Restoring Vintage Toggle Switches
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
- Click clack! It's the sound of the toggle switch! It's finally time for this channel to live up to it's name, and look at fixing up some old and well used switches! || Visit PCBWay! Their STM service starts from just $30 within 24 hours! www.pcbway.com/pcb-assembly.html
For some reason TH-cam doesn't allow me to add endscreens properly right now, so click the links below if you want to see the videos linked:
Alameda Point Antiques Faire: • Browsing (and Shopping...
Etching Brass Plaques: • Acid Etching Brass Pla...
Get your merch on: switchandlever.com/merch
Follow and like Switch & Lever on:
Facebook: / switchandlever
Instagram: / switchandlever
Twitter: / switchandlever
Pinterest: / switchandlever
Linkedin: www.linkedin.com/profile/view?...
And check out the Switch & Lever online store at:
www.switchandlever.com/store/ - บันเทิง
For gluing threaded insert I usually put a greased screw in the insert, makes for a sort of handle and the grease stops the epoxy from sticking on the threads
Same but I use wax.
Same but i omit the insert
I was going to suggest this also. Works when melting it in as well.
Drilling toward your finger. You are a brave man.
When you hit the BIG time . . . ya' gotta' take some chances. It increases your machismo image. Other good techniques are NO narration, slamming things around, filming at high speed and Muzak (that's the stuff you hear in top-notch grocery stores).
That little hand vice is LOVELY... I want one!
I am continually impressed with the constant increase in editing quality on your videos. It’s properly great and keeps getting better. Great job.
Cheers!
Now I don’t feel so crazy for doing this. Sometimes I spend hours restoring just a few of these old switches. But it’s so much fun!
Nice. I have worked for a switch manufacturer for over 20 years, thanks for a great video.
Great video Daniel! I can't believe I've just spent 20 minutes watching a bloke taking little tiny switches apart 👍 😁
A good tip is that an ultrasonic cleaner can make short work of any caked on grime.
And now Ladies and Gentlemen the 2019 TH-cam Oscar awards, in the categories 'Best Editing', 'Best movie' (and maybe best actor too).... the winner is... Switch & Lever ! :-) Such a nice video again, thank you.
I wish! I'd put that Oscar in the mill and lathe and make something cool from all that bronze! Would make for a cool video!
Excellent work, loved the '80s montage.
Hi there!
I have a Carling SPDT switch from a CryBaby Wah that had so much grase inside that the conections were fault.
I disassembled it and in my search for a way to reassemble I found this video.
Now I´m confident that my restoration job will be great!
Thank you for this amazing video!
This is the first video on your channel I've seen, and I'm impressed at your thorough care to restoring vintage equipment and handiwork. Subscribed, as I am interested to keep up to date with your adventures. Stay awesome!
Have to love a line of switches to flip! Very nicely done!
Really super video..and impressive knowledge! Enjoyed this immensely as I'm repairing a toggle switch for my MGB GT car!
Very cool. You’ve got to love the sound and feel of a good toggle switch
Nice, great story and video. Well done.
Nicely done Daniel! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Apparently I'm not the only person on the planet who enjoys the strange satisfying feeling one gets when doing something like this... Thank you for sharing! I love TH-cam!!
That montage was amazing! The ending was amazing! Those switches are amazing! Subscribed!
I know I'll never be disappointed when your videos show up in the subscription feed! Fun video, and loving that little vise too!
Cheers man! Much appreciated! 🙂
Very good tutorial about switches and how to refurbish them. I have been doing just that for a longtime myself. A little disassembly and cleaning and most of the time they will work exactly like new again. Since some times if is hard to find an exact replacement that fits the original mounting hole and electrical connections, it saves the day to refurbish them. Thumbs Up!
Anything that involves restoration , I’m in .....you Sr are an artist......👍🏻 and subscribed .
Great video! Very well recorded and edited, some humor, good usefull tips and of course a lovely subject. Again, great stuff, well done!
This was excellent instructions!
This video is amazing, thank you for all of your hard work.
Very interesting! I had no idea anyone was doing this! I do know, that some of these old switches are of great quality. Thanks for the video.
I was so glad to find this video. One of the toggle switches is identical to one I have that broke and I am trying to repair. The switch that you tip over at 3:50 is the one. You later (at 9:42) use the super glue and baking soda method to fix the housing with some PCB. When my switch broke It fell apart and I did not see how the spring and inside assembly went together. So while I can repair the housing, I do not know how to assemble it after. I have tried to locate a modern replacement for it but they are all too big to fit in the space it needs to go (inside by 50 year old Rockwell wood router tool.) It would be so great if you could post a video or even a photo of how the spring and pivot go back together. I would be so grateful.
Well produced video! : ) Great information for refurbishing instead of buying new. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I knew that I'd enjoy this but never thought I'd enjoy it as much as I did. The editing, effects, storytelling, project, AUTOSOL!, sanding tip, the ending... I could go on but I think I'm just going to watch it again!
Haha! Glad you enjoyed it!
Who would have thought watching a video of restoring switches could be that interesting. You got me hooked! Nice work and awesome editing quality! 🙌
Those old switches are very good looking, never thought of that before.
Oh absolutely! The one that I based my logo (and T-shirt design, and tattoo) of it probably the prettiest switch I’ve ever come across. Only problem is I can never use it in a project.
I picked up a home ultrasonic jewelry cleaner at a yard sale a couple of years ago. Small tank, guessing 6 oz/200ml. Terrific for cleaning small parts. Hot water and a little bit of laundry detergent and let them go for a few minutes. (Laundry cleaner because the things I clean have a lot of skin oil and dead skin cells gumming them up, and that's what laundry soap is designed to go after.) Also: Great to see unique old parts made useful again.
When using wire brush attachments on a Dremel, or any rotary tool for that matter, you should keep the RPMs really low. Those little wire brush attachments have a max RPM limit. I forget the exact number, but it's low- like, less than half, if not a quarter, of the max speed. When that max RPM is exceeded, it causes the bristles to fly out and stab you. Keeping the RPM low, although takes a bit more time, will definitely extend the lifetime of the brush and you'll get a lot fewer wire bristles to the hands and face.
It also depends on what you're using it on. When you work over edges rather than on smooth surfaces, the bristles wear out a lot more quickly.
You only get so much bending out of a piece of metal before it breaks. I suppose slower it seems like longer but sooner or later it's going to break.
@@SwitchAndLever , if you can find an old-fashioned motorized Draftsmans's eraser, the AC-powered kind with a hollow center that takes 8" long, 1/4" diameter eraser rods, you will be amazed at how you managed to live without one. Great for polishing and removing tarnish. The hard part is finding eraser rods of the proper abrasiveness that havent dried up and gotten brittle....
Throwing in some comedies make this video more entertaining 😂😀
This is the first video of yours that I've watched and I loved it! The ending was fantastic! :)
Aside from potential violations of international treaties, nice video.
Awesome Video Bro!! Great editing too!
Cheers man, I appreciate it!
I recently fixed the switch for my old heat gun. No replacement avail available, and it was a nonstandard design. Disassembled, cleaned burnt contacts, and it works perfectly now
next up: restoring vintage nintendo switches
Unless my own breaks that’s not likely to happen. 😄
man what
You should use the last bit as a clip in a video
You can get shields for the dremel to stop bristles going in your face or cutting disks exploding in it either. A 3D Printer allows you to make custom or modify existing shields.
Lever switch should be used to switch on a Jacobs ladder for retro feeling of madness.
I've been waiting for this video since I found your channel.
That was great Daniel! Thanks! Nice to see what you have to go through in filming to get a quality video...once again excellent editing and fun presentation. I've restored a lot of them myself and en-joy the process. What is amazing to me is the tremendous differences in mechanism even for similar looking switches. One day I might research patents pertaining to switch mechanism...mind blowing I'm sure. Small tip on the plastic polish is a product called PlastX from Meguiar's...best I've ever use with power or by hand. Nice control box Too! Hat Tip!
Oh indeed! One may think that they'll all be almost identical, but they very much is not. One thing is certain though, and the whole reason why restoring these old switches is worth it, newly made switches just don't have the same quality as the old ones, unless you buy ones that cost like $30 a pop and are actually not made in a Chinese factory.
This is easily one of my absolute favorite videos on TH-cam
Yeah, but...that Baby Shark video though?
RFLMAOOOO! You're a total riot to watch and listen to! Loved it 👌👏👏💯
Great video.
Great video. I don't think I'll ever restore any toggle switches but it is still very interesting. Great tips on working with plastic: grafting in a piece and using superglue and baking soda and using masking tape to avoid sanding at 11:56 . Your use of the English language is excellent !!! Thank you for posting.
10/10 for the music and transitions on the montage.
Great vid!
Cheers!
That intro is sooo satisfying
Video editing masterclass :)
I wish someone would make a cologne that used WD-40 as a base.
They do, it's called WD-40. Also a good deodorant and mouth wash.
Ramen (ref)... hahahhhahah. You are a master of humor that I greatly enjoy. Thank you.
Before using any switches, toggles being one type, I check all contacts with a meter. If the contact resistance is high, over 0.1 ohms, vigorously (rapidly) work the switch through its motions about 20 twenty times then re-check the contacts. This is often all that is needed to restore the contacts when they are tarnished after sitting idle for a while.
About checking switch contacts, realize that checking them with a DVM or LED is only checking them at very low currents so their behavior at higher currents cannot be predicted when testing them this way.
A better method would be to pass a known current such as 1 amp through the switch contacts and measuring the voltage across the closed contact.
For example, 0.5 ohms resistance at one amp current will cause a voltage drop of 1/2 volts across the contacts. At 10 amps you lose 5 volts, etc.
FYI I just looked up the contact resistance specs for five manufacturers' toggle switches. About 20-25 milliohms was typical, one type was listed at 10 milliohms nominal, 50 milliohms max.
Damn that workshop will haunt my dreams. I mean you're living the dream right there.
And with all these tools, he make totally unprofessional worthless repairs... Good job!
@@peternagy2552 you mean just like you, with the power of a modern electronic device literally more capable than the computers that put man on the moon, you choose to make worthless comments like that? Good job!
Nice!!!
Great now I’m looking for old switches.
Excellent restauration project. Can you please add a link to the black/yellow boxes you use? They‘re kind o‘ cool.
They were just bought from a random local hardware store. No clue what the brand is, but I know Stanley has similar ones.
Epic intro!
The contact cleaner likely leaves a thin dielectric film, but I would out-right pack the switches with dielectric grease. In the USA you can buy it at any auto parts store. They usually sell it as "bulb grease" to help with corrosion and oxidation on headlight connections but it's also used on car battery terminals. Somehow it also works wonders when you already have corrosion and oxidation.
Basically, it will displace air and water while promoting conductivity without shorting the switch out. It will also inhibit arcing so you don't get pitting on the internal contacts. Try it!
No. I would not pack these switches with any sort of grease, simply because of two things, they never come packed with grease from the manufacturer, and in cases of switches with less contact force it may act as an insulator making the reliability of the switch less.
The contact cleaner probably does not leave a thin dielectric film, unless specifically specified, as they tend to be advertised that they do not leave any residue. Basically, looking at the contents it's all solvents and pressurized air, which should all evaporate over time.
@@SwitchAndLever DeoxIT contact cleaner specifically says that it leaves a coating to resist oxidation/corrosion and promote conductivity, which sounds exactly like what dielectric grease is for. It would definitely not act as an insulator! I've seen this stuff perform magic. I'd have contacts with no continuity no matter how many times I cycled the connection and then a little bit of dielectric grease made it good as new... not to mention all the intermittent headlight connections I've seen totally restored with the stuff.
First time was a coworker who had me look at his mid-'90s Acer Aspire with no video. We verified that the monitor itself was fine and that other monitors also had no video in his machine. I was a teenager who had just got his A+ certification for microcomputer repair, so I wasn't exactly familiar with board-level repairs. I suggested he buy a video card or replace the computer since it was obsolete. I took the opportunity to rant about how Acer should not be integrating video cards for exactly that reason. The guy moonlighted at an auto-parts store and the next time I saw him he had it fully working. I was amazed! It was working with every monitor and cable we threw at it and all it took was a bit of dielectric "bulb grease" transferred between the pins.
I've used it to restore countless switches since, from the notorious power switch on Atari 7800 consoles to relays inside an air conditioner to a PSone with black gunk all inside the power switch (no continuity at all before restoration). Works great and performed wonders in potentiometers too though they make a dielectric grease specifically for scratchy volume knobs and such ("FaderLube," from the makers of DeoxIT contact cleaner).
@@emmettturner9452 yes, it is what dielectric grease is for, but having dielectric grease inbetween contacts which should make proper electrical contact can lead to intermittent connection. It's different when we are talking something solid like a battery connection on a car battery, or big beefy plugs and sockets with lots of contact surface between parts, and something like a small toggle switch with less surface and far less connection force. Dielectric grease can cause more issues than it helps in that situation.
DeOxit is but one type of contact cleaner, and coincidentally they market themselves as "more than a contact cleaner" hinting that it's not just solvents like isopropyl alcohol inside. Also, a thin coating after evaporation and a thick coating of dielectric grease (in the case of packing a switch) has quite different effects on the operation of the switch. Dielectric grease is not specifically for "promoting conductivity", but rather the opposite. It's to lubricate components while keeping them electrically isolated from each other, of course with enough force (like when you attach a contact together) you displace that grease allowing the metal surfaces to connect.
There are many contact cleaners on the market, with different contents, but most of which I've come across have been advertised as not leaving any residue. In the case of the FaderLube it's essentially a contact cleaner with a couple of percent of proprietary lube. It's mainly just naphtha though, which cleans and gets rid of gunk from the surfaces in the pots.
@@SwitchAndLever The reason DeoxIT leaves a thin coating (as opposed to a thick) is because it's sprayed on with a solvent. I typically wipe off dielectric grease and leave a similarly thin coat. The point of packing a switch is to displace contaminants and prevent unwanted intrusion in the future.
Again, this stuff has worked miracles for me. I wouldn't glob it in a videogame cartridge connector or anything like that because it would retain dust, debris, and other contaminants in the connection as you cycle various cartridges in and out, but I have done some testing and it can totally restore the most unreliable connections that otherwise don't restore with any amount of simple cleaning, boiling, scrubbing, etc. That said, all contacts in a switch are mostly enclosed and the grease would not be retaining contaminants introduced from outside contacts in the course of normal use. That means the concern I have with using it in a cartridge connector doesn't apply at all in a switch. Indeed, packing the switch will keep contaminants limited to the outer areas with exposed grease while the contacts inside remain clean and functional. It's very likely that these switches never would have degraded if they had this from the start.
Nothing like seeing it for yourself: I suggest you experiment the next time you see a corroded connection. Try adding some bulb grease without even cleaning. You will typically see a substantial improvement if not seemingly restored to 100%. I don't know how since, as you say, it insulates... but it totally promotes conductivity at the same time and the effect is more drastic than simply preventing corrosion/oxidation, since it works with existing corrosion/oxidation in place.
For cleaning corroded/pitted contacts, I'd like to suggest an ultrasonic cleaner. These use cavitation to create microscopic bubbles in every microscopic nook and cranny to free up contaminants and clean even the most stubborn and most deeply embedded contaminants.
@@emmettturner9452 yes, as I wrote, DeOxit uses naphtha as it's main ingredient, which is responsible for dissolving and dislodging things like grease, oil and general grime. You may have had luck with using grease, that does not however mean it is universally good. I will not be packing a switch for the reasons I have already mentioned. If they were supposed to be packed with grease then the manufacturers would have done it.
While ultrasonic cleaners are great I would never use it on a switch without taking it apart and cleaning the parts individually, simply because even though the cleaner will dislodge internal dirt and grime because there are limited ways to drain the switch of liquid and the dirt would still remain inside the switch and would likely be a problem again down the line. Further it would be impossible to diagnose if there are other issues without physically observing the contacts. They may be pitted and broken from arcing, and while the ultrasonic cleaner may get the switch to work again it would only be a temporary measure before it would fail again.
Great cinematography ! 👍
This was a project that would have benefited from an ultrasonic cleaner.
Absolutely! It’s up there on my list of future things to get!
For the switches that you could not get apart, I would recommend using a rustremover in an ultrasonic cleaner
While I think an ultrasonic cleaner is a great idea for the individual parts, I still wouldn't use it on a switch with all the parts assembled simply because it would be impossible to diagnose any other issues (like worn out contact surfaces due to internal arcing for instance) as well as issues with getting the liquid out of the switch again.
Ugh, that hand vise! It was almost mine!
Haha! Should we do split custody of it? 😄
What grease would you advise for stiff old brass rocker light switches?
Leaving the compound on is good, it protects the metal from further corrosion
What compound, the polishing compound? If so, no, it's full of grit and polished off metal particles and it definitely should be wiped/washed off as it can increase wear on the switch, especially if it makes it inside.
@@SwitchAndLever really? On the box it says that after applying u should buff it out so most of the residue will come off and leave a layer of wax protecting from further corrosion but I agree it's probably still got grit that will damage the switch
On surfaces which you can easily wipe off I’m sure that’s a decent idea. In books and crannies, like what goes into the switch parts I couldn’t take apart, as well as into the threads, it definitely needs to be flushed out though as one can’t really get in there to wipe. Also helps to get the built up remnants of polishing compound out of the knurls on the nuts. If you are worried about corrosion resistance you can always treat them with something like WD40 afterwards.
I love the editing and humor in your videos. Plus the projects are always cool!
And leaving the repair visible is a fun touch. Gives things some character, a story to tell.
Only if it’s visible though, which when installed it won’t be. I do enjoy highlighting repairs though, like those Japanese bowls repaired with gold.
To make your Dremel wire wheels last longer, put some CA glue (super glue) at the base of the wires where they are pressed in between the flanges. The wires will stay in the wheel much longer.
That’s a great tip!
@@SwitchAndLever yeah but it won't really save the brushes. The wires break due to metal fatigue. They just get bent back and forth in use until like a bent paperclip they eventually break.
@@1pcfred I know I'm like ten months late on this, but I can confirm that the tip given by Rick works great. It would appear that much of the metal fatigue happens where it's clamped in the flange, which the glue kind of acts like stress relief and, well, glue. The wire wheel easily lasts at least twice as long, if not longer.
@@SwitchAndLever twice as long is like getting a free wheel then. That's pretty amazing. Now I need to find a way to get CA glue to last. Every time I go to use the stuff it is all hardened up on me. I'm more of an epoxy kind of a guy here. AB epoxy I can keep around. That CA glue after I open it up I might as well just throw it away. It is never any good when I go to try to use it again.
Brass wirebrush can also do coating on base metal :)
Indeed, which it did to some degree, though most was cleaned off when polishing.
Great video! Did you get the micromesh from a Swedish store or from abroad/ebay? :)
You can find it both on Amazon and eBay.
Great ending! haha.
When working on switches with ball bearings and springs, I use a plastic zip lock bag over the work to keep from losing bearings or springs. Dropping one and trying to find one isn't fun.
Now I feel dumb for throwing away some very old switches ..I do have a ceramic blade type switch with the screw in fuses used way back in old houses that I restored ....It is a scary looking thing knowing that 120 volts are going through all the exposed brass parts
How does the pull switch work?
Ahhhh Dat *CLICK* GG Dude
Seems to only make sense for switches (like the bakolite ones) where you can't find equivalents in production anymore. But for plain round end ones, seems like a bit much effort where you can still find something that matches and just buy some since they shouldn't be that expensive. Really only worth the effort for restoring vintage gear, or having that particular look.
Also plain white toothpaste can clean up some plastics. But such polishing may be better done by hand.
And some metals (like aluminum or brass) may still be marred and scratched by brass wire wheels. But nylon bristle wheels are common enough too and the way to go in those cases.
Switches that have the quality of vintage switches simply aren’t cheap. You can buy Chinese made switches that look the part all day long, but the tactile feeling of them is crap. There are companies, like Caleco for instance, that makes switches still in Europe. There are also manufacturers which specialize in guitar equipment that make similar high end switches. Neither option is cheap, believe me.
Also, you would be very hard pressed to find any aluminium in old switches like this, especially in combination with steel. Galvanic corrosion is a real problem and not something you’d want to occur in an electrical switch.
@@SwitchAndLever folks not understanding what you're trying to tell them is why we're doomed.
@@SwitchAndLever , the other commenter needs reminding that cheap Chinese switches will typically have Metric-dimension bushings and metric threads, and they may not fit well into a piece of equipment that originally had an American made switch , even if you use some kind of sleeve or bushing to make them "fit." I repair old switches pretty regularly in my day job in an audio-equipment repair shop. The real "fun" happens when we have to disassemble and repair potentiometers and, especially, slide faders, where the metal contact "fingers" break free from the nylon carrying pieces.
I'm curious what those custom boards are for.
How did this simple switches restoring video turned into a Keter-class event at the end... 😨
Jokes aside, it's a great pleasure to watch how it's done!
How? With five switches and a mad non-descript scientist of course!
Here I thought I was the only idiot that ever tried to repair old switches. Those looked like pretty nice ones so worth the effort.
Same here!
@@revoxjazz8317 heh thanks for making me feel not so alone.
Why do you have so many Italian products? Do you live in Italy?
put some CA glue in the rotor brush to help hold the bristles in
I would have re added rivets to make it original.
Also did you do the lights with an Arduino at the end of so can you release the code
There is literally no benefit to reriveting it, and if it would ever need servicing in the future would just add further issues opening it up again. Plenty of switches like these are also screwed together. The one which I based my logo and tattoo on for instance is screwed together.
Yes, it's Arduino, but it's literally so simple code that anyone with the tiniest experience with Arduino can figure it out. It's just the LED example coupled with the button example, with a switch case, some delays and scaled to work on five switches and LEDs.
@@SwitchAndLever ok cool I could probs do it then I'm currently learning about analog tech and could eventually do it with ic chips and I have some old round bakelite switches like the ones in old war bunkers and I also have an old British fuse box made from Bakelite and wood. Nice video now I know how to polish metal properly as well and know that those bristles won't damage or scratch the metal
Oh snap, I didn’t know you were in Antonio Stark, aka Giaco Whatever’s, factory.
Are those black Q-tips a specialty thing, or are all Q-tips black where you are?
How to fix a toggle switch that has a lot of play in it and is lose and jiggles? The switch is mounted fine but what i the lever or stem or whatever wiggles around? How do you fix this?
switches that have the screw terminals electrically connecting to the inside mechanism only by rivets are junk
Are you @ Giaco's?
And finally the big bang😁😁😁😁😁LOL😂😂😂😂
Can you find a way to restore the original rivets? Can we buy new rivets somewhere?
Well, those rivets were likely set in a press with a jig to hold the switch together as the rivets were set. You could make custom rivets from aluminium or brass rod or tube, but frankly it wouldn’t offer anything better than what I have done here.
@@SwitchAndLever I do the same thing and replace rivets with screws. Never know when you want to go back into the switch.
9:58 Chinese Soup Can fix everything, even vintage switches!
A channel for everything I tell you
A shot in the dark. Has anyone ever converted a lever switch to a 3way toggle. Not concerned about the wiring but more about aesthetics. Maybe a poker chip will cover
How do u tight the toggle if its loose
I once had a pimple under my jaw. One day I popped it and a wire came out from one of those dremel wheels.
Michael O, be sure to wear eye protection when using those Dremel wire wheels!
he's back!
p.s I don't remember you being italian
I’m not Italian 🙂
@@SwitchAndLever full of Italian goods on your video
@@francis8062 I know, but that still doesn't make me Italian.
Hey!🤔 Anyone dedicated enough to Tattoo his Passion on His Forearm Deserves a Like & Subscribe! Honestly, Your Vids are very Informative & Just Plain Awesome. Good Job! 👍😉🇨🇦
When u 1st starting brushing clean the metal see how the ball toggle was moving a little that's what mines doing and I'm trying to figure out how to tighten it but everyone just shows switching toggles smh a brand new 800 dollar guitar and I have to learn to be a luthier because action , neck , pickups and toggle switch all off bullshit. Thats what I get for buying online during a pandemic.
Skitbra!
Nice video.
Next time, would you consider turning down the music, a lot?
I do like how you did that speed up portion.
The music is already turned down a lot, a full 20db lower than the narration and other sounds. If you’re having issues hearing what I’m saying you can always turn on the subtitles.
wow neat so cool
Didn't those switches have some dielectric grease in them originally?
No new switches I've opened have ever had any dielectric grease in them, so it's doubtful these had either. You don't really want any grease on contact surfaces as it may act as an isolator making the switch work intermittently.
@@SwitchAndLever I've seen grease inside switches.
While there are lots of good ideas for restoring irreplaceable switches here (much appreciated) you wouldn't normally do this on a paid repair of a non-museum piece.
What do you mean "paid repair of a non-museum piece"?
@@SwitchAndLever Most of the switches you have shown are replaceable for under ten dollars. They function the same and are often made to look the same as the vintage part. I think your techniques are useful in cases where you have to have it working before a replacement can arrive and thank you for showing it but to do it because you can would be folly for someone in business to do when labor costs far outweigh the value of a new reproduction part. A museum piece would be a possible exception where the owner may want the original part at all cost but that is relatively rare. Usually they just want it to work properly.
If you can find high quality switches made in the west for under $10 I would love to hear where’re you shop. The point is not that you can replace these with similar looking but lower quality parts made in China.
I’m still confused about your business argument though. My point of view is if you can repair it you should repair it. The constantly buying new culture is a huge cause of why the planet is in the state it is, and why pollution is going rampant. The less we feed that behemoth and the sooner we relearn that things can be fixed the better.
So, I'd like to share a strange story here.. I used to have a bit of an alcohol problem and I'd often wake up to find that drunk-me had subscribed to many TH-cam channels about weird things or just new channels with bad quality videos that I'd felt bad for them. I'm now sober and much happier, but still sometkmes weird channels pop up with new videos.. This is the first one which is genuinely fascinating and I'm really glad that my idiot-drunk self subscribed me to this channel!
Well then I’m glad for the both of us! Congrats and great job at getting sober, and welcome to the channel! We are all friends here 😊
@@SwitchAndLever Thanks for the kindness! Look forward to seeing more of your content!
Hey even the Russian wasn't too horrible. Love the subtitle though.