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Excellent video on an even better topic. A few suggestions I’d make based mostly on personal preference/opinion from my research. RepairGeek has a ton of in-depth videos on this topic as well. 1. Painting is not necessary if you reapply a lanolin based product (wool wax, fluid film, surface shield) yearly. 2. For trucks with more serious rust than yours had - either make damn sure you get down to clean metal before painting or use a phosphoric acid product to convert the rust from iron oxide -> iron phosphate before coating/painting. 3. Avoid underbody washes after coating, and reapply once a year. 4. Don’t waste your time with the aerosols unless it’s a quick touch up. 5. You can add graphite powder to the coating and it will come out a clean gloss black (even tho it eventually collects dirt/debris) 6. Finally, complete any pending maintenance or modifications to the undercarriage BEFORE applying because from here on out every time you get under your truck expect to get messy.
That is some SOLID info. I know painting isn't necessary but I just can't leave my underside brown at all. It hurts my soul a bit. I had not heard of the graphite powder idea, that is very clever! Agreed on aerosol for touchups mostly.
I was waiting for this video from you. I sprayed my 2021 when I got it and spray it every year with the rattle can version of fluid film. Please have a look at the inside of the bed rails from underneath looking up. You will see rust on the seems. Definitely get that area too. The rust belt is unforgiving.
@@michaelsteelepix on the steel frame that the bed bolts to? Definitely! I’ll be keeping a real close eye on every inch of metal on this truck. This truck started its life in NC, then moved to HI, CO, and now back on the NY salt belt. So defend we must.
@teamoildrop I'm not good at explaining things, that's why I don't make youtube videos. Let me try...if you stand next to the truck bed and put your hand on top of the side rail, that's hollow. Moisture and salt can get up there. The wheel well might have to come off to spray it. It's on my list this fall.
Awesome how to, I loath the rust and the salt they put on the roads x_x. I will say my preferred products, at least based on reviews I've seen, is AmsOil Heavy Duty Metal Protector as it's basically Fluid Film but dry's with a hard finish and repels dirt/mud etc. It still washes off with stuff like Simple Green, but it doesn't make a mess like Fluid Film and technically stays on parts longer (depending on ones preference). The other go to is what Toyota puts into the frame rails etc, which is Noxudol 700. I'd say this is good for hard to reach areas around the body/frame etc. I also found that Salts Gone isn't a bad thing to have on hand either depending on how one likes to fight the rust. In the painting department, these 3 I found were better then Por15 as far as holding up to salty environments. Mastercoat Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Mastercoat AG111™ Ultimate Chassis Finish Mastercoat Metal Prep & Rust Remover Anyway, had to share. While there's a lot of ways to fight the rust, I figure it's good to have options.
solid info! I know FF is such a household name at this point in the auto and blue collar industries. I need to a deep comparison video at some point. You see the vasoline test? THAT was impressive but not very practical for spray applications.
@@teamoildrop Oh very true, with how commonly FF is used it's for sure an easy thing to grab and know what you're getting into. Also it might be easier to grab then AmsOil stuff depending. I think if it works as well as the examples I've seen, it's basically a less messy option depending on what someone wants. I am super eager to give it a try though as sometimes in Idaho you get salt on the roads and...that's not super fun. I'll have to look up Vaseline, that sounds super interesting. Good to knowledge to have in a pinch. Also great video as I love to see what others are doing and how well they fair.
I've seen these roller things that attach to a pressure washer. It's basically 3 pressure washer jets mounted on some roller blade wheels for underbody washing. That might make the job a lot easier for cleaning the underside. Woolwax also sells a lower viscosity mix of their lanolin product for spray application. Might help if doing this in the fall if you can't heat the gallon cans safely. For your mask (for the lanolin spray) get a P95 or P100, not N95. The P rated masks are meant for oily particles. N rated masks are for dry particles. A nuisance vapor cartridge or organic vapor cartridge on the half face mask also works, and is more comfortable than the N95 with a better mask seal. They may be called an elasometric mask, or half-face mask. They will be in the same section as the N95s. I realize you used an N95 for the grinding, but would also be wise for the oily spray.
I live in Ohio, and it doesn't get worse up here with the salt, but I did my 3rd generation taco, and I have the same gun as you, but I also took out all the body plugs, which was a pain, but now my rockers are covered from the inside. I love the videos. Keep it up.
Just got my 2019 rust bucket done yesterday in New Jersey. After rusted transmission lines and power steering return line I thought this would be a good idea. After the truck was sprayed, the smell wasn't really that bad. They are super busy doing this, i had to wait a couple of weeks for an appointment.
I did my 1st rust prevention last year. I went with Blaster Surface Shield for final product. I used same paint product as you did. I wanted to do internal cavities with a can attachment hose but didn't in 1st round. I may this year tho.
Oh yeah; I’ve seen some comparisons between products. I like the simplicity and availability of fluid film. I may try SS down the road as it’s also lanolin based. It’s a bit pricier but nothing to cry about.
Fluid Film is good stuff, but Blaster Surface Shield is the better choice IMO. Seems to hold on longer and be more resistant to wash off. Also - Fluid Film is stinky, Surface Shield has sort of a cedar smell. Both great products at the end of the day. Thanks for taking the time to put this together and sharing it.
I will definitely do a thorough channel comparison video for us soon. The cedar smell is enticing for sure. Whats is still strange is I still don't smell the FF odor I keep hearing about...
Brilliant move using the fluid extracting plunger to fill the spray bottle. Why didn’t I think of that - I’ve been making such a mess. I will be ordering on off Amazon immediately.
@@jasoncharles6980 I use it with so many projects. Also great to drain a power steering pump reservoir or brake fluid reservoir etc. it’s actually a quality piece too.
Fluid Film Black on my 2014 TRD, been using the regular Fluid Film for years, great product. Vehicles are so expensive it’s foolish not to apply this to keep a vehicle on the road years longer.
I sprayed fluid film inside my doors and in the hot sun it stinks whenever i get in my car, yuck. Did u experience this? Can the undercarriage be washed aftwr spraying under there? I live in the midwest and we get a lot of snow and salt. Should it be washed during the winter season at all?
Typically the smell should dissipate over the next few weeks. You can definitely wash the truck during the winter, we just advise not using a degreaser on the underside. But fluidfilm is quite water resistant so a normal wash should not remove much of the product! -Austin
@@evanlavalle2967 if simple green, or any soap/detergent is getting into your u joints we’ve got bigger problems like dried out or broken open joints. Simple green is very safe. You’ll be good to go!
Biggest mistake i made was having dealership do undercoating when i purchased. That black gunk they use is HORRIBLE and they seriously made a mess especially on nuts&bolts.
@@teamoildrop I can't recall the name but it was a black gooey sludge that is very difficult to remove from threads and anything else covered by it. Goof off even took some time to soften it up enough to use steel wire brush to clean it up. I should've known better than to purchase any extra product through dealership but I was nieve and knew rust prevention was a priority when I jumped into a Toyota truck. Live & learn.
I bought a 2018 that had one owner. Well taken care of other than the rust underneath. They lived in Denver, Illinois, and Utah. Good amount of rust on the bottom. Honestly stressing me out. Feeling overwhelmed about the amount of rust I have to remove before applying this stuff, is it bad to just spray it over the top off the rust?
Nope, you can spray this over any already rusty areas, it will help severely slow down the progress of the rust, but obviously will work best if you remove the rust first! -Austin
SUPER common, unfortunately. I just had a chat with a nice guy at a gas station here in new york that showed me is 23 was already doing it. Water tends tosit in this area. You can very easily pop the kicker panel up and carefully put some rust protection in there.
@@teamoildrop Right on, thanks for the advice! I’m in NE PA and it’s to be expected I suppose, I try to keep the truck clean and I spray the under carriage with rust oleum. These bubbles have rust rings coming up through the paint. I almost feel like I need to sand it down then repaint it. Or maybe sand it down and use some undercoating?
No need to paint if rust is light. Same the money for beer!!! Ya have your sister come visit you in the fall. She'll have more patience and you will need to hit the high wear spots and you'll see where you missed. Good thing is the next app will only use about a 1/3 gallon. I didn't see but hit the spare tire chain and rim if it's still the stock spare. Hope you installed all the mods under there!! It's real fun to run wires or mount stuff. With the cans spray the door drain holes, pop the hood and spray the front lip of the hood and then get the inside fender between the plastic wheel well. Tail gate take of the plastic and spray that also. Note it will drip out on your bumper but just wipe it of daily until it stops. Great vid!!
Ha! Yeah… I know you don’t NEED to worry about the light surface rust, that’s why I kept it under recommended. But I’ll be darned if I let rust grow or stay. The internals of the tire joist has been greased in another video with some red but I shot it up regardless 😌 I think a lot of shots get lost in editing to not eat too much run time.
@@teamoildrop No worries I'm just throwing in my two cents just in case you did miss an area. The roads here in Minnesota look like they have snow on them but it's just a 1/4 of packed salt during the winter. I'm sure that N.Y. is the same way since we buy our salt from there.
Surface shield in spray can wasn't too bad but fluid film in the bulk paint can stinks pretty bad. We do our work trucks,plows and salt conveyors with it via a paint/spray gun and yea it's stinky stinky like urine sitting in a bowl for days stinky IMO but maybe that doesn't go for all lanolin based products?
@@teamoildrop not that this should deter ppl from using it because the odor dissipates and I'd rather have a temporarily smelly truck than no truck at all in a few years of non rust prevention.
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Excellent video on an even better topic. A few suggestions I’d make based mostly on personal preference/opinion from my research. RepairGeek has a ton of in-depth videos on this topic as well.
1. Painting is not necessary if you reapply a lanolin based product (wool wax, fluid film, surface shield) yearly.
2. For trucks with more serious rust than yours had - either make damn sure you get down to clean metal before painting or use a phosphoric acid product to convert the rust from iron oxide -> iron phosphate before coating/painting.
3. Avoid underbody washes after coating, and reapply once a year.
4. Don’t waste your time with the aerosols unless it’s a quick touch up.
5. You can add graphite powder to the coating and it will come out a clean gloss black (even tho it eventually collects dirt/debris)
6. Finally, complete any pending maintenance or modifications to the undercarriage BEFORE applying because from here on out every time you get under your truck expect to get messy.
That is some SOLID info. I know painting isn't necessary but I just can't leave my underside brown at all. It hurts my soul a bit. I had not heard of the graphite powder idea, that is very clever!
Agreed on aerosol for touchups mostly.
I was waiting for this video from you. I sprayed my 2021 when I got it and spray it every year with the rattle can version of fluid film. Please have a look at the inside of the bed rails from underneath looking up. You will see rust on the seems. Definitely get that area too. The rust belt is unforgiving.
@@michaelsteelepix on the steel frame that the bed bolts to? Definitely! I’ll be keeping a real close eye on every inch of metal on this truck. This truck started its life in NC, then moved to HI, CO, and now back on the NY salt belt. So defend we must.
@teamoildrop I'm not good at explaining things, that's why I don't make youtube videos. Let me try...if you stand next to the truck bed and put your hand on top of the side rail, that's hollow. Moisture and salt can get up there. The wheel well might have to come off to spray it. It's on my list this fall.
Awesome how to, I loath the rust and the salt they put on the roads x_x.
I will say my preferred products, at least based on reviews I've seen, is AmsOil Heavy Duty Metal Protector as it's basically Fluid Film but dry's with a hard finish and repels dirt/mud etc.
It still washes off with stuff like Simple Green, but it doesn't make a mess like Fluid Film and technically stays on parts longer (depending on ones preference).
The other go to is what Toyota puts into the frame rails etc, which is Noxudol 700.
I'd say this is good for hard to reach areas around the body/frame etc.
I also found that Salts Gone isn't a bad thing to have on hand either depending on how one likes to fight the rust.
In the painting department, these 3 I found were better then Por15 as far as holding up to salty environments.
Mastercoat Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER
Mastercoat AG111™ Ultimate Chassis Finish
Mastercoat Metal Prep & Rust Remover
Anyway, had to share.
While there's a lot of ways to fight the rust, I figure it's good to have options.
solid info! I know FF is such a household name at this point in the auto and blue collar industries. I need to a deep comparison video at some point. You see the vasoline test? THAT was impressive but not very practical for spray applications.
@@teamoildrop Oh very true, with how commonly FF is used it's for sure an easy thing to grab and know what you're getting into. Also it might be easier to grab then AmsOil stuff depending.
I think if it works as well as the examples I've seen, it's basically a less messy option depending on what someone wants.
I am super eager to give it a try though as sometimes in Idaho you get salt on the roads and...that's not super fun.
I'll have to look up Vaseline, that sounds super interesting.
Good to knowledge to have in a pinch.
Also great video as I love to see what others are doing and how well they fair.
I've seen these roller things that attach to a pressure washer. It's basically 3 pressure washer jets mounted on some roller blade wheels for underbody washing. That might make the job a lot easier for cleaning the underside. Woolwax also sells a lower viscosity mix of their lanolin product for spray application. Might help if doing this in the fall if you can't heat the gallon cans safely.
For your mask (for the lanolin spray) get a P95 or P100, not N95. The P rated masks are meant for oily particles. N rated masks are for dry particles. A nuisance vapor cartridge or organic vapor cartridge on the half face mask also works, and is more comfortable than the N95 with a better mask seal. They may be called an elasometric mask, or half-face mask. They will be in the same section as the N95s.
I realize you used an N95 for the grinding, but would also be wise for the oily spray.
Love the intro 😄😄
crazy how Liam joined us in the studio. nice chap!
I live in Ohio, and it doesn't get worse up here with the salt, but I did my 3rd generation taco, and I have the same gun as you, but I also took out all the body plugs, which was a pain, but now my rockers are covered from the inside. I love the videos. Keep it up.
Just got my 2019 rust bucket done yesterday in New Jersey. After rusted transmission lines and power steering return line I thought this would be a good idea. After the truck was sprayed, the smell wasn't really that bad. They are super busy doing this, i had to wait a couple of weeks for an appointment.
@@steves2941 sounds like it’s time to DIY! Charge your neighbors $50. Good on you for protecting the truck.
Where did you have it done?
@@MookieMan1I’d like to know also… I live just over the bridge in NY..
I did my 1st rust prevention last year. I went with Blaster Surface Shield for final product. I used same paint product as you did. I wanted to do internal cavities with a can attachment hose but didn't in 1st round. I may this year tho.
Oh yeah; I’ve seen some comparisons between products. I like the simplicity and availability of fluid film. I may try SS down the road as it’s also lanolin based. It’s a bit pricier but nothing to cry about.
Thanks for the info! Great video!!
@@61espo 🍻 my pleasure!
Great idea - thanks as always!
Always a pleasure! Thanks for hanging out 🍻
Link for those little ramps you drive your truck up on to?
@@MrTB321 I just updated the parts listing in the pinned comment 😎
Fluid Film is good stuff, but Blaster Surface Shield is the better choice IMO. Seems to hold on longer and be more resistant to wash off. Also - Fluid Film is stinky, Surface Shield has sort of a cedar smell. Both great products at the end of the day. Thanks for taking the time to put this together and sharing it.
I will definitely do a thorough channel comparison video for us soon. The cedar smell is enticing for sure. Whats is still strange is I still don't smell the FF odor I keep hearing about...
Brilliant move using the fluid extracting plunger to fill the spray bottle. Why didn’t I think of that - I’ve been making such a mess. I will be ordering on off Amazon immediately.
@@jasoncharles6980 I use it with so many projects. Also great to drain a power steering pump reservoir or brake fluid reservoir etc. it’s actually a quality piece too.
Fluid Film Black on my 2014 TRD, been using the regular Fluid Film for years, great product. Vehicles are so expensive it’s foolish not to apply this to keep a vehicle on the road years longer.
All facts!
Very good video!
@@lucasr5675 🍻 thanks brother! Hope Texas hasn’t been too hot 🥵
I sprayed fluid film inside my doors and in the hot sun it stinks whenever i get in my car, yuck. Did u experience this? Can the undercarriage be washed aftwr spraying under there? I live in the midwest and we get a lot of snow and salt. Should it be washed during the winter season at all?
Typically the smell should dissipate over the next few weeks. You can definitely wash the truck during the winter, we just advise not using a degreaser on the underside. But fluidfilm is quite water resistant so a normal wash should not remove much of the product!
-Austin
@@teamoildrop sadly mine still stinks. Must be something else. Thnx
Would be re greasing the u joints and what not after spraying simple green?
@@evanlavalle2967 if simple green, or any soap/detergent is getting into your u joints we’ve got bigger problems like dried out or broken open joints. Simple green is very safe. You’ll be good to go!
But it’s a great time to check them and if you have an older model 3rd gen like me and can grease do it
The dealership used Waxoyl treatment to my undercarriage of my new 4Runner, it’s recommended by all of the Auto manufacturers
@@Jojo-ni2cg nice! I’ll look into it
@@teamoildrop I believe its the best product on the market.
How do you wash the fliud film from inside the chassis? For the coat for the following year.
@@noechavez9083 I dont! I just recoat
Awesome, thanks for letting me know 👍🏽
Biggest mistake i made was having dealership do undercoating when i purchased. That black gunk they use is HORRIBLE and they seriously made a mess especially on nuts&bolts.
What did they use? No thank you!
@@teamoildrop I can't recall the name but it was a black gooey sludge that is very difficult to remove from threads and anything else covered by it. Goof off even took some time to soften it up enough to use steel wire brush to clean it up. I should've known better than to purchase any extra product through dealership but I was nieve and knew rust prevention was a priority when I jumped into a Toyota truck. Live & learn.
Do you put the fluid film on first, or the rust reformer paint?
@@brookebrawley2142 fluid film is the final top coat 😎
Would you recommend just a gallon for Tacoma ?
@@3r8mo a gallon would be plenty honestly
Nice!
Thanks! 🍻
I bought a 2018 that had one owner. Well taken care of other than the rust underneath. They lived in Denver, Illinois, and Utah. Good amount of rust on the bottom. Honestly stressing me out. Feeling overwhelmed about the amount of rust I have to remove before applying this stuff, is it bad to just spray it over the top off the rust?
Nope, you can spray this over any already rusty areas, it will help severely slow down the progress of the rust, but obviously will work best if you remove the rust first!
-Austin
@@teamoildropthese videos are so helpful. About to throw 5100’s on. Thank you!
Hey guys, my ‘17 Taco is starting to get these rust bubbles around the plastic kick plate of the driver’s door. Is anyone else having this issue?
SUPER common, unfortunately. I just had a chat with a nice guy at a gas station here in new york that showed me is 23 was already doing it. Water tends tosit in this area. You can very easily pop the kicker panel up and carefully put some rust protection in there.
@@teamoildrop Right on, thanks for the advice! I’m in NE PA and it’s to be expected I suppose, I try to keep the truck clean and I spray the under carriage with rust oleum. These bubbles have rust rings coming up through the paint. I almost feel like I need to sand it down then repaint it. Or maybe sand it down and use some undercoating?
@@atombomburmom7491 biggest piece of advice I can give you brother is hop in the discord and show us some pics
Pull those alignment cam bolts off now and add some anti seize. Thank me later.
Yep those are a commonly seized item that should get some lube/antiseize from time to time!
-Austin
No need to paint if rust is light. Same the money for beer!!! Ya have your sister come visit you in the fall. She'll have more patience and you will need to hit the high wear spots and you'll see where you missed. Good thing is the next app will only use about a 1/3 gallon. I didn't see but hit the spare tire chain and rim if it's still the stock spare. Hope you installed all the mods under there!! It's real fun to run wires or mount stuff. With the cans spray the door drain holes, pop the hood and spray the front lip of the hood and then get the inside fender between the plastic wheel well. Tail gate take of the plastic and spray that also. Note it will drip out on your bumper but just wipe it of daily until it stops. Great vid!!
Ha! Yeah… I know you don’t NEED to worry about the light surface rust, that’s why I kept it under recommended. But I’ll be darned if I let rust grow or stay.
The internals of the tire joist has been greased in another video with some red but I shot it up regardless 😌 I think a lot of shots get lost in editing to not eat too much run time.
Door drains and tailgates, great idea!
@@teamoildrop Make sure you get the corners good and well so the water has no place to sit!!
@@teamoildrop No worries I'm just throwing in my two cents just in case you did miss an area. The roads here in Minnesota look like they have snow on them but it's just a 1/4 of packed salt during the winter. I'm sure that N.Y. is the same way since we buy our salt from there.
@@cbayless4294 no I definitely appreciate it. I’m going to be ready this winter ❄️
How did you manage to do this at a quarter car wash without getting kicked out?…
@@aaronosborn7395 I only cleaned at the car wash
Stuff WREAKS but it does the trick🤢
Surface shield wreaks? I found fluid film out of the gallon wasn’t bad at all. A bit stinkier in the can when it had propellants mixed with it.
Surface shield in spray can wasn't too bad but fluid film in the bulk paint can stinks pretty bad. We do our work trucks,plows and salt conveyors with it via a paint/spray gun and yea it's stinky stinky like urine sitting in a bowl for days stinky IMO but maybe that doesn't go for all lanolin based products?
@@teamoildrop not that this should deter ppl from using it because the odor dissipates and I'd rather have a temporarily smelly truck than no truck at all in a few years of non rust prevention.
It might be my post covid nose… idk… I just find it not bad. I haven’t smelled it since application and it’s parked right next to me… odd 🤔