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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มี.ค. 2017
- In this video we visit an indoor skatepark in Nashville, TN to experiment with pushing Ilford HP5+ to ISO 1600. The skatepark is pretty dark and low in contrast so pushing film was a great option to capture some of the action.
VIEW THE BLOG POST: bit.ly/2mQ75Wr
RELEVANT LINKS:
Massive Dev Chart :: bit.ly/1B3wHfy
BUY HP5+ :: amzn.to/2mdXEgX
A great explanation of pushing film :: bit.ly/2mdeRGr
Find GRAIN Online:
Website: www.graintv.me
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Twitter: @graintv_me
Email: graintv.me@gmail.com
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Camera: Sony A6000 :: amzn.to/2mdXm9L
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Ring Light: Newer Ring Light :: amzn.to/2mUP6iu
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Audio Recorder: Zoom H4n :: amzn.to/2mUMFN4
Video Monitor: Aputure VS2 :: amzn.to/2mNCCIZ
The gear links above and any Amazon links I post are Amazon affiliate links and it helps with the time and costs associated with producing this show. Any views or opinions are my own and come from a place of honesty and sincerity. I hope you enjoy the videos and my channel and leave me your notes or feedback in a comment below. Thanks for watching!
-Chris
This is a really calm, really simple and helpful video. Thanks for doing this, so helpful and well-made!
Very good job (both the video and your photography at the skate park)!
great results there cheers
Watched a couple of your videos and one thing really confuses me ... Why on Earth have you only got 909 subscribers? Your presentation, mixed with honesty is brilliant.
I am about to start shooting black and white and your video helps me to understand more about iso in film. Thank you !
this is dope! good shit man!
Well done! That was a usefull and entertaining. TNX
Wow those are some fantastic photos
I love your channel and it’s vibe. I’m about to push some HP5 sheet film for the first time. I inadvertently reset my strobe and underexposed at least 6 sheets. It is also the first time I’ve shot with 4x5. Four sheets came out beautifully at box speed, but my strobe was dialed.
I love the look of these shots
Thank you, Luke! I appreciate that. thanks for watching. -chris
Some of my best frames have been on HP5 at 1600. Beautiful grain. Loved the video and the photos.
I really like the way they turned out! Thank you!
Great video man keep up the good work!
Thanks man! It really means a lot!
Great vid. just pushed my first roll, waiting to get it back from the lab.. Also just picked up a red filter...supposed to make the contrast pop!
These look great! So far since getting back into film these past few months, I've been stand developing in HC110 at around 1:100 for an hour, and I love the flexibility it gives me. It generally takes me a few days to a week or more to finish a roll of film, so I end up in different situations and have shot anywhere from 400 to 1600 within the same roll and gotten results I'm happy with from HP5, Kentmere 400, and Tri-X, although Tri-X is a little more contrasty and difficult to scan than the other two. Next time I'll try going as low as 200 and as high as 3200 and see how that looks.
6 years late and this was a banger!!!
Great video, really like the relaxed atmosphere while giving solid information :)
Thanks for sharing this video. I have some hp5 rolls and might give this a shot. No one really explained to me what pushing film was. Until i saw your video. Keep shooting bro!
Awesome! Thanks for watching! Let me know how things turn out!
I just love where you’re coming from, you remind me of my early years developing before I worked professionally.
A small thing I caught on to later for acquiring really grainy images, was to shoot B+W on a half frame camera, 35 mm film.
This also gives you around 72 frames on each roll.
Just found the channel. Really enjoying your vids, hungry for more !
Well done and thanks, Gary Compton
Excellent video man! I like the peacefulness of your video you also have an excellent voice for this stuff. I’ll have to watch more of your content. Keep shooting 👍
I really love how you do your intros, theyre full of energy. Pushing and pulling is sort of a scary concept to me but I tried out ilford 400 would you mind checking it out and tell me your thoughts please?
so dope even to this day
I pushed film and it's fun. My new favorite film is ilford hp5 plus. I never thought of it but the curl factor makes a difference in scanning and hp5 is very flat.
I enjoyed the video. Will check out the rest of the channel. I noticed in the beginning of your video your camera had the yellow filter still on. Did you use the filter for the shoot? You will lose a stop of light and in my experience the yellow filter doesn't do much for indoor shots. There's a lot of info online saying yellow filter is required for all B&W photos but I think that's dated advice. Anyway, great video -- really glad to see info being shared about B&W film.
I have pushed hp5 to 1600 before and got good results. I often find that my negatives even at 400 iso have a lot of grain. Im trying triX right now, hopefully I'll get finer grain for a 400 speed film
I'd love it if you went into greater depth about your developer choice and processing technique. Thanks for the video.
which camera did you use. you seem to be holding canon AE-1 in black. and the piece of video where you set iso setting is from a more modern camera with LCD display?
not a camera man myself, but this video was super informative! keep up the good work on the TH-cam and hollar when you're gonna be working scouts. need a trim haha awesome video tho!
Hey Bud! Good to hear from you! I made my move to Colorado so youtube will have to do for now! Now get to piggin!
Thank you . Subbed.
Thank you Malvina! I appreciate you watching! -chris
Great video, thanks!
I wouldn’t develop film in the kitchen though. Basic lab safety - don’t mix food and chemicals.
I see you set ASA to 1600,
but how did you meter your exposures? did you use center weight? or some kind of evaluative metering?
also, if you want to get the best determination of your negative density success, wet print a "proper proof" sheet of your negatives. This Proper Proof provides the most honest answers
Cool! What kind of film camera did you use to shoot the HP5 with? Keep up the great work! Thank you for sharing!
Hey John! Just a cheap canon rebel G. I have about 2 of them ($10 each used). They just plain work!
I thought I recognized a Rebel G when you were showing setting the ISO! Used to have one of those myself.
Currently pushing my first roll of HP5 to 1600 as well, only about 6 frames in, curious to see the end result once it's all said and done.
Sometimes waiting till the end is the hardest part. Makes it really fun though once you see the timeline of everything on one looong strip of film! Good luck and happy shooting! -chris
I know you commented this a long time ago, but how did it go? :)
The music is original?
Recommend looking into stand developing if you want to try alternative methods of developing film
If you're pushing film regularly it's better to use a developer such as Ilford Microphen or Kodak Xtol, as these will give finer grain and allow you to push higher, way over the ISO 1600 that D-76 allows
I will look into these. I've been wanting to push some film more. I have also been wanting to actually PRINT pushed film instead of scanning it to see what differences I will find. Thank you for the tip!
I'm trying to figure out whether Irving Penns work is purely a result of his darkroom skills, or if he gave his film a push too... His images are so contrasty and yet so balanced. I'll have it all figured out at one point, but is there anyone that has some input on this topic ?
Cheers from germany.
+ Jens Looking at the work of Irving Penn his work is portraiture, and with this his artistic intent is what makes his style so identifiable. Not many were doing what he was doing, they're others now though who like to work as much on their work in the darkroom as they do on the frame. Check out www.khalikallah.com
Hi, please tell what camera did you use in this video?
Canon Rebel G 35mm with 50mm 1.8 Video shot with Sony a6000
I highly recommend the video from "trangent" called "how to develop wrong". Its an amazing video explaining what the meaning of underexpose/overdevelop etc. is and what you can do with it.
You videos are very nice to watch I like your way of explaining and talking without lecturing the viewer too much. Greetings from Germany. How about a "whats in my camera bag" video or " my current gear" videos.
Also I almost stopped shooting 35mm and focus on 120mm - shots are just more worth the work in the darkroom i fell
One thing I found about really pushing film is developing HP5 at its normal times! The images come out SUPER punchy and the grain is a little thicker. It’s just something I like to try, you should try it out
sweet
What song is playing in the background? It sounds lovely!
My editing machine is still in the box from moving but as soon as it is unpacked I will let you know! Thanks for watching! -chris
@@GRAINTV I'll help you move boxes! We gotta know!
Just a couple of things from my experience with push processing:
You mentioned the loss of shadow detail and that's certainly going to be true. There just isn't enough light hitting the film. The best way to think about this is to consider the zone system. When you push, you bump to detail recorded down a zone for each stop you push.
Because of the long development time, you want to be really gentle with your agitation. This will help mitigate the big jump in graininess you will get.
Different films push better or worse than others. I'm also a big Ilford fan but HP and FP are not the best choices for push processing. Try Delta next time. You can get pretty much the same results starting with 100 and pushing it 2 stops more than 400. At least I could never see a difference. Don't push the 3200. It is rated at a 2 stop push already, in my experience. And Pan F.... Why would you screw up such a beautiful studio film like that? ;)
Also, go for the most gentle developer you can find. I'm partial to Kodak Xtol.
Finally, push processing is fine for 35mm which is a pretty low quality image anyway. As you start doing this with 120 and LF film, you're REALLY going to see the flaws.
Nice episode.
Truth, for sure. I would like to add for gritty street photos though, grain can be a nice feel.
I think it depends on what you are going for in your photos. For what I typically like in a BnW photo, I regularly push HP5 and Tri-X to 800 or 1600 (have even gone to 3200 for live performances in really dark clubs). I like the way the grain adds texture to the image. You don’t have to go all lomography on the grain and make it the focal point but HP5 has a nice feel even up to 3200.
no reaason to appologise for any of those shots mate!
What about the stop and fix? Are they done at the usual times that you do normally or do you have to do those for longer as well?
Same times! Enjoy!
GRAIN TV thank you!! Very helpful
GRAIN TV so I looked on massive dev chart. Don’t understand. I’m using Ilford pan 400 and fd10 developer which isn’t on the massive dev chart but was going to use the instructions of another Ilford 400 film shot at 800 how much extra time do I leave it in for and what does the 35mm mean in the massive dev chart?
Have you ever checked out the Nashville Community Darkroom? It's a great space and you can do some traditional silver gelatin prints and meet people. Shout if you're interested and we should grab a beer sometime or something.
I haven't been! I live in Colorado but next time I'm in Nashville I will swing by! Would love to check it out!
Did you shoot and push 1600 at noon?how about that?
Ilford HP-5+ is an excellent film choice to push, but Kodak D-76 is not the best choice of developer to use. It isn't the best choice, but it isn't the worst either. Ilford's website has a technical sheet identifying the preferred developers, processing times and temperatures for 1, 2, and 3 stops push processing.
if you ever want to try, you can have a look at this trix 400 pushed to 6400. development times are in the description. flic.kr/p/QmiSFN
i also have shot tmax 400 at 3200.
flic.kr/p/M61rKb
Looks really good! I've got a few rolls in the freezer that I want to experiment with. This might be a worthwhile experiment. -chris
Makes sense to me when you can buy Ilford 3200 Elite and get finer grain, more speed and greater sharpness for about $2.50 more a roll! But let's see how badly we can make film ENLARGEMENTS look, can we huh??? Even Kodak TMax 3200 gives superior results or REALLY go back in time to Eastman 2475 Recording Film and Eastman 857 Developer at ASA (before ISO children) 4000-ish. I shot a ton of that coarse-grit sandpaper film in available darkness 50 years ago.
I pushed Kodak Tri-x to 3200. It was a long time ago and I think I used Edwal as the developer. The image was in a concert hall during the performance, and I took a photo of the viola player who had such a great expression on his face as he was playing. The camera I used was a Minolta SRT201 with a 135 prime lens. This was back in 1983 when I was a photojournalist for the Ohio State University newspaper, the Lantern. Up to that point, I had never pushed film, but in those days I was a go-for-broke kind of guy and I figured what the heck. The image was pretty grainy, but the image came out great. Now I have to dig out my old negatives so that I can scan that one in! flic.kr/p/RAKQ1
This video is so awesome! gone do the same combination, reallylike the look. But please change your music, its a little depressing!
Awesome! Be sure to share the results! Thanks for watching! -chris
Practise on your focus
This doesn't make sense to me, but I'm new to photography so tell me where I'm going wrong. When you change the ISO on the camera all you're doing is shifting the reading your light meter gives you, nothing else. But if your whole reason for pushing ISO settings on camera was to avoid changing your shutter speed aperture then surely you have completely failed because all you have done is made the light meter tell you to alter your shutter speed/aperture settings. What am I missing here?
By changing camera ISO setting aren't you just "telling yourself" you can get away with slower shutter speeds because you're going to tell the lab to push it later
"Pushing" an be described as under exposing the film and then overdeveloping it. For instance pushing 400 HP5 to 1600 allows you to use a shutter of 1/125 instead of 1/30, which naturally would underexpose the film. That can allow you to shoot indoors at night, by ambient light without a tripod or flash and still prevent most blur. The second part of the technique is to overdevelop (push) the film when you process it. You can either use a longer development time or stronger chemical mixture. For 1600 speed on HP5 or Tri-x I use 5 ml of Rodinal and 100 ml of water for 90 minutes. If I was shooting at 400 speed, I would use the same chemicals but only 60 minutes instead of 90. I hope this helps.
yes thanks!
I suddenly stopped watching when I saw D-76, because that's Equivalent to ID-11, which Ilford recommends when shooting at EI 400 and 800. Microphen is recommended for EI 1600 and even 3200 because it's a push developer, and the Kodak equivalent, DK-50 is out of production. Microphen is cheap enough to do it the way the manufacturer recommends and show the film at its best.
Lose the yellow filter and gain 2 stops.
Where are the “gobs of grain”? You must be a noob. These are fine, I’ve been shooting 40+ years, and Ilford will give finer grain than Tri-X, but Tri-X has a fantastic look.
You said using the film "normally" (400ASA) would result in shutter speeds of 1/15sec. If you actually shot using a shutter speed of 1/125 that's a THREE stop increase = 3200ASA. That's a full stop more underexposure, needing even longer development.