Is Crackle Paste Any Good For Wargaming Or Basing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2020
- in this video i find out if Crackle paste is any good. but the point of this video is not to try it and see its about learning to use what you have. In modeling and wargaming we are quick to blame the product rather than learning what the possibility's are. i chose a crackle paste that people in wargaming arnt happy with the results of so here is me trying to get good results with it
crackle pastes
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If you mix a tiny bit of PVA glue with the paste, it sticks better and the cracks are better. I mixed around 1/4 PVA and 3/4 crackle paste.
Awesome thanks for the tip.
Thanks👍🏻
by better do you mean bigger? It seems from my experiments additives make the cracks fewer and bigger.
I put the pva right on the base and let it dry first. Works well. I'll try mixing it though, thanks for the tip!
@@narutobankai yes, the flakes are bigger and I think the cracks are deeper.
I use crackle paste in my artwork. It’s a great medium to use! It’s awesome to use as “wood”. People think that I use real wood in my art!
I am partial to texture in me crack.
Hey Luke, really liking these videos you're doing of testing out products... very useful.
I recently purchased this product 2 weeks ago myself and did some testing.
My take away - 1 the base needs to be solid, if the product is on something with give, it causes it to curl, curl means less cracks.
2 the product over a larger area has a large variance of cracks, meaning some areas will have small cracks some small and with different designs. even on that same base.
3 another way to get bigger cracks is 2 coats, the first coat dries for 30 minutes to an hour and then a second coat is applied, this makes bigger cracks.
4 acrylic paint can be used as it is said on the bottle. I used ten percent brown paint and it wasnt nearly as paled as lukes did. It did still get paler but our results were almost the same. It led to fewer larger cracks in general.
5 my biggest personal take away was to apply the product with a pallette knife (especially if no ink or paint was added) the product is quite self adhesive so brushes, finger, etc tended to make sharp, uneven, and apparent patterns. ie the product doesnt flow at all, it will stay in place almost like a clay, normally I want it flat, a pallette knife made it much easier to do (because metal and the angle).
It will be good to see how you expand on these. Great video again 👍
thanks for the vid! 2 years late but this video really helped me get into cracked bases. I even grabbed the same product so looking forward to doing some further experiments
That last base, the uncoloured one with sand, that could be an awesome Salt Flats baseing theme.
Another great video! Well done, and very informative! Thanks Luke!!
Always enjoy your "experiment" vids Luke. Cheers.
Vince Venturella did a video on this sort of thing and what he does is, he lays down some texture paste before laying down the crackle paint over the top while both are wet. The two pastes dry at different rates which helps pull the crackle apart to make bigger cracks.
PMSL laughing. And THIS is why techincal authors over the world (who write the instructions) die a little inside.
14:45 - That might not have been what you were after, but that color and those hairline cracks look perfect for asphalt. A little bit of drybrushing and a couple painted yellow lines and *chef's kiss*.
Hey Luke, you need to score the base, add some PVA and that should work and it'll grab the base better.
I'm really glad I found this video, I recently purchased some of the Golden Crackle Paste and was underwhelmed with the results. Your experiment has inspired me to give it another shot.
Thanks for the show case of crackle paste mate, enjoyed it ^_^. Never actually used crackle paste myself.
It is an expensive but awesome product for bases. Just like aggrelan earth. Obviously this route you can customize more and isnt quite as expensive. Makes great ice bases, almost instant desert bases, and great for adding variance for basing natural type things. Probably the best looking to speed base effect in my opinion.
Seeing the different tests next to eachother is so helpful. I'm trying to get a ceramic look on a big piece and I want to hit the sweet spot of small enough cracks that they read as a crazed glaze over white ceramic but large enough that they are actually visible.
Good to see experimenting with traditional art supplies. I've been using the same stuff for a while and it definitely takes some practice and patience to get right.
The fact that this channel only has 108,000 subs is a crime. You've made more helpful content for basing and building on a budget than nearly anybody, and I for one appreciate it.
Great video, useful little test👍🏻
"I look like I terrified a Squid" Broke me :)
just got an 8 oz jar of this today from my local art store, thanks man. Super helpful. As a future follow up did you try drybrushing the samples to see how they looked with the cracks a bit more highlighted?
"Looks like I've terrified a squid!" I've watched that tiny clip 4 times now and I'm still giggling.
Is great to see videos of experts using Golden pastes, my local paint store has a shitload of them and all the info I find in the internet is about canvas painting.
Thanks for the quality explanation and video
Cracking video, cheers Luke.
Great video and shows just how important experimentation is. I use the GW Mordant Earth for my bases and found that on a warm day in my conservatory the cracks were so better. I now ardcoat the surface underneath and leave the bases somewhere warm and have never looked back.
when i got back into the hobby i checked out the art store next to my house and the first thing i bought were golden products just like the crackling paint, heavy gel, and some granular ones. The most granular ones have a good grain size to use as some sort of rubble to get a transition from base to building going. but what i liked the most was the transparent gel which i used as "ice" supplement ;) worked out fine.
Nice one! WOuld love to see you tackle cyberpunk at some point.
I have failed miserably with the golden stuff trying to get a similar effect to the GW crackle but have found it works really well for cracked glass or ice on larger areas.
The EonsOfBattle channel had a great desert/crackle base tutorial, I actually went and hunted down the particular brand of crackle paste they used because my pot of GW's Agrellan Earth was really disappointing, I think it just didn't have enough crackle medium in it. I've found that you can get some interesting results laying down the crackle paste over an uneven surface, such as other texture paints.
Are you planning to add the crackle paste to your store? It was a bit of a pain to hunt down the last lot I got.
I know the one used in the video is golden crackle paste which is widely available, golden is one of the larger brands of art supplies. I got mine off of amazon, but I have seen it in hobby lobby, walmart (not the crackle just the brand), and other art supply stores. It is pretty expensive though.
Golden actually recommends there Golden GAC 500 and to lay it down first and then apply the Golden Crackle Paste and it adherer's better and doesn't tend to warp either.
Ok this was interesting! I got that same one and used it like a year ago, little different look of the jar but same product I’m sure. You can apply it thick over a large oval base, and get some bigger texture but it sure takes a while for it to crack, I did something with masking tape around the rim of the base and just pulled it off, no warping to the base (130mm citadel oval) so maybe not having it all the way out helped. Found it hard to apply colour to it but you seemed to have nailed it here, gonna give it another go!
The products seems pretty porous to me, mine really sucked up washes and glazes I applied to it.
Good vid buddy. I found when doing mine I got better results when I put down the base colour that’ll be seen through the cracks then applying a thin layer of watered down PVA. Let that dry overnight and then put the crackle glaze on top.
I actually like the result you got mixing it with the sand. It would make a really convincing render for boulders, cliff faces etc I reckon!
I like using Kroma crackle gel. It doesn't take as long to dry and gives MUCH more deep definition. It's also similarly delicate to some of your results and requires a watery-pva to bind it
I've found that if you coat the base with a decent layer of pva glue first, let it dry, and then use the crackle paste, you get some good results. The pva glue is rubbery enough to let it crack but still stick to the base.
Would adding dry pigments instead of inks work out? You may still need to add something to thin it out some.
I found using something like vallejo texture paste as a base once it has dried, allows for the perfect grip for GW or Deoc art crackle to adhere to. It will not flake off. Now if you use a thin amount of GW crackle with vallejo texture dirt, you can achieve a nice shift from dirt to cracked earth. And recently on a small scrap piece of wood I used Deco art due to its larger cracks, as a test with 30 blue and green paints, for reference of possible ice glazes. For large cracks Deco art is cheap and plentiful, though I don't think you can achieve the small cracks that GW crackle paste can.
my experiments showed that with the golden crackle paste small cracks can easily be achieved if a thinner layer is used, larger and deeper for more used. The product has a lot of variation in the cracks used either way, which is nice but also frustrating. I have hesitated to try the gw crackle, but I have seen the gw crackle separate so much its almost like small little islands - a cool effect in its own right.
I just started messing with this stuff a couple days ago. I find it works best if you add a little bit of water to thin it a bit, it kind of foams when you mix the water in and then apply it at that 1 - 1.5mm thickness and it works great. I also tint it with paint, but only just a little bit, I've used Vallejo and Citadel. The most important thing though, is base the thing your putting it on with a thin layer of glue. I tested with regular LePage wood glue, and Elmers Clear "School Glue" (whatever that means) and the clear school glue worked better but they both made a big difference in the quality of the cracks; I was testing on a glass square in sections.
Edited - Spelling
I find with these putting it on and putting a hair dryer on hot makes it crack way more. Fast drying is what makes it crack
love the vids mate keep up the great work i know my table building has come a long way from watching and seeing all the stuff you do :) ps i should be back starting TH-cam again soon cos my little boy is starting full time school so ive decided to go full on into mini painting and TH-cam etc so defo have to get you on my channel soon mate like the od school Chilling War-gamer days lol :)
A test for crack textured ,using dry powder filler. If get a small tray pva /diluted to cover up to 1mm depth then sieve over the 3mm filler powder ( you want the majority of the powder not absorbed into the pva) ,then shake from side to side like an earth quake. let it partially set ,until can tip off the excess. Makes textured wadi/dry river beds . Cheaper than paste. Just be more technical to achieve. The lids of the washing machine capsules boxes long and thin work ,well (soft enough to lift off) for trays. Faster drying than 3 days also. Hope helps.
I used the same product, I will say that it definitely doesn't need 3 days, probably 97 percent of the cracking is done in the first 24 hours. What is dry powder filler? pigment powder? baking soda? plaster? wood fiber? How do the cracks look? big? deep? few or many?
@@narutobankai Hi, wall filler ( polyfiller type) It's cheap to try It's brittle when lifting, but sealed can get a 2-3 mm depth and plenty of crack variation and hardens up for paint no worries. trial in smaller soft plastid lids . So long as more powder than is absorbed by the glue ,then agitate side to side and tip off excess ,most starts to go off in about an hr.2-3 hrs dry enough to lift and mount.
You might want to try airbrushing the paint on while the paste is 'wet' that worked well for me and didn't impact cracking. May also work for texturing the wet surface.
I found that I could get it to go on in a thinner layer if I thinned it down with 90% alcohol (to the point that it is more of a gritty gel than a paste). I use alcohol to thin it rather than water because it evaporates faster.
As he said, dont be afraid of trying different things guys, thats the way you'll get better at this hobby. Great video, really helped me a lot.
Great experiment! I feel like the one with more black ink with the hairline cracks could be sweet for leather stuff... idea!
I think a crackle paint would probably achieve the same effect but be much much muchhhhh cheaper. The depth is what separates this from crackle paste and texture paste is at least ten times more expensive.
Your thumbnail is amazing! lol
wich one is cheapest. I want to cover a good amount of a table with it
I sprinkled fine sand like what he used on top as well as very small stones changed the texture nicely also I sanded my baces to give it something to bite too. On a building I wanted to look like Adobe I put on a very thin layer waited a bit and put a second thicker layer I use golden high flow medium once it dries to prevent it from flaking off
Like others have said I never before used this substance on model bases and as for volcanic textures , well I paint everything as I see it - but thnks for this video Like, shows all this downtime is not keeping you at your PS4 playstation.
You keep looking up. Are you expecting a giant foot to squish you? PS I'd like to see how you'd make a lava base. You mentioned prepainting red/yellow, how well does that show through those few cracks? (Or I could just try it myself...)
I painted it on to my randy teenage sons birthday card and wrote "plenty of cracks for you to explore during lockdown"
I started using crackle paste when I was painting on canvas and I never noticed the wait 3 days either. I have been mixing a small amount of paste with a little water to spread it smooth and thin, then paint over the cracks. I tried with paints but felt the binder in the paints kept it from cracking as it should.
In my experiments almost all of the cracking took place in the first 24 hours
I tried ot color it with molotov one for all paint, it also crackle when drying thick(in my dry pallet). It allowed for lot's of color and good crackling.
Swatch and test all materials before any project. GOT IT Thanks.
Hey Lee, stop taping boxes for 20 minutes 😛
Just get Lee to tape up some cardboard box walls 👍😂
Primer will 'grab & hold' the crackle paste, creating wider cracks.
Love the thumbnail!
Great craic.
The thinner black actually looks like pretty decent asphalt.
Excellent video
Try putting dry pigments in. Might solve both the color anx texture problem
I've used this for bases, you can get good results but it feels like a 50/50 whether it comes out good.
I used a heavy black wash and then a series of semi-dry brushes of reds.
I did a few experiments with the cheaper monte marte brand. The cheaper stuff just doesnt work as well even when used 'neat', and adding anything to it made it not crack at all. There was no way to apply it smoothly cuz adding water made it not work.
Those chuffing bloopers at the end 😂
I use it to create frost effects with a lot of success.
Best advise ever! People keep chasing for the golden tool and one does not exist. I see this with airbrushes all the time. You can get great results with a simple Badger and most people do not need a S&H. Putting in the time is the important part be it painting or crafting.
Crackle paste! *You* were the one that made me aware of it in a video some time ago, i'm coincidentally preparing to do a round of bases with crackle paste this weekend. The single best tip after playing with it for some time is to cover the base in a layer of PVA or varnish/medium before you apply it. Sticks a hell of a lot better, cracks better and in general works as expected, even better than over a primed or painted base for some reason. And you do not need the full 3 days for this, leave it overnight and it should be OK, plus some people (including even an official WarhammerTV video using their products) actually use a hairdryer on this stuff which seems to work despite the warnings on the pot. Also Trovarion did very similar tests including the successful use of texture, with interesting results (seems like the sand cannot be too thin or will stop the crackling, like you found), ten-min video, worth a watch before you do a second round of tests: th-cam.com/video/v3b8qq9Mjpc/w-d-xo.html
how bout to just sand it with rough sand paper :)
There was this album on reddit, imgur.com/a/IQK0JvN www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/i95tgj/i_tried_to_compare_several_crackling_pastes_for/ which was really useful for seeing how different base surfaces affect the crackling layer. I tried with PVA and gloss varnish and applying the crackle on a dried PVA in a thin layer gives a good effect.
@@darkkisfin This is very useful! Thanks!
Have you tried making it yourself. your other diy products are amazing
Thank you :)
Why spend cash on crackle paste?
Paint the object the colour you want the actual cracks to be. Leave to dry.
Then layer a thin coat of PVA glue over it. Leave to dry completely.
Then, paint on top of the PVA glue with the colour you want the actual surface to be.
As that top coat dries, it shrinks... and cracks the PVA glue, revealing the basecoat.
Simple.
Works really well on homemade trees.
Basecoat dark brown or even with black.
PVA on top.
Top coat light brown.
Hey presto, treebark.
Luke, have you tried wall compound/drywall compound/wall spackle for this type of application? I have had some good results with it for texture basing and the coolest part for me is that it actually crackles more, the more acrylic paint and sand you add to it. Something you might want to check out. I get mine at the dollar store for you the pound shop, and have found the cheaper and lower quality the compound the better my results are. I get the little 8oz/230ml tubs. I add a lot of brown paint and a handful of sand to it, and then use it for basing. If I want it smooth I will take some out and add pva glue to it. If I want it crackled I will gloss varnish the base, slap it on with no glue, then accelerate the drying with a hair dryer. Anyway, if you see this maybe you might be interested in giving it a shot.
This is great, I know I will definitely try it. The product is super expensive. I had tried using concrete plus acrylic. I tried using mortar plus acrylic but could get cracks. I will have to try this again though on gloss base coats though. I always had an underlayer or paint at least. If you have more exact portions used please let me know, it would be helpful for a place to start when I try to do your technique. Texture paste is EXPENSIVE
@@narutobankai I don't know exact measures, but I can say for the little 8oz tub of spackle I add enough brown paint to cover the top then I mix it. Once that is mixed I add a good bit of sand right away since I always mix sand into it. When I use it I then take a small scoop out, just enough for what I am using and add the other ingredients for the use I am doing. It should always still resemble paste, never thing enough to be confused with paint. Another thing is that once applied and dry, if I add super glue and let it dry again, it's hard as a rock. I can smack it on things without breaking it.
what about trying pigment powders and inks in combination?
Let us know - specifically me :D - how powders and powders and inks go. I hadnt thought of it and only put powder on top. I was stupid and applied paint into my whole batch, so no more testings for me.
Paint your base with a thin layer of PVA (on top of your base/primer colour) and let it dry before painting it!
Chris at GrossModels on his livestream did the base for his whatever-its-called GW dragon, and forgot to paint the PVA layer, the official GW crackle paint stuff hardly cracked at all, and the cracks that did happen were only small and were a bit prone to flaking. With the PVA layer it looked much more like real lava under cracked volcanic rock.
Great vid and great advice.
Hey Luke , try first undercoating your bases with PVA before using the crackle paints , this how i did my gw bases
Pva is basically what is in most primers anyways. Pva plus water- mod podge- a sealer and a primer that is matte; floor polish for gloss sealer or primer. (matte works better as primer, gloss is stronger protection/sealer)
killscrew i found i got better results with pure PVA than with primer
@@philhoggart764 oh fantastic! I will have to try that out myself then, thanks!
I thought you were just going to sprinkle the sand on top of the product, I think that would work better... but what do I know. lol
Maybe add the sand on top while wet? That might work?
Thats a good thought, I know I am personally gonig to try this.
did you try watering it down at all?
Another great video Lee always checking you tube for new vids but my wallet dislikes you just ordered some range 😀 keep up the great work u do
Thank you , Luke .
lesson for th day , play with it til it gets good ,
I always experiment with stuff that I buy, I just buy stuff to see what it does I've found all sorts of weird effects.
I understand why people wouldnt with products like this though. It is so expensive you want to "save it" and use it sparingly and only for things you specifically need it for. I know thats what I did. This is one of those products though, were the alternative kinds are expensive as well.
I've used crackle medium before. Rather than a thick paste, crackle medium goes on more like a clear-coat, and whatever paint you apply over top will crack as it dries. The paste seems to give more of a look of dried, cracked mud rather than the wider cracks I've gotten with a crackle medium. Also, I doubt the paste would be very useful on anything aside from bases or other large, flat areas. I've used crackle medium directly on miniatures before, such as on dragon wings, with a very interesting effect.
Which kind?
crackle medium and paste are a bit different. the paste lends itself to deeper and more defined effects. In my opinion it is much better and looks more effective for cracked type bases. crackle medium and paints is much less defined and looks more like antique or old paint. Slightly different effects, but drastically different prices.
I am waiting for you making cheap home made/ diy formula. Becouse there must be.
Wow 😍😍
Cracking video
If you’re wanting a lot of this stuff, go to a Hardware store. Get it by the litre in the wood care isle.
what do they call it?
Josh Foss Depends on what country your in. Just go to the paint counter and ask for a crackle effect paint. Most DIY paint shops have a version of it on the shelf.
'Ow do!
COFEE+ACRILIC PAINT=CRACKLES!
The bases you're using look like cheese and now I'm hungry 😂
I'm too chicken to use crackle paste for basing
That’s a very small surface to be able to really see the results…..
I tried Pebeo Cracking Medium which is basically garbage in a bottle. Regardless of what I do with it.
@@GeekGamingScenics No, absolutely. But just as a point, it's crap. Meant to work with acrylics on numerous types of surfaces, and does diddly squat. When it failed to do the job on Wood, the substance it specifically states it's great on, I decided to sack it right off. I have, since experimenting with it, used on to various pastes with a reasonable amount of success. Mostly from the Deco Arts stuff.
@@jondavidev try the Pebeo crackle paste instead. It comes with a small tube of transparent base coat that you apply first, then slap the paste on top and leave for an hour. I use it mixed with straight acrylic paint, and stick it on a radiator to set. It gives nice big deep cracks, rather than a multitude of hairline cracks.
I tried crackle medium and got zero results, other than a bit of a glossy glaze.
Damn! Am I the only one who whats to spread that on a bit of cake and eat it? LOL
I am a little hit or miss with the crackle effect. I know it is a great tool but I hate the idea of having to deal with bases the have parts falling off. I know it needs to be sealed in. like I said, love hate.
Maybe use some gloves if it smells of ammonia? Learned that from reading.
Just prime it and paint it after.
Hi Luke. There may be another use for texture paint. I've seen this guy on Instagram using one of Citadel's Texture paints to create some kind of scales on his Trigon. Maybe you could check it out. Won't be sharing his name, but you can search him by #tyranids on Instagram
How very helpful... there are only 100k+ tags for #Tyranids
Er, pipettes for ink? 😂