Please take this as a complement - I think you are insane. The amount of customisation, the detailing, the thought that you put into a standard of the shelf kit is nuts, your brain is wired differently to most. You must have the patience of a saint. Love your work.
nah i think he just loves the hobby and is most likely is really into cars as i am i used to be a mechanic so i can tell he has done a lot of research looking up many of the parts he is scratch building to make actual replicas of them for the left out or or to replace the poorly molded ones yeah it takes time but i find doing similar more enjoyable than just building the kit as is although i doubt ill ever buy another revelle kit as if im going to put that much work into a kit i would rather it be from a better company or just scratch build the whole kit which is probably what im going to have to do since i cant find a kit of a 1978 ford mustang king cobra 2 that i want to build as a resto mod with a coyote motor swap
@@paktahn The Mustang II is a highly underrated body style. If you think about it, its the first retro restyle of the Mustang original. The second retro restyle was in 2005. Mustang II had all the elements from the 65 Mustang. The grille, the body side style lines, and the taillights. Too bad they used the pinto platform for it. If they would have thinned it out and elongated it about 6 inches it would have been beautiful! Was the second best selling Mustang ever! I would love to see a restomod build of it! There is a king Cobra kit out there, and a lot of resin parts from MCV, as well as others!
@@dmgscalemodels2825 thanks for the info i have been looking for a while and didnt think that there was a king cobra kit ill have to look into it as far as the mustang 2 being based on the pinto i actually like it being that small i think the worst thing about it was how anemic the engine was but then again most everything made in the late 70s had low output engines
I think we need to clear one thing up here. This man does not build models. He builds almost perfect replicas of cars from model kits. Absolutely amazing work.
I’ve watched watch makers assemble a watch movement, but that is nowhere as impressive as watching you work. You are a true master of your art and I applaud you.
That glue test was top notch. Very interesting to see the characteristics of the different types. In North America we also have a CA glue called Gold Plus that does not fog windows. I wonder how that would hold up to the 401 and the 402. Also using a clear UV resin would be interesting to see compared to these as well. I really appreciate the effort put into this! Love the insights.
I don't think most of the adhesives we tested have a big problem to use in the model, but it would be good to use according to the characteristics. I think other adhesives may be better than lOCTITE to use safely on painted surfaces.Thank you!
If Revell grade this standard kit at Level 4, I'm thinking your handbuilt masterpiece should level out at about Level 12,000. After the interior door trims, handles & the window winders, I dare not guess what is coming next chapter. Also, many thanks for the glue comparison. Very educational 👏
YOU ARE a ARTIST alone IN THE TOP OF YOUR CATEGORY. Just by yourself, Thanks you for having us witness your talent, imagination and sharing with us your experience.
Amazing model and the detail is off the scale. If I am gluing plastic parts but want a quick grab I use Tamiya extra thin and leave the piece for about 10 minutes then back the joint up with super glue (normally Zap-A-Gap) and a bit of Kicker. This is good when you want to continue building and don't want parts moving all the time. It makes for a strong bond when fully dry. I hate quick drying epoxy it always lets you down.
Incredible stuff. A pleasure to watch. I wonder what would happen if you did a 1/12 or even a 1/8...they would probably run...You are a world class artist!
Amazing work on the mustang! And thank you so much for the tutorial on glues. I remember you did one on putty, glue and tools before. They are a massive help to me. 😊😊😊
As always , superb skills and craftsmanship and regarding the glues , you must have been reading my mind ! I was going to ask you why so many different choices . Thankyou ❤
Once again my friend you have gone beyond what any self respecting modeller would call detail - they are even better than the real thing. The glue test was interesting, I was surprised with the epoxy, thought that would come out on top🤔 Carry on Sir👍👍👍👍👍👍
@@andreasbecker2916 Hast Du den Mercedes 300 SL von ihm gesehen? Absolut traumhaft! Er hat mal bei einem Model die Zündfolge 1,2,3,4, verkabelt und ich habe ihn darauf hingewiese! Seitdem stimmen die Zündfolgen bei seinen Modellen!
@@ralphkunze6441ja habe alle Modelle gesehen ... einfach ein Traum ... das ist Scale ... absolut perfekt ... keine blöde Musik in den Videos ... einfach nur Modellbau
@@andreasbecker2916 He is a MASTER BUILDER in is own class, never seeing such attention to details and I was a airplane mechanic for Pratt & Whitney for 18 Years
I don't think there will be a problem with just one or two adhesives, but I uploaded the test because I thought it would be good to use it in the right place. Thanks!
Absolut fantastic work. You‘re very talented in improving parts. Awesome. 🤩 I have this car in real and it is stunning to see how acurate the details are.
Muchas gracias por el día de hoy.... la verdad increíble lo que hiciste, mas el adicional de los pegamentos, creo que dos puedo conseguir que son los pegamentos loctite 401 y el 420. pero los demás es imposible, pero bueno me ayuda bastante.
Хочу подарить этому парню модель 1/18 и 1/8 только ради того, чтобы насладится видео с безупречной сборкой. Эпоксидка топ, тест еще раз это подтвердил. П.с. никто не встречал lambo diablo в 1:8?
I've watched all your builds over the past few years and am still amazed with the attention to details, which I rate it as museum quality. Btw, will you build Tamiya's 1/24 Nissan/Datsun 240Z?
I am disappointed that you couldn't figure out a way to actually make the window roll up and down with the crank. 😀 as always, simply stunned by your level of detail in the most minute of details.
it is possible to do on old cars like that its a gear/scissor mechanism that could be made at that scale the problem is the window specifically winding material stiff enough to retain its shape and not bend but also be very thin plexiglass or lexan would work if you can find it that thin but yeah it would be possible
@@A4Garage Oh, thank you)🤝 But let me also know, what exactly did you sharpen it from? What did you use as a blank for this part?🧐 I mean that cone-shaped part to which the door handle is attached, which you made from steel strips)😁👏🤓
I'm looking for some proper adhesives for my models, it happened more than once for the glue to ruin my almost perfect finish. Is Loctite 420 good for clear plastic as well? Also, why did you use the other glue when gluing the radiator support? Thank you!
If you can put the object to be put in the correct place in a short time without any mistakes at once, it would be better to use a strong adhesive, but if not, I think it would be better to be able to modify it while curing moderately slowly. The 420 retains quite a bit of transparency, but you can't remove it if you make a mistake, so you have to be careful about using it on top of transparent parts.
Can anyone tell me... what (brand, etc.) is the yellow (putty?) material used on the interior panel? Also, let me add, oh, I wish I had the patience that you show while working with a kit.
i was wondering the same thing it didnt look like any pop rivet i have ever seen as they are usual made of 2 different parts the shank and then the rivet its self
I've ground the lumps I've solder connected to the rod. I couldn't take the video. I'll take a video and upload it when I get a chance in the next task.
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to answer. I see something new every video that I find inspiring, and excited to try for myself. Extraordinary work!
i find that for gluing dissimilar materials together there is only three actual options for a permanent bond that will last that is 1 super glue aka ca glue 2 uv cure resin and 3 epoxy all others i have tried just dont work that well and of the three named they dont work on everything it all depends on the materials
I agree with you, but I think even if it sticks well with moderate strength, it can be removed if you want, and I also need glue that has a clean surface after removal.
Maybe you can try to make your own glue. For example by mixing a little Super Glue and a little baking soda. But be careful, wear a pair of glasses to protect your eyes and open a window because it generates heat (60 C) and a little gas. There are videos that show this on youtube, it is strong enough to make a key or nuts.
![FORD MUSTANG FASTBACK 1/24 REVELL Model car build [Full version]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j1aRGTfDIaE/mqdefault.jpg)
Please take this as a complement -
I think you are insane.
The amount of customisation, the detailing, the thought that you put into a standard of the shelf kit is nuts, your brain is wired differently to most.
You must have the patience of a saint.
Love your work.
nah i think he just loves the hobby and is most likely is really into cars as i am i used to be a mechanic so i can tell he has done a lot of research looking up many of the parts he is scratch building to make actual replicas of them for the left out or or to replace the poorly molded ones yeah it takes time but i find doing similar more enjoyable than just building the kit as is although i doubt ill ever buy another revelle kit as if im going to put that much work into a kit i would rather it be from a better company or just scratch build the whole kit which is probably what im going to have to do since i cant find a kit of a 1978 ford mustang king cobra 2 that i want to build as a resto mod with a coyote motor swap
@@paktahn I'd watch that video.
@@paktahn The Mustang II is a highly underrated body style. If you think about it, its the first retro restyle of the Mustang original. The second retro restyle was in 2005. Mustang II had all the elements from the 65 Mustang. The grille, the body side style lines, and the taillights. Too bad they used the pinto platform for it. If they would have thinned it out and elongated it about 6 inches it would have been beautiful! Was the second best selling Mustang ever! I would love to see a restomod build of it! There is a king Cobra kit out there, and a lot of resin parts from MCV, as well as others!
@@dmgscalemodels2825 thanks for the info i have been looking for a while and didnt think that there was a king cobra kit ill have to look into it as far as the mustang 2 being based on the pinto i actually like it being that small i think the worst thing about it was how anemic the engine was but then again most everything made in the late 70s had low output engines
Encore une fois, merveilleux travail !!! finesse et ultra précision des détails !
Another amazing update as always. This masterpiece is nearing completion! Thank you very much for your willingness to share with us your craft.
As ever this was a masterclass in model making!
I think we need to clear one thing up here. This man does not build models. He builds almost perfect replicas of cars from model kits. Absolutely amazing work.
Door handle and window crank...wow.really looks like "honey I shrunk the mustang"... great work
I’ve watched watch makers assemble a watch movement, but that is nowhere as impressive as watching you work. You are a true master of your art and I applaud you.
That glue test was top notch. Very interesting to see the characteristics of the different types. In North America we also have a CA glue called Gold Plus that does not fog windows. I wonder how that would hold up to the 401 and the 402. Also using a clear UV resin would be interesting to see compared to these as well. I really appreciate the effort put into this! Love the insights.
uv resin is one of my 3 go to bonding materials the other 2 being ca glue and epoxy
I don't think most of the adhesives we tested have a big problem to use in the model, but it would be good to use according to the characteristics. I think other adhesives may be better than lOCTITE to use safely on painted surfaces.Thank you!
Love the handle details, never thought on doing something like that, thanks for the glue demonstration that was really helpful
Bonsoir,
C’est excellentissime, un travail d’orfèvre ❤
Merci de nous faire profiter de votre savoir faire 😊
Good night
If Revell grade this standard kit at Level 4, I'm thinking your handbuilt masterpiece should level out at about Level 12,000.
After the interior door trims, handles & the window winders, I dare not guess what is coming next chapter.
Also, many thanks for the glue comparison. Very educational 👏
Defiantly over 9000.
Enjoy your channel. I find it hard to wrap my head around your level of detail. Amazing!
머스탱의 끝을 보려 늘 기다리는 사람으로서...
프라모델을 넘어...인간의 한계치를 보여주시는듯 합니다....
정성가득한 영상...감사합니다...^^
늘 봐주셔서 감사합니다. 완성까지 이제 얼마 남지 않은것 같습니다.^^
@@A4Garage 응원하겠습니다~
막상 끝나면 아쉬울듯요~~^^
beautiful work, and a great segment on glues.
I’ve looked forward to and followed this entire series. It’s truly been a pleasure to watch. 😁 I’m surprised that the horns don’t actually work.
That interior is going to look insane. Nice.
The attention to detail is ABSOLUTELY INSANE !!
Another world class masterpiece of craftsmanship by you, by you sir! I love your work and style! Top notch! ❤️♥️❤️♥️❤️♥️🥰🥰🥰🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Beautiful build and craftsmanship. Thank you for the glue test, I was somewhat surprised with the outcomes.
I am Korean and he is Korean.
But I am sure he is really insane.
He is in totally another universe.
I would not be surprise of that, with the amount of patience he use!
When done, this will be the most valuable Mustang of all time!
Amazing build and detail, love the glue test😊
Thank you for this very informative and demonstrative comparison of adhesives, very useful! 🙏🏻
YOU ARE a ARTIST alone IN THE TOP OF YOUR CATEGORY. Just by yourself, Thanks you for having us witness your talent, imagination and sharing with us your experience.
Incredible work. The door handles etc are an absolute work of art.
Radiator is done like a cross flow. The tubes should go from top tank to bottom tank to be period and vehicle correct. Great talent
Amazing model and the detail is off the scale.
If I am gluing plastic parts but want a quick grab I use Tamiya extra thin and leave the piece for about 10 minutes then back the joint up with super glue (normally Zap-A-Gap) and a bit of Kicker. This is good when you want to continue building and don't want parts moving all the time. It makes for a strong bond when fully dry. I hate quick drying epoxy it always lets you down.
Awesome job look so real I truly enjoy watching ur videos on this build you definitely have some skills sir .
Amazing detail work that always seems to surpass your previous video.
Regarder votre travail, c'est la même sensation intense qu'au musée face à un chef-d'œuvre de la peinture ou de la scupture.
Incredible stuff. A pleasure to watch. I wonder what would happen if you did a 1/12 or even a 1/8...they would probably run...You are a world class artist!
I can't wait to hear it fire up! Looks amazing 😀
Thank you for the video. A peek inside your mastery. The door panels and the horn assembly is vision and creativity to another level. 🏆🏆🏆
Fantastic work like always, those door cards look amazing with all the details you've put into them. Well done 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you always!
Amazing work on the mustang! And thank you so much for the tutorial on glues. I remember you did one on putty, glue and tools before. They are a massive help to me. 😊😊😊
I'm glad it helped you.
As always , superb skills and craftsmanship and regarding the glues , you must have been reading my mind ! I was going to ask you why so many different choices . Thankyou ❤
Awesome work! 😎👍
Once again my friend you have gone beyond what any self respecting modeller would call detail - they are even better than the real thing. The glue test was interesting, I was surprised with the epoxy, thought that would come out on top🤔 Carry on Sir👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for enjoying the video.
Museum Quality Model Making, a True Artist ⭐⭐⭐⭐👍👍🏁
His attention to every detail is superb.
Excellent work again 🇬🇧
Thank you for showing the different glues and their charakteiristics... greetings feom germany
Das wollte ich auch gerade schreiben!
einfach Klasse ... nicht nur seine Modelle ... alles genial ...
@@andreasbecker2916 Hast Du den Mercedes 300 SL von ihm gesehen? Absolut traumhaft!
Er hat mal bei einem Model die Zündfolge 1,2,3,4, verkabelt und ich habe ihn darauf hingewiese! Seitdem stimmen die Zündfolgen bei seinen Modellen!
@@ralphkunze6441ja habe alle Modelle gesehen ... einfach ein Traum ... das ist Scale ... absolut perfekt ... keine blöde Musik in den Videos ... einfach nur Modellbau
@@andreasbecker2916 He is a MASTER BUILDER in is own class, never seeing such attention to details and I was a airplane mechanic for Pratt & Whitney for 18 Years
이것이 쇼츠의 묘미가 아닌가 합니다.
스치는 향기로 진미를 찾는 묘미
지금도 너무나 좋은 작품들이지만 더 발전 하시는
작가 되시길 바라며 지켜 보겠습니다.
즐겁게 봐주셔서 감사합니다^^
🤙🏻👍🏻
This man is the Best Model Builder that I’ve ever seen! 🏆
BLOWN AWAY, AGAIN!😊
진짜 결과물이 어떻게 나올지 정말 기대 됩니다.
멋진 영상 고맙습니다. 작업 내용을 보고 나니 만들어진 작품의 가치를 더 잘 알 수 있게 되는 것 같습니다. 접착을 위해 핀셋을 쓰시는 동안에는 저도 모르게 숨을 참게 되더랍니다. ^^
접착제 바르고 통에 내던지는 듯한 소리 나만 중독됐음!!??
항상 존경하고 응원합니다❤❤❤
저도 그 청아한(?) 소리에 중독된 사람들 중 한 명입니다. ^^
그 소리는 ASMR 입니다.
잠들며 듣고 싶은 소리에요 ㅎㅎ
Me encantan sus videos, me gusta en la manera que lo filmas, en su paciencia, en su arte, es una maravilla cada una de ellas, gracias por sus videos
Gracias por disfrutar el vídeo.
wow...great model builder!...keep it up!
Thank you for sharing all you knowledge.
毎回自作で極限までリアルを追及する様に驚愕させられています。
後半の接着剤の強度試験＆切削度試験も興味深かったです。
タミヤの２液エポキシ接着剤は自分も使ったことあるのですが、強力なのは間違いないのですが黄変するので使いどころを考えたほうがいいと思います。
有難うございます。エポキシ接着剤はできれば見えないところで使用しています。
Excellent glue test ! Very helpful .......................................USA
최근에 영상이 빠르게 올라오네요 😮
좋은 퀄리티 영상 감사합니다 항상 잘보고있습니다!
항상 봐주셔서 감사합니다!
최고예요!!
자랑스러운 대한국민
이분은 예술가입니다..
Joy to watch, thank you
Outstanding work!!!
이정도면 무한도전이네요.
모델링 유투버들 여기저기 보지만 이만큼 공들이고 세세한 부분도 놓치지 않는 모델러는 보질 못했습니다.
대장정의 마무리 기대하고 있겠습니다
기회가 된다면 언제 한 번 전시회 열면 좋겠네요.
완성까지 멀지 않은것 같습니다. 감사합니다^^
Thanks my friend for sharing another next level video with us. I took a picture of all the glue you use!!👌👌👌👌
I don't think there will be a problem with just one or two adhesives, but I uploaded the test because I thought it would be good to use it in the right place. Thanks!
Absolut fantastic work. You‘re very talented in improving parts. Awesome. 🤩
I have this car in real and it is stunning to see how acurate the details are.
In italia questo si chiama capolavoro. Greatings from Marche, Italy
Not only in Italy....
Great work again. And faster and faster! Congratulations 👏
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Muchas gracias por el día de hoy.... la verdad increíble lo que hiciste, mas el adicional de los pegamentos, creo que dos puedo conseguir que son los pegamentos loctite 401 y el 420. pero los demás es imposible, pero bueno me ayuda bastante.
Me alegro que te haya resultado útil. gracias
Хочу подарить этому парню модель 1/18 и 1/8 только ради того, чтобы насладится видео с безупречной сборкой.
Эпоксидка топ, тест еще раз это подтвердил.
П.с. никто не встречал lambo diablo в 1:8?
Thank you 🙏🏼
I've watched all your builds over the past few years and am still amazed with the attention to details, which I rate it as museum quality. Btw, will you build Tamiya's 1/24 Nissan/Datsun 240Z?
amazing detail
du grand art bravo
I am disappointed that you couldn't figure out a way to actually make the window roll up and down with the crank. 😀 as always, simply stunned by your level of detail in the most minute of details.
it is possible to do on old cars like that its a gear/scissor mechanism that could be made at that scale the problem is the window specifically winding material stiff enough to retain its shape and not bend but also be very thin plexiglass or lexan would work if you can find it that thin but yeah it would be possible
I am pretty sure you could actually make a working door and window handles if we gave you enough time lol!
This is beyound awesome!!!
I have one question
What brand is the yellow putty you use???
I hope this video helps.
th-cam.com/video/8vwh9eXow8w/w-d-xo.html
thank you
Merci
Wow! What did you use to sharpen the door handles at 11:10??? Please tell me!)👀🤩🤓🎉👏👍😂
I used a mini diamond file.
@@A4Garage Oh, thank you)🤝 But let me also know, what exactly did you sharpen it from? What did you use as a blank for this part?🧐 I mean that cone-shaped part to which the door handle is attached, which you made from steel strips)😁👏🤓
❤❤❤
How do you get measurements for the scratchbuilt pieces you make? Like the inner door ends etc. Just going by photos?
I'm measuring it with my eyes after looking at pictures I've searched on the Internet.
Looks like the loctite is the way to go for most of these things...
I’ve been able to locate some Top Studio products, but I have yet to find the large assortment of rivets. Where can I find that?
You can find it in a model shop.
I'm looking for some proper adhesives for my models, it happened more than once for the glue to ruin my almost perfect finish. Is Loctite 420 good for clear plastic as well? Also, why did you use the other glue when gluing the radiator support? Thank you!
If you can put the object to be put in the correct place in a short time without any mistakes at once, it would be better to use a strong adhesive, but if not, I think it would be better to be able to modify it while curing moderately slowly.
The 420 retains quite a bit of transparency, but you can't remove it if you make a mistake, so you have to be careful about using it on top of transparent parts.
@@A4Garage steady hands is a requirement I guess, thank you!
사용하시는 순간접착제(Locktite)와 cement 리뷰 부탁드립니다. ㅎㅎ
What brand are those insect pins? I can’t find anything like those. The ones I found all have a blob on top rather than a flat head.
You can find it if you search it with inspect pin00.
Can anyone tell me... what (brand, etc.) is the yellow (putty?) material used on the interior panel? Also, let me add, oh, I wish I had the patience that you show while working with a kit.
I don't remember but he has a video with his all materials here on the channel.
I hope this video helps.
th-cam.com/video/8vwh9eXow8w/w-d-xo.html
I may have missed it, what is the yellow putty you use.
Please refer to this video.
th-cam.com/video/8vwh9eXow8w/w-d-xo.html
What do you use to polish the nickel?
I will add a description in the next video.
What are you milling for the handle bases? Is it a pop rivet?
i was wondering the same thing it didnt look like any pop rivet i have ever seen as they are usual made of 2 different parts the shank and then the rivet its self
I've ground the lumps I've solder connected to the rod. I couldn't take the video. I'll take a video and upload it when I get a chance in the next task.
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to answer. I see something new every video that I find inspiring, and excited to try for myself. Extraordinary work!
There is nothing for me left to say but in every new video something crazy pops up and i really wonder what is your limit if there is any 🤔🤔🤔🤔.
Award winning stuff.magnifazint
May I know the name of the yellow sealer you applied?
I hope this video helps.
th-cam.com/video/8vwh9eXow8w/w-d-xo.html
i find that for gluing dissimilar materials together there is only three actual options for a permanent bond that will last that is 1 super glue aka ca glue 2 uv cure resin and 3 epoxy all others i have tried just dont work that well and of the three named they dont work on everything it all depends on the materials
I agree with you, but I think even if it sticks well with moderate strength, it can be removed if you want, and I also need glue that has a clean surface after removal.
Pouvez vous me dire combien il y a de pieces détachées quand le modele sera terminé ? 👍
Je ne sais pas exactement de quelles pièces j'ai besoin car je les fabrique à la volée, mais j'ai beaucoup de matériel pour elles. merci
Maybe you can try to make your own glue.
For example by mixing a little Super Glue and a little baking soda.
But be careful, wear a pair of glasses to protect your eyes and open a window because it generates heat (60 C) and a little gas.
There are videos that show this on youtube, it is strong enough to make a key or nuts.
Thanks for the good information. I've seen it before, but I'll try it next time I get a chance.
@@A4Garage Thank you for your kind answer
It kindly informs the order and explanation of making the work similar to that, and even the necessary materials. But we are not him.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I hope To make that skill
ボンドは結局どれが最適なんでしょうか？
タミヤの２液タイプが硬化も早くていいと思ってたら２４時間後に簡単にはがれてしまうし・・・
模型に使う限りではどれも大きく問題はないと思いますが、特性に合わせて使用したら良いと思います。エポキシボンドは透明版の上だから取れましたが表面に傷をつけると結構強いです。失敗して取れてよかったと思う時がしょっちゅうありますのであまり強力すぎるのも怖いかもしれません。
형. 업로드 속도가 느리다. 채찍이 필요한걸까..?
This builds got completely out of hand. Good lord.
Great job
Что за проплаченая реклама китайского клея?
Эти клеи разные и для разных целей.
Для чего это?