Pro Climber vs Hardest V6: Can It Be Done?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ธ.ค. 2020
- This week, we saw one of our favourite TH-cam channels - BouderingBobats - release their video with them and Tom Randall trying what quickly became dubbed as "The hardest V6 in the world." Whether this is genuinely the hardest V6 ever (doubtful!) is yet to be seen but if the Bobats crew and Tom couldn't get it done after hours of trying, then it can't be that easy!
Enter, Orrin Coley who's a professional climber, GB climbing team and hardcore boulder specialist. Has he got what it takes? Can Orrin skills which blend both indoors and outdoors methods defeat this innocuous little V6?!
We had a lot of fun making this challenge and even more observing some great climbers trying to solve it.
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Orrin: What am I doing? I don't need to chalk up for this toe catch
Magnus: Chalks up for bat hang
😂💛😂
That scene was funny as hell tho. Gotta lobe magnus
Magnus Midtbo would HATE THIS not keen on slabs but I think his "everyone is the same on slabs" phrase just got burnt.
Ah, V6 using the Tom's Basement grading scale
Exactly.... ;-)
@@LatticeTraining Where are the cracks...?
@@LatticeTraining You can tweak it now making pinches smaller and sharper then bounty it up 😉
Two guy's geeking out about each others skin. Only in the climbing world
Thats the interesting thing a none climber like myself finds.
E.g.. skin splits on thumbs due to the zinc covered steel as too thick and takes ages to heal. Saw about sanding with Magnus's sister so grows the same rate.
Now that's interesting skin care stuff.
Mostly this just makes me more impressed with how Jake did
Yeah he’s a great climber!
Jake might not be the strongest climber in the world, but his movement on slabs is just so consistently awesome.
If a national team climber who does font 8C can't do the first move on your boulder problem, it might not be V6 😂
It's V12 the first time you try it, but V6 after you've done it once.
@@13x EEEEXACTLY! :-D
@@13x Yeah it does look like that. One of those things if you're slightly off you'll fall but if your balace is exactly right for 15 moves in a row then it will feel like a warm-up
@@LatticeTraining So you're saying a v12-v13 climber can flash this SERIES of boulder problems? Who'se got Janja's phone number? Anyone....
Yeah, this doesn't quite look like a V6 to me. Looks like so much fun, though!
You know you've set an awesome boulder when a climber is so visibly happy after sending it :D
I think the hardest part about flowy dynamic movement style problems is getting over the fear of missing a step and smashing my shin or face into a volume. Especially since when I try them I tend to miss a step and smash my shin into a volume...
yeah the shins get smashed, you see how with comp climbers they always seem to have scabs on the shins. Because we havent been climbing indoors for a few Montag now, my shins are looking the least bashed sinced I started back climbing.
Shin guards for training ?
@@dave_h_8742 too bulky I bet
On my hard days as a joke I tell myself I'm not done till I'm bleeding and usually ends up that way anyway. Just go for it, usually just a scratch not a full on knock on your shin or head.
Come on get Pete and Magnus on it 😂🙈
Very exciting to watch you work your way through the problem. Really liked the bit where Orrin was trying to figure out where his imbalance was coming from on the last move. Just one of those takeaways from the video I can apply to my own climbs.
Thanks for the upload!
After seeing the Bobats video, I said I'd love to see a pro comp climber on it, and you did it! Absolutely brilliant setting and really fast progress on the problem by Orrin. Looking forward for more this type of videos!
I think what's so impressive here isn't just that he's strong as hell. His ability to adapt and replicate really specific and technical moves is what seperate him from most.
Yeeeeaa I was hoping you'd do a video on this. After I saw it at the Bobats :D
I gotta see magnus give this a go, I know he hates slabs so It will be perfect for him lol
The margins appear sooo thin on this. I can imagine the time it took to set this masterpiece. Well done!
Brilliant! That problem is some of the best indoor climbing content I’ve seen in a long time. Great stuff! Orrin is such a wonderful climber to watch.
Very cool to hear Orrin break down his thought process on the moves. Really helpful for me to understand how to approach certain movements & things to be mindful of when climbing!
That was so satisfying to watch! When the whole problem is linked together like that it looks so smooth and flowy! Great work guys
Great skills. Not just the send, but also the setting! Superb sequence!
The most satisfying indoor climbing vlog episode ever. 25 minutes to watch but I had an impression it was 3 minutes. Inspiring to see how good climbers figure out all those little details of body positions when jumping!
That's a V22 in my gym
Was this the regular “absolutely 8c at the minimum” until you do it and then it’s “no way any harder than 7a” setting?
This was awesome to watch!! This actually makes me psyched on slabs... who knew
Can't beat a good bit of slab!
This heel hook on the start looks so risky and yet you approach it so boldly. Truly nice technique!
Volume behind Tom's head at the start of the video makes him look like he's got a mullet 😂
Definitely has a bad haircut whatever way...
Orrin's such a beast. Loved it!
dude, watching this was 10/10. very satisfying to see someone finally solve it
This is the best yt video ever created.
Well done Orrin!!!
Jake will be fuming 😂
Surely need to get Shauna on this one?! Or Johnny! Should do each problem ten times, see how many times you get each one. Then you can calculate the probability of stringing them all together (very low lol).
This is such a good concept, I want to see it progress.
You should invite more climbers to try this and then go for v7 version
So satisfying to watch, well done Orren. Please invite Magnus after covid. Even if you have to put it back up. Do you think he would flash it? if not it would be so close in my opinion.
Can you get Janja, Tomoa or Jernej up to Sheffield so they can try to flash that thing?
Was surprised he said Chesterfield at the end.
You have got to keep this up! Make it a perma set.
Yes! Jake is still awesome tho. Very cool idea Lattice!
Cool new intro song !!
Would love to see Janja give this a go!
The ending has the same production value as Ondra's Silence 👍
I couldn't stop thinking "how is he doing this in Phantoms?" I own a pair and find them awful on volumes. But then he changed his shoes.
Yeah the Phantoms hate volumes!!! In fact I’ve found them better outdoor than indoor ?!
I actually really like them on volumes, find they work great to be honest. I changed to the Evolv Agro though as they are the ultimate toe hooking shoe and it made the last move toe hook easier! 😅
@@OrrinColey I'm the total opposite, I feel like I'm trying to iceskate uphill as soon as I touch a volume in them.
@@thomasturner649 same haha
@@thomasturner649 I've typically found they perform better indoors than out for me, especially on Volume / comp boulders. Which is odd considering they where designed for rock! However I haven't had the chance to use them on rock all that much this year to test them as much as I'd like 😔
Sick send!
This should be the only boulder in a bouldering comp lol
We need to see Magnus on this!!!
Correct me if I am wrong but would an extremely hard V6 constitute a V7? (or higher)
Tom: give the Performance cream from Rhino Skin Solutions a go (if you haven't already). It sounds as though your skin is similar to mine - permanently soft, always trending thin rather than tough (regardless of rock type being climbed). It's a mild enough anti-hydral that you can use it without fear of splits in finger-folds and it's just enough to usefully tip the skin-wear balance. It's not a magic bullet but I've found that I can productively tune my skin over the course of a few weeks.
If you watch his stuff he uses it
Looks fun n easy. Fav
should do £500 flash bounty.
Would gladly provide that! Maybe we should make it a thing??!
@@LatticeTraining has to be on the flash though.
The Cellar Principle - the route is high grade only until you complete it, after which it's rating goes down by a grade or two
That implies that this climb is now officially a v4 for some reason
That routesetting
Nice V13.
Awesome :)
Which shoes did he switch into?
5 v6s combine to form a v30?
I would be happy to do even 1 move on this
Yes Orrin, big up Leicester crew
Gang gang 🤙
Anyone know what trousers he's wearing?
Brilliant
I think it’s funny they described this as no strength and all techniques. I find that when I climb I use these types of routes toward the end of my session, for when I wanna keep climbing but my body is out of gas for “regular” climbs
I hate dyno/parkour style boulders but it’s great to see someone’s process at how to attack them.
Bestpartofthevideo
16:52 till 17:29
Should have asked him what he thought about the grade!!
awww comparing your hands :)
yep do this with my mates alot aswell, especially after a session, Its like 'how have your hands held up?' I have the same problem as orrin, dry tough skin, where one of my mates is like Tom, after a sesh his hands are torn up and bleeding out of the tips where I might have at most sore fingertips.
I don't think "That's too hard", i think "That's not fun" when looking at parkour jumping boulders.
flexibility and mobility is huge, do climbers focus on that ?
Most good athletes do..... too many climbers ignore it though! Especially those that spend a lot of time sat at desks....
9:05 how did he rotate
watching delicate balance moves on marginal holds triggered me so hard. I can't tell if I loved this or hated it
Be great to see Jonny Dawes on this
What did Orrin suggest for the grade after he finished it?
V5
@@LatticeTraining everything's hard until you do it right 😂
Tom training for the world cup now?
Have you tried it in reverse?
Yes.... feels nearly impossible in that direction!
@@LatticeTraining but V5 once done
It's weird watching someone who isn't Magnus
22:24 wait why don’t they use the super high holds ;)
They’re for other problems that got put back k up afterwards
Where's magnus ...
Great route and video but tbh the mic was driving me nuts. Too much breathing and scratchy cloth noises
Seems like he’s thinking to much about everything. Jake was just observing, trying and executing. Well both videos are edited so we don’t know how much time each person took to solve each individual move and the entire problem.
The most godforsaken traverse I've ever seen
Tip: Make it less like a presentation, cut more with smaller lines to say, make it flow more naturally. I couldn't possibly do what you're doing, and I enjoy your content, which is why I'm trying to offer my advice! =)
I actually liked this format a lot more: a lot more instructional, actually learnt stuff from seeing Orrin's learning process as opposed to a lot of entertainment-first videos out there! Just my two cents. (:
V6 yaa right 🤔🤯🤯
thunk
14:49
fun
It’s V8
22:07 So I take it, this does not count as dabbing? Why not?
You can call it what you like 😊
Thought dabbing was feet in an illegal place not bending down ON a hold for a chalk bag !
Sounds petty.
The most informative part was when they compared the wetness of their skin
maybe one or two of the moves are v6
anyone who can do it in under 5 full goes gets the cash bounty lol mmmm
I gues Grades sum up when steecked.
Yup, not easy! But kinda not hard!
@@LatticeTraining not physically, but mentally and there is also an element of endurance.
Looks cool would love to try it.
Isn't saying "the hardest V6" a bit inane? Isn't that like saying "the heaviest 5 kg weight"? Either it is V6 or it's harder than V6, it can't be both.
He’s fudging the grading here by thinking about each individual move which is not more than v6 in grade but obviously the grade is far worse.
It might be as a joke or a troll. I’m not sure which.
That doesn’t look too hard, just get a ladder.
Yeah V6 Suuuuuuure a pro cant even do the first move lol
Well more than that the setter, who does know the climb, still has a low probability of success on each move. They talk about how it's a v20 till you send it and then a v6, but if that's the case you'd expect the setter to maybe have an easier time lol
I have put off watching this video for nearly a month. I like watching Orrin. I like this problem from seeing it I think on Bobat. The problem is your videos are incredibly slow moving and drawn out. This didn't need to be 25 minutes long. I think you'll get a lot more views and subscribers if you edit down your videos more effectively. Your introductions are always brutally long and you don't really end up saying much. If your video is going to be 25 minutes long it should have more actual content.
Just a tip from an avid TH-cam viewer.
Thanks for the feedback, always appreciated!
@@LatticeTraining I apologize if I came off too critical. You guys are great. It's simply that as the average low attention TH-cam consumer, i think the format needs a tweak. It's interesting when you pause to discuss the problem. It's just not engaging. I appreciate you considering the feedback. Keep coming up with funky stuff.
Brilliant