Always use yellow tape/dope because it's helpful to identify what's in the pipe especially for safety. That's the main reason. Also yellow tape or paint goes a long way as bonus.
I remember back when I started my apprenticeship some 43-years ago, using Rectorseal No. 5; it filled the gaps between the connections of the pipe threads and was a great lubricant/sealer, for which it was designed for. A few year later, along came Teflon (white) tape- a few wraps around the threads without having to use any compound- was an acceptable and approved practice in the trade (in my area) by the gas company and building inspectors. Of course, now in my area, today's standard requires the use of gas-rated Teflon tape (yellow) and pipe thread compound. You have to use both. If you buried black iron pipe for gas, the piping was yellow plastic coated, and a yellow-coated mastic adhesive tape had to be wound and overlapped around any exposed pipe and fittings; that was, until the advent of Gastite PE underground piping. As was the requirement then, as it is now, for test pressure/leakage, the installer must charge the line with 15 p.s.i. of air using a 30-lb test gauge and it must hold the pressure for 30+ minutes without any pressure drop. Of course with direct burial, there are many requirements needed to be fulfilled for inspection approval; such as the depth (42"), sleeved in a clear sch. 80 x 6" round PVC pipe; whereas the 6" pipe must be laid in a 6" bed of sand, and a tracer line attached to the underground gas pipe. (Of course, you have to use natural gas risers and brackets, etc.).
Just a side note about the PE underground plastic service tubing. I built in 1987 and personally installed the orange PE plastic. Had a leak at the road tap this year and the gas company demanded that they install the new yellow PE plastic pipe from the road to my meter 400 feet back. I was a bit incensed as I shot the original line with a transit and put it in a sand bed. I knew they would not install the new line that well and they just bored most of it except for crossing my creek. That said, when I researched it, I found that there is a propensity for the orange PE plastic manufactured in the 1980's to stress crack.
That flex connector is not designed for outdoor use. Also just for information stainless steel flex connectors can corrode. Use Dormont with PVC coating
This flex connector is made for outdoor use. It is supplied with the generator for outside use. I have close to 100 generators with this connection. None have leaked or corroded. Stainless can corrode. Yet has to be exposed to to harsh environment. Generac use to give a black rubber hose so did Kohler. Yet this is a better pipe for vibration. I seen the rubber connectors dry rot
The best way to ensure you won't get many thumbs up, subscribers, or even return viewers is to find poor workmanship, ignore it, and continue it anyway. The fact that you actually posted this video after showing the flex is too short and not fixing it shows us all we need to know about your work ethics. Ridiculous
Just a hint. Those flex connections supplied by Generac are stainless steel. Stainless steel has a tendency to gall. So for the best connection a little pipe dope or Nyloc on the threads helps the threads to go together without galling.
Wow... the way you pull from the flex connector at 7:27 ! It is obviously too short and as a professional that you are, you should have replaced it rather than stretch it like that and keep in tension. That will create a leak!
I had play with the main gas pipe to move it. Manufacturer wants this kept straight with no slack. Or I would change or add a nipple: it’s only for vibration protection on main gas line to generator
I'm sure you know this but the Pro-dope is not approved for LP gas. That kinda makes it more of a pain because I need two types but I like the easy clean up. Good video Hacker 👍👍
I had some slack I just needed to pull the support bracket a-little closer. If you go back to we’re I leak searched the pipe. Slack can be seen in the flexible gas pipe. While I am leak searching.
Also, it’s supplied with the generator and is supposed to be installed straight per manufacturer’s instructions. I thought the same thing the first time I installed one, but this is a good install.
I advise to bathe the entire body of the flex-line with the soap test. Pinhole leaks on the body of the flex-line occur, from the manufacturer to the warehouse. And go with longer nipples so that the flex-line has ample play when fully connected.
That's a nice jacket Hacker. 👍 You and your fancy Knipex pliers getting it done. They almost screwed you on that. It was a close one. Happy Thanksgiving buddy.
I have a question, if you’re removing a section of pipe or a flex pipe and one of the pipes you don’t want to remove loosens a little. Can you just tighten up the one that moved a little and just tighten it? Or do you have to remove the pipe that moved a little and re-tape and dope it to reinstall!
Remove pipe and put new sealant into threads. You have a possible air gap in the existing seal. Due to liability issues I just take apart back to the pipe that moves. Then reseal everything. I know more work. I rather sleep good at night than fearing the what if’s
The gas wasn't on yet. He just got done doing a pressure test with air, made the connection, however terrible it was, and then turned the gas on at the source
While true that residential gas pressure is commonly low, you must secure the pipe to the threaded joints correctly. A great example of this is shortly after at 8:00, you attempted to tighten the "Flare Connection" and all the way back to your shutoff connection untightened due to the connections not being properly tightened! Also, You should have an appropriate sized flex connector as the one you have installed is inappropriately tensioned and is not suitable for application!. As plumbers, we must put our best practices at use all the time! You can do better than this! Good Luck!
@@PedroGonzalez-pc6nb I went to Lowe’s and they only had the yellow flex pipe used for inside the home. Are you sure they have this flex pipe at Home Depot. It looks to be different than what they carry
Have you heard anything on the new Nylog White? It’s a silicone based sealant that can be used on high pressure refrigeration lines, but also seals gas, air, and water. Supposedly techs are just using this across the board. It’s supposed to stay wet and never dry. I have never used it myself but saw it reviewed by an HVAC School channel.
I haven’t tried nylon for gas pipe. I B might sound close minded. Yet their are a lot more expensive and suppose to be better pipe sealants than ProDope by Hercules. Many might like the other sealants better. Yet I go with what works for me. Never return for any leaks with the prodope. I get same results with other sealants except many are not easy to clean, while also costing 3 times the amount. My employer switched to real tuff and mega lock. I had a boiler leak I couldn’t seal with the megalock. Union on an on demand boiler was a little messed up. The prodope was able to seal up the treads. Not sure what that says when a 4 dollar thread sealer made me throw a $16 dollar sealer into the trash and never want to use. Nylog is ok yet it eats up my hose gaskets. I use pump oil instead when pulling a vacuum.
now days yes, don't use the cheap white teflon on gas lines! years ago the teflon tape came in different flavors of density and width. density is key, which is what all the "born again multi-color tapes are. pay no mind to the tape color but LOOK at the tape and devices to ensure proper UL listings/ratings. oh those are water shutoff valves(on gas line) no look at the ratings stamped on body and handle both :))
I'm appalled your hooking up gas, I'm appalled you made a video.....please get some training. "The HVAC Hacker" is a great name for your channel.....smh
You can crack brass fittings. Or with steel crack or bottom out the threads and the fitting leaks. Gas pressure isn’t even 1/2psi my union wasn’t leaking and only hand tight. Once you feel some resistance using wrenches it should be tight enough.
1. When the inspector performs the pressure test, are the other appliances disconnected and pipe ends capped off or did you isolate the appliance using their shutoff valve? 2. After the inspection, do you dis-assemble some of the pipes to re-connect all appliances? I heard adding air with appliances connected could damage its valves.
The new line is piped into the meter. Then isolated with a ball valve. Need to have line isolated and holding pressure. Could take a week or two for inspection. Can’t leave a customer without gas to house. Air won’t hurt gas appliances. Too much pressure can hurt. Pressure test usually half gauge 7-8 lbs pressure. Gas allliances operate under 1/2lb of pressure.After inspection I bleed out the air,connect to generator or furnace. I let the pressure of the air outside before opening the isolation valve.
Are you talking about a rubber gas pipe, such as one used for a bbq? I would just bring the csst right into steel pipe. The rubber gas line would have to be rated for the Btu’s of the gas appliance.
@@thehvachacker yeah the Reznor come with rubber gas line your supposed to use for vibrations or what have you. One of my coworkers called me said the boss wanted his to go from gas tight to rubber to the unit. I scratched my head like um thats not common practice ! So the rubber hose is definitely rated for the btus just didn't make sense to me . Mind you im a journeyman gas fitter just never came across this issue before
I would think with the csst a vibration damper wouldn’t be needed. Many space heaters in Jersey are pipe steel all the way. Yet I could see how a vibration buffer can always help.
Please take this video down. IT shows improper technique. No one should do anything similar to what you've shown. We are all worse off for having watched this.
This guy is terrible, by stretching the flexible hose out like that because it's too short, it will eventually rip apart after all the vibrations. What he should have done is push the ground stake holding the pipes towards the generator more to make up for the shortage. Better yet, get a longer flexible hose! This guy is lazy and did not do this correctly.
Actually I repositioned the racket, strut bar used to support the gas. This pipe is still intact and leak free as of 3 days ago when I did the generator maintenance
The line is pressurized with air, not gas, to get rough inspection and show there are no leaks. If he had turned off that last valve before removing the gauge, then there would still be air in the line. Leaving it on you bleed all the air of the line.
No yet above ground last a long time. The paint is always missing on most roofs I work on. Pipes turn orange yet don’t run into many springing leaks. You see a lot of RTU gas piping rot through?
Η σωλήνα του υγραερίου η αερίου πρέπει να είναι χαλκοσωληνας και όχι σπιράλ δεν κάνει γιατί δεν έχει ενίσχυση είναι μονου τειχωματος ενώ ο χαλκός είναι πιο συμπαγές .
@@thehvachacker I do want to apologize for my rude wording. Just used part of your name for my response! The flex line used is not just there for a vibration dampener though. On those big Gen sets it is also there to allow for some settling and movement. The gas control valve inside the unit doesn't want any pressure on it. Keep up the gas piping! Not enough of us left that want to keep doing it. 👍
You sir are the cat's meow. Excellent job! Now I know what to use and what to do. Thank you so much for sharing.
The Great Hacker always tells all his trade tricks ! He is a great instructor !!
Always use yellow tape/dope because it's helpful to identify what's in the pipe especially for safety. That's the main reason. Also yellow tape or paint goes a long way as bonus.
Natural gas is mostly what Al heating system run on around me
Pretty sure installing a gas connector with that kind of tension clearly violates all applicable fuel gas codes. Never ever do this...
You need a longer flex bud that things gonna break
That flexible connector is way too stretched and will split , it's just a matter of when.....!!!!!
I remember back when I started my apprenticeship some 43-years ago, using Rectorseal No. 5; it filled the gaps between the connections of the pipe threads and was a great lubricant/sealer, for which it was designed for. A few year later, along came Teflon (white) tape- a few wraps around the threads without having to use any compound- was an acceptable and approved practice in the trade (in my area) by the gas company and building inspectors. Of course, now in my area, today's standard requires the use of gas-rated Teflon tape (yellow) and pipe thread compound. You have to use both. If you buried black iron pipe for gas, the piping was yellow plastic coated, and a yellow-coated mastic adhesive tape had to be wound and overlapped around any exposed pipe and fittings; that was, until the advent of Gastite PE underground piping. As was the requirement then, as it is now, for test pressure/leakage, the installer must charge the line with 15 p.s.i. of air using a 30-lb test gauge and it must hold the pressure for 30+ minutes without any pressure drop. Of course with direct burial, there are many requirements needed to be fulfilled for inspection approval; such as the depth (42"), sleeved in a clear sch. 80 x 6" round PVC pipe; whereas the 6" pipe must be laid in a 6" bed of sand, and a tracer line attached to the underground gas pipe. (Of course, you have to use natural gas risers and brackets, etc.).
Just a side note about the PE underground plastic service tubing. I built in 1987 and personally installed the orange PE plastic. Had a leak at the road tap this year and the gas company demanded that they install the new yellow PE plastic pipe from the road to my meter 400 feet back. I was a bit incensed as I shot the original line with a transit and put it in a sand bed. I knew they would not install the new line that well and they just bored most of it except for crossing my creek. That said, when I researched it, I found that there is a propensity for the orange PE plastic manufactured in the 1980's to stress crack.
GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHAT NOT TO DO !!!
Way too much tension on that flex pipe, you need a slightly longer iron pipe.
SHould have swapped out the line with a longer one and one rated for outdoors.
Yeah I can't believe he's doing that he's going to break through being something whether it's the damn element in the central heat or the flex pipe
Way too much pressure on that flex pipe. Doesn’t allow for any vibration or movement. Go get a longer extension piece.
Better to put in a new pipe and have slack In the flex pipe.....
That flex connector is not designed for outdoor use. Also just for information stainless steel flex connectors can corrode. Use Dormont with PVC coating
This flex connector is made for outdoor use. It is supplied with the generator for outside use. I have close to 100 generators with this connection. None have leaked or corroded. Stainless can corrode. Yet has to be exposed to to harsh environment. Generac use to give a black rubber hose so did Kohler. Yet this is a better pipe for vibration. I seen the rubber connectors dry rot
Looks like the flex my not have enough flex. Vibration from unit may create leak after several uses.
The purpose of flex type is not to be under any pressure like any. Imagine if you live in earthquake zone.
Man! That is too short.. dont leave it like that
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ouch! Nothing worse than a preloaded line! I would never pull on the pipe going into the generator either!
The best way to ensure you won't get many thumbs up, subscribers, or even return viewers is to find poor workmanship, ignore it, and continue it anyway. The fact that you actually posted this video after showing the flex is too short and not fixing it shows us all we need to know about your work ethics. Ridiculous
Just a hint. Those flex connections supplied by Generac are stainless steel. Stainless steel has a tendency to gall. So for the best connection a little pipe dope or Nyloc on the threads helps the threads to go together without galling.
should use non-corrosive leak test solution
Wow... the way you pull from the flex connector at 7:27 ! It is obviously too short and as a professional that you are, you should have replaced it rather than stretch it like that and keep in tension. That will create a leak!
I had play with the main gas pipe to move it. Manufacturer wants this kept straight with no slack. Or I would change or add a nipple: it’s only for vibration protection on main gas line to generator
I'm sure you know this but the Pro-dope is not approved for LP gas. That kinda makes it more of a pain because I need two types but I like the easy clean up. Good video Hacker 👍👍
I keep real tuff also yet mostly deal with natural gas. Is lp often used around you?
@@thehvachacker yes I'm in a rural area, we have natural gas in town but in the country it's LP or Geothermal
Gasoila is the best. 🏆
@@jeffreyjohn2037 never heard of it. I'll have to check it out.
Too much stress on that flex fitting. Don't be that guy, go back and replace it with a longer one.
I agree 😊
I had some slack I just needed to pull the support bracket a-little closer. If you go back to we’re I leak searched the pipe. Slack can be seen in the flexible gas pipe. While I am leak searching.
Also, it’s supplied with the generator and is supposed to be installed straight per manufacturer’s instructions. I thought the same thing the first time I installed one, but this is a good install.
Cool as a cucumber; good detail instructions
I advise to bathe the entire body of the flex-line with the soap test. Pinhole leaks on the body of the flex-line occur, from the manufacturer to the warehouse. And go with longer nipples so that the flex-line has ample play when fully connected.
Windex for testing leaks come on please
Great video. Thank you.
im learning. make it work . i do agree that looks short i usaully see alot more slak at other homes. just saying
Good video , you like your soft set dope ,should switch to PLS2 for gas
Fancy way to stretch pipe...
Where do you get those made in usa black pipe fittings?
Good video .
Will this work for air compressor fittings? My compressor goes to 150 PSI
That's a nice jacket Hacker. 👍
You and your fancy Knipex pliers getting it done. They almost screwed you on that. It was a close one. Happy Thanksgiving buddy.
I like this jacket. They sure don’t make jackets like this today. Not bad for a coat I wear all winter at work since 2006. This jacket was made 💪
1 last comment. Since when are you aloud to use a spring gauge? I’m always required to use diaphragm gauges because they actually show leaks
ALLOWED, not ALOUD.
You are not ALLOWED to speak ALOUD in a public library.
@@mjremy2605 A LOUD noise is heard ALOUD.
I have a question, if you’re removing a section of pipe or a flex pipe and one of the pipes you don’t want to remove loosens a little. Can you just tighten up the one that moved a little and just tighten it? Or do you have to remove the pipe that moved a little and re-tape and dope it to reinstall!
Remove pipe and put new sealant into threads. You have a possible air gap in the existing seal. Due to liability issues I just take apart back to the pipe that moves. Then reseal everything. I know more work. I rather sleep good at night than fearing the what if’s
@@thehvachacker Thank you! I appreciate the honesty
@@thehvachacker Yeah. then you should go fix that loose pipe @8:00
You need that union for any future service
the flex hose acts as a union
Throw that teflon tape in the junk. It gets into valves
I feel the same way. Yet the blue Teflon and yellow Teflon don’t deteriorate like the white. I always use dope for gas.
@@thehvachacker try telling people that.
Why did you not turn the shutoff valve off? Doing all this work with gas just flowing out? WTF?
The gas wasn't on yet. He just got done doing a pressure test with air, made the connection, however terrible it was, and then turned the gas on at the source
While true that residential gas pressure is commonly low, you must secure the pipe to the threaded joints correctly. A great example of this is shortly after at 8:00, you attempted to tighten the "Flare Connection" and all the way back to your shutoff connection untightened due to the connections not being properly tightened! Also, You should have an appropriate sized flex connector as the one you have installed is inappropriately tensioned and is not suitable for application!. As plumbers, we must put our best practices at use all the time! You can do better than this! Good Luck!
Yeah, that pipe twisted on him near the wall.
Where can I buy that flex pipe I need one for my generator. someone installed the generator with an solid non flex pipe
Home Depot, Lowes or any Hardware store
@@PedroGonzalez-pc6nb I went to Lowe’s and they only had the yellow flex pipe used for inside the home. Are you sure they have this flex pipe at Home Depot. It looks to be different than what they carry
How many threads is a minunim
Are u asking to dope or to tighten?
Have you heard anything on the new Nylog White? It’s a silicone based sealant that can be used on high pressure refrigeration lines, but also seals gas, air, and water. Supposedly techs are just using this across the board. It’s supposed to stay wet and never dry. I have never used it myself but saw it reviewed by an HVAC School channel.
I will use the appropriate sealant according to the manufacturer instructions, I mean some sealants will be ok for water but not for gas for instance.
I haven’t tried nylon for gas pipe. I B might sound close minded. Yet their are a lot more expensive and suppose to be better pipe sealants than ProDope by Hercules. Many might like the other sealants better. Yet I go with what works for me. Never return for any leaks with the prodope. I get same results with other sealants except many are not easy to clean, while also costing 3 times the amount. My employer switched to real tuff and mega lock. I had a boiler leak I couldn’t seal with the megalock. Union on an on demand boiler was a little messed up. The prodope was able to seal up the treads. Not sure what that says when a 4 dollar thread sealer made me throw a $16 dollar sealer into the trash and never want to use. Nylog is ok yet it eats up my hose gaskets. I use pump oil instead when pulling a vacuum.
now days yes, don't use the cheap white teflon on gas lines! years ago the teflon tape came in different flavors of density and width. density is key, which is what all the "born again multi-color tapes are. pay no mind to the tape color but LOOK at the tape and devices to ensure proper UL listings/ratings.
oh those are water shutoff valves(on gas line) no look at the ratings stamped on body and handle both :))
I'm appalled your hooking up gas, I'm appalled you made a video.....please get some training. "The HVAC Hacker" is a great name for your channel.....smh
Can i apply that sealant during winter? The temperature around 32-50
Hi sir can you give me a list of sealant for gas pipe 🙏
Φλατζοκολλα λέγεται για υγραερίο
Typical guys always think it’s longer than what it really is.
1 inch more would’ve felt a lot better
That's what she said... a few times.
What happens if you over tighten? And how do you know when you've over tightened?
You can crack brass fittings. Or with steel crack or bottom out the threads and the fitting leaks. Gas pressure isn’t even 1/2psi my union wasn’t leaking and only hand tight. Once you feel some resistance using wrenches it should be tight enough.
@@thehvachacker OK thank you
run!!!!!
1. When the inspector performs the pressure test, are the other appliances disconnected and pipe ends capped off or did you isolate the appliance using their shutoff valve?
2. After the inspection, do you dis-assemble some of the pipes to re-connect all appliances?
I heard adding air with appliances connected could damage its valves.
The new line is piped into the meter. Then isolated with a ball valve. Need to have line isolated and holding pressure. Could take a week or two for inspection. Can’t leave a customer without gas to house. Air won’t hurt gas appliances. Too much pressure can hurt. Pressure test usually half gauge 7-8 lbs pressure. Gas allliances operate under 1/2lb of pressure.After inspection I bleed out the air,connect to generator or furnace. I let the pressure of the air outside before opening the isolation valve.
Also you’re only getting 5 ounces I don’t know where you came up with the higher number?
Settlement???
True Hack. Don't do this.
Oh. Dear.
Run!!!!!!
Nope....Definately not a Gasfitter
😅
Really?.. should have used a longer flex connection. Not good posting bad practices like that.
The flex connector had slack when I was bubble spraying. The support post needed to just be pulled into place
Dude that connection is not right lol
Too tight he whet back and adjusted it you can tell lol
Flex is too short
No it’s not. That is done to manufacturers specs
@@thehvachacker plumbing and national building codes take precedent over that.
Its a ll trash...grape
I was asked the other day can you go csst to black hose connector on a garage heater? Anybody ?
Are you talking about a rubber gas pipe, such as one used for a bbq? I would just bring the csst right into steel pipe. The rubber gas line would have to be rated for the Btu’s of the gas appliance.
@@thehvachacker yeah the Reznor come with rubber gas line your supposed to use for vibrations or what have you. One of my coworkers called me said the boss wanted his to go from gas tight to rubber to the unit. I scratched my head like um thats not common practice ! So the rubber hose is definitely rated for the btus just didn't make sense to me . Mind you im a journeyman gas fitter just never came across this issue before
I would think with the csst a vibration damper wouldn’t be needed. Many space heaters in Jersey are pipe steel all the way. Yet I could see how a vibration buffer can always help.
Please take this video down. IT shows improper technique. No one should do anything similar to what you've shown. We are all worse off for having watched this.
This guy is terrible, by stretching the flexible hose out like that because it's too short, it will eventually rip apart after all the vibrations. What he should have done is push the ground stake holding the pipes towards the generator more to make up for the shortage. Better yet, get a longer flexible hose! This guy is lazy and did not do this correctly.
Actually I repositioned the racket, strut bar used to support the gas. This pipe is still intact and leak free as of 3 days ago when I did the generator maintenance
At 4:30 to 5:00, he's taking off the pressure gauge 'before' turning off the shutoff valve on the line . WTF?
The line is pressurized with air, not gas, to get rough inspection and show there are no leaks. If he had turned off that last valve before removing the gauge, then there would still be air in the line. Leaving it on you bleed all the air of the line.
Black iron pipe out
Always use black iron pipe. Best stuff for gas
@@thehvachacker not outside must paint it in California no BLK iron outside
It is painted black before my connection. I also painted my connection after the video. In Jersey we also have to paint outdoor steel gas lines
@@thehvachacker cool I have seen black iron under ground it doesn't last long
No yet above ground last a long time. The paint is always missing on most roofs I work on. Pipes turn orange yet don’t run into many springing leaks. You see a lot of RTU gas piping rot through?
Way off the mark.
Η σωλήνα του υγραερίου η αερίου πρέπει να είναι χαλκοσωληνας και όχι σπιράλ δεν κάνει γιατί δεν έχει ενίσχυση είναι μονου τειχωματος ενώ ο χαλκός είναι πιο συμπαγές .
Nice illustration. Thank you
Hack job.
Done to manufacturers specs, how can you say hack job? That flex isn’t suppose to be loose just a vibration damper.
@@thehvachacker I do want to apologize for my rude wording. Just used part of your name for my response! The flex line used is not just there for a vibration dampener though. On those big Gen sets it is also there to allow for some settling and movement. The gas control valve inside the unit doesn't want any pressure on it. Keep up the gas piping! Not enough of us left that want to keep doing it. 👍
WINDEX for gas leak testing...insanely dumb and irresponsible
How is Windex dumb and irresponsible please explain
Can you please explain to me why Windex is irresponsible and dumb clearly later on a video he loosened up the fitting in bubbles appeared
@@comeandgetit Windex has ammonia and ammonia is corrosive to metal...
@@StrongManMattt Yes, just use water and soap