Steve - that is an elegant design, indeed! Very well thought-out, especially with the constraints of being low-cost, and not requiring any machine tools at all! I'll be extremely interested to see how well it works, once you have built the first article. I always find ways to improve a design after the first execution, and it wouldn't surprise me if you do, too.
Fantastic design! I hope you're able to generate some income from all your efforts here. Maybe offer a waterjet or plasma cut kit with all the steel pieces and sell the plans. Edit: Just finished the video. Glad you're considering it! Really looking forward to this build!
Definitely budget friendly, but not very stiff. Putting wood in the middle, and sheet metal on the sides would have made the spine a lot stiffer. Doesnt even need to be 1/8 inch. Something really thin like 20 to 24 gauge would have been enough. Otherwise i am quite impressed.
I like it! It kind of reminds me of the low budget spine jig I made for my last frame build, however, I like the low tech adjustability you've incorporated into your design. I'm probably going to use a few of your ideas to modify my jig on my next project. Thanks for making/doing this! It will definitely open the door for future frame builders that were intimidated by the high cost of equipment needed to get started.
@@PithyBikes Basically, I used 2" square mild steel. I welded two sections at a 90 and sandwiched 2 x 1/4" plates on either end of the upright section of the beam and used an old 1" threaded steerer tube with some old headset parts for the cones to center the headtube. On the bottom, I used 2 more 2" square tubes for the dummy axle and BB. Here's the youtube link: th-cam.com/video/xXoliAiaG2g/w-d-xo.html Definitely more rudimentary, but a similar concept.
Hi I am currently doing a electrical bicycle for a project this jig will save me a lot of money If possible can please send the 3d model of jig it would be really helpful
I never did a follow up on this jig. It's ok but doesn't quite pass my seal of approval due to unpredictable tolerances depending on how it is constructed. I do plan to make another with simpler and higher tolerances.
You will want to put another spacer or two between the seat tube holder sides to make it less floppy. You can double up some of the brackets with an angle profile to make the extended pieces more rigid. If you make the bottom bracket and head tube holder similar to the seat tube holder, you could make it hold a funky recumbent. A baltic birch plywood would be more than adequate replacement for most of the the steel plates. Most everything could be made out of the off- cut from the 1/2" spacer piece. Less problem with moisture and lighter all ply instead of MDF. Biggest expense would be the fixture knobs but you could make some from t-nuts or threaded inserts in plywood and be all in under $100.
One added bonus of doing the straps with wood is that they are not as slippery as metal and will be less prone to slipping. My only quibble is that it might be too good and too cheap to just make a dedicated non-adjustable alignment jig for each bike build. Just a set of holders for the bottom bracket, tubes and drop outs that you move to each one.
Brilliant. Very smart to hold the rear axle in the middle like that because it's difficult to keep it square otherwise without something really solid. That laminated design so you can leave square channels for things is genius. I'm guessing you're going to turn that wooden cone on a drill. This worked quite well for me. The wooden cones can get a little bit singed when you're tacking the frame (with TIG) but it's not a huge issue. If you were torch brazing not sure a wooden jig is feasible anyway.
As someone who swaps between MODO and a parametric CAD tool (CATIA or Fusion 360), I concur with your workflow! Concept in a poly modeller, parametric CAD once you generally know what you want.
I will be the first to say that this is definitely not the best jig design. :) But! I consider it a good jig for the rest of us who don't want to spend 1k+ on a jig. It is the jig i wish I could have built before I knew what a decent entry level low budget jig could be. But as is with most things in life, I didn't know that until I built my first jig. I'm not a professional frame builder, and this jig is not for the pro builder. It's for the rest of us.
That's really nice. I'm thinking more from a brazing perspective, so would probably want to make it out of something flame proof. I think the set up for the rear dropouts could also work like the bottom bracket, make it easier to get at the inside of the joint with a torch, but would mean the seat tube holder would have to move back. I'll be keen to see it in action.
I have already started the construction with plywood. I decided not to use any MDF. But! - The beauty of this design is that what materials you choose is completely up to you. We all have a preference and this design should accommodate that.
Hi Steve, Sorry if this is a bit unrelated but I have wanted to ask you this for ages.... I am curious as to how you clean up your Tig weld So? I will be doing some tube welding soon and I imagine I will use my electro polisher to take the discolouring and heat stains out of the welds. Would you mind letting me know how you deal with it? I love your channel, right down to the inclusion of your kids on occasions, it is really nice and above all informative. Kind regards, Simon.
I will clean up TIG welds because I will have to continue welding in that same place. In which case I need to clean the surface with a wire brush. The short answer is - I use a wire brush to clean up my welds when needed. I will dedicate a brush to a specific material type to avoid contamination. So a wire brush used on 4130 is for 4130 only. And a brush used in aluminum is for aluminum only. In general I will leave any discoloration from the weld as is. Thanks for watching and I hope this answers your question. :)
Pithy Bikes Thanks so much . Good to hear you can achieve it with a simple approach. I made a electro polisher for about $100 and it's very good. Only consumable is some phosphoric acid which is cheap. Let me know if you would like to build one some time, I would be happy to help. Cheers, Simon.
Ok, I would like to say I like this thing..intact I would love to build one as I'm no bicycle builder what so ever but I all of a sudden am building one and happened upon this..As I'm building without one of these please don't ask how. But can I please get measurements for over all lengths of the jig and will it do chopper style bikes ? Any help would be great..im doing this as a hobby and this would make it alot more fun than I'm having lol
Fantastic work. +1 for the MDF. IIRC, the jiggernaut is also made out of mdf, but this is a better option for someone that is interested in making more than a few frames. Any thought on a fork jig?
I think the base of this jig could be adapted pretty easily using the same principals to hold a fork. You would need to build a section that attaches the head column to the spine of the jig. The rear drop out fixture could be adapted to hold the fork blades.
Looks very interesting! But the devil is always in details, so I am looking forward to build video, and how it behaves. Some things that give me a slight concerns (though you have probably addressed them): - how tight are tolerances of external dimensions of threaded rods, and would they tend to wobble or "bite" into mdf, - also plywood dimensions could be "nominal", and different from your target 1/2" - general way of tightening things does not seem to be self centering (maybe it is of no concern), - fixture for the seat post is realized through 2 "joints" so tolerances and "wobbliness" could add up if care is not taken (again mabe it is not important). Thanks for trying to construct and make such jig!
For the early stages of an idea, I think about stuff a lot. Then when I have a decent idea, I'll do a sketch on paper. Next step to flesh it out further is to bring it into a 3D app. In my case it is Blender. But for anyone else I would say to do the 3D step in the app you are most familiar in. The idea is to not let the software bog you down creatively. Because Blender is not CAD, then I am sort of forced to not be precise in my measurements. Measurements are important, but for concept - a tolerance of 1/16" is plenty good enough. My opinion! End of the day, do what can produce results fastest that works for you when in concept phase. The idea is to let your ideas fly and choose the method with the least resistance.
great design _ i really like it: Btw: do you offer the plans for 3d printing the materials .. or at least a part of the materials?" look forward to hear from you
Steve - that is an elegant design, indeed! Very well thought-out, especially with the constraints of being low-cost, and not requiring any machine tools at all! I'll be extremely interested to see how well it works, once you have built the first article. I always find ways to improve a design after the first execution, and it wouldn't surprise me if you do, too.
Ron Covell same here Ron! It sometimes happens while I’m in process of building even the first version.
Fantastic design! I hope you're able to generate some income from all your efforts here. Maybe offer a waterjet or plasma cut kit with all the steel pieces and sell the plans.
Edit: Just finished the video. Glad you're considering it! Really looking forward to this build!
Plans will be free!
Definitely budget friendly, but not very stiff. Putting wood in the middle, and sheet metal on the sides would have made the spine a lot stiffer. Doesnt even need to be 1/8 inch. Something really thin like 20 to 24 gauge would have been enough. Otherwise i am quite impressed.
I like it! It kind of reminds me of the low budget spine jig I made for my last frame build, however, I like the low tech adjustability you've incorporated into your design. I'm probably going to use a few of your ideas to modify my jig on my next project. Thanks for making/doing this! It will definitely open the door for future frame builders that were intimidated by the high cost of equipment needed to get started.
Hey Joey, did you use ply or mdf? I’m considering ply instead after reading some of the comments.
@@PithyBikes Basically, I used 2" square mild steel. I welded two sections at a 90 and sandwiched 2 x 1/4" plates on either end of the upright section of the beam and used an old 1" threaded steerer tube with some old headset parts for the cones to center the headtube. On the bottom, I used 2 more 2" square tubes for the dummy axle and BB.
Here's the youtube link: th-cam.com/video/xXoliAiaG2g/w-d-xo.html
Definitely more rudimentary, but a similar concept.
just wow. buying something like that is probably 5000 bucks. and not as adjustable i bet.
Hi do you have the dimensions of the jig
Hi I am currently doing a electrical bicycle for a project this jig will save me a lot of money
If possible can please send the 3d model of jig it would be really helpful
I never did a follow up on this jig. It's ok but doesn't quite pass my seal of approval due to unpredictable tolerances depending on how it is constructed. I do plan to make another with simpler and higher tolerances.
Very nice versatile low tech tight budget fixture, Jigs are much more challenging to design and built than the bicycle frame itself.
Is it Blender that you said is a free 3D app? I’m not finding it.
You will want to put another spacer or two between the seat tube holder sides to make it less floppy. You can double up some of the brackets with an angle profile to make the extended pieces more rigid. If you make the bottom bracket and head tube holder similar to the seat tube holder, you could make it hold a funky recumbent. A baltic birch plywood would be more than adequate replacement for most of the the steel plates. Most everything could be made out of the off- cut from the 1/2" spacer piece. Less problem with moisture and lighter all ply instead of MDF. Biggest expense would be the fixture knobs but you could make some from t-nuts or threaded inserts in plywood and be all in under $100.
David Kirtley Yes my thoughts too!
David Kirtley love the alternatives you mention!
One added bonus of doing the straps with wood is that they are not as slippery as metal and will be less prone to slipping. My only quibble is that it might be too good and too cheap to just make a dedicated non-adjustable alignment jig for each bike build. Just a set of holders for the bottom bracket, tubes and drop outs that you move to each one.
Looking forward to see the build
Brilliant. Very smart to hold the rear axle in the middle like that because it's difficult to keep it square otherwise without something really solid. That laminated design so you can leave square channels for things is genius. I'm guessing you're going to turn that wooden cone on a drill. This worked quite well for me. The wooden cones can get a little bit singed when you're tacking the frame (with TIG) but it's not a huge issue. If you were torch brazing not sure a wooden jig is feasible anyway.
Awesome jig! I built my mini bikes without one and was hell. Something like this would have helped alot.
As someone who swaps between MODO and a parametric CAD tool (CATIA or Fusion 360), I concur with your workflow! Concept in a poly modeller, parametric CAD once you generally know what you want.
I'm a bit behind watching this video, but now I can watch this and part 2 back to back
Great design. I have been looking at few but this is definitely one of the best.
I will be the first to say that this is definitely not the best jig design. :) But! I consider it a good jig for the rest of us who don't want to spend 1k+ on a jig. It is the jig i wish I could have built before I knew what a decent entry level low budget jig could be. But as is with most things in life, I didn't know that until I built my first jig. I'm not a professional frame builder, and this jig is not for the pro builder. It's for the rest of us.
That's really nice. I'm thinking more from a brazing perspective, so would probably want to make it out of something flame proof. I think the set up for the rear dropouts could also work like the bottom bracket, make it easier to get at the inside of the joint with a torch, but would mean the seat tube holder would have to move back. I'll be keen to see it in action.
I don't think MDF and plywood will be the best option. Have a look to OSB panels, they are cheap, easy to find and water-repellent.
I have already started the construction with plywood. I decided not to use any MDF. But! - The beauty of this design is that what materials you choose is completely up to you. We all have a preference and this design should accommodate that.
@@PithyBikes I think is a great design and I'm going to do it with, because I am planning to build my first bike. Thanks for your videos
Hi Steve,
Sorry if this is a bit unrelated but I have wanted to ask you this for ages.... I am curious as to how you clean up your Tig weld So?
I will be doing some tube welding soon and I imagine I will use my electro polisher to take the discolouring and heat stains out of the welds.
Would you mind letting me know how you deal with it?
I love your channel, right down to the inclusion of your kids on occasions, it is really nice and above all informative.
Kind regards,
Simon.
I will clean up TIG welds because I will have to continue welding in that same place. In which case I need to clean the surface with a wire brush. The short answer is - I use a wire brush to clean up my welds when needed. I will dedicate a brush to a specific material type to avoid contamination. So a wire brush used on 4130 is for 4130 only. And a brush used in aluminum is for aluminum only. In general I will leave any discoloration from the weld as is. Thanks for watching and I hope this answers your question. :)
Pithy Bikes
Thanks so much . Good to hear you can achieve it with a simple approach. I made a electro polisher for about $100 and it's very good. Only consumable is some phosphoric acid which is cheap. Let me know if you would like to build one some time, I would be happy to help.
Cheers,
Simon.
Love your videos ... Make more of them ! ✌️
Thank you for sharing your great ideas. Very inspiring!
Ok, I would like to say I like this thing..intact I would love to build one as I'm no bicycle builder what so ever but I all of a sudden am building one and happened upon this..As I'm building without one of these please don't ask how. But can I please get measurements for over all lengths of the jig and will it do chopper style bikes ? Any help would be great..im doing this as a hobby and this would make it alot more fun than I'm having lol
Fantastic work. +1 for the MDF. IIRC, the jiggernaut is also made out of mdf, but this is a better option for someone that is interested in making more than a few frames. Any thought on a fork jig?
I think the base of this jig could be adapted pretty easily using the same principals to hold a fork. You would need to build a section that attaches the head column to the spine of the jig. The rear drop out fixture could be adapted to hold the fork blades.
Very, very cool. Thank you!
excelente diseño¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ muy bueno, Gracias por tanta creatividad¡¡¡
Made of MDF/plywood. Is it tough enough? Nice deisgn, but....
Jan Pernica yes I fell like that too. Have to build and work things out
Wood is the original carbon fiber. :) Modern sheet goods are quite dimensionally stable.
Please, please add a fork jig. Bikes are comprised of frames AND forks. Thanks.
ThAt shouldn’t be a problem. The design is pretty modular
there will be play everywhere. but lets see how this goes.
Looks very interesting! But the devil is always in details, so I am looking forward to build video, and how it behaves. Some things that give me a slight concerns (though you have probably addressed them):
- how tight are tolerances of external dimensions of threaded rods, and would they tend to wobble or "bite" into mdf,
- also plywood dimensions could be "nominal", and different from your target 1/2"
- general way of tightening things does not seem to be self centering (maybe it is of no concern),
- fixture for the seat post is realized through 2 "joints" so tolerances and "wobbliness" could add up if care is not taken (again mabe it is not important).
Thanks for trying to construct and make such jig!
very cool concept just wanna ask the reason using blender over other "proper" CAD
For the early stages of an idea, I think about stuff a lot. Then when I have a decent idea, I'll do a sketch on paper. Next step to flesh it out further is to bring it into a 3D app. In my case it is Blender. But for anyone else I would say to do the 3D step in the app you are most familiar in. The idea is to not let the software bog you down creatively. Because Blender is not CAD, then I am sort of forced to not be precise in my measurements. Measurements are important, but for concept - a tolerance of 1/16" is plenty good enough. My opinion! End of the day, do what can produce results fastest that works for you when in concept phase. The idea is to let your ideas fly and choose the method with the least resistance.
Great !
Hi!!
Great job!! I wonder if you remember the cost of your previous aluminum jig?
Thank in advance!
Why did you build this bike frame jig when you already built one?! Do tell.
Is it possible to use ply or mdf for the 1/8 plates?
great design _ i really like it: Btw: do you offer the plans for 3d printing the materials .. or at least a part of the materials?" look forward to hear from you
Great video but recording is little bit too quiet
Ananas Studio sorry about that! I’m using new video software. I didn’t realize so great to know.
Hi, where can I find the plans for this jig!! Can you send it for free?
Thanks in advance
hya - i just have asked the guy if he is offering the 3d-plans...
@@martinkaspar5095 so? It's possible to get the jig plans?
BLENDER