Hi folks, thanks for your comments and replies on my very first video. I will be re-visiting this method shortly with a clearer way of using both preshading and black basing methods to create both artistic and realistic results. Stay tuned and thanks again, cheers Chris.
I flew on P-3 Orions for 10 years at the end of their life, and i swear that Black Based wing looks EXACTLY like the panels on those old girls. Great tute mate.
Great demonstration! In my opinion is all about personal choice. You can go after realism or after an artistic look. Nothing wrong with any of those choices really. Thank you for the awesome video. Luis.
In the end, it's always a matter of preference. Personally, I like the subtle variances the marbling on top of black-basing adds, but with a dark version of the base color, rather than pure black.
both look good, it takes as long as it takes... simple as that... for the youngsters that are preoccupied with how long it takes are missing the point, it is about the journey not the destination.. that is all.. great demonstration sir.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial, just getting back into modelling after a considerable lay-off, brushing up on old techniques and learning new ones, wish the technology was around when I was a kid for videos like this, but back then home video had not been invented. I was lucky though, spent 24 years working on the real thing, so I know how a worn and old surface finish really looks, and I agree,the black basing has far more realism than pre shading. Thanks again and please do keep up the tutorials so us old geezers can learn.
Good explanation and tutorial. I have been marbling all of my paint starting with the primer, then aluminium and then the base colour. I do this so when I use the hair spray technique, I have veriations in the aluminium that is showing. It also means you see aluminium under the thinner painted areas as opposed to black paint. Just something I do and I like the resulting effects.
I see some builders doing the marble coat, but leaving the panel lines alone. So it looks like a reverse pre shade. Thank you for showing that when you do the marble coat, you don't worry about staying within the panel lines.
Thanks for your comment Matthew - yes the whole point with that technique is to ignore panel lines, although applying filters thereafter to break up panels is a good idea to add variability without accentuating the panel lines themselves..Cheers Chris
That's great - we all have our own ideas and intent of what we want to achieve with our painting style. I've just finished a fairly shaded Mig-31 for instance. Cheers, Chris
Really outstanding extremely helpful and a great boost to flagging modellers. I must confess I am a very average brit modeler who has a stash of around 150 kits usually valued from £3 to £50 3 trays, which hold up to 50 tin lets and bottles of enamel paints of Humbrol or Revel 2 trays of Tamiya acrylics and various other much specialised paints . My spray gun is a trigger type bought on eBay for abought £28 which will probably only last as long as my gun cleaners do not destroy some built in hidden seal. As I said this is very much the average modellers in the UK. Many of my friends are in the same boat so many thanks for this video
Chris, If this is an example of the kind of video you can turn out then I hope you do many more. it's the most insightful video I've seen on painting model planes so far. Great job.
Having looked at loads of videos of aircraft on aircraft carriers, the pre-shaded panel lines are very visible as opposed to variation in the panels themselves. My opinion is, and its only an opinion is that pre-shading is more suited to modern day aircraft that are one color all over. The black basing method for me is more for older aircraft that have different panel materials, panels replaced more often etc etc. That being said this is still great video.
Excellent discussion, and the side-by-side comparison was a great idea! I think both techniques are awesome, and one would probably decide on which one suits the particular aircraft you're building. This was a very good video! - Trevor
My first attempt at weathering was an 1/48 Testors SR71, which I pre-shaded. It came out OK, and I was mostly just pleased that i didn't screw it up. My 2nd attempt was a 1/48 A10 Warthog, and I again pre-shaded, but went back and added marbling in both gray and white before the top coat of gray. It came out extremely well and I was pretty happy with it. My next airplane project is a 1/48 Phantom "SCAT XXVII" flown by Robin Olds, and I'm undecided which way I want to go, but my point is that either method works, and you can do a mix of both techniques. Experiment, have fun, it's modelling.
I use to be a manager of a hobbyshops ( Allied Hobbies- Oxford Valley Mall, Langhorne,Pa.) over 30 years ago. Every payday I would buy a few models and in some cases alot of models. I never had the time to build them so now I have a closet filled (8 ft high x 5 ft deep filled) with unbuilt models. Well.... I'm getting the itch to begin building again after a 30+ year hiatus. I will say I am in shock at what plastic models cost today. Holy crap ! I have ALL the models I need to keep busy BUT.....I see the paints aren't cheap either . I think the purchase of a few good air brushes and compressor will be the cheapest purchase long term. I am truly looking forward to thee up coming cold winter months. My parrot on me one shoulder with a beer in that hand, and a airbrush in thee other, painting a model why watching a good movie. Now that's multitasking for sure.👍👌😎
Great video, thanks! I tried very hard to prefer the black basing, ,but I still like the pre shading. I will try both when I start airbrushing for the first time soon! I didn't know about the wash thing, I'll also have to look into that. That really added to the realism
I'm glad you took the time to show this as I am planning my next job I actually prefer the preshading or black and white method. as it gives more of a base to add it exactly where you want it but both look great and if time is a factor definitely the marbling would be my go to may actually use a bit of both in different spot on the tank thank you so much
Thank you. Very nice tutorial. Just starting these tutorials, but yours is heads and tails better than any I've seen so far. You go through step by step and explain everything you do. Some others skip steps and go to the finished product, almost like they are playing 'hide-the-ball'. Seems like you enjoy teaching.Also, it is nice to hear an articulate speaker.
Thank you Chris, I found that a really helpful comparison. Although I actually prefered the preshaded version but it's each to his own as they say. Thanks again.
Really useful video. I prefer the artistic, less creative look. But black basing and marbling is also a great way to get there. And you’ve shown a TON of useful technique in this video for a beginner like me.
I've got a stash of models and tamiya paints from a few years back. Even then I didnt do shading or weathering... but soon I plan on restarting and making my 20 or so models (1/72 planes, a few 1/350 ships). After you get your three coats (using black basing, this intrigues me), do you then apply decals, do your surface protection ("Future" was used here I think), and THEN the wash? Or is there a different order? Basically it's been so long (and even then it was only a few models before life affected my ability to continue) I'm gonna essentially be a "first timer" all over again.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment - yes after youve primed in black, applied your colors (a marbled layer first, then a thinned top coat to blend in), put your decals on using a good setter (e.g Mr Mark Softener or Micro Set), once dry, apply a gloss coat (Tamiya X-22 thinned 50/50 is my go to as a utility protective coat), then washes, then a final matte coat (Dullcote or similar). I'll be doing a series soon on this sort of process, stay tuned. Cheers, Chris
Well done! For a first video you nailed it. You got your point across in a clear and concise way with clearly demonstrated techniques and ended with a conclusive result.
Thank you forthe insight. I am starting my first air brush aircraft, airfix 1/48 P-40 warhawk to give as a gift to my father in law. This video helps a lot. Cheers!
Still here mate...still listening and watching...Great tutorial...Big thanks...and I agree...the mottled effect, subtle and effective...and importantly more realistic...Big fan of heavy weathered aircraft...Be nice to see you do a weathered Aussie Beau....I'm spraying the Revell 1/32 Beau at the moment...Had to do a lot of work re-doing all the panel lines and rivets as its such an old kit...but it's looking good now...From the UK
Thanks Lewis - yes a weathered Beau would be great, actually I have a US Beaufighter in mind, but I also have a great reference photo of an Aussie Beau skimming across the water at very low level that I would love to do one day! Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Yeah...but the Aussies made the Beau their own and they loved it...hehe...I sprayed the 'sky' colour over the black base today on the underside of the Beau...Its looking good but I'm hoping that the rivets show back up when I put a wash over the model cos they have disappeared since I sprayed it and they took me a couple weeks to do...I used the galaxy riveter and then lightly sanded them afterwards...Anyways,,,Thanks for the reply...Loving the vids
Please, more videos! I agree, I've been using the black basing method myself for a couple of years, it's far more efficient and realistic. I'm sick of uniformly, over-weathered "properly" built competition-winning models.
@@postmortem9642 i don't think panel lines would show up on black base but you can try making panel lines on the marble coat, then finish up. the problem is final coat is too thin to adjust the look of panel lines
Hello ! if i may say, i also think the black basing /marblling technique gives a more realistic convincing looks , and as far as i saw aircraft from close by ( i was ground crew in the air force) - i never saw any darkening along the sides of panel lines as we do in modelling !!! as you say,it doesn't really exist ! on the contrary - you sometimes see a bit of lighter coloration along the panel lines, maybe from the effect of the weathering on the stressed skin of the metal where it's riveted to the spars/beams etc. and that's also only if you stand in a distance from the aircraft. and that is also very very subtle, you must look very carefully for few seconds to observe it. in addition,aircraft are being painted from time to time, so that lightening of colors can only be observed on the ones that haven't been painted long time... but i'm sure if i'd told this or do it on a model, i'll be crucified ! : -))) the only darkening of color i noticed along panel lines was from dirt (oil/fuel/grease/mud/whatever)
@@piperthirtytwo :-))) Hi ..! you're right, of course ! you ask why? well, you know how the modeling guys are, they tend to be "Technocrats" about how-you-should-do-a model-right ... or else... and,of course,the paint companies are happy about the modeling business becoming more and more intricate, multiple paint layers, more and more paints and effects and products - you spent tons of money on a model,sometimes more the model itself cost ! modeling became a very expensive hobby in the last 2 decades ! and all that because you want a model to look as close to the real thing in real life as possible. and of course, no one said it's a "must" ... it wasn't written in the "Ten Commandments" that it should be so :-) go ahead , build a Psychedelic painted F-15,no one will crucify you ;-)
Your first video! Wow, very well done. Well executed modelling techniques, well documented through video, well explained, and well scripted, neither too long nor too short..
Thanks Peter - that video was a long time ago, not sure if I've gotten any better at it! Will have some more coming soon, especially on technique. Cheers, Chris
one of the best tutorials for rookies or experienced modelers. Great production, simple explanation. (I like the accelerated imes) Discussion at end is excellent. jes
Awesome job and I agree... Black basing does look more realistic, but I still prefer the look of pre-shading for modeling; as you say, it really pops. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Most informative! I''ll use the black shading technique on the Sopwith Camel and Mig 29 I'm currently building. I'm inspired by the excellent marbling effect. Thanks!
Wow! VERY informative. I am just getting back into building models...and this video really gives me a great idea as to what is possible - with a good deal of practice. Thanks for taking the time to film this - and explain things so well!
Thanks William, I hope to revisit this soon with some even better explained and clearer shots on how I do things please stay tuned! Check out my U-Boat video on how I do this combined with hairspray...Cheers, Chris
Thanks for this comparison. I'm normally a tank guy but I'm building my first plane so I am watching a lot of videos on pre-shading etc... This video was extremely helpful and probably the best described I've seen so far.
Superb job, Chris! The way you did this looks beautiful. More often than not I see preshading entirely WAY over-powering but the methods you demonstrated here look nice and very subtle.
The one thing I used to do was to silver based coat my metal skinned planes in silver paint (like the spitfires with folding landing gear) then I would back the paint away from the leading edge for a weathering effect (paint would be stripped from the leading edge in use).
Excellent vid Chris. I honestly like both methods and would choose one based on the effect I'm looking for. A newer unit on the line or one that's seen less weathering would make me want to go with pre-shading. Older, more weathered and I'd go for the black basing. Coolest thing is that, if I were trying to recreate the look of the Spitfire in the picture, I'd use both methods. I'd pre-shade the wings and black base the elevators and fuselage center and rear. Before I do either, I'm going to have to work up my airbrushing skills and get a better fine line airbrush. This was really great and helped me see the actual differences in real time. Very much appreciated Chris. Thanks. Hopefully you've done some more vids since this one cause it was great.
I think the preshading is popular from all the ILM models they did for Star Wars. Looking at those you can see that heavy contrast. It penetrated the collective unconscious and now that's how we think stuff should look even though pictures show otherwise.
thk you so much . just getting back into this after many years. nice to see another technic . ill try marble the next time, I agree I think its better!!
Great side-by-side comparison!!! For me, time or amount of paint is not a concern, I prefer weathering that is realistic and more subtle. I don't think one is 'better' than another, it's all a matter of personal taste. Watching this video certainly reminds you to experiment though. I especially like that you touch on a contentious point - weathering that is realistic or weathering that will win contests; something to think about when finishing your model.
Most black basing I've seen uses gloss black base with white mottling. Seems to show up a little better on the finish coat. Your method is very nice, just a little more subtle.
Totally agree with you, takes way to long and too thick a paint to cover the pre-shading. One can always post shade if the panel line wash is not contrasting enough. Bravo
Great explanation of black basing, but.... Why does almost everyone who airbrushes a model always shoots paint in an angle to the surface instead of perpendicular?
I have been searching for a video like this for black basing or preshading under a natural metal finish. Illustrating wear and irregularity in the metal . Any leads?
The key is airbrushing with fine lines and not a wide flood of paint. Demarcation lines are often times too wide which ruins the model. Most demarcation is one step from a hard line. I've been finishing models with fine spray pattern for 30+ years.
Very interesting video Chris, I like the way you put it across, it's a nice change to hear an aussie point of view, found your last couple of vid's on the Flory Forum, of the raptor excellent viewing, I for one look forward to more, Cheers Clint.
Subscribed. I am not one for weathering as I believe planes tend to be kept up fairly well in the military. The tutorial is great to learn technique. Older planes may have looked rough. Im not in it to win competitions so like its been pointed out, there is weathering for contest and then for fun. My friends don't really care how realistic models look, just the community of modelers. Thanks for the tutorial.
That black basing method with the various greys would look good, if not perfect, for 1/48 scale F-14Ds since late in service life Tomcats were rather grubby and subtly mottled from all the quick paint touch ups the maintenance crews did. If ever I do a "Bombcat", I'll try the black basing.
While I get the aesthetic appeal of the pre-shading, I personally think the look is mostly suited for carrier aircraft or eastern block-types that have lived a rough life in all kinds of weather. It looks neat though.
Hi Darko, I don't use clay washes anymore, but the Flory ones are adequate. I prefer enamel or thinned oils now for panel line washes, usually starting with Tamiya's range. Cheers, Chris
Excellent comparison. Thanks for going to the trouble. I often wondered why some preshaded aircraft models were pretty good but something just wasnt right. This makes it evident.
Nice tutorial. for me, I model both Mecha & real world - I primarily use preshade for the Mecha as I'm aiming for a cleaner look - I haven't tried the black undercoat/marble yet, but I think I'll give it a shot on my next afv.
Awesome! Watched a lot of techniques and all results didnt satisfy me. I found yours, and it matched all my ideas i had in my mind already before trying out. In the end you also compared both methods i had in mind ... Thanks for that. Finally it turned out the way i wanted... well for Mechwarrior figures (bigger scale), but in the end they used panels and rivets as well to construct the mechs.. :D Thanks again!
I 100% agree with your "rant" at the end and the black basing looks more realistic. How would you approach a multi coloured Camo scheme with black basing? Could you prime in white, mottled in black and then apply thin coats of the separate colours to achieve this look?
Your first video? Nice job! Nice technique on the model too. The color that you chose, I think you called it “marble” I’ve never seen the belly of a real P51, but it thought they were supposed to be aluminum color. I’m not picking on you, just curious as to why that color was used.
Hi David - yep first video many moons ago....I only chose that colour because I knew it would stand out on the video to display the technique. In fact, black basing works best for lighter grey/blue tones, e.g all over USN or other naval aviation stuff, or the light tones under most military aircraft. Cheers, Chris
Excellent video. Thank you so much!!. By the way i'm looking for that base you use to paint the models without touching them, turning in circles with the model on it, what base is it? Thank you
Brilliant. Thanks. I think that, on a psychological level, people are merging two images, and coming up with pre-shading is the best. They are combining images from movies of in-action 'new tanks' with 70+ year-old surviving hulks that are heavily corroded. If you mix both those contrasting images of the same vehicles in the mind, you end up with heavy pre-shading in models. Not the more authentic look, as you point out.
Yep theres a difference psychologically with whats real and what people think looks real. Hard to convey in words, has to be done in pictures or indeed real life - a lot of the "heavily overweathered" preshaded stuff actually looks better in real life, 3 feet away on a table then the "real" stuff...again, hard to pin down!
Hi mate, I’m new to model making and currently trying my first black basing with marbling, you video is great step by step guideline and I watched it 4 times so far, just a question when I try to thinner to make paint ready for final layer it gets very watery and splashy! I use x-20 tamiya thinner and model master acrylic paint! Do i miss anything?
thanks for sharing... just getting into modelling. i'm curious, did you rescribe the panel lines before preshading and blackbasing both wings? would you recommend rescribing first even if the scale is 1:72?
Thanks for watching Allan and welcome to the hobby ! No I didn't rescribe the panel lines on this kit because they are nice and crisp. You may need to do this on older kits or new tool Airfix - but I wouldnt recommend on 1/72 unless you really want to enhance the preshaded look. Hope that helps, cheers Chris
When I paint I'm not concerned with time or the amount of paint I use, just the end result. When I do armor I think the preshading would be my best bet. On aircraft I thing either way would work, depending on the plane.
Couldn't you in theory apply both techniques at once? Rather pre-shade and then use the marbling technique to fill in everything? this should then give you both contrast and variation. Best of both worlds perhaps...? I'll have to try to know for sure.
Hi chris! Thanks for the great video. Where can I buy those small paint cups you use to mix the paint? I'm an Aussie too, but living in LA. Cheers mate!
nice video, i've been wondering for a while if what you call black basing would work, seems it does! also i wasn't sure how to approach this technique other than a sort of reverse pre shade, the marbling is something i wouldn't have worked out, however i wonder if reversing the colours would work on a black painted aircraft as i do have quite a few WW2 british bomber kits in my stash. thanks for sharing! phil.
Hi great tutorial video keep them coming, you are using the Badger black primer may I ask, does it really self level or is the slight orange peel illustrated in the video masked by the final dried Matt finish. Regards Dave
I. agree with your previous writer, I was also in the RAF as a photographer for 15 years with a keen interest in all things mechanical. The panel lines are in fact only shadows of the nearest material to them and take on their colour, eg a red panel next to a white panel would appear a paler red as the reflection from the white has more reflectivity. Also not sure all this talk of dirt on a/c is correct, my father was a crew chief (engines) on Lancs during WW2 and he assures me his a/c were always maintained between sorties and that included washing and cleaning, naturally hot exhausts take on their own colour and staining. Go to your local a/c museum and look carefully at any aircraft can you honestly see it covered in dark lines, I think not.
Hi folks, thanks for your comments and replies on my very first video. I will be re-visiting this method shortly with a clearer way of using both preshading and black basing methods to create both artistic and realistic results. Stay tuned and thanks again, cheers Chris.
I flew on P-3 Orions for 10 years at the end of their life, and i swear that Black Based wing looks EXACTLY like the panels on those old girls. Great tute mate.
Thanks Ben, good to hear it from the source. Cheers, Chris
Great demonstration! In my opinion is all about personal choice. You can go after realism or after an artistic look. Nothing wrong with any of those choices really. Thank you for the awesome video. Luis.
In the end, it's always a matter of preference. Personally, I like the subtle variances the marbling on top of black-basing adds, but with a dark version of the base color, rather than pure black.
both look good, it takes as long as it takes... simple as that... for the youngsters that are preoccupied with how long it takes are missing the point, it is about the journey not the destination.. that is all.. great demonstration sir.
Nice job of demonstrating exactly what I needed to get going. Short, concise, no drivel, and good contrast in the before and afters.
I preferred the Pre-shading,.But again the marbling side is nice also..Thanks for showing both techniques.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial, just getting back into modelling after a considerable lay-off, brushing up on old techniques and learning new ones, wish the technology was around when I was a kid for videos like this, but back then home video had not been invented. I was lucky though, spent 24 years working on the real thing, so I know how a worn and old surface finish really looks, and I agree,the black basing has far more realism than pre shading. Thanks again and please do keep up the tutorials so us old geezers can learn.
Good explanation and tutorial. I have been marbling all of my paint starting with the primer, then aluminium and then the base colour. I do this so when I use the hair spray technique, I have veriations in the aluminium that is showing. It also means you see aluminium under the thinner painted areas as opposed to black paint. Just something I do and I like the resulting effects.
SOLD! Didn’t think I would be be but the black is a winner on all levels and even if it only won on final look, it would be ‘it’ for me.
Bob
England
I see some builders doing the marble coat, but leaving the panel lines alone. So it looks like a reverse pre shade. Thank you for showing that when you do the marble coat, you don't worry about staying within the panel lines.
Thanks for your comment Matthew - yes the whole point with that technique is to ignore panel lines, although applying filters thereafter to break up panels is a good idea to add variability without accentuating the panel lines themselves..Cheers Chris
I like the pre-shading method better. It looks more real to me.
That's great - we all have our own ideas and intent of what we want to achieve with our painting style. I've just finished a fairly shaded Mig-31 for instance. Cheers, Chris
Really outstanding extremely helpful and a great boost to flagging modellers. I must confess I am a very average brit modeler who has a stash of around 150 kits usually valued from £3 to £50 3 trays, which hold up to 50 tin lets and bottles of enamel paints of Humbrol or Revel 2 trays of Tamiya acrylics and various other much specialised paints . My spray gun is a trigger type bought on eBay for abought £28 which will probably only last as long as my gun cleaners do not destroy some built in hidden seal. As I said this is very much the average modellers in the UK. Many of my friends are in the same boat so many thanks for this video
Chris, If this is an example of the kind of video you can turn out then I hope you do many more. it's the most insightful video I've seen on painting model planes so far. Great job.
Fantastic! Loved the clarity and ease to how demonstrate both techniques! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Sergio, glad you enjoyed it, I hope to do a followup video soon, cheers Chris
possibly the best explained tute on this subject ive watched. hopefully you have done more.
I second that, excellent tutorial thank you
Having looked at loads of videos of aircraft on aircraft carriers, the pre-shaded panel lines are very visible as opposed to variation in the panels themselves. My opinion is, and its only an opinion is that pre-shading is more suited to modern day aircraft that are one color all over. The black basing method for me is more for older aircraft that have different panel materials, panels replaced more often etc etc. That being said this is still great video.
You’ve obviously never seen real aircraft’s if you thing that.
@@zacharyradford5552 I have seen real 'aircraft's' (that apostrophe is wrong for a couple of reasons) and yes that is what I "thing".
Are you Mr Stevens?
Excellent discussion, and the side-by-side comparison was a great idea! I think both techniques are awesome, and one would probably decide on which one suits the particular aircraft you're building. This was a very good video! - Trevor
My first attempt at weathering was an 1/48 Testors SR71, which I pre-shaded. It came out OK, and I was mostly just pleased that i didn't screw it up. My 2nd attempt was a 1/48 A10 Warthog, and I again pre-shaded, but went back and added marbling in both gray and white before the top coat of gray. It came out extremely well and I was pretty happy with it. My next airplane project is a 1/48 Phantom "SCAT XXVII" flown by Robin Olds, and I'm undecided which way I want to go, but my point is that either method works, and you can do a mix of both techniques. Experiment, have fun, it's modelling.
Thank you for this video. I'm wanting to get back into the hobby after a 20 year hiatus.. this helps so much.
Your welcome - I have some more "how to" videos on painting coming soon, cheers Chris
I use to be a manager of a hobbyshops ( Allied Hobbies- Oxford Valley
Mall, Langhorne,Pa.) over 30 years ago. Every payday I would buy a few models and in some cases alot of models.
I never had the time to build them so now I have a closet filled (8 ft high x
5 ft deep filled) with unbuilt models. Well....
I'm getting the itch to begin building again after a 30+ year hiatus. I will say I am in shock at what plastic models cost today.
Holy crap ! I have ALL the models I need to keep busy BUT.....I see the paints aren't cheap either . I think the purchase of a few good air brushes and compressor will be the cheapest purchase long term. I am truly looking forward to thee up coming cold winter months. My parrot on me one shoulder with a beer in that hand, and a airbrush in thee other, painting a model why watching a good movie.
Now that's multitasking for sure.👍👌😎
I had a huge collection of unbuilt models too I gave them away. I wish I'd kept them.
Great video! Thank you. Very well presented and explained. I'd like to see your camouflage ideas.
Great video, thanks! I tried very hard to prefer the black basing, ,but I still like the pre shading. I will try both when I start airbrushing for the first time soon! I didn't know about the wash thing, I'll also have to look into that. That really added to the realism
I'm glad you took the time to show this as I am planning my next job
I actually prefer the preshading or black and white method. as it gives more of a base to add it exactly where you want it
but both look great and if time is a factor definitely the marbling would be my go to
may actually use a bit of both in different spot on the tank
thank you so much
I like the clean look better but awesome tutorial.
Thank you. Very nice tutorial. Just starting these tutorials, but yours is heads and tails better than any I've seen so far. You go through step by step and explain everything you do. Some others skip steps and go to the finished product, almost like they are playing 'hide-the-ball'. Seems like you enjoy teaching.Also, it is nice to hear an articulate speaker.
Thank you Chris, I found that a really helpful comparison. Although I actually prefered the preshaded version but it's each to his own as they say. Thanks again.
this was really good, i have used both but it was nice to see you do both on one plane.
Thanks for watching Justin - I'm hoping to do both techniques on an upcoming build, because sometimes you need to preshade! Cheers, Chris
You make it look easy... I tried recently.. totally screwed the pooch...so oh well will try on another model...
Really useful video. I prefer the artistic, less creative look. But black basing and marbling is also a great way to get there. And you’ve shown a TON of useful technique in this video for a beginner like me.
I've got a stash of models and tamiya paints from a few years back. Even then I didnt do shading or weathering... but soon I plan on restarting and making my 20 or so models (1/72 planes, a few 1/350 ships). After you get your three coats (using black basing, this intrigues me), do you then apply decals, do your surface protection ("Future" was used here I think), and THEN the wash? Or is there a different order?
Basically it's been so long (and even then it was only a few models before life affected my ability to continue) I'm gonna essentially be a "first timer" all over again.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment - yes after youve primed in black, applied your colors (a marbled layer first, then a thinned top coat to blend in), put your decals on using a good setter (e.g Mr Mark Softener or Micro Set), once dry, apply a gloss coat (Tamiya X-22 thinned 50/50 is my go to as a utility protective coat), then washes, then a final matte coat (Dullcote or similar). I'll be doing a series soon on this sort of process, stay tuned. Cheers, Chris
Well done! For a first video you nailed it. You got your point across in a clear and concise way with clearly demonstrated techniques and ended with a conclusive result.
Spinsquiggle I love how much this sounds like you are marking an essay. Please tell me that you are a teacher?
Detention 4 u... ;)
Thanks , new to modelling and help me paint mixes and ratios. I like the black basing and trying it on my 1/72 aussie kittyhawk.
Glad to help John, dont hesitate to ask questions! Cheers Chris
Thank you forthe insight. I am starting my first air brush aircraft, airfix 1/48 P-40 warhawk to give as a gift to my father in law.
This video helps a lot. Cheers!
Still here mate...still listening and watching...Great tutorial...Big thanks...and I agree...the mottled effect, subtle and effective...and importantly more realistic...Big fan of heavy weathered aircraft...Be nice to see you do a weathered Aussie Beau....I'm spraying the Revell 1/32 Beau at the moment...Had to do a lot of work re-doing all the panel lines and rivets as its such an old kit...but it's looking good now...From the UK
Thanks Lewis - yes a weathered Beau would be great, actually I have a US Beaufighter in mind, but I also have a great reference photo of an Aussie Beau skimming across the water at very low level that I would love to do one day! Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Yeah...but the Aussies made the Beau their own and they loved it...hehe...I sprayed the 'sky' colour over the black base today on the underside of the Beau...Its looking good but I'm hoping that the rivets show back up when I put a wash over the model cos they have disappeared since I sprayed it and they took me a couple weeks to do...I used the galaxy riveter and then lightly sanded them afterwards...Anyways,,,Thanks for the reply...Loving the vids
Please, more videos! I agree, I've been using the black basing method myself for a couple of years, it's far more efficient and realistic. I'm sick of uniformly, over-weathered "properly" built competition-winning models.
is it possible to combine these 2 technics? basing the model black, panel lines dark the rest colored up?!
@@postmortem9642 i don't think panel lines would show up on black base but you can try making panel lines on the marble coat, then finish up. the problem is final coat is too thin to adjust the look of panel lines
Hello ! if i may say, i also think the black basing /marblling technique gives a more realistic convincing looks , and as far as i saw aircraft from close by ( i was ground crew in the air force) - i never saw any darkening along the sides of panel lines as we do in modelling !!! as you say,it doesn't really exist ! on the contrary - you sometimes see a bit of lighter coloration along the panel lines, maybe from the effect of the weathering on the stressed skin of the metal where it's riveted to the spars/beams etc. and that's also only if you stand in a distance from the aircraft. and that is also very very subtle, you must look very carefully for few seconds to observe it. in addition,aircraft are being painted from time to time, so that lightening of colors can only be observed on the ones that haven't been painted long time... but i'm sure if i'd told this or do it on a model, i'll be crucified ! : -))) the only darkening of color i noticed along panel lines was from dirt (oil/fuel/grease/mud/whatever)
Why does the model have to look exactly as the real life aircraft? Why would you be "crucified" for "doing it on a model?"
@@piperthirtytwo :-))) Hi ..! you're right, of course ! you ask why? well, you know how the modeling guys are, they tend to be "Technocrats" about how-you-should-do-a model-right ... or else...
and,of course,the paint companies are happy about the modeling business becoming more and more intricate, multiple paint layers, more and more paints and effects and products - you spent tons of money on a model,sometimes more the model itself cost ! modeling became a very expensive hobby in the last 2 decades ! and all that because you want a model to look as close to the real thing in real life as possible. and of course, no one said it's a "must" ... it wasn't written in the "Ten Commandments" that it should be so :-)
go ahead , build a Psychedelic painted F-15,no one will crucify you ;-)
Your first video! Wow, very well done. Well executed modelling techniques, well documented through video, well explained, and well scripted, neither too long nor too short..
Thanks Peter - that video was a long time ago, not sure if I've gotten any better at it! Will have some more coming soon, especially on technique. Cheers, Chris
one of the best tutorials for rookies or experienced modelers. Great production, simple explanation. (I like the accelerated imes) Discussion at end is excellent. jes
very nice tutorial! good to see them side by side! I am working on an Arada sea plane and a Spitfire so will try on both! thanks!
Awesome job and I agree... Black basing does look more realistic, but I still prefer the look of pre-shading for modeling; as you say, it really pops. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Most informative! I''ll use the black shading technique on the Sopwith Camel and Mig 29 I'm currently building. I'm inspired by the excellent marbling effect. Thanks!
Wow! VERY informative. I am just getting back into building models...and this video really gives me a great idea as to what is possible - with a good deal of practice. Thanks for taking the time to film this - and explain things so well!
Thanks William, I hope to revisit this soon with some even better explained and clearer shots on how I do things please stay tuned! Check out my U-Boat video on how I do this combined with hairspray...Cheers, Chris
Thanks for this comparison. I'm normally a tank guy but I'm building my first plane so I am watching a lot of videos on pre-shading etc... This video was extremely helpful and probably the best described I've seen so far.
Always happy to learn a new technique.
Great looking Blackbird, well done!👍🤠
Thank you! Cheers!
Just watched this very helpful I’m a newbie to airbrushing and panel lines and washing nice one
Great video mate . Best comparison I've seen . Cheers. Just subscribed
Thanks Mark, I hope to do a follow up video some day on how to get more out of black basing and indeed shading! Cheers Chris
Excellent video! Extremely helpful, thank you very much and may God richly bless you!
You're very welcome!
Superb job, Chris! The way you did this looks beautiful. More often than not I see preshading entirely WAY over-powering but the methods you demonstrated here look nice and very subtle.
The one thing I used to do was to silver based coat my metal skinned planes in silver paint (like the spitfires with folding landing gear) then I would back the paint away from the leading edge for a weathering effect (paint would be stripped from the leading edge in use).
Excellent vid Chris. I honestly like both methods and would choose one based on the effect I'm looking for. A newer unit on the line or one that's seen less weathering would make me want to go with pre-shading. Older, more weathered and I'd go for the black basing. Coolest thing is that, if I were trying to recreate the look of the Spitfire in the picture, I'd use both methods. I'd pre-shade the wings and black base the elevators and fuselage center and rear. Before I do either, I'm going to have to work up my airbrushing skills and get a better fine line airbrush. This was really great and helped me see the actual differences in real time. Very much appreciated Chris. Thanks. Hopefully you've done some more vids since this one cause it was great.
I like the black basing more it gives a more realistic look great job I hope we see more videos.
I think the preshading is popular from all the ILM models they did for Star Wars. Looking at those you can see that heavy contrast. It penetrated the collective unconscious and now that's how we think stuff should look even though pictures show otherwise.
thk you so much . just getting back into this after many years. nice to see another technic . ill try marble the next time, I agree I think its better!!
Gran video, sabia del preshadind no conocía el black base, gracias por compartir sus conocimientos.
de nada José, gracias por mirar, Saludos, Chris
Great side-by-side comparison!!! For me, time or amount of paint is not a concern, I prefer weathering that is realistic and more subtle. I don't think one is 'better' than another, it's all a matter of personal taste. Watching this video certainly reminds you to experiment though. I especially like that you touch on a contentious point - weathering that is realistic or weathering that will win contests; something to think about when finishing your model.
lol, I like that - "weathering for the crowd". Judges do tend to be a 'fickle' bunch.
Most black basing I've seen uses gloss black base with white mottling. Seems to show up a little better on the finish coat. Your method is very nice, just a little more subtle.
Totally agree with you, takes way to long and too thick a paint to cover the pre-shading. One can always post shade if the panel line wash is not contrasting enough. Bravo
Great video! Straight up and no politics.
I'm just getting started with this hobby.. thanks for the awesome video.. I learnt so much...
You're welcome - don't hesitate to ask questions, this community is a friendly bunch. Cheers, Chris
Great explanation of black basing, but.... Why does almost everyone who airbrushes a model always shoots paint in an angle to the surface instead of perpendicular?
I have been searching for a video like this for black basing or preshading under a natural metal finish. Illustrating wear and irregularity in the metal . Any leads?
HI Richard, yep I did a video like that about how to use Alclads: th-cam.com/video/85uAle2rSw0/w-d-xo.html
Great video, that shows the difference well. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
The key is airbrushing with fine lines and not a wide flood of paint. Demarcation lines are often times too wide which ruins the model. Most demarcation is one step from a hard line. I've been finishing models with fine spray pattern for 30+ years.
Very true Russell, thanks for your comment..
Very interesting video Chris, I like the way you put it across, it's a nice change to hear an aussie point of view, found your last couple of vid's on the Flory Forum, of the raptor excellent viewing, I for one look forward to more, Cheers Clint.
how much of the 'mottling' is due to the limitations of photography at the time? Great tutorial.
Hi Chris, tx for this video. Highly instructive. I'll try black basing on my 1/72 P-39 that is in the making.
Best teaching so far..less talk more on the technic...keep it up sir
Subscribed. I am not one for weathering as I believe planes tend to be kept up fairly well in the military. The tutorial is great to learn technique. Older planes may have looked rough. Im not in it to win competitions so like its been pointed out, there is weathering for contest and then for fun. My friends don't really care how realistic models look, just the community of modelers. Thanks for the tutorial.
That black basing method with the various greys would look good, if not perfect, for 1/48 scale F-14Ds since late in service life Tomcats were rather grubby and subtly mottled from all the quick paint touch ups the maintenance crews did. If ever I do a "Bombcat", I'll try the black basing.
Looking over it the blackout shading definitely looks better.
While I get the aesthetic appeal of the pre-shading, I personally think the look is mostly suited for carrier aircraft or eastern block-types that have lived a rough life in all kinds of weather. It looks neat though.
Hi Chris, great work. I like both methods but loved the vid. Reason for my comment is to ask what clay wash do you recommend?
Hi Darko, I don't use clay washes anymore, but the Flory ones are adequate. I prefer enamel or thinned oils now for panel line washes, usually starting with Tamiya's range. Cheers, Chris
Excellent comparison. Thanks for going to the trouble. I often wondered why some preshaded aircraft models were pretty good but something just wasnt right. This makes it evident.
Nice tutorial. for me, I model both Mecha & real world - I primarily use preshade for the Mecha as I'm aiming for a cleaner look - I haven't tried the black undercoat/marble yet, but I think I'll give it a shot on my next afv.
Hi Chris
I have to agree......the black base and mottling effects, look far better than pre shade. top job
Cheers
Keith
Very well done ! Thank you so much for making a really useful video .
Greta video, very informative, ill try it on my next plane rather that pre shading
Nice demonstration. I agree with your conclusions. Well done.
When I was war-gaming I found much better results when I changed to black primer and it saved time as models and figures were shaded from the get go
Awesome! Watched a lot of techniques and all results didnt satisfy me. I found yours, and it matched all my ideas i had in my mind already before trying out. In the end you also compared both methods i had in mind ... Thanks for that. Finally it turned out the way i wanted... well for Mechwarrior figures (bigger scale), but in the end they used panels and rivets as well to construct the mechs.. :D Thanks again!
You're very welcome Dennis - thanks for watching! Cheers, Chris
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you for sharing! : )
You're welcome! Cheers Chris
I need to expand my skill set in to airbrushing.
Great tutorial! Pre shade side looks better, more solid.
I 100% agree with your "rant" at the end and the black basing looks more realistic. How would you approach a multi coloured Camo scheme with black basing? Could you prime in white, mottled in black and then apply thin coats of the separate colours to achieve this look?
Your first video? Nice job! Nice technique on the model too. The color that you chose, I think you called it “marble” I’ve never seen the belly of a real P51, but it thought they were supposed to be aluminum color. I’m not picking on you, just curious as to why that color was used.
Hi David - yep first video many moons ago....I only chose that colour because I knew it would stand out on the video to display the technique. In fact, black basing works best for lighter grey/blue tones, e.g all over USN or other naval aviation stuff, or the light tones under most military aircraft. Cheers, Chris
Excellent video. Thank you so much!!. By the way i'm looking for that base you use to paint the models without touching them, turning in circles with the model on it, what base is it? Thank you
Brilliant. Thanks. I think that, on a psychological level, people are merging two images, and coming up with pre-shading is the best. They are combining images from movies of in-action 'new tanks' with 70+ year-old surviving hulks that are heavily corroded. If you mix both those contrasting images of the same vehicles in the mind, you end up with heavy pre-shading in models. Not the more authentic look, as you point out.
Yep theres a difference psychologically with whats real and what people think looks real. Hard to convey in words, has to be done in pictures or indeed real life - a lot of the "heavily overweathered" preshaded stuff actually looks better in real life, 3 feet away on a table then the "real" stuff...again, hard to pin down!
Hi mate, I’m new to model making and currently trying my first black basing with marbling, you video is great step by step guideline and I watched it 4 times so far, just a question when I try to thinner to make paint ready for final layer it gets very watery and splashy! I use x-20 tamiya thinner and model master acrylic paint! Do i miss anything?
Great. What they said and please, more videos. It helps that I can understand the accent as well.
thanks for sharing... just getting into modelling. i'm curious, did you rescribe the panel lines before preshading and blackbasing both wings? would you recommend rescribing first even if the scale is 1:72?
Thanks for watching Allan and welcome to the hobby ! No I didn't rescribe the panel lines on this kit because they are nice and crisp. You may need to do this on older kits or new tool Airfix - but I wouldnt recommend on 1/72 unless you really want to enhance the preshaded look. Hope that helps, cheers Chris
When I paint I'm not concerned with time or the amount of paint I use, just the end result. When I do armor I think the preshading would be my best bet. On aircraft I thing either way would work, depending on the plane.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
The black base technique, the method of fill painting panels left a mottled effect all the way to post wash.
Couldn't you in theory apply both techniques at once? Rather pre-shade and then use the marbling technique to fill in everything? this should then give you both contrast and variation. Best of both worlds perhaps...? I'll have to try to know for sure.
Hi chris! Thanks for the great video. Where can I buy those small paint cups you use to mix the paint? I'm an Aussie too, but living in LA. Cheers mate!
nice video, i've been wondering for a while if what you call black basing would work, seems it does! also i wasn't sure how to approach this technique other than a sort of reverse pre shade, the marbling is something i wouldn't have worked out, however i wonder if reversing the colours would work on a black painted aircraft as i do have quite a few WW2 british bomber kits in my stash. thanks for sharing! phil.
What's your thoughts on a blend of the two methods? Preshading followed by a few marbling coats, instead of marbling and misting?
Hi great tutorial video keep them coming, you are using the Badger black primer may I ask, does it really self level or is the slight orange peel illustrated in the video masked by the final dried Matt finish. Regards Dave
I. agree with your previous writer, I was also in the RAF as a photographer for 15 years with a keen interest in all things mechanical.
The panel lines are in fact only shadows of the nearest material to them and take on their colour, eg a red panel next to a white panel would appear a paler red as the reflection from the white has more reflectivity. Also not sure all this talk of dirt on a/c is correct, my father was a crew chief (engines) on Lancs during WW2 and he assures me his a/c were always maintained between sorties and that included washing and cleaning, naturally hot exhausts take on their own colour and staining. Go to your local a/c museum and look carefully at any aircraft can you honestly see it covered in dark lines, I think not.
Does every person who builds model airplanes have to paint according to what is in the local museum?