Yes Brian, totally agree with your concept. I've been using my 100-400 more and more lately and this idea opens up a ton of possibilities! Thanks much.
I have used long lenses to reduce the amount of foreground in pano shots while bringing out more detail because it enables you to get much closer to the scene. More recently I have started using my Sony 100-400mm lens to identify and shoot abstract elements in landscape settings or isolate an interesting featue. I picked up this technique from a travel workshop in South America. Both of these techniques are reasons I now shoot almost exclusively with zoom lenses. I do have the Sony 135mm prime but that is reserved for shooting people. I prefer it over the 85mm because it allows me to shoot without crowding the subject and I find I get more relaxed and natural results.
I'm with you re: the Sony 100-400. It's one of my most used zoom lenses these days for the same reasons you mention. I find that when I have an ultrawide lens on, I can find a handful of photos that I'm happy with but after that, I'm in more of a repeat mode shooting the same basic shot over and over. Those longer focal lengths definitely give me more creative flexibility and switching to vertical for a pano gives me those wide-esque comps that are far more pleasing thanks to the added compression.
Thanks Brian. I have been thinking lately that my Nikkor 70-200 mm f/2.8 has been resting for too long in its case. Chasing water birds in my backyard this last year with my 80-400mm lens has seen it not being used. It does shine in the dark Everglades with its ability to focus where it is so dark.
LR has come such a long way with producing solid pano stitches. Other than using my tripod leveling base in the field to get straight brackets, LR handles everything else.
I agree with your deductions on this. I use a canon M5 with two prime lenses because they are usually sharper with more detail. A 28 mm (46 mm full frame equivilent) and an 85 mm (136) both f1.8 Weight is a big issue for me and I only carry my two primes and a small 11 - 22 wide angle lens with me but stitched panos are usually taken with the primes to get closer and sharper detail mostly handheld. I only use the wide angle in towns and buildings.
Weight is a big factor for a lot of people, so you're in good company. I also stand by the fact that there is growth to be found in imposing creative limitations, such as sticking to a single focal length.
A 135mm Lens are great for Landscape Photography ! I use all of my Lenses for Landscape Photography, from 14mm to 600mm. I most often use my Sony 24mm 1.4 GM and Sony 135mm 1.8 GM, but also Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 35mm 2.0 Aspherical and Voigtländer Macro APO-Lanthar 65mm 2.0. I also sometimes use my Sony 14mm 1.8 GM, Sony Zeiss Sonnar 55mm 1.8 and less often Sony 200-600mm 5.6-6.3 G. Befor I got the Voigtländer Macro APO-Lanthar 65mm 2.0 I use my Leica Macro Elmarit R 60mm 2.8, but the Voigtländer are better. I have used many other Lenses for Landscape through the years, fx Hasselblad Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 and Hasselblad Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0 in 6x6cm black & white negative and color slide films.
This is great! When you do get a chance to make that video, could you please also show what the 18mm looks like from the same spot so we can see the difference in compression?
Thank you, E.J.! And, for sure, when I do film the "in the field" video showing you how I use the 135mm lens to simulate a wide shot, I'll be sure to compare it with an in-kind 18mm version. I've got you covered!
I like my Canon 100mm T&S lens for panoramic stitch photos. A friend once said you can't take landscape photos with a 300 mm lens until i showed him some coastal cliff shots on the SE coast of Tasmania.
Agreed, it's certainly easier... especially when using a gimbal or leveling base. But, I've also had some great success with stitching photos taken with an ultra-wide focal length.
Interesting video, Bria; and I enjoyed it very much. I have a question of vertical stitching. I understand horizontal stitching as I have it done numerous times with good results, but I always wanted to show more of the scenery. Here is my question. 1st horizontal stitching images A, B, C, D, E 2nd horizontal stitching lower than the first row, A2, B2, C2, D2, E2. 3rd horizontal row A3, B3, C3, D3, E3. How do you make then one composite of all the frames. Do the A's, B's.... have to line up vertically, too?
Yeah, you're basically on the right path. I do my best to have at least 20% overlap between each of the images on the horizontal row AND between rows. So I'd want 20% overlap between A1 and A2, but I'd also want 20% overlap between A1 and B1, A2 and B2, etc. Does that make sense? When that happens, I find that the pano stitching process is very seamless.
Great video, Brian. I have been shooting Panos with my Zeiss 50mm Loxia. I love the sharpness in the photo. I'll try Panos with my 135mm. I have also been shooting with my Sony 100-400 for landscapes. Actually, I have not been shooting my 16 to 35mm lately but I am shooting the 24mm occasionally. Can this be a landscape photographer's biorhythm? LOL
Man, I need to do some more videos on the Loxia lenses. I wrote a blog post a bit ago all about the 21mm Loxia. Those lenses are built like tanks and if you're ok with it being MF only, you can't beat the image production and build quality... in addition to the small size and weight. I find that I've been using my UWA lenses less and less, what does that say about my biorhythm?? 🤣
@@brianmatiash I only own the 50mm Loxia. When I refer to UWA to WA, I own Sony except for one Zeiss Batis 25mm ( a great lens, only eclipsed by the Sony gmaster 24mm IMO). The Loxia is built like a tank but small, and is very very sharp. It seems to always find its way to my bag, whether I am shooting landscapes or traveling. I am naturally not shooting zooms lately except on the long end. I love that you are using the 135 mm for landscapes, it's not just for portraits. I do love my 12 to 24 and my 16 to 35, but I am also using them less and less.
Interesting video, Brian. I shoot a Fuji X-T4 and one of my favorite lenses is the 90mm f2 (135mm full frame equivalent). As someone who looks for details when I shoot it's a great choice (and it's probably the sharpest lens in my kit). I'm not really a wide angle shooter and you brought up a great point about how wide-angle lenses make so much in the scene appear smaller. I look forward to seeing your videos in the field.
I find that using a long lens to hunt for details in a scene can be such a relaxing and therapeutic practice. And stay tuned for that in-the-field video!
I own a lot of Zeiss Glass for Canon Mount including the Milvus 18 and Apo 135 until I sold them a few weeks ago. Both are great lenses but for fixed focal lengths they are to specific for my taste. In Flatlands near the Ocean every photo looks the same with 18mm, on the other end 135 is soo narrow that it often feels a little uncomfortable and portraits also look very similar. The 18mm is suprisingly good for certain portraits and the 135mm is very interesting for Landscapes, because you have many "Compositions". But both lenses are now replaced by 25mm and 100mm both at 1.4. Everything above or below that I think is probably better served with a zoom lens, since these are very sharp nowadays even at 2.8 :-) best c
@@brianmatiash That lens never disappoints. I keep meaning to grab a TC for it but seem to always find other ways to spend my photo money. Maybe I'll pick on up for the spring/summer. I do a lot of land/sea/mountainscapes from my boat while also photographing whales. It's sort of the perfect boat lens.
The TC is not a big priority, IMHO. In fact, I’ve found some situations where I lose sharpness when using it. Also, depending on which ND filters I use, I sometimes get funky artifacts at the longer end of the focal range. It may be totally different for you, but it does make me worry sometimes.
Yessir! I've got one planned out already. I just need to wait for this blizzard to pass through and then I can begin scouting the specific location to film. But, it is coming!
![⭐ฮิตในTikTok!! ( มะมะมะหมูเด้ง MooDeng ) Ver. แดนซ์ ReMix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4noyAoMa7bQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Brian - always great to see you my friend!!
Yes Brian, totally agree with your concept. I've been using my 100-400 more and more lately and this idea opens up a ton of possibilities! Thanks much.
Excelllent! The 100-400 is an outstanding telephoto zoom and has a bunch of creative uses in the field.
What a great idea Brian. When the weather warms up I'll be out trying this.Looking forward to your next video on this!
Thanks so much! I’m looking forward to filming it.
Nice Brian. Good to see some content. I have always appreciated your videos
I appreciate that! There's plenty more to come!
I have used long lenses to reduce the amount of foreground in pano shots while bringing out more detail because it enables you to get much closer to the scene. More recently I have started using my Sony 100-400mm lens to identify and shoot abstract elements in landscape settings or isolate an interesting featue. I picked up this technique from a travel workshop in South America. Both of these techniques are reasons I now shoot almost exclusively with zoom lenses. I do have the Sony 135mm prime but that is reserved for shooting people. I prefer it over the 85mm because it allows me to shoot without crowding the subject and I find I get more relaxed and natural results.
I'm with you re: the Sony 100-400. It's one of my most used zoom lenses these days for the same reasons you mention. I find that when I have an ultrawide lens on, I can find a handful of photos that I'm happy with but after that, I'm in more of a repeat mode shooting the same basic shot over and over. Those longer focal lengths definitely give me more creative flexibility and switching to vertical for a pano gives me those wide-esque comps that are far more pleasing thanks to the added compression.
I agree, I often use mine for panoramas also, it works really well for this also both vertical and horizontal
Video looks and sounds GREAT man!!!
Thanks, dude! I appreciate that a lot! Hope all is going well with ya!
Thanks Brian. I have been thinking lately that my Nikkor 70-200 mm f/2.8 has been resting for too long in its case. Chasing water birds in my backyard this last year with my 80-400mm lens has seen it not being used. It does shine in the dark Everglades with its ability to focus where it is so dark.
No time like the present to wipe off the dust and give that lens some TLC, Thomas!
Some of my favorite landscape shots were taken with my 70-200mm f2.8. Hadn't considered using pano as you shown. Project for spring/post covid.
Indeed!
Love this technique. Do we need to find the nodal point of each lens or will Lr/Ps do the heavy lifting for us?
LR has come such a long way with producing solid pano stitches. Other than using my tripod leveling base in the field to get straight brackets, LR handles everything else.
I agree with your deductions on this. I use a canon M5 with two prime lenses because they are usually sharper with more detail. A 28 mm (46 mm full frame equivilent) and an 85 mm (136) both f1.8 Weight is a big issue for me and I only carry my two primes and a small 11 - 22 wide angle lens with me but stitched panos are usually taken with the primes to get closer and sharper detail mostly handheld. I only use the wide angle in towns and buildings.
Weight is a big factor for a lot of people, so you're in good company. I also stand by the fact that there is growth to be found in imposing creative limitations, such as sticking to a single focal length.
A 135mm Lens are great for Landscape Photography !
I use all of my Lenses for Landscape Photography, from 14mm to 600mm. I most often use my Sony 24mm 1.4 GM and Sony 135mm 1.8 GM, but also Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 35mm 2.0 Aspherical and Voigtländer Macro APO-Lanthar 65mm 2.0. I also sometimes use my Sony 14mm 1.8 GM, Sony Zeiss Sonnar 55mm 1.8 and less often Sony 200-600mm 5.6-6.3 G. Befor I got the Voigtländer Macro APO-Lanthar 65mm 2.0 I use my Leica Macro Elmarit R 60mm 2.8, but the Voigtländer are better. I have used many other Lenses for Landscape through the years, fx Hasselblad Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 and Hasselblad Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0 in 6x6cm black & white negative and color slide films.
This is great! When you do get a chance to make that video, could you please also show what the 18mm looks like from the same spot so we can see the difference in compression?
Thank you, E.J.! And, for sure, when I do film the "in the field" video showing you how I use the 135mm lens to simulate a wide shot, I'll be sure to compare it with an in-kind 18mm version. I've got you covered!
I like my Canon 100mm T&S lens for panoramic stitch photos. A friend once said you can't take landscape photos with a 300 mm lens until i showed him some coastal cliff shots on the SE coast of Tasmania.
Oh man, I WISH Sony would just give me one T/S lens. The Canon 17mm T/S is legendary to this day.
@@brianmatiash I'd certainly like one of those for indoors and confined street scapes. Retired now so $$$ are sparser
Actually it is better to stitch telephoto shots than using wide angle in many situations. Great video.
Agreed, it's certainly easier... especially when using a gimbal or leveling base. But, I've also had some great success with stitching photos taken with an ultra-wide focal length.
Interesting video, Bria; and I enjoyed it very much. I have a question of vertical stitching. I understand horizontal stitching as I have it done numerous times with good results, but I always wanted to show more of the scenery. Here is my question. 1st horizontal stitching images A, B, C, D, E 2nd horizontal stitching lower than the first row, A2, B2, C2, D2, E2. 3rd horizontal row A3, B3, C3, D3, E3. How do you make then one composite of all the frames. Do the A's, B's.... have to line up vertically, too?
Yeah, you're basically on the right path. I do my best to have at least 20% overlap between each of the images on the horizontal row AND between rows. So I'd want 20% overlap between A1 and A2, but I'd also want 20% overlap between A1 and B1, A2 and B2, etc. Does that make sense? When that happens, I find that the pano stitching process is very seamless.
Great video, Brian. I have been shooting Panos with my Zeiss 50mm Loxia. I love the sharpness in the photo. I'll try Panos with my 135mm. I have also been shooting with my Sony 100-400 for landscapes. Actually, I have not been shooting my 16 to 35mm lately but I am shooting the 24mm occasionally. Can this be a landscape photographer's biorhythm? LOL
Man, I need to do some more videos on the Loxia lenses. I wrote a blog post a bit ago all about the 21mm Loxia. Those lenses are built like tanks and if you're ok with it being MF only, you can't beat the image production and build quality... in addition to the small size and weight. I find that I've been using my UWA lenses less and less, what does that say about my biorhythm?? 🤣
@@brianmatiash I only own the 50mm Loxia. When I refer to UWA to WA, I own Sony except for one Zeiss Batis 25mm ( a great lens, only eclipsed by the Sony gmaster 24mm IMO). The Loxia is built like a tank but small, and is very very sharp. It seems to always find its way to my bag, whether I am shooting landscapes or traveling. I am naturally not shooting zooms lately except on the long end. I love that you are using the 135 mm for landscapes, it's not just for portraits. I do love my 12 to 24 and my 16 to 35, but I am also using them less and less.
Interesting video, Brian. I shoot a Fuji X-T4 and one of my favorite lenses is the 90mm f2 (135mm full frame equivalent). As someone who looks for details when I shoot it's a great choice (and it's probably the sharpest lens in my kit). I'm not really a wide angle shooter and you brought up a great point about how wide-angle lenses make so much in the scene appear smaller. I look forward to seeing your videos in the field.
I find that using a long lens to hunt for details in a scene can be such a relaxing and therapeutic practice. And stay tuned for that in-the-field video!
I own a lot of Zeiss Glass for Canon Mount including the Milvus 18 and Apo 135 until I sold them a few weeks ago. Both are great lenses but for fixed focal lengths they are to specific for my taste. In Flatlands near the Ocean every photo looks the same with 18mm, on the other end 135 is soo narrow that it often feels a little uncomfortable and portraits also look very similar. The 18mm is suprisingly good for certain portraits and the 135mm is very interesting for Landscapes, because you have many "Compositions".
But both lenses are now replaced by 25mm and 100mm both at 1.4. Everything above or below that I think is probably better served with a zoom lens, since these are very sharp nowadays even at 2.8 :-)
best
c
For me it's my Sony 100-400. Terrific lens for landscapes.
Oh absolutely. That is my go-to telephoto zoom lens for landscape work. Sometimes, I'll also throw on the 1.4x TC if I need a bit of extra reach.
@@brianmatiash That lens never disappoints. I keep meaning to grab a TC for it but seem to always find other ways to spend my photo money. Maybe I'll pick on up for the spring/summer. I do a lot of land/sea/mountainscapes from my boat while also photographing whales. It's sort of the perfect boat lens.
The TC is not a big priority, IMHO. In fact, I’ve found some situations where I lose sharpness when using it. Also, depending on which ND filters I use, I sometimes get funky artifacts at the longer end of the focal range. It may be totally different for you, but it does make me worry sometimes.
@@brianmatiash that's great info. Thank you!
Can you do a Tips-N-Tricks video on how to do a great Pano?
Yessir! I've got one planned out already. I just need to wait for this blizzard to pass through and then I can begin scouting the specific location to film. But, it is coming!
@@brianmatiash Thanks Brian!
Just bought a RF 70-200 f/4 for this very reason 👍🏽
Sweet! You're going to love using longer focal lengths with your landscape shoots!
i use a 135 to isolate portion of a waterfall rather than the whole waterfall whic can be boring.