To get that bottoms strut bolt out just push on the space where the top bolt was and that will loosen up the pinch allowing the lower bold to come out by hand
Around the 17/18 min mark, when you’re trying to fit the CV shaft into the steering knuckle, would it be easier to slide the knuckle over the CV shaft before bolting the knuckle down? Not sure if this is possible but thought I’d ask before I do my suspension
i like to a guy like me doing his own work. one point about the video is to be mindful, as you put it, i would put the cotter pin upwards like that because it may scrap the cv axle. something to think about.
one side took about 35-40 minutes. the issue you are going to face on the CR-V and with most hondas will be the lower ball joint. once you have the nut loose make it flush with the bottom of the ball joint. take your floor jake and jack up that ball joint, you want to see your suspension start to compress but don't do it so much that the car comes off jack stands. that will put pressure on it. then hammer on the control arm where the ball joint goes through. some f bombs and WD-40 will help free the ball joint from the control arm.
VGAPR Garage I already experienced that a few months ago when I spent 2 hours trying to get old ball joint out. It should come out fairly easy now that the customer wants to replace the entire control arm, axle, struts and sway bar links.
VGAPR Garage I ended up buying the ball joint tool from harbor Freight and it worked great. It sounded like a gun shot in the wheel well. Owner thought I was hurt. 😂
scroogie mcduck if you are reusing the springs and is not use a proper spring compressing tool it is dangerous. If you get quick struts it’s not dangerous at all
nice work except you really not supposed to final torque the control arm bolts without the weight of the car on them.. it puts the bushings in a bind. Put it all back together and load suspension then torque to specs.
Never heard of that... and makes no sense anyway why the control arm has to be under static load in order to torque the bolts. Bushings in the control are only really loaded when the car is in motion especially cornering. Bushings have metal inserts nothing is going to go wrong unless you over torque.
@@THE_CHOAS_ENGINE Just think about it..the idea is to have the bushing and steel insert move/pivot on the bolt together as one. If you torque the bolt before loading then risk the insert ripping away the inside of bushing when you put weight on it. The insert is not supposed to pivot on the outer part where the rubber is molded around it. You do it however you like though..it makes no difference to me.
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Glad u actually show it, others tell u what to do then leave u hanging
This was a good video
This was not an easy job to accomplish and you made it look easy! Great video!
Zack Scruggs I’m glad I could help. I’m also glad you’re keeping your Grand Prix going.
this was just what i was looking for dude thank you so much for uploading this
To get that bottoms strut bolt out just push on the space where the top bolt was and that will loosen up the pinch allowing the lower bold to come out by hand
excellent video, thank you for your hard work putting this together!
Awesome details my man really made the job easy
Thanks 👍
Do you recall what drop in strut assembly you went with? How was the ride?
Dude...nice damn video man! Wasn't even what I was after but nonetheless was very well done...thanks!!!
Around the 17/18 min mark, when you’re trying to fit the CV shaft into the steering knuckle, would it be easier to slide the knuckle over the CV shaft before bolting the knuckle down? Not sure if this is possible but thought I’d ask before I do my suspension
How long did it actually take you per side? Also how much money did you pay for the parts?
Good job dude, power tools are always a plus......
i like to a guy like me doing his own work. one point about the video is to be mindful, as you put it, i would put the cotter pin upwards like that because it may scrap the cv axle. something to think about.
Is the lower control arms 34 mm or 20 mm I have a 06 grand Prix GT
Great video. I have the same model. Why is rust so common in Up State New York?
Salt
How long did it take you for 1 side? I have to do everything you did plus CV axle on both sides on a 2002 CRV.
one side took about 35-40 minutes. the issue you are going to face on the CR-V and with most hondas will be the lower ball joint. once you have the nut loose make it flush with the bottom of the ball joint. take your floor jake and jack up that ball joint, you want to see your suspension start to compress but don't do it so much that the car comes off jack stands. that will put pressure on it. then hammer on the control arm where the ball joint goes through. some f bombs and WD-40 will help free the ball joint from the control arm.
VGAPR Garage
I already experienced that a few months ago when I spent 2 hours trying to get old ball joint out. It should come out fairly easy now that the customer wants to replace the entire control arm, axle, struts and sway bar links.
VGAPR Garage
I ended up buying the ball joint tool from harbor Freight and it worked great. It sounded like a gun shot in the wheel well. Owner thought I was hurt. 😂
boohoo
Does the front end need to get a realignment after this job?
Nope. The struts and sway bar links to not affect alignment
My 04 Grand Prix stabilizer bar bolts to the sway bar
Is this a particularly dangerous job with the strut and what not I mean?
scroogie mcduck if you are reusing the springs and is not use a proper spring compressing tool it is dangerous. If you get quick struts it’s not dangerous at all
nice work except you really not supposed to final torque the control arm bolts without the weight of the car on them.. it puts the bushings in a bind. Put it all back together and load suspension then torque to specs.
Never heard of that... and makes no sense anyway why the control arm has to be under static load in order to torque the bolts. Bushings in the control are only really loaded when the car is in motion especially cornering. Bushings have metal inserts nothing is going to go wrong unless you over torque.
@@THE_CHOAS_ENGINE Just think about it..the idea is to have the bushing and steel insert move/pivot on the bolt together as one. If you torque the bolt before loading then risk the insert ripping away the inside of bushing when you put weight on it. The insert is not supposed to pivot on the outer part where the rubber is molded around it. You do it however you like though..it makes no difference to me.
Agreed ur suppose to load the control arm up before tightening the bolts so the bushings dont tear
So it doesn't matter if you dont load the control arm up before tightening the bolts
Pro tip. Put the anti seize on the inside of the bearing instead of on the shaft.
That easyer way then fight I left strut on car good job
You don't need to use a spring compressor to remove the stock struts and springs??
Why I would just replace hole thing quick strut assbley
How dose Grand Prix have no and it 08 right
The tie rod just hit the side mount hole and the tie rod will pop right out
Is it just me, or did you forget to grease load that ball joint? The bell looked reallll soft and flat to me.
I do not install new parts on customers cars that have Greaseble joints. That’s just how that ball joint is supposed to look.
@@jth1987leb Ahh, fair enough! Informative video all the same!
Make this look like a breeze 🙀
I absolutely admire your frequent stops to see if it’s on cam. Respects
Don't pin your stabilizer before. Your fight the sway bar. 13/4 steel bar is hard to fight.