Neal, appreciate you taking the time to share your build! What makes you stand out from the rest, is your willingness to listen to comments and if needed, make those adjustments. Nice work!
I don’t know yalls relationship but I can imagine your FIL enjoyed having you help him. I lost mine a few years ago and nothing made him happier than helping on a project like this. It’s those type of things that we don’t think about until they’re gone. Nice project! 🤙🏽
Also, it would save you a lot of time to pre drill all of the metal to the exact centers of your nailers. Just some things that i have learned over the years of doing things myself. nice video!
Thanks for the comment! I had heard that before and would definitely try it in the future. But on this one I might have been worried about squareness and straight purlins and wanted to make sure my holes hit the wood!
@@NealORussa It does save time but on projects where mistakes can't be made, and given the costs of metal these days, it's worth just going sheet by sheet:).
That screw hitting the lip is because that sheet should be on the bottom. The side with no lip and cut short goes on top to keep water out. That little extra dimple on the lip side is to keep water from wicking over the lap.
Thank you for the insight Charles! Someone else had previously mentioned that and that is a great point, I wish I would have known. I did update the description of this video after the first comment to point out my mistake and hopefully people can read that in addition to watching the video. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Great video series! I will be mimicking it for my pole barn, thanks for taking the time to make it and post it. I know how much more time it takes to do it.
Thanks terrel! Another commenter mentioned that as well and I agree and appreciate the information! I will add that to the video description! Thank you
Great to hear Mike! Good luck with your build. Do note one of the comments below, apparently i installed the roof sheeting the wrong way and the longer lip goes underneath not on top at each sheet joint. Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure if you get frost or not but 2 things I would change. Where the concrete is mushroomed at the top of the hole that would need to be smooth in my area and also where the 6x6 is bolted to the post, when the frost pushes the 6x6 up it is going to lift the 4x4 post.
Thanks for the comment Chris! Our frost line is 15" deep. The posts were close to 36" if I recall. I do see your point about lifting the posts with the mushroom top and the 6x6's. Thankfully we don't get too bad of freeze here. Lots of fence posts have similar concreted posts and no issues.
Wow thank you so much! I really enjoy helping people and sharing what I've learned. Good luck on your install and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions!
I was always shown start your tin the opposite way you did. (so the over lap will be away from the wind to the east or north for our area)So there's a less chance of the wind trying to pull your tin up.
When you place the screw on the sheet metal give the back of the drill small thump.. it will peirce the metal and reduce the potential for it to wobble.
Thanks for the comment and question John! I think you could place the screws on top of the rib, but I'd be concerned about smashing the rib down while trying to get a tight enough "squish" out of the rubber washer underneath the head of the screw. I think most buildings have the screw in the position i used.
Thanks for watching and the comment! Definitely a fun project, enjoy! Also if you read some of the comments below, you'll see the way I overlapped the sheets is actually incorrect. So make sure you put the long side on the bottom and the edge cut short through the rib on top.
Any recommendations on what to use for covering up the under side of the roof so that all the wood doesn't show?? Or would that create an issue with animals like birds trying to live in between?? Thanks!
Hmm I can't think of much besides using more metal sheeting and sticking I on the bottom. Like you mentioned it would have to be flashed and trimmed tight to keep birds out.
I believe the roof panels are overlapped improperly with fat lip over skinny lip. I think the skinny lip needs to be on top. Correct me if I am missing something.
I noticed that too, there is usually a special break in the metal (you’ll notice that the ribs aren’t shaped the same to sit perfectly on each other) that puts a small air gap called and “anti-siphon”, it prevents water from siphoning up over the rib and dripping under the roof
@@robs9574 metal roofing usually doesn’t need felt, as usually there isn’t any wood sheathing to really attach it to. Honestly before I knew about the anti-siphon bends in the metal I’ve put them on backwards and never had major problems, I’ll get a drip here and there if the conditions are right, but it was just a little shed so it didn’t matter to me
Yes. Alot of help!! I was gonna go 16 foot wide addition myself. Would you recommend 16 inches on center rafters and will 2 by 8s be strong enough to support snow in winter
Hey Handyman! I don't recall exactly, but i think it was 1' of fall over the 9' run. I don't forsee there being a lot of rain being blown up under the gutter, but if it does, it should just run down the wall of the original building, no big deal for what this will be used for. Thanks for watching!
I am looking to do the same thing. My question is when you attached the wood header to the building, what type of wood did you use? Pressure treated wood I'm told should never touch steel buildings, it will corrode. It looked like you used regular pine looking wood, but when you added the blocks for the ribs I can't tell what kind of wood that was. Can you let me in on your wood choice? And I'm also guessing you screwed into the metal purlin when attaching to the building. Sorry so many questions and thank you for the very helpful video
No problem on the questions! These were 5/4 deck boards. I'm pretty sure they were treated but they were pretty dry when we were working with them. We used the hss lag bolts to mount the header board to the 2x10 rafter header inside the building. Check out the part 2 of this video series on my channel and can see exactly how we did it.
Thank you for your response. I saw your part 2 video about attaching the header, unfortunately for us the interior doesn't have a wood header and the walls are closed up with drywall, so I'll be drilling into the metal purlins, might make it a bit more challenging, your way is much easier. Once again, thank you for the information. Most appreciated.
@@stephenwalegir8591 do you have a steel red iron building? Or like a galvanized steel carport type garage? If you're talking red iron and steel purlins I think you'll be fine going into the purlins with some large self tappers, but I would stick a lot of them in. If you have a carport type building I would maybe think about screwing into the vertical box tubing supports instead of the purlins.
@@NealORussa steel red iron building, actually our house. I was going to screw in the header to the building every 3-4 feet, figured it might need more than 2 screws each attachment point. I was just thrown about the type of wood to use. I was considering using cypress for the blocks attached to the header. Thank you again
@@stephenwalegir8591 I'd use treated wood and if your nervous about the metal contact put a thin sheet of rubber between or even a sheet of thin hdpe cutting board. We have a bunch of cutting board sheets that are probably 1/32" thick and I often cut them up for projects when my wife isn't looking.
Awesome Series!!! Any clue to the name of the Gutter Guards? Those look awesome and have big holes for water. Thanks for taking the time to video and educate.
Thanks so much for the comment! Honestly I'm not sure what the costs were. It was for my father in law, he had some of the wood and this was also around covid pricing fluctuations. I'd imagine he spent less than 1000.
Very clear demonstration, thanks for sharing. What is the separation distances of A) the rafters and the separation distance of B) the 4x2 wood which you screw the metal sheet onto ? My shed is 18ft wide so using 9x2 inch rafters
Okay? When you put the header board with the spacer on the barn side, I didn’t see you use any weather striping just wondering if that’s something that could be added ? I like the job you did and I am looking to do that same thing to my pole barn I was told that the siding had to be cut??
Larry, you are correct we didnt use any weather stripping, only the HSS screws went through the siding. Since our lean to roof was placed just under the gutter, we were not worried about much water running down that sidewall. If you do not have a gutter, or your lean to roof is a ways below the gutter, it may be better to add a steel drip cap above the roof, which would need to be installed underneath the top layer of wall sheeting, which means the wall sheeting would need to be cut horizontally along the length of the building.
Thanks for the comments Yes you could but the outside edge would be lower. Most people go with a flatter lean to because the eave of the building is already 9-10' and they don't want to be only 5-6' tall with a 4:12 pitch at the end.
So you just tucked the metal under the gutter. Basically, with no flashing , I'm just curious: Wouldn't this leak. Rain can blow all directions. Seems like maybe better to tuck this roof under the old roof??? Any experts reading comments. ?? What do you think
True, rain could blow up under the gutter. But the exterior of the building is still completely in tact. If that rain blew up under the gutter, some water would just run down the outside sheet of the building. Since this is an open lean-to anyways, it doesnt really matter, if rain was blowing that way it will blow under the lean to as well. If this was an enclosed lean-to and needed to be raintight, some other methods should be used.
@Neal O'Russa thanks. I'm getting ready to do something like this, but it will be enclosed. See your point.. Wonder if a good way to seal without cutting siding.
@@CRsolar if you don't have gutters and the lean to panel ribs are the same as the roof panel ribs, then slip the new panel right under the existing roof. Could run a bead of flashing sealant between the two as well before inserting the new sheet.
@Neal O'Russa yes this is what I was thinking. But it's a bit high and only wanted a 1 story addition. Basically, I was wondering. if there is a good method butting up another roof to an existing metal R panel without cutting and flashing. Like this video.did. and I understand how they don't care. But my addition isn't a car port . So don't want it to leak.. plus, inside is spray foamed and finished. Some wouldn't be easy to cut flashing in. Was thinking maybe I could put a second R panel over the top?? Maybe
Nice Job, On installing the header board to the building what were you anchoring too? was there a beam already installed on the inside of the building ? Mine has insulation so I am unsure of where the beams are. thanks
Thanks Shawn! Yes behind the metal sheet there is a 2x10 header board that the roof trusses for the main building sit on. You would want to double check what you have there before doing this, but most have an outer header there to screw into.
Jake, i honestly have no idea but I can ask my father in law. He had some of the lumber laying around from a previous project, so the number may not be complete. Also, as I'm sure you know lumber and metal prices are all over the place right now!!
I have a question I like what you did but my question is why didn’t you cut the wall on the pole barn and build directly on the side header board of the inside barn
I’m wondering (it’s been about a year) have you seen any kind of issues with putting the ledger over the sheeting wall with the spacers at the top underneath the rain gutters ? I AM thinking of doing just that same type of project that way
Great video! I know it’s not the subject of the video, but any idea what type of gutters and gutter guards those are on the main pole barn? I’m having a hard time figuring out how to hang gutters on my building. I have no eaves or soffit to speak of.
Not sure about that building but I had gutters added onto my pole barns without eaves or soffit. It's just standard commercial 5" gutter with 3x4 downspouts. They hung it just under the roof sheeting. It's screwed to the header board the trusses sit on. On one of my buildings I had to trim my roof sheeting about 2" because it was laid kinda long and overshooting the gutter in hard rains.
@@NealORussa thank you! Very helpful. My roof barely overhangs at all (unfortunately) so hopefully no cuts needed but thank you for being so generous with your time and knowledge. I saved all 3 of this video series. Really well done.
@@noraendzel no problem! Even barely any overhang you could run your gutter right underneath it and it will shoot off into it. I prefer no overhangs on pole barns. No need for it really and saves a little money and easier to build.
Hey thanks for the comment. Not sure I understand the question. I think we just pitched it 1' down over the 9' length. Really just needs to shed water.
When sheeting I put minimal screws in until all sheets are up. then put the rest in. Each builder has different methods. Nothing wrong with this method.
Thank you for the insight! Someone else had previously mentioned that and that is a great point, I wish I would have known. I did update the description of this video after the first comment to point out my mistake and hopefully people can read that in addition to watching the video. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Hey Daniel, the screws are #10 pole barn screws. I think for this we used 1", maybe 1.25" long? A 2x4 is only 1.5" thick, so you dont want anything longer than 1.25".
Hey there, we didn't use any flashing on this lean to section because the roof panels are positioned up tight underneath the gutter. I'd say any water that is blown up the lean to slope and under the gutter will just have to run down the outside of the existing building wall.
Thanks for the comment and note! Some others have mentioned that as well and I noted the correct overlap in the video description. Live & learn, thanks again for watching
Hey B! No with the purlins 2' on center the metal sheeting doesn't bend, especially once it's screwed down. Before I screw it down I try to keep my weight or steps close to the purlins but not always possible.
@@Eastbaypisces You order the sheets in whatever length you want from the supplier and they are always 3' wide. So for example you would order a 20, 13' long sheets to cover a 60'x13' area.
@@eithanlong1355 thanks for the comment. Yes you are correct I have tried to state this error in the video description. Appreciate you watching and the knowledge!
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
Neal, appreciate you taking the time to share your build! What makes you stand out from the rest, is your willingness to listen to comments and if needed, make those adjustments. Nice work!
Thank you so much for the comment! I'm always ears to listen and learn. Appreciate you watching and commenting!
Great video series on the lean-to
Just what I needed as I was looking for ideas to attach a leger board to the metal siding behind 3/4 ribs
Thanks 👍👍
Thanks for the comment! It's been holding up great! I highly recommend those hss structural screws.
I will definitely use them
Thanks again 👍
I will definitely use them
Thanks again 👍
Always nice to see a DIY video on TH-cam with someone intelligent explaining it all. Very well done- both in video and in the work you did.
Thanks so much for the comment!
I don’t know yalls relationship but I can imagine your FIL enjoyed having you help him. I lost mine a few years ago and nothing made him happier than helping on a project like this. It’s those type of things that we don’t think
about until they’re gone. Nice project! 🤙🏽
Thanks for the comment and sorry for your loss. We get along great and work together on a lot of projects.
Very nice. Makes a huge difference with good help. Getting up and down sux. Nice job
Thanks for the comment! Yes always good to have some experienced help!
Also, it would save you a lot of time to pre drill all of the metal to the exact centers of your nailers. Just some things that i have learned over the years of doing things myself. nice video!
Thanks for the comment! I had heard that before and would definitely try it in the future. But on this one I might have been worried about squareness and straight purlins and wanted to make sure my holes hit the wood!
@@NealORussa It does save time but on projects where mistakes can't be made, and given the costs of metal these days, it's worth just going sheet by sheet:).
Thanks this was a good videos showing a lot of the little details it will help me out when I do mine
Glad I could help! Good luck on your build and thanks for watching!
That screw hitting the lip is because that sheet should be on the bottom. The side with no lip and cut short goes on top to keep water out. That little extra dimple on the lip side is to keep water from wicking over the lap.
Thank you for the insight Charles! Someone else had previously mentioned that and that is a great point, I wish I would have known. I did update the description of this video after the first comment to point out my mistake and hopefully people can read that in addition to watching the video. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Great video series! I will be mimicking it for my pole barn, thanks for taking the time to make it and post it. I know how much more time it takes to do it.
Thank you foe the comment! Good luck on your build!
Great series of videos!
Thanks moe! Appreciate the comment. The building has been doing great for my father in law!
Actually the edge with the lip is the underlip and has the anti-siphon rib so it is installed improperly here... There is a video on this also.
Thanks terrel! Another commenter mentioned that as well and I agree and appreciate the information! I will add that to the video description! Thank you
very nice work gentlemen..
Thanks for the comment!
Exactly what I'm planning to do and your video filled gaps in knowledge I needed. Thanks.
Great to hear Mike! Good luck with your build. Do note one of the comments below, apparently i installed the roof sheeting the wrong way and the longer lip goes underneath not on top at each sheet joint. Thanks for watching!
Great Job!
Thank you very much for the comment!
I'm not sure if you get frost or not but 2 things I would change. Where the concrete is mushroomed at the top of the hole that would need to be smooth in my area and also where the 6x6 is bolted to the post, when the frost pushes the 6x6 up it is going to lift the 4x4 post.
Thanks for the comment Chris! Our frost line is 15" deep. The posts were close to 36" if I recall. I do see your point about lifting the posts with the mushroom top and the 6x6's. Thankfully we don't get too bad of freeze here. Lots of fence posts have similar concreted posts and no issues.
Found you through your solar videos, working through my own install now. Your videos are crazy helpful, thank you!
Wow thank you so much! I really enjoy helping people and sharing what I've learned. Good luck on your install and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions!
I was always shown start your tin the opposite way you did. (so the over lap will be away from the wind to the east or north for our area)So there's a less chance of the wind trying to pull your tin up.
Yes that's correct. It should be installed the other way with the small lip on top.
Outstanding video!
Thank you very much for the comment! Subscribe to follow for more videos!
When you place the screw on the sheet metal give the back of the drill small thump.. it will peirce the metal and reduce the potential for it to wobble.
Great tip! Will remember that for future projects!
Looks good guys. Can you put the roof screws in on the higher ridge of the tin. Instead of the flat part.. I think that would reduce water leaks.
Thanks for the comment and question John! I think you could place the screws on top of the rib, but I'd be concerned about smashing the rib down while trying to get a tight enough "squish" out of the rubber washer underneath the head of the screw. I think most buildings have the screw in the position i used.
Screws on top rib, less likely for heads to dam up leaves and debris and cause leaks.
No!
Nice job
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for showing me how I need to do mine exactly how I will good job
Thanks for watching and the comment! Definitely a fun project, enjoy! Also if you read some of the comments below, you'll see the way I overlapped the sheets is actually incorrect. So make sure you put the long side on the bottom and the edge cut short through the rib on top.
Any recommendations on what to use for covering up the under side of the roof so that all the wood doesn't show?? Or would that create an issue with animals like birds trying to live in between?? Thanks!
Hmm I can't think of much besides using more metal sheeting and sticking I on the bottom. Like you mentioned it would have to be flashed and trimmed tight to keep birds out.
I believe the roof panels are overlapped improperly with fat lip over skinny lip. I think the skinny lip needs to be on top. Correct me if I am missing something.
You are correct! Someone else pointed that out early on when i posted the video and i made that note in the video's description. Thank you!
Good Job .Thank you.
Thanks for the comment Mike!
Looks good but the lapping is not correct, the short leg goes over the long leg when lapping hope that helps
That's a good point. I could see that long lap holding water against the rib. Thank you!
I noticed that too, there is usually a special break in the metal (you’ll notice that the ribs aren’t shaped the same to sit perfectly on each other) that puts a small air gap called and “anti-siphon”, it prevents water from siphoning up over the rib and dripping under the roof
@@regalsCMF so is that why no felt was required?
@@robs9574 metal roofing usually doesn’t need felt, as usually there isn’t any wood sheathing to really attach it to. Honestly before I knew about the anti-siphon bends in the metal I’ve put them on backwards and never had major problems, I’ll get a drip here and there if the conditions are right, but it was just a little shed so it didn’t matter to me
Yep, but it's just a lean-to, so meh. The wind will carry more water under than his backwards lapping
Yes. Alot of help!! I was gonna go 16 foot wide addition myself. Would you recommend 16 inches on center rafters and will 2 by 8s be strong enough to support snow in winter
couple of questions: What was your roof pitch? You don't care about water blowing back up under the gutter and running down?
Hey Handyman! I don't recall exactly, but i think it was 1' of fall over the 9' run. I don't forsee there being a lot of rain being blown up under the gutter, but if it does, it should just run down the wall of the original building, no big deal for what this will be used for. Thanks for watching!
I am looking to do the same thing. My question is when you attached the wood header to the building, what type of wood did you use? Pressure treated wood I'm told should never touch steel buildings, it will corrode. It looked like you used regular pine looking wood, but when you added the blocks for the ribs I can't tell what kind of wood that was. Can you let me in on your wood choice? And I'm also guessing you screwed into the metal purlin when attaching to the building. Sorry so many questions and thank you for the very helpful video
No problem on the questions! These were 5/4 deck boards. I'm pretty sure they were treated but they were pretty dry when we were working with them. We used the hss lag bolts to mount the header board to the 2x10 rafter header inside the building. Check out the part 2 of this video series on my channel and can see exactly how we did it.
Thank you for your response. I saw your part 2 video about attaching the header, unfortunately for us the interior doesn't have a wood header and the walls are closed up with drywall, so I'll be drilling into the metal purlins, might make it a bit more challenging, your way is much easier. Once again, thank you for the information. Most appreciated.
@@stephenwalegir8591 do you have a steel red iron building? Or like a galvanized steel carport type garage? If you're talking red iron and steel purlins I think you'll be fine going into the purlins with some large self tappers, but I would stick a lot of them in. If you have a carport type building I would maybe think about screwing into the vertical box tubing supports instead of the purlins.
@@NealORussa steel red iron building, actually our house. I was going to screw in the header to the building every 3-4 feet, figured it might need more than 2 screws each attachment point. I was just thrown about the type of wood to use. I was considering using cypress for the blocks attached to the header. Thank you again
@@stephenwalegir8591 I'd use treated wood and if your nervous about the metal contact put a thin sheet of rubber between or even a sheet of thin hdpe cutting board. We have a bunch of cutting board sheets that are probably 1/32" thick and I often cut them up for projects when my wife isn't looking.
Awesome Series!!! Any clue to the name of the Gutter Guards? Those look awesome and have big holes for water. Thanks for taking the time to video and educate.
Thanks for the great comment Bryan! I'm not sure what brand they are, but i can ask my father in law and see if he knows.
Great videos on build. Do you have a rough idea as far as cost was minus labor? Again really nice job!
Thanks so much for the comment! Honestly I'm not sure what the costs were. It was for my father in law, he had some of the wood and this was also around covid pricing fluctuations. I'd imagine he spent less than 1000.
Very clear demonstration, thanks for sharing. What is the separation distances of
A) the rafters and
the separation distance of
B) the 4x2 wood which you screw the metal sheet onto ?
My shed is 18ft wide so using 9x2 inch rafters
Hey thanks for the comment! The rafters are spaced at 4' on center. The 2x4 purlins are spaced at 2' on center.
Okay? When you put the header board with the spacer on the barn side, I didn’t see you use any weather striping just wondering if that’s something that could be added ?
I like the job you did and I am looking to do that same thing to my pole barn
I was told that the siding had to be cut??
Larry, you are correct we didnt use any weather stripping, only the HSS screws went through the siding. Since our lean to roof was placed just under the gutter, we were not worried about much water running down that sidewall. If you do not have a gutter, or your lean to roof is a ways below the gutter, it may be better to add a steel drip cap above the roof, which would need to be installed underneath the top layer of wall sheeting, which means the wall sheeting would need to be cut horizontally along the length of the building.
@@NealORussa
Thank you I do have gutters on both sides
Nice video. Thanks. Question
...can you keep the same roof line that's on building?
Thanks for the comments Yes you could but the outside edge would be lower. Most people go with a flatter lean to because the eave of the building is already 9-10' and they don't want to be only 5-6' tall with a 4:12 pitch at the end.
So you just tucked the metal under the gutter. Basically, with no flashing , I'm just curious: Wouldn't this leak. Rain can blow all directions. Seems like maybe better to tuck this roof under the old roof??? Any experts reading comments. ?? What do you think
True, rain could blow up under the gutter. But the exterior of the building is still completely in tact. If that rain blew up under the gutter, some water would just run down the outside sheet of the building. Since this is an open lean-to anyways, it doesnt really matter, if rain was blowing that way it will blow under the lean to as well. If this was an enclosed lean-to and needed to be raintight, some other methods should be used.
@Neal O'Russa thanks. I'm getting ready to do something like this, but it will be enclosed. See your point.. Wonder if a good way to seal without cutting siding.
@@CRsolar if you don't have gutters and the lean to panel ribs are the same as the roof panel ribs, then slip the new panel right under the existing roof. Could run a bead of flashing sealant between the two as well before inserting the new sheet.
@Neal O'Russa yes this is what I was thinking. But it's a bit high and only wanted a 1 story addition. Basically, I was wondering. if there is a good method butting up another roof to an existing metal R panel without cutting and flashing. Like this video.did. and I understand how they don't care. But my addition isn't a car port . So don't want it to leak.. plus, inside is spray foamed and finished. Some wouldn't be easy to cut flashing in. Was thinking maybe I could put a second R panel over the top?? Maybe
Nice Job, On installing the header board to the building what were you anchoring too? was there a beam already installed on the inside of the building ? Mine has insulation so I am unsure of where the beams are. thanks
Thanks Shawn! Yes behind the metal sheet there is a 2x10 header board that the roof trusses for the main building sit on. You would want to double check what you have there before doing this, but most have an outer header there to screw into.
Thank you Sir
Looks like a great job, what did the materials run you for this build just a ballpark number? Im looking to do the same thing.
Jake, i honestly have no idea but I can ask my father in law. He had some of the lumber laying around from a previous project, so the number may not be complete. Also, as I'm sure you know lumber and metal prices are all over the place right now!!
what roof pitch did you use?
I can't quite recall but it wasn't a bunch. Maybe 1' drop over 9' run?
So I wanna know did you go back and fix the metal because it wrong or did you leave it?
So far we have left it as is. I'll ask my father in law over easter and see if it is dripping much and I'll let you know how its doing.
I have a question I like what you did but my question is why didn’t you cut the wall on the pole barn and build directly on the side header board of the inside barn
We didn't want to cut the metal. It would create an opening for more water intrusion into the header board.
I’m wondering (it’s been about a year) have you seen any kind of issues with putting the ledger over the sheeting wall with the spacers at the top underneath the rain gutters ? I AM thinking of doing just that same type of project that way
Great video! I know it’s not the subject of the video, but any idea what type of gutters and gutter guards those are on the main pole barn? I’m having a hard time figuring out how to hang gutters on my building. I have no eaves or soffit to speak of.
Not sure about that building but I had gutters added onto my pole barns without eaves or soffit. It's just standard commercial 5" gutter with 3x4 downspouts. They hung it just under the roof sheeting. It's screwed to the header board the trusses sit on. On one of my buildings I had to trim my roof sheeting about 2" because it was laid kinda long and overshooting the gutter in hard rains.
@@NealORussa thank you! Very helpful. My roof barely overhangs at all (unfortunately) so hopefully no cuts needed but thank you for being so generous with your time and knowledge. I saved all 3 of this video series. Really well done.
@@noraendzel no problem! Even barely any overhang you could run your gutter right underneath it and it will shoot off into it. I prefer no overhangs on pole barns. No need for it really and saves a little money and easier to build.
I'd like to do this to my pole barn. How do you determine your pitch?
Hey thanks for the comment. Not sure I understand the question. I think we just pitched it 1' down over the 9' length. Really just needs to shed water.
I can see the post are treated did you use regular pine on all the rest?
Yes the rest is regular SPF framing lumber.
When sheeting I put minimal screws in until all sheets are up. then put the rest in. Each builder has different methods. Nothing wrong with this method.
Be nice if the steel sheets were installed with the proper lap you installed with the lap backwards.
Thank you for the insight! Someone else had previously mentioned that and that is a great point, I wish I would have known. I did update the description of this video after the first comment to point out my mistake and hopefully people can read that in addition to watching the video. Thanks for watching and the comment!
size of the screw for the metal sheet.
Hey Daniel, the screws are #10 pole barn screws. I think for this we used 1", maybe 1.25" long? A 2x4 is only 1.5" thick, so you dont want anything longer than 1.25".
@@NealORussa thank you so much!
What are you doing about flashing to the other barn?
Hey there, we didn't use any flashing on this lean to section because the roof panels are positioned up tight underneath the gutter. I'd say any water that is blown up the lean to slope and under the gutter will just have to run down the outside of the existing building wall.
You did a good job but your metal is overlapping the wrong was. Big flat part should be against the Perlins. Small side overlapping that.
Thanks for the comment and note! Some others have mentioned that as well and I noted the correct overlap in the video description. Live & learn, thanks again for watching
It didn't bend when u walked on it?
Hey B! No with the purlins 2' on center the metal sheeting doesn't bend, especially once it's screwed down. Before I screw it down I try to keep my weight or steps close to the purlins but not always possible.
@@NealORussa gotcha, how u overlap the sheets if over 8'? Mine is gonna b 13'
@@Eastbaypisces You order the sheets in whatever length you want from the supplier and they are always 3' wide. So for example you would order a 20, 13' long sheets to cover a 60'x13' area.
@@NealORussa gotcha, u get from home depot?
@@NealORussa did u need flashing? How u prevent water from going in?
the over lap on your metal is wrong, the lip side goes under.
Yes that is correct. I added that information to the description that the overlap is incorrect. Thanks for pointing it out! Always learning!
The lip goes under
@@eithanlong1355 thanks for the comment. Yes you are correct I have tried to state this error in the video description. Appreciate you watching and the knowledge!
You put the sheets on wrong the skinny side goes over the the fat side.not as you have in never done that way!
Yes you are correct. I added that to the video description. Lesson learned. Thanks for the comment!
Your sheeting is over lapped wrong.
Yes you are correct, someone pointed that out early on and I noted it in the video description. Thanks for watching and your comment!