For those who do not have the special tool or any parts store near them but need this done today. If you cut a link of a chain (that fits the with of the bearing) and put that on the back side of that bearing with a washer and bolt and then bolt the rest of the chain to the front of the bearing and then bolt the end of the chain to one of the holes on an old brake drum it’ll pull the bearing out. Little ridiculous but works
I have watched several videos and this one was the best so far. The tip on leaving the cross pin in place and just rotating to use the flat for c-clip removal is valuable. Did the same repair on a 2001 Cherokee with the identical set up. The spider gears and their washers slid out of place. It is a PITA to put them back but its doable. Good idea to put the retaining bolt back into place or use a clean rag in the bottom of the diff to be sure the pin doesn't slide out during the bearing removal. Whole lot of shaking going on will dislodge the cross pin. Thanks for a great video.
I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video me and my son changed ours this weekend with all of us going to be hard but it was pretty easy and the truck is working again so thank you
Was hoping you would mention "shaft end-play" (in/out) motion. I have some in-out clunking and wondering if C-clip needs replaced if they wear. Thanks, great video
It's possible. It's also possible that the axle would be worn where the c-clip goes into it. However, I think that is less likely. Possible something else could be wrong as well. Keep in mind some in and out play is normal. I believe there is a spec for this if I'm not mistaken.
Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? I've got a video on it. It's quite common for a dirty sensor to cause these codes....especially when they set together.
Bought 2, no solved issue, but I just paid $$$ for OEM motorcraft. Smoke test, small leak at intake manifold and put seal on TPS sensor which was really leaking smoke but no more. VAC leaks can't find except at the manifold intake. I think I will pull it, clean it, put new seals or pay $1500 for someone else to do it. @@BarboursAutoHelp
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Best video I've found on this job. Thanks
Thanks!!
For those who do not have the special tool or any parts store near them but need this done today. If you cut a link of a chain (that fits the with of the bearing) and put that on the back side of that bearing with a washer and bolt and then bolt the rest of the chain to the front of the bearing and then bolt the end of the chain to one of the holes on an old brake drum it’ll pull the bearing out. Little ridiculous but works
I have watched several videos and this one was the best so far. The tip on leaving the cross pin in place and just rotating to use the flat for c-clip removal is valuable. Did the same repair on a 2001 Cherokee with the identical set up. The spider gears and their washers slid out of place. It is a PITA to put them back but its doable. Good idea to put the retaining bolt back into place or use a clean rag in the bottom of the diff to be sure the pin doesn't slide out during the bearing removal. Whole lot of shaking going on will dislodge the cross pin. Thanks for a great video.
Your video is perfect man. You’re very well spoken too. Thank you!
Ty buddy your great at explaining this. Just did my sons. Perfect
Excellent job! Definitely helpful since I have the exact same rear-end in my 93
Ranger. 👍🏻
Seems more fun than anything in my opinion, just the right amount of stress/risk in this home project
It can be highly rewarding if it all works out.... Good luck to you.
I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video me and my son changed ours this weekend with all of us going to be hard but it was pretty easy and the truck is working again so thank you
Step by step had no problems at all. Thank you very much. The hints also helped.
Super Awesome!!
A good imagine anybody doing a more descriptive job, thank you!
Wow, thank you!
This video was a life saver! Thank you
Glad it helped!
Was hoping you would mention "shaft end-play" (in/out) motion. I have some in-out clunking and wondering if C-clip needs replaced if they wear.
Thanks, great video
It's possible. It's also possible that the axle would be worn where the c-clip goes into it. However, I think that is less likely. Possible something else could be wrong as well. Keep in mind some in and out play is normal. I believe there is a spec for this if I'm not mistaken.
Excellent video! Made it very easy for me
Glad it helped!
This video was very helpful
Thanks.
Excellent video. Subscribed! So the oil from the differential lubricates the wheel bearing, not bearing grease?
That is correct
Brilliant tuition 👏
Awesome video. Thank you
Anyone got a link for the bearing removal tool? I'm looking around online and I'm only seeing the 3 jaw type and I'm not fond of those.
Are these the same as a bt50 ? An does this have abs ? Awesome video bro nice work
Real thero clean work looks good
All that rust looks like my Ranger of the same year. Been slowly removing rust and chasing down that damn P0171 and P0174 codes that I can't resolve.
Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? I've got a video on it. It's quite common for a dirty sensor to cause these codes....especially when they set together.
Bought 2, no solved issue, but I just paid $$$ for OEM motorcraft. Smoke test, small leak at intake manifold and put seal on TPS sensor which was really leaking smoke but no more. VAC leaks can't find except at the manifold intake. I think I will pull it, clean it, put new seals or pay $1500 for someone else to do it. @@BarboursAutoHelp
......................... Thank You !! Nice Tempo, Great '' Tips ''
Glad you liked it!
This is not the prettiest or the best tools is about getting the job done nice clean video brow keep it up
Do have the part number of the bearing
Sir, do have the part number of bearing
Why not just use the proper gasket instead of rtv?
Because RTV is what is supposed to be used.
Ok
Old bearing looked brand new