on the bolt with a hammer, now the 12" is like the handle of a wrench, most times i tap it back and forth with a hammer, just easy, the size of the FB depends on how much room you have, what size the bolt is.
I normally look up on the inside of the track frame to see if any of the bolt is protruding. On small diggers like this one I would hit the thread with a sandblaster. Then with a freshly sharpened drill bit on an air drill, and I like air drills for drilling cos they lack rotating mass and when the drill bit jams it doesn't bite in too hard or deep especially when you have a pressure regulator turned down. Electric drills suck in this regard. You can do either, use an oxy cutter and enlarge the drill hole a bit or use a micro thermal lance.
The drill hole helps guide it straight. Then I have a kero gun full of water and you shoot water into the enlarged drill hole, and I drive a small flat cold chisel in. Put a small shifter on the chisel and out they unscrew.
"Metric Crescent Wrench", Good one!! I like the old SAE ones, work better on old cars. Thanks for all the interesting videos. Best Regards - Mike
I really admire ur patience...love watching ur videos an keep them coming !
Ever thought of putting an air chisel in the nut while trying to turn? Try it sometime. Great video. I've got a couple of these to do on my D7. I'm dreading it!! :)
I was doing that when I was a teenager. But I will tell you if you don't mind is two things you could have done to succeed almost every time. Grind the bolt a tad. Then heat it up a few hundred degrees. When I think it's going to be a hard nut to crack I make three little L's of 32nd soldier. This is just for spacer between the washer and the machine. It will melt out when your welding your nut to the washer and welding the inside of the nut full from the bottom out. This will do two things. It will help anneal the two metals and get a stronger bond. Then cool it down so you can touch it I always like to tap on the nut 40-50 times just to break any rust bond of the bolt that broke for some reason. The best way is to hold a piece of dry ice on the nut for a minute. This all may seem unnecessary but the bolt will come right out just about every time I watched it to 7:15. Welding the nut full makes the difference. Try it buddy.
I saw a guy ruin a 350 chevy engine block once. It had a broke off head bolt below the surface and he drilled it and broke his easeout off in the block.
He ruined the block trying to drill the easout with a diamond burr bit as it would slip off the hard easeout and eat away at the block.
Is there a good way to get a broke off easout out in a 3/8 bolt?
Someone told me you can milk it out with a torch.
Use PB Blaster penetrating oil, waaaaayyy better than WD-40 in my opinion, been a heavy equipment mechanic for 30 years, I feel your pain
I never had any luck using wd-40. I switched to pb blaster. Biggest problem I had was not enough heat to start with or getting impatient and not letting it cool enough before trying. I used to do a ton of catapiller exhaust studs.
Where in the hell did you get that metric crescent wrench?
I had a transit van a few years back and the propshaft bearing guides had stuck, they were pan head bolts with a corroded torx fitting..horrible things... but I welded a nice big nut on top and out they came..needless to say I put "real" bolts back when I refitted the shaft
I have removed hundreds of broken bolts, taps and easy outs. Always nice when someone breaks off a tap it easy out and leaves it. Why don't you use extrato rod. It works so much better than a mig. And use a 3/8 impact on the bolts. I hate/ dispise cresant wrenches.
Thumbs up as always. Do a video of you truck walk around.
Get some inexpensive computer air spray cans and use them up side down to freeze the bolts after heating around the base metal to create more thermal contraction on the bolt. You will here a ting/ping sound if successful when the threads loosen. It is like spraying that hot bolt head with a water hose, which you usually do not have access to.
The charge on the computer air blow off can is a refrigerant in the liquid phase that is why you spray it upside down. It is also good for freezing bearings and races to install them into bore holes, just the opposite of using heat to slip over shafts.
I put lug nuts on,now with never seize.. Have not had one come loose,on its own.
Even head bolts into aluminum..My theory is oxidation needs air or water.
Never seize keeps both out.