Oh cool, it brings back memories of when I was around 10 years old. I didn't have much money, so I went to a car graveyard to purchase one from a nice guy who owned the place. I paid $5.00 in 1973, but it came with all the basic electronics. My dad gave me an old car battery. My mom was not aware of my project, but my dad did lol. I assembled the turbine with random pieces of aluminum sheets some workshop leftovers I got for free. Anyway, I was able to install it near our tree house as there was a wind corridor because of the path leading to the family cottage. It worked and we were able to power lights and a car radio. No inverter though, just 12 volts of DC power. The battery charged as the turbine turned. It worked for a couple of years until a storm with 100 Km/h wind destroyed it. Anyway, thanks for sharing your video showing your cool project.
Great video, thank you! Also, if you have any personal concerns about your English - do not be concerned. I have hearing loss, and even without my hearing aids in - I can understand you, just fine. :) Your English is very good!
I have been watching there video from 2years even though they have less subs and views there quality contant is way high .I hope they are recognised and respected because they have earned it.
10 out of 10 for effort and engineering skills. I thought this would work and was looking forward in making my own. I would imagine a gear system will allow RPM to increase enough.
I agree definitely 10/10 on engineering skills. Maybe this footnote will assist others and yourself while you look for a way to change the drive ratios. I haven't built my own turbine yet because I'm still working on other projects that are required to come first. Anyway refrigerators in general use 300 to 800 watts of electricity and between 3 and 6 amps at about 120 volts. A 1hp well pump uses 750 watts. If it operates on 220 volts Alternators need to spin about 2,400 rpm at idle, their maximum output is above 6,000 rpm but not to exceed 8000rpm. Best wishes and good luck!
@@kingdavidson7430 So far the commercial home wind turbine only produces about 100-150 watts per hour per unit with average wind speed of 4-5 meter/s, and cost ranging $1500-5000 per unit (the good one, or famous one at least), break even twice than solar panel, ranging 15-25 year.
@@stevenwilliams2601 Gear ratio of 27:1 with Planetary gears stacked in 3 could help. Might need to search other DC motor / electric generator in reverse that has 6 or 8 poles.
Play with the gear ratio, and I would recommend using a small solar panel to charge a super capacitor to excite the rotor coils (field winding) then once the alternator is producing voltage it could charge the super capacitor to keep the field winding energized.
A large gear (say 60 teeth) takes longer to do a full rotation than smaller gear (say 12 teeth) will. I have seen this work and will increase the rpm, unfortunately the way that this turbine is set up it would require a rework as the blades would me the large gear and there is no option to gear it like a mountain bike in configuration. If you can find an old series from the Discovery Channel called “The Colony” they do it in season one.
@daveapplemotors that is the reason behind the super capacitors, but the solar panels are primarily intended to provide energy to the system for the excitation current during the initial period from a dead stop to operating speed. Once the system is generating power it will keep the capacitors charged. Now assuming that the capacitors become depleted after sunset, you can either have an auxiliary battery or a connection to the primary storage batteries through all relevant circuitry.
You must add a gearbox to increase rpm and also use the turbine with a flywheel to get power from air by increasing cross sectional area of blades however you have done a good job well done.
You could use the current turbine blades and gear up the alternator speed by having a simple two wheel pulley system. You could do a 15cm wheel on a 5 cm wheel with a belt connecting them with a 2cm gap and that would do about 700 rpm without taking up too much extra space.
Hi. I think like me that viewers come to learn how to convert the alternator to produce energy from the wind. Sorry but you spent way too much time showing your build of the frame which has nothing to do with the alternator to wind energy process so I'm looking for another vid.
yes, the thing is car alternator needs high rpm and high turque to generate power, and if he connected any real load to it the wind turbine would have stalled, if u want wind power u need a realy big turbine with 2m long blades and and a gear or pully to increase speed on the generator, or use low rpm generators.
This is good for a first try. I'm interested to know what brand and model that alternator is - looks like a pretty beefy car alternator with a good-sized stator for a small wind turbine. Most car alternators are too small for a wind turbine of this size. As others have pointed out, supermagnets can be added to establish a strong magnetic field, then you would be able to make better power at your relatively low RPM. That is how most small wind turbines are built these days. Forget the many suggestions to add ratio gearing - no successful small turbine uses gears, belt-drive, or chain-drive. That is just what people with no experience always try, but leanr the hard way it just introduces moe failure points. They are noisy and do not last, and are not necessary if you just use strong magnets in the alternator. I've built many wind turbines and I would say those blades might "work", but some better blades would help. And that disc, and the steel strips the blades are attached to, are too wimpy to handle strong winds. This thing would be "blown to smithereens" in a strong wind. But very good for a first effort! Most people by far underestimate the strength required for high winds. The furling tail looks like it works well. Overspeed protection is essential, and it looks like you realize that. I am pretty impressed with a nice, clean build, and you at least got it working. A few minor, and one or two major, adjustments, and you will have a nice, power-producing machine! :)
Great job. Please develop a part 2 of this video and please advise the Brand name of the Alternator, and the part no. Or the motorized application ( which vehicle you “borrowed” it from ). Thanks !!
What you need is some sort of device to stop it from swinging in the wind when you go up on the roof to do maintenance. One gust of wind in the wrong direction and someone loses their face.
If I'm not mistaken the hoverboard motors u used in previous vids have n52 mags in.. try removing them. Or. Being a diy channel old hard drives.. they each got 1 in. . And they should be wide enough for that stator
A pro tip: Whenever building wind power generator, always go for low rm alternators. If necessary add gear mechanism to compensate the rpm issue. When you will add gears, you will need huge wind-power to rotate it, so make the blades larger and experiment with various blade shapes.
One thing about this video is the nice, quiet background music / you need to get a low-friction transfer case onto the hub of the alternator to step up the RPMs of the alternator. Even doubling the RPMs would give you some output.
Awesome project! I am finally learning about permanent magnet brushless ac and dc motors. Even though I have raced rc cars, built and fly drones for years i just started learning about this and I love it!
Power is the cube of wind speed guys , if it's possible get it on a 6m pole with guy wires to support and a swivel with counterweight so you can bring it down easy. Well done on your efforts ;-)))))
Great Video! You are right to worry about RPM, a car alternator needs to turn at 3500-5000 RPM to achieve its full field amperage. If you are not looking for peak amperage but instead voltage, use an overdrive mechanism through a planetary gear box and ensure you are using a WYE type stator in the alternator. I daydream about making a wind powered alternator generator and appreciate that you did the work to see it through to the end.
Indeed, your thoughts are worth reading. I hope you will soon get your hands dirty building one. We love to get such comments and that's why we together with you all bring this channel to the best possible projects that we can
Hi guys it is of very good job but I do not know what is the wind turbine, if you have any good of generating more power you can become a new company to sell your product on a lower price so that every Indian can purchase.
@@wombatg0 Really???? I would love to see you try to back up your comment. Just for comparison, the alternator pulley ratio on a Cummins Diesel is 3.22 which equates to an alternator RPM of 8,050 with an engine RPM of 3,000. Typically, The standard automotive gasoline engine alternators have their full output rated at 6000 RPM but can continue to spin up to 12,000 RPM or more without any additional increase in output.
I tried this once and was able to get a decent amount of power from a similiar setup. Gear ratio is definitely a game changer. I winder if there is a way to have variable gear ratio depending on the wind speed… i dont have an answer for this yet 🙂
A cvt transmission is the best option, the simple version that uses no control circuitry, is commonly found in snowmobiles while there are automotive versions. But with the right application of a snowmobile clutch/ cvt pulley is the easiest option that i can think of.
It needs to spin 2200 rpm to function normally, and for full power it needs to spin more than 6000rpm but not above 8000rpm for too long because it will shorten its lifespan if it will not damage it, so in conclusion car alternators are pain in the ass if there are used for another purpose than in cars
Hi. The windmill was almost certainly too small to turn alternator fast enough. A car alternator needs several horsepower to deliver the watts. Alternators give about 350 watts, and assuming 30% efficiency that means a one-two h.p. propeller at least. Very skilled video performance, well done. Cheers, P.R.
You must be 127yrs old, you can remember the output of the first alternator installed on a production model vehicle and the phase out of generators in auto use. Tell me, was that soon after -ve earthing became the standard and 6V was phased out haha. Meant in jest, but seriously your figures are way off. Electrical load demand on modern vehicles now with bluetooth this, sync that, infotainment, screens, high power audio, heated everything from glass, arse, to mirrors, 2 billion times the computational capabilities of the Apollo moon lander and more ECU's than the space shuttle means alternators in standard 12V vehicle regularly approach and exceed 100A rated capability. I'm sure you probably don't need a maths lesson so I no need to throw power figures around except to say that's significantly more than 350W. That alternator was commercial 24V (not my area, light motor vehicle for me) so current rating would be inversely proportional for the same power, handy for that type of project working with less current . The vehicles generally have high electrical demand also (did you see the size of that sucker?) starting a high cc diesel and feeding a couple of 25kg+ 200Ah or so batteries, so I reckon if they shared the spec that thing is easy good for 75A, at a charging voltage of say 27V, so 350W?? Oh, and by the way, I think you underestimate the power of wind and fluid/aero dynamics. Yes is was rudimentary, but the spinny thing was plenty huge enough to drive it (with some gearing). Nearly 30yrs ago a friend used an old steel bladed radiator fan (adjusted pitch I assume) no bigger than 18" with a scrapyard alternator driven by belt mounted on the roof of his garage (come man cave), and a standard 12V starting battery as storage/smoothing/capacitance to run a CB radio and car stereo (maybe some lights, I cant remember) and in a mild wind it would power everything without draining the battery ;)
@@bobbobovich4356 Hi Bob. Well done, I'm 128 next birthday. It's all candles and a ruined cake for me. Too much irrelevant stuff in your post, mate. F.Y.I. the power available from any windmill is proportional to the CUBE of the airspeed passing through it. It's the VOLUME of air that does the work, volume being a cubic measurement. The one in the video would run the alternator nicely in a category five hurricane (about 256 kph), but quickly self destruct. At normal wind speeds it wouldn't rip the skin off a rice pudding, there's not enough kinetic energy in the small volume of air passing through it per second. Gearing it up won't help. Try pedaling a bike up a steep hill in high gear if you don't believe me. Before eager beavers spend their hard earned money on a dodgy project, they should understand the cube law importance in windspeed, because it limits the maximum energy available. Commercial wind generators only work because they have huge volumes of air passing through. Now excuse me, I'm off to finish a homework project. Cheers, P.R.
@@daveapplemotors Hi Dave. Good point. Wattage varies with requirements of the vehicle. My "ballpark" figure of 350 watts probably applies more to a bus or long-haul truck generator running extra lights and air conditioning. My point that you can't get any more power out of an electric generator than its power input (vee belt, windmill) puts in is correct however. Inserting gearing between the drive and the generator will not increase the amount of power that can be extracted. If it was possible, perpetual motion machines would be exist. Cheers, P.R.
This is the video I have been looking for. I planned to construct an identical one for experimental purpose. Alas..now I have no idea to go ahead..thanks a lot..
Nice to see utilising the basic idea of wind generation but for deep knowledge you should study further for optimum production with less power/ RPM of wind power.
Hello bro, you are doing just amazing. You are much appreciated. English is just language, not the knowledge. You already got knowledge, so keep it up. Only loosers will exploit you. The way you are editing videos is awsome. Thumbs up, keep it up.
On rotor, by grinding /make space for magnets we can do.. . But question can we put magnet (in two parts) from magnetron of microwave.. Do u reply for experience
Habéis hecho un gran video y un gran trabajo que selo habéis curado, creo que lo único que os ha faltado es montarle en el rotor de 4 a 5 imanes de deodimio , en una posición de norte sur norte sur y hubiera aumentado el voltaje y el amperaje, enhorabuena por el trabajo realizado, un abrazo
👍👍 First time I am seeing a video, which truly says that the expected voltage is not achieved so more (research & trials) are needed. Truly appreciate it. Dr NPSingh ONGC Dehradun
Only thing I would do differently is just use strong magnets to create the magnetic field so you’re not relying on an external battery source. Other than that I think you did an awesome job.
You could increase the slternator/wind rotor RPM ratio by interposing some sort of multiplying gears or, cheaper still, a bicycle chain and sprocket between rotor shaft and alternator.
A 4 to 1 reduction ratio would have probably worked just fine. Though I didn't notice whether or not you had slip rings installed on the mast head so the turbine could freely rotate 360 degrees without worrying about wire binding the turning radius? You could probably fashion a set of mast head slip rings off of another car alternator.
Excellent job I want to see more of your work high tech a lot of work into it but you did what everybody else don't do you show the work and not talk about bs everybody else that has to say they're livelihood thank you for being real and thank you for being professional I want to see more of your videos I learned a lot thanks
First of all car alternators are not designed for axial loading. They are designed only for a rotary or lateral load. There is no internal thrust bearing. And so, when you mount a turbine directly on the shaft, you are causing a great deal of wear that is far outside the design envelope of the alternator. And so you need the turbine to be mounted on its own shaft, with a thrust bearing of some sort. A simple tapered roller bearing is fine. Then you want to drive the alternator with a belt or chain or other mechanical linkage that only passes lateral or rotational force to the alternator from the turbine. So you can easily change the reduction ratio to give you an optimized torque/speed profile. I suggest you start your experimenting with a turbine pulley twice the size of the alternator pulley, so for every turbine rotation, you get two alternator rotations. Your charge controller can be set to apply the correct electrical load on the alternator. You will most likely want a much bigger turbine rotor, too. Remember this, one horsepower equals approximately 746 watts. That is with perfect conversion efficiency, which of course you cannot have, no matter how hard you try. I am guessing just intuitively that your rotor will max out at around 1/10 HP. Because you cannot vary the blade angle of attack to compensate for load and wind speed, your turbine will reach a point of diminishing return probably before the wind is strong enough to destroy it. I was once shown by a very bright engineer that to achieve a kilowatt output from a wind turbine in my geographic region, with any regularity at all, I needed a rotor disk with a swept area of at least 10 foot radius. Whew. No thanks. I didn't want blades that big spinning at just subsonic speed and possibly breaking loose and becoming projectiles. But do be aware that if you want a more meaningful output, in addition to other optimizations, you MUST have a bigger turbine. If you used say 8" diameter schedule 80 PVC pipe, and made your blades maybe 5 feet long, for a bit over 10 foot diameter swept area, you would have a significant power harvester there. It's all about the swept area. Well, mostly, anyway. Double the radius and you quadruple the area! Honestly, a car alternator and small turbine are probably only going to give you at MOST about 500 watts of power under ideal conditions. 100 to 150 watts is more typical. And yes, replacing the rotor windings with a toroidal magnet will increase your efficiency slightly, but a magnet big and strong enough to do the job will be expensive. You can supply field current in several ways. The best way is to use the alternator to charge a bank of 12V deep cycle (not car batteries!) flooded lead acid batteries through the original voltage regulator. The stock unit with stock regulator and rectifier is fairly efficient and very simple. It just works. So let the reg sense the battery voltage and it will supply more power when the battery voltage drops, less power when the battery is fully charged. Then the battery is providing the field energy, and accepting the charge output, plus storing energy for when the wind stops. Be sure to install redundant diodes to prevent back feeding the alternator, which can drain a battery very quickly. NEVER disconnect the voltage sense wires while the alternator is turning, our you risk frying the diodes! Other than that, this is a pretty simple and idiot proof project. I would like to point out one thing, though. The pitch of the rotor blade should vary from blade root to blade tip. At the tips, the blade is turning very fast, in terms of speed through the air. So the vector diagram of true wind vs relative wind, from the blade dip, will indicate a need for a very low pitch, in other words the blade more flat to the wind. However if you use the same low pitch near the root of the blade, where the speed of the blade through the air is much lower due to the shorter distance it must travel in a revolution, then your blade root is in a stall condition. So you want a much higher pitch. In other words, the blade at the root should be closer to edge-on to the wind. You can achieve this blade twist without twisting the PVC material by simply twisting the design as drawn on the pipe. This varies the angle of attack of the blade nicely. You can experiment with different rates of change and different base pitch and get significant increase in efficiency. Also you do not need to taper the tips quite so much. Be sure to fair and smooth both leading and trailing edges of the blades, too. Don't forget to put a fuse in your charge output cable! I suggest a fuse rated for your alternator rating. Don't take a chance of burning out your alternator or other components. Use BIG cable if you can afford it. For a typical 70 amp alternator and with a run of say 30 feet to the battery bank, I suggest 1AWG or 2AWG stranded copper welding cable. In a low power DC system, it is extremely important to reduce line losses. Yes, the actual accepted wire size for that voltage and current is much smaller. That is not the efficient size, merely the safe size. The welding cable is very flexible and easy to work with, and can be had for a reasonable price per foot.
Great video shows the difficulty in pioneering and engineering things . Im Sure with gearing or modifications you can make it worthwhile . May is also ask what is the reason to choose an alternative over a motor / dynamo ? Thanks
13:40 the blade seems to move on the opposite direction of the angle of attack. And also I don't see that much wind gushing since the nearby objects are pretty much stationary. Don't get me wrong, it's a doubt. Will be happy if you cleared it out. Btw love your workshop, wanna build one myself. 👍🏻
That is a vacuum pump in the back of that alternator. It is what Isuzu (and others) use for their hydraulic brake boost system, in their small/ medium cab over trucks as the diesel engine produces no vacuum to assist in braking.
Take a heart gun or torch and heat the blades till flexible. Lower the pitch towards the outside of the blades. It will make less turbulence and spin faster.
Guys Your doing a Great Work..! Extremely Happy to see Such skillfull work. But please wear safety gloves while working...! Safety is First Priority...!
I suggest make the mounting pole more rigid as the any swaying movement will effect overall stability and wind direction through blades interrupted thus alowing RPM goodluck 👍
Would a stepper motor used as a generator give more power? I would think whatever you use it will be necessary to gear up the windmill rpm. Very good video.
If you reduce the current to the rotor then this would reduce the drag and maybe increase the rpm. This is how the alternator regulator works to control the voltage.
Great video for educational purposes but is there a part two to see if you nail down the blade design and got enough RPMs to charge batteries. Saw some solar panels so wondering if this works in conjunction with solar panels as well
It is obvious that you need 2to1 ratio gear to double the speed of the alternator . You get two gears larder gear fixed to the shaft coming from the blade assembly and smaller gear on the shift of the alternator . You will need a self lubricating bearing and a frame to hold the blade assembly sub frame .offsetting from the alternator
great work, brothers... keep up the DIY power supply for those of us who don't have an engineering cell in our brain! When you perfect a source, I hope you'll post it for us to replicate. Greg (garden grove, CA)
i would suggest to copy the design of a clip fan and make it in multiple phase 8layer by 4 neodymium magnets, back front and give it a bridge circuit , mine got 2kw an hour on a modest wind youll prob get 3-5 in your place
It would be easier, and even economical, to take advantage of the brushless motor of an electric scooter wheel, of which they are an integral part of the wheel, it would generate three-phase voltage, so you put a regulator-rectifier of the kind used by motorcycles with large displacement, and you would have regulated DC voltage ready to charge a 12 volt battery
Alternators are typically designed to provide the best output at 6000 RPM. You should look at a gear ratio to help increase the speed. Also, the output voltage may be the same as the input voltage, but the output current should be a lot higher.
If you drag water from uphill whit tubes to your house and use them on some pillars that tubes come to your house from above at height you can use m x g x h formula to produce energy with regular water that you use for house and garden , all you need is aerial tubes that bring water from uphill at height then tubes at 90 degrees could bring down water on a water turbine in your house and produce energy near your house whit the water turbine , pillars used need to be very heavy and that is all
@DIY King Good Job. Use Rare earth magnets, around 16 magnets placed N, S configuration on 8 inch OD steel disc and suitable Air core copper coils, this is otherwise axial generator, which can freely spin at low wind speed without any cogging.
I would suggest getting atleast 3 HP motor. Rewind it to fill max of the slots using required number of turns and maximum thickness of wire gauge possible to increase energy efficiency. Then drill holes or cut grooves in the stator neatly so as to fit neodynum magnets. Or somehow get customized neodynum magnet rotor that can do the job. You can get maximum efficiency by making 3 phase system and then converting the output to DC using 3 phase bridge rectifier and capacitor bank to smoothen the DC output. Use proper gear ratio to maintain the RPM to match with the generator. Since the speed will vary due to wind speed, i would recommend using DC system so that equipments do not malfunction.
OK buddy you got my respect - I detest what our politicians and global corporates are doing to our economies - via so called renewable energy....... For they are breaking what already works.... However we can counter their madness with vids like this...... And empower oursleves at least to some extent against their corporate madness....................
I think your almost there ! Your in need of a step gear system , consider bicycle sprockets . Also , I think you may be asking a lot from your wind mill , at least to power that size alternator . Consider 15 amp 12 v john deer garden tracktor alt. May be more realistic for load match .it will still charge a deep cycle battery. Nice video by the way !
Alternator is activated by one of the pins on the voltage regulator. You just have to just a wire either from ground or hot to activate. Also that keeps your storage battery from being drained when the alternator is not spinning. I don't have all the equipment or tools your using. There are much simpler ways of doing this.
Very good presentation. Your fast paced video has done exactly as it should. Just enough information to stimulate others into thinking and sharing. Look into old wind driven well pumps to solve the over-speed issues. Thanks for posting.
What type of motor you wanna use? Liam F1 Archimedes blade is dope. Gear ratio of 27:1 with Planetary Gearbox stacked in 3 would be great. How about vertical wind turbine?
Good idea, I'd suggest putting a Pulley system and adjusting the diameter ratios accordingly. And also instead of using pipes , you can do a diy of fiberglass and mould it yourself . This also reduces the weight and it's stronger than PVC pipes
i ues a leg of leg of one of the phase of the sate in rectifier & Now dc in to a copastor & back to the the burses & from the negative brush to the body of the alternator as the wind pick's up the alternator grows in speed & Bild charge in the run copastor delivers a steady voltage to the rotter as the sped increase's the prudish charging amps, An option is is to clang the copastor for vibrating pint regulated this works well & that will provide a regulate dc current to the rooter only . if we are to charge at a dist. To a bank of batteries , we should modify the stator in to a 3 phase to a Y stat that can travel the distance to the battery bank & the rectify at battery bank .
Oh cool, it brings back memories of when I was around 10 years old. I didn't have much money, so I went to a car graveyard to purchase one from a nice guy who owned the place. I paid $5.00 in 1973, but it came with all the basic electronics. My dad gave me an old car battery. My mom was not aware of my project, but my dad did lol. I assembled the turbine with random pieces of aluminum sheets some workshop leftovers I got for free. Anyway, I was able to install it near our tree house as there was a wind corridor because of the path leading to the family cottage. It worked and we were able to power lights and a car radio. No inverter though, just 12 volts of DC power. The battery charged as the turbine turned. It worked for a couple of years until a storm with 100 Km/h wind destroyed it. Anyway, thanks for sharing your video showing your cool project.
Great video, thank you! Also, if you have any personal concerns about your English - do not be concerned. I have hearing loss, and even without my hearing aids in - I can understand you, just fine. :) Your English is very good!
😂
I have been watching there video from 2years even though they have less subs and views there quality contant is way high .I hope they are recognised and respected because they have earned it.
You guys are the reason we love to share our work and learn new things.
@@DIYKingSaM thanks man .
10 out of 10 for effort and engineering skills. I thought this would work and was looking forward in making my own. I would imagine a gear system will allow RPM to increase enough.
wasted alternator, steel pieces and PVC pipe. it's 1\10 man
I agree definitely 10/10 on engineering skills. Maybe this footnote will assist others and yourself while you look for a way to change the drive ratios. I haven't built my own turbine yet because I'm still working on other projects that are required to come first. Anyway refrigerators in general use 300 to 800 watts of electricity and between 3 and 6 amps at about 120 volts.
A 1hp well pump uses 750 watts. If it operates on 220 volts
Alternators need to spin about 2,400 rpm at idle, their maximum output is above 6,000 rpm but not to exceed 8000rpm. Best wishes and good luck!
@@stevenwilliams2601Could it just charge a battery like Tesla wall then use it when there's an emergency?
@@kingdavidson7430 So far the commercial home wind turbine only produces about 100-150 watts per hour per unit with average wind speed of 4-5 meter/s, and cost ranging $1500-5000 per unit (the good one, or famous one at least), break even twice than solar panel, ranging 15-25 year.
@@stevenwilliams2601 Gear ratio of 27:1 with Planetary gears stacked in 3 could help. Might need to search other DC motor / electric generator in reverse that has 6 or 8 poles.
Play with the gear ratio, and I would recommend using a small solar panel to charge a super capacitor to excite the rotor coils (field winding) then once the alternator is producing voltage it could charge the super capacitor to keep the field winding energized.
can you explain how will it increse the power
A large gear (say 60 teeth) takes longer to do a full rotation than smaller gear (say 12 teeth) will. I have seen this work and will increase the rpm, unfortunately the way that this turbine is set up it would require a rework as the blades would me the large gear and there is no option to gear it like a mountain bike in configuration. If you can find an old series from the Discovery Channel called “The Colony” they do it in season one.
wish I'd thought of that .. ;) .. " charge a super capacitor " ..
At night?
@daveapplemotors that is the reason behind the super capacitors, but the solar panels are primarily intended to provide energy to the system for the excitation current during the initial period from a dead stop to operating speed. Once the system is generating power it will keep the capacitors charged. Now assuming that the capacitors become depleted after sunset, you can either have an auxiliary battery or a connection to the primary storage batteries through all relevant circuitry.
You must add a gearbox to increase rpm and also use the turbine with a flywheel to get power from air by increasing cross sectional area of blades however you have done a good job well done.
No.
You could use the current turbine blades and gear up the alternator speed by having a simple two wheel pulley system. You could do a 15cm wheel on a 5 cm wheel with a belt connecting them with a 2cm gap and that would do about 700 rpm without taking up too much extra space.
No!
Hi. I think like me that viewers come to learn how to convert the alternator to produce energy from the wind. Sorry but you spent way too much time showing your build of the frame which has nothing to do with the alternator to wind energy process so I'm looking for another vid.
& we are not recommending this channel and blocking this mf
He literally says to connect directly to the motor and brushes rather than the alternator rectifier
That's how to increase the voltage output
yes, the thing is car alternator needs high rpm and high turque to generate power, and if he connected any real load to it the wind turbine would have stalled, if u want wind power u need a realy big turbine with 2m long blades and and a gear or pully to increase speed on the generator, or use low rpm generators.
Your English is fine ! Don't worry.....your doing great!
Thanks bro
This is good for a first try. I'm interested to know what brand and model that alternator is - looks like a pretty beefy car alternator with a good-sized stator for a small wind turbine. Most car alternators are too small for a wind turbine of this size. As others have pointed out, supermagnets can be added to establish a strong magnetic field, then you would be able to make better power at your relatively low RPM. That is how most small wind turbines are built these days. Forget the many suggestions to add ratio gearing - no successful small turbine uses gears, belt-drive, or chain-drive. That is just what people with no experience always try, but leanr the hard way it just introduces moe failure points. They are noisy and do not last, and are not necessary if you just use strong magnets in the alternator. I've built many wind turbines and I would say those blades might "work", but some better blades would help. And that disc, and the steel strips the blades are attached to, are too wimpy to handle strong winds. This thing would be "blown to smithereens" in a strong wind. But very good for a first effort! Most people by far underestimate the strength required for high winds. The furling tail looks like it works well. Overspeed protection is essential, and it looks like you realize that. I am pretty impressed with a nice, clean build, and you at least got it working. A few minor, and one or two major, adjustments, and you will have a nice, power-producing machine! :)
Could you give some idea/details of these strong magnets?
The ones i found in computer HDDs do not last due to rust.
Thnx
Q²9³
Great job. Please develop a part 2 of this video and please advise the Brand name of the Alternator, and the part no. Or the motorized application ( which vehicle you “borrowed” it from ). Thanks !!
What you need is some sort of device to stop it from swinging in the wind when you go up on the roof to do maintenance.
One gust of wind in the wrong direction and someone loses their face.
If u use permanent magnets on the rotor u will get your required voltage at a much lower rpm. No need for gears. As long as it's a strong 🧲 like n52
Well said mate 👍 and it's hard to rotate the blades if they add gears, better with Permanent magnets ;)
Yes we are looking for these magnets, hope to find the right ones soon and get the next part .
If I'm not mistaken the hoverboard motors u used in previous vids have n52 mags in.. try removing them. Or. Being a diy channel old hard drives.. they each got 1 in. . And they should be wide enough for that stator
I really admire your wind turbine manufacturing skills and I am researching wind power development. Thank you for sharing.
Higher rpm will produce less current. Car alternators have a sweet spot where it peaks. Research the unit before designing.
A pro tip: Whenever building wind power generator, always go for low rm alternators. If necessary add gear mechanism to compensate the rpm issue. When you will add gears, you will need huge wind-power to rotate it, so make the blades larger and experiment with various blade shapes.
Unfortunately i saw your video is very late
I appreciate your effort the way you make all things
Excellent idea and performance
One thing about this video is the nice, quiet background music / you need to get a low-friction transfer case onto the hub of the alternator to step up the RPMs of the alternator. Even doubling the RPMs would give you some output.
Awesome project! I am finally learning about permanent magnet brushless ac and dc motors. Even though I have raced rc cars, built and fly drones for years i just started learning about this and I love it!
Power is the cube of wind speed guys , if it's possible get it on a 6m pole with guy wires to support and a swivel with counterweight so you can bring it down easy. Well done on your efforts ;-)))))
Great Video! You are right to worry about RPM, a car alternator needs to turn at 3500-5000 RPM to achieve its full field amperage. If you are not looking for peak amperage but instead voltage, use an overdrive mechanism through a planetary gear box and ensure you are using a WYE type stator in the alternator. I daydream about making a wind powered alternator generator and appreciate that you did the work to see it through to the end.
Indeed, your thoughts are worth reading. I hope you will soon get your hands dirty building one.
We love to get such comments and that's why we together with you all bring this channel to the best possible projects that we can
Hi guys it is of very good job but I do not know what is the wind turbine, if you have any good of generating more power you can become a new company to sell your product on a lower price so that every Indian can purchase.
Use one from a diesel - these run at half the rpm :)
@@wombatg0 Really???? I would love to see you try to back up your comment. Just for comparison, the alternator pulley ratio on a Cummins Diesel is 3.22 which equates to an alternator RPM of 8,050 with an engine RPM of 3,000. Typically, The standard automotive gasoline engine alternators have their full output rated at 6000 RPM but can continue to spin up to 12,000 RPM or more without any additional increase in output.
@@PH_INFO_101 I believe 3000rpm for my motorbike
Don't ever think of getting disappointed, u people have done great , success is at your door step ,, keep the hopes up ,,
I tried this once and was able to get a decent amount of power from a similiar setup. Gear ratio is definitely a game changer. I winder if there is a way to have variable gear ratio depending on the wind speed… i dont have an answer for this yet 🙂
A cvt transmission is the best option, the simple version that uses no control circuitry, is commonly found in snowmobiles while there are automotive versions. But with the right application of a snowmobile clutch/ cvt pulley is the easiest option that i can think of.
Put on a heavy flywheel , use some external power to get it going first.
That's my theory anyway!!
What's your gear ratio? Acquiring Planetary Gearbox seems tricky. Check out Archimedes blade of Liam F1
Normally an car alternator needs to spin at 2000 rpm to achieve full power.
It needs to spin 2200 rpm to function normally, and for full power it needs to spin more than 6000rpm but not above 8000rpm for too long because it will shorten its lifespan if it will not damage it, so in conclusion car alternators are pain in the ass if there are used for another purpose than in cars
Hi. The windmill was almost certainly too small to turn alternator fast enough. A car alternator needs several horsepower to deliver the watts. Alternators give about 350 watts, and assuming 30% efficiency that means a one-two h.p. propeller at least. Very skilled video performance, well done. Cheers, P.R.
You must be 127yrs old, you can remember the output of the first alternator installed on a production model vehicle and the phase out of generators in auto use. Tell me, was that soon after -ve earthing became the standard and 6V was phased out haha. Meant in jest, but seriously your figures are way off. Electrical load demand on modern vehicles now with bluetooth this, sync that, infotainment, screens, high power audio, heated everything from glass, arse, to mirrors, 2 billion times the computational capabilities of the Apollo moon lander and more ECU's than the space shuttle means alternators in standard 12V vehicle regularly approach and exceed 100A rated capability. I'm sure you probably don't need a maths lesson so I no need to throw power figures around except to say that's significantly more than 350W. That alternator was commercial 24V (not my area, light motor vehicle for me) so current rating would be inversely proportional for the same power, handy for that type of project working with less current . The vehicles generally have high electrical demand also (did you see the size of that sucker?) starting a high cc diesel and feeding a couple of 25kg+ 200Ah or so batteries, so I reckon if they shared the spec that thing is easy good for 75A, at a charging voltage of say 27V, so 350W?? Oh, and by the way, I think you underestimate the power of wind and fluid/aero dynamics. Yes is was rudimentary, but the spinny thing was plenty huge enough to drive it (with some gearing). Nearly 30yrs ago a friend used an old steel bladed radiator fan (adjusted pitch I assume) no bigger than 18" with a scrapyard alternator driven by belt mounted on the roof of his garage (come man cave), and a standard 12V starting battery as storage/smoothing/capacitance to run a CB radio and car stereo (maybe some lights, I cant remember) and in a mild wind it would power everything without draining the battery ;)
@@bobbobovich4356 Hi Bob. Well done, I'm 128 next birthday. It's all candles and a ruined cake for me.
Too much irrelevant stuff in your post, mate. F.Y.I. the power available from any windmill is proportional to the CUBE of the airspeed passing through it. It's the VOLUME of air that does the work, volume being a cubic measurement. The one in the video would run the alternator nicely in a category five hurricane (about 256 kph), but quickly self destruct. At normal wind speeds it wouldn't rip the skin off a rice pudding, there's not enough kinetic energy in the small volume of air passing through it per second. Gearing it up won't help. Try pedaling a bike up a steep hill in high gear if you don't believe me.
Before eager beavers spend their hard earned money on a dodgy project, they should understand the cube law importance in windspeed, because it limits the maximum energy available. Commercial wind generators only work because they have huge volumes of air passing through. Now excuse me, I'm off to finish a homework project. Cheers, P.R.
A 100 watt car alternator is heavy duty, right. 350 watts?
@@daveapplemotors Hi Dave. Good point. Wattage varies with requirements of the vehicle. My "ballpark" figure of 350 watts probably applies more to a bus or long-haul truck generator running extra lights and air conditioning. My point that you can't get any more power out of an electric generator than its power input (vee belt, windmill) puts in is correct however. Inserting gearing between the drive and the generator will not increase the amount of power that can be extracted. If it was possible, perpetual motion machines would be exist. Cheers, P.R.
@@daveapplemotors100w at 12v is only a bit more than 8A. Most passenger vehicles alternator are rated above 100A. Converted to watts that's over 1kw
How much effort is required is unmatcable great video
This is the video I have been looking for. I planned to construct an identical one for experimental purpose. Alas..now I have no idea to go ahead..thanks a lot..
Nice to see utilising the basic idea of wind generation but for deep knowledge you should study further for optimum production with less power/ RPM of wind power.
Hi it's a great video with great technical work can you please come forward to put these superb hand to hand technology ideas in schools
Bravo.........know balance....I see a shaker .... and variable pitch blades for high speed wind........ great job..........cheers
Hello bro, you are doing just amazing. You are much appreciated. English is just language, not the knowledge. You already got knowledge, so keep it up. Only loosers will exploit you. The way you are editing videos is awsome. Thumbs up, keep it up.
The easiest way is changing the rotor to a permanent magnet rotor instead
On rotor, by grinding /make space for magnets we can do..
. But question can we put magnet (in two parts) from magnetron of microwave.. Do u reply for experience
@Raga - No, that is not easy.
Habéis hecho un gran video y un gran trabajo que selo habéis curado, creo que lo único que os ha faltado es montarle en el rotor de 4 a 5 imanes de deodimio , en una posición de norte sur norte sur y hubiera aumentado el voltaje y el amperaje, enhorabuena por el trabajo realizado, un abrazo
saudações brasileiras aos amigos............um projeto muito bacana e a execução realmente ficou de primeira, parabens
Thankyou for giving this information out to the world. may people use this idea to better their lives
👍👍
First time I am seeing a video, which truly says that the expected voltage is not achieved so more (research & trials) are needed.
Truly appreciate it.
Dr NPSingh ONGC Dehradun
watching from Bangladesh. You guys are very talented.
Love your channel but I was waiting for the end result.
Why not try a 24 Volt ALTERNATOR and see the difference ?
Respect from South Africa.
If I make a turbine with an alternator using a separate battery, can I use it for many years?
Mount your rotor blades separate from the alternator so you can use a pulley to get your required RPMs to your alternator
Brother always have a first aid kit in your work place .great work.
Only thing I would do differently is just use strong magnets to create the magnetic field so you’re not relying on an external battery source. Other than that I think you did an awesome job.
explain please.
How to use strong magnets
You could increase the slternator/wind rotor RPM ratio by interposing some sort of multiplying gears or, cheaper still, a bicycle chain and sprocket between rotor shaft and alternator.
A 4 to 1 reduction ratio would have probably worked just fine. Though I didn't notice whether or not you had slip rings installed on the mast head so the turbine could freely rotate 360 degrees without worrying about wire binding the turning radius? You could probably fashion a set of mast head slip rings off of another car alternator.
No, do not use gears.
Excellent job I want to see more of your work high tech a lot of work into it but you did what everybody else don't do you show the work and not talk about bs everybody else that has to say they're livelihood thank you for being real and thank you for being professional I want to see more of your videos I learned a lot thanks
First of all car alternators are not designed for axial loading. They are designed only for a rotary or lateral load. There is no internal thrust bearing. And so, when you mount a turbine directly on the shaft, you are causing a great deal of wear that is far outside the design envelope of the alternator. And so you need the turbine to be mounted on its own shaft, with a thrust bearing of some sort. A simple tapered roller bearing is fine. Then you want to drive the alternator with a belt or chain or other mechanical linkage that only passes lateral or rotational force to the alternator from the turbine. So you can easily change the reduction ratio to give you an optimized torque/speed profile. I suggest you start your experimenting with a turbine pulley twice the size of the alternator pulley, so for every turbine rotation, you get two alternator rotations. Your charge controller can be set to apply the correct electrical load on the alternator. You will most likely want a much bigger turbine rotor, too. Remember this, one horsepower equals approximately 746 watts. That is with perfect conversion efficiency, which of course you cannot have, no matter how hard you try. I am guessing just intuitively that your rotor will max out at around 1/10 HP. Because you cannot vary the blade angle of attack to compensate for load and wind speed, your turbine will reach a point of diminishing return probably before the wind is strong enough to destroy it. I was once shown by a very bright engineer that to achieve a kilowatt output from a wind turbine in my geographic region, with any regularity at all, I needed a rotor disk with a swept area of at least 10 foot radius. Whew. No thanks. I didn't want blades that big spinning at just subsonic speed and possibly breaking loose and becoming projectiles. But do be aware that if you want a more meaningful output, in addition to other optimizations, you MUST have a bigger turbine. If you used say 8" diameter schedule 80 PVC pipe, and made your blades maybe 5 feet long, for a bit over 10 foot diameter swept area, you would have a significant power harvester there. It's all about the swept area. Well, mostly, anyway. Double the radius and you quadruple the area!
Honestly, a car alternator and small turbine are probably only going to give you at MOST about 500 watts of power under ideal conditions. 100 to 150 watts is more typical. And yes, replacing the rotor windings with a toroidal magnet will increase your efficiency slightly, but a magnet big and strong enough to do the job will be expensive. You can supply field current in several ways. The best way is to use the alternator to charge a bank of 12V deep cycle (not car batteries!) flooded lead acid batteries through the original voltage regulator. The stock unit with stock regulator and rectifier is fairly efficient and very simple. It just works. So let the reg sense the battery voltage and it will supply more power when the battery voltage drops, less power when the battery is fully charged. Then the battery is providing the field energy, and accepting the charge output, plus storing energy for when the wind stops. Be sure to install redundant diodes to prevent back feeding the alternator, which can drain a battery very quickly. NEVER disconnect the voltage sense wires while the alternator is turning, our you risk frying the diodes! Other than that, this is a pretty simple and idiot proof project.
I would like to point out one thing, though. The pitch of the rotor blade should vary from blade root to blade tip. At the tips, the blade is turning very fast, in terms of speed through the air. So the vector diagram of true wind vs relative wind, from the blade dip, will indicate a need for a very low pitch, in other words the blade more flat to the wind. However if you use the same low pitch near the root of the blade, where the speed of the blade through the air is much lower due to the shorter distance it must travel in a revolution, then your blade root is in a stall condition. So you want a much higher pitch. In other words, the blade at the root should be closer to edge-on to the wind. You can achieve this blade twist without twisting the PVC material by simply twisting the design as drawn on the pipe. This varies the angle of attack of the blade nicely. You can experiment with different rates of change and different base pitch and get significant increase in efficiency. Also you do not need to taper the tips quite so much. Be sure to fair and smooth both leading and trailing edges of the blades, too.
Don't forget to put a fuse in your charge output cable! I suggest a fuse rated for your alternator rating. Don't take a chance of burning out your alternator or other components. Use BIG cable if you can afford it. For a typical 70 amp alternator and with a run of say 30 feet to the battery bank, I suggest 1AWG or 2AWG stranded copper welding cable. In a low power DC system, it is extremely important to reduce line losses. Yes, the actual accepted wire size for that voltage and current is much smaller. That is not the efficient size, merely the safe size. The welding cable is very flexible and easy to work with, and can be had for a reasonable price per foot.
it is super satisfying watching you build
Great video shows the difficulty in pioneering and engineering things . Im
Sure with gearing or modifications you can make it worthwhile . May is also ask what is the reason to choose an alternative over a motor / dynamo ? Thanks
13:40 the blade seems to move on the opposite direction of the angle of attack. And also I don't see that much wind gushing since the nearby objects are pretty much stationary.
Don't get me wrong, it's a doubt. Will be happy if you cleared it out. Btw love your workshop, wanna build one myself. 👍🏻
That is a vacuum pump in the back of that alternator. It is what Isuzu (and others) use for their hydraulic brake boost system, in their small/ medium cab over trucks as the diesel engine produces no vacuum to assist in braking.
Wow! Great job on the turbine, I love it!!!
It so much fun and knowledge seeing you guys working, keep it up
I need to see how this guy generates wind, with this!
Here you need to design a new generater with maximum number of poles , say 12 or more, could achieve high power output in low RPM.
Wow! Both fabulous engineers. So inspiring. Thank you.
Take a heart gun or torch and heat the blades till flexible. Lower the pitch towards the outside of the blades. It will make less turbulence and spin faster.
Guys Your doing a Great Work..! Extremely Happy to see Such skillfull work. But please wear safety gloves while working...! Safety is First Priority...!
you can use step up voltage circuit with 14v dc regulator , it will charge the battery at any wind speed
I suggest make the mounting pole more rigid as the any swaying movement will effect overall stability and wind direction through blades interrupted thus alowing RPM goodluck 👍
Would a stepper motor used as a generator give more power? I would think whatever you use it will be necessary to gear up the windmill rpm. Very good video.
You have heaps of thrust, enough to use a simple 1:3 gear/pulley ratio to achieve the additional RPM
If you reduce the current to the rotor then this would reduce the drag and maybe increase the rpm. This is how the alternator regulator works to control the voltage.
that's a great thing wind generator thank you for sharing guys you did a great job
Don't most people that use car alt use a gear reduction to spin the alt fast enough to produce power?
Great video for educational purposes but is there a part two to see if you nail down the blade design and got enough RPMs to charge batteries. Saw some solar panels so wondering if this works in conjunction with solar panels as well
you can use gears to get optimal rpm and momentum, just like a large wind turbines
Decrease the number of blades to 3 from 5 you currently use and then you will get required output.
Hope you have a next video for this experiment. Nice job.
Now you can power your toaster! lol
No.
It is obvious that you need 2to1 ratio gear to double the speed of the alternator . You get two gears larder gear fixed to the shaft coming from the blade assembly and smaller gear on the shift of the alternator . You will need a self lubricating bearing and a frame to hold the blade assembly sub frame .offsetting from the alternator
Gear Ratio ... No!
I’m working with alternators to build generators too. A thought I’m playing with is using an alternator as the rotor of a pulse motor.
great work, brothers... keep up the DIY power supply for those of us who don't have an engineering cell in our brain! When you perfect a source, I hope you'll post it for us to replicate. Greg (garden grove, CA)
i would suggest to copy the design of a clip fan and make it in multiple phase 8layer by 4 neodymium magnets, back front and give it a bridge circuit , mine got 2kw an hour on a modest wind youll prob get 3-5 in your place
It would be easier, and even economical, to take advantage of the brushless motor of an electric scooter wheel, of which they are an integral part of the wheel, it would generate three-phase voltage, so you put a regulator-rectifier of the kind used by motorcycles with large displacement, and you would have regulated DC voltage ready to charge a 12 volt battery
Alternators are typically designed to provide the best output at 6000 RPM. You should look at a gear ratio to help increase the speed. Also, the output voltage may be the same as the input voltage, but the output current should be a lot higher.
Good effort. Such type of efforts must be converted in to comm. Model.
. ہیلو گائز اینڈ گاؤز !! آئی آلسو سا یور وڈیو ودآؤٹ ہیئرنگ ایڈ تھینک یو فار آل دس پریشیس انفارمیشن یو شیئرڈ ود اس۔
If you drag water from uphill whit tubes to your house and use them on some pillars that tubes come to your house from above at height you can use m x g x h formula to produce energy with regular water that you use for house and garden , all you need is aerial tubes that bring water from uphill at height then tubes at 90 degrees could bring down water on a water turbine in your house and produce energy near your house whit the water turbine , pillars used need to be very heavy and that is all
@DIY King
Good Job. Use Rare earth magnets, around 16 magnets placed N, S configuration on 8 inch OD steel disc and suitable Air core copper coils, this is otherwise axial generator, which can freely spin at low wind speed without any cogging.
Hey guys great project!
Great try!
Your skills are masterful!
Be proud of what you accomplished!
Can't wait to see 2.0 !
Great video! Maybe time to DIY some sound deadening material in your workspace? haha.
I would suggest getting atleast 3 HP motor. Rewind it to fill max of the slots using required number of turns and maximum thickness of wire gauge possible to increase energy efficiency. Then drill holes or cut grooves in the stator neatly so as to fit neodynum magnets. Or somehow get customized neodynum magnet rotor that can do the job. You can get maximum efficiency by making 3 phase system and then converting the output to DC using 3 phase bridge rectifier and capacitor bank to smoothen the DC output. Use proper gear ratio to maintain the RPM to match with the generator. Since the speed will vary due to wind speed, i would recommend using DC system so that equipments do not malfunction.
Enjoyed that,good luck refining your design. And hello from 🇬🇧👍
just change the motor you are using and it choose the right one for that RPM you are getting
OK buddy you got my respect - I detest what our politicians and global corporates are doing to our economies - via so called renewable energy....... For they are breaking what already works.... However we can counter their madness with vids like this...... And empower oursleves at least to some extent against their corporate madness....................
I think your almost there !
Your in need of a step gear system
, consider bicycle sprockets .
Also , I think you may be asking a lot from your wind mill , at least to power that size alternator .
Consider 15 amp 12 v john deer garden tracktor alt. May be more realistic for load match .it will still charge a deep cycle battery.
Nice video by the way !
50 watts is very far away from being practical.
Alternator is activated by one of the pins on the voltage regulator. You just have to just a wire either from ground or hot to activate. Also that keeps your storage battery from being drained when the alternator is not spinning.
I don't have all the equipment or tools your using. There are much simpler ways of doing this.
Estupendo pero una pregunta, ¿Tiene la capacidad de girar 360 grados o le pusiste algun tope?..... para que no se enrede el cableado????
Very good presentation. Your fast paced video has done exactly as it should. Just enough information to stimulate others into thinking and sharing. Look into old wind driven well pumps to solve the over-speed issues. Thanks for posting.
What type of motor you wanna use? Liam F1 Archimedes blade is dope. Gear ratio of 27:1 with Planetary Gearbox stacked in 3 would be great. How about vertical wind turbine?
Where is your DIY workshop, I wanna come over to see.🤩. Have same interests. Great work
Hello from mexico 🇲🇽 Thanks for sharing this video guys !!👍🏼👍🏼
Good effort , maybe using a small gear for increasing rpm might help as is used in bicycles. My wild guess
Saludos desde Monterrey muy bien el vídeo estoy empezando a ver éste tipo de vídeos y trataré de entender poco a poco los datos técnico 🙏👌👍🤠
Good idea, I'd suggest putting a Pulley system and adjusting the diameter ratios accordingly. And also instead of using pipes , you can do a diy of fiberglass and mould it yourself . This also reduces the weight and it's stronger than PVC pipes
get a scrapped treadmill and use the 1kw+ 180v motor on a vertical or horizontal turbine.
i ues a leg of leg of one of the phase of the sate in rectifier & Now dc in to a copastor & back to the the burses & from the negative brush to the body of the alternator as the wind pick's up the alternator grows in speed & Bild charge in the run copastor delivers a steady voltage to the rotter as the sped increase's the prudish charging amps, An option is is to clang the copastor for vibrating pint regulated this works well & that will provide a regulate dc current to the rooter only . if we are to charge at a dist. To a bank of batteries , we should modify the stator in to a 3 phase to a Y stat that can travel the distance to the battery bank & the rectify at battery bank .
Bro you guys are awesome, but you need to wear mask when working where it should be used.
It seems like a lot of chicken coops are installed on roof tops.
Damn! Those welds almost made me blind! 😎 haha😅
Excellent work 👏🏼
As soon as I see an Asian guy explaining something I need to understand I click.