ANYCUBIC Water Washable ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin is more durable (flexible) for the thin bits and less nasty smell. Also, water isn't flammable if you are printing in the basement near the furnace.
Alpha, look at the resin setup short i posted, it will solve your fume issue. the TLDR is pick a place in your house or garage next to a window. Buy a grow tent and a 5 inch inline fan. buy a AC window exaust kit put the resin printer in the grow tent and have the fan run 24/7. We tested the setup with a air quality monitor that included VOCs and with being judicial in keeping the tent closed when you arent working on it you should be good to go. ALSO the most fumes that will be present are when you are post processing so be aware of that. Buy a wash and cure station. keep the lid on the IPA in the wash bucket when not immediately in use. As for printers Anycubic is fine, but just fine. their m5 pro is pretty cool. my print farm is only stocked with elegoo resin printers, but ive also been printing for years. dont listen to the other comments on the halot. there is NO reason to give creality any money.
UI on the Elegoo is weird, but its good. Halot one Pro has a much more intuitive UI. No printer will fit the bill for fumeless, the fumes come from the printer but the nasty fumes really come from the alcohol cleaning process. When outside besides temp you have to consider UV hitting your vat when you lift the top, or only open the lid at night ? Auto leveling isn't a feature, its a gouge for noobs, there is nothing easier than leveling a resin plate. Fail detect works occasionally. Don't worry as much, once you develop a work flow with resin printing you will see how easy it is, the most important thing with resin printing is nailing the exposure settings with the resin you are using by doing a number of test matix prints, Phrozen makes a good stl. Print fails with resin are often a case of under exposure.
My plan is to do my prints in the morning when the sun is on the other side of the house all the while be under a deck, using an enclosure. I have heard water washable is brittle and abs is strong. I am getting water washable abs so I figure they cancel each other out. The leveling is not a problem because they include bolts for manual leveling unlike the previous versions. The testing is something I need to investigate more. Where can I get the phrozen stl?
I use elegoo water washable resin, it's brittle. But I like only having to use IPA in cleaning machine and tools. It's a trade off. Oh and get a wash and cure station. You won't regret it.
It all smells, water washable kind of sucks tbh, std and abs like resins are cool though (Sunlu makes great stuff and for the right price, $18 CAD/L). Use alcohol though (don't use resin detergents), 3min agitated bath, then I dump my prints into tap hot water to soften the supports, pull them off, and shake off excess water then I let them dry for a couple mins before they go under my UV lamp for 2-7 min depending on the size of the model or thickness.
@@alphanerdgames9417 Well to save a lot of time washing you can let them drip off on the plate for an hour or so. And when you wash you are just looking to get rid of the shiny layer, 2-5 min works for most models. Cure times for std resins are usually around the 3s per layer level with the initial being 10x what you layer setting is, plus a few seconds usually. For larger models turn up the layer exposure a few 10ths of a second. But I do suggest watching some videos about calibration matrix prints and how to read them, resin is all about calibration.
Welcome to the fold.
The human eye has trouble seeing even 3k, Halot One pro my friend and Sunlu Std Resin, 37s initial layer, 2.4s layer time.
ANYCUBIC Water Washable ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin is more durable (flexible) for the thin bits and less nasty smell. Also, water isn't flammable if you are printing in the basement near the furnace.
Alpha, look at the resin setup short i posted, it will solve your fume issue. the TLDR is pick a place in your house or garage next to a window. Buy a grow tent and a 5 inch inline fan. buy a AC window exaust kit put the resin printer in the grow tent and have the fan run 24/7. We tested the setup with a air quality monitor that included VOCs and with being judicial in keeping the tent closed when you arent working on it you should be good to go. ALSO the most fumes that will be present are when you are post processing so be aware of that. Buy a wash and cure station. keep the lid on the IPA in the wash bucket when not immediately in use. As for printers Anycubic is fine, but just fine. their m5 pro is pretty cool. my print farm is only stocked with elegoo resin printers, but ive also been printing for years. dont listen to the other comments on the halot. there is NO reason to give creality any money.
I have come to similar conclusions. My problem is that my garage is my basement and there are only doors, no windows to the outside.
UI on the Elegoo is weird, but its good. Halot one Pro has a much more intuitive UI. No printer will fit the bill for fumeless, the fumes come from the printer but the nasty fumes really come from the alcohol cleaning process. When outside besides temp you have to consider UV hitting your vat when you lift the top, or only open the lid at night ? Auto leveling isn't a feature, its a gouge for noobs, there is nothing easier than leveling a resin plate. Fail detect works occasionally. Don't worry as much, once you develop a work flow with resin printing you will see how easy it is, the most important thing with resin printing is nailing the exposure settings with the resin you are using by doing a number of test matix prints, Phrozen makes a good stl. Print fails with resin are often a case of under exposure.
My plan is to do my prints in the morning when the sun is on the other side of the house all the while be under a deck, using an enclosure. I have heard water washable is brittle and abs is strong. I am getting water washable abs so I figure they cancel each other out. The leveling is not a problem because they include bolts for manual leveling unlike the previous versions. The testing is something I need to investigate more. Where can I get the phrozen stl?
I use elegoo water washable resin, it's brittle. But I like only having to use IPA in cleaning machine and tools. It's a trade off. Oh and get a wash and cure station. You won't regret it.
Wash and cure station is on the list but I might not get it in time. If I put them out in the sun how long is too long?
I reran my dryer vent so it didn't have to go so far. So I use the old vent, ran a new line and put in an inline fan. No fumes at all.
I would have to drill a hole through solid concrete. I don’t know how smart that would be.
It all smells, water washable kind of sucks tbh, std and abs like resins are cool though (Sunlu makes great stuff and for the right price, $18 CAD/L). Use alcohol though (don't use resin detergents), 3min agitated bath, then I dump my prints into tap hot water to soften the supports, pull them off, and shake off excess water then I let them dry for a couple mins before they go under my UV lamp for 2-7 min depending on the size of the model or thickness.
I wish there was a chart somewhere on the recommended wash and cure time.
@@alphanerdgames9417 Well to save a lot of time washing you can let them drip off on the plate for an hour or so. And when you wash you are just looking to get rid of the shiny layer, 2-5 min works for most models. Cure times for std resins are usually around the 3s per layer level with the initial being 10x what you layer setting is, plus a few seconds usually. For larger models turn up the layer exposure a few 10ths of a second. But I do suggest watching some videos about calibration matrix prints and how to read them, resin is all about calibration.
@@alphanerdgames9417 Oh yeah RGB printers are quicker, they have exposure times usually 2s and under per layer.
@@alphanerdgames9417 A little over exposed is better than under, ok, Im out of tips I think.
@@riggermortisfpv526 lol thanks!