Good point was made, I never gave any feedback if this improved things. Answer is yes, the generator runs noticably smoother and seem to run longer between fill ups. Overall this has improved things a lot. Hope this helps.
After you investigate the amp draw please post I would like to see the results. I was thinking on the same line but was going to try a computer fan. Thanks
I just finished cleaning rebuilding the carb on my 3500 & was thinking about modding it with an inline fuel filter from an outboard engine & a fuel shutoff valve to run the float bowl dry. Your microswitch solution is pretty handy too! Thanks for the spark plug info & sharing about the oil issue with the igniter electronics. I’ll definitely give that a check next time I open it up!
My initial reason for viewing your video was as to a solution to the co2 shutoff. I finally got a new van and bought this generator to power my service equipment and as with most things each thing lead to a new problem. I mounted mine on a hitch slip on the back but quickly realized I had to prevent weather and theft damage. After an extensive search could only find one box made by uws with appropriate dimensions. Now have a lockable box but now the generator shuts off even with the lid open. So I found a metal diesel extension to pipe exhaust out with lid open but now it still allows fume back up so im now at the intersection of disabling the shutoff. You have offered so much helpful info. My next step is to supplement with solar on the van in addition to the generator and I'm sure there will be problems there as well. Hope you get a lot of traffic leading to prosperity.
Consider a small 12vdc fan to draw the fumes out and plug it into the 12vdc plug of the generator. There is a video where a guy completely enclosed his generator successfully on YT. I watched it awhile ago.
In regards to the spark arrest screen in and on the exhaust outlet. I had a similar issue with my chain saw where the spark arrest screen would carbon up. Simple solution was to remove it and, using a map gas torch, heat the screens. It doesn't take much to clean off the buildup using the torch and then blow the ashes off with an air hose afterwards. Great video, thanks.
The radiator fan is great. Fun modifications. 11:08 the line should be run upward and a small breather/filter installed. Just like a breather on a valve cover. 12:39 the drain hose to the right of your finger is to empty the float bowl. Ign kill switch seems like a good idea but that wont completely empty the bowl.
I like it the only thing different I would do is pick up some 4 inch thick insulation from Lowe’s or Home Depot put that on the very top with a little bit of overhang and your top. Also, you could insulate the sides if you needed to or you felt you wanted to, other than that I think you have a really good solution for your heat problem. Thanks for sharing. God bless you and yours.
Good video. I really don’t think the oil is the fault in the ignition other than maybe causing a bad connection because oil has insulation properties. It’s used in transformers and other electrical systems for insulation and cooling.
Good point. I knew that but never applied the logic. Probably a bad connection or deteriorated terminal from oil? Or maybe the oil was a little caustic being heated and burned by the motor allowing it to break down things?
I called NGK and ask what their best spark plug is for my Harbor Freight Predator 3500, and they said the NGK 6637 BPR6EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug SKU #BPR6EIX. I bought one haven’t use it yet because I found out why when 1st starting, I was getting a real rough running generator. I use Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline, then remove the ethanol, water, and contaminants, then add Lucas 10026 octane booster and STA-BIL 360 ethanol treatment and stabilizer. I’ve only run this generator 30 minutes at a time for break in, so once a month before I start the generator, I violently shake the generator to mix up the additives with the fuel in the tank. I found out that it contaminates the charcoal filter. So, now after removing the charcoal filter assembly it runs perfect. So right now, no need to replace the spark plug. Great video. Thanks
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching. Pay attention to the Octane Booster, it may cause some valve chatter from igniting (detonating) slower than lower Octane Fuels.
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico. Thank you for your video. Please let me stste this clearly, please don't modify the case of this generator, you can burn up the inverter circuit board, besides i have never had a problem with over heating and I run it about 12 hours a day for 2 years. the mods i have done are, magnetic oil dip stick, oil drain extension hose, NGK iridium spark plug, remove spark arrestor and carbon canister and i swapped out the stock jet for a #68 jet. I have been running with no problems for 2 years and I am getting 12 hours per gallon of gas. I do want to get a remote start for it but I just don't have the money right now. Also you are not supposed to use the 12 volt plug at the same time as the ac plug so adding a high amp fan is a bad idea and can damage the generator, i live in the desert of New Mexico and I have never over heated the generator. For oil i use 40 weight in the summer and 30 in the winter. I hope this helps you
You are correct about running the 12VD and the AC, manual states it. However, the total load I am drawing is below the recommendation. So that is key. The fan in run is only 4.6amps. As for modifying the case, I am going on 4 years with not issues. 👍 But, I appreciate the feedback so others can learn.
the 20 amp duplex receptacle on mine broke as soon as I plugged something into mine fresh out of the box. The black face literally caved in and fractured. I removed it, and installed a Hubble commercial grade WHITE duplex. Better receptacle material AND being white, it is easier to find/plug into in low light conditions.
@@spockmcoyissmart961 There seems to be a pretty big disparage between units. Build quality varies. But the "white" is a smart idea. The black is tough to see.
This brings up a new idea or two. How about a led lit duplex that would fit there? And use a LED strip around the control panel for night use. It should draw barely less than 1amp. The switch to operate is mounted next to the other switch mod. Hmmm....you created a monster with you duplex idea 👊🏽 lol
@@colinoskopie8091 in the past hubbell made emergency receptacles for hospitals that had neon bulbs behind each receptacle so you could find in the dark. A duplex receptacle would have 2 neons total.
Have you ever thought about adding a inline fuel filter and eliminating the fuel tank strainer/filter. I purchased this generator brand new and started using STA-BILl 360 ethanol treatment and stabilizer Lucas 10026 octane booster with Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline with the ethanol and water removed. I run the generator twice a month for 30 minutes to exercise it. The generator only has 41 total hours on it. The carburetor plugs up, the fuel tank strainer/filter plugs up and the fuel tank looks horrible. I can’t figure out if the Sta-bill 360 not working or it’s the Octane booster messing things up. So, my thought would be removing the fuel tank strainer/filter and installing an inline fuel filter so it’s accessible for serving? What’s your thoughts.
Nice Greg, thanks man, love the fan man, damn good job. I have had mine forever, and never ran the damn thing, have let it run on all the stock stuff for the past week to get 21 hours on it. Ordered the plug today. We are in hot as hell Texas, and I may try to do the fan. I am curious of what oil you are running in yours. I have been playing with my idle screw to try to get a smooth idle, probably does not have enough hours on it, but after watching your video, I see all the restrictions clogging everything up. Just picked up a toy hauler that needs some work so I am sure this gen set will see some use shortly. Appreciate you putting this together.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, all the smog stuff bogs these little motors down. Mine runs better than ever now. I change my oil frequently based on heat so standard Valvoline oil for now. May convert to Syn-Blend or full synthetic this summer.
Great video and truly an eye opener for me. I got a used Predator 3500 at Harbor Freight and it was great for a while. Now it wont start and i am learning as I go as dont know much about engines. I can't even find a local repair place for it. I got a new spark plug, and i going to clean the carburator. Now, the hard plastic boot that goes over the plug creacked and there is a small triangle shape gap. Would this be a big problem? I saw another video where the owner had to practically dismantle most of the generator to replace that spark plug boot wire. Any help I can get I will appreciate. Once again, thank you for the great video.
Thank you and hope the vid helped. The only time the speak plug wire boot could be an issue is if it is grounding (you will see a small spark jump form the boot to the engine). But that is highly unlikely. If anything, add a dab of silicone to just fill the hole or wrap electrical tape around it. If you are not getting spark, it is a bad ignighter like mine. Oil gets on them and ruins them.
This is in the owners Manuel. But it seams to work. 1. Do not use any 120 VAC outlet while using the 12 VDC outlet. 2. Move the Economy (ESC) Switch to the OFF position.
I couldn't for the life of me figure out where the oil was coming from covering the ignition module on my Predator 3500 until I watched your video. I like the idea of relocating the module higher up, but where can I get the connector to extend the one that plugs into the module. Also is there any kind of high temp sealant that would better seal where the low oil sensor wires go into the engine? Thank you!
I don't remember having to extend my wires. I think I just cut the zip ties to free the wire and then resecure. As for high temp sealant, Permatex makes Red sealant that is high temp. Just have to make sure it dries thoroughly before using the generator. Glad I could help you solve your problem. Thanks for wathcing
What you have done to your generator is awesome. I have a question, I have the same generator and thing is running but stays on overload mode. I've done everything but still stays on Overload any ideas what it can be.
@@juanito1jio2jian3 I know when mine has tripped, I powered it down, and unplugged everything for it to reset. If yours won't, then it could be the control panel or a short in the system somewhere. The internal wires experience a lot of vibration and not uncommon the protective insulation gets worn.
Hi Greg, I have a question and hope you can help me as it seems you know a LOT more than I do working on these generators. My 3500 is about 7 years old and I have gotten my use out of it. I change the oil about every two weeks and the spark plug once a year. So the problem is this season I took the generator out of my garage to use it and it wouldn't start, seems the battery was dead and the pull cord is broken. So I put the battery on my charger and it showed it was dead and couldn't charge it. So I replaced it with a good Mighty Max battery and put it in and she ran fine. Now fast forward two weeks and the generator won't start again and acts as if the battery is dead. So I was up working on the property and used my jumper cables to fire the generator up and ran fine. When I turned it off it would not start up again. I took the battery home and put it on the charger and it shows the battery is fully charged. So I have NO idea what is wrong and hope that someone like you with experience can help me out as I need the old girl this summer. Thanks.
@@mrgreenbudz37 Man that is a doozy. The round dial you turn for Off/Start/Choke actually turns off the batter when not in use. I am wondering if that is the issue. The dial is not turning off the battery property. If not that, you could have a parasitic draw from a wire that has vibrated over time grounding out the battery maybe?? May have to get a multi meter and check for grounds. Also, make sure your connections to the starter aren't loose. The positive battery wire should go to the starter and the negative to the motor and frame (I think).
I haven't had any issues at all. I have charging 12VDC batteries for years with no issuesn(using the AC at the same time , that would be close to the fan. Not as many amps, but still using 12VDC.
Hi thanks for the video! My 3500 is making me crazy! Trying to use my InstaPot tonight and it keeps shutting off after about 10 minutes of cooking because of that new carbon monoxide sensor. I’ve taking the back filter off but it still does it. I’ll probably take it back because it’s still under warranty but I’ve already had this problem with the one I had before. I just wanted to cook some chicken! Got any suggestions. I love your mods but mine is still under extended warranty so I’m afraid to mess with it to much. 😅
I would be guessing the carbon filter is your issue. If these ever get overfilled, it will effect the charcoal canister. When this happens it will run for random periods of time and then just shut down.
Man, that is a new one on me. There really isn't any electronics that control these machines. I am assuming even a small desk lamp kills it? I suggest a call to their tech support. Wondering if there is a logic controller inside somewhere.
Question for you...I need to replace my digital meter on the front panel, but cannot get the start/stop/run knob off!! I see you have removed yours, how did you do it? In other words what type of screw is this? Such a crap design to put some type of unusual screw deep inside the switch knob!
There is a Phillips head screw in the center. You will need a long #2 to get it the screw out (standard threads). Once you remove that, the knob comes right off. I have heard these meters go bad all the time. Out of 3 here at our property, all 3 are dead. Point is, they don't last long, so your replacement my not either.
@@gphilpot1 Thanks!! I bought a new gauge from HF ($64)!! The original lasted about 3 years... of course the new one came with no instructions at all...
I have only 37 hrs. on mine and the digital meter on the front panel only shows hrs. Did you have the same problem, I called HF and told them I only had 37 hrs and they said tough luck your out of warranty. I bought this generator for emergency back up and so far I only have break in hrs at 30 mins at a time.
@@dougharlow6037 Hey, it's super easy, once you figure out that there is a "hidden" screw deep inside the "on/off/choke" switch. It's a #2 Phillips head screw and you need a skinny shaft Phillips screwdriver at least 4" long. It MUST be a #2 size. There are a couple of decent videos already out there on this, but I had to call Harbor Freight tech to find out what kind of screwdriver I needed because you can't see the screw head since it is recessed. Once you take off the other screws, and then remove the screw on this switch, the panel will come off and the new digital meter is "plug and play"! I bought mine for $62 (I think) off Amazon. I also did the big wheel upgrade...it's awesome!
You are correct. I didn't even think about that, you are correct. Maybe the oil broke down the circuit board. I do know the module was covered in oil and it was bad. Thanks
I hadn't run the generator at the time the video was made, so good point. It made a huge improvement overall in how smooth it runs, improved run time between fill ups, and better performance. I will pin a comment to the video with a statement how everything worked out. Thanks for watching.
@@Azure_Zahab_Truth_ZealotOh oh! A lefty losing it! Everything you believe in your heart of hearts is based on lies! The cat is out of the bag. The media coordinated to manipulate your weak and feeble mind.
Good point was made, I never gave any feedback if this improved things.
Answer is yes, the generator runs noticably smoother and seem to run longer between fill ups. Overall this has improved things a lot. Hope this helps.
After you investigate the amp draw please post I would like to see the results. I was thinking on the same line but was going to try a computer fan. Thanks
I just finished cleaning rebuilding the carb on my 3500 & was thinking about modding it with an inline fuel filter from an outboard engine & a fuel shutoff valve to run the float bowl dry. Your microswitch solution is pretty handy too! Thanks for the spark plug info & sharing about the oil issue with the igniter electronics. I’ll definitely give that a check next time I open it up!
@@theranch4426 It works and allows my generator work after long periods of non-use.
My initial reason for viewing your video was as to a solution to the co2 shutoff. I finally got a new van and bought this generator to power my service equipment and as with most things each thing lead to a new problem. I mounted mine on a hitch slip on the back but quickly realized I had to prevent weather and theft damage. After an extensive search could only find one box made by uws with appropriate dimensions. Now have a lockable box but now the generator shuts off even with the lid open. So I found a metal diesel extension to pipe exhaust out with lid open but now it still allows fume back up so im now at the intersection of disabling the shutoff. You have offered so much helpful info. My next step is to supplement with solar on the van in addition to the generator and I'm sure there will be problems there as well.
Hope you get a lot of traffic leading to prosperity.
Consider a small 12vdc fan to draw the fumes out and plug it into the 12vdc plug of the generator.
There is a video where a guy completely enclosed his generator successfully on YT. I watched it awhile ago.
The only downside on installing the fan would be the amp draw you are loosing from your output. All your other Mods. Are spot on.
Never thought about that. I will put a clamp meter on it to see what is draws. Thanks for watching.
In regards to the spark arrest screen in and on the exhaust outlet. I had a similar issue with my chain saw where the spark arrest screen would carbon up. Simple solution was to remove it and, using a map gas torch, heat the screens. It doesn't take much to clean off the buildup using the torch and then blow the ashes off with an air hose afterwards. Great video, thanks.
Good info to know about a way to burn the carbon off. Some arrestor screens are harder to remove than others. Thanks for watching
The radiator fan is great. Fun modifications.
11:08 the line should be run upward and a small breather/filter installed. Just like a breather on a valve cover.
12:39 the drain hose to the right of your finger is to empty the float bowl. Ign kill switch seems like a good idea but that wont completely empty the bowl.
I will be bringing it home to install a remote start. I will look into this. Thanks.
I like it the only thing different I would do is pick up some 4 inch thick insulation from Lowe’s or Home Depot put that on the very top with a little bit of overhang and your top. Also, you could insulate the sides if you needed to or you felt you wanted to, other than that I think you have a really good solution for your heat problem. Thanks for sharing. God bless you and yours.
Thank you for the suggestions.
Man
You are so cool and should be proffessor.
Thanks so much for an informative and clear cut instruction for us non machine minded people.
Glad it helped and thanks. It's a little nerve racking being in front of the camera... LOL. Thanks
Good video. I really don’t think the oil is the fault in the ignition other than maybe causing a bad connection because oil has insulation properties. It’s used in transformers and other electrical systems for insulation and cooling.
Good point. I knew that but never applied the logic. Probably a bad connection or deteriorated terminal from oil? Or maybe the oil was a little caustic being heated and burned by the motor allowing it to break down things?
The torch F6RTC is the OEM plug for that unit and has been for a few years now. That NGK BPR6ES is the correct plug for the generator.
Thanks for sharing
I called NGK and ask what their best spark plug is for my Harbor Freight Predator 3500, and they said the NGK 6637 BPR6EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug SKU #BPR6EIX. I bought one haven’t use it yet because I found out why when 1st starting, I was getting a real rough running generator. I use Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline, then remove the ethanol, water, and contaminants, then add Lucas 10026 octane booster and STA-BIL 360 ethanol treatment and stabilizer. I’ve only run this generator 30 minutes at a time for break in, so once a month before I start the generator, I violently shake the generator to mix up the additives with the fuel in the tank. I found out that it contaminates the charcoal filter. So, now after removing the charcoal filter assembly it runs perfect. So right now, no need to replace the spark plug. Great video. Thanks
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Pay attention to the Octane Booster, it may cause some valve chatter from igniting (detonating) slower than lower Octane Fuels.
High octane doesn’t burn slower, it is just more resistant to compression ignition.
Great job on the video. Could you please share with us how to wire the micro switch to empty the fuel bowl.
Thanks
@@tobydog247 Here is a video someone already made that I learned from. th-cam.com/video/HBnMq6g5am8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ITw0aGm55Q0BdGtM
Hope this helps.
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico. Thank you for your video. Please let me stste this clearly, please don't modify the case of this generator, you can burn up the inverter circuit board, besides i have never had a problem with over heating and I run it about 12 hours a day for 2 years. the mods i have done are, magnetic oil dip stick, oil drain extension hose, NGK iridium spark plug, remove spark arrestor and carbon canister and i swapped out the stock jet for a #68 jet. I have been running with no problems for 2 years and I am getting 12 hours per gallon of gas. I do want to get a remote start for it but I just don't have the money right now. Also you are not supposed to use the 12 volt plug at the same time as the ac plug so adding a high amp fan is a bad idea and can damage the generator, i live in the desert of New Mexico and I have never over heated the generator. For oil i use 40 weight in the summer and 30 in the winter. I hope this helps you
You are correct about running the 12VD and the AC, manual states it. However, the total load I am drawing is below the recommendation. So that is key.
The fan in run is only 4.6amps.
As for modifying the case, I am going on 4 years with not issues. 👍
But, I appreciate the feedback so others can learn.
the 20 amp duplex receptacle on mine broke as soon as I plugged something into mine fresh out of the box. The black face literally caved in and fractured. I removed it, and installed a Hubble commercial grade WHITE duplex. Better receptacle material AND being white, it is easier to find/plug into in low light conditions.
@@spockmcoyissmart961 There seems to be a pretty big disparage between units. Build quality varies. But the "white" is a smart idea. The black is tough to see.
This brings up a new idea or two. How about a led lit duplex that would fit there? And use a LED strip around the control panel for night use. It should draw barely less than 1amp. The switch to operate is mounted next to the other switch mod. Hmmm....you created a monster with you duplex idea 👊🏽 lol
@@colinoskopie8091 in the past hubbell made emergency receptacles for hospitals that had neon bulbs behind each receptacle so you could find in the dark. A duplex receptacle would have 2 neons total.
Have you ever thought about adding a inline fuel filter and eliminating the fuel tank strainer/filter. I purchased this generator brand new and started using STA-BILl 360 ethanol treatment and stabilizer Lucas 10026 octane booster with Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline with the ethanol and water removed. I run the generator twice a month for 30 minutes to exercise it. The generator only has 41 total hours on it. The carburetor plugs up, the fuel tank strainer/filter plugs up and the fuel tank looks horrible. I can’t figure out if the Sta-bill 360 not working or it’s the Octane booster messing things up. So, my thought would be removing the fuel tank strainer/filter and installing an inline fuel filter so it’s accessible for serving? What’s your thoughts.
Nice Greg, thanks man, love the fan man, damn good job. I have had mine forever, and never ran the damn thing, have let it run on all the stock stuff for the past week to get 21 hours on it. Ordered the plug today. We are in hot as hell Texas, and I may try to do the fan. I am curious of what oil you are running in yours. I have been playing with my idle screw to try to get a smooth idle, probably does not have enough hours on it, but after watching your video, I see all the restrictions clogging everything up. Just picked up a toy hauler that needs some work so I am sure this gen set will see some use shortly. Appreciate you putting this together.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, all the smog stuff bogs these little motors down. Mine runs better than ever now.
I change my oil frequently based on heat so standard Valvoline oil for now. May convert to Syn-Blend or full synthetic this summer.
Last question, how much sea foam do you normally run through it?
Great video and truly an eye opener for me. I got a used Predator 3500 at Harbor Freight and it was great for a while. Now it wont start and i am learning as I go as dont know much about engines. I can't even find a local repair place for it. I got a new spark plug, and i going to clean the carburator. Now, the hard plastic boot that goes over the plug creacked and there is a small triangle shape gap. Would this be a big problem? I saw another video where the owner had to practically dismantle most of the generator to replace that spark plug boot wire. Any help I can get I will appreciate. Once again, thank you for the great video.
Thank you and hope the vid helped. The only time the speak plug wire boot could be an issue is if it is grounding (you will see a small spark jump form the boot to the engine). But that is highly unlikely. If anything, add a dab of silicone to just fill the hole or wrap electrical tape around it.
If you are not getting spark, it is a bad ignighter like mine. Oil gets on them and ruins them.
Thank you for you reply. I truly appreciate you taking the time, respectfully
Franco
This is in the owners Manuel. But it seams to work. 1. Do not use any 120 VAC outlet
while using the 12 VDC outlet.
2. Move the Economy (ESC) Switch
to the OFF position.
Just my opinion but im against changing the original air flow pattern. Adding more flow yes but changing the flow no.
Hi, which wires do you connect the micro switch to for the run stop?
I couldn't for the life of me figure out where the oil was coming from covering the ignition module on my Predator 3500 until I watched your video. I like the idea of relocating the module higher up, but where can I get the connector to extend the one that plugs into the module. Also is there any kind of high temp sealant that would better seal where the low oil sensor wires go into the engine? Thank you!
I don't remember having to extend my wires. I think I just cut the zip ties to free the wire and then resecure. As for high temp sealant, Permatex makes Red sealant that is high temp. Just have to make sure it dries thoroughly before using the generator.
Glad I could help you solve your problem. Thanks for wathcing
What you have done to your generator is awesome. I have a question, I have the same generator and thing is running but stays on overload mode. I've done everything but still stays on Overload any ideas what it can be.
@@juanito1jio2jian3 I know when mine has tripped, I powered it down, and unplugged everything for it to reset. If yours won't, then it could be the control panel or a short in the system somewhere. The internal wires experience a lot of vibration and not uncommon the protective insulation gets worn.
Grewt all the way around, one can take a plug thats colder and take part of the curved end off to create a faster spark.
Hi Greg, I have a question and hope you can help me as it seems you know a LOT more than I do working on these generators. My 3500 is about 7 years old and I have gotten my use out of it. I change the oil about every two weeks and the spark plug once a year. So the problem is this season I took the generator out of my garage to use it and it wouldn't start, seems the battery was dead and the pull cord is broken. So I put the battery on my charger and it showed it was dead and couldn't charge it. So I replaced it with a good Mighty Max battery and put it in and she ran fine. Now fast forward two weeks and the generator won't start again and acts as if the battery is dead. So I was up working on the property and used my jumper cables to fire the generator up and ran fine. When I turned it off it would not start up again. I took the battery home and put it on the charger and it shows the battery is fully charged. So I have NO idea what is wrong and hope that someone like you with experience can help me out as I need the old girl this summer. Thanks.
@@mrgreenbudz37 Man that is a doozy. The round dial you turn for Off/Start/Choke actually turns off the batter when not in use. I am wondering if that is the issue. The dial is not turning off the battery property. If not that, you could have a parasitic draw from a wire that has vibrated over time grounding out the battery maybe?? May have to get a multi meter and check for grounds. Also, make sure your connections to the starter aren't loose. The positive battery wire should go to the starter and the negative to the motor and frame (I think).
If the ignitor is bad, can't you just pull start? Or no
The ignitor is what supplies voltage to the Spark Plug, so unfortunately pull starting won't work. :(
It won't work, trust me 😂 I replaced mine this morning. My right upper back, shoulder and arm are all sore....pull start won't work 😅
The manual says you can't run from the 12v socket and the 120v at the same time. Have you had any problems with this?
I haven't had any issues at all. I have charging 12VDC batteries for years with no issuesn(using the AC at the same time , that would be close to the fan. Not as many amps, but still using 12VDC.
Hi thanks for the video! My 3500 is making me crazy! Trying to use my InstaPot tonight and it keeps shutting off after about 10 minutes of cooking because of that new carbon monoxide sensor. I’ve taking the back filter off but it still does it. I’ll probably take it back because it’s still under warranty but I’ve already had this problem with the one I had before. I just wanted to cook some chicken! Got any suggestions. I love your mods but mine is still under extended warranty so I’m afraid to mess with it to much. 😅
I would be guessing the carbon filter is your issue. If these ever get overfilled, it will effect the charcoal canister. When this happens it will run for random periods of time and then just shut down.
I need a fan needed some ideas TKS .I BLEW 1 up out in the desert .
That stinks. The fan really helps keep the unit cool for sure.
I just picked up a couple of BPR7ES. Do you happen to know what to set the gap to? Thank you for the info
The gap is 027-.031. Thank for watching.
Any ideas on a oil temp guage TKS again
I don't. I do think the generator runs a lot cooler than before.
Maybe you can help me. My 3500 runs good but when you draw any load from it it shuts down. I cant figure out why.
Man, that is a new one on me. There really isn't any electronics that control these machines. I am assuming even a small desk lamp kills it? I suggest a call to their tech support. Wondering if there is a logic controller inside somewhere.
Question for you...I need to replace my digital meter on the front panel, but cannot get the start/stop/run knob off!! I see you have removed yours, how did you do it? In other words what type of screw is this? Such a crap design to put some type of unusual screw deep inside the switch knob!
There is a Phillips head screw in the center. You will need a long #2 to get it the screw out (standard threads). Once you remove that, the knob comes right off.
I have heard these meters go bad all the time. Out of 3 here at our property, all 3 are dead. Point is, they don't last long, so your replacement my not either.
@@gphilpot1 Thanks!! I bought a new gauge from HF ($64)!! The original lasted about 3 years... of course the new one came with no instructions at all...
I have only 37 hrs. on mine and the digital meter on the front panel only shows hrs. Did you have the same problem, I called HF and told them I only had 37 hrs and they said tough luck your out of warranty. I bought this generator for emergency back up and so far I only have break in hrs at 30 mins at a time.
Greg or Mike can you possibly do a video of how to replace your digital meter? Good luck and Thanks
@@dougharlow6037 Hey, it's super easy, once you figure out that there is a "hidden" screw deep inside the "on/off/choke" switch. It's a #2 Phillips head screw and you need a skinny shaft Phillips screwdriver at least 4" long. It MUST be a #2 size. There are a couple of decent videos already out there on this, but I had to call Harbor Freight tech to find out what kind of screwdriver I needed because you can't see the screw head since it is recessed. Once you take off the other screws, and then remove the screw on this switch, the panel will come off and the new digital meter is "plug and play"! I bought mine for $62 (I think) off Amazon. I also did the big wheel upgrade...it's awesome!
Ignition control, 28 bucks...easy fix.
Oil is not conducive most motorcycle engines run a stator in engine oil
You are correct. I didn't even think about that, you are correct. Maybe the oil broke down the circuit board. I do know the module was covered in oil and it was bad. Thanks
You talk about the mods but you have not shared the end results with anyone...
I hadn't run the generator at the time the video was made, so good point.
It made a huge improvement overall in how smooth it runs, improved run time between fill ups, and better performance.
I will pin a comment to the video with a statement how everything worked out.
Thanks for watching.
Honda is made in communist China also
Sadly about everything is, as a society we want the cheapest option, and that drives their production. 😕
Looks like a trailer park mod.
Runs better than ever even after several months now.
Igniters are 27 bucks on Amazon not $60 you are a drama queen
It's not the cost, it is the inconvenience of losing the use of your generator.
used and abused!!
Washington state votes Donald Trump 2024
Oh yeah, right on... Maybe we'll get "Warp Speed 2.0"?
@@Azure_Zahab_Truth_ZealotOh oh! A lefty losing it! Everything you believe in your heart of hearts is based on lies! The cat is out of the bag. The media coordinated to manipulate your weak and feeble mind.
A lefty losing it!
100%!
He is the Neo and Nelson Mandela of our time.