Really, it’s hard to find tutorials with such down to earth and thoroughly personable explanations. It’s so nice to see the trial and errors, and all the minute thoughts behind everything. 1/2 my time in the shop is spent on problem solving, and most people omit that kind of stuff. It’s incredibly encouraging
Stainless hardens when it gets hot.. That's why it feels so hard. Low revs and high pressure on the drillbit, it should cut not grind.. Use cutting oil
A high intense heat right at the beginning of the burnout is best after a few minutes you can throttle back the heat to drop the wax. Preheat the kiln first then use some ingot tongs (easy to make) to put the shell into the kiln. Excellent start! & good video
someone smarter than I recommended to me wire wrapping on some kaowool to the gloves to pull the shells out of the kiln-worked great. RIP Bob Ross. Way to keep at it
Funny, I took a public speaking class in college and we had to critique our own speeches. I had to write down what I didn’t like and I remember writing down, “my voice”. I also remember my teachers response, “get over it” 😆
DUUUUUDE!!! Strange Brew!!! Thank you!!! Lol. I have NO idea how many times I watched that probably 30 years ago. Lol. Completely underrated. Where should we go? Loony bin or brewery?
"Dad, bob Broke your Beer...no doug did it". Ay hose, you are indeed a friggen genius -- The Kegger Burnout Furnace - Another Winner!! Wow, they really gave you a deal on the ceramic wool -nice! I have a local firebrick store also, and plan to make a smaller foundry furnace so will check them out. Funny how you just made this video when I had been thinking about similar furnace. Video is helping with my project -thank you! PS. my leather foundry gloves hardened up just like yours - oh well -just call em "flame hardened" :-( I would have poured the bear into a giant water bucket for watering my garden for ever sweeter grape/tomatoes -- You Hoser!
thanks for the reminder why I left Ohio so long ago, and another fun video to watch. I saw Worldtraveler boiling the wax out of ceramic shells, I wonder if he kept doing that? I used ITC 100HT coating in a forge which worked fine but I remember it being expensive. I hear there might be Roman artifacts in the marshes up your way. did you make your own burner?-Andy
I saw him do that boiling as well. I could try that as well. Might be easier. You never know where those Roman artifacts will turn up. Always have to keep looking. I bought my burner from Amazon.
Is the slurry used for moulds similar to finely ground clay? If that is the case, can't I just disolve some clay-rich soil in water and sift it through a fine mesh (old t-shirt would do) and use the slurry after the water seperated? It's used to make actual ceramics, so I can't imagine it being notably worse than the expensive store-bought slurry.
No it’s not a clay. It may be possible to use clay but that would take some trial and error to figure out. I believe it’s fumed silica and other chemicals that make it work. Experimenting is fun but there is a reason why people used specially made products. If you are going to take the time to make a sculpture you want to use products that give you the best chance of success.
Hello, sorry to ask you this off topic in the comments, do you take commissions for bronze casting someone else sculptures? You do a great detailed work even on small figures and would like to work with you on a project. Please let me know, thanks!
Stainless beer kegs are super tough to cut! I didn't have much luck cutting that stuff either. Goo idea with the welder to burn holes in it.....I used a 22 rifle! I didn't know that about the wax swelling up.....Might be another problem with my crawdad attempt? The "Z Wash" looks better to me too. I gotta wonder how long that spray on stuff would actually last even if it did work? Great video! I want to get back to this as soon as the weather gets a little better.
Haha! A 22 is genius too. Unfortunately I live in the city now so I don’t think my neighbors would appreciate that method. Although it’s Minneapolis so they might not care. They are use to it.
Stainless has to be drilled keeping the bit and stainless cool. Lots of pauses and oil or I have been told mustard by several refinery workers. Haven't tried mustard yet.
Not to mention burning galvanization will KILL you. I caught one wee wiff of it and got so sick that I wished I was dead. Hydrochloric acid does a quick job of removing it though.
Really, it’s hard to find tutorials with such down to earth and thoroughly personable explanations. It’s so nice to see the trial and errors, and all the minute thoughts behind everything. 1/2 my time in the shop is spent on problem solving, and most people omit that kind of stuff. It’s incredibly encouraging
I just document my journey.
Stainless hardens when it gets hot.. That's why it feels so hard. Low revs and high pressure on the drillbit, it should cut not grind.. Use cutting oil
Looking forward to the next video!
You’ll get to see how well this worked.
Drops of water on your drill hole is like lube for cutting stainless steel, saves your bits. Love your honesty in your videos, thanks for sharing!
Use the slower rpm on the drill and drill bit lube like lubri-cut.
Another great video! Super Job!
A high intense heat right at the beginning of the burnout is best after a few minutes you can throttle back the heat to drop the wax. Preheat the kiln first then use some ingot tongs (easy to make) to put the shell into the kiln. Excellent start! & good video
Good tips. Thank you! I appreciate it.
someone smarter than I recommended to me wire wrapping on some kaowool to the gloves to pull the shells out of the kiln-worked great. RIP Bob Ross. Way to keep at it
you have a great voice for this
Funny, I took a public speaking class in college and we had to critique our own speeches. I had to write down what I didn’t like and I remember writing down, “my voice”.
I also remember my teachers response, “get over it” 😆
Cobalt drill bits are the way to go when working with stainless! ...and some cutting/drilling oil helps too! 👍
And I find that you can deal with heat dissipation problem by taking your battery drill and putting it on slow speed.
DUUUUUDE!!! Strange Brew!!! Thank you!!! Lol. I have NO idea how many times I watched that probably 30 years ago. Lol. Completely underrated. Where should we go? Loony bin or brewery?
"Dad, bob Broke your Beer...no doug did it". Ay hose, you are indeed a friggen genius -- The Kegger Burnout Furnace - Another Winner!!
Wow, they really gave you a deal on the ceramic wool -nice! I have a local firebrick store also, and plan to make a smaller foundry furnace so will check them out.
Funny how you just made this video when I had been thinking about similar furnace. Video is helping with my project -thank you!
PS. my leather foundry gloves hardened up just like yours - oh well -just call em "flame hardened" :-(
I would have poured the bear into a giant water bucket for watering my garden for ever sweeter grape/tomatoes -- You Hoser!
Haha. Flame hardened gloves. I like it. I need to get some real flame resistant gloves.
I used a plasma cutter attachment to the welder, made all of those cuts way easier.
Didn’t know I could get a plasma cutter for my welder.
Try tungsten carbide drill bits for S/S. Good idea with 'welding' the holes. Put snow in your baking tray. Good idea with the tablet dye.
Use a cutting oil, helps with the drills.
Use cutting fluid for drilling. It helps a BIT. I used as coating fire-proof cement.
thanks for the reminder why I left Ohio so long ago, and another fun video to watch. I saw Worldtraveler boiling the wax out of ceramic shells, I wonder if he kept doing that? I used ITC 100HT coating in a forge which worked fine but I remember it being expensive. I hear there might be Roman artifacts in the marshes up your way. did you make your own burner?-Andy
I saw him do that boiling as well. I could try that as well. Might be easier.
You never know where those Roman artifacts will turn up. Always have to keep looking.
I bought my burner from Amazon.
Is the slurry used for moulds similar to finely ground clay? If that is the case, can't I just disolve some clay-rich soil in water and sift it through a fine mesh (old t-shirt would do) and use the slurry after the water seperated? It's used to make actual ceramics, so I can't imagine it being notably worse than the expensive store-bought slurry.
No it’s not a clay. It may be possible to use clay but that would take some trial and error to figure out. I believe it’s fumed silica and other chemicals that make it work. Experimenting is fun but there is a reason why people used specially made products. If you are going to take the time to make a sculpture you want to use products that give you the best chance of success.
Hello, sorry to ask you this off topic in the comments, do you take commissions for bronze casting someone else sculptures? You do a great detailed work even on small figures and would like to work with you on a project. Please let me know, thanks!
Oh thanks for asking but I don’t take commissions at this time.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Thank you for your reply, keep up the good work!!
Work hardening aside, I like using Cobalt drill bits for my stainless spearfishing projects.
Stainless beer kegs are super tough to cut! I didn't have much luck cutting that stuff either. Goo idea with the welder to burn holes in it.....I used a 22 rifle! I didn't know that about the wax swelling up.....Might be another problem with my crawdad attempt? The "Z Wash" looks better to me too. I gotta wonder how long that spray on stuff would actually last even if it did work? Great video! I want to get back to this as soon as the weather gets a little better.
Haha! A 22 is genius too. Unfortunately I live in the city now so I don’t think my neighbors would appreciate that method. Although it’s Minneapolis so they might not care. They are use to it.
Nice!
great !
Stainless has to be drilled keeping the bit and stainless cool. Lots of pauses and oil or I have been told mustard by several refinery workers. Haven't tried mustard yet.
Why not use electric elements for a wax burnout kiln? Too slow?
It could be done but the smoke and suit from the burning wax isn’t good for electric elements. And I’m not electrician so gas is just easier.
you need to seal your ceramic wool.... lol ok ludox :) did it work
I still coated it with a harder sealant. The ludox may have sealed it but if nothing else the harder coating will protect the insulation itself.
Irwin cobalt drill bits works good on stainless. Go slow they will cut better
Not to mention burning galvanization will KILL you. I caught one wee wiff of it and got so sick that I wished I was dead. Hydrochloric acid does a quick job of removing it though.
Yikes! Glad you didn’t croak.
Cobalt bits for the stainless.