Hi folks, thanks for your comments and replies on my very first video. I will be re-visiting this method shortly with a clearer way of using both preshading and black basing methods to create both artistic and realistic results. Stay tuned and thanks again, cheers Chris.
I flew on P-3 Orions for 10 years at the end of their life, and i swear that Black Based wing looks EXACTLY like the panels on those old girls. Great tute mate.
Great demonstration! In my opinion is all about personal choice. You can go after realism or after an artistic look. Nothing wrong with any of those choices really. Thank you for the awesome video. Luis.
In the end, it's always a matter of preference. Personally, I like the subtle variances the marbling on top of black-basing adds, but with a dark version of the base color, rather than pure black.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial, just getting back into modelling after a considerable lay-off, brushing up on old techniques and learning new ones, wish the technology was around when I was a kid for videos like this, but back then home video had not been invented. I was lucky though, spent 24 years working on the real thing, so I know how a worn and old surface finish really looks, and I agree,the black basing has far more realism than pre shading. Thanks again and please do keep up the tutorials so us old geezers can learn.
both look good, it takes as long as it takes... simple as that... for the youngsters that are preoccupied with how long it takes are missing the point, it is about the journey not the destination.. that is all.. great demonstration sir.
Having looked at loads of videos of aircraft on aircraft carriers, the pre-shaded panel lines are very visible as opposed to variation in the panels themselves. My opinion is, and its only an opinion is that pre-shading is more suited to modern day aircraft that are one color all over. The black basing method for me is more for older aircraft that have different panel materials, panels replaced more often etc etc. That being said this is still great video.
Chris, If this is an example of the kind of video you can turn out then I hope you do many more. it's the most insightful video I've seen on painting model planes so far. Great job.
I use to be a manager of a hobbyshops ( Allied Hobbies- Oxford Valley Mall, Langhorne,Pa.) over 30 years ago. Every payday I would buy a few models and in some cases alot of models. I never had the time to build them so now I have a closet filled (8 ft high x 5 ft deep filled) with unbuilt models. Well.... I'm getting the itch to begin building again after a 30+ year hiatus. I will say I am in shock at what plastic models cost today. Holy crap ! I have ALL the models I need to keep busy BUT.....I see the paints aren't cheap either . I think the purchase of a few good air brushes and compressor will be the cheapest purchase long term. I am truly looking forward to thee up coming cold winter months. My parrot on me one shoulder with a beer in that hand, and a airbrush in thee other, painting a model why watching a good movie. Now that's multitasking for sure.👍👌😎
Please, more videos! I agree, I've been using the black basing method myself for a couple of years, it's far more efficient and realistic. I'm sick of uniformly, over-weathered "properly" built competition-winning models.
@@postmortem9642 i don't think panel lines would show up on black base but you can try making panel lines on the marble coat, then finish up. the problem is final coat is too thin to adjust the look of panel lines
Good explanation and tutorial. I have been marbling all of my paint starting with the primer, then aluminium and then the base colour. I do this so when I use the hair spray technique, I have veriations in the aluminium that is showing. It also means you see aluminium under the thinner painted areas as opposed to black paint. Just something I do and I like the resulting effects.
I see some builders doing the marble coat, but leaving the panel lines alone. So it looks like a reverse pre shade. Thank you for showing that when you do the marble coat, you don't worry about staying within the panel lines.
Thanks for your comment Matthew - yes the whole point with that technique is to ignore panel lines, although applying filters thereafter to break up panels is a good idea to add variability without accentuating the panel lines themselves..Cheers Chris
Hello ! if i may say, i also think the black basing /marblling technique gives a more realistic convincing looks , and as far as i saw aircraft from close by ( i was ground crew in the air force) - i never saw any darkening along the sides of panel lines as we do in modelling !!! as you say,it doesn't really exist ! on the contrary - you sometimes see a bit of lighter coloration along the panel lines, maybe from the effect of the weathering on the stressed skin of the metal where it's riveted to the spars/beams etc. and that's also only if you stand in a distance from the aircraft. and that is also very very subtle, you must look very carefully for few seconds to observe it. in addition,aircraft are being painted from time to time, so that lightening of colors can only be observed on the ones that haven't been painted long time... but i'm sure if i'd told this or do it on a model, i'll be crucified ! : -))) the only darkening of color i noticed along panel lines was from dirt (oil/fuel/grease/mud/whatever)
@@piperthirtytwo :-))) Hi ..! you're right, of course ! you ask why? well, you know how the modeling guys are, they tend to be "Technocrats" about how-you-should-do-a model-right ... or else... and,of course,the paint companies are happy about the modeling business becoming more and more intricate, multiple paint layers, more and more paints and effects and products - you spent tons of money on a model,sometimes more the model itself cost ! modeling became a very expensive hobby in the last 2 decades ! and all that because you want a model to look as close to the real thing in real life as possible. and of course, no one said it's a "must" ... it wasn't written in the "Ten Commandments" that it should be so :-) go ahead , build a Psychedelic painted F-15,no one will crucify you ;-)
Great video, thanks! I tried very hard to prefer the black basing, ,but I still like the pre shading. I will try both when I start airbrushing for the first time soon! I didn't know about the wash thing, I'll also have to look into that. That really added to the realism
Excellent vid Chris. I honestly like both methods and would choose one based on the effect I'm looking for. A newer unit on the line or one that's seen less weathering would make me want to go with pre-shading. Older, more weathered and I'd go for the black basing. Coolest thing is that, if I were trying to recreate the look of the Spitfire in the picture, I'd use both methods. I'd pre-shade the wings and black base the elevators and fuselage center and rear. Before I do either, I'm going to have to work up my airbrushing skills and get a better fine line airbrush. This was really great and helped me see the actual differences in real time. Very much appreciated Chris. Thanks. Hopefully you've done some more vids since this one cause it was great.
Superb job, Chris! The way you did this looks beautiful. More often than not I see preshading entirely WAY over-powering but the methods you demonstrated here look nice and very subtle.
Thank you Chris, I found that a really helpful comparison. Although I actually prefered the preshaded version but it's each to his own as they say. Thanks again.
Awesome job and I agree... Black basing does look more realistic, but I still prefer the look of pre-shading for modeling; as you say, it really pops. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Wow! VERY informative. I am just getting back into building models...and this video really gives me a great idea as to what is possible - with a good deal of practice. Thanks for taking the time to film this - and explain things so well!
Thanks William, I hope to revisit this soon with some even better explained and clearer shots on how I do things please stay tuned! Check out my U-Boat video on how I do this combined with hairspray...Cheers, Chris
Thank you forthe insight. I am starting my first air brush aircraft, airfix 1/48 P-40 warhawk to give as a gift to my father in law. This video helps a lot. Cheers!
Thanks for this comparison. I'm normally a tank guy but I'm building my first plane so I am watching a lot of videos on pre-shading etc... This video was extremely helpful and probably the best described I've seen so far.
Still here mate...still listening and watching...Great tutorial...Big thanks...and I agree...the mottled effect, subtle and effective...and importantly more realistic...Big fan of heavy weathered aircraft...Be nice to see you do a weathered Aussie Beau....I'm spraying the Revell 1/32 Beau at the moment...Had to do a lot of work re-doing all the panel lines and rivets as its such an old kit...but it's looking good now...From the UK
Thanks Lewis - yes a weathered Beau would be great, actually I have a US Beaufighter in mind, but I also have a great reference photo of an Aussie Beau skimming across the water at very low level that I would love to do one day! Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Yeah...but the Aussies made the Beau their own and they loved it...hehe...I sprayed the 'sky' colour over the black base today on the underside of the Beau...Its looking good but I'm hoping that the rivets show back up when I put a wash over the model cos they have disappeared since I sprayed it and they took me a couple weeks to do...I used the galaxy riveter and then lightly sanded them afterwards...Anyways,,,Thanks for the reply...Loving the vids
Very interesting video Chris, I like the way you put it across, it's a nice change to hear an aussie point of view, found your last couple of vid's on the Flory Forum, of the raptor excellent viewing, I for one look forward to more, Cheers Clint.
Most informative! I''ll use the black shading technique on the Sopwith Camel and Mig 29 I'm currently building. I'm inspired by the excellent marbling effect. Thanks!
That's great - we all have our own ideas and intent of what we want to achieve with our painting style. I've just finished a fairly shaded Mig-31 for instance. Cheers, Chris
The one thing I used to do was to silver based coat my metal skinned planes in silver paint (like the spitfires with folding landing gear) then I would back the paint away from the leading edge for a weathering effect (paint would be stripped from the leading edge in use).
Most black basing I've seen uses gloss black base with white mottling. Seems to show up a little better on the finish coat. Your method is very nice, just a little more subtle.
The key is airbrushing with fine lines and not a wide flood of paint. Demarcation lines are often times too wide which ruins the model. Most demarcation is one step from a hard line. I've been finishing models with fine spray pattern for 30+ years.
Great video mate! Easy to understand and clearly displayed. I had considered the whole black basing thing too much pissing about for an effect I can do post with enamels, but your way of doing it looks within my skill level and very doable. Make more videos!
Nice tutorial. for me, I model both Mecha & real world - I primarily use preshade for the Mecha as I'm aiming for a cleaner look - I haven't tried the black undercoat/marble yet, but I think I'll give it a shot on my next afv.
While I get the aesthetic appeal of the pre-shading, I personally think the look is mostly suited for carrier aircraft or eastern block-types that have lived a rough life in all kinds of weather. It looks neat though.
I think that the point is that real aircraft don´t have that effect on the panel lines, It´s not a matter of if you like how it looks. If you want to make it look realistic, my humble opinion is that preshading is not the right approach. However, you see small variations on the surface of a plane on most cases, not a plain paint.Black basing is a good way to approach that. This said, you can build and paint the way you want if it satisfies you! Good video!
Couldn't you in theory apply both techniques at once? Rather pre-shade and then use the marbling technique to fill in everything? this should then give you both contrast and variation. Best of both worlds perhaps...? I'll have to try to know for sure.
I have been searching for a video like this for black basing or preshading under a natural metal finish. Illustrating wear and irregularity in the metal . Any leads?
Your first video? Nice job! Nice technique on the model too. The color that you chose, I think you called it “marble” I’ve never seen the belly of a real P51, but it thought they were supposed to be aluminum color. I’m not picking on you, just curious as to why that color was used.
Hi David - yep first video many moons ago....I only chose that colour because I knew it would stand out on the video to display the technique. In fact, black basing works best for lighter grey/blue tones, e.g all over USN or other naval aviation stuff, or the light tones under most military aircraft. Cheers, Chris
I 100% agree with your "rant" at the end and the black basing looks more realistic. How would you approach a multi coloured Camo scheme with black basing? Could you prime in white, mottled in black and then apply thin coats of the separate colours to achieve this look?
Excellent. Really interesting stuff. The black basing looks the way to go for navel stuff or carrier stuff. The fighters and helicopters all seem to have that mottled look. Il give it a go. Stay safe!!
Thanks Wil - yes indeed since I did this video I've done black basing for naval aviation and modern "all grey", although I have found using a brown base helps warm up the colors a little too - see my Mig31 painting video for that one. Cheers, Chris
Watching again. I come to modelling with a graphics or drawing mindset, not that you can tell from my models. The black basing is very similar to the technique that Warner cartoons used for their classic batman cartoons back in the 90s. The drawing was heavily stylised and very high quality but for a lot of the batman scenes and city stuff they drew in black sheets preferring to light only the stuff they wanted to see like an actual film rather than darken what they didn't want to see. Really really effective and looked excellent.
@@wildolan That makes a lot of sense, it has to be remembered that almost all the techniques we use is an approximation of the real thing, trying to stylistically convey a sense of depth and volume. Cheers Chris
thanks for sharing... just getting into modelling. i'm curious, did you rescribe the panel lines before preshading and blackbasing both wings? would you recommend rescribing first even if the scale is 1:72?
Thanks for watching Allan and welcome to the hobby ! No I didn't rescribe the panel lines on this kit because they are nice and crisp. You may need to do this on older kits or new tool Airfix - but I wouldnt recommend on 1/72 unless you really want to enhance the preshaded look. Hope that helps, cheers Chris
Hi Darko, I don't use clay washes anymore, but the Flory ones are adequate. I prefer enamel or thinned oils now for panel line washes, usually starting with Tamiya's range. Cheers, Chris
Hi chris! Thanks for the great video. Where can I buy those small paint cups you use to mix the paint? I'm an Aussie too, but living in LA. Cheers mate!
I still may sell most of my models .Most of them are car models and I just not into cars at this point. I like military for the historical factor. The only thing I regret about collecting these military aircraft models is I should have collected 1/48 scale instead of 1/ 72nd . I can't believe how many aftermarket upgrade parts there are 4 1/48 scale like cockpit upgrades. They have them for 1/72nd scale as you know, but not as much as 1/48th. I just bought a trumpeter kit in 1/35th scale . A Russian tank and this kit scares me. Lol I have never seen or built a model with this many parts. $16. I couldn't pass up the deal.
Just came across your channel and subscribed! Really good video, thanks for sharing this! Looking forward to watching more of your videos over the next few days!...Bill
Cool video, the black basing definitely looks more effective. It works well with a single base colour but how would you recommend doing this on the upper surfaces of a WW2 British fighters 2 colour camo scheme where the colour will have some over lapping? I'm close to painting my 1/32 Tamiya MK XI Spitfire and would like to try this technique as i've only done the pre-shading method so far.
Hi, great tutorial. I am about to build a Testors 1/48 SR-71 Blackbird kit and am new to these methods. Do you think it is worth using either of these techniques to enhance the panel lines on the Blackbird? It seems difficult to judge in my mind because all the photos of the real Blackbird seem to show random shades of black/grey, without particularly clear panel lines. So I was thinking that only a 'post shade' to accentuate different panels would be advisable. What would you think? Thanks.
Hi mate, I’m new to model making and currently trying my first black basing with marbling, you video is great step by step guideline and I watched it 4 times so far, just a question when I try to thinner to make paint ready for final layer it gets very watery and splashy! I use x-20 tamiya thinner and model master acrylic paint! Do i miss anything?
Having been in the military and operated helicopters and armored vehicles, preshading always seems a bit unrealistic to me. Washes in the joints strike me as more realistic. So my vote is to put the paint on in layers and chipping in the order the paint was put on in the factory or in the field.
Preshading is definitely unrealistic, but so is a monotone finish (e.g look at the sidebox completions on Hasegawa models), so layering different tones and values makes more sense, but for some is a hard way to apply paint. Black basing like I showed in this video is an easier method to get that tonal variance, but its not the be all and end all! Thanks for your comment, Cheers Chris
Hi, very nice to see. Some questions if I may? What pressure do you use when doing mottling technique, and what needle and nozzle? Thanks, would be useful to make my 1/48 EA-6b Prowler.
Recently experimented with black and dark brown Artist oils thinned significantly with odorless paint thinner. Doesn't seem to react with plastics, have very very fine pigment and very low surface tension, so it really sinks into the low spots and stays there. Not a new technique, just new to me and my now preferred method. No more India ink and denatured alcohol, thinned black acrylic or fabric dye for me... Great tutorial BTW! I actually preferred the pre-shading!
Stynylrez is now my go-to primer. On my first test, I used gray on my paint mule and once the Stynylrez dried, I tried scratching it with my fingernail and there were no issues. I next used a screwdriveer and lightly scratched it. It did scratch through, but didn't peel. So, my guess is maybe your model wasn't adequately washed and there was still some skin oils or mold release agent on it.
kr dez the name of the airbrushes where Harder and Steenbeck. The best one .and the most expensive is the Infinity. It is a top of the line airbrush. I hope this helps.
Hi folks, thanks for your comments and replies on my very first video. I will be re-visiting this method shortly with a clearer way of using both preshading and black basing methods to create both artistic and realistic results. Stay tuned and thanks again, cheers Chris.
I flew on P-3 Orions for 10 years at the end of their life, and i swear that Black Based wing looks EXACTLY like the panels on those old girls. Great tute mate.
Thanks Ben, good to hear it from the source. Cheers, Chris
Great demonstration! In my opinion is all about personal choice. You can go after realism or after an artistic look. Nothing wrong with any of those choices really. Thank you for the awesome video. Luis.
In the end, it's always a matter of preference. Personally, I like the subtle variances the marbling on top of black-basing adds, but with a dark version of the base color, rather than pure black.
Nice job of demonstrating exactly what I needed to get going. Short, concise, no drivel, and good contrast in the before and afters.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial, just getting back into modelling after a considerable lay-off, brushing up on old techniques and learning new ones, wish the technology was around when I was a kid for videos like this, but back then home video had not been invented. I was lucky though, spent 24 years working on the real thing, so I know how a worn and old surface finish really looks, and I agree,the black basing has far more realism than pre shading. Thanks again and please do keep up the tutorials so us old geezers can learn.
both look good, it takes as long as it takes... simple as that... for the youngsters that are preoccupied with how long it takes are missing the point, it is about the journey not the destination.. that is all.. great demonstration sir.
Having looked at loads of videos of aircraft on aircraft carriers, the pre-shaded panel lines are very visible as opposed to variation in the panels themselves. My opinion is, and its only an opinion is that pre-shading is more suited to modern day aircraft that are one color all over. The black basing method for me is more for older aircraft that have different panel materials, panels replaced more often etc etc. That being said this is still great video.
You’ve obviously never seen real aircraft’s if you thing that.
@@zacharyradford5552 I have seen real 'aircraft's' (that apostrophe is wrong for a couple of reasons) and yes that is what I "thing".
Are you Mr Stevens?
Chris, If this is an example of the kind of video you can turn out then I hope you do many more. it's the most insightful video I've seen on painting model planes so far. Great job.
Always happy to learn a new technique.
Great looking Blackbird, well done!👍🤠
Thank you! Cheers!
I use to be a manager of a hobbyshops ( Allied Hobbies- Oxford Valley
Mall, Langhorne,Pa.) over 30 years ago. Every payday I would buy a few models and in some cases alot of models.
I never had the time to build them so now I have a closet filled (8 ft high x
5 ft deep filled) with unbuilt models. Well....
I'm getting the itch to begin building again after a 30+ year hiatus. I will say I am in shock at what plastic models cost today.
Holy crap ! I have ALL the models I need to keep busy BUT.....I see the paints aren't cheap either . I think the purchase of a few good air brushes and compressor will be the cheapest purchase long term. I am truly looking forward to thee up coming cold winter months. My parrot on me one shoulder with a beer in that hand, and a airbrush in thee other, painting a model why watching a good movie.
Now that's multitasking for sure.👍👌😎
I had a huge collection of unbuilt models too I gave them away. I wish I'd kept them.
Please, more videos! I agree, I've been using the black basing method myself for a couple of years, it's far more efficient and realistic. I'm sick of uniformly, over-weathered "properly" built competition-winning models.
is it possible to combine these 2 technics? basing the model black, panel lines dark the rest colored up?!
@@postmortem9642 i don't think panel lines would show up on black base but you can try making panel lines on the marble coat, then finish up. the problem is final coat is too thin to adjust the look of panel lines
Good explanation and tutorial. I have been marbling all of my paint starting with the primer, then aluminium and then the base colour. I do this so when I use the hair spray technique, I have veriations in the aluminium that is showing. It also means you see aluminium under the thinner painted areas as opposed to black paint. Just something I do and I like the resulting effects.
SOLD! Didn’t think I would be be but the black is a winner on all levels and even if it only won on final look, it would be ‘it’ for me.
Bob
England
I see some builders doing the marble coat, but leaving the panel lines alone. So it looks like a reverse pre shade. Thank you for showing that when you do the marble coat, you don't worry about staying within the panel lines.
Thanks for your comment Matthew - yes the whole point with that technique is to ignore panel lines, although applying filters thereafter to break up panels is a good idea to add variability without accentuating the panel lines themselves..Cheers Chris
Hello ! if i may say, i also think the black basing /marblling technique gives a more realistic convincing looks , and as far as i saw aircraft from close by ( i was ground crew in the air force) - i never saw any darkening along the sides of panel lines as we do in modelling !!! as you say,it doesn't really exist ! on the contrary - you sometimes see a bit of lighter coloration along the panel lines, maybe from the effect of the weathering on the stressed skin of the metal where it's riveted to the spars/beams etc. and that's also only if you stand in a distance from the aircraft. and that is also very very subtle, you must look very carefully for few seconds to observe it. in addition,aircraft are being painted from time to time, so that lightening of colors can only be observed on the ones that haven't been painted long time... but i'm sure if i'd told this or do it on a model, i'll be crucified ! : -))) the only darkening of color i noticed along panel lines was from dirt (oil/fuel/grease/mud/whatever)
Why does the model have to look exactly as the real life aircraft? Why would you be "crucified" for "doing it on a model?"
@@piperthirtytwo :-))) Hi ..! you're right, of course ! you ask why? well, you know how the modeling guys are, they tend to be "Technocrats" about how-you-should-do-a model-right ... or else...
and,of course,the paint companies are happy about the modeling business becoming more and more intricate, multiple paint layers, more and more paints and effects and products - you spent tons of money on a model,sometimes more the model itself cost ! modeling became a very expensive hobby in the last 2 decades ! and all that because you want a model to look as close to the real thing in real life as possible. and of course, no one said it's a "must" ... it wasn't written in the "Ten Commandments" that it should be so :-)
go ahead , build a Psychedelic painted F-15,no one will crucify you ;-)
Thank you for this video. I'm wanting to get back into the hobby after a 20 year hiatus.. this helps so much.
Your welcome - I have some more "how to" videos on painting coming soon, cheers Chris
this was really good, i have used both but it was nice to see you do both on one plane.
Thanks for watching Justin - I'm hoping to do both techniques on an upcoming build, because sometimes you need to preshade! Cheers, Chris
Great video, thanks! I tried very hard to prefer the black basing, ,but I still like the pre shading. I will try both when I start airbrushing for the first time soon! I didn't know about the wash thing, I'll also have to look into that. That really added to the realism
Excellent vid Chris. I honestly like both methods and would choose one based on the effect I'm looking for. A newer unit on the line or one that's seen less weathering would make me want to go with pre-shading. Older, more weathered and I'd go for the black basing. Coolest thing is that, if I were trying to recreate the look of the Spitfire in the picture, I'd use both methods. I'd pre-shade the wings and black base the elevators and fuselage center and rear. Before I do either, I'm going to have to work up my airbrushing skills and get a better fine line airbrush. This was really great and helped me see the actual differences in real time. Very much appreciated Chris. Thanks. Hopefully you've done some more vids since this one cause it was great.
Superb job, Chris! The way you did this looks beautiful. More often than not I see preshading entirely WAY over-powering but the methods you demonstrated here look nice and very subtle.
Thank you Chris, I found that a really helpful comparison. Although I actually prefered the preshaded version but it's each to his own as they say. Thanks again.
Awesome job and I agree... Black basing does look more realistic, but I still prefer the look of pre-shading for modeling; as you say, it really pops. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Wow! VERY informative. I am just getting back into building models...and this video really gives me a great idea as to what is possible - with a good deal of practice. Thanks for taking the time to film this - and explain things so well!
Thanks William, I hope to revisit this soon with some even better explained and clearer shots on how I do things please stay tuned! Check out my U-Boat video on how I do this combined with hairspray...Cheers, Chris
Thank you forthe insight. I am starting my first air brush aircraft, airfix 1/48 P-40 warhawk to give as a gift to my father in law.
This video helps a lot. Cheers!
I like the black basing more it gives a more realistic look great job I hope we see more videos.
Thanks for this comparison. I'm normally a tank guy but I'm building my first plane so I am watching a lot of videos on pre-shading etc... This video was extremely helpful and probably the best described I've seen so far.
Great video! Thank you. Very well presented and explained. I'd like to see your camouflage ideas.
Still here mate...still listening and watching...Great tutorial...Big thanks...and I agree...the mottled effect, subtle and effective...and importantly more realistic...Big fan of heavy weathered aircraft...Be nice to see you do a weathered Aussie Beau....I'm spraying the Revell 1/32 Beau at the moment...Had to do a lot of work re-doing all the panel lines and rivets as its such an old kit...but it's looking good now...From the UK
Thanks Lewis - yes a weathered Beau would be great, actually I have a US Beaufighter in mind, but I also have a great reference photo of an Aussie Beau skimming across the water at very low level that I would love to do one day! Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Yeah...but the Aussies made the Beau their own and they loved it...hehe...I sprayed the 'sky' colour over the black base today on the underside of the Beau...Its looking good but I'm hoping that the rivets show back up when I put a wash over the model cos they have disappeared since I sprayed it and they took me a couple weeks to do...I used the galaxy riveter and then lightly sanded them afterwards...Anyways,,,Thanks for the reply...Loving the vids
Very interesting video Chris, I like the way you put it across, it's a nice change to hear an aussie point of view, found your last couple of vid's on the Flory Forum, of the raptor excellent viewing, I for one look forward to more, Cheers Clint.
Best teaching so far..less talk more on the technic...keep it up sir
Most informative! I''ll use the black shading technique on the Sopwith Camel and Mig 29 I'm currently building. I'm inspired by the excellent marbling effect. Thanks!
Great video! Straight up and no politics.
Excellent video! Extremely helpful, thank you very much and may God richly bless you!
You're very welcome!
I like the pre-shading method better. It looks more real to me.
That's great - we all have our own ideas and intent of what we want to achieve with our painting style. I've just finished a fairly shaded Mig-31 for instance. Cheers, Chris
Thanks , new to modelling and help me paint mixes and ratios. I like the black basing and trying it on my 1/72 aussie kittyhawk.
Glad to help John, dont hesitate to ask questions! Cheers Chris
Great video, that shows the difference well. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Just watched this very helpful I’m a newbie to airbrushing and panel lines and washing nice one
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you for sharing! : )
You're welcome! Cheers Chris
The one thing I used to do was to silver based coat my metal skinned planes in silver paint (like the spitfires with folding landing gear) then I would back the paint away from the leading edge for a weathering effect (paint would be stripped from the leading edge in use).
Hi Chris
I have to agree......the black base and mottling effects, look far better than pre shade. top job
Cheers
Keith
Most black basing I've seen uses gloss black base with white mottling. Seems to show up a little better on the finish coat. Your method is very nice, just a little more subtle.
Nice demonstration. I agree with your conclusions. Well done.
The key is airbrushing with fine lines and not a wide flood of paint. Demarcation lines are often times too wide which ruins the model. Most demarcation is one step from a hard line. I've been finishing models with fine spray pattern for 30+ years.
Very true Russell, thanks for your comment..
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great video mate! Easy to understand and clearly displayed. I had considered the whole black basing thing too much pissing about for an effect I can do post with enamels, but your way of doing it looks within my skill level and very doable. Make more videos!
Looking over it the blackout shading definitely looks better.
Great tutorial! Pre shade side looks better, more solid.
Nice tutorial. for me, I model both Mecha & real world - I primarily use preshade for the Mecha as I'm aiming for a cleaner look - I haven't tried the black undercoat/marble yet, but I think I'll give it a shot on my next afv.
While I get the aesthetic appeal of the pre-shading, I personally think the look is mostly suited for carrier aircraft or eastern block-types that have lived a rough life in all kinds of weather. It looks neat though.
Greta video, very informative, ill try it on my next plane rather that pre shading
You make it look easy... I tried recently.. totally screwed the pooch...so oh well will try on another model...
amazing
Great. What they said and please, more videos. It helps that I can understand the accent as well.
I think that the point is that real aircraft don´t have that effect on the panel lines, It´s not a matter of if you like how it looks. If you want to make it look realistic, my humble opinion is that preshading is not the right approach. However, you see small variations on the surface of a plane on most cases, not a plain paint.Black basing is a good way to approach that. This said, you can build and paint the way you want if it satisfies you!
Good video!
Couldn't you in theory apply both techniques at once? Rather pre-shade and then use the marbling technique to fill in everything? this should then give you both contrast and variation. Best of both worlds perhaps...? I'll have to try to know for sure.
I have been searching for a video like this for black basing or preshading under a natural metal finish. Illustrating wear and irregularity in the metal . Any leads?
HI Richard, yep I did a video like that about how to use Alclads: th-cam.com/video/85uAle2rSw0/w-d-xo.html
This was a well done tutorial thanks
Your first video? Nice job! Nice technique on the model too. The color that you chose, I think you called it “marble” I’ve never seen the belly of a real P51, but it thought they were supposed to be aluminum color. I’m not picking on you, just curious as to why that color was used.
Hi David - yep first video many moons ago....I only chose that colour because I knew it would stand out on the video to display the technique. In fact, black basing works best for lighter grey/blue tones, e.g all over USN or other naval aviation stuff, or the light tones under most military aircraft. Cheers, Chris
good info mate keep it up cheers. Tony
I 100% agree with your "rant" at the end and the black basing looks more realistic. How would you approach a multi coloured Camo scheme with black basing? Could you prime in white, mottled in black and then apply thin coats of the separate colours to achieve this look?
Great video, thanks!
Thanks, this video was very insightful...appreciate the input!
Excellent. Really interesting stuff. The black basing looks the way to go for navel stuff or carrier stuff. The fighters and helicopters all seem to have that mottled look. Il give it a go. Stay safe!!
Thanks Wil - yes indeed since I did this video I've done black basing for naval aviation and modern "all grey", although I have found using a brown base helps warm up the colors a little too - see my Mig31 painting video for that one. Cheers, Chris
Watching again. I come to modelling with a graphics or drawing mindset, not that you can tell from my models. The black basing is very similar to the technique that Warner cartoons used for their classic batman cartoons back in the 90s. The drawing was heavily stylised and very high quality but for a lot of the batman scenes and city stuff they drew in black sheets preferring to light only the stuff they wanted to see like an actual film rather than darken what they didn't want to see. Really really effective and looked excellent.
@@wildolan That makes a lot of sense, it has to be remembered that almost all the techniques we use is an approximation of the real thing, trying to stylistically convey a sense of depth and volume. Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels yes. And not be too realistic. Let the eyes and mind fill in the details at times
thanks for sharing... just getting into modelling. i'm curious, did you rescribe the panel lines before preshading and blackbasing both wings? would you recommend rescribing first even if the scale is 1:72?
Thanks for watching Allan and welcome to the hobby ! No I didn't rescribe the panel lines on this kit because they are nice and crisp. You may need to do this on older kits or new tool Airfix - but I wouldnt recommend on 1/72 unless you really want to enhance the preshaded look. Hope that helps, cheers Chris
I agree with coops, best video I've seen on the subject, I'm looking forward to your next videos. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Chris, great work. I like both methods but loved the vid. Reason for my comment is to ask what clay wash do you recommend?
Hi Darko, I don't use clay washes anymore, but the Flory ones are adequate. I prefer enamel or thinned oils now for panel line washes, usually starting with Tamiya's range. Cheers, Chris
Hi chris! Thanks for the great video. Where can I buy those small paint cups you use to mix the paint? I'm an Aussie too, but living in LA. Cheers mate!
I still may sell most of my models .Most of them are car models and I just not into cars at this point.
I like military for the historical factor. The only thing I regret about collecting these military aircraft models is I should have collected 1/48 scale instead of 1/ 72nd .
I can't believe how many aftermarket upgrade parts there are 4 1/48 scale like cockpit upgrades. They have them for 1/72nd scale as you know, but not as much as 1/48th.
I just bought a trumpeter kit in 1/35th scale . A Russian tank and this kit scares me. Lol I have never seen or built a model with this many parts. $16. I couldn't pass up the deal.
great tutorial
Nice tutorial!!!
Just came across your channel and subscribed! Really good video, thanks for sharing this! Looking forward to watching more of your videos over the next few days!...Bill
My SR-71 is going to be black how's that work
Cool video, the black basing definitely looks more effective. It works well with a single base colour but how would you recommend doing this on the upper surfaces of a WW2 British fighters 2 colour camo scheme where the colour will have some over lapping? I'm close to painting my 1/32 Tamiya MK XI Spitfire and would like to try this technique as i've only done the pre-shading method so far.
Use masks so that you can't overlap colors.
Great video - thanks
great video! What is the name of the thinner and wash that you said you prefer over the Ultimate?
Thanks, that was really helpful.
Hi, great tutorial. I am about to build a Testors 1/48 SR-71 Blackbird kit and am new to these methods. Do you think it is worth using either of these techniques to enhance the panel lines on the Blackbird? It seems difficult to judge in my mind because all the photos of the real Blackbird seem to show random shades of black/grey, without particularly clear panel lines. So I was thinking that only a 'post shade' to accentuate different panels would be advisable.
What would you think? Thanks.
Hi mate, I’m new to model making and currently trying my first black basing with marbling, you video is great step by step guideline and I watched it 4 times so far, just a question when I try to thinner to make paint ready for final layer it gets very watery and splashy! I use x-20 tamiya thinner and model master acrylic paint! Do i miss anything?
great video mate! much needed info on he subject.. what is the base you are using to hold up the plane while painting??
Looks like a Tamiya spray-work to me. Maybe Chris will notice the bump and reply in person? Great vid, btw, really enjoyed it.
Really interesting. Thanks.
Having been in the military and operated helicopters and armored vehicles, preshading always seems a bit unrealistic to me. Washes in the joints strike me as more realistic. So my vote is to put the paint on in layers and chipping in the order the paint was put on in the factory or in the field.
Preshading is definitely unrealistic, but so is a monotone finish (e.g look at the sidebox completions on Hasegawa models), so layering different tones and values makes more sense, but for some is a hard way to apply paint. Black basing like I showed in this video is an easier method to get that tonal variance, but its not the be all and end all! Thanks for your comment, Cheers Chris
Как насчёт более сложного preshading?) Интересный эксперимент. Наглядно!
Check out my Mig 31 videos for more complex preshading
Hi, very nice to see. Some questions if I may? What pressure do you use when doing mottling technique, and what needle and nozzle? Thanks, would be useful to make my 1/48 EA-6b Prowler.
Brilliant tutorial !! What brand of primer did you use ?
@@beckersmodels thanks Chris. Looking forward to seeing that .
Is that acrylic wash that you use at the end? I'm assuming it is since you wiped it with water but just wanted to make sure....
Recently experimented with black and dark brown Artist oils thinned significantly with odorless paint thinner. Doesn't seem to react with plastics, have very very fine pigment and very low surface tension, so it really sinks into the low spots and stays there. Not a new technique, just new to me and my now preferred method. No more India ink and denatured alcohol, thinned black acrylic or fabric dye for me...
Great tutorial BTW! I actually preferred the pre-shading!
Where do you get Stynylrez from in Australia?
Why not just use ink wash to define the lines?
i always wonder, can we do preshade with somewhat thin down Black/Brown Acrylic ink with brush ? it will be much quicker than use air brush i think,
Nice
I love black basing for 1 48 modern jets
What's called that tool u use for painting ?the compressor ?
I tried the Synylrez Black Primer, it looks amazing but it scrapes very easily. Have you had any issues like that with the Stynylrez?
Stynylrez is now my go-to primer. On my first test, I used gray on my paint mule and once the Stynylrez dried, I tried scratching it with my fingernail and there were no issues. I next used a screwdriveer and lightly scratched it. It did scratch through, but didn't peel. So, my guess is maybe your model wasn't adequately washed and there was still some skin oils or mold release agent on it.
Never in a million years! The pre shading looks far better.
What kit is the mustang?
SR-71 black on black on black
Great works Mate! Doing the black basing for sure when painting my Eduard 1:48 Harrier soon, thanks for sharing!
Bonjour de la France ville dunkerque superbe excellent travail ✌🇫🇷🇫🇷
Interesting.....thanks. .....Fred
what a airbrush wash name?
kr dez the name of the airbrushes where Harder and Steenbeck. The best one .and the most expensive is the Infinity. It is a top of the line airbrush. I hope this helps.